Post on 12-Jan-2016
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Fibres Fabrics
How do we make fabrics?
Some fibres can be used directly to make fabrics (eg felting)
Most fibres are twisted or spun into yarn before the construction of fabrics
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking
Types of YarnsYarn type Definition Yarn
CharacteristicsEnd-use Applications
Staple spun yarn
Made from staple fibres – cotton or wool – or manufactured fibres cut into small lengths
•Uneven, weak yarn with poor lustre and durability•Good elasticity, resiliency and absorbency
Apparel and furnishings
Monofilament Yarn
Made from one filament of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester, nylon)
•Fine and strong yarn with good lustre and durability•Inelastic, poor resiliency and absorbency
Hosiery and invisible sewing thread
Multifilament Yarn
Made from two or more filaments of a manufactured fibre (rayon, polyester, nylon)
•Even, strong yarn with good lustre and durability•Medium elasticity and resiliency, slightly absorbent
Evening wear and lingerie
Yarn Twist
- The twisting involved is the most important factor in determining the properties of the yarn
- Without twist, the yarn would have no strength
- Can be twisted in clockwise direction (S-twist) or anticlockwise (Z-twist) direction
- Light is reflected in opposite ways and can be used alternately to create lustrous stripes in the fabric
Single Yarn Produced during the first stage of the spinning process
Ply Yarn Formed by twisting two or more single yarns 8 twisted yarns = 8 ply Stronger and thicker than single yarn
Cord Yarn Formed by twisting ply yarns together Very strong
Blended Yarn When two or more different fibre yarns are twisted
together
Let’s have a Yarn!!!!
The manufacturing process:
Once the yarn has been spun or twisted, there are a number of ways to turn it into cloth or fabric. Some examples are:
Weaving Knitting Knotting Felting bonding
Weaving The interlacing of two sets of yarns at right angles
to each other
Lengthwise Grain – WARP
Crosswise Grain - WEFT
Types of WeavesPlain – more interlacing and increased stability and durability
Twill – identified by the diagonal lines in the weave. Yarns are usually spaced closed together creating a strong and most durable fabric (eg. denim, drill)
Satin – yarns float over a number of yarns from the opposite direction. Encourages lustre in the fabric due to the longer interlacings.
Pile – achieved with the use of extra Warp or Weft yarns within the ‘ground’ weave to give thickness and texture. This pile can be left as is or cut depending on the desired result. Increases absorbent abilities.
Refer to page 302 of your textbook for further information.
Knitting
The process of making fabrics by forming rows of interlinked loops of yarn, with each hoop dependent upon another to prevent it from coming undone.
Warp knitting – interlooping along the length of the fabric
- usually in an industrial setting/scale - more stable, less absorbent, less
distortion of fabric
Weft knitting – interlooping across the width of the fabric - can be in an industrial or domestic
setting/scale - less stable, distorts more easily, more
absorbent
Fabric Characteristics
Fabrics can be described by their characteristics or special features. These characteristics should be considered whenever:
- we use fabrics to make textile items for the home
- we want to wear fabrics- we need to wash or clean fabrics
NOTE: Especially when choosing the fabric for your assessment.......
The special characteristics of one particularfibre or fabric will make it more suitable for some jobs than others.
Fabric
Texture Lustre
Strength
Heat Conduction
Elasticity
Moisture Absorbenc
y
Crease Resistanc
e
Flammability
Colour Fastness
Texture
The way a fabric feels Thick or thin Harsh or soft Rough or smooth Stiff or flexible Fine or coarse
Strength
How strong a fabric is Weak (wool) Weak when wet (rayon) Strong (cotton) Stronger when wet (cotton) Very strong (nylon, polyester)
Lustre
How shiny a fabric is Dull/matt (wool) Shiny (poplin) Very shiny (satin)
Moisture Absorbency
How well the fabric will absorb water None (waterproofed) Low (nylon) Holds a lot but absorbs slowly (wool) Very high (cotton, linen)
Elasticity
How well a fibre or fabric will stretch and return to its original shape
Low stretch (twill weave) Will stretch, but won’t go back Stretches and goes back in original
length (lycra)
Resilience is the ability to return to the original form.
Heat Conduction
How a fabric conducts heat Will not conduct heat = warmer to wear
(wool in garments traps heat) Will conduct heat away = cooler to wear
(cotton garments cooler in summer)
Crease Resistance
How well a fabric recovers from creases after washing
Poor (pure cotton, rayon) Average (wool creases fall out) Good recovery (polyester, drip-dry
cottons)
Flammability
How easily a fabric burns Very easily (cotton, rayon, open weaves,
hairy fabrics) Low (polyester, nylon melt) Average (wool) Poor (flame proofed fabrics, asbestos)
Colour Fastness
How well the fabric keeps its colour Fades in the sun (cotton) Fades in sea water and sun (dyes in
lycra) Discolours in the sun (nylon) Some dyes ‘run’ in hot water or with
perspiration