Post on 15-Jan-2016
transcript
CHAPTER 11
PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND
SCALP2012 Edition
Q. What are the two
ADD: chief purposes of hair?
A.Protection
B. Adornment
Add to the side bar:
Hair is an appendage of the skin
http://beautyeditor.ca/2009/10/27/save-vs-splurge-argan-oil-hair-treatments/
TRICOLOGY
scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care
comes from Greek words:
Trichos=hair
ology=the study of
Integumentary System
~the outer covering that encloses the entire
bodyincludes the hair, skin, nails, and glands
***is the largest and
fastest growing organ
bodyhttp://images.google.com/imgres?q=cross+section+of+skin+diagram&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1008&bih=588&tbm=isch&tbnid=1HN3S_H2yA6bwM:&imgrefurl=http://www.elcosh.org/en/document/322/d000303/contact-derm-toolbox-talk.html&docid=0S3J3vPqFij8MM&imgurl=http://www.elcosh.org/record/document/322/image3.jpg&w=280&h=323&ei=75yuTsGlBYbn0QGeheXHDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=534&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbnh=105&tbnw=91&start=15&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:15&tx=49&ty=84
STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR
hair is divided into two parts:
Hair shaft
~projects above the epidermis
Hair root
~located below the surface of the epidermis (outer
layer of the skin)
Structures of the Hair Root
The main structures are:
Follicle
Bulb
Dermal papilla
Arrector pili muscle
Sebaceous glands
Follicle
~ tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp
~ contains the hair root
~ distributed all over the body
~ except
*palms of the hands
*soles of the feet
~ multiple hairs/one follicle
The follicle
“Tunnel” epidermis (outer layer of the skin)
dermis (inner layer
of the skin)
Surrounds
the
dermal
papilla Internet source: acne-site.com
Hair bulb-the lowest area or part of the hair strand.thickened, club-shaped part of the hair root
fits over and covers the
dermal papillaInternet
source:
Missinglink.ucsf.edu
Dermal papilla
~ cone-shaped elevation
~ base of the hair follicle
~ fits into hair bulb.
contains the blood and nerve supply
provides nutrients
“mother of the hair”
Arrector pili:
small, involuntary muscle
~ base of the hair follicle.
Strong emotions(fear)
or cold
~ contracts
“goose bumps”www.unexpectedpages.com/.../goosebumps.jpg
Sebaceous glands
~ oil glands
~ connected to the hair follicles.
~ secretes oily substance
~ sebum
~ lubricates
Sebaceous gland
Structures of the Hair Shaft
Three main layers
1. Cuticle
~ outermost layer of hair
~ overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells
~ shingles on a roof
~provides a barrier/protects inner structure
~lies tightly against the cortex
~ creates shine, smooth silky feel
**Show----Feel hair strand (both ways)hair’s primary defense against damage
Internet source:
the gentle touch.com
Individual cuticle scales are attached to the cortex
***The hair has only one cuticle layer
Q. Why are we cautioned that there is only one cuticle layer?
Swelling the hair:
~ raises the cuticle layer
~ opens the space between the scales
~allows liquids to penetrate
Haircolor, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline (base) pH to penetrate
the cuticle layer
Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex
Q. Is haircolor spelled correctly?
Internet source:
Hairdressersus.com
Damaged cuticle
Cortex-is the middle layer of the hair
~ fibrous protein
~elongated cells
~melanin pigment
Q. What does the word melanin mean?
~ elasticity of the hair
~ natural color
~ located in the cortex
all changes (physical or chemical) take place within the cortex
Activity: With a partner list on paper (be specific)
Q. Determine what services create aphysical change to the hair and which ones create a chemical change to the hair.2 people from each table write two answers on flip chart paper
Answer:
Physical-wet setting (rollers, pin curls, finger waves), thermal styling (includes blow drying, curling iron, flat iron, hot rollers, press and curl)
Chemical-permanent haircolor, hair lightening, permanent waving, chemical relaxing
Internet source:
Hairdressersus.com
Womensnet.com
In book- page222
Medulla-the inner most layer
~ composed of round cells
*missing medulla
~ very fine hair
~ naturally blonde hair
~coarse hair contains a medulla
Internet source:
Ecobyte.com.au
Bfro.net
All beard hair contains a medullanot involved in salon services
Add to side bar:
Barba-hair of the face
Capilli-hair on the head
Cilia-hair of the eyelashes
Supercilia-hair of the eyebrows
THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
composed of protein in the hair follicle ADD: keratin
This is where the hair shaft begins
living cells form
journey upward through the hair follicle
process called keratinization.
As the cells mature
~ fill up with a fibrous protein
~keratin
~move upward
Killerstrands.blogspot.com
~ lose their nucleus
~ die
~ emerges from the scalp,
~ cells are keratinized
~ no longer living
~ nonliving fiber of keratinized protein
~ 90% protein
~protein made up of long chains of amino acids
Main elements: (chemical composition)
Carbon
Oxygen
Hydrogen
Nitrogen
Sulfurhttp://images.google.com/imgres?q=cohn%27s+elements+of+the+periodic+table&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=596&tbm=isch&tbnid=dUwFPL6QxJELcM:&imgrefurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/courses/bio104/atom-h2o.htm&docid=ML-VeqpxKSgnnM&imgurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/graphics/bio104/periodic.jpg&w=400&h=298&ei=WayuToiFA8O1gweb_b3KDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=287&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbnh=106&tbnw=141&start=16&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:16&tx=61&ty=70
Referred to as the COHNS elements
Also found in skin and nails
Add: chemical composition
Top of page shows the % of each element.
Amino acids- long chains of protein
•joined together like pop beads (candy
necklace) The chemical bond
that joins the amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond
or end bond.
•A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a
polypeptide.•spiral shape of coiled protein is called a helix.
Activity:
Do helix project
http://scienceray.com/biology/proteins/
THE SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
•made up of millions of polypeptide chains
•Polypeptide chains are cross-linked by three different
types of side bonds:
Responsible for:
•Extreme strength
•Elasticity
Essential to:
•Wet sets
•Thermal styling
•Permanent waving
•Chemical hair relaxing
Three types 0f Side Bonds:
•Hydrogen bonds
•Salt bonds
•Disulfide bonds
Q. In the chart, what can be said about the three types of bonds?
Backreaction.blogspot.com
Easily broken by water or heat
Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength
Hydrogen bond
weak physical side bond
Wetting the hair:
•Allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers/rods
•Reforms when the hair dries
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=roller+sets+on+natural+hair&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=J1FgFtlgpV86eM:&imgrefurl=http://afropeanqueen.blogspot.com/2011/03/roller-set-re-done-and-hair-length.html&docid=tTmufLTEb1XB1M&imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0a8SssYfC6c/TY-912zvlcI/AAAAAAAAAbM/HqHSoMDKDW8/s1600/DSCN0672.JPG&w=1200&h=1600&ei=T0T9TpeTHZPAgAfKrp2XAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=611&vpy=185&dur=868&hovh=259&hovw=194&tx=108&ty=139&sig=115570578519706265263&page=10&tbnh=126&tbnw=103&start=171&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:171
Salt bond
weak physical side bond
Depend on pH
Easily broken by
-strong alkaline or acidic solutions
Accounts for 1/3 of hair’sstrength
Disulfide bond
~strong chemical side bondaccounts for 1/3 overall strength
Not broken by heat or water
Broken by:
~ permanent waves
~ chemical relaxers
~alters the shape of the hair
Thio permanent waves (base)
~ break the disulfide bonds
~ reformed by thio neutralizer (acid)
Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers
~ break disulfide bonds
~ bonds are broken permanently
(becomes lanthionine bond)
~ can never be reformed
Go over Figure 11-7 and 11-8
Read: Table 11-2 top of page
Read: Did you know-next page
Hair Pigment:
~ pigment located in the cortex
Melanin
~ tiny grains of pigment
~ cortex
The two main types:
1. Eumelanin
brown and black
2. Pheomelanin
red /ginger
yellow/blonde
~result: natural hair color- ratio of both
Wave PatternRefers to the shape of the hair strand
Described as:
•straight
•wavy
• curly
• extremely curly
result of genetics
General rule:
Asians
~extremely straight hair
Caucasians
~straight to wavy hair
African Americans
~extremely curly hair
all wave patterns
~ in all races
vary from strand to strand
~ same person’s head
theories to explain the cause of natural curly hair
One theory-the shape of the cross-section (round, oval, flat), determines the amount of curl, however, the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl.
Another theory-the result of one side of the hair strand growing faster than the other side, tension with in the strand causes the long side to curl around the short side. (not proven)
Extremely Curly Hair
long twisted spirals
coiled hair
~fine texture
low elasticity
breaks easily
~tendency to knot
gentle scalp manipulations
conditioning shampoos
detangling rinses help
HAIR GROWTH
Two main types of hair
Vellus (or lanugo)
Terminal
Vellus or lanugo hair:
Short
~ fine
~unpigmented
~downy
Almost never has a medula
Found on infants/children until puberty
On adults: found on places considered hairless
~forehead
~ eyelids
~ bald scalp
•Nearly all other areas
Except:
~ palms of hands
~ soles of feet
Hairireland.ie
•Helps in evaporation of perspiration
Terminal hair:
Long, coarse, pigmented hair
~ scalp
~ legs
~ arms
~ males and females
Coarser than vellus hair
Is pigmented
~ except gray hair
~ usually has a medulla
Hormone changes
~ during puberty
~ vellus hair replaced
~ thicker terminal hair
Hair follicles produce
~ vellus or
~ terminal hair
Depends
~ genetics
~ age
~ hormonal changes
THE GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR
occurs in cycles---three phases
repeated over and over again
Anagen-growth phase
Catagen-transition phase
Telogen-resting phase
Anagen: The Growth Phase
New hair produced
New cells produced in Follicle
Hair cells are produced faster
Average growth
~ ½ inch per month
~rate of growth varies…read
About 90% of hair
~ in Anagen phase
~ lasts 3-5 years
~ to 10 years
Catagen: The Transition Phase
Brief transition period
Between the growth and resting phases
~ signals the end of growth
~ follicle canal shrinks
~ detaches from the dermal papilla
Hair bulb disappears
Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time
Very short,
lasts 1-2 weeks
Internet source:
Hairrestoration.com
Telogen : the Resting Phase
Final phase
Lasts until the fully grown hair is shed
or until the next new hair pushes out the old
10% in this phase
Lasts 3-6 months
Returns to Anagen phase
Cycle begins again
Repeats every 4-5 years
Ukhairdressers.comwww.agelesszonereno.com/about_ageless_zone_sp...
Myths:
Shaving, etc:
no effect on hair growth
Scalp massage:
no evidence
Gray hair more resistant
same as pigmented hair (I beg to differ)
Natural curl determined by race:
anyone can have any degree of curl
HAIR LOSS
Normal daily hair loss
~ three phases
Average daily hair loss
~ 75-100 hairs (this is the answer we want)
Information we want you to know:
Write on the side: Facts
•The average life span of hair is 4-6 years
•Everyone sheds 75-100 hairs per day
•Hair does not grow after death
•Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4-5 months
FYI: Causes of Hair Loss
Poor circulation Stress
Thyroid disease High blood pressure
Iron deficiency Pregnancy
Liver malfunction Chemotherapy
B & vitamin deficiencies Skin Disease
Large doses of Vitamin A High fever
Cholesterol Sudden weight loss
Alcohol and caffeineMedications
Psychemedics.com
THE EMOTIONAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS
medical community
~ not a medical condition
anguish
~ very real
~ overlooked
Bald men are perceived as:
•Less physically attractive (by both sexes)
•Less assertive
•Less successful
•Less personally likeable
•Older (by about 5 years)
How shallow we can be???
Bald men perceive themselves:
Experience negative
~ social and emotional effects
Preoccupied with their baldness
Make effort
~ conceal
~ compensate
For women
~ very traumatic
~ devastating
~ feel anxious
~ helpless
~ less attractive
63 million people in US
~ suffer from abnormal hair loss (alopecia)
you will be the first person that a hair loss sufferer will confide in
understand…
~types of hair loss
~products and services available
TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIR LOSS
Abnormal hair loss
~alopecia
Most common types are:
Androgenic alopecia
Alopecia areata
Postpartum alopecia
Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia
miniaturization of terminal hair
*converting it to vellus hair
The result
~ genetics (heredity)
~ age
~ hormonal changes
Can begin in the teens
~frequently by 40
male pattern baldness
horseshoe-shaped
fringe
In women
~ generalized thinning
~ crown area
Sacimdokuluyor.com
Sacimdokuluyor.com
Healthhype.com
Add to side bar:
Alopecia Senilis:
baldness due to old age
Alopecia Prematura:
baldness that begins before middle age
autoimmune disease
~ hair follicles
~ attacked by immune system
White blood cells
~ stop hair growth
(anagen phase)
Alopecia areata
FYI- just know
sudden falling out
~ patches
~ baldness in spots
scalp and body
(In book) unpredictable skin disease
Add to side bar:
Possible cause: flairs up with stress and trauma
Associatedcontent.com
Usually begins
~ one or more
~ round, small
~ smooth patches on the scalp
Can progress total scalp hair loss
~ alopecia totalis
males and females
~ begins in childhood
~ no signs of inflammation
~ no skin disorder or disease
Or complete body hair loss
~ alopecia universalis
POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA
Temporary hair loss ~experienced at the end of a
pregnancy
Very little hair loss during pregnancy
Sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months after
delivery
Returns to normal within one year
Internet source Ezinearticles.com
FYI Estrogen stimulates hair follicles
~ anagen growing phase
~ hair does not cycle as it normally would.
***After child is born
~ estrogen level drops
~ hair enters the catagen and telogen phase
~ very traumatic
~ returns to normal
one year
Add to side bar:
Telogen Effluvium:
Premature shedding in resting phase
Possible causes:
difficult childbirth fever
shock drug intake
crash diets
Add to side bar:
Traumatic Alopecia:
Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting
Possible causes:
~ excessive application of chemicals
(perms/relaxers)
~ excessive use of hot combs
HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS
Minoxidil and Finasteride
~ have been proven to stimulate hair growth
~ approved by FDA
Minoxidil
~ topical medication
~ applied to scalp
~ twice a day
www.thehairlossclinicstore.com/store/media/mi...
Sold O-T-C
~ men and women
~ 2% or 5% strength
~ no known side effects
Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father Fact:
Both parent's genes are a factor.
Androgenetic alopecia is genetically-linked hair thinning.
Internet source: Myths and facts about hair loss:
Myth: (not in book) (do not add)
Teasing, using hair color, other products, or frequently washing hair increases hair loss.
Fact: Normal hair care doesn't affect hair loss.
Finasteride
~ oral prescription medication
~ for men only
~ more effective
~ more side effects
~ women can not use
~ pregnant women
causes birth defects
Surgical options:
Transplant or hair plugs
~ removing small sections of hair
~ follicle, papilla, and bulb from the back
~ transplanting in the bald area.
Internet source:
Hairtransplantnetwork.com
The bulb grows normally in the new location
Surgeons
Several surgeries
$8,000-$20,000
Add to side bar:
medical treatment
scalp reduction
Internet source:
Newhair.com
Howstuffworks.com
non-surgical/non-medical hair replacements:
~ wigs
~ toupees
~ hair weaving
~ hair extensions
Learn to fit
~ color
~ cut
~ style wigs and toupees
Weavings and extensions
~ enhance client’s natural hair
~ boosts their self-esteem
Internet source:
Madeinchina.com
Wigsontop.com
Jewel-and-jewel.com
Beasbraiding.com
DISORDERS OF THE HAIR
CANITIES
~ gray hair
~ loss of the natural melanin pigment
~ same as pigmented hair
Two types:
Congenital Canities
~ exists at or before birth
~ occurs in albinos
~ can be patchy
Add:
Albino-person born with no coloring matter, resulting in white hair
Acquired Canities
~ develops with age
~ result of genetics.
~ may develop
* worry
* anxiety
* prolonged illness
Ringed hair
~ alternating bands
~ gray and pigmented hair
~ length of hair strand
Hypertrichosis
~ hirsuities
~ abnormal growth of hair
~ terminal hair in areas of vellus hair
~ mustache or light beard on women
Remember: Hyper=excess hair
On test: Superflous- more than usual
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=LE6TnepyUWAFwM:&imgrefurl=http://ahsmediacenter.pbworks.com/w/page/1991874/Hypertrichosis-%2520Introduction%2520and%2520Types%2520-%25202&docid=V01tUYVOrCsSeM&imgurl=http://img.tfd.com/wiki/3/3e/Hypertrichosis.jpg&w=350&h=505&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=473&vpy=138&dur=2681&hovh=270&hovw=187&tx=114&ty=160&sig=115570578519706265263&page=1&tbnh=104&tbnw=72&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=61rXe3OxJwVplM:&imgrefurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/hirsute-women.html&docid=02f8UUb6lxn_1M&imgurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/images/Hirsute_Women_01.jpg&w=314&h=235&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=214&sig=115570578519706265263&page=5&tbnh=124&tbnw=157&start=72&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:9,s:72&tx=103&ty=92
treatments include
~electrolysis ~photoepilation
~laser hair removal
~tweezing ~shaving
~electronic tweezers
~depilatories
~threading ~sugaring
Trichoptilosis
split ends
treatments:
~ conditioning to soften
~ remove by cutting
Remember: Chop=needs cutting or “chop off”
Trichorrhexis Nodosa
knotted hair
~ brittleness
~ formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft
~ hair breaks easily
~ broken fibers spread out like a brush along hair shaft
Treatments:
~ conditioners
~ moisturizers
Remember: Trichorrhexis nodosa
-Needs correcting
-nodosa-nodules
Monilethrix
beaded hair
~ breaks easily between the beads or nodes
Treatments:
~ hair and scalp conditioning
Fragilitas crinium
brittle hair
~ may split at any part of their length
Treatment:
~ hair and scalp conditioning
~cutting above the split to prevent further damage
Remember: Fragile=brittle
segal.koreanbusiness.co.kr/.../book-photo3.gif
DISORDERS OF THE SCALP
outer layer
~ shed
~ replaced by new cells
Healthy, normal scalp cells fall off naturally
~ small, dry flakes
~ without being noticed
dry scalp-(not dandruff)
~ flakes much smaller
~ less noticeable flakes
contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age
worse in cold, dry climates
Medical term for dandruff:
Pityriasis
excessive production and accumulation of skin cells
large visible clumps of cells
dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia
Malassezia
naturally occurring fungus
present on all human skin
symptoms when it grows out of control
stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause symptoms to worsen
antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents
~pyrithione zinc (professional and OTC)
~selenium sulfide (Selson Blue)
~ketoconazole (OTC-Nizoral)
suppresses the growth of malassezia hairbeautycollections.com.a
u
Pyrithione zinc is gentle enough to be used everyday
color-treated hair
frequent use is essential
Nature.com
Mild,moderate,severe cases
School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious. Mrs. Kucas and I feel that dandruff is contagious. (contradicts your book)
***Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disorder
Two principal types:
Pityriasis capitis simplex:
•technical term for classic dandruff
ADD: dry dandruff
•scalp irritation
•large {thin} flakes
• itchy scalp
Scales may:
•attach to the scalp in masses
•scatter loosely in the hair
•fall to the shoulders
Add to side bar:
Dry dandruff is the result of a sluggish scalp caused by:
• poor circulation
• lack of nerve stimulation
• improper diet
•emotional and glandular disturbances
•poor personal hygiene
Treatments include:
antidandruff shampoos
conditioners
“medicated” topical lotions
“Antiseptic” scalp lotions
scalp treatments
regular scalp massage
Add: medicated/antiseptic
Pityriasis steatoides
•more severe
•accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales
•mixed with sebum
•stick to the scalp in patches or crusts
•When accompanied by redness and inflammation is:
“seborrheic dermatisis”
(if torn off bleeding or oozing of the sebum results)
•Can be found in eyebrows/beards
•Client with these two conditions (Pityriasis steatoides and seborrheic dermatitis) must be referred to a physician for medical treatment
FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA)
TINEA
•ringworm
•itching, scales, and sometimes, painful circular lesions
•Several may be present at the same time
•A fungal (vegetable) organism is not an animal parasite
Rancocasvalley.com
•All forms are contagious
•Easily transmitted
FYI: Infected skin scales and hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease
•Bathtubs
•Swimming pools
•Unsanitary personal articles
•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of
this disease***Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment
Tinea barbae (barber’s itch)
•Infection resulting from hair services
•Mustache and beard
•Similar to tinea capitis in appearance
•Do not perform services!!!
•Refer to physician
dermis.net
dermatology.cdlib.org
TINEA CAPITIS
Add to side bar: Ringworm of the scalp
• Characterized by red papules, or spots
•at opening of the hair follicles
•patches spread
~hair brittle and lifeless
•hair often breaks off
•leaving only a stump
•may be shed from the enlarged open follicle
visualdx
Tinea favosa/ Tinea Favus
Add to side bar:
honeycomb ringworm
•dry
•sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts
•on the scalp called scutula
•distinctive odor
Scars: bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny
ADD:very contagious-refer to physician
Doctorfungus.org
Tinea capitis
Tinea favosa
SCABIES
•itch is a highly contagious skin disease
•itch mite burrowing under the skin
ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS
•vesicles (blisters)
•pustules (inflamed pimples with pus)
•usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this animal parasite
•excessive itching makes the condition worse
Stanford.edu
Stanford.edu
Commonswikimedia.org
Tunnel/burrow of parasite
Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment
•Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread
of this disease
PEDICULOSIS CAPITIS
•infestation
~ hair and scalp
~ head lice
•feed on the scalp
~ dead skin cells
•itching
~ scratching can cause an infection
•transmitted
Pedistrics.about.com
Headlicetrix.com
Pediatrics.about.com
Media.acbnews.com
Pediatrics.about.com
Pediatrics.about.com
img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg
img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg
Empty shell left after lice hatch
cm.edu.qt
howtodo101.com/.../
• contact with infested hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles
•you can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking
closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass
• Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease
•Do not perform a service on anyone who has head lice
• Several nonprescription medications are available
•Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician or pharmacist
FYI
Recently on the news, they reported that the lice are becoming resist to the shampoos that kill the lice. This means the lice will be much harder or impossible to get rid of.
STAPHYLOCOCCI INFECTIONS
•Are bacteria that infect the skin or scalpFuruncle:
• boil is an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain
• limited to a specific area
• produces a pustule perforated by a hair
Onlinehealthbook.com
Carbuncle:
•inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue
~ caused by staphylococci
•similar to furuncle only larger
Missinglinkucsf.edu
• Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of these
disease
•Do not perform services
Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment
HAIR ANALYSIS
all services begin:
~analysis of client’s hair type
~condition
*determines the results that can be expected from the service
different types of hair
~react differently to the same service
performed prior to all salon services
Factors:
texture
elasticity
porosity
density
growth pattern
dryness/oiliness
HAIR TEXTURE
thickness or diameter
~ individual hair strand
coarse
medium
fine
different areas of the head
~may have different textures
Coarse texture
large diameter
more resistant
requires more processing time
*hair lighteners *permanent waves
*haircolors *chemical relaxers
styletips101.com
Medium texture
most common
considered normal (standard)
does not pose any special problems or
concerns
your-hairstyles.com
Fine texture
smallest diameter
fragile
easier to process
more susceptible to damage from chemical services short-hair-style.com
Determined
~ by feeling a single dry strand
~ between the fingersTake an individual strand from:
• Front hairline
• The temple
• The crown
• The nape
hold the strand securely
~ feel it with the thumb and forefinger of the
other handfeel the difference between
~ coarse
~ medium
~ fine Read “Focus on”
HAIR DENSITY
measures
~ number of individual hair strands
~ on one square inch
how many on one person’s head
Classified as:
Low textbook Thin
Medium Medium
High Thick
Mrs. Kucas
Mrs. Mandato
same hair texture
~different densities
i.e.
Coarse hair texture
~ low density (thin)
fine hair texture
~ high density (thick)
average hair density
~ 2,200 hairs per square inchaverage head
~ 100,000 hairs
~ varies with the color
blondes high density
redheads lowest
Table 11-4
Q. How do we determine what the amount of density is?
a. Use fingers to feel the hair
b. Look at the scalp area
c. Ask the client how dense they think their hair is
d. Ask another stylist to help us decide
HAIR POROSITY
ability of the hair to absorb moisture
condition of the cuticle layer
compact cuticle layer
~ resistant to penetration
referred to as Hydrophobic
(phobic---does not like)
porous hair/raised cuticle
~ easily absorbs moisture
~Referred to as Hydrophilic
(philic---attracted to)
low porosity
~ resistant
~ more alkaline solution
~ longer processing time
alkaline solutions
~ raise the cuticle
permit uniform
~ saturation and processing
Average/normal porosity
~ considered normal
~ processes as expected
*according to the texture
High porosity
~ overly porous
~ result of over processing
~ damaged
~ dry
~ fragile and brittle
~ less alkaline solutions (lower pH)
POROSITY TEST
dry hair (I like clean, towel dried hair)
one inch patch
hold strand securely
Technicurl.com
*slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand
*3-4” from the end
*to the scalp three times
Determining the results:
no hair or nearly no hair
~very resistant
small amount
~resistant
medium amount
~average or normal
a lot of hair comes down=porous
most of the hair comes
down=overly porous
Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair?
Q. What four areas of the head should be checked?
Textbook: 3 descriptions
Low (resistant)
Average
Highly porous
Mrs. Kucas/Mrs. Mandato: 5 descriptions
Add:
Very resistant
Resistant
Normal/average
Porous
Highly/very porous
HAIR ELASTICITY
Ability of the hair to
~stretch and return
~original length
~without breaking
Indication of the strength of the side bonds
wet hair with normal elasticity
~ stretch up to 50% of its original length
~ return without breaking
Dry hair stretches 20%
***will hold the curl from wet sets and permanent waves
low elasticity:
~ brittle
~ breaks easily
does not hold curl
low elasticity
~ overprocessedmilder solution
~ lower pH
ELASTICITY TEST
Check elasticity
~wet hair
~individual strand
Hold a single strand of wet hair
~ try to pull it apart
***Also called a pull test
stretches and returns to
~ original length without breaking
~ normal/good elasticity
breaks easily
~ fails to return to its original length
~ it has low/poor elasticity***crinkles=bad
Q. Describe texture and give the classifications and how to tell.
Q. What are the classifications for density?
Q. Explain what porosity is, its classifications and the test for porosity.
Q. Define elasticity, list classifications, describe the test.
GROWTH PATTERNS
important
~ shaping and styling hair
growth patterns
~streams, whorls, and cowlicks
Hair stream:
•flowing same direction
•follicles sloping same direction
•two streams opposite directions
~ form a natural part
Internet source:
Justformom slides.com
Whorl:
•forms a circular pattern
•crown
Dana.org
Cowlick:
•Tuft of hair
~ stands straight up
•Usually at the front hairline
•May be located anywhere
Internet source:
Hairboutique.com
DRY HAIR AND SCALP
inactive sebaceous glands
dry climate
hair appears dull, dry and lifeless
moisturizers and emollients
Avoid frequent
shampooing
Internet source:
Pq.com/science/hair care
Avoid
~ strong soaps
~ detergents
~ products with high alcohol content
Dry hair
~not overly-porous
OILY HAIR AND SCALP
Causes:
greasy buildup on scalp
oily coating
improper shampooing
overactive sebaceous glands
normalizing shampoo
Well-balanced diet
Exercise
Regular shampooing
Good personal hygiene
will control oily hair and scalp
Read:
Healthy Hair, Happy Clients