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PREFACE
I am pleased to present the project report Gold Jewellerybefore my
respected readers. It is a humble attempt from my part to judge
consumer behavior for the effectiveness of existing and self designed ad-
copy of Spices.
This study deals with a number of topics, which will help the reader
understand and learn how consumers make consumption decisions
regarding Spices.
Language of the report is simple and lucid. Attempts have been made to
arrange the subject matter in a systematic and well-knit style. Efforts
have also been made to deal with all topics precisely and gently.
I express thanks to all those prolific teachers and experts of management
whose theories and ideas have been incorporated in this project report.
Despite of this it is very difficult to be perfect to the core and mistakes do
creep in for which I extend my apology and carve the hospitality of the
readers to point them out. Their criticism and suggestions for the
improvement in future are welcomed.
VANDNA PATHAK
B.COM VTH SEM
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
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Preparing a project of this nature is an arduous
task and I was fortunate enough to get support
from a large number of persons. Iwish to express
my deep sense of gratitude to all those who
generously helped in successful completion of this
report by sharing their invaluable time and
knowledge.
It is my proud and previledge to express my deep
regards to Respected Mrs. Anjali Namdeo Thakur
FeranSingh Art and Commerce Collage Shahpur
for allowing me to undertake this project.
I feel extremely exhilarated to have completed
this project under the able and inspiring guidance
of Mrs. Anjali Namdeo He rendered me all possible
help and guidence while reviewing the manuscript
in finalising the report.
I also extend my deep regards to my teachers,
family members, friends and all those whose
encouragement has infused courage in me tocomplete the work successfully.
VANDANA PATHAK
B.COM VTH SEM.
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CERTIFICATE
Date:
The project report titled GOLD JEWELLARY has been prepared
by Miss. VANDANA PATHAK, IInd Batch, under the guidance and
supervision of MRS. ANJALI NAMDEO, for the partial fulfillment of the
degree of B.COM VTH SEM.
Signature of the Signature of Signature of
Supervisor: Head of the the examiner
Department:
-
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DECLARATION BY THE
CANDIDATE
Date:
I declare that the project report titled GOLD JEWELLARY
is my own work conducted under the supervision of MRS.
ANJALI NAMDEO Department Of COMMERCE, To the best of
my knowledge the report does not contain any work,
which has been submitted for the award of any degree,
anywhere.
-
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Preface
Acknowledgement
Certificate
Declaration by the Candidate
1. Introduction
2. Line of Objectives
3. Research methodology
4. Data analysis and interpretation
5. Self designed advertisement
Product profile
Script for advertisement
Advertisement of existing brand
6. Findings
7. Conclusion
8. Suggestions
9. Limitations
Bibliography
Appendix
Format of Questionnaire
INTRODUCTION
The name diamondis derived from the ancient Greek (admas),
"proper", "unalterable", "unbreakable", "untamed", from- (a-), "un-"
+ (dam), "I overpower", "I tame". Diamonds are thought to have been
first recognized and mined in India, where significant alluvial deposits of the stone
could be found many centuries ago along the
rivers Penner,Krishna and Godavari. Diamonds have been known in India for at
least 3,000 years but most likely 6,000 years.
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E1%BC%80-http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E1%BC%80-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alluvial_deposithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penner_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krishna_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godavari_Riverhttp://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E1%BC%80-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alluvial_deposithttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penner_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krishna_Riverhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godavari_River7/31/2019 4 Diamond Jewellary
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Diamonds have been treasured as gemstones since their use as religious
icons in ancient India. Their usage in engraving tools also dates to early human
history. The popularity of diamonds has risen since the 19th century because of
increased supply, improved cutting and polishing techniques, growth in the world
economy, and innovative and successful advertising campaigns.[7]
In 1772,Antoine Lavoisierused a lens to concentrate the rays of the sun
on a diamond in an atmosphere ofoxygen, and showed that the only product of
the combustion was carbon dioxide, proving that diamond is composed of carbon.
Later in 1797, Smithson Tennant repeated and expanded that experiment. By
demonstrating that burning diamond and graphite releases the same amount of
gas he established the chemical equivalence of these substances.
The most familiar use of diamonds today is as gemstones used
foradornment, a use which dates back into antiquity. The dispersion of white light
into spectral colors is the primary gemological characteristic of gem diamonds. In
the 20th century, experts in gemology have developed methods of grading
diamonds and other gemstones based on the characteristics most important to
their value as a gem. Four characteristics, known informally as the four Cs, are
now commonly used as the basic descriptors of diamonds: these
are carat,cut, color, and clarity.
[9]
A large, flawless diamond is known asa paragon.
TANISHQ
Tanishq
Type Subsidiary of Titan
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IndustriesLtd
Industry Jewellers
Founded 1995
Headquarters Hosur, Tamil Nadu
Website Tanishq official website
Tanishq (Hindi: ) is a prominentjewellery brand ofIndia. It
pioneered the concept of branded jewellery and ornaments in India. It is a
division ofTitan Industries Limited, a company promoted by the Tata Group,
one of India's largest conglomerates. The name Tanishq contains theword "Nishk" (meaning gold coin or necklace in Sanskrit), although the k
has been modified into a q.[1]
"Tan" in Sanskrit/Urdu means body and "Ishq" in Urdu means love. Hence
"Tanishq" which is becoming popular as an Indian baby name means
"embodiment of love". "Tan" in Sanskrit also means to extend or to spread.
Hence "to extend love" or "to spread love" are other meanings attributed to
the name Tanishq.
Overview
Tanishq has an exquisite range ofgold, gems and diamonds jewellery. It is
the largest and fastest growing jewellery brand in India.[citation needed] Tanishq
started in 1995 and challenged the established family jeweller system
prevalent in India.
Tanishq has set up production and sourcing bases with thorough research of
the jewellery crafts of India. The Tanishq factory located at Hosur, Tamil
Nadu (India) spreads over 135,000 sq ft (12,500 m2) and complies with all
labor and environmental standards.
Tanishq spread awareness to the public about alleged impurity in Gold
jewellery across India. Tanishq introduced innovations like Karatmeter, the
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only non-destructive means to check the purity of gold and machine made
jewellery.
-
Nakshatra diamond Jewellery
Nakshatra Jewellery
Industry Gems & Jewellery
Founded 2000
Headquarters Available at multiple retail
outlets across the country.
Products All types of diamond
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jewellery including rings,
necklace sets, earrings,
pendants, bangles, bracelets
etc.
The jewellery is crafted
around an unique set of
diamond star flowers that
signify constellations. Each
design is a stylized
interpretation of the kodajodi,
which is traditionally believed
to shower the wearer with
blessings and divine luck.
Parent Gitanjali Group
Website Nakshatra Diamonds
Nakshatra Diamond Jewellery is one of the most respected and most
preferred jewellery brands in India. Originally launched in 2000 by the
Diamond Trading Company (DTC), with the dazzling Aishwarya Rai as its
brand ambassador, it was acquired by Gitanjali Group in 2008. Subsequently
the then reigning queen of Bolllywood, Katrina Kaif was chosen as the face
of the brand. Today, Nakshatra is one of Indias largest and most well known
jewellery brands. The jewellery is crafted around an unique set of diamond
star flowers that signify constellations. Each design is a stylized interpretation
of the kodajodi, which is traditionally believed to shower the wearer with
blessings and divine luck.
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ADVERTISEMENT CONCEPT
Advertising is multidimensional. It is a form of mass
communication, a powerful marketing tool, a component of
economic system, a means of financing the mass media, a social
institution, an art form, an instrument of business management, a
field of employment and a profession. Advertisement has both
forward & backward linkages in the process of satisfaction across
the entire spectrum of needs. The explicit function of
advertisement is to make the potential audience aware of the
existence of the product, service or idea which would help them
fulfill their felt needs and spell out the differential benefits in a
competitive situation. Advertising is not a panacea that can
restore a poor product or rejuvenate a declining market. It only
helps in selling through the art and business of persuasive
communication.
WHY ADVERTISEMENT IS NEEDED?
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Advertising is a communication channel which enables
consumers in making choice from the best available
alternative in the market, thus satisfying the basic aim of
advertisement.
Advertisement is mass audience communication
programme.
Advertisement makes it possible for the manufacture to
introduce new ideas & new products.
Advertisement makes product adoption process smooth.
Advertisement expands markets, builds up volume, gives amarket share and profitability and reduces prices.
IMPORTANCE OF ADVERTISEMENT PLANNING
Some basic elements of advertisement planning are:
Advertisement Budget
Media Planning
Creative Strategy
Advertisement Effective
ADVERTISEMENT EVALUATION
Pre-testing & Post-testing method
The testing can be related to the ad copy in terms of its message,idea, theme, slogan & contents or also can be related to products
in which impact of message on product awareness or buying
intention is measures.
Measures can be broadly classified into two categories:
Laboratory measures
Real- world measures
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The following are the laboratory measures of pre-testing
which are ads related:
1. Consumer jury
2. Portfolio tests
3. Readability tests
4. Physiological measures
5. Eye-camera
6. Tachistocope
7. GSR/PDR
The following are the laboratory measures of pre-testing
which are products related:
1. Theatre tests
2. Trailer tests
3. Laboratory stores
The following are the real-world measures of pre-testingwhich are ads related :
1. Dummy advertising vehicles2. Inquiry tests3. On the air tests
The following are the real-world measures of post-testing
which are ads related :
1. Recognition tests
2. Recall tests3. Association measures4. Combination measures
The following are the real-world measures of pre-testing
as well as post-testing which are products related :
1. Pre-post tests
2. Sales tests
3. Mini-market tests
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ADVERTISEMENT STRATEGY
Strategy is a link between advertisement objectives &
advertisement plan. Strategy also makes it easier to implement
the plans & goals. There are seven possible strategies from which
ideas have been taken. These are pioneering a product,
Emphasize a benefit, Put across the USP of a brand, Build a brand
image, Offer a range of products, Future users of the products,
Discover new uses for an existing product.
In my advertisement I have tried to use the strategies of
emphasizing a benefit i.e. giving the product at lower price than
others with additional new flavors.
Also the following market considerations are taken into account as
they affect the strategy formulation:
Positioning of the product: The Zest Spices are positioned at
middle-income group of customers and even the rural customers.Promotion mix: As a marketer we are interested in the right mix
or combination of Advertising, Publicity, Personal selling
(especially in villages) & Sales promotion.
Advertisement media: The most preferred advertisement
media for Zest Spices is Television; also the print media
(newspapers & magazines) is used in some areas.
Advertisement budget: The total amount to be spent on the
advertisement of Zest Spices will be decided on the basis of
Advertisement Objective & Task Method. This is so chosen
because the competition is so much that you cannot think of profit
first and then generate revenue for advertisement, but if the
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product is communicated very well than it automatically sell and
generate revenue too.
Vital decision about the size of space (for print media) or length of
time (for broadcast media) for the ads have yet to be made, which
will be based on the rational price, proper space, and which gives
advantage of time utility.
Objectives of research
1. To gain insight into the customer preferences regarding
spices.
2. To search the motives that stimulates consumers to
purchase spices.
3. To find out the awareness level of customers regarding
advertisement.
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4. To compare two different brand advertisements of the
similar media.
5. To find which is the most popular brand advertisement.
6. To know about effective advertising media that persuades
the customers most.
7. To design advertisement copy for spices.
8. To pre-test and post-test the effectiveness of existing and
designed advertisement copy.
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
WHAT IS RESEARCH METHODOLOGY?
It is the science that tells the method of doing research .It mainly
consists of following steps;
Developing research design
Determining the data collection method
Developing sampling plan
Conducting field work
Research in common parlance refers to a search for
knowledge. One can also define research as a scientific and
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systematic search for pertinent information on a specific
topic.
The word research has been derived from French word
Researcher means to search.
DEFINITION OF RESEARCH METHODOLOGY:
Research may be defined as "a careful investigation or enquiry
specially through search for new facts in any branch of knowledge
"in a technical sense research comprise defining &redefining
problems, formulating hypothesis or suggested solutions;
collecting ,organizing &evaluating data; making deductions &
reaching conclusion & at last carefully testing the conclusion to
determine weather they fit the formulating hypothesis.
RESEARCH DESIGN:
Research Design is the conceptual structure within which
research is conducted. It constitutes the blueprint for
collection, measurement and analysis of data. The designused for carrying out this research is Descriptive.
RESEARCH DESIGN USED IN THE SURVEY:
Considering the objectives of the study and also the importance of
the decision it was decided to undertake an exploratory survey.
DATA COLLECTION:
Types of data:
1. Primary data- primary data are those which are fresh and
collected for the first time and thus happen to be original
characters.
2. Secondary data - It is the data that is already been collected by
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someone else.
In this survey I used both primary and secondary data. All
information collected through questionnaire.
DATA SOURCE:
The sources of collection of secondary data are:
Questionnaire
Books
Websites
Magazine
BrochureSAMPLING PLAN:
It is very difficult to collect information from every memberof a population .As time and costs are the major limitation
that the researcher faces.
A sample of 30 was taken the sample size of 30 individuals
were selected on the basis of convenient sampling
technique. The individuals were selected in the random
manner to form sample and data were collected from them
for the research study.
ANALYSIS AND INTERPRETATION:
Data collection through questionnaire and personnel interview
resulted in availability of the desired information but these were
useless until there were analyzed. Various steps required for this
purpose were editing, coding and tabulating. Tabulating refers to
bringing together similar data and compiling them in an accurate
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20%
30%
Yes
No.
and meaningful manner. The data collected by questionnaire was
analyzed, interpreted with the help of table, bar chart and pie
chart.
DATA ANALYSIS & INTERPRETATION
Q.1 Do you have diamond Jewellery
Answer Percentage
Yes 20%
No. 30%
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15%
10%5%
20% Tanisha
DDamas
Asmi
Nakshatra
Q.2 Which company Diamond Jewellary do you use
Answer Percentage
Tanisha 15%
DDamas 10%
Asmi 5%
Nakshatra 20%
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45%
5%
Yes
No.
Q.3 Do you like the advertisement designed by me
Answer Percentage
Yes 45%
No. 5%
Q.4 Which media according to you is best for product
advertisment ?
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5%
10%
30%
5%
Audio
Vedio
Audio Video
Answer Percentage
Audio 5%
Vedio 10%
Audio Video 30%
Print 5%
Q.5 Do you think promotional events are necessary for a
product promotion
Answer Percentage
Yes 30%
No. 20%
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Q.6 Do you like the script of advertisement designed by me
Answer Percentage
Yes 35%
No. 15%
30%
20%
Yes
No.
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35%
15%
Yes
No.
32%
18%Yes
No.
Q.7 Do you likethe slogan or punchline of my product
company
Answer Percentage
Yes 32%
No. 18%
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CONCLUSIONS
I had some limited success in teaching jewelry making classes. The biggest
problem was getting the word out. The place I found to teach the classes did
not offer any help in promoting them. However, when I did get enough
students to take a class, I found it was not only enjoyable for the students
and myself, but by bringing extra kits, beads, and findings to class, Im also
was able to make a nice little profit.
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If had I spent more time promoting myself, then I believe I would have been
even more successful. I taught at a local community center, but you could
also teach for groups such as home schoolers, scout groups, or 4-H clubs.
Deciding on the where, what, how, and who will depend on your schedule,
expertise, and taste. You may have to try a few methods before you find a
teaching process that works best for you, but hopefully, you now have a few
basic ideas to help you create a jewelry class curriculum.
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SUGGESTIONS
There are four questions that you can use as a great starting
point when choosing your diamond engagement ring.
If you answer each of these four questions, you will take a big
step forward towards finding the right diamond engagement ring
for you.
Do you prefer round (brilliant cut), square (princess cut),
rectangular (emerald cut) , marquise or heart shaped
diamonds in diamond engagement rings? Do you prefer prong or bezel set diamond engagement
rings?
Would you prefer one diamond, one main diamond with
smaller diamonds or multiple diamonds of similar
proportions in diamond engagement rings?
Do you prefer yellow gold, white gold or platinum diamond
engagement rings?
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
C. Even-Zohar (2007). From Mine to Mistress: Corporate Strategies
and Government Policies in the International Diamond Industry(2nd ed.).
Mining Journal Press.
G. Davies (1994). Properties and growth of diamond.
INSPEC. ISBN 0-85296-875-2.
M. O'Donoghue, M (2006). Gems. Elsevier. ISBN0-7506-5856-8.
M. O'Donoghue and L. Joyner (2003). Identification of gemstones.
Great Britain: Butterworth-Heinemann. ISBN0-7506-5512-7.
A. Feldman and L.H. Robins (1991).Applications of Diamond Films
and Related Materials. Elsevier.
J.E. Field (1979). The Properties of Diamond. London: Academic
Press. ISBN0-12-255350-0.
http://www.mine2mistress.com/http://www.mine2mistress.com/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-85296-875-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7506-5856-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7506-5512-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-12-255350-0http://www.mine2mistress.com/http://www.mine2mistress.com/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-85296-875-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7506-5856-8http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-7506-5512-7http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Standard_Book_Numberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:BookSources/0-12-255350-07/31/2019 4 Diamond Jewellary
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QUESTIONNAIRE
Name of Purchaser : _____________________________
Respondent Name : _____________________________
Age : _____________________________
Q.1 Do you have diamond Jewellery?(a) Yes (b) No
Q.2 Which company Diamond Jewellery do you use ?
(a) Tanisha (b) DDamas (c) Asmi (d) NakshatraQ.3 do you like the advertisement designed by me
(a) Yes (b) No
Q.4 Which Media according to you is best for product advertisement?(a) Audio (b) Video (c) Audio video (d) Print
Q.5 do you think promotional events are necessary for a product promotion?
(a) Yes (b) NoQ.6 do you like the script of advertisement designed by me ?
(a) Yes (b) No
Q.7 do you like the slogan or punchline of my product company?
(a) Yes (b) No.Q.8 Which feature do you think every diamond Jewellery should have ?
(a) (b)
(c) (d)Q.9 Which company according to your is the best ?
Ans __________________________________________________________________________
Q.10 Any Suggestion : _____________________________________________
____________________________________________________________Thank you very much for your kind cooperation.
Place :Date Signature of Respondent
INTRODUTION TO THE PRODUCT
In mineralogy, diamond (from the ancient Greek admas
"unbreakable") is anallotrope of carbon, where the carbon atoms are arranged in
a variation of the face-centered cubic crystal structure called a diamond lattice.
Diamond is less stable than graphite, but the conversion rate from diamond to
graphite is negligible at ambient conditions. Diamond is renowned as a material
with superlative physical qualities, most of which originate from the
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strong covalent bonding between its atoms. In particular, diamond has the
highest hardnessand thermal conductivity of any bulk material. Those properties
determine the major industrial application of diamond in cutting and polishing
tools.
Diamond has remarkable optical characteristics. Because of its extremely rigidlattice, it can be contaminated by very few types of impurities, such
as boron and nitrogen. Combined with wide transparency, this results in the clear,
colorless appearance of most natural diamonds. Small amounts of defects or
impurities (about one per million of lattice atoms) color diamond blue (boron),
yellow (nitrogen), brown (lattice defects), green (radiation exposure), purple, pink,
orange or red. Diamond also has relatively high optical dispersion (ability to
disperse light of different colors), which results in its characteristic luster. Excellent
optical and mechanical properties, combined with efficient marketing, make
diamond the most populargemstone.
Most natural diamonds are formed at high-pressure high-temperature conditions
existing at depths of 140 to 190 kilometers (87 to 120 mi) in the Earth mantle.
Carbon-containing minerals provide the carbon source, and the growth occurs
over periods from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years (25% to 75% of the age of the
Earth). Diamonds are brought close to the Earth surface through deep volcanic
eruptions by a magma, which cools into igneous rocks known
as kimberlitesand lamproites. Diamonds can also be produced synthetically in
a high-pressure high-temperature process which approximately simulates theconditions in the Earth mantle. An alternative, and completely different growth
technique is chemical vapor deposition (CVD). Several non-diamond materials,
which include cubic zirconia and silicon carbide and are often called diamond
simulants, resemble diamond in appearance and many properties.
Specialgemological techniques have been developed to distinguish natural
and synthetic diamondsand diamond simulants.
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Script
Scene 1 There is Husband and wife and they have their anniversary can that
day
Scene 2 Husband shows that he didnt remember their anniversary but the
known every thing and decided that he will organize a surprise party
for her wife named Devika.
Scene 3 Wife was very sad and upset that his husband dont remeber their
anniversary.
Scene 4 Finally he invited her on the terrace of their house and gifted her
Diva DiamondJewellary SetWe She was very happy and hugged him and saidDD Make
Relations farevess
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DIVA DIAMOND JEWELERY
MAKE RELATIONFOREVER
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Appendix
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The QueenFarida of Egyptred coral parure by Ascione manufacture, 1938,
Neaples,Coral Jewellery Museum Jewelleryorjewelry[1] is a form of
personaladornment- such asbrooches,rings,necklaces,earrings, andbracelets.
With some exception such as medical alert bracelets or military dog tags,
jewellery normally differs from other items of personal adornment in that it has no
other purpose than to look appealing, but humans have been producing and
wearing it for a long time - with 100,000-year-old beads made
from Nassarius shells thought to be the oldest known jewellery.
Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials, but gemstones,precious
metals, beads and shells have been widely used. Depending on the culture and
times jewellery may be appreciated as a status symbol, for its material properties,
its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly
every body part, from hairpins to toe rings.
The wordjewelleryitself is derived from the wordjewel, which
was anglicized from the Old French"jouel",[3] and beyond that, to the Latin word
"jocale", meaning plaything.
Form and function
Kenyanman wearing tribal beads Jewellery has been used for a number of reasons:
Currency, wealth display and storage,
Functional use (such as clasps, pins and buckles)
Symbolism (to show membership or status)
Protection (in the form ofamulets and magical wards),[4]
Artistic display
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Most cultures have at some point had a practice of keeping large amounts of
wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures move
wedding dowries in the form of jewellery or create jewellery as a means to store or
display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good;
an example being the use ofslave beads.[citation needed]
Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles, originated as purely
functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement
diminished.[5]
Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of
the Christian crucifix orJewishStar of David, or of status, as in the case ofchains
of office, or the Western practice ofmarried people wearing a wedding ring.
Wearing ofamulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is
common in somecultures; these may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh),stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), orglyphs (such as
stylised versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art).[6]
Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from the very
beginning, the other roles described above tended to take primacy. [citation needed] It
was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such masters as Peter Carl
Faberg and Ren Lalique, that art began to take primacy over function and
wealth.[citation needed] This trend has continued into modern times, expanded upon by
artists such as Robert Lee Morris, Ed Levin, andAlberto Repossi.
Materials and methods
Anticlastic raised sterling bracelet.
In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used,
and they are typically set into precious metals.Alloys of nearly every metal known
have been encountered in jewellery. Bronze, for example, was common in Roman
times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes gold, white
gold, platinum, palladium, titanium, orsilver. Most American and European gold
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jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats,
indicated by a number followed by the letterK. American gold jewellery must be of
at least 10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K (37.5%
pure gold) and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels
are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure
gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and Europe. These
high purity alloys, however, are widely used acrossAsia, the Middle
East andAfrica.[citation needed] Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950
(95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine
silver. In costume jewellery, stainless steel findings are sometimes used.
Bead embroidery design.
Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass
orenamel;wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal
substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay;polymer clay; and even plastics.
Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has moreof a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will cause an
EnglishAssay office (the building which gives English jewellery its stamp of
approval, theHallmark) to destroy the piece.[citation needed]
Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones,
metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly
encompasses necklaces, bracelets,earrings, belts and rings. Beads may be large
or small; the smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads, these are the
beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads
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is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to
create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a
popular type of handwork during the Victorian era, is enjoying a renaissance in
modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in
manyAfrican cultures.
Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian
glassmastersdeveloped crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with
threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-glass (lattimo),
and imitation gemstones made of glassAs early as the 13th century, Murano
glass and Murano beads were popular]
Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods
include forging, casting, soldering orwelding, cutting, carving and "cold-joining"
(using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts).
[7]
Diamonds
Diamonds.
Diamonds were first mined in India.[8] Pliny may have mentioned them, although
there is some debate as to the exact nature of the stone he referred to
asAdamas;[9] In 2005,Australia,Botswana, Russia and Canada ranked among the
primary sources of gemstone diamond production.[10][11]
The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the largest gem-
quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g).
Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the marriage
ofMaximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.[12]
Other gemstones
Main article: Gemstone
Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:
Amber
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Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has
hardened over time. The stone must be at least one million years old to be
classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.
Amethyst
Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It istreasured for its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.
Spanish emerald and gold pendant at Victoria and Albert Museum.
Emerald
Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and
sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish green colour. They have
been treasured throughout history, and some historians report that the Egyptians
mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.
Jade
Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green but can come in a
number of other colours, as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history,
and tradition, and is sometimes referred to as the stone of heaven.
Jasper
Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of colours.
Often, jasper will feature unique and interesting patterns within the coloured
stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper known for the colours (often beiges and
browns) and swirls in the stones pattern.Quartz
Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes.
Among the well-known types of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink
colour), and smoky quartz (which comes in a variety of shades of translucent
brown). A number of other gemstones, such asAmethyst and Citrine, are also
part of the quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of quartz containing
needle-like inclusions.
Ruby
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Rubies are known for their intense red colour and are among the most highly
valued precious gemstones. Rubies have been treasured for millennia.
In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ratnaraj, meaning king of precious stones.
Sapphire
The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for itsmedium to deep blue colour and strong saturation. Fancy sapphires of various
colours are also available. In the United States, blue sapphire tends to be the
most popular and most affordable of the three major precious gemstones
(emerald, ruby, and sapphire).
Turquoise
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the worlds largest turquoise
producing region is the southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its
attractive colour, most often an intense medium blue or a greenish blue, and its
ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great variety of jewellery styles. It is
perhaps most closely associated with southwest and Native American jewellery,
but it is also used in many sleek, modern styles. Some turquoise contains a matrix
of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting contrast to the gemstones
bright blue colour.
Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic,
meaning that they are produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic,
meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals. [13]
Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of
extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can
serve in place of natural gems, such as cubic zirconia, which can be used in place
of diamond.
Metal finishes
An example of gold plated jewellery
Forplatinum, gold, and silverjewellery, there are many techniques to create
finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte, brushed, and hammered.
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High-polished jewellery is by far the most common and gives the metal a highly
reflective, shiny look. Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the
jewellery and is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as diamonds.
Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look and are created by brushing a
material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving "brush strokes."
Hammered finishes are typically created by using a soft, rounded hammer and
hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy texture.
Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired
colour. Sterling silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver
(a process known as flashing) or may be plated with rhodium or gold. Base metal
costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more
attractive finish.
Impact on society
Jewellery has been used to denote status. In ancient Rome, for instance, only
certain ranks could wear rings;[16] Later, sumptuary lawsdictated who could wear
what type of jewellery, again based on rank. Cultural dictates have also played a
significant role. For example, the wearing of earrings by Western men was
considered effeminate in the 19th century and early 20th century. More recently,
the display of body jewellery, such as piercings, has become a mark of
acceptance or seen as a badge of courage within some groups but is completely
rejected in others. Likewise, hip hop culture has popularised the slang term bling-bling, which refers to ostentatious display of jewellery by men or women.
Conversely, the jewellery industry in the early 20th century launched a campaign
to popularise wedding rings for men, which caught on, as well as engagement
rings for men, which did not, going so far as to create a false history and claim
that the practice had medieval roots. By the mid 1940s, 85% of weddings in the
U.S. featured a double-ring ceremony, up from 15% in the 1920s. [17] Religion has
also played a role: Islam, for instance, considers the wearing of gold by men as a
social taboo,[18]
and many religions have edicts against excessive display.[19]
InChristianity, the New Testament gives injunctions against the wearing of gold, in
the writings of the apostles Paul and Peter. In Revelation 17, "the great whore" or
false religious system, is depicted as being "decked with gold and precious stones
and pearls, having a golden cup in her hand." (Rev. 17:4)
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History
The history of jewellery is a long one, with many different uses among different
cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has provided various insights
into how ancient cultures worked.
Early history
The first signs of jewellery came from the people in Africa. Perforated beads made
from snail shells have been found dating to 75,000 years ago at Blombos Cave. In
Kenya, at Enkapune Ya Muto, beads made from perforated ostrich egg shells
have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago.
Outside of Africa, the Cro-Magnons had crude necklaces and bracelets of bone,
teeth, berries, and stone hung on pieces of string or animalsinew, or pieces of
carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shellormother-of-pearl pieces. In southernRussia, carved bracelets made
ofmammothtusk have been found. The Venus of Hohle Fels features a
perforation at the top, showing that it was intended to be worn as a pendant.
Around 7,000 years ago, the first sign ofcopperjewellery was seen.[5]
Egypt
An 18th dynasty pharaonic era princess' crown
The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was around
3,000-5,000 years ago.[20] The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and
workability ofgold over other metals.Predynastic Egypt had Jewellery in Egypt
soon began to symbolise power and religious power in the community. Although it
was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with
jewellery commonly placed among grave goods.
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In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass, along with
precious gems. The colour of the jewellery had significance. Green, for example,
symbolised fertility. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from
beyond the countrys borders, many other materials for jewellery were found in or
near Egypt. Egyptian jewellery was predominantly made in large workshops.
Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also,
ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewellery suggest that trade between the
Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and
silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.[20]
Europe and the Middle East
Mesopotamia
By approximately 4,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant
craft in the cities ofSumerandAkkad. The most significant archaeological
evidence comes from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, where hundreds of burials dating
29002300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that ofPuabi contained a multitude
of artefacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns
embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed
pins. InAssyria, men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery,
including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder
seals.[21]
Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf andwas set with large numbers of brightly-coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis,
carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, and
bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning
statues and idols. They employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking
techniques, such ascloisonn, engraving, fine granulation, and filigree.[22]
Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to the trade and
manufacture of jewellery have also been unearthed throughout Mesopotamian
archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives thecomposition of various items of jewellery:
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 34 flat speckled
chalcedony bead, [and] 35 gold fluted beads, in groups of five.
1 necklace of flat speckled chalcedony beads including: 39 flat speckled
chalcedony beads, [with] 41 fluted beads in a group that make up the hanging
device.
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1 necklace with rounded lapis lazuli beads including: 28 rounded lapis lazuli
beads, [and] 29 fluted beads for its clasp.[23]
Greece
Gold earring from Mycenae, 16th century BC.
The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1600 BC, although beads
shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. By 300 BC,
the Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and using amethysts, pearl,
and emeralds. Also, the first signs ofcameos appeared, with the Greeks creating
them from IndianSardonyx, a striped brown pink and cream agate stone. Greek
jewellery was often simpler than in other cultures, with simple designs and
workmanship. However, as time progressed, the designs grew in complexity and
different materials were soon used.
Pendant with naked woman, made fromelectrum, Rhodes, around 630-620 BC.
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Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances
or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly
worn by women to show their wealth, social status, and beauty. The jewellery was
often supposed to give the wearer protection from the Evil Eye or endowed the
owner with supernatural powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older
pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods. The largest
production of jewellery in these times came from Northern Greece and Macedon.
However, although much of the jewellery in Greece was made
ofgold and silverwith ivory andgemstones, bronze and clay copies were made
also.
They worked two styles of pieces: cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet
metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered. It was made by
casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. The two halves were then joined
together, and wax, followed by molten metal, was placed in the centre. Thistechnique had been practised since the late Bronze Age. The more common form
of jewellery was the hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered
to thickness and then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be
filled with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different techniques,
such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to create motifs on the
jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or glass poured into special
cavities on the surface. The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins,
such as Asia, whenAlexander the Great conquered part of it. In earlier designs,
other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to
Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek
designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that
indigenous design did not thrive. Numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on
silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found nearOlbia, with
only one example ever found anywhere else. [24]
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Rome
RomanAmethystintaglio engraved gem, c. 212 AD; later regarded as of St.
Peter.
Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times, especially among
the barbarian tribes such as the Celts, when the Romans conquered most of
Europe, jewellery was changed as smaller factions developed the Roman
designs. The most common artefact of early Rome was thebrooch, which was
used to secure clothing together. The Romans used a diverse range of materials
for their jewellery from their extensive resources across the continent. Although
they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone, and in earlier times, glass
beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported Sri
Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds and used emeralds and amberin their
jewellery. In Roman-ruled England, fossilised wood calledjet from Northern
England was often carved into pieces of jewellery. The early Italians worked in
crude gold and created clasps, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. They also
produced largerpendants that could be filled with perfume.
Like the Greeks, often the purpose of Roman jewellery was to ward off the Evil
Eye given by other people. Although women wore a vast array of jewellery, men
often only wore a fingerring. Although they were expected to wear at least one
ring, some Roman men wore a ring on every finger, while others wore none.
Roman men and women wore rings with an engraved gem on it that was used
with wax to seal documents, a practice that continued into medieval times
when kings and noblemen used the same method. After the fall of the Roman
Empire, the jewellery designs were absorbed by neighbouring countries and
tribes.
[20]
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Middle Ages
Merovingian fibulae, Bibliothque nationale de France.
6th century bronze eagle-shaped Visigothic cloisonn fibula
from Guadalajara,Spain, using glass-paste fillings in imitation ofgarnets.
Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery making skills.
The Celts and Merovingians in particular are noted for their jewellery, which in
terms of quality matched or exceeded that of Byzantium. Clothing fasteners,
amulets, and, to a lesser extent, signet rings, are the most common artefacts
known to us. A particularly striking celtic example is the Tara Brooch.
The Torc was common throughout Europe as a symbol of status and power. By
the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery
(with the exception of signet rings) seemed to become the domain of women.
Grave goods found in a 6th-7th century burial nearChalon-sur-Sane are
illustrative. A young girl was buried with: 2 silverfibulae, a necklace (with coins),
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bracelet, gold earrings, a pair of hair-pins, comb, and buckle.[25] The Celts specialised in continuous patterns and designs, while Merovingian
designs are best known for stylised animal figures. [26] They were not the only
groups known for high quality work. Note the Visigoth work shown here, and the
numerous decorative objects found at the Anglo-SaxonShip burial at Sutton
HooSuffolk, England are a particularly well-known example.[20] On the
continent, cloisonn and garnet were perhaps the quintessential method and
gemstone of the period.
The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, theByzantine Empire, continued
many of the methods of the Romans, though religious themes came to
predominate. Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the Celts, however, Byzantium
used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold, and more emphasis was placed
on stones and gems. As in the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier
females, with male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Like other
contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its owner.[27]
Renaissance
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The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the
development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration
and trade led to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as
exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and
precious metal had been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing
dominance of gemstones and their settings. A fascinating example of this is
theCheapside Hoard, the stock of a jeweller hidden in London during
the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained
Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite from Brazil, spinel,iolite,
and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, Afghani lapis
lazuli, Persianturquoise, Red Sea peridot, as well as Bohemian and
Hungarian opal,garnet, and amethyst. Large stones were frequently set in box-
bezels on enamelled rings.[28] Notable among merchants of the period wasJean-
Baptiste Tavernier, who brought the precursor stone of the Hope Diamond toFrance in the 1660s.
When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in 1804, he
revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in France. Under
Napoleons rule, jewellers introducedparures, suites of matching jewellery, such
as a diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, a diamond brooch, and a
diamond necklace. Both of Napoleons wives had beautiful sets such as these and
wore them regularly. Another fashion trend resurrected by Napoleon was
the cameo. Soon after his cameo decorated crown was seen, cameos were highlysought. The period also saw the early stages ofcostume jewellery, with fish
scale covered glass beads in place ofpearlsorconch shell cameos instead of
stone cameos. New terms were coined to diff