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Developing Ontario Appassimento Wines: The impact of drying method, yeast strain
and botrytis on wine quality and consumer choice
CCOVI Lecture Series
March 16, 2016 Dr. Debra Inglis
Why Develop Appassimento Wines for Ontario
• Can we further develop flavours in our grapes for use in high end wines despite cool, wet, less optimal fall months
• Adopt methods and technologies from other regions around the world that mitigate production risks, stabilize wine quality differences year-to-year and contribute to distinctive regional wine styles • Ripen fruit post harvest off-the-vine, then ferment
into wine (appassimento wines) – unique Ontario style
Things to watch for in Appassimento Grape Drying that may impact wine • Increase in oxidation compounds during
the drying process in the grapes that translate into oxidation faults in the wine (acetic acid, acetaldehyde and ethyl acetate)
• botrytis fungal development during the drying process from favourable humidity conditions (above 90% RH) that takes away from wine quality
The Appassimento Project -5 year
1. Comparative study of 5 techniques used to dry the grapes using Cabernet franc
2. Yeast strain trial: comparison of a yeast isolate from local riesling grapes for use in appassimento wine production
3. Impact of Botrytis cinerea on chemical profile, sensory attributes and consumer acceptance of appassimento wines
Project1 : Comparative study of 5 techniques used to dry the grapes using Cabernet franc Cabernet franc: 5 drying regimes compared
On-vine
Barn
Drying chamber
Kiln
Greenhouse
Project1 : Comparative study of 5 techniques used to dry the grapes using Cabernet franc
• Elucidate for each method the environmental conditions present during the different stages of drying to enhance the understanding of the method and the potential impact of climate-related risks
• For 4 seasons • Cabernet franc grapes, comparing drying regimes • First year was a trial year to work out methods, three complete years of
data for 4 of 5 techniques • Fruit changes during drying monitored, fermentations completed each
year, chemical and sensory analysis completed on the wines • Final year, we need to complete all volatile flavour analysis for past wines
Grapes and Drying Targets in Brix
• Cabernet franc were donated from Pillitteri Estates Winery each year
• Target Brix of fruit at harvest: 23ºBrix • Target Brix for drying: 26ºBrix and
28ºBrix • All wines fermented using the same
protocol, in triplicate, using EC1118 yeast from Lallemand
On-Vine Drying: Temperature and Relative Humidity
Long Duration Treatment (2 plus months) • Exposure to climate risks • Rain, fog, dew, wind, freeze-thaw, wildlife • Highly variable temperature and humidity
2013 2012 2011
Barn Drying: Temperature and Relative Humidity
Mid to long term duration (1-2 months) • Protected from rain, wildlife but impacted by external
climatic conditions • Temp and humidity correlated to external climate
conditions (r = 0.836) • Not as variable as on-vine
2013 2012 2011
Greenhouse Drying: Temperature and Relative Humidity
Mid Duration Treatment (weeks) • Protected from external climate (rain) • More variability in humidity, can help control internal
conditions with heat and air circulation
2013 2012 2011
Kiln Drying: Temperature and Relative Humidity
Short duration (days) • Protected from rain, wildlife • Not correlated to external climate conditions • High air flow • Control temp, targeting approx. 30°C • 2012, temp was increased on day 1 by mistake
at winery
2012 2013 2011
Drying Chamber: Temperature and Relative Humidity
Longest duration • Protected from rain, wildlife • No external climate influence, temp and humidity controlled • Temperature stays low, Humidity stays low • Differences in conditions in 2011 vs 2013,
• more botrytis in 2013, higher humidity at start in chamber
2011 2013
Drying treatments require different times to reach target Brix
Change in soluble solids for drying conditions.
2013 2012 2011
2011 2012 2013 2011 2012 2013On-Vine 30 43 33 42 56 61Kiln 3 1 5 5 4 6Barn 22 15 34 29 41 59Greenhouse 22 12 38 29 18 59Drying Chamber 22 - 52 44 - 88
Drying Condition
26°Brix 28°BrixDrying Period (days) Drying Period (days)
Things to watch for in Appassimento Grape Drying that may impact wine - increase in oxidation compounds in the grapes like acetic acid, acetaldehyde and ethyl acetate during the drying process
Acetic Acid concentration increases with Kiln drying, something to watch
• All acetic acid values are quite low, even in the kiln
• Highest was 0.13 g/L acetic acid in 2012 • Higher acetic acid in kiln dried fruit NOT
correlated to acetic acid bacteria on the fruit
2013 2012 2011
Other compounds that varied through drying
• Acetaldehyde increases with all treatments • Most pronounced with on-vine and kiln but still < 12 mg/L
• Malic acid drops in all treatments • Does not accumulate in berries with water loss • Usually between 2-2.5 g/L malic acid in the whithered fruit
• Glycerol increases 10 to 20-fold across treatments in 2011, 2013 • little change in 2012 (free of botrytis)
Glycerol increases 10 to 20-fold across treatments in 2011, 2013, little change 2012 (free of botrytis)
• Glycerol is a byproduct of botrytis
2013 2012 2011
Polyphenolics 2011-2013 (V. DeLuca) Extraction and Identification of 25-30 different polyphenols • Simple phenols (Gallic acid, Galloyl glucoside,
Caftaric Acid) • Resveratrols (transresveratrol, cis and trans-
piceid) • Procyanidins (Procyanidin, Procyanidin
Dimers, Catechin, Epicatechin • Flavonoids (Kaempferol, Kaempferol
Glucosides, Quercetin, Quercetin glucoside, Quercetin glucuronide, Isorhamnetin glucoside, Myricetin, Myricetin glucoside, Myricetin galactoside, Myricetin rhamnoside
• Anthocyanins (Delphinidin-3-0-glucoside, Petunidin 3-O-glucoside, Malvidin-3-O-glucoside, Malvidin 3-O-acetylglucoside, Malvidin 3-O-coumaroylglucoside
Polyphenolic analysis summary (V. Deluca Laboratory)
• Many polyphenols rise by 10 to 30 % in appasimento grapes compared to control grapes irrespective of the drying treatment used • Simple phenols, Resveratrols, Procyanidins, Flavonoids &
Anthocyanins • Resveratrol levels were higher in growing seasons when disease
pressure was higher. • Metabolite concentrations achieved were not specific to the drying
method. • Polyphenolic metabolite profiles have not yet been correlated to
sensory attributes of the wines • Is there impact on wine perception
• Focus of the laboratory has now shifted to a search for transcript protein markers.
Seed Analysis during Appassimento drying separated by drying technique (B. Kemp Laboratory)
Control – Oct 18, 2013
On-Vine – Nov 20, 2013
On-Vine – Dec 18, 2013
Control – Oct 18, 2013
Kiln – Oct 23, 2013
Kiln – Oct 27, 2013
22.5 Brix 26 Brix 28 Brix
Seed Analysis during Appassimento drying separated by drying technique (B. Kemp laboratory)
Control – Oct 18, 2013
Greenhouse – Nov 25, 2013
Greenhouse – Dec 16, 2013
Control – Oct 18, 2013
Barn – Nov 21, 2013
Barn – Dec 16, 2013
22.5 Brix 26 Brix 28 Brix
Seed Analysis during Appassimento drying separated by drying technique (B. Kemp Laboratory)
Control – Oct 18, 2013
Drying Chamber – Dec 9, 2013
Drying Chamber – Jan 14, 2014
28 Brix 26 Brix 22.5 Brix
Total Extractable seed tannin in appassimento grapes during drying process before fermentation (2013, B. Kemp Laboratory)
Treatment
22.5°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
26°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
28°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
On-vine 1230 ±59 b 1360 ±52 a 1371±55 a
Kiln 1230 ±59 a 1257 ±24 a 1277 ±42 a
Greenhouse 1230 ±59 b 1330 ±50 a 1403 ±68 a
Barn 1230 ±59 c 1394 ±77 b 1572 ±59 a Drying chamber 1230 ±59 b 1320 ±19 a 1366 ±24 a
Total Extractable skin tannin in appassimento grapes during drying process before fermentation (2013, B. Kemp Laboratory)
Treatment
22.5°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
26°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
28°Brix Epicatechin (ug/ml extract)
On-vine 60 ±13 a 49 ±9 a 24 ±13 b
Kiln 60 ±13 ab 41 ±14 b 68 ±17 a
Greenhouse 60 ±13 a 33 ±6 b 62 ±12 a
Barn 60 ±13 a 48 ±13 a 43 ±17 a Drying chamber 60 ±13 b 60 ±20 ab 77 ±20 a
Appassimento Wines High Ethanol Wines
2011 2012 2013 2011 2012 2013On-Vine 12.6 15.0 14.8 13.7 16.4 15.6Kiln 14.2 15.1 15.1 15.3 16.3 15.8Barn 14.8 14.9 16.8 14.8 16.0 17.0Greenhouse 13.3 15.3 14.8 15.5 16.7 16.4Drying Chamber 14.4 - 16.0 15.5 - 17.0
Drying Condition
26°Brix 28°BrixEthanol (% v/v) Ethanol (% v/v)
Descriptive Analysis of Wines 2011, 2012, 2013 vintages (G. Pickering Laboratory)
• Descriptive Analysis was performed for all wines for all 3 years using a trained sensory panel.
• Triplicate evaluations for up to 11 treatments each year! • CCOVI’s custom sensory evaluation lab • 4-6 months after bottling
• Figures visualize the results of the Principal Component Analyses , which were performed on those descriptors that were significantly different between wines (p(F)<0.05).
• Labels in CAPITAL letters indicate flavor descriptors, those in lower case are aroma and colour descriptors.
Volatile compounds for flavour analysis
• GC-MS method now developed to analyze wines for volatile compounds
• Identification and quantification of volatile compounds in the wines, statistical analysis and interpretation of results
• Completed for all wines, data being analysed
Preliminary cost analysis 2011 vs 2012 vs 2013 • to generate the same must volume as the control for the various
treatments, what % increase in grapes are required?
Project 2: Can yeast choice overcome wine oxidation fault issues and assist in developing a unique Ontario style. - new yeast isolate from local grapes that is a low producer of VA and ethyl acetate –Jennifer Kelly, PhD student
A Novel Yeast for Regional Signature Wines
• An indigenous yeast with fermentative capacity was isolated from Riesling Icewine grapes
• Brock Isolate: Saccharomyces bayanus • Produces significantly lower concentrations of oxidation
compounds (acetic acid, ethyl acetate and acetaldehyde) in finished wine vs. Saccharomyces cerevisiae EC1118 (Inglis and Heit, 2013)
• Potential value in Appassimento wine ⁻ Grapes dried post-harvest may start with higher concentrations of
oxidation compounds ⁻ Intent is to not further increase compounds in finished wine
Project Aims (Jennifer Kelly, PhD student)
Characterize S. bayanus Brock Isolate for Appassimento winemaking: • What are the upper sugar limits of juice that the
yeast can ferment to dryness? • How does it perform vs. S. cerevisiae EC1118?
⁻ Fermentation kinetics, oxidative compounds in finished wine, sensory profile of the wine
• Is there a consumer preference of appassimento wines fermented with the Brock yeast versus the commercially accepted EC1118 yeast?
Winemaking Outline
Fermentation Kinetics How do the yeast species compare at each drying target?
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-5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Solu
ble
Solid
s (°
Brix
)
Days
Control (21.5 °Brix)
S. cerevisiaeEC1118S. BayanusBrock Isolate
-5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Solu
ble
Solid
s (°
Brix
)
Days
24.5 °Brix
S. cerevisiaeEC1118S. bayanusBrock Isolate
-5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
Solu
ble
Solid
s (°
Brix
)
Days
26.0 °Brix
S. cerevisiaeEC1118
S. BayanusBrock Isolate
-5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Solu
ble
Solid
s (°
Brix
)
Days
27.5 °Brix
S. cerevisiaeEC1118S. BayanusBrock Isolate
Can S. bayanus Brock Isolate produce similar ethanol levels to S. cerevisiae EC1118 in Appassimento wines?
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10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
13.5
14
14.5
15
21.5 (Control) 24.5 26 27.5
Etha
nol (
%v/
v)
Soluble Solids (Brix)
S. cerevisiae- EC1118
S. bayanus- Brock Isolate
Note: No significant difference between yeast strains at each Brix level
Can S. bayanus Brock Isolate reduce oxidation compounds in the wine?
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0
0.05
0.1
0.15
0.2
0.25
0.3
0.35
0.4
21.5(Control)
24.5 26 27.5
Acet
ic A
cid
(g/L
)
Brix Level
Acetic Acid
S. cerevisiae- EC1118
S. bayanus- Brock Isolate
**
***
***
***
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
21.5(Control)
24.5 26 27.5
Ethy
l Ace
tate
(mg/
L)
Brix Level
Ethyl Acetate
S. cerevisiae- EC1118
S. bayanus- Brock Isolate
***
*** *** ***
*= p<0.05 **= p<0.01 ***= p<0.001
Sensory Evaluation
• Descriptive analysis • How does the profile differ from S. cerevisiae
EC1118? • Panel = 11 discriminatory palates
• Attributes are identified and quantified using human subjects
• Trained over 12 weeks • 15 cm line scale
0.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
8.0
10.0
12.0Green Pepper**
Spice
Red Fruit**
Black Fruit
Herbal
Canned GreenVegetable**
Earthy/Toasty***
Candy/Confection**
Floral
Leather/Meat
RED FRUITCONFECTION
BLACK FRUIT
SPICE
VEGETAL
HERBAL**
EARTHY/TOAST***
Astringency**
Alcohol***
Acidity*
Bitterness
Length ofFinish***
Spider Plot: S. cerevisiae EC1118 Trends Control (21.5 °Brix) vs. 26.0 °Brix vs. 27.5 °Brix
All Attributes
S. cerevisiae Control (21.5 Brix)
S. cerevisiae 26.0 Brix
S. cerevisiae 27.5 Brix
Note: Aroma in lower case, Flavour in CAPS Note: Red fruit= cooked/dried/fresh
*= p<0.05 **= p<0.01 ***= p<0.001
0.0
2.0
4.0
6.0
8.0
10.0
12.0Green Pepper
Spice
Red Fruit**
Black Fruit
Herbal
Canned GreenVegetable**
Earthy/Toasty*
Candy/Confection*
Floral
Leather/Meat**
RED FRUITCONFECTION*
BLACK FRUIT***
SPICE**
VEGETAL**
HERBAL
EARTHY/TOAST**
Astringency
Alcohol***
Acidity***
Bitterness
Length of Finish***
Spider Plot: S. bayanus Brock Isolate Trends Control (21.5 °Brix) vs. 26.0 °Brix vs. 27.5 °Brix
All Attributes
S. bayanus Control (21.5 Brix)
S. bayanus 26.0 Brix
S. bayanus 27.5 Brix*= p<0.05 **= p<0.01 ***= p<0.001
Note: Aroma in lower case, Flavour in CAPS Note: Red fruit= cooked/dried/fresh
PCA Chart 27.5 Brix S. cerevisiae versus S. bayanus
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Green Pepper Aroma
Spice Aroma Red Fruit Aroma: Cooked/Dried/Fresh
Black Fruit Aroma
Herbal Aroma
Canned Green Vegetable Aroma
Earthy/Toasty Aroma Candy/Confection Aroma
Floral Aroma
Leather/Meat Aroma
Red Fruit Flavour: Cooked/Dried/Fresh Flavour
Confection Flavour
Black Fruit Flavour
Spice Flavour
Vegetal Flavour
Herbal Flavour
Earthy/Toast Flavour
Astringency
Alcohol
Acidity
Bitterness
Length of Finish S. cerevisiae 27.5 Brix Rep 1
S. cerevisiae 27.5 Brix Rep 2
S. cerevisiae 27.5 Brix Rep 3
S. bayanus 27.5 Brix Rep 1
S. bayanus 27.5 Brix Rep 2
S. bayanus 27.5 Brix Rep 3
-1
-0.75
-0.5
-0.25
0
0.25
0.5
0.75
1
-1 -0.75 -0.5 -0.25 0 0.25 0.5 0.75 1
F2 (2
5.79
%)
F1 (37.31 %)
Variables (axes F1 and F2: 63.10 %)
Sensory analysis conclusions
S. bayanus Brock Isolate in Appassimento Wine
• Shifted the sensory profile of the wine towards increased black fruit flavour and aroma
• Reduced sourness and astringency vs. S. cerevisiae EC1118 commercial yeast
• Has demonstrated its feasibility for industry use
• Consumer Preference????
Project 3: Role of Botrytis in adding complexity to wines -should we always discard botrytis infected fruit or can we first assess the impact of botrytis on wine profile? -recent research points to a role of some botrytis infected fruit to add complexity in appassimento wines (noble rot form) -Investigated 10% botrytis infection in the grapesapes
Botrytis infected Cabernet franc
Three Categories based on colour and physical appearance
Red
Red Black Sporulating
Separated fruit into 3 categories incubated in humid chamber to confirm botrytis
Day 0
Day 8
Berries from each category were plated out, botrytis confirmed in sporulating positive control and red berries
Black Red Sporulating
Chemical Comparisons of three fruit categories to confirm botrytis
Black Berries (healthy berries)
Red Berries (botrytis berries)
Sporulating Berries (botrytis berries)
Brix 27.9 31.3 34.3
Glycerol (g/L)
0.1 9.3 11.1
Gluconic Acid (g/L)
0.1 1.5 1.4
Project 3: Impact of Botrytis cinerea on appassimento fruit – Sorting Team
Project 3: Impact of Botrytis cinerea on appassimento fruit
Black, uninfected berries
Red, infected berries but not sporulating
Fermentation set up with 0 and 10% by weight of botrytis infected berries
Project 3: Juice Analysis prior to fermentation with EC 1118
Juice Metabolite Control 10% Botrytis
Brix 27.6 ± 0.2 28.1 ± 0.1
pH 3.65 ± 0.02 3.66 ± 0.01
TA (g/L Tartaric Acid) 4.8 ± 0.0 4.7 ± 0.0
Acetic Acid (g/L) ˂0.02 ˂0.02
Glucose (g/L) 132 ± 5 128 ± 4
Fructose (g/L) 145 ± 10 142 ± 3
Glycerol (g/L) 0.04 ± 0.0 1.2 ± 0.1
Gluconic Acid (g/L) 0.14 ± 0.1 0.29 ± .02
Ammonia (mg N/L) 7 ± 1 7 ± 0
Amino acid (mg N/L) 91 ± 3 85 ± 0
Project 3: Fermentation Kinetics
Project 3: Control vs 10% Botrytis Wine Analysis
Wine Metabolite Control 10% Botrytis
pH 3.97 ± 0.03 4.01 ± 0.02
TA (g/L Tartaric Acid) 6.7 ± 0.0 6.4 ± 0
Ethanol (% v/v) 16.4 ± 0.2 16.4 ± 0.2
Residual Sugar (g/L) 0.17 ± 0.01 0.24 ± 0.02
Acetic Acid (g/L) 0.28 ± 0.00 0.35 ± 0.00
Acetaldehyde (mg/L) 108 ± 10 113 ± 8
Glycerol (g/L) 11.5 ± 0.4 12.7 ± 0.4
Gluconic Acid (g/L) 0.23 ± 0.02 0.34 ± 0.01
Project 3: 0 vs 10% Botrytis wines Sensory Analysis
0.01.02.03.04.05.06.07.08.09.0
10.0Dried Red Fruit AROMA*
Black Fruit AROMA
Vegetal AROMA
Coffee AROMA
Candied Cola AROMA
Medicinal AROMA
Mushroom AROMA
Spice AROMA
Dirty AROMA
Dusty AROMADried Red Fruit FLAVOURBlack Fruit FLAVOUR
Vegetal FLAVOUR
Spice FLAVOUR
Medicinal FLAVOUR
Dark Chocolate FLAVOUR
Bitterness
Acidity
Heat
Astringency
Length of Finish
2013 Appassimento Trial: 0% vs. 10% Botrytis cinerea infection Descriptive Analysis Results- All Attributes
Control (0% Affected)
Botrytis (10% Affected)
Consumer Preference Among Appassimento Wines
• Compared the consumer preference of Appassimento wines
• EC1118 S. cerevisiae – 0% Botrytis (27.6 Brix) • EC1118 S. cerevisae - 10% Botrytis infection (28.1 Brix) • S. bayanus Brock Isolate – 0% Botrytis (27.5 Brix)
• Consumer Preference study carried out in Guelph at Compusense
• 153 consumers participated • Each participant received one wine at a time • Scored on a 9-point hedonic scale where 9=“like extremely” and
1=“dislike extremely” • Preference was determined from liking score • Values of 6+ are representative of “good” CONSUMER ACCEPTANCE • Anything over 7 is “excellent” consumer preference, but is usually
reserved for products like chocolate
Consumer Preference
p-value S. cerevisiae 0% Botrytis
S. cerevisae 10% Botrytis
S. bayanus 0% Botrytis
Overall Liking
0.16 6.2 6.1 6.4
Means and ANOVA results
• Good Consumer Acceptance of Wine Style • There was no significant difference among
the three tested products
Summary
• Ripening grapes off-vine after harvest to produce
appassimento wines represents a new and exciting innovation for the Ontario wine industry
• overcome climatic barriers to obtaining fully ripe grapes • develop a unique signature wine style for Ontario.
• Process produces full-bodied red wines of high quality and consumer appeal
• Wine flavour moderated through • drying method • choice of fermenting yeast • level of botrytis infection in the fruit
Partners
VRIC • Michael Brownbridge, Bernard Goyette,
Jianbo Lu, Kimberly Cathline • Irina Perez-Valdes (mold analysis) • Harvest team from Cherry Ave and VRIC
Niagara College • Terence van Rooyen, students, staff
CCOVI • Gary Pickering, Vincenzo DeLuca, Jim
Willwerth, Belinda Kemp, Debra Inglis • Lisa Dowling (Berry sampling, analysis) • CCOVI Harvest team • Kyung-Hee Kim, Lisa Dowling, Tony Wang,
Fei Yang, Linda Tremblay, Lynda van Zuiden (chemical analysis)
• Fred Diprofio, Lisa Dowling for wine making
• Jen Kelly, Ian Bock, Cristina Huber, Caitlin Heit- students
Industry • Pillitteri Estates Winery • Cave Spring Cellars • Reif Estate Winery • European Planters • Sunrise Greenhouses • Integra (Graham Rennie) • Grape Growers of Ontario • Ontario Grape and Wine Research
Inc • Angel’s Gate Government • Ontario Ministry of Research and
Innovation ORF RE program • Agriculture and Agrifood Canada
(DIAP program)
Thank you
Cheers!
Brocku.ca/ccovi Debbie Inglis: dinglis@brocku.ca