Beeswax Alchemy How to Make Your Own Soap

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Make your own beeswax

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PetraAhnert

CONTENTS

PREFACE

INTRODUCTIONTOBEESWAXBriefHistoryofBeeswax

HowBeeswaxIsUsedToday

CHAPTER1THEWAXCandleWax

BeekeepersWax

BroodWax

WhiteWax

InsiderTips

CHAPTER2CANDLEMAKINGRolledCandles

RolledTaperCandles

RolledPillarCandles

Wicking

MoldedCandles

VotiveCandles

MoldedPillarCandles

Hand-DippedCandles

Hand-DippedTaperCandles

Hand-DippedBirthdayCandles

CHAPTER3BALMSANDBARSBasicLipBalm

LipBalmwithButters

LipGloss

SolidBody-CareBars

SolidLotionBar

MassageBar

CuticleBalm

HeelBalm

ChestRub

NonPetroleumJelly

CHAPTER4SALVES,CREAMSANDSCRUBSSalveMasterRecipe

OilHerbalInfusion

All-PurposeSalve

CrackedSkinSalve

BurnSalve

ItchSoother

RosebudSalve

WoodworkersSalve

IcyJoint&MuscleBalm

EmulsifyingSugarScrub

BeeswaxCream

SolidNaturalPerfumes

SolidPerfumeMasterRecipe

PerfumeEssentialOilBlends

CHAPTER5SOAPSStarterRecipe(Nobeeswaxorhoney)

HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(Coldprocessrecipe)

Honey,Oats,andBeeswaxSoap(Hotprocessrecipe)

CHAPTER6HOMEPRODUCTSBeeswaxOrnaments

BeeswaxDippedLeaves

BeeswaxPineconeFirestarters

BeeswaxLuminaries

CuttingBoardConditioner

SolidWoodPolish

WoodConditionerCream

BeeswaxFurntiurePolish

WaxedFabric

WaterproofSneakers

WaxedCottonSandwichWraps

BeadingandSewing

ThreadConditioner

CHAPTER7BEESWAXARTBatik

Encaustic

CHAPTER8INGREDIENTSGUIDEButters

Oils

Miscellaneous

FattyAcidGlossary

Herbs

EssentialOils

Resources

Acknowledgments

AbouttheAuthor

Index

PREFACE

Istartedworkingwithbeeswaxin2003whenmyboyfriendandIgotourfirsthives,butmyloveaffairwithcraftstartedbackwhenIwasachild.IamanonlychildborntoGermanimmigrants.Mymotherlivedanadventurouslifebeforemeetingmydad.ShetrainedasakindergartenteacherinGermanyandspenteightyearslivinginPeru,teachinginaGermanschool.Itwastherewhereshewasinspiredtolearntomakethingsbyhandandfromscratch.BythetimeIcamealong,shehadbecomethequintessentialhousewife—anexcellentcook,accomplishedseamstress,andavidgardener.Latershestudiedweaving,pottery,andlapidaryatthelocalcommunitycollege.Shehadamantrathatstillechoesinmyheadtoday:“Youcanmakethat!”SheusuallyremindedmeofthiswhenIwaseyeingsomethingatthemallthatIwantedtobuywithmyallowanceandusually,underhertutelage,IsucceededinmakingsomethingIlikedevenbetter.

MyfatherwastrainedasamachinistinGermanyandhadtheveryprecisemindthistypeofworkrequired.HespentmostofhislifeworkingasamachinistinGermanyandtheUnitedStates,andlaterasanengineer.Athome,hewas“Mr.fix-it”and“Mr.build-it.”Healwayshadsomesortofprojectthatkepthimoccupied.Whenheandmymomfirstgotmarried,moneywastight,sohebuiltalltheirfurniture—bedandnightstandsinthebedroom,couchandcoffeetableforthelivingroom,andakitchentable.Beingsomewhatofatraditionalist,heencouragedmetospendmyfreetimewithmymother,helpingherwithcooking,cleaning,andgardening,buthewasdoingfarmoreexcitingthingsinthegarageandworkshop.SoIwouldoftenjoinhimtohelpwithhisprojectsandlearnaboutwoodworkingandmechanicalthingssuchaslawnmowersandcars.

Iamdefinitelyaproductofthesetwocharacters!Iremembertakinganinterests-and-careertestgivenbytheguidancecounselorinhighschool.IansweredeachquestionashonestlyasIcouldandthenwaitedforwhatseemedlikeweeksforthetestresults.Theresultscameintheformofanumberwithasupportingpiechartthatmappedthenumbersaroundtheoutside,andeachnumberrepresentedacareerpath.Myresultwas99andIsearchedthepiechartforalongtimebeforeIfinallyfoundit—rightsmackdabinthemiddleofthecircle.Idon’trememberexactlywhattheycalledthatcategory,butIthinkitwas“unclassified”orsomethingequallyobtuse.Iwasfurious!ItwasNOhelpatall!Intheyearssince,Ihavecometolovemy99score,realizingthatitallboilsdowntobalanceanddesire.Basically,IcandowhateverIwanttodo,ifIputmymindtoit.ButtobetrulyhappyatwhatIamdoing,Imustfindthebalancebetweentheanalyticalandthecreative.IttookmefiveyearsofcollegeandsixteenyearsofworkasanengineertorealizeIneededtoincludecreativeoutletsinmylifeaswell.

WhenImetmyboyfriend,Karl,hewaslookingfordirectioninhislife.Ashorttimelater,hemetabeekeeper ’swifeatthelibrary.SheneededhelpprintingoutsomethingandafterKarlhelpedher,hementionedhisfascinationwithbees,andaskedherifherhusbandeverneededhelp.Shechuckledand

saidthatmostpeoplewereleeryofworkingwithbeessohecouldusuallyuseahand.ThenextweekKarlwashelpinghim,andbytheendoftheseasonhehadastarterhive.Hewashooked!Thenextyearwerampedup,buyingtenmorecolonies,andlearnedthatkeepingthebeesalivewasnotallthateasy!Wedidhavesomesuperyummyhoney,though,andsomeawesomelightyellowbeeswax.

RightaboutthetimethatKarldiscoveredbeekeeping,healsostumbledonmystashofhandmadesoaps.Thesesoapsweretheproductofatwo-yearsoap-makingbinge.Yearsearlier,myfriendLauriehadcalledmeupandaskedifIwantedtolearntomakesoap.Atthetime,Itoldherno—Ihadtoomanyhobbiesalreadyanddidn’tneedtoputmytimeandmoneyintoyetanotherone,butshepersistedandaboutamonthlater,Icalledherupandsaid,“Fine!Youwin.Showmehow.”Iwentshoppingforsuppliesandwescheduledadayforsoapmaking.Togetherwemadetwoorthreebatchesofsoapthatday.“OHMYGOSH!!!”Itoldher,“Thisisthecoolestthingever!”Iwashooked!Aftersheleft,Iwentoutandboughtmoresuppliesandmadeenoughsoaptolastanarmyalifetime!Ihandedthebarsouttofamilyandfriendsandhoardedthemaway.WhenIcouldn’tjustifymakinganymore,Istopped.

Karlquicklydiscoveredthathelikedmyhandmadesoapsmorethancommerciallyavailablesoaps,sowhenwestartedsellingourhoneyatlocalfarmers’markets,wedecidedtosellmysoapsaswell.Ifine-tunedmyrecipeandpeddledthemalongwithourartisanhoneys.Itwasagreatmatch.Withasurplusofbeeswax,Istartedmakingotheritemssuchaslipbalms,solidlotions,andsalves.Encouragedbythesuccessofmyproducts,Icontinuedaddingtomylinewithcreamsandlotions,perfumes,andcandles.Witheachproductaddition,Iacquirednewingredientsandnewknowledge.Ialsolearnedthevalueofexperimentation.FollowingarecipethatcomesoutofabookorofftheInternetcanyieldagoodproduct,butwhatmakesitgood?Havingafirmknowledgeoftheingredientsandwhytheyareintherecipeisextremelyimportant.

NowIhavefoundthatmybusinesssatisfiesmeonalllevels—IusemyanalyticalskillstocreateandexecuterecipesandIusemycreativeskillstodevelopthescentandlookofmyproducts.Allinperfectharmony.

INTRODUCTIONTOBEESWAXBeeswaxisthemiracleofthebeehive.Thecombisbuiltupfromnothingandservesasahouse,anursery,andafoodpantry.Overthemillennia,beeshavefiguredoutthatbybuildingtheircombsintohexagons,thecombsholdthemostamountofhoneyandrequiretheleastamountofwax.Thecombsalsoserveastheperfectareaforabeetoundergoitsmetamorphosisfromeggtobee.

Sowhatisbeeswax?Inthesimplestterms,itisawaxproducedbyhoneybeesofthegenusApis.Beeswaxconsistsofatleast284differentcompounds,mainlyavarietyoflong-chainalkanes,acids,esters,polyesters,andhydroxyesters,buttheexactcompositionofbeeswaxvarieswithlocation.Ithasaspecificgravityofabout0.95andameltingpointofover140°F(60°C).

Morespecifically,itisawaxthatissecretedfromeightwax-producingglandsontheworkerbee’sabdomen.Thewaxissecretedinthinsheetscalledscales.Thescales,whenfirstsecreted,looksabitlikemicaflakes.Theyareclear,colorless,tasteless,andverybrittle.Beeswaxistypicallyproducedbytheyoungerhousebeeswhentheyarebetweentwelveandtwentydaysold.Asthebeegrowsolderandbeginstocollectpollenandnectar,theseglandsstarttoatrophy,buttheirabilitytoproducebeeswaxdoesn’tdisappearcompletely.Whenbeesswarmtheywillrapidlyproducewaxcomb,sincetheyneedtoquicklycreateaplaceforthequeentolayeggsandsomewheretostorefood.

Toformthebeeswaxintohoneycomb,thebeeswillhanginstringsandaswaxisextrudedfromtheglandsofthewax-producingbeesitispassedbetweenthelegsandmouthsofthebeesthatformthechain,beingchewedandmoldedintoshapealongtheway.Thebeeswillthenusethiswaxtobuildthefamiliarhexagon-shapedhoneycells.Itisduringthisprocessthatthewaxstartstodevelopitscolorandopacity.Dependingonwhatkindofnectarandpollencomeintothehiveandisconsumedbythebees,microscopicbitsofthepollenandnectarremainandgetaddedtothewax.Ittakesabout1,100scalestomakeonegramofwax.

Undertherightconditions—meaningthereisanadequatesupplyoffoodandtheambienttemperaturewithinthehiveisbetween91°Fand97°F(33°Cand36°C)—workerbeescanproducebeeswaxondemand.Theyachievetherighttemperatureoncoolerspringdaysbyclusteringaroundthewax-producingbeeswhentheyarebuildingcomb.

Theproductionofbeeswaxinthehiveisverycostly,however.Ittakesabout8.4pounds(3.8kg)ofhoneytocreate1pound(425g)ofbeeswax.Thishoneycouldbeusedtofeedthenonforagingbeesoritcouldbesavedfortimeswhennectarisinshortsupply.Forthisreason,beeswaxisoftenchewedoffinonespotandplacedwhereitisneeded.Thereusingofoldcombalsocontributestothecolor,sinceitmayhavebeenusedforbroodrearingorhoneystorageandmaycontaincocoonremains,propolis,orpollen.

Mostofthewaxthatiscommerciallyavailableismadefromwhatbeekeeperscall“cappings.”Whenbeesproducehoney,theforagingbeecollectsthenectarandstoresitinoneofhertwostomachs(onestomachisreservedforhoneycollectionandtheotherforpersonaldigestion).Thenectarinthehoneystomachmixeswithenzymesandwhenthebeereturnstothehivesheplacesitintoawaitingcell.Asmorecellsarefilledwithnectar,beesfantheirwingstocreateairflowthroughthehive,whichhelpsdryoutthenectar.Byloweringthemoisturecontentofthenectartolessthan19percent,thebeesareensuringthatthehoneywillnotspoil.Thenthebeessystematicallyworktheirwayacrossframesandacrosshoneyboxes,cappingoffeachcelltopreventadditionalmoistureloss.

Whenbeekeepersharvestthehoney,theyremovetheframeswithhoneyfromthehiveandbringthemtothehoneyhouseforprocessing.Sinceallthehoneycellshavewaxcapsonthem,justaddingtheframestoahoneyextractorwouldyieldnohoney.Sobeekeepersfirstremovethewaxcapusingeitherahotknifeorsomesortofflail.Thewaxcappingsareaddedtoacappingtankandtheframesareplacedintotheextractortospinoutthehoney.

Whatabeekeeperdoeswiththewaxcappingsdependstoacertaindegreeonhowmanyhiveshehas.Inmostcases,heatisappliedtothecappings,allowingthehoneyandwaxtoliquefyandseparateintotwolayers—honeyonthebottomandwaxonthetop.Afterseveralmorefilteringstoremoveresidualhoneyandmiscellaneousbeeparts,thewaxlooksprettycleanandisgenerallyreadytogo.

Beekeepersalsomeltdownoldhoneyandbroodcombinordertoinstallcleanwaxanddogeneralmaintenanceontheframes.Overtheyears,broodcombwillhaveraisedmultiplecyclesofbeesandthecocoonfromthelarvaestagewillhaveturnedthecombadarkbrown.Also,potentialpathogensmayhavebeenintroducedeitherfromtheenvironmentorfrombeescarryingthepathogenwiththem.Thesepathogenscandecimateahiveratherquickly,whichiswhybeekeepersoftenreplacetheoldbroodcombwithcleanwax.Whilewaxfromcappingsandhoneycombsisfairlypure,thewaxfrombroodcombscontainsawideassortmentof“stuff”whichmayincludecocoonsfrombothbeesandwaxmoths,excrementfrombeelarvae,mites,pollen,propolis,andbeeparts.Allthisextrastuffiscalled“slumgum,”andremovingtheslumgumfromthewaxisamoreinvolvedprocess.Onemethodistoputthebroodcombsintoburlapsacksandthenaddthebagtoahotwaterbath.Themeltedwaxwillflowthroughtheburlapandtheslumgumwillstayinthebag.Beekeepersthenpress

theburlapsackstoreleasetherestofthetrappedwaxfromtheslumgum.Oncemostofthewaxispressedout,theslumgumisdiscardedandthewaxismoldedinto30–50lb(14–23kg)blocks.Theresultingwaxisusuallysignificantlydarkerthanthecappingswax,rangingfromlightbrowntoalmostblack.Ifthiswaxweretobeusedforsomethingsuchascandles,itwouldgiveoffanunpleasantsmell.Alotofbeekeepersturnthiswaxintobeesupplystoresforcredittoward“clean”waxorwaxthathasalreadybeenturnedintofoundationforinclusionintonewframes.Thebeesupplystoresshipthisdarkwaxtocommercialwaxprocessingoperationsthathavespecializedequipmentwithcarbonfiltersthatremovethecolorfromthewax.Thisprocessisfarbetterthanhowwaxwasfilteredinthepast,whenitwasbleachedusingnoxiouschemicalstoremovethecolor.Mostofthewhitewaxavailabletodayisachievednaturallyusingcarbonfiltersinsteadofchemicals.

Onedrawbacktotheheavilyrefined,highlyfilteredwaxisthatthearomaandcharmofbeeswax(aswellasmanyofitsuniquehealthadvantages)actuallycomefromthenatural“contaminants,”includinghoney,propolis,andpollen.Bleachingoradvancedrefiningofbeeswaxtoremoveitscolorandfragrance,yieldsaproductthatisabitbland.

BRIEFHISTORYOFBEESWAXTherelationshipbetweenbeesandhumansdatestothehunter–gathererdayswhen,armedwithnothingbutalongstickandalotofresolve,menwouldknockdownhivesfromtreesandrun,returningtothescenetoharvestthehoneywhenitwasdeemedsafe.Later,humansdiscoveredthatusingsmokefromaburningstickhelpedtosubduethebees,makingthejobabiteasier.Theusefulnessofwaxcouldverywellhavebeendiscoveredthen.Althoughsomeofthisisconjectureonmypart,therearecavepaintingsinValenciaSpaindatingbackabout8,000years,thatshowtwopeoplecollectinghoneyandhoneycombfromawildbeehive.Theyusedbasketsandgourdstotransportthehoneycomb,andaseriesofropestoreachthehive.

WeknowmoreabouttheancientEgyptiansandtheirrelationshipwithbeeswax.Theyrecognizedthevalueofbeeswaxinmummificationanduseditfortheembalmingprocess.Theyalsousedthewaxtosealthecoffinandmakeitairtight,furtherpreservingthebody.TheEgyptianspreservedtheirwritingsonpapyrusandoncavewallsusingbeeswax,andthesewritingshaveremainedunchangedformorethan2,000years.Theyevenrecognizedtheimportanceofbeeswaxinhealth,asprescriptionsdatingbackto1550BCcalledforbeeswaxinvariousformulations.Ancientjewelersandartisansutilizedthelostwaxcastingtechnique,whichinvolvessculptinganobjectinbeeswax,coatingtheobjectwithclay,andthenhardeningtheclaywithheat.Theheatmeltedthewax,leavingaclayshellthatwasaperfectreplicaofthebeeswaxsculpture.Moltenmetalwasthenpouredintotheclayshellandallowedtohardenbeforetheclaywasremoved.

Egyptianpriestsalsocreatedthefirstvoodoodolls,usingbeeswaxtocreatefiguresresemblingtheirenemiesbeforerituallydestroyingthem.Egyptiansalsolovedperfumesandwerereputedtohavemadeperfumedunguents,theprecursorstotoday’ssolidperfumes.Theyincorporatedbeeswax,tallow,andvariousaromaticsubstancesinfusedinoil,suchasmyrrh,henna,cinnamon,thyme,sage,anise,rose,andiris.Theunguentsweren’tsoldasperfumes,butratherforamultitudeofmedicaluses.

TheChinesealsorecognizedtheimportanceofbeeswax.About2,000yearsago,oneofChina’smostfamousbooksonmedicine,TheShennongBookofHerbs,praisedbeeswaxforitsbeneficialinfluenceonbloodandenergysystemsandattributedbeeswaxwithbeautyenhancementandantiagingproperties.Beeswaxwasalsorecognizedasanimportantingredientinwoundtreatmentanddietarysupplement.

BeeswaxcandleswerealreadyusedbytheancientEgyptians,ancientGreeks,andinRomeandChina.BeeswaxcandleshavebeenusedinEuropeanchurchessincethebeginningofChristianity.TheRomanCatholicChurchonlyallowedbeeswaxcandlestobeusedinthechurch.Althoughthislawisstillvalidtoday,candlesarenolongerrequiredtobe100percentbeeswax.Bytheeleventhcentury,however,churcheswereusinghugeamountsofcandles.Theywereabletomaintainthenecessaryamountofbeeswaxinpartbyhavingapiariesineverymonasteryandabbey.

InthedaysofMarcoPolo,beeswaxwasabundantandwasoftenusedtopaytributetokings.Butdespiteitsabundance,beeswaxcandleswereonlyinthehandsoftherich;thepoorhadtosufferwithtallowcandles.

HOWBEESWAXISUSEDTODAYToday,whentechnologyseemstotrumpallelse,itisencouragingtoseethataproductwithsucharichhistoryisjustasvitalinthetwenty-firstcenturyasitwaslongago.

Ourworldischangingandthefutureofthehoneybeeisabigunknown.Betweenclimatechanges,farmingpractices,geneticmodifications,andpesticideuse,thefuturelooksbleak,butthereisagrassrootsmovementtochangethingsforthebetter.Youngpeoplearerediscoveringrurallifeandareturningagriculturalwastelandsbackintoviablefarms.Thesefarmsarerichincropdiversityandtypicallyabidebymoreorganicfarmingpractices.Althoughbeeswaxdoesn’thavenearlytheapplicationsithadyearsago,itstillhasmanygreatuses.Thefollowingarejustafewexamplesofthediversewaysthatbeeswaxisbeingusedtoday.

CANDLESAlthoughthemetalmoldsthathavebeenusedforagesarestillbeingusedtomakebeeswaxcandles,therearealsomodernsiliconemoldsthatmakemoreintricateshapeseasy.

ORNAMENTSAdorningthehousewithdecorativebeeswaxelementsisatraditionthatseemstobecatchingasecondwind,frommoldedshapestowaxedfallleaves,withscentaddedorjustthenaturalbeeswaxsmell.

LIPBALMAlthoughthereareothermoderningredientsthathavebeenusedtofirmuplipbalmandformanocclusivelayer,nothingisbetterthanbeeswaxforkeepinglipssoftandmoisturized.

COSMETICSBeeswaxplaysahugeroleinthemakingofbeautyandpersonalcareproducts!Thingslikemoisturizer,lotionbars,andevenhomemademascaraallcontainbeeswax,whichhelpsprotectandmoisturizetheskin.Beeswaxisevenusedinhairpomadesanddreadlockwax.

MEDICINALCREAMSANDSALVESBeeswaxhasbeenusedasathickenerandocclusiveformillennia.

FOUNDATIONFORNEWHONEYCOMBINHIVESBeeswaxisgreatforreplacingexistinghivebodyandhoneysuperframeswithcleanwax,givingbeesaheadstart.

WATERPROOFLEATHERCombineequalpartsbeeswax,neatsfootoil,andtallow.Diparagintothemixture,andrubitontoapairofleatherbootsorgloves.

LUBRICANTFORFLY-FISHINGLINESRubalittlebeeswaxonfishinglinetokeepitfromtangling.

LUBRICANTFORFURNITURE,DOORS,ANDWINDOWSUsebeeswaxtolubricatethehingesofdoorsandwindows.

RUSTPREVENTATIVEFORTOOLSTonullifytheeffectsofoxidationcausedbymoistair,simplybrushthetoolswithasolutionof1/3pound(142g)ofbeeswaxmeltedwithonequartofturpentine.Thiscanalsobeusedonbronzeaswell.

WAXFORBOWSTRINGSBeeswaxhelpswaterproof,lubricate,andslickenbowstrings,makingthemeasiertoplay.

FRYINGPANSANDIRONSBeeswaxprotectspansagainstoxidation,helpsintheseasoningprocess,andimprovesnonstickqualityofpansandirons.

SOAPMAKINGBeeswaxhelpstomakeanice,firmbarofsoap.

BEARDANDMUSTACHEWAXBeeswaxisusedincommercialmustachecreams,especiallythoseusedtostiffenorcontrolaman’sbeardormustache.

GRAFTINGWAXPlantpropagatorsapplygraftingwaxeitherbyitselforincombinationwithgraftingtapeorstringtopreventthesurfacesfromdryingout,tokeepthescionandrootstocksurfacespressedtightlytogetheruntiltheygrowtogether,andtokeepoutwaterandairandtheaccompanyingplantpathogenstheymaycarry,includingbacteriaandfungi.A“cold”graftingwaxcanbemadeoutoffourpartsresin,twopartsbeeswax,andoneparttallow.

CRAYONSMakeyourowncrayonswithbeeswax,soap,andartistpigments.Mixequalpartsgratedsoapandbeeswax.Meltthebeeswaxandgratedsoapinadoubleboilerandstiruntilmeltedandthemixtureissmooth.Colorthemixturewithdryartist’spigment.

SEALINGONJAMSANDJELLIESUsejustlikeparaffintosealthetopsofjamsandjellies.

“LOST-WAX”CASTINGThisisamethodofmetalcastingwhereamoltenmetalispouredintoamoldthathasbeencreatedbymeansofawaxmodel.Oncethemoldismade,thewaxmodelismeltedanddrainedaway.

WOODFILLERFillsmallholesandcrackswithplainortintedbeeswax.

GLASSETCHINGAmixtureofbeeswaxandresinactasaresistormaskwhenetchingglass.

CANDYINGREDIENTBeeswaxgivesgummybearsandjellybeanstheirrubberyandchewytexture.

CANELÉSDEBORDEAUXTheseFrenchbakeryconfectionswithamahoganybrown,crunchyoutsideandacreamy,gooeyinsidearemoldedinindividualflutedcups,traditionallymadeofcopper.Itisatwotothreedayprocesstomakethem,andbeeswaxisusedasamoldreleaseandispartofthesecrettothecrunchyoutside.Canelésareaconfectionthatcanbemaddeninginitselusivenessandmanyhavegivenupwithouthavingreachedperfection.AlthoughIhaven’tgivenupyet,IamstillafarcryfrommakingwhatIwouldcalltheperfectCanelé!Staytuned.

CHAPTER1THEWAXMostbeekeepershavealove–haterelationshipwithbeeswax.Whentheyneedit,itisusuallynotthere,oratleastnotintheformneeded,suchasbeeswaxfoundation.Whentheyhaveit,itrequiresquiteabitofprocessingtomakeituseable,soitisoftensetasidetobehandled“later.”Theproductionofwaxalsoremoveshoneyfromthehivefoodstoresinordertofeedwax-producingbees,effectivelyreducingtheamountofhoneyyield,sotomaximizehoneyproduction,beekeeperstrytokeepasmuchcombinthehiveaspossible.Beekeeperstraditionallyprocesstheirwaxeitherduringhoneyextractionorduringthewinterandearlyspringmonthswhenotherbeekeepingmaintenanceiscomplete.

Inthischapteryou’lllearn

–Waxvarieties

–Insidertipsforworkingwithwax

CANDLEWAX

Forthingssuchascandles,especiallypillarcandles,theresidualhoneyinthewaxcausesthewaxtoburnunevenly,cloggingthewick.Thebestwaytogetthelastofthehoneyoutofthewaxistoallowittoclarifyinaheateddoubleboilerorwaxtank.Admittedly,thistaskiseasiertoaccomplishwiththewaxtankthanadoubleboiler,sincethewaxmustremaininaliquidstateforquiteawhileuntilallthehoneyhassettledtothebottom.Iusuallyletminesettleforacoupledays.Thebestwaytodetermineifitisdoneisbycheckingtheclarityofthewax.Whenitisfirstmelted,ithasmurkinesstoit.Asthehoneysettles,thewaxbeginstoclarify.Whenthewaxisclear,filteritthroughacleanpieceoffeltclothandpourintomoldstodividethewaxintouseableportions.Iusuallydoavarietyofdifferentsizes,from1-ounce(28g)ingotsupto10–20pound(4.5–9kg)blocksthatstoreeasily,butarestillsmallenoughtofitintomywaxmelter.ThisensuresthatIhavetherightsizeforwhateverIammaking.Theresultingwaxisstillyellowandretainsthesignaturehoneylikescent,althoughthefilteringmayhavelightenedupthewaxslightly.

BEEKEEPERSWAX

Myfirstwaxprocessingexperiencewaswhilehelpinganotherbeekeeperwithhishoneyextracting.Hisoperationseemedhugetomeatthetime(hemaintainsaround1,200colonies),butIhavelearnedthatincomparisontoothercommercialoperations,hisisprobablyonthesmallerside.Therearesomecommercialbeekeepingoperationsthatmaintainupwardsof50,000colonies.Thereisverylittledifferencebetweenhowthesetwotypesofbeekeepersdotheirwaxprocessing,exceptthatthelarge-scaleoperationsmayhaveamoreautomatedversionofwhatIexperienced.

Thefirststepintheprocessistoplacethehoneyframesintoamachinethatcutsthecapfromthetopofthehoneycells.Theremovedcappingsarefunneledintoatroughwheretheyarepushedthroughaverycoarsescreenbeforeenteringtheprocessingarea.Theframesaremovedtothehoneyextractor.Thewaxprocessingareamayhaveeitheracentrifugewherethehoneyisflungtotheoutside,renderingthecappingsvirtuallyfreeofhoney,oraheatedchamberwithaseriesofbafflesthatseparatethehoneyfromthewax.

Thewaxthatresultsfromeitheroftheseprocessesisgenerallywherethebeekeepersstop.Itisusuallyareallyniceyellowishwaxwithalovelyhoneylikesmell.However,thereisstillsomehoneyleftinthewax.Itmaynotbeallthatnoticeable,butitisthere.Forsomeapplications,suchaslipbalms,itisnotaproblemtoahaveabitofhoneyinthewax,butforotherapplications,cleanerwaxisneeded.

BROODWAX

Thisisthewaxthatcomesfrommeltingdownoldbroodcomb.Broodcombisusuallyreplacedonathree-tofive-yearcycle.Afterthehivehasrearedmultiplebatchesofbroodonaframeofwax,thewaxcellskeepgettingsmallerandsmaller,sincethecocoonmaterialremains.Inthewild,MotherNaturehasseentotherenewalofthiscomb,asthewaxmothlarvaelovestoeatthebroodcomb.Themothsarevoraciouseatersandcandecimateaboxofstoredcombsoverthewintermonths,forcingthebeestobuildupthecellwallsagainbeforethequeencanlayeggsintothatspace.Forkeptbees,beekeeperstakeontheroleofthewaxmothlarvaebyremovingtheoldwaxandreplacingitwithfreshwaxfoundation.

Theprocessofrenderingthewaxfromthecocoons,propolis,andotheritemsinthebroodcombisanarduousone.Alltheseadditionalelementsneedtobefilteredoutbeforethewaxitselfcanbecleaned.Todothis,mostbeekeepersputthewaxintoburlapsacks,stackingpressplatesinbetween,andheatthewholeworksuptomeltthewax.Oncethewaxismelted,theplatesarepressedtoreleasewhateverwaxremainsintheslumgumandthenthewaxisstrainedoffthetop.

Thewaxthatcomesfromthisprocessisusuallyreallydark.Althoughalotofthebiggerparticlesofpropolis,cocoon,andslumgumareremovedinthisprocess,themicroscopicbitsstillremain.Overtime,thesebitsactuallytintthewax,soevenfilteringthewaxwillonlylightenitslightly.Althoughitmaynotlookandsmellasniceasyellowcappingswax,itdoeshaveitsfavoredapplications.Itworksreallywellfordarkerwoodfinishes.Thelightwaxcanhavea“glazing”effectovertimethatisdiminishedwhenusingthedarkercoloredwax.Italsoworkswellondarkerleathers.Iuseourdarkwaxtoconditionandpolishmyshoes.Wealsosupplyalocalblacksmithwithsomedarkwax.Heprefersthedarkestwaxwehave,sinceheusesittosealandprotecthiswroughtironpieces.

WHITEWAX

BeforeIgotintoencausticpainting,Ihadnouseforanythingbesidesyellowwax.Ilovedthecolor,thescent,everything!SowhenIstartedmakingmyfirstbatchofencausticmedium,IusedwhatIhadonhand.IfiguredthatIcouldmaketheyellowcolorpartofmy“signature”look.WRONG!Asidefrommyineptskillsasanencausticartist,itlookedhorrible.Thecolorsweremuddyanddidn’tflowaswellasIhadenvisioned,soIdidsomeresearchon“white”beeswax.MyhopewasthatIwouldbeabletoremovesomeofthecolorfromthewaxmyself.FirstItriedbleachingitinthesun.Thatworks,butonlytoacertaindegree.Sundoeslightenthecolorofthewax,butthepresenceofmicroscopicbitsofpropolis,slumgum,andpossiblyhoneyaddedcolorthatcouldnotbecompletelybleachedbythesun.

Toremovetheinherentcolorantsinthewax,itneedstoundergoadifferentprocessthatmostathomecannotachieve.Inthepast,whitewaxwastreatedchemicallytoseparateoutthepropolisandother“contaminants.”Thisprocessyieldedanice,whitewax,buttracesofsomeofthechemicalsremained.Notgood!Today,mostofthewhitewaxisnottreatedchemically.Itisrunthroughaseriesofsuperfinefiltersthatremovethe“contaminants,”withouttheadditionofharshchemicals.

Thecoloroftheresultantwaxisverylightandasclosetowhiteaspossible,butthereisalsoatranslucencythatisnotavailableintheyellowwaxes.Thistranslucencyiswhatmakesitgreattouseforencaustics.Also,sincealotofthe“contaminants”arewhatgivethewaxnotonlyitssignaturecolorandsmell,butalsoitsmyriadhealthbenefits,whitewaxisnotmypreferenceforuseontheskin.

INSIDERTIPS

RECIPEUSAGEGUIDE

Allofmyrecipesarewrittenusingpercentages.Theadvantagetodoingthisisthattherecipecanbeeasilyscaledupordown.Thedisadvantageisthatalittlemathisrequiredtoconverttheequationintoausablerecipe.Here’showtodothat.

Examplerecipe:

SheaButter 31%

SweetAlmondOil 31%

Beeswax 31%

FlavorOil 7%

1.Chooseaunitofmeasurewithwhichtowork.Metricunits,suchasgramsormilliliters,workbest,astheyareeasiertomultiply.TheycanbeconvertedbacktoEnglishunitsattheendoftheprocess.Therecipesinthisbookincludegrammeasurementsinadditiontothepercentages.

2.Decidethedesiredsizeofyourbatch.Forthisexamplewewillusea10-ozbatch,whichisequalto283grams.

3.Determinethepercentageofeachportionoftherecipe.Multiplythenumberofthefullbatchbythepercentageforexample,283g×0.31(%)=87.73g.

4.Roundtothedesiredprecision(87.73roundedtothenearestwholenumber=88g).

5.Finalizetherecipe.Usingthesamplerecipe,itnowlookslikethis:

SheaButter 88grams

SweetAlmondOil 88grams

Beeswax 88grams

FlavorOil 20grams

6.Useadigitalkitchenscaleandaplasticdelicontainertomeasureingredients.Remembertozeroouttheweightofthecontainerbeforeweighingingredients.

SMALLAMOUNTSOFBEESWAX

WhenIneedsmallamountsofbeeswaxforarecipe,itcanbecumbersometobreakachunkofwaxoffalargeblockorgratesomewaxtouse.Beeswaxcanbepurchasedcommerciallyintheformofpastilles,whicharesmallsphericalbeadsofwax.Sincemostofthiswaxisthehighlyprocessed“whitewax,”Iprefertomoldmyownwaxinoneoftwoways.Thegoalistohavewaxthatmeltsquickly(thinpiecesworkwell)andiseasytomeasure(small).

Onemethodistopourthemeltedwaxintoamoldthatistraditionallyusedtoshapechocolate;themoldformsathinblockwithscorelinesthatallowthechocolate—orinourcasethebeeswax—tobebrokenatthescorelines.Thereareapproximatelysixsquarestoanounce(28g),(theyvaryabitindepthandactualbreaklines).Anycombinationofsquaresshouldworkforalmostanyrecipe.Iusethismethodtosaveanyleftoverwaxafterpouringcandles.

Thesecondmethodcallsforpouringthemeltedwaxontoacookiesheet(withsides)thatislinedwithfreezerpaper.Thiswillyieldasheetofwaxthatisvariableinthickness,butcanbebrokenintosmallerchunkseasily.IusethismethodwhenIhavewaxthatIwanttotransformintoflakes.

USETHEFREEZER

Beeswaxgetsbrittlewhenitisfrozen,makingiteasytobreakoffchunksasneeded.Istoremywaxinblocksthatweigharound35pounds(15.9kg).Althoughgreatforstorage,theseheavyblocksaretoobigtofitintomywaxtank.SinceIusethemostwaxinwinter,andweathergetscoldaroundhere,Iusethegreatoutdoorsasmy“freezer,”butaregularfreezercanbeemployedtodothesamething.

Oncemyblockisfrozen,Iputitinaheavy-dutygarbagebag(Iusetheblackplasticcontractorbags)anddropitonthepavementbehindmyhouse.Usually,itdoesn’ttakemorethanacoupleofdropstocreatesomegood-sizechunksthatareperfectforlargerprojectsortomeltdownandmoldintosmallerchunks.

Thefreezerisalsogreatforhelpingtoreleasecandlesthatarestuckinmetalmolds.Justleavethestubborncandleinthefreezerforahalfhourorso,andwhenthemoldisremovedthecandleshouldslipoutfairlyeasily.

PROTECTSURFACES

Whenusingbeeswaxforprojectsthatcallforwaxtobeapplied,eitherbybrushingiton,usinganothertypeoftooltoapplyit,ordippingitinwax,makesurethattheworksurfaceisprotected.Itisaloteasiertocleanupasheetofpaperthanitistocleanwaxoffthecountertop.

CLEANINGUPUTENSILS

Thejoyofanewlymadecandlecanquicklybecomefrustrationwhenfacedwiththetaskofcleaningup.Beeswaxdoesnotcleanupeasilyinthe“traditional”way.Soapandwaterwon’ttouchthewaxunlessitishot,andeventhenitwillonlysmearthewaxaround.Irecommendacquiringafewcontainersthatwillbeusedexclusivelyformeltingbeeswax.Thatway,thereisnocleanupneededandnoleftoverbeeswaxintomorrow’sdinner.Ifabeeswaxcontainerdoesneedtobecleaned,thebestwayIhavefoundistoturnitintoabalmbyaddingabitofoil,whicheffectivelydropsthemeltingtemperature.Thenwashwithhotwaterandsomegrease-dissolvingdishsoap.Tocleanawaxybowl,wipethebowlwithoil(anyoilwilldo)andheatthebowlwithaheatgun(lowheat)orinthemicrowaveifitissafetodoso,andwipewithapapertowel.Repeatuntilthebowlisrelativelycleanandthenwashwithdishsoapandwater.

Forproductssuchasbalmsandcreams,Iliketousenewplasticdelicontainersthatcanbetossedoncetheproductismade.Theyarequiteheatproof,foodgrade,sterile,andcomeinavarietyofsizes.Theyalsomakepouringproductintosmallercontainersrelativelyeasy,sincetheplasticismalleableenoughtopinchintoapourspout.Irealizethatthisnotthemosteco-consciousthingtodoandIreservetheiruseforthingsthatrequiresterility,suchaslotionsandcreams.

CHAPTER2CANDLEMAKINGAwell-madebeeswaxcandleisabeautifulthing!However,makingawell-madecandleisnotanafternoon’sfun.Thereisalotofmoldingandburntestingthatneedstobedone,beforeperfectionisreached.Ihopethedirectionsandhintsfoundinthischapterwillmakeyourroadtoperfectionshorterandmorefulfillingthanmine.

Inthischapteryou’lllearnhowtomake

–Rolledcandles

–Moldedcandles

–Hand-dippedcandles

ROLLEDCANDLESRolledcandlesareagreatstartingpointforcandlemaking,sincetheprocessrequiresveryfewtoolsandthecandlescanbemadeinawiderangeofcolors.Theycanbemadeastapers,pillars,square,orevenassmall,thincandlessuchasbirthdaycandles.

BEG INNER

ROLLEDTAPERCANDLES

MATERIALS1beeswaxsheet,alsocalledbeeswaxfoundation,8"×16"(20.5cm×40.5cm)

2pieces(9",or23cmeach)ofsquarebraidwicking(2/0isagoodsizetostart,mightbegoodtoalsohave3/0and1/0onhand)

Yield:2tapercandles

1.Gentlyfoldthebeeswaxsheetinhalf,bendingitbackandforthuntilitbreakstocreatetwo8"(20.5cm)squares.

2.Laya9"(23cm)pieceofwickalongtherawedgeofthesheet,withoneendofthewickflushwiththesideofthebeeswaxsheetandtheotherextendedout.

3.Pinchthebeeswaxoverthewick,sothatthewaxismoldedallaroundthewickfromoneendtotheother.

4.Startrollingthecandle,keepingevenpressureacrossthewidth.Don’tcrushthebeautifulhoneycombpatternonthebeeswaxsheets,butmakesurethecandledoesn’tcomeundone.Ifonesidestartsrollingtighterthantheother,unrollthecandleabitandtryagain.Itmaytakeacoupletriestogetitright.

5.Oncethecandleisevenlyrolled,gentlypresstheendedgeintothecandletokeepitinplace.

INTERMED IATE

ROLLEDPILLARCANDLESPillarcandlescanbemadeinavarietyofshapesandsizes.Hereisthebasicinformationneededtoexpandontherolledtapercandle.

MATERIALS1fullsheetbeeswax

wicking(#2willprobablywork,butalsohave#1and#3onhand)

scissors

Yield:1pillarcandle

1.Gentlyfoldthebeeswaxsheetinhalflengthwise,bendingitbackandforthuntilitbreakstocreatetwo4"×16"(10cm×40.5cm)pieces.

2.Cutthewicktoapproximately5"(10.5cm)andfollowdirectionsforRolledTaperCandlesonpage

23tosecurethewickandbeginrollingthepillar.

3.Whenyoureachtheendofthefirstsheetofbeeswax,laythesecondsheetagainsttheedgeofthefirstsheetandcontinuerolling.

4.Attheendofthesheet,gentlypresstheendedgeintothecandletokeepitinplace.Thecandleshouldmeasureapproximately2"(5cm)across.Doaburntest(page26)tomakesurethecorrectwicksizewasused.

VARIATIONSAlthoughbothtaperandpillarcandlesusearectangularorsquarepieceofbeeswaxfoundation,thebeeswaxcanalsobecuttocreateothershapes.

Tomakeacandlewithataperedtop,cutoffawedgepiecefromthetopofthecandle.

Rollingthetrimmedofftriangularpieceofwaxwillresultinaconicalshape.Fortheholidays,IlovetomakeaforestofsmallshortstylizedChristmastreesoutofgreenwaxusingthistechnique.

Arolledcandlecanalsobecompressedintoasquarebyflatteningagainstyourworksurfacethenrotatingthecandleninetydegreesandflatteningthenextside.Continuingrotatingandflatteninguntilthecandlehasanicesquareshape.

NOTE:Thistechniqueworksbetterwithpillarcandlesthantapers.

WICKINGAlthoughtherearelotsofdifferentkindsofcandlewicking,forbeeswaxIliketousesquarebraidcottonwicking.Thewickactsasapipelinethatcarriesthemeltedwaxintheformofavaportotheflameviacapillaryaction.Somewicksallowlotsoffueltoflowquicklythroughabigpipe,whileotherwickspumpfuelmoreslowlythroughasmallerpipe.Ifyougivetheflametoomuchortoolittlefuel,itwilleitherburnpoorlyorsputterout.Thebalanceoffuelandflowneedstobejustright.

Thenomenclatureofsquarebraidwickingreferstothenumberofbundles,theplyofthewick,andhowtightlyitisbraided.The6/0to1/0rangeofwicks,areconstructedabitdifferentlythanthelargerwicks,butallofthemaresquare,whichhelpstochannelthewaxfumesuptotheflame.Itisimportanttokeepyourwickswell-labeledandseparatedsincesimilarsizeslookidentical.Oftentheonlydifferenceisthetightnessofthebraiding.

Squarebraidwickformsacarboncaponthetopofthewick.Thecarboncapradiatesheatoutwardfromtheflame,whichhelpsmeltwaxthatisfurtherawayfromtheflame.Thewickalsobendsslightlyasitburns,minimizingcarbonbuild-upandmakingforacleanerburn.

THERIGHTSIZEWICKUsethefollowingtesttodeterminetheproperwicksizeandscaleupordownasneeded.Usethistestshouldforallcandles,althoughkeepinmindthatrolledcandlescanbeabitmoreforgiving.Thetestisespeciallyimportantwithmoldedpillarcandles.Dependingonthediameterofthecandle,differentwicksareneededtoprovideenoughflametomeltthewaxwithoutcreatingatorchthatthreatenstoburndownthehouse.

BASICBURNTESTTESTTHEPROPERWICKSIZEANDSCALEUPORDOWNASNEEDEDFORPILLARORVOTIVECANDLES.

A.Thiswickistoosmall.(Theflameisdrowninginthesmallmeltpool.)B.PerfectC.Thiswickistoolarge.(Theflameistoolarge,resultinginalotofsmoke.)

1.Trimthewicktoalengthof1/4"(6mm).Ifyouaretestingmorethanonewick,makesurethecandlesareclearlylabeled.

2.Placethetestcandlesonaclean,flat,heat-resistantsurfaceabout3"to6"(7.5cmto15cm)apart.Besuretoselectadraft-freespotthatisfullviewofyourworkspace.Donotleavelitcandlesunattended.

3.Lightthecandlesandrecordthetime.Itiscriticaltokeepaneyeonthecandleswhiletheyareburning,especiallywhentestingnewwicks.

4.Iftestingpillarcandles,allowthemtoburnfortwohoursthenrecordthedetailsofthemeltpoolandwickappearance.Ideallythemeltpoolwillachievethedesireddiameterbythispoint.Althoughthereareindividualpreferences,Ilikemymeltpooltoextendalmostouttotheedgeofthecandle,leavingapproximately1/4"–1/2"(6mm–1.3cm)ofwaxaroundtheoutside.Iftheflamehasnotmeltedenoughofameltpool,thewickismostlikelytoosmall.Noteanysootormushroomingonthewick.

5.Allowthecandletoburnforanotherfourhoursandrecordthedetailsofthemeltpoolandwickagainbeforegentlyblowingouttheflame.Atthispointthemeltpoolofawell-wickedcandlewillhaveachievedthedesireddiameterandshouldbeapproximately1/2"(1.3cm)deep.Ifthewickismushrooming,thecandleissooting,orthemeltpoolissubstantiallydeeperthan1/2"(1.3cm),thewickismostlikelytoolarge.

6.Allowthecandletocoolforatleastfivehoursandrepeatsteps3,4,and5untilthecandleis

completelyburned.Thequalityofburnwillalmostalwayschangeduringtheentireburningofthecandle.Burntheentirecandlebeforedecidingonawick.

MOLDEDCANDLESAllmoldedcandlesarebasicallymadethesamewayandrequirethesamebasictools,justdifferentmolds.Itisimportanttousethecleanestwaxpossiblewhenmakingmoldedcandles.Impurities,suchasresidualhoney,willaffectthelookandperformanceofthecandle.

BEG INNER

VOTIVECANDLESVotivecandlesandtealightsaretheworkhorsesofthecandleworld.Votivesareintendedtobeburnedinavotiveholder,notontheirown.Thismeansthatthecandleshouldfitwithintheholderreasonablywellandthecandleshouldbewickedsothatthewaxisliquidallthewaytotheedge.Mostvotivesburnforsixtoeighthours.

MATERIALS1lb(425g)beeswax

Eco-2pre-tabbedwicks

doubleboilerorwaxmelter

Kraftpaper,newspaper,orbutcherpaper

siliconespray

votivemolds

wickpins,enoughfor10candles

beeswaxpouringpitcher

thermometer

heatgun

feltcloth,optional(enoughtowraparoundeachofthemoldsonce)

Yield:8–10votivecandles

1.Meltthebeeswaxinadoubleboilerorawaxmelter.Donotmeltbeeswaxdirectlyonthestovewithoutthewaterbath.WhenIfirststartedmakingcandles,Iusedacleancoffeecantomeltmywax.Periodicallycheckthetemperatureofthewaxtomakesureitisn’tgettingtoohot.

TIP:CoverworksurfacewithKraftpaper,newspaper,orbutcherpaper.Thiswillhelpwithcleanupifsomewaxshouldaccidentallyspill.

2.Whilewaitingforthewaxtomelt,preparethemolds.Ifusingmetalmolds,spraytheinsidewithamoldreleasespray(silicone).Spraythewickpinsaswellandmakesuretheyareproperlyseatedonthebottomofthevotivemold.

3.Oncethewaxiscompletelymelted,usethethermometertocheckthetemperatureofthewax.Iliketopourmycandleswhenthewaxisinthe165°F–170°F(74°C–77°C)range.Ifitishotterthanthat,letitcoolabitbeforepouringintothemolds.

TIP:Tocreateabeautifulcandlewithasmoothsurfaceandsymmetricalshape,startwithawarmmold.IuseaheatguntowarmthemoldrightbeforeIpourinthehotwaxtoensurethatthewaxdoesn’thardentooquicklyalongtheedgeswhereitcomesincontactwiththemold.Alsobesuretoallowplentyoftimeforthecandletocooldownslowlyinthemold.Whileslowcoolinginthemoldsismoreimportantwithlargerdiametercandles,it’sbesttokeepallcandlesfromcoolingtooquickly,regardlessoftheirsize.Toslowthecoolingprocess,Isuggestwrappingalayeroffeltclotharoundthemoldstoinsulatethem.

4.Warmthevotivemoldswiththeheatgunthenpourthewaxintothemolds.Letthewaxcoolcompletelybeforetryingtoremovefromthemold.Pulluponthewickpinstoremovethecandleandthentapthewickpinagainstasolidsurfacetodislodgeitfromthevotive.

5.Threadapre-tabbedwickuptheholeleftbythewickpin,trimthewick,andletitsitadayortwobeforedoingatestburn.

INTERMED IATE

MOLDEDPILLARCANDLESPillarcandlesarethelongestburningcandles.Evenshorter3"×4"(7.5cm×10cm)pillarcandleshavebeenknowntoburnforsixtyhoursormore,makingthemwellworththeinvestmentinbeeswax.

MATERIALS1lb(425g)beeswax

squarebraidwicking(try#3for2"(5cm)diameterand#5for3"(7.5cm)diametermolds)

pillarmolds

siliconemoldreleasespray

high-temperaturemetaltaper(orothersealersuchaswickputty)

beeswaxpouringpitcher

thermometer

heatgun

feltcloth(enoughtowraparoundeachofthemoldsonce)

Yield:2–3smallpillarsor1largepillar

1.Meltthebeeswaxinadoubleboilerorawaxmelter.Donotmeltbeeswaxdirectlyonthestovewithoutthewaterbath.Checkthetemperatureofthewaxoccasionallytomakesureitisn’tgettingtoohot.

2.Whilewaitingforthewaxtomelt,preparethemolds.Ifusingmetalmolds,spraytheinsidewithasiliconemoldreleasespray.

3.Mostpillarcandlemoldscomewithaholeatthebottomofthemoldtoinsertthewicking.Ifinditiseasiesttodipapartofmywickinginbeeswaxandletithardenbeforetrimmingthedippedendatanangletomakeiteasiertothreadthewickthroughtheholeandfarenoughintothemoldtoallowmetoretrieveitfromtheopenend.Apairofplierscanhelpwiththisifthemoldisabitdeeperthancanbeeasilyreachedbyhand.

4.Extendthewickaboutaninch(2.5cm)orsoabovethecandlemold.Useawoodendowel,toothpickorabobbypintoholdthewickinplaceandkeepitcentered.Wrapthewickingaroundthedowelandmakesureitistightinsidethemold,butnotstretchingthewick.You’llalsoneedtosealthespotwherethewickingextendsthroughthebottomofthemold.Thereareanumberofproductsthatcanbeusedforthis.Myfavoriteishigh-temperaturemetaltape,whichisavailableintheheatingsectionofhomeimprovementstores.

TIP:Isometimesuseanothersealercalledwickputty,amalleabledoughthatconformstothebottomofthemoldandsealsthemoldaroundthewick,preventingbeeswaxfromleakingout.

5.Wrapthemoldswithalayeroffeltclothandconfigurethemclosetogetherwithtallercandlesinthecenterandshortercandlesontheoutsidetomakepouringthewaxintothecandlemoldsquickandefficient.IliketodoadryrunwithmypouringpitchertomakesureIdon’thavetopourthehotwaxfromapointthatistoohighup.

6.Oncethemoldsareprepared,checkonthewax.Thetargettemperatureshouldbeintherangeof165°F–170°F(74°C–77°C).Ifitishotterthanthat,letitcoolabitbeforepouringintothemolds.

7.Beforepouringthehotwax,makesurethereisenoughwaxinthepouringpitchertofillthemoldcompletely.Ifthecandleispouredinseveralstages,thelinebetweenpourswillbevisible.

Useaheatguntoquicklywarmtheinsideofallthepillarmoldsandimmediatelypourthewaxintothewaitingmolds.Fillthemoldstoabouta1/2"(1.3cm)fromthetop.

FILLINGCAVITIES:Tocounteractthecavitythatformsaslargerpillarcandlescool,Imakeareliefholeorwidenanexistingholewithanailorpieceoftoothpick,thenIaddsomemeltedwaxtothehole.Itmaynotlooklikemuchofahole,butyoumaybesurprisedbytheamountofwaxneededtofillthespace.Repeatwithmorewaxifnecessarybeforeitcoolscompletely.

8.Thewaxwillcontractasitcools.Howevenlythewaxcontractsdependsontheambienttemperatureoftheroom.Coolertemperatureswillforcethetopofthecandletoskinoverandbecomeasolidmassbeforetherestofthecandlecancontractsufficiently.Theresultisacavityinsidethecandle.Thebiggerthewaxmass,thelongeritwilltakeforthecandletocoolandthegreaterthepotentialforalargecavity.Thiscanbedangerousifleftasis,sincethewickcanturnintoatorchwhenithitstheopencavity.

9.Allowthecandlestocoolcompletelybeforetryingtounmold.Iliketodothisthefollowingday,especiallyifitisalargerdiametercandle.

10.Tounmold,firstremovethetapeorwickputtyfromthebottomofthemold.Thenlightlytapthesideofthemoldagainstasoftsurface,rotatingthemoldwhiletapping.Oncethecandleisloosenedfromthemold,tuggentlyonthewickandremovethecandle.Ifitisn’tcooperating,don’tforceit.Putthewholeworksinthefreezerandletitcoolforanhourorso.Thentryagain.Thistrickshouldwork.Trimthewickflushatthebottomandto1/4inch(6mm)atthetop.

11.Thebottomofthecandlemaybebumpyanduneven.Iuseadedicatedelectricskillettomeltandflattencandlebottoms.Startwiththetemperatureoftheskilletonlowandseeifthewaxwillmelt.Electricskilletsvarybymanufacturer,soabitofexperimentationisnecessary.Iflowdoesn’tmeltthewax,increasethetemperatureuntilitstartstomeltthewaxrelativelyquickly.Placethecandleintheskilletandspinitsothatthehighpointsinthecandlebottombecomemoreevident.Failuretodothiswillresultinaleaningcandlethatwillburnunevenly.Oncethebottomissmoothedoutandeven,letitcoolslightlyandthencleanuptheedgeswithcleanfingers.

12.Nowthehardpart:waitingforthecandletocure.Waitatleastadayortwoforthecandlestocurebeforelightingthem.Thistimeframeallowsthebeeswaxmoleculestoalignandsettledown.Withpillarcandles,aburntestisimperativetomakesurethattherightwicksizeisused.Itsometimestakesfiveormoretriestogetthewickingright,sodon’tgetdiscouraged.Candlesthatarenotburningcorrectlyarenotawaste.Simplymeltthemdownthenexttimeyouaremeltingwax.Thewickisnotreusable.

HAND-DIPPEDCANDLESHand-dippedcandleshavebeenaroundforever,probablybecausetheyareeasytomake.Aleisurelyafternooncanyieldacoupledozenpassabletapers,especiallyiftheydon’thavetobeperfect.However,iftheperfecttaperisthegoal,thereisabitmorecraftinvolved.Iwillbeginwiththebasicsandthendelveintothedetailsofcreatingbeautifulcandles.

BEG INNER

HAND-DIPPEDTAPERCANDLESHand-dippedtapercandlesaremadefrompaper-thinsheetsofwaxthatareaddedonelayeratatimebydippingthewickrepeatedlyinhotwax.Mostregulartapercandleshavetwentyormorelayersofwax.

MATERIALSAtleast5lb(2.1kg)beeswax(approximately5oz[142g]perpairoftapers),includingsomesmallpiecesandwaxflakes

2/0or1/0squarebraidwicking

tallmeltingpotwithdoubleboiler

scissors

nutorbolttouseasweight

paintsticks

THEIMPORTANCEOFTHECONTAINERTomakehanddippedcandles,atallwaxmeltingcontainerisimportant.Thelengthofthefinishedcandleislimitedbythedepthofthewaxinthedippingcontainer.Acoffeecanisgreatcontainertouse,asitcanbefoundaroundthehouse.Theonlydisadvantagetousingacoffeecanisthatitwillprobablyonlyyielda3–4"(7.5–10cm)-longcandle.Tomaketallercandles,lookforataller,narrowmetalcontainer.Anasparaguspotorsomethingsimilarworkswell.Therearereallytalldippingpotsavailablecommercially,andIusedoneearlyon,butIhadaproblemkeepingthewaxhotfromthebottomtothetop.Tomaintainaconstantwaxtemperature,atallouterpotforthewaterbathisalsorequired.Itdoesn’tneedtobeastallasthedippingpot,butitshouldbeabletoholdwatertoaheightofatleasttwo-thirdsthelevelofthewax.

BEFOREYOUBEGINMakesurethereisplentyofwaxonhand.Rememberthateverytimethewickisdippedinthewax,waxisremovedfromthepot.Thismeansthatonceafewcandleshavebeendipped,thewaxleveldropsandcandleswillnotbeastallasthefirstonesmade.Toremedythisproblem,simplyaddmorewax.Iliketokeepsmallpiecesandflatwaxflakesonhandfortheseoccasions.Unlikebigblocksofwax,theymeltquicklyandkeeptheprocessofmakingcandlesmovingsmoothly.

Ifyouaredippingpairs,usethefollowinggeneralformulatocutthewicksintouseablelengths:

(Heightofdesiredfinishedcandle+2"[5cm]lossonthebottom+1"[2.5cm]lossontop+1/2"[1.3cm]forwiggleroom)×2.

Sotomake8"(20.5cm)finished-lengthcandles,cutthewickapproximately23"(58.5cm)long.

Intheaboveformula,Iallowedabitextratotieaweightsuchasawasherornuttothebottomofbothwicks.Thishelpskeepthewickstraightthroughsubsequentdippings,producingabeautiful,straightcandle.

Temperatureofthewaxisveryimportant.Ifthewaxistoohot,thecandlesdon’tbuildupproperlyorbuildupmoreatthetopthanatthebottom.Ifthewaxistoocool,thecandleswilllookbumpyandhaveanexaggeratedconeshape.Itisbesttoplayaroundwithdifferentdippingrhythms.Howthecandleslookwilldependonwaxcomposition,temperatureofthewax,temperatureoftheroom,andindividualstyle.Trydippingslowlyonthewaydownandpullingitbackoutquickly.Thentrytheopposite.Alsotryleavingitatthebottomforanextrasecondortwo.Seehowtheshapeofthecandle

changeswithacoupleofdips.Experimentationisthekey.

1.Prepareaplacetohangin-processcandleswhiletheycool.Iliketousepaintsticks,astheyarewideenoughtoallowthecandlestohangfarenoughaparttokeepthemfrombumpingintoeachotherandthesticksarelongenoughtoeasilyplacethemacrossaboxorbetweentwochairbacks,allowingthecandlestohangfreely.

2.Primealltaperwicksbydroppingagoodquantityofwickintohotwaxandlettingitabsorbcompletelybeforepullingitbackoutagain.Watchforthebubblesandoncetheystop,waitabitlongerandthenremovethewick.Asitstartstocool,untanglethemassandstarttostraightenitout.

TIPS:Saveallthetrimmings.Thewaxcanbemeltedoffandtheweightsreused.

Beeswaxisveryforgiving.Ifacandledoesn’tturnout,putitbackintothedippingvat.Oncethewaxhasmeltedoffthewicking,retrievethewickingandstartover.

3.Taketheprimedwickandusetheformulaabovetocuttothedesiredlength.Attachanutornailtotheendofeachendofthewickandbendthewickinhalfsothatbothsidesarethesamelength.

4.Makingsurethatthewickisasstraightaspossible,holdthewickatthebendanddipthewickintothewax.Thereisnoneedtodothisquickly.Idipthewickforabout3–4seconds—1seconddown,1–2secondsatthebottom,and1secondup.

5.Beforedoingthesubsequentdippings,Iliketowaituntilthewaxchangescolorslightly,approximately3–4minutes.IfIamdoingmultiples,IhanguponeandmoveontotheothersandbythetimeIhavecompletedoneroundwithallthewicks,thefirstisreadyforroundtwo.

6.Continuedippinguntilthecandleshavereachedabout75percentofthedesiredthickness.Waxcontractsasitcools,whichmeansthatafreshlydippedcandlemeasuring3/4"(2cm)willprobablybethinnerwhenitiscompletelycooled.Takethisintoaccountwhenmakingthecandles.Waitforthewaxtocoolabitlongerandtakeaverysharpknifeorscissorsandcutthenutofftheendofthewick.

7.Completeacouplemoredipstofinishthecandleandhanguptocoolcompletely.Ifthedippingvatisonthestovetop,makethelastdipaslightlyhotterone(around180°F[82°C]).Thisproducesasmootherandshiniercandle,enhancingtheoveralllookofthefinishedtaper.

BEG INNER

HAND-DIPPEDBIRTHDAYCANDLESBirthdaycandlescanbemadeinacoupledifferentways.Sincetheyaresimplyreallythintapercandles,theycanbemadeinthesameway,stoppingwhentheapproximatediameterreaches1/2"(6mm).ButIprefertomakethemlookmorelikethetraditionalbirthdaycandles—squaredoffatthetopandbottom—sothesecandlesaredippedfirsttoalongerlengthandthentrimmedtothedesiredlength.HereishowIdoit.

MATERIALSbeeswax

2/0or3/0wicking

scissors

ruler

Yield:10–15longercandles(5–7"[12.7–17.8cm])or25–30shortercandles(3–4"[7.6–10.1cm])

1.Cutandprimethewick,stretchingitoutaspertapers,page38.Thereisnoneedtobotherwithaweight,sincethesecandleswillonlybedipped6–8timestotal.

2.Dipthecandles5–6timesandmeasurethediameter.Ifitisclosetothethicknessdesired,dipanothertimeforgoodmeasureandletitcooluntilitjuststartstoturnfromthepastelyellowtothemoregoldcolor,butisstillabitwarmtothetouch.Withscissors,cutthewickjustaboveandbelowthedesiredlengthofthecandle.

3.Tomakethe7"(18cm)candlesshownabove,cutcandlesinto71/2"(19cm)sectionswithasharppairofscissors.

4.Rollthecutsectionsonthetabletopbetweentwosheetsofwaxedpapertostraightenandsmooththeimperfections.Thecandlesalsoneedtocoolabitmorebeforecontinuingtothefinaltrimming.

5.Measure7"(18cm)fromoneendofthecandleandwithasharpknife,cutintothebeeswaxwhilerollingittocutthewax,butnotthewick.Pullthelittlechunkofwaxoffthewickandthecandleiscompleted.

CHAPTER3BALMSANDBARSLipbalmisoneofthefirstthingsImadewithourownbeeswaxandforgoodreason.Beeswaxcanhelpprotectthelipsfromtheharmfulraysofthesun,hasapleasantsmell,anditcanhelppreventinfectionsandcoldsores.Inapinchitcanalsobeusedtomoisturizeotherbodypartssuchasroughelbowsorraggedcuticles.

Inthischapteryou’lllearnhowtomake

–Lipbalmsandgloss

–Solidlotionandmassagebars

–Cuticleandheelbalms

–Chestrub

–Nonpetroleumjelly

BEG INNER

BASICLIPBALMAlipbalminatubeneedstobestiffenoughtoholditsshapeandshouldnotmeltifkeptinapantspocket,yetwhenappliedtolips,itshouldglideoneasily.Pourthatsamelipbalmintoatin,anditwillprobablybetoostifftobepickedupwithafingerandappliedtothelips.Ipreferlipbalmintubes,andthefollowingrecipeisoneofmyfavorites.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 27g 30.00%

virgincoconutoil 26g 29.60%

sweetalmondoil 26g 29.70%

castoroil 1g 1.00%

lanolin 8g 9.30%

VitaminEoil 0.1g 0.10%

rosemaryoleoresinextract(ROE) 0.1g 0.10%

lip-safeflavoroil 0.2g 0.20%

woodenstirstickorkabobskewer

knife

digitalscale

doubleboiler

20lipbalmtubes

Yield:20tubes

1.Coarselychopthebeeswaxorusebeeswaxpastilles.Weightheingredients.Placethebeeswax,oils,andlanolinintoasmallpotorheat-safebowl.Gentlyheatinthetopofadoubleboileruntilthebeeswaxandoilshavemelted.

2.Oncemelted,removefromthedoubleboilerandaddessentialoilsandVitaminEoil,stirringwithastirstickorwoodenkebabskewertocombine.Whileitisstillhot,pourthemixtureintolipbalmtubes.Allowtocoolcompletelybeforeplacingcapsontothelipbalmcontainers.

BEG INNER

LIPBALMWITHBUTTERSHereisalovelyvariationthatincludescocoabutter.Cocoabuttercomesineitherthe“natural”scent,whichsomedescribeassomewhatchocolatelike,ordeodorized.Thereisnodifferencebetweenthetwo,exceptpersonalpreference.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 20g 21.64%

cocoabutter 20g 21.64%

sunfloweroil 45g 48.70%

lanolin 5g 5.41%

VitaminEoil 2g 2.16%

lip-safeflavoroil 12drops 0.44%

knife

digitalscale

doubleboiler

20lipbalmtubes

Yield:20tubes

1.Coarselychopthebeeswaxorusebeeswaxpastilles.Weighingredients.Placethebeeswax,butter,sunfloweroil,andlanolininasmallpotorheat-safebowl.Gentlyheatthemixtureinthetopofadoubleboileruntilthebeeswaxandbutterhavemelted.

2.Oncemelted,removefromthestovetopandaddessentialoilandVitaminEoil.Immediatelypourthemixtureintolipbalmcontainers.

3.Allowtocoolcompletelybeforeplacingcapsontothelipbalmcontainers.

BEG INNER

LIPGLOSSLipglossisgenerallyasofterbalmthatisstoredinajarortinratherthanatubeandusuallyhasingredientsthataddabitofshineaswell.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 10g 9.87%

castoroil 20g 19.74%

sweetalmondoil 30g 29.62%

sheabutter 25g 24.68%

cocoabutter 15g 14.81%

lipsafeflavoroil 0.3g 0.30%

knife

digitalscale

doubleboiler

lipglossjarsortins

Yield:Makestwelve1/4oz(7g)jars,orsix1/2oz(15g)tins

1.Coarselychopthebeeswaxorusebeeswaxpastilles.Weightheingredients.Placethebeeswax,butter,andoilsandputintoasmallpotorheat-safebowlandgentlyheatinthetopofadoubleboileruntilthebeeswaxandbuttershavemelted.

2.Oncemelted,removefromthestovetopandaddessentialoil.Immediatelypourthemixtureintolipglosscontainers.Allowtocoolcompletelybeforeplacingcapsontothelipglosscontainers.

SOLIDBODY-CAREBARSMuchlikelipbalms,solidbody-carebarsareverysimpletomake,butitcantakeawhiletoachievejusttherightcombinationofbutters,oils,andwaxforbothpersonalpreferenceandregionalweatherconditions—apersoninthetropics,forexample,maywantacompletelydifferentlotionthansomeoneintheArctic.Experimentationiskey.Myaimwhenmakingasolidlotionbaristofindabalancebetweenemolliencyandskinfeel.Let’sfaceit,solidlotionbarswillleaveskinfeelinggreasierthanaliquidlotion,sincethereisnowatertocutthegreasyfeeling,butwithagoodrecipe,thatgreasinesscanbesignificantlyreduced.

BEG INNER

SOLIDLOTIONBARSolidlotionbarsareananhydrousblendofbutters,oils,andwaxes,notemulsifiedproductsthatcontainalargepercentageofwater.

Thisblendyieldsabarthatcanbehandledeasilywithoutmakingamess,butmeltsoncontacttosootheandcreateanemollientbarrier.Althoughbutterssuchassheabutterandcocoabutterarewonderfulfortheskin,theydonotdirectlymoisturizetheskin.Themoistureneedstocomefromothersources,suchasthedampnessthatremainsafterhandwashing.Whenthesebuttersarepairedwiththebeeswax,however,theyworktogethertocreateanocclusivebarrierthatsealsinthatmoisture.Variousbuttersalsocontainfattyacidsthathelptonourishtheskin.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 27g 30.20%

virgincoconutoil 6g 6.90%

sweetalmondoil 12g 13.80%

jojobaoil 12g 13.80%

sheabutter 10g 10.50%

cocoabutter 12g 10.50%

mangobutter 5g 5.30%

VitaminEoil 0.1g 0.10%

rosemaryoleoresinextract(ROE) 0.1g 0.10%

scent 0.9g 1.00%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

woodenstirstick

clearplasticguestsoapmolds.(Theyholdabout1oz(28g)ofbalmeachandthecavitiesaresmallenoughthattheresultingbalmsfiteasilyintoatin.Muffintinscanalsobeusedbyfilling1"(2.5cm)deep.)

2–3oz(57–85g)shallowtins(optional,butanicetouch)

Yield:Makesapproximatelythree1oz(28g)lotionbars

1.Meltbeeswax,coconutoil,sweetalmondoil,andjojobatogetherinadoubleboileronlowtomediumheatuntilthebeeswaxiscompletelyliquefied.Addcocoabutterandmangobutterandmeltuntilliquefiedandthenremovefromheat.

2.Slowlyaddsmallpiecesofsheabuttertothemixtureandallowtomelt.

3.Afterthesheabutterhasmeltedintothemixture,addtheVitaminEoil,ROE,andscentandpourintomolds.

4.Putthemoldswiththelotionintothefreezerforabout15minutesandtheninvertthemoldontoacleanworksurface.Thesolidlotionbarsshouldcomeouteasilywithalighttap.

5.Placeonesolidlotionbarineachofthetins.

BEG INNER

MASSAGEBARThismassagebarisessentiallyasolidlotionmadewiththeoilsandbuttersthatworkwellformassage.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 56g 25%

cocoabutter 79g 35%

sesameoil 88g 39%

scent 2g 1%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

molds(clearplasticsoapmoldsormuffintinsworkwell)

tinswithcovers,largeenoughtoholdeachbar

Yield:Makesfour2oz(57g)bars

Withmassage,itismoreimportanttohaveenoughslipandadequateworkingtimeratherthanaproductthatdoesn’tfeelgreasyandabsorbsquickly.Iliketouseabutterthatcreatesbothahardbarandabarthatmeltsaroundbodytemperature,sococoabutterisastellarchoice.Moldtheseinnicelargepuckssothattheyareeasytouseandcancoverlargeareas.

1.Heatthebeeswaxwiththesesameoilinadoubleboileroverlowheatuntilmelted,thenaddthecocoabutter.

2.Oncethecocoabutterismelted,addscent,pourintomolds,andchillfor15minutesinthefreezer.

3.Unmoldthebarsontoacleanworksurfaceandplaceeachbarinatinorsomeothercontainertokeepthebarclean.

BEG INNER

CUTICLEBALMMycuticlestakeabeating,soIliketokeepcuticlebalmstashedthroughoutthehouseandcar,soitisavailabletomewheneverIremembertoapplyit.Thisbalmwillhelptokeepcuticleslookingnicewhileimprovingnailsatthesametime.Ilovetoincludelanolinandlecithininmycuticlebalm.Thesetwoingredientsactasbarriers,preventingnailsfromabsorbingtoomuchwater,andthephospholipidsinthelecithinkeepsthenailflexibleandlesspronetobreakage.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 29g 28%

mangobutter 32g 30%

soybeanoil 21g 20%

lanolin 10.5g 10%

lecithin 10.5g 10%

VitaminEoil 1g 1%

lemon5-foldessentialoil 0.3g .33%

pinkgrapefruitessentialoil 0.4g .34%

peppermintessentialoil 0.3g .33%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoon

20lipbalmtubes

Yield:Twenty1.5oz(42g)tubes

1.Heatthebeeswax,mangobutter,andsoybeanoiltogetherinadoubleboileruntilcompletelymelted.

2.Addthelanolin,lecithin,andVitaminEoil,andwhencompletelymeltedandmixed,addtheessentialoils.

3.Thiswillbeastiffmixturewhencooled,soIliketopouritintolipbalmtubes.Ifmoreofabalmlikeconsistencyisdesired,cutbackthebeeswaxto15percentandaddthedifferencetotheoils.

BEG INNER

HEELBALMMyheelsareespeciallypronetocracking,andapplyingthisheelbalmconsistentlyoveratwo-weekperiodalwaysdoesthetrick.Thisrecipehasemuoilinit,whichissupposedtopenetrateskinandhelptobringotheringredientsintotheskinaswell.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 29g 20%

sheabutter 51g 35%

coconutoil 36g 25%

emuoil 12g 8%

sweetalmondoil 14.5g 10%

VitaminEoil 1.5g 1%

peppermintessentialoil 0.7g .5%

lemon5-foldessentialoil 0.7g .5%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

woodenstirstick

delicup

largetwist-uptubes(Ilikeovalminideodoranttubes,but1/2oz[14g]lipbalmtubesworkaswell)

Yield:Five1oz(28g)tubes

1.Heatthebeeswax,sheabutter,andcoconutoiltogetherinadoubleboileruntilcompletelymelted.Removefromheat.

2.Addtheemu,sweetalmond,andVitaminEOil,stirringwithastirsticktoensureitisthoroughlymixedandalltheoilsarecompletelymelted.Letthemixturecoolslightlyandaddtheessentialoils.Stirtoincorporate.

3.Transferasmallportionofthebalmtothedelicupandreturntheresttothedoubleboilertostaywarm.Pinchthedelicuptoformapourspoutandpourthebalmintoatube.repeatuntilremainingtubesarefilled.Allowtocoolundisturbed.

4.Whenthebalmhascooled,addthecaps.

BEG INNER

CHESTRUBAlthoughchestrubscanbepurchasedcommercially,mostaremadewithpetrolatum.Myversionisasoftbalmrecipeutilizingessentialoilsthatimproverespiratorycongestion.Forveryyoungchildren,usehalftheamountofessentialoils.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 26g 23%

oliveoil 85g 75%

VitaminEoil 1g 1%

eucalyptusessentialoil 0.6g .5%

camphoressentialoil 0.5g .35%

birchessentialoil 0.1g .15%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoon

4salvecontainers,1-oz(28g)each

Yield:Makesapproximatelyfour1oz(28g)portions

1.Heatthebeeswaxandoliveoilinadoubleboileruntilmelted.

2.RemovefromheatandstirintheVitaminEoilandessentialoils.

3.Pourintosalvecontainers.

BEG INNER

NONPETROLEUMJELLYNonpetroleumJellyisaproductthatlooksandfeelsalotlikepetroleumjelly,butitismadewithnonpetroleumproducts.Castoroilandbeeswaxhaveasymbioticrelationship.Whenheatedbeeswaxiswhiskedintoheatedcastoroilandwhippedtoajellyconsistency,themixtureprovidesaprotectivebarriertotheskin,holdinginmoistureandhelpingtopreventchappingorirritation.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 9g 9%

castoroil 90g 90%

VitaminEoil 1g 1%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

pot

Yield:Makes100grams,orapproximatelytwo2oz(57g)jars

1.Meltthebeeswaxinadoubleboilerandwarmthecastoroilinaseparatepot.

2.AddthecastoroilandVitaminEoiltothemeltedwax,gentlywhippingthemixtureasitcools.Whenfinisheditshouldhaveajellylikeconsistency.

3.Packagejellyintojars.

CHAPTER4SALVES,CREAMS,ANDSCRUBSSalvesconsistofinfusedoils,beeswax,andattimes,essentialoils.Byusingherbsindifferentcombinations,youcanmakesalvesthatserveavarietyofpurposes.Makingsalvesfromscratchisnothard,butitcantakesometime.Keepinmindthathealingherbsaredelicate,andrequireagentlehand.Iliketotaketheslowmethodofroomtemperatureinfusiontoextractthe“goodstuff”fromtheherbs.Ifeelthisisthekindestandbestwaytoextractthehealingessences.Somepeoplewilluseheattospeeduptheprocess,andwithawatchfuleye,thiscanbedonesuccessfully,butitisveryeasytoscorchtheherbsandnegateanyhealingproperties.

Inthischapteryou’lllearnhowtomake

–Salves

–Jointandmusclebalm

–Emulsifyingsugarscrub

–Beeswaxcream

–Solidnaturalperfumes

BEG INNER

SALVEMASTERRECIPESincetheonlythingthatdifferentiatesonesalvefromanotheristheherbused,Iusethisamasterrecipeasabase,andI’veprovidedacoupleoffavoriterecipesthatutilizethatbaserecipe.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 40g 20%

liquidoil,infusedwithherb 158g 78.5%

VitaminEoil 2g 1%

essentialoilblend 1g .5%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoonorstirstick

4tins,2oz(56g)each

Yield:Makesenoughtofillapproximatelyfour2oz(56g)tins

1.Heatthebeeswaxandinfusedoilinadoubleboileruntilthebeeswaxiscompletelymelted.Takecarenottogettheoiltoohot,sothatthereisnodamagetotheoil.

2.Removefromheat,andaddVitaminEoilandessentialoils,ifdesired.

3.Stirtomixwellandpourintowaitingcontainers.Ifusingplasticjars,makesurethemixtureisn’ttoohotbeforepouringintojars,astheycandeformwithtoomuchheat.

BEG INNER

OILHERBALINFUSIONIliketousethe“simplers”methodtoinfusemyoils,meaningthattherecipeisbasedonratios,andmeasurementsarereferredtoas“parts.”Thissimplewayofmeasurementallowstheformulatortomaketherecipeinanyvolumedesired.

MATERIALSherbsofyourchoice

high-qualityextravirginoliveoil

VitaminEoil

canningjarwithlid

BEFOREYOUBEGINForsalves,useahigh-qualityoil,suchasextravirginoliveoil.Itiswonderfulforskinallonitsownanditismadeevenbetterwiththeadditionofherbs.Otheroilstotryaregrapeseedoil,sweetalmondoil,andapricotseedoil.Foreachofmyrecipes,Iwillsuggestanoil.Whileitisnotnecessarytousethatoil,understandthattheoilwaschosenforwhatitbringstothetable.

Manyherbscanbeusedinoilinfusions.Thecombinationsarelimitedonlybytheimagination.Irecommend,however,thatonlydriedherbsareused.Itisespeciallyimportanttouseherbsthatarecompletelydry,asanymoisturewithintheoilwillspoilthebatch.Ifthematerialsarenotcompletelydry,bacteriawillflourish,resultinginamoldy,unusableproduct.

Fortheactualinfusion,mypreferredvesselisacanningjar.Itisdurable,hasalid,andcomesinavarietyofsizes.

1.Addherbstothejarandthenpourthechosenoilovertheherbsuntiltheyarecompletelysubmerged,leavingalittleairspaceatthetop,tohelpmixthingswhenthejarisinverted.

2.Coverthejartightlyandplaceinawarmspot.Lettheherbsinfuseforabouttwoweeks,gentlymixingtheblendbycarefullyinvertingthejar.

3.Forastrongeroil,addafreshbatchofherbsandletinfusefortwomoreweeks.Straintheoil.

4.AddVitaminEoilat1percentoftheoiltoretardrancidityandprolongshelflife.Keepthestrained,infusedoilinacooldarkplaceuntilneeded.

BEG INNER

ALL-PURPOSESALVEThisismyfavoritesalve.Icallitmybasicfirst-aidsalve.Itworksreallywellatsoothingandhealingminorcutsandscrapes.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usinginfusedliquidoilwiththefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

1partcalendulablossoms

1partlavenderblossoms

1partcomfreyleaf

1partplantainleaf

1partchickweedleaf

OILS

equalpartsoliveandgrapeseed

ESSENTIALOILS

lavenderorlavandin

BEG INNER

CRACKEDSKINSALVEWhenwinterravagesskin,thissalvecanbeasavior.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usingthefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

2partscalendulablossoms

1partplantainleaf

1partSt.John’sWort

OIL

olive

ESSENTIALOILS

1partpineneedle

1partGermanchamomile

1partlavender

1partteatree

BEG INNER

BURNSALVEMinorburnscaneasilybetreatedwiththislovelysalve.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usingthefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

1partcalendulablossoms

1partplantainleaf

1partlavender

OIL

olive

ESSENTIALOIL

lavender

BEG INNER

ITCHSOOTHERItchescomeinmanyforms.Thissalveisgreatforinsectbitesandotherskinconditionsthatcauseitchyskin.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usingthefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

2partschickweed

2partschamomile

2partscalendulablossoms

1partthyme

1partcomfreyroot

1partmarshmallowroot

OILS

3partsolive

1partcastor

ESSENTIALOILS

3partslavender

3partshelichrysum

1partpeppermint

BEG INNER

ROSEBUDSALVEInadditiontosmellinggreat,thissalveworkswellformoisturizingelbowsandtamingfly-awayhair.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usingthefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

OrganicRosebuds

OIL

olive

ESSENTIALOIL

roseabsolute

BEG INNER

WOODWORKER’SSALVEInadditiontohealingskin,thissalvealsohelpstopullwoodormetalsplinterstothesurfaceoftheskin.SimplyfollowthedirectionsfortheSalveMasterRecipeonpage56,usingthefollowingingredients.

MATERIALSHERBS

2partschickweed

2partsplantain

2partscomfreyleaf

2partsrosemary

pinchbentoniteclay

OIL

oliveoil

ESSENTIALOIL

lavender

BEG INNER

ICYJOINT&MUSCLEBALMThissoothingbalm,madeupofnaturalvegetableoilsandbeeswax,providesabaseforthecoolingtherapeuticmentholcrystalsandablendoftherapeuticessentialoils.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 30g 25%

cocoabutter 6g 5%

extravirginoliveoil 26g 21.5%

almondoil 22g 18%

castoroil 24g 20%

mentholcrystals 10g 8%

VitaminEoil 0.6g .5%

eucalyptusdivesessentialoil 0.7g .6%

rosemaryessentialoil 1g .8%

camphoressentialoil 0.6g .5%

teatree,Australianessentialoil 0.1g .1%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

woodenstirstick

1-oz(27g)tins

Yield:Four1oz(28g)portions

Irecommendstoringitin1oz(27g)containerssotheycaneasilybetossedintoagymbagorcarriedtothejobsitewheretheycanprovideconvenientandinstantrelieffromnaggingmuscleachesandpain.

1.Warmalltheoils,mentholcrystals,andbeeswaxinadoubleboileroverlow-mediumheat,stirringuntilallsolidsaremeltedordissolved.

2.Removefromheatandallowtocoolslightly.Addtheremainingingredients.

3.Pourinto1oz(27g)tinsandallowtocoolcompletely.

VARIATIONIfdesired,thisalsoworkswellinlargelipbalmtubes.Additionalbeeswaxmaybeneededtoachievetherightconsistencyforstickapplication.

INTERMED IATE

EMULSIFYINGSUGARSCRUBIloveagoodscrub.Althoughthereareoil-basedscrubsavailable,Ihonestlyfindthatwithoutanemulsifier,theyleavealayerofoilonmyskinthatIfeelinclinedtoscrapeoff.

Asanalternativetooil-basedscrubs,tryanemulsifiedscrub,whichbasicallyturnsintoalotionwiththeadditionofwaterfromthebathorshower,leavingtheskinmoisturizedbutnotgreasy.

NOTE:Althoughthisrecipedoesnotcontainwater,Ihaveincludedapreservativetopreventbacteriagrowthinthescrub.Sincethescrubisusedaroundwater,thelikelihoodofwaterbeingintroducedisveryhigh.

MATERIALS

saffloweroil 120g 12%

sweetalmondoil 100g 10%

cocoabutter 60g 6%

mangobutter 60g 6%

E-waxNF 40g 4%

yellowbeeswax 7.5g .75%

scent 7.5g .75%

Optiphen 5g .5%

VitaminEoil 5g .5%

sugar,granulated 595g 59.5%

kitchenscale

doubleboiler

spoon

thermometer

smallmixingbowl

handmixerwithwhiskattachmentorstandmixer

four8oz(227g)jarswithlids

Yield:Approximatelytfour8oz(227g)jars

1.Weighsaffloweroil,sweetalmondoil,cocoabutter,mangobutter,emulsifyingwax,andbeeswaxandaddtoadoubleboiler.

2.Heatuntileverythingiscompletelymelted,stirringoccasionally.

3.Whenthetemperatureofthemeltedmixturereaches120°F(49°C),addOptiphenpreservative,VitaminEoil,andscentblend.Stir.

4.Transfermixturetoasmallmixingbowlandplaceintherefrigeratortocooltoaround80°F(27°C).

5.Removeandwhipusingahandmixerwithwhiskattachmentsorstandmixer.Whiskuntilitlookslikepudding.

6.Addsugarandwhiskuntilwellincorporated.Pourintojarsandallowtosetup.

ADVANC ED

BEESWAXCREAMI’llbehonest.Iwasveryclosetonotincludinganykindofemulsifiedlotionorcreamusingbeeswax.Why?Becauseitisaverydifficultproducttomakesuccessfullywiththetoolsthatarereadilyavailabletothehomecrafter.Commercialoperationsusefancyhomogenizerstomixtheingredientsatveryspecifictemperatures,achievingaproductthatlooksandfeelsgood,isstable,andwillnotseparateovertime.

Havingsaidthat,thereareproductsthatcanbemadethatutilizebeeswaxasathickener,insteadofrelyingonthebeeswaxtohelpwiththeemulsificationsystem.Thisrecipeforanallaroundbodycreamisagreatstartingpoint.Ithasaniceskinfeel,absorbsquickly,anddoesn’tfeeltoogreasy.Tomakeamorespecializedcream,theoilsandbuttersinPhaseBcanbeswappedouttomakesomethingthatworksfortheapplicationinmind.Ifthesameconsistencyisdesired,trytokeepthepercentageofbuttersandoilsthesame.Donotchangetheproportionofemulsifiertowax.

MATERIALS

PHASEA

distilledwater 260g 56.5%

honey 9g 2%

PhaseB

E-waxNF 23g 5%

StearicAcid 23g 5%

yellowbeeswax 23g 5%

mangobutter 23g 5%

coconutoil 69g 15%

lanolin 9g 2%

VitaminEoil 14g 3%

PhaseC

Optiphen 5g 1%

scent 2g .5%

2heatproofquartsizecanningjars

doubleboiler

digitalscale

thermometer

immersionblender

four4oz(113g)jarswithlids

bowllargeenoughtouseforcoldwaterbath

Yield:Four4oz(113g)jars

BEFOREYOUBEGINTheheatandholdprocessreferredtointhefollowinginstructionssimplymeansthatyoushouldheatthemixturetothetemperatureindicatedandhold—ormaintain—thattemperatureforthetimeprovided.Thisensuresthatthewaterphaseremainshotenoughforalongenoughtimetokilloffwhateverpathogensmightbeinthewaterandtocompletelymeltparticlesintheoilphase.

1.Inapan,combinetheingredientslistedinPhaseA.Inaseparatepan,combinethePhaseBingredients.

2.PlacethetwopansintoadoubleboilerandheatandholdbothphaseAandPhaseBinseparatecontainersatatemperatureof158°F(70°C)for20minutes.

3.PourPhaseBintoPhaseAandcombine,usinganimmersionblenderonhigh.Placethejarinacoldwaterbathtohelpcoolthemixturedownquickly,continuingtoblendonhighuntilthemixturereachesatemperatureof104°F(40°C).

4.AddphaseC.ContinuemixingonlowuntilphaseChasbeenthoroughlyincorporated,takingcarenottolifttheimmersionblenderup,whichwillincorporateair.Pourintofour4oz(113g)jars.

SOLIDNATURALPERFUMESIlovecreatingwithessentialoilsandforme,makingperfumesisparticularlyrewardingwhenIamabletoachievesomethingthatisbetterthatthesumofitsparts.

MyfirstexposuretosolidperfumeswaswhenItouredaperfumehouseinGrasse,France.Iwantedtogohomewithsomethingfuntoremindmeofmytrip,soIboughtasix-packofsolidperfumes.TheseperfumesendedupbeingsomeofmyfavoritesouvenirsfromFrance.Ilovethetactileandsensuousnatureofsolidperfumes.WhenIstartedcreatingperfumesmyself,solidperfumeswerefirstonmylist.

Awell-madenaturalperfumestrikestheperfectbalancebetweentopnotes,heartnotes,andbasenotes.Thosewhoareunfamiliarwith100percentnaturalperfumeswillbeamazedatthecomplex“story”eachperfumesrelates.Thetopnotesarethefirstonesto“speak,”andareusuallymostexuberant.Whenthetopnoteshavecalmeddownabit,theheartnoteskickintocontinuetellingthebulkofthestory.Thebasenotesareheardfromlast,butoncetheyarenoticed,therealizationhitsthattheyhavebeenthereallalong.Thebasenotesaretheworkhorsesoftheperfumeandareresponsibleforitsoverallcharacterandstayingpower.Solidperfumesaretobeappliedtopulsepointsand,unliketheirspraycounterparts,areintendedforadiscreetaudience.

Creatingaperfumeisnotaleisurelyafternoon’sactivity.Perfumesneedtimetomarryandmeldandcansometimestakeayearormoretofinishitsmagic.TherecipesIhaveincludedherearebestlefttomarryforacouplemonths,buttheywillbereadytouseinlessthanayear.

Althoughtheseperfumerecipescanbemadeinanoiloralcoholbase,thescentofthenaturalbeeswaxinthisrecipebecomesauniquepartoftheperfumeblend.

Ishouldnotethatthefollowingrecipeswillalsoworkwithfragranceoils.Fragranceoilscanalsobeblended,butkeepinmindthatbynaturetheoilsarealreadyablendofdifferentnotes.Before

addingfragranceoilstoyourperfumes,besuretocheckthemanufacturer ’srecommendedsafetylevelsforskinapplication.

BEG INNER

SOLIDPERFUMEBASEBALMRECIPEIliketomakeupalargerquantityofmySolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipeandthenjustwarmtheamountIneedfortheparticularcontainerIamfilling.Thereareendlesspossibilitiesforcontainersforthesesignatureperfumes,fromsmalljarstolocketsthatcanbewornaroundtheneck,releasingscent.Therecipeforthisbaseisharderthanmysalvebase,sincetheideaistopickupjustalittlebitwhenthefingerisrubbedacrossthesurface.

MATERIALS

liquidcarrieroil(jojobaorfractionatedcoconutoil) 60g 60.00%

yellowbeeswax 40g 40.00%

heat-proofglassmeasuringcup

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoon

plasticstoragecontainerwithlid

Yield:Makesenoughtofillapproximately61/2oz(14g)jars

1.Addthecarrieroilandthebeeswaxtoasmall,heat-proofglassmeasuringcupandwarminadoubleboiler,takingcarenottooverheatthemixture.

2.Stirwelltocombineandpourintoastoragecontaineruntilneeded.

INTERMED IATE

SOLIDPERFUMEMASTERRECIPEIhavewrittentheserecipesinparts.Whenexperimentingwiththeblends,useonlydropsinsteadofpartsandplaceintoasmallbottleorvialforacoupleweekstoallowthescentstomeld.

MATERIALS

solidperfumebase 17g 85%

essentialoilblend 3g 15%

digitalscale

smalldelicup

woodenstirstick

microwave

4–5lipbalmtubesor2–3slidetins

Yield:Makesapproximately4–5lipbalmtubesor2–3slidetins

Thebestwaytotestthescentofaperfumeblendistouseperfumetesterstrips.Caution,sincethisisanundilutedessentialoilblend,donottrythisdirectlyonskin.Iuse140-poundacidfreewatercolorpaperandcutitintothinstripsthatfitintomyessentialoilblendvialorbottle.Dipthestripintotheessentialoilblendandsniffitat5minutes,30minutes,2hours,and5hours.Writedownyourimpressionsoftheperfumeatthevariousintervals.Notethechangesthatthescentundergoesoverthecourseoftime.Lettheperfumemeldforanotherweekandtryagain.

1.Tomakeaperfume,simplycutaportionofthesolidperfumebaseofftheblockwithasharpknife.

2.Addthedesiredamountofsolidperfumebasetothedelicupandmeltinshortspurtsinthemicrowave.Itshouldmelteasilyin20–30seconds.Donotoverheat.

3.Addtheessentialoilblend,stirtoincorporate,andpourintotheperfumecontainer.

4.Letitsitinplaceuntilcool.Addthecapandenjoy.

INTERMED IATE

PERFUMEESSENTIALOILBLENDSHereareafewgreatblendstotry.Feelfreetotweakandadjustasdesired.Oncetheperfectblendisachievedonthescentstrip,testonskin,sinceeveryperson’sskinchemistryaltersthescentslightly.Totrytheblendonskin,addadropoftheessentialoilblendtoabout10–15dropsofacarrieroilandapplytotheskin.Ihopeyoufindonethatyoulike!

BLEND1

TOPNOTESFennelEO*SweetOrangeEO

2parts5parts

HEARTNOTE Roseabsolute 3parts

BASENOTE MyrrhEO 2parts

BLEND2

TOPNOTESTangerineEOBergamotEOLavenderEO

6parts6parts9parts

HEARTNOTESClarySageEONutmegEOylangylangEO

15parts8parts11parts

BASENOTE patchouliEO 14parts

BLEND3

TOPNOTE LavenderEO 20parts

HEARTNOTE ChamomileEO 2parts

BASENOTE BenzoinEO 1part

BLEND4

TOPNOTE BergamotMintEO 5parts

HEARTNOTESSpruceEOCypressEO

10parts5parts

BASENOTESBenzoinresinCedarwoodEOVetiverEO

3parts4parts3parts

BLEND5

TOPNOTE SweetOrangeEO 4parts

HEARTNOTESCorianderEOJuniperEO

3parts3parts

BASENOTE FrankincenseEO 1part

BLEND6

TOPNOTE BergamotEO 3parts

HEARTNOTES PalmarosaEO 2parts

RoseAbsolute 2parts

BASENOTE SandalwoodEO 4parts

BLEND7

TOPNOTESBergamotEOLavenderEO

2parts2parts

HEARTNOTE ClarysageEO 2parts

BASENOTESHelichrysumEOVanillaAbsolute

4parts1part

*EssentialOil

CHAPTER5SOAPSSoap,whichhasbeenaroundforever,isoneoflife’sbasicnecessities.Whiletheactualoriginofsoapisunclear,weknowthatforthepast5,000years,peoplehavebeencombiningalkalinesaltwithfatstomakesoap.TheSumerianscreatedaslurrybycombininganimalandvegetablefatswithashesandboilingthemixture.AncientEgyptianslaterwroteaboutsoaprecipesthatcalledformixturesoffatsandalkalinesalts.TheRomanswereusingbarsoapintheirbathsby200CE.

Themaindifferencebetweenthesoapsweusetodayandwhatpeopleusedwaybackwhenisthatoursoapsarereliablygentleontheskinandconsistentfromonebatchtothenext.Thisisbecausenowweknowaboutthechemicalreactionthattakesplacetocreatesoapandweknowhowtocreatelye—amainingredientinsoap—thatisofaknownpurity,whichensuresresultsthatcanbeeasilypredictedandduplicated.Wealsohavemoderntoolssuchasdigitalscalesandimmersionblendersthathelpwiththetask,buttheessentialshavenotchangedforthepast5,000years.

Inthischapteryou’lllearn

–Soap-makingbasics

–Soap-makingequipment

–Coldandhotprocesses

FAT+LYE=SOAPWithoutlye,thereisnosoap.Lyeisrequiredtocreatethechemicalreactionthatproducessoap.Whenasoaprecipeiscalculatedcorrectly,nolyeremainsinthefinalproduct.Allthelyeisconvertedtoasalt.

Whyputbeeswaxinsoap?Beeswaxhelpsmakethesoapemollientandcreatesahardbarthatlastslongerintheshower.Thebiggestmistakethatmostbeginnersmakeisaddingtoomuchbeeswax,whichcreatesabarthatfeelsrubberyandabitgummy.Butaddingjustalittlebitofbeeswax,say1to2percentofaddedoils,improvesthebarconsiderably.

Sincebeeswaxisnotanoil,notallofthewaxwillreactwiththelye.Beeswaxcontainsabout50percentunsaponifiables.Unsaponifiablesarethesubstancesinbeeswaxthatdonotreactwiththelye.Theunsaponifiablesmaybesubstancesthathelpdecreasethetracetimeinrecipesusingbeeswax,butarealsoprobablythesubstancesthatmakeasoapnicefortheskin.

Iconsiderusingbeeswaxinsoaptobeanadvancedsoap-makingtechnique.Themainreasonisthatbeeswaxhasameltingtemperatureofatleast145°F(63°C),whilemostsoapsaremadeatatemperaturethatisquiteabitcoolerthanthat,atsay100°F(38°C).Theoilsandlyeneedtobecombinedatahighertemperaturetoensurethatthebeeswaxremainsmelted.Thehighertemperatureswillmakethesoapsaponifymorequickly,whichcouldresultinafailedbatchifyou’renotcareful.

Forbeginningsoapmakers,Ihaveincludedabeeswax-freestarterrecipethatcanbemadeeasilywithoilsfoundatmostgrocerystores.Istronglyurgepeoplewhohavenotmadesoapbeforetomakethestarterrecipefirst—tobecomefamiliarwiththeprocessandgainanunderstandingofthedifferentstagesthesoapgoesthrough.Oncethebasicsoap-makingtechniquesaremastered,thecoldprocessorhotprocesssoaprecipesthatfollowwillbelessdauntingandyou’remorelikelytomakeasuccessfulbatchofsoap.

EachoilusedinsoapmakinghasaSaponificationRatiovalue,alsoknownastheSAPvalue,whichistheamountoflyeneededtoconvertthatoilintosoap.Sinceeachoilhasadifferentvalue,donotmakeanyoilsubstitutionswithoutrecalculatingtheamountoflyeneededfortheoilyouareconsidering.Theamountoflyeneededcanbecalculatedbyhandorusinganonlinecalculator.Irecommendrunningeveryrecipethroughalyecalculator,regardlessofthesource.Therecipecouldhaveinadvertenterrorsliketransposednumbersorincorrectunits.Itisalsonicetohaveapapercopytocheckoffingredientsastheyareaddedandaddnotesonscentorcolor.Usingthelyecalculatoralsoallowsforresizingarecipetofitaparticularmold.Therearefreeweb-basedlyecalculatorsthatwillcalculatetheamountoflyeneededandallowtheusertoprintouttherecipe.Somecalculatorshavepredictivevaluesforhardnessandlatherthatareusefulwhencreatingrecipesfromscratchortweakingrecipestofittheingredientsonhand.

Althoughitispossibletomakeasoapwithjustoneoil,therearereasonsthatmostsoapmakersusemorethanone.Eachoilhasadifferentbreakdownofessentialfattyacidsthatbringdifferentpropertiestothesoap.Coconutoilisreallyhighinlauricacid,yieldingasoapthatmakesloadsofbubbles,willdissolvereallyquickly,andisverycleansing(tooharshformostpeopleifusedinhighproportion).Oliveoil,ontheotherhand,whichisloadedwitholeicacid,makesasoapthathasmoreofacreamylather(thatalmostfeelsslimyifnotproperlyaged),issupergentleontheskinandoncefullycured,ishardasabrick.Mostoftheotheroilswillfallsomewherebetweencoconutandoliveoil.Intheingredientglossary,IhaveincludedprofilesforalltheoilsIuseinthisbookplusacouplemorethatmightmakenicesubstitutions.

SOAP-MAKINGEQUIPMENTSoap-makingequipmentonlyhasacouplerequirements.First,ifusingmetal,ONLYusestainlesssteel.Thelyewillreactwithothermetals.Second,neveruseglasstomixthelye.Overtime,thelyewillcreateminutecracksandscrapesintheglass,eventuallycausingittoshatter,potentiallyspillinghot,causticlyewaterallovertheplace.

Useadisposablepaperplateorbowltomeasurethedrylye.Thismakesclean-upeasy.Lyecrystalscanhavequiteabitofstaticelectricityandtheindividualbeadscanescape.Takecarewhenmeasuringandgiveallsurfacesaquickwipedownoncethelyeisinwater.

Irecommendusinganimmersionblender(A)tomixthelyewiththeoils.Immersionblendersareavailableatbigboxstoresatreasonablepricesandtheyhelptoensurethatthesoapbatterismixedproperly.Theimmersionblenderhasahighshearbladethatmixesthesoapeasilyandreliably.Ahandwhisk(B)orspooncanalsobeused,butitwilltakequiteabitlonger.

Formixingthesoap,Iliketousestainlesssteelstockpots,bowls(C)orplasticbuckets.Asmall,flat-bottomedmopbucketworksreallywell,sinceitisdurableenoughtowithstandsomewarmertemperaturesandisnottootall,allowingthesoapmakertouseanimmersionblenderorwhiskwithease.Amopbucketalsohasahandle,whichisusefulfortransferringthesoapbattertothemold.

Soapmoldscanbeassimpleasalinedcardboardbox(D)orascomplicatedasanornatesiliconemold,witheverythinginbetween.Therecipesinthisbookaresizedforaregularbreadloafpan(Ilikesilicone,whichdoesn’tneedtobelined),whichyieldsapproximatelyeightbarsofsoap.Forliningsoapmolds,Ipreferfreezerpaper.Linethemoldswiththeshiny,coatedsidefaceup,restingagainstthesoap.Tolineamoldorbox,cuttwopiecesoffreezerpaperandlaythemintheboxinoppositedirections,makinganicecrispcornerwherethebottommeetsthesidesandleavingtheextrafoldedoverthesidesofthebox.Therewillbeaslightgapatthecorners,wherethetwopiecesoffreezerpapermeet,butIhavenotfoundthattobeaproblemaslongasthesoapispouredintothemoldatthepropertime.

Adigitalscale(E)isimperativefortheserecipes,asallingredientsaremeasuredingrams.Reasonablypricedscalescanbefoundatanybig-boxstore.Measuresolidingredientsonapieceoffreezerpaperandliquidingredientsinplasticdelicontainers(alwaysremembertozeroouttheweightofthecontainerbeforeaddingingredients).

PROTECTIVEGEARLyerequiresseveralitemsbeusedforpersonalandenvironmentalsafety.Incrystalform,lyecanbeannoying,butitisrelativelyharmless.Itcandevelopastaticchargethatcausesthelyetoendupfarfromitsoriginalcontainer.Onceithasbeendissolvedinwater,itismuchmorecaustic,butlesslikelytocreateproblemssincetheliquidiseasiertomanipulatesafely.

Clothingshouldbethefirstlevelofprotection.Wearalong-sleeveshirt,longpants,andclosed-toeshoes.Ontopofthat,glovesandgoggleshelpkeepyourhandsandeyesprotectedfromerrantlyecrystalsandfromrawsoapmix.Next,whenthelyeisbeingaddedtowater,thereactiongivesoffsomefumesthatcanbeirritatingandarebetternotbreathedin.Iliketomixthelyeintowateroutsidewherethefumesaren’taproblem,butforthosewhoprefertodothisintheirsoapingspace,Irecommendtheuseofarespirator.Itisnotneededfortherestofthesoap-makingprocess.

INTERMED IATE

STARTERRECIPE(NOBEESWAXORHONEY)

MATERIALS

oliveoil(Ipreferpomacegrade) 312g 36.7%

coconutoil(76°F[24°C]) 227g 26.7%

Crisco(“palm”recipe,seenote) 283g 33.3%

castoroil 28g 3.3%

distilledwater 323g

lye(NaOH—sodiumhydroxide) 117g

fragrance(ifdesired) .43g

disposablepaperbowl

containerforlye(seeSoap-MakingEquipment,page73)

liquidmeasuringcup

stockpotormicrowave-safecontainer

stainlesssteelstockpotorflat-bottomedmopbucket

stainlesssteelwhiskorimmersionblender

digitalscale

largeplasticcookingspoon

chef’sknife

mold(siliconebreadloafpanpreferred,butanymoldwilldo)

freezerpaper(ifloafpanisnotsilicone)

pieceofcardboard,cuttothesizeoftheloafpan

Yield:Approximatelyeight4oz(113g)bars

BEFOREYOUBEGINThefirstthingIliketodowhenImakesoapistogatherallmyingredientstogetherandputthemonmytableintheorderinwhichtheyappearintherecipe.Idothisfortworeasons.First,IcanchecktomakesurethatIhaveenoughofallmyingredientstoactuallymakethesoap.It’sbettertorealizethatthereisnocastoroilbeforemakingsoap,ratherthanrightinthemiddleofsoapmaking.Secondly,Icangrabtheoilsinorderandcheckthemoffonmyprintedrecipe.IthelpstoensurethatImeasureoutthecorrectamounts.

NOTE:IspecificallycallforCriscoinsteadofgenericvegetableshortening,sinceCrisco’sSaponificationRatio(SAP)isknownbythelyecalculatorsandtheproportionsofoilsinthevegetableshorteningblendmaybedifferentwithotherbrands.Also,Criscochangedtheirformulaseveralyearsbackandversioncommonlyfoundonstoreshelvesismadewithpalmoil.ChecktheingredientslistingontheCriscopackagetomakesureitincludespalmoil.

1.Alwaysmakethelyesolutionfirst,asitrequirescoolingtime.Measurethelyeintoadisposable

paperbowlandsetaside.

2.Measureoutthecorrectamountofdistilledwaterandpourintothelye-safecontainer.Placethecontaineronahighheat-resistantsurfaceandaddthedrylyecrystalstothewater(nevertheotherwayaround).Stirwithaplasticcookingspoonuntilallthelyeiscompletelydissolved.Setthelyemixtureasidetocool.

3.Preparethemold,liningwithfreezerpaperwiththeshinysidefaceup.

4.Heatallthesolidoilsinastockpotonthestovetoporinthemicrowaveinaheat-safecontainer.Oncemelted,pourtheoilsintothemixingcontainer,eitherastockpotoraflat-bottomedmopbucket.Addtheliquidoilsandstirtomix.

5.Checkthetemperaturesofthelyeandtheoils.Ideally,bothshouldbearound100°F(38°C).Ifthetemperaturesarehigher,letitcooldownabitmore.

6.Tomakethesoap,pourthelyewaterintotheoilsandmixwiththeimmersionblender(A).Noticehowthemixturechangesfromtransparenttomilky.Continuemixinguntilthesoapreachesastagecalled“trace.”Youwillknowthatyouareatthetracestagewhenyoupulltheimmersionblenderoutofthesoapmixtureanditleavesavisibletrailinthetopofthesoap(B).Iliketotakemysoaptoamediumtoheavytrace,whichisalmosttheconsistencyofasoftpudding.Dependingonthetemperatureoftheoilandlyeandthespeedoftheimmersionblender,theactualmixingportionshouldnottakethatlong,maybefivetotenminutes.

7.Ifthisisyourfirsttimemakingsoap,Irecommendnotaddinganycolororscent.Butoncetherecipeismorefamiliar,thiswouldbethetimetoaddthoseingredients.

8.Pourthesoapbatterintothepreparedmold.Scrapeoutthesoappotandtapthesoapmoldonthecounteracoupletimestomakesuretherearenoairpockets.Smoothoutthetopandcoverthemoldwithapieceofcardboardtoholdinsomeoftheheat.

NOTE:Whenusinghoney,beeswax,oranykindofmilk,thoseingredientscancausethesoaptogethotterthannormalanditmaynotbenecessarytocoverthemold.

9.Allowthesoaptositforseveralhours.Sincesoapmakingisanexothermicchemicalreaction,thesoapwillheatupinthenextcouplehoursandgofromwhatlookslikeanicecreamysoapintosomethingresemblingpetroleumjellyanditwillbeHOT.That’swhatiscalledthe“gel”phase.While

it’snotcompletelynecessaryforabatchofsoaptogothroughgel,Ithinkitmakesforabetter,moreconsistentendproduct.

10.Afterabouttwenty-fourhours,thesoapshouldbecool,relativelyhard,andreadytounmoldandslice.Ifitstillseemsabitsoft,leaveitinthemoldabitlongerandcheckitagainafteranotherdayorso.Onceitseemshardenough,usethechef’sknifetocutthesoapintoindividualbars,keepinginmindthatthereisstillquiteabitofwaterinthesoapthatwillevaporateovertime,causingthebartoshrinkabit.Setthecutbarsonsomefreezerpaperwithabitofairspacebetweenthemandsetthemsomewhereoutofthewaytodryandcure.Curetimeisatleastonemonth.

ADVANC ED

HONEYANDBEESWAXSOAP(COLDPROCESSRECIPE)Oncethebasicrecipehasbeenmastered,itistimetoaddsomegoodiessuchasbeeswaxandhoney.Thebeeswaxwillmakeaharderbarandthehoneywillboostlatherandprovidesomemoisturizingbenefits.

MATERIALS

oliveoil 358g 44.8%

coconutoil(76°F[24°C]) 225g 28.1%

palmoil 177g 22.2%

castoroil 32g 4.0%

beeswax 7.2g 0.9%

distilledwater 276g 9oz

lye(NaOH—sodiumhydroxide) 111g

honey 1tbsp

fragrance(ifdesired) 2tbsp

disposablepaperbowl

containerforlye(seeSoap-MakingEquipmentp73)

largeplasticspoonorhighheatspatula

stainlesssteelpotormicrowave-safecontainerforoils

stainlesssteelwhiskorimmersionblender

digitalscale

mold(siliconebreadloafpanpreferred,butanymoldwilldo)

freezerpapertolinemold

Yield:Approximatelyeight4oz(113g)bars

1.Gatheralltheingredientstogetherandarrangethemonthetableintheorderinwhichtheyappearintherecipe.

2.Alwaysmakethelyesolutionfirst,asitrequirescoolingtime.Measurethelyeintoadisposablepaperbowlandsetaside.

3.Measureout5oz(140g)ofdistilledwaterandpourintothelye-safecontainer(seeSoap-MakingEquipment,page73).Placethecontaineronheatresistantsurfaceandaddthedrylyecrystalstothewater(nevertheotherwayaround).Stiruntilallthelyeiscompletelydissolved.Setthelyemixtureasidetocool.

4.Inamicrowave-safecontainer,addthehoneytotheremaining4oz(115g)ofwaterandstirtoincorporate.Microwaveforacoupleofsecondsatatimeuntilthehoneyiscompletelydissolved.Setaside.

5.Preparethemold,liningwithfreezerpaperwiththeshinysidefaceup.

6.Heatallofthesolidoilsandbeeswaxinastainlesssteelpotonthestovetoporinamicrowave-safecontainerinthemicrowave.Oncemelted,pourthemeltedsolidoilsintothemixingcontainerandaddtheliquidoils,stirringwelltoensureitisallmixed.

7.Checkthetemperatureofboththelyeandtheoils.Tokeepthebeeswaxfromhardening,theidealtemperatureoftheoilswillneedtobearound120°F(49°C).Thegoalistohavethelyerightaroundthattemperatureaswell.

8.Addthereservedhoneywatertothelyewater.Itwillprobablyturncolors;mineusuallyturnssomesortofpinkishhue.That’snormal.

9.Pourthelyewaterintotheoilsandmixwiththeimmersionblender.Onceitisemulsified,butnotyetattrace,addthefragranceifdesired.Keepmixinguntilitgetsto“trace.”Forthissoap,Irecommendmixinguntilitisalighttomediumtrace.Oncetraceisachieved,workquicklytogetthesoapintothemold,asitmaysolidifyquickly.

10.Pourthesoapbatterintothepreparedmold,takingcaretoscrapeallofthesoapresidueoutofthepot.Tapthesoapmoldonthecounteracoupleoftimestoremoveanyairpockets.Smoothoutthetopandcoverthemoldwithapieceofcardboardtoholdinsomeoftheheat.

NOTE:Whenusinghoney,beeswax,oranykindofmilk,theseingredientscancausethesoaptogethotterthannormalanditmaynotbenecessarytocoverthemold.

11.Afterabouttwenty-fourhours,thesoapshouldbecool,relativelyhard,andreadytounmoldandslice.Ifitstillseemsabitsoft,leaveitinthemoldandcheckitagainafteranotherdayorso.Oncethesoapseemshardenough,cutitintoindividualbars.Placethecutbarsonfreezerpaperwithspacebetweenthemandsetasideforaboutamonthtodryandcure,rotatingthemoccasionallysothatallsidesdryevenly.

12.Iliketostoremysoapsinacooldryplaceuntilneeded.Astheyage,theywillcontinuetolosewater,makingthemlongerlastingintheshowerandmoremild,sooldersoapsareagoodthingtohavearound.Iftheyaretobegivenasgifts,apapercigarband,paperbox,ormuslinbagarebestforpackaging,sincetheyallowthesoaptobreathe.

ADVANC ED

HONEY,OATS,ANDBEESWAXSOAP(HOTPROCESSRECIPE)Hotprocesssoapissoapthatiscookedthroughthesaponificationstage.Iliketouseaslowcookerwitha“warm”settingforthisrecipe.Makesurethatthereisplentyofroom,approximatelydoublethesizeofthesoapvolume,sinceitmay“fluffup”abitduringcooking.A5–6quart(5–6L)slowcookershouldbeagoodsize.Thisrecipealsohassomeoatsforsoothingandscrubbiness.Iliketorunminethroughacoffeegrinderorfoodprocessorfirsttochoptheoatsintosmallerpieces.

MATERIALS

oliveoil 370g 44.8%

coconutoil(76°F[24°C]) 232g 28.1%

palmoil 183g 22.2%

castoroil 33g 4.0%

beeswax 7.5g 0.9%

distilledwater 285g 10oz

lye(NaOH—sodiumhydroxide) 115g

honey 1tbsp

oats 4tbsp

fragrance(ifdesired) 2tbsp

disposablepaperbowl

containerforlye(seeSoap-MakingEquipment,page73)

largeplasticspoonorhighheatspatula

slowcooker

stainlesssteelwhiskorimmersionblender

digitalscale

mold(siliconebreadloafpanpreferred,butanymoldwilldo)

freezerpapertolinemold(ifnotasiliconemold)

Yield:Approximatelyeight4oz(113g)bars

1.Gatheralltheingredientstogetherandarrangethemonthetableintheorderinwhichtheyappearintherecipe.

2.Preparethemold,liningwithfreezerpaperwiththeshinysidefaceup.

3.Measurethelyeintoadisposablepaperbowlandsetaside.

4.Measureoutthedistilledwaterandpourintothelye-safecontainer(seeSoap-MakingEquipment,page73).Placethecontaineronheat-resistantsurfaceandaddthedrylyecrystalstothewater(nevertheotherwayaround).Stiruntilallthelyeiscompletelydissolved.Withhotprocess,thereisnoneedtowaituntilthelyeandtheoilsarethesametemperature.

5.Melttheoilsintheslowcookeronlow.Oncetheyarecompletelymelted,addthelyemixtureandblendwiththeimmersionblender.Keepblendinguntilitgetsto“trace.”

6.Withtheheatonlow,continuetostiroccasionallyusingthewhiskasthesoapgoesthroughvariousstages.Earlyon,itmayseparate.Lateronitmaybubbleupandthreatentoboilover.Ifthathappens,turnofftheheattemporarilyandwhiskalittlehardertodeflatethebubbles.Onceithassettleddownagain,putitbackontheheatandcontinuethecookingprocess.Onceitisatastagewhereitresemblespetroleumjelly,whichusuallytakesabout30–40minutesofcookingtime,itisalmostdone.Becarefulnottoovercookthesoap.Takeittojustthepetroleumjellystageandthenremovefromheat.

7.Addthehoney,oats,andfragrance,ifdesired,andstirwellbeforetransferringthesoapbatterintothepreparedmold.Tapthesoapmoldonthecounteracoupletimestomakesuretherearenoairpockets.Smoothoutthetopandsetasidetocool.

8.Whencompletelycool,cutthesoapintoindividualbars.Placethebarsonfreezerpaperwithspacebetweenthemandsetthemasidetodryforatleasttwoweeks.Althoughwiththehotprocesssoapstheyarefullysaponifiedanduseable,thereisstillextrawaterinthebarsthatshouldbeallowedtoevaporate.

CHAPTER6HOMEPRODUCTSBeeswaxproductsareagreatadditiontothehomeaswell,rangingfromdecorativetocompletelyuseful.EversinceMandiscoveredbeeswax,hehasbeenusingittomakehislifebetter.Hediscoveredthatwaxmadesurfacesmorewaterresistantandmoredurableanditcouldbemoldedintoavarietyofshapes.Itmadewoodniceandsmoothandsealeditfromtheelements.Itconditionedleather,makingitmorewaterresistantandsupple.Itstrengthenedthreadandstring,soitemsmadewithitlastedlonger.

Inthischapteryou’lllearnhowtomake

–Ornaments

–Dippedleaves

–Luminaries

–Conditionersandpolishes

–Waxedfabric

–Waterproofsneakers

–Waxedcottonsandwichwraps

BEG INNER

BEESWAXORNAMENTSBeeswaxornamentsareagreatwaytoscentandbeautifyanyroom,especiallyduringtheholidays.Theyareeasytomakeandlastalongtime.

MATERIALS1lb(425g)beeswax

fragranceoil(ifdesired)

stringorribbonforhanging(6’[1.8m]cutinto8–10"[20.5–25.5cm]lengths)

pouringpitcher

doubleboiler

thermometer

candymolds

siliconemoldrelease(ifusingmetalmolds)

toothpick

Yield:10–12ornaments

1.Ifyouareusingmetalcandymolds,spraythemwithsiliconemoldrelease.

2.Meltthebeeswaxinthepouringpitcherusingthedoubleboiler.Oncethewaxismelted,checkthetemperature.Ifit’shotterthan170°F(77°C),letitcoolto170°F(77°C).Addthefragranceintheamountsuggestedbythemanufacturer,stirtoincorporate,andpourintothecandymolds.

NOTE:Othermoldscanbeused,suchassiliconemuffinmolds,whichnowcomeinavarietyofseasonalshapes.Thoseworkwell,butIwouldsuggestnotfillingthemalltheway.Halfwayismorethanenough.

3.Takeeach8–10inch(20.5–25.5cm)lengthofstringandfolditinhalf.Oneendwillbeembeddedintothewax.IlikeputtingtheloopedendintothewaxsoIcantietheornamentontotreebranchesorotherlocations,buteitherendwillwork.

4.Oncethewaxbeginstoskinoveronthemoldside(butnotontop),addthestring,pushingitintopositionwithatoothpicktoembeditinthewax.Makesurethestringiscenteredandcompletelysurroundedbywax,notjustsittingontopofit.

5.Allowtocoolinthemold.Onceitiscompletelysolid,invertthemoldonthetabletopandtapgentlytorelease.Ifanyornamentssticktothemolds,placethemoldinthefreezerfor5–10minutesandtryagain.

6.Cleanuptheornamentsonthebacksidebywarmingabutterknifeoveraflameandusingittomeltawaytheroughedges.

7.Hangtheornamentsandenjoy.Iftheornamentsgetdusty,wipethemdownwithrubbingalcoholandasofttoothbrush.Allowtodry.Torevivethescent,warmtheornamentslightlywithablowdryer.

BEG INNER

BEESWAXDIPPEDLEAVESIlovefall.HereinWisconsinweusuallyhaveaverycolorfulfallthatisalwaysmorefleetingthanIwouldlike.Thisprojectisaperfectwaytopreservesomeofthatfallcolortoenjoyyearround.Forthissmallinvestmentinbeeswax,youcanmakeatree’sworthofleaves,ifyoudesire.

MATERIALS1lb(425g)beeswax

driedleaves(colorful,pliableleavesworkbest)

fragrance(ifdesired)

smallelectricskillet

waxedpaperorfreezerpaper

1.Firstpreparetheleaves.Sortthroughalltheleavesandselectthebestonesforthisproject.Theyneedtobedry,soputtheminawarmoven(about200°F[93°C]foraboutahalfhour)todryifnecessary.

2.Meltthebeeswaxintheelectricskillet,takingcarenottooverheatthewax.Oncethewaxismelted,addthefragranceintheamountsuggestedbythemanufacturerandstirtoincorporate.Thewaxlevelshouldbehighenoughtoeasilyimmersetheleavesintothehotwax.

3.Workingwithoneleafatatime,holdontothestemanddiptheleafintothehotwax.Useawoodenchopstickortoothpicktopushtheentireleafunderthewax.Removeandsetasideonthewaxedpapertocool.

4.Placethefinishedleavesinadecorativebowlorstringthemonafishinglinetocreateagarland.

BEG INNER

BEESWAXPINECONEFIRESTARTERSStartafireinstylewiththesepineconefirestarters.Theyarestylishenoughtobeautifyaspaceandfilltheroomwithlight,pleasantscent.Theyrequirequiteabitofwaxbutitdoesn’thavetobethesuperhigh-qualitywaxusedincandlemaking.

MATERIALS2lbs(850g)beeswaxforpinecones(lowergradewaxisfinehere)

5lbs(2.3kg)beeswaxfordippingcontainer

12pinecones(seenote)

candlewicking(Iprefersquarebraid2/0cottonwicking)

fragranceoressentialoil,optional

doubleboiler

thermometer

woodenstirstick

freezerpaper

Yield:Approximately12medium-sizepinecones

1.Inthedoubleboiler,heatthewaxtoapproximately190–200°F(88–93°C).

2.Whilethewaxisheating,tiean8–10"(20.5–25.5cm)pieceofwickingaroundthepineconeclosetothetop,leavingalongtailandcuttingtheotherendclosetotheknot.Threadthelongendup,closetothemiddleofthepineconeatthetop.Thiswillultimatelybethewickforlightingthepinecone,butit’salsousefulfordippingtheconeintothewax.Prepareallthepineconesthesamewayandsetaside.

3.Oncethewaxishotenough,addthescent,ifdesired,andgiveitaquickstirtomix.Holdingthepineconebythewick,dipitintothewaxandleaveitthereuntilallthebubblesstopcomingup—probablyabout10secondsorso.Theideaistogetathincoatingonthepinecone.Whenitfirstgoesintothewax,itwillbecoldandmorewaxwilladhere,butasitwarmsupsomeofthewaxwillmeltoffagain.Atthispoint,pulltheconeoutofthewaxandsetitonthefreezerpapertocool.Continuewiththeremainingpinecones.

4.Touse,simplylightthewickandplaceinthefire.Enjoy!

NOTE:Pineconesthataren’tcompletelydrymayexplodeoncetheyareinthefire,sotobesafe,makesurethatthepineconesarecompletelydry.Iliketoplacethemonabakingsheetand“bake”themforanhourorsoatthelowestovensetting.Iftheovendoesn’tgoreallow(minegoesdownto150°F[65°C]whichisperfect),heattheovenonthelowestsettingandthenturnitoffandaddthepinecones.Leavethemintheovenuntilcool.Nowtheyarereadytobemadeintofirestarters.

BEG INNER

BEESWAXLUMINARIESTheselittlegemsaretheperfectwaytocreatemoodlightinginsideorinoutdoorentertainingspaces—andtheymakeuseofhandmadebeeswaxtealightsorvotivecandles.Thisisafunprojecttodowitholderchildren.

MATERIALS1lb(425g)ormorebeeswaxforluminaries

5lbs(23kg)fordippingcontainer

doubleboilerforwax

balloons(highqualityroundonesworkbest)

coldwater

Yield:3–6luminaries

1.Meltthebeeswaxinthedoubleboiler.Useacontainerthatislargeenoughtobeabletofittheballoonsinwithatleastalittlewiggleroom.

2.Fillaballoonwithcoldwater,payingattentiontotheshapethatthewatercreatesasitfillstheballoon.Oncethedesiredshapeisattained,tieofftheballoon.Makesurethattheballoonisnotstretchedtoomuchoritmayburstwhenitcomesincontactwiththehotwax.Whendeterminingthesizeandshapeofthevotive,alsoconsidertheheatthatwillbegivenoffbythecandle.Itisbettertomaketheluminaryslightlylargerthanneededratherthanriskinghavingitmeltbecauseitwasmadetoosmall.

3.Holdingtheballoonbythetie-offknot,dipitpartofthewayintothemeltedbeeswaxandpullitbackout.Settheballoonlightlyonatabletocreateaflatspotonthebottomthatwillhelptokeeptheluminarystable.Thecoldwaterintheballoonwillhardenthewaxquicklybuttheshapeestablishedearlyonwilldeterminethefinalshape,soworkfast.

4.Diptheballoonandsetitonthetabletohardenseveralmoretimesuntiltheluminaryhasthedesiredthickness.Iliketodominefivetosixtimes.Experimentwithdippingtheballoonata

differentangleeachtime,keepinginmindthatthosevariationswillshowoncethereisacandleinside.

5.Drainthewateroutoftheballoonbyeitherundoingtheknotorbypoppingtheballoon.Theballoonwillpeelrightoffthewax.Ifdesired,theluminarycanbeleftlikethis.However,Iliketocleanuptheluminaryabitmorebyusingmyhotplatetomeltaflatareaonthebottomandsmoothingouttheedges.Simplyturntheluminaryupsidedownandlightlyrunitstopedgealongthesurfaceofthehotplate.Addabeeswaxtealightandenjoytheambience.

BEG INNER

CUTTINGBOARDCONDITIONERWoodencookingtoolssuchascuttingboards,woodenspoons,androllingpinsneedoccasionalcare,andsincetheywillbeincontactwithfood,it’snecessarytouseafoodgradeproduct.Iliketouseafood-grademineraloil,sinceIknowthatitwilllastindefinitelyanddoesnotgetgummyovertime.Forcuttingboardsthatseealotofuse,walnutoilisanoptionaswell.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 70g 20.6%

food-grademineraloil 270g 79.4%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoonorstirstick

wide-mouthjarortinwithlid

Yield:5oz

1.Heatthebeeswaxandmineraloiltogetherinadoubleboileruntilmelted.Mixwellandpourintowide-mouthjars.

2.Touse,simplyscoopoutsomeoftheconditionerwitharagoryourfingersandrubitalloverthewood.Letitsitovernightandbuffitwithasoftcloththenextmorning.

BEG INNER

SOLIDWOODPOLISHKeepwoodlookingbeautifulwiththisage-oldrecipe.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 75g 33.33%

boiledlinseedoil 75g 33.33%

turpentine 75g 33.33%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoonorstirstick

wide-mouthjarortinwithlid

Yield:Approximately8fluidounces(235ml)

Combineallthreeingredientsinadoubleboiler,stirringoccasionally.Whenitisallmelted,transfertoawide-mouthjarortinandallowtocool.

BEG INNER

WOODCONDITIONERCREAMThisrecipeisperfectfornourishingthewood.Itcleansandprotectsinonestep.

MATERIALS

yellowbeeswax 150g 71.5%

turpentine 60g 28.5%

doubleboiler

spoonorstirstick

wide-mouthjarwithlid

Yield:Approximately8fluidounces(235ml)

1.Heatthewaxinadoubleboileruntilmeltedandremovefromheat.

2.Stirintheturpentine.Mixwellandpourintoawide-mouthjar.

BEG INNER

BEESWAXFURNITUREPOLISHBeeswaxfurniturepolishisconsideredtheultimateinwoodcaredueinlargeparttothesoft,satinshineitgivestothewood.Thetouchofcarnaubawaxinthispolishresultsinaharder,shinierfinish.

MATERIALS

beeswax,yellow 43g 10%

carnaubawax 10g 2.4

turpentine 372g 87.6%

doubleboiler

digitalscale

spoonorstirstick

wide-mouthjarsorbottleswithlids

Yield:Makesapproximately16fluidounces(475ml)

1.Meltthewaxesinadoubleboiler.

2.Removefromheatandstirintheturpentine.

3.Onceitiscompletelymixed,pourintowide-mouthjars.

4.Applythepolishwithacleanclothandrubinsmallcircles.Turntheclothasitbecomesdirty.Allowthepolishtodry,thenbuffwithacleancloth.Ifmorethanonecoatisdesired,waittwodaysbetweenapplications.

BEG INNER

WAXEDFABRICApplyingbeeswaxtofabrichaslongbeenamethodofwater-proofingsomethingthatnormallyisanythingbutwaterproof.

Almostanysmooth,natural-fiberfabriccanbemademorewaterresistantbyapplyingalayerofbeeswax,butsomefabrics,suchascorduroy,justdon’tlendthemselvesasreadilytothisprocess.Canvas,twill,muslin,andnumerousotherfabricsworkreallywellandcanbeturnedintoamultitudeofuseful,environmentallyfriendlytools.

Howbesttoapplythewaxisdeterminedbytheobjectyou’dliketowaterproof.Ifyouarestartingwithaflatfabric,thebestwayistosoakthefabricinbeeswaxandthenremovingtheexcess.Thisprocessensuresthatthewaxpenetratesthefibersandcreatesafilmkeepingwaterout.Whenworkingwithobjectsthatarealreadymade,suchascanvassneakers,thewaxwillneedtobeappliedtothe

finisheditem.

BEG INNER

WATERPROOFSNEAKERSImaginesloshingthroughwaterpuddlesinsneakersandnotgettingwetfeet.Soundsgreat,right?Well,Ican’tpromisethattheendresultwillyieldcompletelydryfeet,buttheywillbesignificantlydrier.Unlikeplasticrainshoes,thebeeswaxstillallowsfeettobreathe,andyou’lllookalotmorestylish!

Thistechniquecanbeemployedforanythingalreadymade,notjustsneakers.

MATERIALS8oz(212.5g)beeswax

pairofcanvassneakers

2tallkitchengarbagebags

newspaper

papertowels

smallelectricskillet

cheap2"(5cm)naturalbristlebrush

heatgun

1.Stuffeachofthetwokitchengarbagebagswithafewsheetsofnewspaperthenstuffthegarbagebagsinsidetheshoes.Theplasticwillkeepwhateverwaxseepsthroughfromstickingtothepaperinsidetheshoe.Thepaperistheretohelptheshoekeepthepropershape.

2.Heattheelectricskillettoaround200°F(93°C)andaddthebeeswax.Whencompletelymelted,dipthepaintbrushinthewaxandletitwarmupforabout30seconds.

3.Paintthehotwaxontoallcanvaspartsoftheshoe,makingsurethatthecriticalareas,suchastheinterfaceofthesoletothetop,isthoroughlysoaked.Settheshoeasideandrepeattheprocesswiththeothershoe.

4.Pullthebagsoutoftheshoesandallowtheshoestocoolabit.

5.Tocleanoffsomeoftheexcesswax,stuffabigwadofpapertowelingintheshoeanduseaheatguntowarmthesloppysectionfromtheoutside.Thewaxwillquicklymeltandappeartowickaway.Movethepapertowelingtoanotherareaoftheshoethatneedsworkandrepeatthesameprocess,replacingthepapertowelsasneeded.

6.Lettheshoecoolandcheckforanymissedspots.Touchupthemissedsectionsandtryontheshoes.Theywillfeelabitstifferuntilthewaxsoftensupabit.Torejuvenatethewaxcoating,hititquicklywithaheatgun.Overtimethewaterproofingmaywearoffandrequireanotherapplication.Thistimeonlyalittlewaxwillbeneeded,butfollowthesameprocessasbefore.

BEG INNER

WAXEDCOTTONSANDWICHWRAPSThesewrapsareperfectinthiseco-consciousworldwelivein.Theyaresimplicityatitsfinest.Theykeepasandwichfresh,keepalltheingredientsinplaceandcanserveasaplacemat/platewheneatingthesandwich.Howgreatisthat!Inasmallersizetheycanalsobeusedasareplacementforplasticwrap.Justwarmthewrapandmoldaroundthetopofthejarorbowl.

MATERIALS3/4yard(68.6cm)ofmedium-weightcottonfabric(Iliketousetwillfabricforthis)

1lb(425g)beeswax

electricskillet

tongs

papertowels

heatgun

Yield:Approximately8wraps

1.Measurethewidthofthefabric.Manytimescottonfabricwillcomeina45"(114.5cm)width.Othertimesitwillbe60"(152.5cm)ormore.Myidealsizeforsandwichwrapsisa12"(30.5cm)square,butIwigglethosedimensionsabittousethefullwidthofthefabric.Sometimesthatmeansmakingthem11"×12"(28cm×30.5cm).Noworries;thesandwichwillstillfit.

2.Meltthebeeswaxintheelectricskillet.Onceitismelted,laythewrapinthehotwaxandwaitforthebubblestodisappear,abouttenseconds.

3.Usingthetongs,pullthefabricoutofthewaxandletasmuchofthewaxdripoffaspossible.Asthewaxcools,trytostraightenoutthefabricsothatitsnotstucktogetherweirdly.Therewillstillbequiteabitofwaxonthefabric.Setitasidefornowandrepeatwithanothertwoorthreepiecesoffabric.

4.Toremovesomeoftheexcesswaxfromthefabricpieces,placetwoorthreelayersofpapertowelsonaprotectedsurfaceandthenlayanunwaxedsquareoffabriconthepapertowelswithawaxedpieceoffabricontopofit.Usingtheheatgun,startatonecornerandmeltthewaxuntilit“disappears”(seepsintothelayerbelow),dabbingwithballeduppapertowelstosoakupanyexcesswax.

5.Continuerunningtheheatgunovertherestofthetopfabricpiece.Liftoffthetoppieceandchecktoseehowthoroughlythelowerpieceisnowwaxed.Mosttimesitjustneedsalittletouchuptomakesureitisallevenlywaxed.Setthesetwoasideandrepeatwiththeremainingwraps.

6.Whilethewrapsarestillwarm,makesurethattheyarecompletelysquare.Ifnot,gentlytugatthecornerstopullthembackintoshape.Oncethewrapsarecooltheyarereadytouse,butwillbequitestiff.Astheyareusedtheywillsoftenupandbecomemoremalleable.

7.Toclean,wipedownwithadampcloth.Ifneeded,washwrapsincoolwaterbyhand.

BEADINGANDSEWINGThethreadorstringusedinjewelryorotherbeadingprojectsneedstobethinenoughtogothroughtheholeoftinybeadsandstrongenoughtowithstandalltheabusethewearerwillputitthrough.Thesamegoesforsewing.Beeswaxhelpsstrengthenandconditionthethread.Itpreventsfrayingandmakesbeadingandsewingeasier.Italsoreducestanglingandknotting,resultinginanicer,moreprofessionallookingproduct.

BEG INNER

THREADCONDITIONER

MATERIALS4oz(106g)beeswax

doubleboilerorsmallelectricskillet

Nonstickmuffintinorbeeswaxmold

1.Meltthewaxinthedoubleboiler,takingcarenottooverheatthewax.

2.Pourthewaxintothemold.Iusuallyfillthemabout1/2–1"(1.3–2.5cm)deep.Theblockcanbeabitclunkyifthewaxispouredtoodeep.

3.Allowthewaxtocoolcompletelythenpopthewaxoutofthemold.

4.OnelastthingIliketodobeforeusingtheblockofbeeswaxiscutasmallgrooveintotheedgeoftheblockwithawarmbutterknife.Simplyheattheedgeoftheknifebrieflyoveraflameandrunthe

knifealongtheedgeofthewaxblock.Thegroovedoesn’tneedtobeverydeep,butithelpskeepthethreadinplacethefirstcoupletimesitisused.

5.Tousethethreadconditionerforbeading,takethelengthofthreadorstringandlayoneendoverthenotch.Placeyourthumboverthethreadandgentlypullthethreadwiththeotherhand.Runitthroughacouplemoretimes,makingsurethatthewholethreadiswaxed.

6.Next,pinchoneendofthethreadbetweenyourthumbandforefingerandpullthethread,gentlysmoothingit.Dothisacouplemoretimesandthenitisreadytouse.

CHAPTER7BEESWAXARTBeeswaxisagreatmediumforcreatingincrediblydiverseartpieces.TherearetwodistincttechniquesthatIwilltouchoninthissection:batikandencaustic.Thesetwotechniquesprovidefertilegroundforbringingoutthecreativespiritineveryone,andwithafewsafetyprecautions,arealotoffuntodo.Therearesomespecializedtoolsthatmakeiteasiertoachieve,butnoneofthemaretooexotic.

Inthischapteryou’lllearnhowtomake

–Batik

–Batikart

–Batiknapkinsanddishtowels

–Encausticart

–Encausticcollages

BATIKBatikisanancientartformthatdatesbackatleast2,000years.Itisessentiallyaresisttechnique,whichmeansthatcolorisbeingprotectedfromadditionaldyebybeingcoveredwithwax.Eachcolorbuildsonthesumofthepreviouscolors.Itisanartformthatcantakesyearstoperfect,avisionfortheendproduct,andpatiencetoseethepiecethroughallthestepsneeded.

MuchasIwouldliketocallmyselfanartist,Iamnot.ButIdoliketodoartfulthingsandthisisrightupmyalley.Ilikethatbatikcanbeasintricateorsimplisticastimeandskillwillallow.Thetwoprojectsincludedinthissectionareperfectforbeginnersandtheycreateitemsthatcanbeusedoncecompleted.

Basichardwareandcraft-storetoolsareallthatisrequired,buttherearesomespecializedtoolsthatcanbealotoffuntoplaywith.OnethatIliketouseisatjanting,whichisastylusthatholdsmoltenwaxanddispensesitthroughanarrowtip.Itisheldlikeapenorbutterknife.Theart-supplystoreinmyareahadasetoftjantingtoolsinsmall,medium,andlarge,whichwasperfectsinceIhadnoideawhichsizeIneededtomakemyvisionareality.

BEESWAX/PARAFFINRATIOThewaxisgenerallyablendofbeeswaxandparaffin.Dependingontheratiosofthetwo,differenteffectscanbeachieved.Themoreparaffinthemorethewaxwillcrackleandletsomedyethrough.Personally,Ilovethiseffect,somyblendwilldoabitofthat.Adjusttheproportionofthewaxblendasdesired—moreparaffin,morecrackle;morebeeswax,lesscrackle.

Also,Iencourageyoutolearnfrommymistakeandpurchasenewparaffinwaxforbatik,ratherthanrecyclingusedcandles.Althoughcandlesmayseemliketheyareallparaffin,theymaycontainoilsandotherfillers.Theoilswillnotwashouteasilyandmayleaveapermanentgreasestain,inadditiontomakingthewaxmorepliable,whichiscountertowhytheparaffinisaddedinthefirstplace.

BESTDYETECHNIQUESForbatik,Iliketousespeciallydesignedcold-waterdyesthatdonotrequireheat.Thegrocerystoredyesshouldworkaslongastheyarepreparedaccordingtothedirectionsandthenallowedtocool.Ifthedyebathistoowarm,itwillmeltthewax.Wettingthefabricwithcoldwaterfirstwillallowthefabrictoabsorbthedyemoreevenly.Leaveitinthedyebathuntilthedesiredtinthasbeenachieved.Irecommendusingfabricscrapstotestthedyeingtime.Haveseveralthatcanbepulledoutatregularintervals,givenaquickrinseandtossedinthedryertoseehowthatcolorlooksdry.Oncethedrysampleisthedesiredcolor,removethebatikfromthedyebathandrinsewithcoldwateruntilthewaterisrelativelyclear.Thisisespeciallyimportantwithbatik,sinceany“free”dyeremaininginthefabricmaytinttheareaswherethereiswax.

REMOVINGTHEWAXTherearetwowaysthewaxcanberemoved:boilingitinhotwaterorironingitwithpapertowels.Whendecidingwhichroutetogo,Iwouldsuggestusingthedyedsamplefabrictocheckthedye’scolorfastness.Theeasier,cleanerwaytoremovethewaxisbyputtingthewholepieceinastockpotandboilingit.Thewaxfloatstothetopandcanbeskimmedoffwhenthepotcools.Theothermethodistouseahotironandmeltallthewaxintosomepapertowels.Ifgoingwiththeironingmethod,Iwouldsuggestmultiplelayersofnewspapertoprotectthetablesurface,thenseverallayersofpapertowelingthenthebatikpieceandthenanothercouplelayersofpapertowels.Keepreplacingthepapertowelsuntilallthewaxisremoved.

INTERMED IATE

BATIKNAPKINSForthisproject,Idecidedtouseastamptoapplythewax.Ifoundsomeoldrosettemoldstuckedawayandthoughttheymightworkreallywell,andtheydo!Butitdoesn’thavetobearosettemold.Metalcookiecuttersworkwellasdosomekitchenimplementssuchastheold-fashionedpotatomasher.Theimportantpointstokeepinmind,isthattheyneedtobeabletotaketheheatandtheyneedtobeabletobepickedupandpositionedonthenapkin.Withcookiecutters,tryclippingaclothespintotheedge.Forthisproject,wewillonlyuseonedyebath.

Iwillbeusing60percentbeeswax,40percentparaffinwaxblendforthisproject.Howmuchis

neededwilldependonthesizeoftheelectricskilletandthetoolbeingused.Withmyrosettemolds,Ifoundthatthewaxonlyneededtobe1/2"(1.3cm)deep.

MATERIALScottonnapkins

beeswax

paraffinwax

smallelectricskillet

metalstampofchoice(cookiecutter,rosettemold)

coldwaterdye

dyevat(Iliketouseastainlesssteelstockpot,butaplasticbucketshouldworkaswell)

clotheslineandclothespins

embroideryhooplargeenoughtoholdmost,ifnotall,ofthenapkin

ironandironingboard,optional

stainlesssteelstockpot,optional

1.Topreparethenapkins,soakthenapkinsforanhourorsoinasolutionofwaterwithsomedetergentandwashingsodaadded.Rinsewellanddry.

2.Topreparethewax,addthebeeswaxandparaffintotheelectricskilletandslowlywarmuntilitismelted.Settheskillettemperaturetobetween180°Fand200°F(82°Cand93°C)toensurethatthewaxstaysliquid,butnottoohot.

3.Placethefirstnapkinintheembroideryhoop,centeringtheareawherethewaxresistwillgointheframe.Theembroideryhoopisusedtokeepthefabrictightandtoraiseitupfromthetablesothatthewaxcangoallthewaythroughthefabric.Keepinmindthatifthehoopissmallerthantheintendeddesign,youwillneedtomovethehooptocompletethedesign.Iwouldsuggestapatternthatwillworkwiththesizeembroideryhoopyouareusing.Trappingawaxedareabetweenthehooppartswillprobablyleaveamark.

4.Nowforthedesign,Iliketohaveaconceptinmind,butItendtoleavetheactualdetailsofthe

designtothemoment.Iloveabitofserendipityinmydesigns.Forthisproject,Ihavechosentodoarepeatingpatternwithmyrosettemold.Movethenapkinasclosetothehotwaxaspossibletopreventthestampfromcoolingenroutetothenapkin.Coolwaxdoesn’tpenetratethefabricaswellashotwax.Also,workquickly.Thelongeryoutaketolineupthestamp,themorelikelyitistodripwhereitdoesn’tbelong.Letthestampwarmupinthewaxforaminuteortwo.Especiallywithnapkins,whichtendtobeaslightlythickerfabric,itisimportantthatthewaxbehotandplentiful.Practiceonascrappieceoffabricbeforestartingontheactualnapkins.

NOTE:Iliketousealargefloursacktowelasasamplepiecetotryoutdifferentideas,eitherstamps,orpatternsorbrushtechniques.Oncethefabricisfilledup,Iputthewholethinginadyebathtoseewhatthefinishedeffectwillbe.

5.Onceallthenapkinshavebeenprinted,allowthemtocoolcompletelyandpreparethedyebathaccordingtopackageinstructions.Submergethenapkinsincoldwatertogetthemcompletelywetandplaceallthenapkinsintothedyebathatoncesothatthecolorwillbethesameforallofthem.Alsothrowinacouplesamplescrapsoffabrictousetocheckthecolorperiodically.Oncethecoloristherightdensity,removethenapkinsfromthedyebathandrinsethemincoldwater.Keeprinsinguntilthewaterrunsclear.

6.Gentlysqueezeoutthewaterandhangthenapkins,allowingthemtodrycompletely.

7.Oncedry,ironorboilthenapkinsaccordingtotheinstructionsonpage105toremovethewax.Whendecidingwhichmethodtouse,considerthecolorfastnessofthedye.Fragiledyesareprobablybestironedtoremovethewax.

INTERMED IATE

BATIKDISHTOWELSForthisproject,Idecidedtouseafree-formtechniquethatworkswellforbrushesortjantingtools.Aswiththenapkins,Iwillbeusing60percentbeeswax,40percentparaffinwaxblend.Howmuchisneededwilldependonthesizeoftheelectricskilletandthetoolusedtoapplythewax.Ifabrushwillbeused,thewaxlevelshouldprobablystartoutatabouta1/2"(1.3cm)deep.Touseatjantingtool,thewaxlevelneedstobedeeperinordertobeabletofillthetoolwithwax.

MATERIALSfloursacktowels

beeswax

paraffinwax

smallelectricskillet

cheapbristlebrushortjantingtool

coldwaterdye

dyevat(Iliketouseastainlesssteelstockpot,butaplasticbucketshouldworkaswell)

clotheslineandclothespins

embroideryhoop,largeenoughtoholdpartofthetowel

ironandironingboard,optional

stainlesssteelstockpot,optional

1.Followsteps1through3ofBatikNapkinsonpage106topreparethedishtowel,meltthewax,andplacethedishtowelintheembroideryhoop.

2.Forthisproject,Ihavechosentodoawavylinesmotif.Itiseasytodowithminimaltoolsanddoesn’trequirealotofartistry.Idosuggestthatyouplaceasketchofthemotifnexttothetoweltouseasareferencewhilebrushingonthewax.FormywavylinesprojectIdidn’tneedthisandusedfreeformlines.

3.Thereareafewthingstokeepinmindbeforeactuallyputtingwaxtofabric.•First,thewaxwillbleedabit,sochooseabrushsizethatisslightlysmallerthanthedesiredstrokewidth.•Second,abrushdoesnotholdmuchwax,andthestartofthebrushstrokewillprobablybefatterthantheend.Thiscanbeusedtoanadvantage,butneedstobetakenintoconsiderationwhenplanningthestartandstopoftheline.Thisislessofanissuewithatjantingtool,sinceithasabuilt-inreservoirforwax.•Third,thewaxneedstobehotenough,probablybetween180°Fand200°F(82°Cand93°C)tocreate

awaxlayerthatgoesallthewaythroughthefabric.Assoonasthebrushisremovedfromtheelectricskillet,thewaxwillstarttocoolandatsomepointthewaxwillnolongerpenetratethefabric.Ideally,thishappensafterthewaxonthebrushrunsout.

Placethebrushinthehotwaxforabout15–30seconds,oruntilthebristlesheatupandfindtheirnaturalshape.Paintthewaxontothetowel,movingthehoopifneeded.Oncethedesigniscompleted,letthewaxcoolandpreparethedyebath.

4.Wetthewaxedfabricwithcoldwaterfirstsothatitwillabsorbthedyemoreevenly.Transferthewettoweltothedyebathandsoakituntilthedesiredtinthasbeenachieved.Thenremovethetowelfromthedyebathandrinsewithcoldwateruntilthewaterrunsclear.

5.Hangthetoweluntilitiscompletelydry.Oncedry,itcanbeironedorboiledtoremovethewaxdependingonthepreferredmethodandcolorfastnessofthedye(seepage105fordetailsonwaxremoval).

ENCAUSTICEncausticcomesfromtheGreekwordenkaustikos,whichmeans“toburnin.”Theconcepthasbeenaroundformillionsofyearsanditinvolvespaintingwithhotbeeswax,whichmayormaynothavecoloraddedtoit.Today,artistsaredoingmorethanjustpaintingwithit;beeswaxisbeingusedforcollageandmixedmediaartpiecesourforefathersneverdreamedof.

WhatIloveaboutencausticisitsdiversityofuses.Encausticcanbeusedtocreateboldpieceswithsaturatedcolors;createlight,etherealworks;orspareandmonochromaticpiecesthatcanallbeequallystunningandhighlyindividual.Piecescanbeverydimensionalorcompletelysmooth.Encausticcanalsobeusedtocreatemixedmediapiecesutilizingfoundobjectstocreateone-of-a-kindworksofart.

ENCAUSTICMEDIUMAlthoughonecanbuyencausticmediumandencausticpaintready-to-use,Ihaveincludedthebasicsonhowtomakeithere.Encausticisessentiallyjustbeeswaxandresin,butpigmentmaybeaddedaswell.Theresinincreasesthemeltingtemperatureandaddsluster,hardness,andshineoncethepieceisfullycured.Theaddedresinalsomakesthepaintmorebrittle,whichiswhyIrecommendusinganonflexiblesubstrate,suchaswood,tile,oraspecializedencausticboard,forthisproject.

Althoughitispossibletousetraditionalyellowcappingswax,Istronglyurgetheuseof“white”beeswax.WhenIfirsttriedencaustics,Iusedyellowbeeswax,whichwaswhatIhadonhand.IaddedmypigmentsandthoughtIcouldworkwiththeyellowundertones,butallIendedupwithwasmuddycolorsandverychildish-lookingartwork.Itwasawasteofwaxandpigment!Inowuseonlywhite,bleachedbeeswaxandhavehadamucheasiertimecreatingworksthatIamproudof.

INTERMED IATE

MASTERBATCHThereisartistryeveninthemakingofthemedium.Thedesiredfinishedeffectwilldeterminetheexactratiosofbeeswaxtoresin.Butkeepinmindthatiftoomuchresinisused,themediumwillbecometoobrittleandcouldflakeoff.Ifnotenoughresinisused,thepiecewillbeabitsoftandpronetodustaccumulation.Iliketheproportionof9partsbeeswaxto2partsdamarresin.Otherspreferaratioof10:1.

MATERIALS1lb(450g)“white”beeswax

100gdamarresin

smallelectricskilletwithtemperaturecontrol

spoonorstirstick

breadloafpanwithnonstickcoating

largeknife

1.Meltthebeeswaxintheelectricskillet,heatedtothe180°F–200°F(82°C–93°C)range.Oncethewaxismelted,addtheresinandstiruntilalltheresinismeltedandincorporated.Thiswilltakeahalfhourormore,sobepatient.Therewillbesomeimpuritiesintheresinthatwillnotmelt.Ignorethemfornow.

2.Pourthewaxandresinmixtureintotheloafpanandallowthewaxmixturetosolidify.Covertheworksurfacewithalayerofwaxpaper.Oncethewaxishardenoughtoremovefromtheloafmold,butstillslightlywarmtothetouch,invertitoverthewaxpaper.

3.Theimpuritiesthatwereintheresinsunktothebottomandarenowvisible.Usethelargeknifetocutorscrapethemoff.IliketokeepthewaxscrapingsandaddthemtothenextbatchofencausticmediumthatImakesonothinggoestowaste.

NOTE:Damarresincanbepurchasedatartsupplystoreseitherlocallyoronline.

4.Usetheknifetocutthecleanportionofthebeeswax/resinblockintosmallercubesthatareeasiertouseasis,oraretheperfectsizetotossintoatinandmixwithcolor.

INTERMED IATE

MIXINGENCAUSTICPAINTInmanyways,encausticpaintsarelikewatercolorandoilpaints.Whenthereisjustatinybitofpigmentused,theendresultismoreofawash,aswithwatercolors.Ifalotofpigmentisused,theendresultismorelikeoilpaints,creatingsuper-saturatedvibrantcolors.IuseFrenchmineralpigments,whichhavesometransparencyandanicerangeofcolors,butanykindofpowderedartists’pigmentwillwork.

MATERIALSbeeswax/resinblocks

powderedartists’pigmentincolorsofyourchoice

several4oz(113g)flat-bottomedtins

miniloafpan

electricgriddlewithtemperaturecontrol

paintbrush

1.Heattheelectricgriddleto200°F(93°C).Makesurethetemperaturesdoesnotriseabove220°F(104°C),orthewaxmaybegintosmokeanddegrade.

2.SinceImakemyownmediumandIhavealreadycutthebeeswax/resinblocksintomanageablepieces,Ijusttossacoupleofchunksintoaminiloafpanandputthepanonmyhotgriddle.

3.Asthebeeswax/resinblocksmelt,Iaddatouchofartists’pigmenttoa4oz(113g)flat-bottomedtin.

NOTE:IfIammakingsaturated,super-strengthcolors,Iliketomixthemin4oz(113g)flat-bottomedtins,eitherblendingthemwithencausticmediumdirectlyontheelectricgriddleoraddingtheconcentratedcolortoaminiloafpananddilutingitasdesired.

4.ThenIaddpigmenttothemeltedbeeswax/resinandstirwithmybrushuntilitisfullymixed.Ikeepapieceofabsorbentpaperonhandtotestthecolordensity.Itismucheasiertoaddmorepigmentthanitistoincreasethesizeofthecolorbatchbyaddingadditionalencausticmedium.Nowyou’rereadytopaint!

BEG INNER

PAINTINGWITHENCAUSTICSThisisaneasybeginnerprojectthatutilizesthepaintsyoujustmixed.Sincethisisartwork,therearenorulesonwhatcanorcannotbedone,butthereareafewguidelines.

MATERIALSsizedpanel

encausticpaintsintins

naturalbristlebrushes(Ilikeusing1–2"[2.5–5cm]brushesforoverallcoverageandsmallerbrushesformoreintricatework)

butanetorchorheatgun

Josspapersorsilverleaf

burnishingtool

papertowelornylonstocking

electricskilletwithtemperaturecontrol

Kraftpaper

Afterapplyingeachlayerofwax,itmustbefusedtothelayerbelowitusingeitheraheatgunorasmallbutanetorch.Ipreferthelatterformostofmywork.Fusingthewaxisaseasyasquicklymovingthetorchoverthewaxandwatchingitgofrommattetoshiny.That’salltheheatthatisneeded;anymore,andthewaxwillmoveordevelopheatspots.Ittakesabitofpracticetomastertheamountofheatandthemethodology,butitisafairlyeasylearningcurve.

Observepropersafetyprecautions.Makesurethespaceisproperlyventilated.Wearglovestoprotecthandsfromhotwaxandconcentratedpigments.Neverleavetheelectricgriddleoranyotherelectricaltoolspluggedinandunattended.Neverlettheencausticmediumandpaintexceed220°F(104°C).Keepafireextinguisheronhand,justincase.

Makesurethattheencausticmediumorpainthasturnedmattebeforeaddinganotherlayer.Amattefinishmeansithascooledenoughtoapplymorewax.

1.Forthisprojectwewillputdownlotsoftranslucentlayerstogivethepiecedepth.Tostart,pickacolorpaletteofthreecolors.Ichoseturquoisegreen,lavenderblue,andblackcurrantredandImixedjusttheamountneededforthisprojectinmyminiloafpans,addingjustatouchofcolorandpaintingitonmysampleKraftpapertomakesureitwaswhatIwanted—alightwash.

2.Warmthepanelwiththeheatguntomakeit\easiertoapplythewax.Brushtheencausticpaintontothepanelinthethreecolorsselected,coveringthewholepanelfromlefttorightinrandomstripes.(A)Fusethislayerwiththeheatgunortorch.(B)

3.Rotatethepiececlockwise90degreesandpaintsimilarstripesgoingtheotherdirection.Fusetothelayerbelow.

4.Applymultiplelayersontopofthefirstlayers,alwaysturningthepanelclockwise90degreesandfusingwiththeheatgunbeforeaddingthenextlayer.Sincethecolorsaresomewhattranslucent,theycanbelayeredwithgreateffect.Don’tbeafraidtoexperiment.Noticethatwitheachlayerthecolorgetsdarkerandabitmoresaturated.

5.Onceallthelayershavebeenpaintedonandfused,Iaddedasmallsquareofsilvertofloatontop.Itisafun,visuallyinterestingtouchthatyoucanaddusingsilverleaf,butIhavechosentouseJosspapers.Josspapers,whicharemadetobeburntasofferingsinvariousAsianreligiousceremonies,canbefoundatAsiangrocerystoresoronline.Ignorethefactthatsomearesilvercoloredandsomearegold.Allwillyieldasilverresult.

6.TodothetransferusingtheJosspaper,cutoutasquareofsilvertothedesiredsize.Ifthepanelisstillveryhot,allowittocoolabit,butifithasbeensittinglongerthan30minutes,usethetorchtowarmthespotwherethesilverwillgo.Becarefultojustwarmthewax,makingitslightlysticky,notsosoftthatitwillmovearoundwhenapplyingthesilver.Ifusingsilverfoil,noadditionalsizingisneeded,justapplyaccordingtodirections.

7.PlacetheJosspaperpiecefacedownontheartworkandrubwithaburnishingtool.Oncethewholesquarehasbeenburnished,removethebackingpaperbyaddingacoupledropsofwaterandrubbing

thepapergentlywithyourfingertips.Itwillstarttoballupandliftoff.Continueuntilallthepaperhasbeenremoved.

8.Makeonemorepassoverthesilversquarewiththetorchtoremoveanyresidualpaperfibersthatcouldcloudthepiecelater.

9.Setthepieceasidetocoolandcurecompletelyforacoupledaysandthenbuffitwithapapertowelornylonstocking.Standbackandadmire!

INTERMED IATE

ENCAUSTICCOLLAGEForthisproject,Iuseacollectionofprintedpapernapkinsanduncoloredencausticmedium.Therearesomewonderfulgraphicnapkinsouttherethatcaneasilybeturnedintoworksofart.Lookfornapkinswithagoodproportionofwhitespaceandgreatgraphicelements.

MATERIALSencausticpanel

napkinsinavarietyofpatterns

othernaturalelementssuchasleaves,thread,wiremesh

encausticmedium

naturalbristlebrush

electricgriddle

butanetorchorheatgun

nylonstockingorpapertowel

Kraftpaper

1.Topreparethenapkinsforuse,firstremovethebackingpaper.Mostcommerciallyavailablenapkinshaveoneortwolayersofwhitepaperattachedtothegraphicpaperonthefront.Removethoseextrawhitesheets.Aneasywaytodothisistotakeapieceofpainter ’stapeormaskingtapeandstickittothewhitebackingpaperandpull.Thepaperwillrip,butthat’sokay,sinceitwillnotbepartofthisproject.Ifthereisanotherpieceofwhitepaper,removeitthesameway.Now,allthat’sleftisthesuperthin,graphicpaperthatcanbeaddedtoencausticpanels.

2.Inorderforthepapertostick,thepanelneedstobesizedwithseverallayersofencausticmedium.Warmtheencausticmediumandthebrushthatwillbeusedforapplyingthemediuminaminiloafpanontheelectricgriddle.

3.Beforeapplyingthewax,warmthepanelwiththebutanetorchorheatgun.Thencoverthepanelwithmediumusingbrushstrokesthatgofromonesideofthepaneltotheotheruntiltheentirepaneliscovered.Usethetorchtofusethemediumtotheboard.Turnthepiececlockwise90degreesandrepeat,addinganotherlayerandfusingwiththetorch.Keepdoingthisuntilfourorfivelayersarebuiltup.Thepieceshouldberelativelysmooth.(Seephotosatright.)

4.Withnapkinpiecestornorcutintointerestingshapestocaptureallorpartofagraphicelement,begintoplanthearrangementofthepiecesontheboard.Keepinmindthatthewhiteareaswillbealmosttransparentwhenmediumisapplied,soaddingjustacoupleelementswitheachlayerworkswell.Then,asthelayersprogress,theoverlapofpapersbecomesreallyinteresting.Elementsthatgotaddedearlyonwillstarttorecedeintothebackgroundasadditionallayersofwaxareaddedtothetop.Thiscanbeusedtogreateffect.

5.Towardtheend,consideraddingotherelementstothecollage.Most,ifnotall,oftheelementsneedtobeembeddedinwaxtoholdtheminplace.Takecarewhenfusingaroundprotrudingelementsthatarenotcompletelywaxed,suchasdriedleaves,sincetheymightburn.Itisbesttowaxtheelementandthenapplyatleastpartofittotheartboard.

6.Oncetheworkiscomplete,letitcureforacoupledaysandthenbuffitwithanylonstockingorpapertowel.

CHAPTER8INGREDIENTSGUIDE

BUTTERSCOCOABUTTERINCI:TheobromaCacao(Cocoa)SeedButter

Thisisahardbutterwithameltingtemperatureof100°F(38°C).Ithasarelativelylongshelflifeoftwotofiveyears.ItalsocontainspolyphenolsandphyosterolsandsomeskinsofteningVitaminE.Cocoabutterprovidesanocclusivelayeronourskin.

PalmiticAcid25–30%

StearicAcid31–35%

OleicAcid34–36%

LinoleicAcid3%

MANGOBUTTERINCI:MangiferaIndica(Mango)SeedButter

Thisisamedium-hardbutterwithameltingtemperatureof86°F–98.6°F(30°C–37°C)andaslightsweetscent.Ithasashelflifeoftwotothreeyears.Ithasemollientproperties,highoxidativeability,woundhealing,andregenerativeactivity.

PalmiticAcid25-30%

StearicAcid31–35%

OleicAcid34–36%

LinoleicAcid3%

SHEABUTTERINCI:Butyrospermumparkii(SheaButter)Fruit

Thisisasoftbutterwithameltingtemperatureof97°F–100°F(36°C–38°C).Ithasashelflifeoftwotothreeyears.Sheapenetratesdeepintotheskin,rejuvenatingdamagedcellsandrestoringelasticityandtone.Insoap,ithasalargerthanaverageproportionoffatsthatarenotsaponifiable,meaningthesoapwillactuallyretainsomemoisturizingqualities.

PalmiticAcid25–30%

StearicAcid31–35%

OleicAcid34–36%

LinoleicAcid3%

OILS*APRICOTOILINCI:ApricotKernel(PrunusArmeniaca)Oil

Verysimilartosweetalmondoil,apricotoilisalightweightoilwithashelflifeofaboutoneyear.Onskinitissoftening,moisturizing,andiseasilyabsorbed.Insoapitcreatesaconditioningstablelather.Itisoftenusedinplaceofsweetalmondoilforthosewithnutallergies.

PalmiticAcid4–7%

StearicAcid1%

OleicAcid58–78%

LinoleicAcid20–34%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.190---.135

*AVOCADOOILINCI:PerseaGratissima(Avocado)Oil

Medium-weightoilwithashelflifeofaboutoneyear.Avocadooiliseasilyabsorbedintodeeptissue,andwithitswonderfullyemollientproperties,it’sidealformatureskins.Italsohelpstorelievethedrynessanditchingofpsoriasisandeczema,andithelpswithskinregeneration.

PalmiticAcid10%

StearicAcid4%

OleicAcid75–80%

LinoleicAcid7–10%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.190---.135

CASTOROILINCI:RicinusCommunis(Castor)SeedOil

Oneofthethickestandheaviestoilsavailable,castoroilhasashelflifeoffiveyears.Onskinitisahumectantandhelpstoretainmoisturelevels.Insoapitmakesforasofterbarbutimproveslatherwhenusedinsmallquantities.Canalsomakethesoapabittranslucent.

OleicAcid2–6%

LinoleicAcid2–4%

RicinoleicAcid85%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.180---.128

COCONUTOILINCI:CocosNucifera(Coconut)Oil

Solidattemperaturesbelow76°F(24°C),thisisamedium-weightoilwithashelflifeofabout2–4years.Onskin,coconutoilcontainssomeverypotentantioxidantsthatcanhelpwithskinaging,and

helprepairdamagecausedbylightandradiation.Itsoftens,moisturizes,andsootheschappedanditchyskin.Insoap,coconutoilcreatesloadsofbigbubbles.Althoughitmakesahardbar,itmeltsveryquicklyinwater,makingitagreatsoapforhardwaterconditions.Itisalsoextremelycleansingandinhighproportion,canbeverydryingtotheskin.

LauricAcid48%

MyristicAcid18%

PalmiticAcid9%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.2660/.181

EMUOILINCI:EmuOil

Thismedium-weightoilhasashelflifeofoneyear.Emuoilhaswonderfulskinsofteningandcellregeneratingpropertiesandisgreatforrestoringtheskin’sbarrierfunction.Thisoilalsohelpsotheringredientsabsorbbetterintotheskin.Althoughitcanbeusedinsoap,Irecommendthatthisoilbereservedfordirectapplications.

PalmiticAcid25–30%

StearicAcid31–35%

OleicAcid34–36%

LinoleicAcid3%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.135/.192

*FRACTIONATEDCOCONUTOILINCI:Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride

Thisisanincrediblylightweightoilwithatleasta2-yearshelflife.Sincethisisaportionofcoconutoilonamolecularlevel(fractionatedmeansthatanumberoflongchainfattyacidswereremovedchemically),theresultantmoisturizingoiliseasilyabsorbedbyskinandhair.

CaprylicAcid53–55%

CapricAcid36–47%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.334/.237

GRAPESEEDOILINCI:Vitisvinifera(Grape)SeedOil

Thisisanothergreatlightweightoil.Ithasarelativelyshortshelflifeof6monthsto1year.Onskinitcanhelptoretainmoistureandreduceinflammationanditchiness.Irecommendthatitisusedsparinglyinsoap,sinceithasashortshelflife.

PalmiticAcid7%

StearicAcid4%

OleicAcid16%

LinoleicAcid72%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.187/.133

JOJOBAOILINCI:SimmondsiaChinensis(Jojoba)SeedOil

Technicallythisisnotanoil,butratheraliquidwaxester.Itislightweightandhasalongshelflifeofatleast2years.Itisgreatforhairandskin,sinceitmixeswithsebumandallowsittobewashedaway.Itisanexcellentemollient.Insoap,jojobaaddsmoisturizingandconditioningpropertiesaswellasextendingtheshelflifeofthesoap.

PalmitoleicAcid2%

StearicAcid%

OleicAcid14–25%

GadoleicAcid37%

ErucicAcid20%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.065/.091

OLIVEOILINCI:OleaEuropaea(Olive)FruitOil

Thisamedium-weightoilwithashelflifeofaboutoneyear.Itisknownforitsskinmoisturizingandnourishingproperties.Itmakesanextremelygentlesoap,suitableforsensitiveskintypes.Usedbyitselfinsoap,ityieldsalatherthatiscreamyratherthanbubblyandwhilestillfresh,thelathermayactuallyfeelabitslimy.Thatsliminessgoesawayaftera6-monthormorecuretime.

PalmiticAcid10%

StearicAcid3%

OleicAcid55–83%

LinoleicAcid4–21%

LinolenicAcid1%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.135/.190

*RICEBRANOILINCI:OryzaSativa(Rice)BranOil

Ricebranoilisamedium-weightoilwithashelflifeof6monthstooneyear.ItishighinVitaminEandfattyacidsthatmakeskinsoftandimproveelasticity.Italsohelpswithcellregeneration.Insoap,itbehavessimilarlytooliveoil,butIfinditaddssilkinesstothesoapandmakesaslightlyharder,longerlastingbar.

PalmiticAcid16%

StearicAcid2%

OleicAcid42%

LinoleicAcid36%

LinolenicAcid2%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.135/.190

SAFFLOWEROILINCI:CarthamusTinctorius(Safflower)SeedOil

Thisisalightweightoilthathasa2yearshelflife.Itisanourishingoilthatisgreatforoilyskinandiseasilyabsorbed.Insoap,itismildandmoisturizing.

PalmiticAcid3–6%

StearicAcid1–4%

OleicAcid13–21%

LinoleicAcid73–79%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.135/.190

SESAMEOILINCI:SesamumIndicum(Sesame)SeedOil

Sesameseedoilisalighter-weightoilwithaaboutoneyearshelflife.Itisfrequentlyusedinmassageproducts,sinceitisdoesn’tstainclothes.Itisalsogoodatmoistureregulation,reducinginflammation,andcellregeneration.Insoap,sesameoilwillbemoisturizingandconditioning.

PalmiticAcid9%

StearicAcid4%

OleicAcid45%

LinoleicAcid40%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.135/.191

SOYBEANOILINCI:GlycineSoja(Soybean)Oil

Soybeanoilisalightweightoilwithaboutaoneyearshelflife.Itiseasilyabsorbedandcansoothechappedskin.Insoapitismild,moisturizing,andgivesacreamylather.Soybeanoilisalsoreadilyavailableandeconomical.Iprefertouseorganicsoybeanoil,especiallyinmydirectskinapplications.

PalmiticAcid10%

OleicAcid29%

LinoleicAcid53%

LinolenicAcid8%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.134/.188

SUNFLOWEROIL(HIGHOLEIC)INCI:HelianthusAnnuus(Sunflower)SeedOil

Higholeicsunfloweroilisamedium-weightoilwithashelflifeofaboutoneyear.Onskin,ithasgreatsofteningandanti-inflammatoryproperties.Insoap,itworksnicelywithpalmandoliveoilstogivearich,creamylatherthat’sverymoisturizing.

PalmiticAcid5–7%

StearicAcid3–6%

OleicAcid15–36%

LinoleicAcid61–73%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.136/.191

SWEETALMONDOILINCI:Prunusdulcis(Almond)oil

Thisisalightweightoilwithashelflifeofoneyear.Thisemollientoilsoftensandnourishestheskin,andisoftenusedinmassage.Insoapitcreatesaconditioning,stabilelather.

PalmiticAcid2–6%

PalmitoleicAcid2%

StearicAcid3%

OleicAcid60–78%

LinoleicAcid10–30%

LinolenicAcid2%

SAPVALUEKOH/NaOH:.137/.194

MISCELLANEOUSE-WAXNFINCI:CetearylAlcohol(and)Polysorbate6

E-waxisanall-in-one,easy-to-useemulsifierusedtocombinewaterandoilintoalotionorcream.NFmeansthatitconformstotheNationalFormularyguidelines.

LANOLININCI:Lanolin

Technically,lanolinisawax.Itistheyellow,extremelyviscoussubstancesheepproducethathelpsthemshedwaterfromtheircoats.Mostlanolinisaby-productofwoolprocessing,sinceitneedstoberemovedbeforethewoolcanbedyedorwoven.Forskin,itisawonderfulprotectant,creatingasemi-permeablelayertokeeptheelementsoutandthemoisturein.

LECITHININCI:Lecithin

Derivedfromsoybeans,lecithinisusuallyaddedtoactasanemulsifier,butitalsohelpstoreplenishandrepairtheskin.Itworkswondersonnails.

OPTIPHENINCI:Phenoxyethanol(and)CaprylylGlycol

Optiphenisabroad-spectrum,paraben-freepreservativethatcanbeusedtopreserveemulsifiedproductsthatcontainwater,suchaslotionsandcreams.Thereareotherpreservatives,butthisisoneofmyfavorites.

ROSEMARYOLEORESININCI:RosmarinusOfficinalis(Rosemary)LeafExtract

Rosemaryoleoresin,orROEasitisoftenabbreviated,isaddedtooilsasanantioxidant.Ithelpspreventoilsfromoxidizingandbecomingrancidanditprolongstheshelflifeofaproduct.Thisisnotapreservative.

STEARICACIDINCI:StearicAcid

Stearicacidisoneofmanyfattyacidsthatoccurnaturallyintheplantandanimalworld.Itisacomponentinanimaltallow,cocoabutter,andvegetablefats.Whenit’susedincosmeticproducts,stearicacidprimarilyfulfillstheroleofathickenerorhardener.Stearicacidisthesubstancethathelpsabarofsoapretainitsshape.

T-50(VITAMINE)INCI:TocopherolT-50isanall-natural,blendofmixedtocopherolsandediblevegetableoils.

Itfunctionsasanexcellentantioxidantforoilsorproductsthatcontainoil.Ithelpsdelayoxidationandwillhelptoextendtheshelflifeofoilsandoil-basedproducts.Itworksabitdifferentlythantherosemaryoleoresin,soIoftenuseboth.

FATTYACIDGLOSSARYERUCICACID(C22:1):Erucicacidisusedincosmeticproductsasanemollientbecauseitprovidesaprotectivelayerforskin.

GADOLEICACID(C20:1):GadoleicAcidpreventstransdermalwaterloss.Itservesasanocclusivebarrierwithoutbeingstickyoroverlygreasy.

LINOLEICACID(C18:2):Linoleicacidhelpstoimproveskin’sbarrierfunction,helpstosootheitchydryskin,andactsasananti-inflammatoryandamoistureretainer.

OLEICACID(C18:1):Verymoisturizing,oleicacidhelpsskincellsregeneratequickly.Itisveryeasilyabsorbedbytheskinanditactsasananti-inflammatory.

PALMITICACID(C16):Palmiticacidhelpstoreinforceskinbarrierfunction,andisaverygoodemollient.

PALMITOLEICACID(C16:1):Abuildingblockinourskinthatpreventsburns,wounds,andscratches.Mostactivemicrobialinhumansebum,palmiticacidtreatsdamagedskinandmucousmembranes.

RICINOLEICACID(C18:3,N-9):Onlyfoundincastoroil,ithasanalgesicandanti-inflammatoryeffects.

STEARICACID(C18):Stearicacidhelpsimprovemoistureretention;increaseflexibilityoftheskin,andrepairskindamage.

VITAMINE:Thisvitalvitaminsinksintoourskinandbehavesasanantioxidant.

HERBSARNICA(ARNICAMONTANA)Arnicaisknownforitsnaturalanti-inflammatorypropertiesanditsabilitytoreduceswelling.Arnicasalveisamuscleworkhorse.Itiswonderfulforsprains,strains,andpulledligamentsormuscles!Italsoworksreallywelltohelpbruisedareasheal.

CALENDULABLOSSOMS(CALENDULAOFFICINALIS)Calendulaisanti-inflammatoryandanti-microbial;goodforminorcutsandburns.Promoteshealingbyaidingclotting.

CHAMOMILE,GERMAN(MATRICARIACHAMOMILLA)Containstheflavonoidsapigenin,luteolin,andquercetin,andthevolatileoilsalpha-bisabololandmatricin,whichhelptomakechamomilesanti-inflammatory,antispasmodic,andantioxidant.Itisalsoknownforbeingcalming,soothing,andhealing.

CHAMOMILE,ROMAN(ANTHEMISNOBILIS)SeeGermanChamomile,whichhasaverysimilareffectonskin.

CHICKWEEDLEAF(STELLARIAMEDIA)Greatsootherofitchyandsoreskin.Ithelpstocoolsandrelieveinflamedareas.

COMFREYLEAFANDROOT(SYMPHYTUMOFFICIALIS)Thehighallantoincontentincomfreyisthestarofthisherb.Itencouragestherenewalofskincellsandthestrengtheningofskintissues,andithelpstohealwoundsaswellastoreducethevisibleeffectsofagingbybringingbackelasticitytotheskin.Itisalsoamildastringent,whichmakescomfreygreatforsunburn,ulcers,andsores.Sinceitissopowerful,itshouldnottobeusedoncutsthataredeep,sinceitcantrapinfectionbyhealingthetoplayerofskinfasterthandeeperlayers.

LAVENDER(LAVANDULAANGUSTIFOLIA)Lavenderisasuperstarforburnsandencouragingwoundhealing.Ithasalsobeenfoundtobeeffectiveagainsttheprincipalbacteriainvolvedinacneandisknowntosootheinsectbitesandbeestings.

MARSHMALLOWROOT(ALTHAEAOFFICINALIS)Soothesskinandpromoteswoundhealing.

PLANTAINLEAF(PLANTAGOMAJOR)Astringent,antibacterial,anti-inflammatory,andanti-itch,plantainhasalonghistoryofbeingusedforproblemskin.Itcontainssalicylicacid,whichhelpstoreduceacnebreakouts.Plantainisalsogreatforbeestings.Justpickaleaf,mashitupabit,andapplyasapoulticetothesting.

ROSEMARY(ROSMARINUSOFFICINALIS)Removesexcessoilfromskinwithoutcausingexcessdryness.Ithasregeneratingandstimulatingeffectsthathelptorejuvenateskinandgiveitamoreyouthfulglow.Ithelpstorestoreelasticityandfirmnesstotheskinandencouragesskincellturnoverandrenewal.

SELF-HEAL(PRUNELLAVULGARIS)Withastringent,antibacterial,andantisepticproperties,self-healhelpstoreducepainandpromotehealingofcutsandscrapes.Canevenbeusedonskinrashes.

ST.JOHN’SWORT(HYPERICUMPERFORATUM)Helpstosupportskinelasticity,soothesrednessandirritation,andworkswondersonburns,wounds,insectbites,andotherskinirritations.

THYME(THYMUSVULGARIS)Thyme’snaturalantimicrobial,antibacterial,andanti-inflammatorypropertieshelptoremoveexcessoilanddirtfromporesandreduceacneoutbreaks.Thymecontainspowerfulantioxidantsthatcanhelpprotectskinfromprematureaging.

ESSENTIALOILS(T=topnoteH=heartnoteB=basenote)

BENZOIN(B)

Ithasasweet,warm,vanillalikeodorthatislonglastingandmakesitanexcellentfixative.

BERGAMOT(T,M)

Cold-pressedessentialoilproducedbytherindofabergamotorangefruit.Bergamotessentialoilassistswithstress,tension,SAD,PMS,skinproblems,anxiety,andcoldsandflu.Ontheskin,Bergamotoilhasantisepticandastringentproperties,whichmakeitusefulaftershaving.

BERGAMOTMINT(T)

Sweet,herbaceous,andslightlyfloral,itoffersasmoothmintscent,temperedbyfloral,fruity,notes.Thescentisknowntobecalmingandrelaxing.

BIRCH(H)

Sweet,sharp,minty,fresh,camphoraceousaroma,itisdistilledfromthebark.Ithaspowerfulpainrelieving,anti-inflammatory,andantispasmodicproperties,whichmakesitgreatforuseonthejointsandmuscles.Exercisecautionwhenusingitthough,asbirchoilcansometimesirritatetheskin.Itshouldalwaysbeusedcarefullyandinthecorrectdilution.

CAMPHOR(T)

Anexcellentoilforinsectcontrolandpainmanagement.Itshighcamphorcontentalsomakesagreatclearingoilinskincare.

CEDARWOOD,ATLAS(H)

Cedarwoodissteamdistilledfromthewood.Itissoft,smooth,andgrounding.anduplifting,yetcalming.Thefragranceisdelicateandsweetwithawoodyundertone.Itisknownforitsdetoxinguses,whereitoffersagentlestimulatingeffect,andthebreakdownandeliminationoftoxins,includingfattybuildup,asincellulite.Itisalsoeffectiveonsoremusclesandjoints,anditisanupperandlowerrespiratorydecongestant.

CHAMOMILE,GERMAN(H)

Ontheskin,itisamiracleworkerandcalmsred,dry,andirritatedskin,aswellascalmingskinallergies,suchaseczema,psoriasisandallotherflakyskinproblems.Itisalsoagreattissueregenerator.Chamomilehasthehighestcontentofchamazulene,whichmakesitveryanti-inflammatory.Itsscenthasawarm,somewhatsweet,herbaceousnotethatblendswellwithmostfloweroils,mostofthecitrusoils,andalloftheotherherbaloils.

CLARYSAGE(B)

Clarysageessentialoilassistswithmusclepains,anxiety,stress,nervoustension,insomnia,menstrualproblems,andPMS.Ontheskin,clarysagecanhelprestorelostskintone.Thescentisfreshandherbaceous,withgrassynotesthatdrydownintoambernotes,duetohighsclareolcompounds.

CORIANDER(T)

Corianderessentialoilcanhelpassistthedigestivesystem,easerheumatismandarthritispainandmuscularspasm,whiledetoxifyingthebody.

CYPRESS(H)

Thisisagrounding,centering,essentialoil,well-knownforhelpingonetogetemotionalbalanceandmentalclarity.Onskinitcanhelpwithsluggishlymphaticconditionsandcirculatorytreatmentstoeliminatetoxinsfromthesystem.Thescentisveryevergreenwithsomeherbaceousnotes.

EUCALYPTUS(T)

Thisoilisanintenselyclean,refreshing,andupliftingoil.Itiscommonlyusedtotreatupperrespiratoryconditions.Itisalsoagreatchoiceformusclepain.

FENNEL(T)

Fennelessentialoilhasasweet,earthy,aniselikearoma.Itisagoodskintonicandcanbebeneficialfordull,andtiredskin.Itcanalsohelpwithpuffyareas(i.e.,eyesandthighs),asithelpstoreducewaterretention.

FRANKINCENSE(B)

Thisoilisusedtorejuvenateskinandencourageskincellgrowth.Itisalsoeffectiveinhealingsoresandwounds,andhelpstoreducescarringandskininflammation.Frankincensesoothesandcalmsthemind.Thescentisfreshandearthy,reminiscentofincenseandhasaslightsweetnessthatisbothwarmanddeep.Inperfumeryitcanbeapowerfulbridgenotetotiethecomponentstogetherandpreventindividualnotesfromstandingout.

GRAPEFRUIT,PINK(T)

Thisoilhastheabilitytoflushfluidsoutoftissues,makingitagreatchoiceforcelluliteandfluidretentionproblems.Itisalsoagreatchoiceforcongested,oily,skinwhereitcanhelpbalanceandcleansetheskinwithoutcausingtheskintooverreactandcreatemoreoil.Itsscentisfreshandtart,withsmoothcitrusnotes.

HELICHRYSUM(B)

Thisoilisknownforitissuperiorantihematomaandscarhealingbenefits.Itisapowerfulcirculationenhancerandskinregenerator,anditisgreatforthetreatmentofbruisesandpoorcirculation.Thescentiswarm,herbaceous,andslightlysweet.

JUNIPERBERRY(T)

Thisoilhasdiureticeffectsthathelpalleviatefluidretention.Ithasdisinfectantandpurifyingactionsandisoftencombinedwithwhitesageforspiritualclearingandcleansing.Italsoimprovescirculationandcanhelpwithmuscleaches,sinceithelpseliminatelacticacidbuildupattheheartofpainandinflammation.Thescentisfreshandupliftingwithwoodynotes.

LAVANDIN(H)

Ahybridfromtruelavenderandspikelavender.Verysimilartolavender,butsmellisabitmorecamphorus.

LAVENDER(H)

Asanessentialoilitsoothesthespirit,relievesinsomnia,andrelievesmuscularspasms.LavenderAbsolutestimulatesthegrowthofnewskincellsandtonestheskin.Itisamusthaveinthefirstaidkitandisoneofthefewoilsthatcanbeapplied“neat”(directlytotheskinwithoutdilution).

LEMON(T)

Thisoilhasanupliftingandrefreshingeffectaswellasrelievingsomeanxietyandstress.Onskin,ithelpswithcleansingandkeepingoilyskinundercontrol.Thescentisbrightandfresh.

MENTHOLCRYSTALS(T)

Mentholcrystalsareanorganiccompoundobtainedfrompeppermintorothermintoils.Itissolidatroomtemperatureandmeltsslightlyabove.Mentholisusedforitslocalanestheticandcounterirritantqualities.

MYRRH(B)

ThisoiloftencombinedwithFrankincenseformeditationandreflection.Onskinitisnurturingtomatureanddryskin,andofferssometighteningandsmoothingproperties.Thescentisdeep,earthy,andslightlybalsamic.

NUTMEG(T)

Thisoilhasasharp,spicy,andrathermuskyaroma.Ithasbeenshowntobeagoodanti-inflammatorythatissuccessfulinrelievingpain,especiallymuscularachesandpain,aswellasrheumatism.

ORANGE,SWEET(T)

Thisoil’sgentle,clarifyingnaturecheerstheheartandbrightensthemood.Itisagreatchoiceforoilyandcongestedskinwhereitcanhelpremoveexcessoilwithoutoverdrying.Itisalsoapopularoilforcleaningproducts.

PALMAROSA(B)

Thisoiliswell-knownforitsuseasanantiviral,duetoitishighgeraniolcontent.Geraniolisoneofthemostpowerfulofnature’santivirals.Onskin,itisgreatforsensitiveandantiagingblends.Thescentissweet,warm,slightlygreen,andbitroselike.Itisaniceadditiontoanyfloralblends.

PATCHOULI,DARK(B)

Thisoilhasaverycalmingeffectonemotions.Workswellondryskinandhair.Inscentblendsithelpsgivetheblendsomestayingpower.

PEPPERMINT(T)

Thisoilhasasoothingeffectonthenervoussystembyrelievingtensionandirritation.Itworkswellasadecongestant,helpingtoopenupcompletelyblockedsinuses.Greatheadachereliever.

PINENEEDLE(H)

Thisoilhasantimicrobialanddecongestingbenefits.Italsohelpsrelieveachesandpainsassociatedwithmuscletension.Thescentiswoody,butwithdepthandsweetness.

ROSEABSOLUTE(H)

Thisabsolutehasexcellentemollientandhydratingproperties,helpingtheskinstaysoftandproperlymoisturized.Itisalsoastimulatingoil,whichisgreatforfightingagingandmaintainingasoft,dewy,andyouthfulcomplexion.

ROSEMARY(T)

Thisoilisgreatfordetoxing,energy,aswellasanytreatmentproductsgearedtowardpainrelief.Thescentisherbaceousandwoodyandblendswellwithotherconifersandthemints.

SANDALWOOD(B)

Thisoilisknownforitssupportiveeffectontissue,beingeffectivefordry,chapped,crackedskin,rashes,andacne.Thescentissweetandwoodywithwarmandrichnotes.Italsohasadefinitemuskynote.

SPRUCE(T)

Thisoilhasdetoxingcapabilities,workingtoeliminatelacticacidbuildupintissue,whichisattheheartofaching,sore,muscles.Thescenthasaconiferousnoteandisclean,sweet,andslightlygreen.

TANGERINE(T)

Thisoilhasanupliftingandrefreshingeffectaswellasrelievingsomeanxietyandstress.Onskin,ithelpswithcleansingandkeepingoilyskinundercontrol.Thescentisbright,fresh,andsweet,andgivesblendsalift.

TEATREE(H)

Thisoilisanotheroneforthefirstaidkit.Itisoneofthemostactiveantisepticoilsavailable.Itsoothesinsectbites,calmsinflammation,actsasanimmunesystemstimulant,andisaneffectivebroadantimicrobialagentagainstbacteria,mold,andfungus.

VANILLACO2(B)

Thisisthecarbondioxideextractofthevanillabean.Vanillahasfewactualtherapeuticbenefits,butisimportantforitsfragrance.Itiscalming,soothing,anditworkswellinromanticandaphrodisiacblends.Thescentissmooth,sweet,andexotic.

VETIVER(B)

Thisoiliswell-knownforhavingacalmingeffectonthepsyche.Itisagreatchoiceforanyblendsgearedtowardmentalhealthordepression.Onskinitisgreatformature,damaged,anddryskin.Thescentisdeepandearthywithjustatouchofsweetness.Inperfumeryitisapowerfulscentfixative.

YLANGYLANG(H)

Thisoilisknownasarelaxationaidthatreducesstressandtension.Ontheskin,ylangylangoilhasasoothingeffectanditisoftenusedtoevenoutover-dryaswellasoverlyoilyskinbybalancingthesecretionofsebum.Itsdeepandexoticscenthasadefinitesweetnessandsmoothness,makingitpopularinperfumes.

RESOURCESThisisalistofsuppliersIuseinmyownbusinessandrecommend.Youwillnoticethattherearemanycompaniesthatarelistedundermultiplecategories.Ihavechosentolistsuppliersthiswaytohelpyoueasilyfindtheingredientforwhichyouarelooking.Manyofthesupplierslistedalsocarryitemsfromothercategoriesincludedherethatmaybeverygood,butsinceIhavenotusedthem,Icannotrecommendthem.

BEESWAXBEEHIVEALCHEMYwww.beehivealchemy.com2115N56thStMilwaukee,WI53208414-403-1993

DADANT&SONSwww.dadant.com51South2ndHamilton,IL62341888-922-1293

LYE(SODIUMHYDROXIDE)AAACHEMICALSwww.aaa-chemicals.com226TEXASCITYWYELaMarque,TX77568409-908-0070

BOYERCORPORATIONwww.boyercorporation.comP.O.Box10LaGrange,IL60525800-323-3040

WHOLESALESUPPLIESPLUSwww.wholesalesuppliesplus.com10035BroadviewRd.BroadviewHeights,OH44147800-359-0944

BASEOILSANDBUTTERSCOLUMBUSFOODS/SOAPERSCHOICEwww.soaperschoice.com30E.OaktonStreetDesPlaines,IL60018

800-322-6457Ext:8930

BRAMBLEBERRYwww.brambleberry.com2138HumboldtSt.,Bellingham,WA98225360-734-8278

WHOLESALESUPPLIESPLUSwww.wholesalesuppliesplus.com10035BroadviewRd.BroadviewHeights,OH44147800-359-0944

CAMDEN-GREYESSENTIALOILS,INCwww.camdengrey.com3567NW82AvenueDoral,FL33122305-500-9630

NEWDIRECTIONSAROMATICSwww.newdirectionsaromatics.com6781ColumbusRoadMississauga,Ontario,L5T2G9Canada800-246-7817

ESSENTIALOILSANDFRAGRANCEOILSAROMAHAVEN/RUSTICESCENTUALS,LLChttp://rusticescentuals.com1050CanaanRoadRoebuck,SC29376814-217-7113

NEWDIRECTIONSAROMATICSwww.newdirectionsaromatics.com6781ColumbusRoadMississauga,Ontario,L5T2G9Canada1-800-246-7817

WHITELOTUSAROMATICSwww.whitelotusaromatics.com941E.SnowlineDr.PortAngeles,WA98362360-452-9516

CAMDEN-GREYESSENTIALOILS,INCwww.camdengrey.com3567NW82AvenueDoral,FL33122US305-500-9630

CONTAINERSANDPACKAGINGSKSBOTTLES&PACKAGING,INCwww.sks-bottle.com26007thAvenueBuilding60WestWatervliet,NY12189518-880-6980

WHOLESALESUPPLIESPLUSwww.wholesalesuppliesplus.com10035BroadviewRd.BroadviewHeights,OH44147800-359-0944

BOTTLESANDMOREwww.bottlesandmore.com4523SunsetOaksDr.Paradise,CA95969530-872-2745

HERBSANDBOTANICALSMONTEREYBAYSPICECOwww.herbco.com241WalkerSt.,Watsonville,CA95076831-426-2808

ROCKYMOUNTAINSPICECOwww.rockymountainspice.com3850NomeSt.,Denver,CO80239303-308-8066

MOUNTAINROSEHERBSwww.mountainroseherbs.comP.O.Box50220Eugene,OR97405800-879-3337

SPECIALTYCOSMETICINGREDIENTSTHEHERBARIEATSTONEYHILLFARM,INC.www.theherbarie.comProsperity,SC29127803-364-9979

LOTIONCRAFTERwww.lotioncrafter.com532PointLawrenceRoadOlga,WA98279360-376-8008

INGREDIENTSTODIEFORwww.ingredientstodiefor.com5103-ACommercialParkDr.Austin,TX78724512-535-2711

MAJESTICMOUNTAINSAGEwww.thesage.com2490South1350WestNibley,UT84321435-755-0863

WHOLESALESUPPLIESPLUSwww.wholesalesuppliesplus.com10035BroadviewRd.BroadviewHeights,OH44147800-359-0944

BRAMBLEBERRYwww.brambleberry.com2138HumboldtSt.,Bellingham,WA98225360-734-8278

INTERNATIONALSUPPLIERSVOYAGEURSOAPANDCANDLECO.www.voyageursoapandcandle.com#14-19257EnterpriseWaySurrey,BCV3S6J8800-758-7773

GRACEFRUITwww.gracefruit.com146GlasgowRoad

Longcroft,Stirlingshire,FK41QL,UKTelephone:01324841353

THESOAPKITCHENwww.thesoapkitchen.co.ukTheSoapKitchenPlus(shop),11aSouthStreet,Torrington,Devon,EX388AA,UKTel:01805622221

SIDNEYESSENTIALOILCOMPANYwww.seoc.com.au11BurrowsRoadSouth,St.Peters,NSW2044Australia

NEWDIRECTIONSAUSTRALIAwww.newdirections.com.au47CarringtonRd.Marrickville,Sydney,NSW2204Australia

KOSMETISCHEROHSTOFFEhttp://www.kosmetische-rohstoffe.deKaiHabermannAmGrenzberg3463654BüdingenGermany

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

IwouldliketothankmyboyfriendKarlfordiscoveringhispassionforbeesandforfindingmystashofhandmadesoapsallthoseyearsago.ItwasthiscombinationofeventsthatledtobuildingBeehiveAlchemyintothebusinessitistoday.IwouldalsoliketothankMarthaStewart,who’sAmericanMadeprojectservedasajumping-offpointformanyoftheopportunitiesthatIhavehadtheprivilegetoparticipatein,inthelastyear,thewritingofthisbookbeingoneofthem.Lastly,theteamatQuarryBooksarealsodeservingofahugeThankYouforunderstandingmyneedforflexibilitytostilloperatebothmysoapandbeekeepingbusinesseswhilewritingthisbook.

ABOUTTHEAUTHOR

PETRAAHNERTistheownerandcreativeforcebehindBeehiveAlchemy.Shehasbeenmakingsoapsandbody-careproductsforclosetotwodecades,althoughtheuseofhoney,beeswaxandotherbee-relatedproductsonlycameintothepictureaftersheandherboyfrienddiscoveredbeekeepingin2004andanewbusinesswasborn.Shenowsellsherwaresonline(www.beehivealchemy.com)andatregionalcraftshowsandfarmers’markets.ShelivesinMilwaukee,Wisconsin,andkeepsbeesscatteredthroughoutsouthwestWisconsin.

INDEXAadvancedprojectsBeeswaxCream,64–65HoneyandBeeswaxSoap,76–77Honey,Oats,andBeeswaxSoap,78–79

All-PurposeSalve,58apricotoil,overview,121arnica,overview,126artBatik,104–109Encaustic,110–117

avocadooil,overview,121

BbalmsBasicLipBalm,44ChestRub,53CuticleBalm,50disposablecontainersfor,19HeelBalm,51IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61LipBalmwithButters,45SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67

BasicLipBalm,44BatikBatikDishTowels,108–109BatikNapkins,106–107beeswax/paraffinratio,105dyetechniques,105waxremoval,105

BeadingandSewing,100–101BeeswaxCream,64–65BeeswaxDippedLeaves,84–85BeeswaxFurniturePolish,93BeeswaxLuminaries,88–89BeeswaxOrnaments,82–83BeeswaxPineconeFirestarters,86–87beginnerprojectsAll-PurposeSalve,58BasicLipBalm,44BeeswaxDippedLeaves,84–85

BeeswaxFurniturePolish,93BeeswaxLuminaries,88–89BeeswaxOrnaments,82–83BeeswaxPineconeFirestarters,86–87BurnSalve,59ChestRub,52CrackedSkinSalve,58CuticleBalm,50CuttingBoardConditioner,90EncausticPainting,114–115Hand-DippedBirthdayCandles,40–41Hand-DippedTaperCandles,37–39HeelBalm,51IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61ItchSoother,59LipBalmwithButters,45LipGloss,46MassageBar,49NonpetroleumJelly,53OilHerbalInfusion,57RolledTaperCandles,23RosebudSalve,60SalveMasterRecipe,56SolidLotionBar,48SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67SolidWoodPolish,91ThreadConditioner,101VotiveCandles,29–30WaterproofSneakers,96–97WaxedCottonSandwichWraps,98–99WaxedFabric,94–95WoodConditionerCream,92Woodworker ’sSalve,60

benzoinoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

bergamotmintoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

bergamotoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

birchoil

ChestRub,52overview,128

bleachedwax,9,17,111broodwax,17BurnSalve,59

CcalendulablossomsAll-PurposeSalve,58BurnSalve,59CrackedSkinSalve,58ItchSoother,59overview,126

camphoroilChestRub,52IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61overview,128

candies,13candlesburntests,27flatteningbottomsof,35Hand-DippedBirthdayCandles,40–41Hand-DippedTaperCandles,37–39historyof,10MoldedPillarCandles,31–35molds,11,19,28–35RolledPillarCandles,24–25RolledTaperCandles,23RomanCatholicChurchand,10siliconemolds,11VotiveCandles,29–30waxfor,16wicks,26,27,32

CanelésdeBordeaux,13cappings,8,9,16,26castoroilBasicLipBalm,44HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(ColdProcessRecipe),76–77HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(HotProcessRecipe),78–79IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61LipGloss,46NonpetroleumJelly,53overview,121

ricinoleicacid,125SoapStarterRecipe,74–75

cedarwoodatlasoil,overview,128chamomileCrackedSkinSalve,58ItchSoother,59overview,126

chamomileoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

ChestRub,52chickweedleafAll-PurposeSalve,58overview,126

Chineseculture,10clarysageoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

clean-up,19,30cocoabutterEmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61lauricacidand,72LipBalmwithButters,45LipGloss,46MassageBar,49overview,120SolidLotionBar,48stearicacidand,124

coconutoilBasicLipBalm,44BeeswaxCream,64–65fractionatedcoconutoiland,122HeelBalm,51HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(ColdProcessRecipe),76–77HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(HotProcessRecipe),78–79overview,122SoapStarterRecipe,74–75SolidLotionBar,48SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67

comfreyleafandrootAll-PurposeSalve,58overview,126

Woodworker ’sSalve,60commercialbeekeeping,16corianderoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

CrackedSkinSalve,58crayons,13creamsBeeswaxCream,64–65disposablecontainersfor,19WoodConditionerCream,92

Crisco,74CuticleBalm,50CuttingBoardConditioner,90cypressoiloverview,128perfumeessentialoilblends,69

EEmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63emuoilHeelBalm,51overview,122

Encausticscollage,116–117masterbatch,112mixing,113paintingwith,114–115resinand,111waxfor,17,111

erucicacidjojobaoiland,122overview,125

eucalyptusoilChestRub,52IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61overview,129

e-waxBeeswaxCream,64–65EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63overview,124

Ffennel

overview,129perfumeessentialoilblends,69

filteredwax,9,16fractionatedcoconutoiloverview,122SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67

frankincenseoverview,129perfumeessentialoilblends,69

Ggadoleicacidjojobaoil,122overview,125

Germanchamomile,overview,126GermanchamomileoilCrackedSkinSalve,58overview,128

glassetching,13graftingwax,13grapefruitoilCuticleBalm,50overview,129

grapeseedoilAll-PurposeSalve,58OilHerbalInfusion,57overview,122

Hhand-dippedcandlescontainersfor,37Hand-DippedBirthdayCandles,40–41Hand-DippedTaperCandles,37–39

HeelBalm,51helichrysumoilItchSoother,59overview,129perfumeessentialoilblends,69

homeproductsBeadingandSewing,100–101BeeswaxDippedLeaves,84–85BeeswaxFurniturePolish,93BeeswaxLuminaries,88–89BeeswaxOrnaments,82–83

BeeswaxPineconeFirestarters,86–87CuttingBoardConditioner,90SolidWoodPolish,91ThreadConditioner,101WaterproofSneakers,96–97WaxedCottonSandwichWraps,98–99WaxedFabrics,94–95WoodConditionerCream,92

HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(ColdProcessRecipe),76–77HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(HotProcessRecipe),78–79

IIcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61intermediateprojectsBasicBurnTest,27BatikDishTowels,108–109BatikNapkins,106–107EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63EncausticCollage,116–117EncausticMasterBatch,112EncausticPaintMixing,113MoldedPillarCandles,31–35PerfumeEssentialOilBlends,69RolledPillarCandles,24–25SoapStarterRecipe,74–75SolidPerfumeMasterRecipe,68

ItchSoother,59

Jjojobaoiloverview,122SolidLotionBar,48SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67

juniperberryoil,overview,129

LlanolinBasicLipBalm,44BeeswaxCream,64–65CuticleBalm,50LipBalmwithButters,45overview,124

lavandinoilAll-PurposeSalve,58

overview,129lavenderAll-PurposeSalve,58overview,126

lavenderoilAll-PurposeSalve,58BurnSalve,59CrackedSkinSalve,58ItchSoother,59lavandinoiland,129overview,129perfumeessentialoilblends,69Woodworker ’sSalve,60

leather,waterproofing,12lecithinCuticleBalm,50overview,124

lemonoilCuticleBalm,50HeelBalm,51overview,129

linoleicacidapricotoiland,121avocadooiland,121castoroiland,121cocoabutterand,120emuoiland,122grapeseedoiland,122mangobutterand,120oliveoiland,122ricebranoiland,123saffloweroiland,123sesameoiland,123sheabutterand,120soybeanoiland,123sunfloweroiland,123sweetalmondoiland,123overview,125

lipbalmsBasicLipBalm,44LipBalmwithButters,45LipGloss,46

“lost-wax”casting,13

lye,72,73,74

MmangobutterBeeswaxCream,64–65CuticleBalm,50EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63overview,120SolidLotionBar,48

marshmallowrootItchSoother,59overview,127

MassageBar,49mentholcrystalsIcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61overview,129peppermintoiland,129

moldedcandlesMoldedPillarCandles,31–35VotiveCandles,29–30

myrrhoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

NNonpetroleumJelly,53nutmegoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

Ooleicacidapricotoiland,121avocadooiland,121castoroiland,121cocoabutterand,120emuoiland,122grapeseedoiland,122jojobaoiland,122mangobutterand,120oliveoiland,122overview,125ricebranoiland,123saffloweroiland,123

sesameoiland,123sheabutterand,120soybeanoiland,123sunfloweroiland,123sweetalmondoiland,123

OilHerbalInfusion,57oliveoilAll-PurposeSalve,58BurnSalve,59ChestRub,52CrackedSkinSalve,58HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(ColdProcessRecipe),76–77HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(HotProcessRecipe),78–79IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61ItchSoother,59OilHerbalInfusion,57oleicacidand,122overview,122palmiticacidand,122RosebudSalve,60SoapStarterRecipe,74–75Woodworker ’sSalve,60

optiphenBeeswaxCream,64–65EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63overview,124

orangeoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

Ppalmarosaoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

palmiticacidapricotoiland,121avocadooiland,121cocoabutterand,120coconutoiland,122emuoiland,122grapeseedoiland,122mangobutterand,120oliveoiland,122

overview,125ricebranoiland,123saffloweroiland,123sesameoiland,123sheabutterand,120soybeanoiland,123sunfloweroiland,123sweetalmondoiland,123

palmitoleicacidjojobaoiland,122overview,125sweetalmondoiland,123

pastilles,18patchoulioiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

pathogens,9peppermintoilCuticleBalm,50HeelBalm,51ItchSoother,59mentholcrystalsand,129overview,130

percentages,18PerfumeEssentialOilBlends,69pillarcandlescavitycorrection,34curing,35flatteningbottomsof,35foundations,26MoldedPillarCandles,31–35testing,27unmolding,34–35wicking,26

pineneedleoilCrackedSkinSalve,58overview,130

plantainleafAll-PurposeSalve,58BurnSalve,59CrackedSkinSalve,58overview,127Woodworker ’sSalve,60

Rricebranoil,overview,123ricinoleicacidcastoroiland,121overview,125

rolledcandlesRolledPillarCandles,24–25RolledTaperCandles,23squaring,26wicking,26

Romanchamomile.SeeGermanchamomile.roseabsoluteoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69RosebudSalve,60

rosemaryoverview,127Woodworker ’sSalve,60

rosemaryoilIcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61overview,130

rosemaryoleoresinBasicLipBalm,44overview,124SolidLotionBar,48

rustprevention,12

SsaffloweroilEmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63overview,123

salvesAll-PurposeSalve,58BurnSalve,59CrackedSkinSalve,58ItchSoother,59RosebudSalve,60SalveMasterRecipe,56Woodworker ’sSalve,60

sandalwoodoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

SaponificationRatio(SAP),72,74

self-heal,overview,127sesameoilMassageBar,49overview,123

sheabutterHeelBalm,51LipGloss,46overview,120SolidLotionBar,48

slumgum,9,17soapsCriscoand,74curing,75,77,79equipmentfor,73gelphase,75HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(ColdProcessRecipe),76–77HoneyandBeeswaxSoap(HotProcessRecipe),78–79lye,72,73,74,77molds,73,75,77,79protectivegear,73SaponificationRatio(SAP),72,74StarterRecipe,74–75tracestage,75

solidbody-carebarsCuticleBalm,50HeelBalm,51MassageBar,49SolidLotionBar,48

SolidNaturalPerfumesPerfumeEssentialOilBlends,69SolidPerfumeBaseBalmRecipe,67SolidPerfumeMasterRecipe,68

SolidWoodPolish,91soybeanoilCuticleBalm,50overview,123

spruceoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

stearicacidapricotoiland,121avocadooiland,121BeeswaxCream,64–65

cocoabutterand,120emuoiland,122grapeseedoiland,122jojobaoiland,122mangobutterand,120oliveoiland,122overview,124,125ricebranoiland,123saffloweroiland,123sesameoiland,123sheabutterand,120sunfloweroiland,123sweetalmondoiland,123

St.John’swortCrackedSkinSalve,58overview,127

sunfloweroilLipBalmwithButters,45overview,123

sweetalmondoilapricotoiland,121BasicLipBalm,44EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63HeelBalm,51LipGloss,46OilHerbalInfusion,57overview,123SolidLotionBar,48

sweetorangeoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

TT-50,overview,124tangerineoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

teatreeoilCrackedSkinSalve,58IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61overview,130

ThreadConditioner,101thyme

ItchSoother,59overview,127

VvanillaCO2oil,overview,130vetiveroiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

vitaminEBasicLipBalm,44BeeswaxCream,64–65ChestRub,52CuticleBalm,50EmulsifyingSugarScrub,62–63HeelBalm,51IcyJoint&MuscleBalm,61LipBalmwithButters,45NonpetroleumJelly,53OilHerbalInfusion,57overview,125SalveMasterRecipe,56SolidLotionBar,48

VotiveCandles,29–30

WWaterproofSneakers,96–97waxancientEgyptiansand,10beesand,8bleachedwax,9broodwax,17candlewax,16cappings,8,9,16Chinesecultureand,10cleaningup,19compoundsin,8creationof,8filtering,9,16,17freezing,19honeyand,8,9,16honeycombs,8hunter-gatherersand,10meltingpointof,8,19modernusesof,11–13

moldsizes,18pastilles,18pathogensand,9processing,16protectingsurfacesfrom,19RomanCatholicChurchand,10scales,8slumgum,9,17specificgravityof,8temperaturesand,8whitewax,17

WaxedCottonSandwichWraps,98–99WaxedFabrics,94–95whitewax,17wicking,26,27,32WoodConditionerCream,92Woodworker ’sSalve,60

Yylangylangoiloverview,130perfumeessentialoilblends,69

DEDICATIONThisbookisdedicatedtothebeesandthewarriorswhoseetotheirprotection;andtomyparents,whoinstilledinmealoveandcuriosityofcreatureslargeandsmall.

©2015QuarryBooks

FirstpublishedintheUnitedStatesofAmericain2015byQuarryBooks,amemberofQuartoPublishingGroupUSAInc.100CummingsCenterSuite406-LBeverly,Massachusetts01915-6101Telephone:(978)282-9590Fax:(978)283-2742www.quarrybooks.comVisitwww.Craftside.netforabehind-the-scenespeekatourcraftyworld!

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionofthecopyrightowners.Allimagesinthisbookhavebeenreproducedwiththeknowledgeandpriorconsentoftheartistsconcerned,andnoresponsibilityisacceptedbytheproducer,publisher,orprinterforanyinfringementofcopyrightorotherwise,arisingfromthecontentsofthispublication.Everyefforthasbeenmadetoensurethatcreditsaccuratelycomplywithinformationsupplied.Weapologizeforanyinaccuraciesthatmayhaveoccurredandwillresolveinaccurateormissinginformationinasubsequentreprintingofthebook.

Digitaleditionpublishedin2015

Digitaledition:978-1-62788-160-9Softcoveredition:978-1-59253-979-6

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataavailable

Design:BurgeAgencyPhotography:DanBishopPhotography