Adding a Lining to an Unlined Commercial Pattern

By Kate Freeburg

How Many times have you looked through

pattern books, found the perfect pattern? Almost anyway, but

you wanted the garment to be lined but the description

says “unlined”.

Tools you will need

• Pattern

• Tissue Paper

• Ruler

• Tape (I recommend Scotch Magic tape ½” , in the green box)

• French curve

• Colored Pencils (I like Prismacolor)

• Cardboard cutting mat

• Pins (to hold pattern pieces down on cutting mat

• Optional – SA ruler (seam allowance ruler)

ConsiderationsBefore You

Start

• Are you using shoulder pads?

• Are you using a different size button than called for

• Do you want to off grain the center front?

• Do you have a center back seam?

• What is your hem allowance

Steps

• Trim your pattern

• Tissue fit pattern

• Make all adjustments to the pattern

• Trim facing pattern pieces as needed

• Create Lining pattern for front

• Create Lining pattern for Back

• Create lining pattern for Sleeve

Make Adjustments

to Your Pattern

Trim your facing pattern pieces

3” – 4"

1.5” – 2”

1.5” – 2”

• Draw the seam allowance on the facing

Creating the Front Lining

Pattern

• Pin your front pattern piece to your cardboard cutting mat

• Lay your altered front facing pattern piece on top

• Lay the tissue paper on top

• Trace the pattern on the tissue paper

• Mark the seam line of facing where it is sewn to the lining.

• Add the seam allowance to the lining pattern

Creating the Back Lining Pattern

• Follow the same steps as with the front pattern piece

Creating Back Lining Pattern

Continued• Shoulder Seam

• Under Arm

Seam allowance between neck facing and Lining

Use a ¼” seam allowance

Creating Sleeve Lining Pattern

• Pin sleeve pattern to cardboard cutting mat

• Trace pattern making adjustments at sleeve cap and underarm