Braiding and Braid Extensions

Chapter 18

Learning Objectives

• Know the general history of braiding.

• Recognize braiding basics and the importance of a consultation.

• Explain how to prepare the hair for braiding.

• Describe the six types of braiding techniques.

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Learning Objectives (continued)

• Demonstrate the procedure for cornrowing.

• Explain the techniques for textured sets and styles.

• Demonstrate the procedures for starting locks and lock grooming.

Introduction

• This art form can require an enormous investment of time, with some elaborate styles taking up to an entire day to complete.

• Braiding salons have sprung up in many areas in the United States.

• These salons practice what is commonly known as natural hairstyling, which uses no chemicals or dyes, and does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern of the hair.

Understand the Basics of Braiding

Braiding and textured hairstyling

consultation• Hair and scalp analysis• Texture determination• Elasticity and porosity test• Style determination• Product recommendations

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Hair and Scalp Analysis

• Diameter of hair• Feel• Texture determination• Density• Condition• Length

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Hair and Scalp Analysis (continued)

• Style determination• Product recommendations• Scalp health• Porosity• Elasticity

Tools for Braiding

• Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush)• Square paddle brush• Vent brush• Wide-tooth comb• Double-tooth comb• Locking/twist comb• Tail comb• Finishing comb• Cutting comb

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Tools for Braiding (continued)

• Pick with rounded teeth• Blowdryer with comb nozzle attachment• Diffuser• Five-inch scissors• Long clips• Butterfly and small clips• Hood dryer• Steamer• Small rubber bands, clear elastic bands, or string

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Tools for Braiding (continued)

Implements and Materials for Extensions

• Extension fibers

• Hackle

• Drawing board

Materials for Extensions

• Human hair• Kanekalon• Nylon or rayon synthetic

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• Yarn

• Lin

• Yak

Materials for Extensions (continued)

Prepare the Hair for Braiding

• Dry is best for braiding.

• Shrinkage as hair dries can cause breakage.

• Allow for shrinkage when braiding wet.

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• Shampoo first.• Towel-blot without rubbing.• Apply leave-in conditioner.• Detangle from ends to scalp.• Blowdry hair.• Use pomade, gel, or lotion to hold.• Brush with a paddle brush beginning at the ends.

Prepare the Hair for Braiding (continued)

Blowdrying the Hair

• Dries hair quickly.

• Softens hair.

• Loosens and elongates wave pattern.

• Aids manipulation process.

Braid the Hair

• Visible braid

• Invisible braid

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Braid the Hair (continued)

• Rope braid• Fishtail braid• Halo braid

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Braid the Hair (continued)

• Single braids

• Single braids with extensions

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• Cornrows• Cornrows with extensions

Braid the Hair (continued)

Tree Braids

• Hair is braided with an extension.

• Finished look shows mostly faux hair.

• Process takes about four hours.

• Two methods– Tying Individual strands in place about an inch

from scalp area.– Adding long pieces of hair to cornrows.

• Bantu knot Or Nubian knot• Bantu knot-out style• Braid-out set• Flat-twist• Glamour waves• Spiral rod sets

Classify Textured Sets and Styles

Coil Styles

• Coils or comb twists– The Nubian coils comb technique

• Coil-Out

Twist Styles

• Twist set• Twist-out style

Locks

• Also known as dreadlocks or locs.• Separate networks of curly, textured hair that

have been intertwined and meshed together. • Achieved without the use of chemicals. • Several slow phases, which can take from six

months to a year depending on the length, density, and coil pattern of the hair.

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• The coil comb technique• The palm roll• Braids or extensions• Sisterlocks

Locks (continued)

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Summary and Review

• Natural hairstyling which uses no chemicals or dyes, and does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern of the hair, has become popular with people of all ethnicities who can appreciate the beauty and versatility of their natural hair texture.

• Braiding the hair is an art form and it can take many hours to complete but these complex styles; with proper care, they can last up to three months, with six to eight weeks being preferable.

• The investment in time and money is high for both the client and stylist. After you spend hours braiding a client’s hair, the last thing you want is to have the client reject it and demand that all the braids be re-moved.

• All professional cosmetologists should be prepared to work with every type of hair texture and hairstyle trend.

• Working with braid extensions exposes cosmetologists to the fundamental techniques of adding hair extensions, which is another lucrative service for the stylist and the salon.

Chapter Review Questions

1. What is the most effective way to prepare hair for braiding?

2. What are the steps in creating basic corn rows?

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3. List several types of braiding techniques.

4. Name and describe several textured sets and styles.

Chapter Review Questions (continued)

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5. Name and describe the developmental stages of locks.

Chapter Review Questions (continued)