Post on 17-Mar-2021
transcript
Duke Forest Common Tree Guide
For Field Assistants 2014
Christopher Payne
University of North Carolina
At Chapel Hill
SPEC ScientificName CommonName
ACBA Acer barbatum Southern Sugar Maple
ACER Acer sp. Maple
ACNE Acer negundo Boxelder
ACRU Acer rubrum Red Maple
ACSA Acer saccharum Sugar Maple
AESY Aesculus sylvatica Painted Buckeye
AIAL Ailanthus altissima Tree Of Heaven
ALJU Albizia julibrissin Silktree
ARSP Aralia spinosa Devil's Walkingstick
ASPA Asimina parviflora Smallflower Pawpaw
ASTR Asimina triloba Pawpaw
BENI Betula nigra River Birch
CACA Carya carolinae‐septentrionalis South. Shagbark Hickory
CACO Carya cordiformis Bitternut Hickory
CACR Carpinus caroliniana American Hornbeam
CADE Castanea dentata American Chestnut
CAGL Carya glabra Pignut Hickory
CAOL Carya ovalis Red Hickory
CAOV Carya ovata Shagbark Hickory
CAPA Carya pallida Sand Hickory
CAPU Castanea pumila var. pumila Chinkapin
CARY Carya sp. Hickory
CATO Carya alba Mockernut Hickory
CECA Cercis canadensis var. canadensis Eastern Redbud
CEOC Celtis occidentalis Common Hackberry
CHVI Chionanthus virginicus White Fringetree
COAL Cornus alternifolia Alternateleaf Dogwood
COAM Corylus americana American Hazelnut
COFL Cornus florida Flowering Dogwood
COST Cornus foemina Stiff Dogwood
CRAT Crataegus sp. Hawthorn
CRCR Crataegus crus‐galli Cockspur Hawthorn
CRFB Crataegus flabellata Fanleaf Hawthorn
CRFL Crataegus flava Yellowleaf Hawthorn
CRMA Crataegus marshallii Parsley Hawthorn
DIVI Diospyros virginiana Common Persimmon
FAGR Fagus grandifolia American Beech
FRAX Fraxinus sp. Ash
GLTR Gleditsia triacanthos Honeylocust
HAVI Hamamelis virginiana American Witchhazel
ILAM Ilex ambigua Carolina Holly
ILDE Ilex decidua Possumhaw
ILOP Ilex opaca var. opaca American Holly
JUNI Juglans nigra Black Walnut
JUVI Juniperus virginiana Eastern Redcedar
KALA Kalmia latifolia Mountain Laurel
LIBE Lindera benzoin Northern Spicebush LIST Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum
LITU Liriodendron tulipifera Tuliptree
MAGR Magnolia grandiflora Southern Magnolia
MASP Malus sp. Apple, Crabapple
MATR Magnolia tripetala Umbrella‐Tree
MORU Morus rubra var. rubra Red Mulberry
NYSY Nyssa sylvatica Blackgum
OSVI Ostrya virginiana var. virginiana Hophornbeam
OXAR Oxydendrum arboreum Sourwood
PATO Paulownia Paulownia
PIEC Pinus echinata Shortleaf Pine
PINU Pinus sp. Pine
PITA Pinus taeda Loblolly Pine
PIVI Pinus virginiana Virginia Pine
PLOC Platanus occidentalis American Sycamore
POAL Populus alba White Poplar
PRAM Prunus americana American Plum
PRAN Prunus angustifolia var. angustifolia Chickasaw Plum
PRSE Prunus serotina Black Cherry
PYMA Pyrus/malus sp. Pear, Apple, Crabapple
QUAL Quercus alba White Oak
QUCO Quercus coccinea var. coccinea Scarlet Oak
QUER Quercus sp. Oak
QUFA Quercus falcata Southern Red Oak
QUFP Q. falcata var. pagodifolia
QULY Quercus lyrata Overcup Oak
QUMA Quercus marilandica Blackjack Oak
QUMI Quercus michauxii Swamp Chestnut Oak
QUNI Quercus nigra Water Oak
QUPH Quercus phellos Willow Oak
QUPR Quercus montana
QURG Quercus sect. Lobatae
QURU Quercus rubra Northern Red Oak
QUSH Q. shumardii var. shumardii Shumard Oak
QUST Quercus stellata Post Oak
QUVE Quercus velutina Black Oak
QUWG Quercus sect. Quercus
RHCA Rhododendron catawbiense Catawba Rosebay
RHNU Rhododendron nudiflorum
ROPS Robinia pseudoacacia Black Locust
SAAL Sassafras albidum Sassafras
SAHU Salix humilis Prairie Willow
ULAL Ulmus alata Winged Elm
ULAM Ulmus americana American Elm
ULMU Ulmus sp. Elm
ULRU Ulmus rubra Slippery Elm
VAAR Vaccinium arboreum Farkleberry
VIBR Viburnum sp. Viburnum
VIPR Viburnum prunifolium Blackhaw
VIRA Viburnum rafinesquianum Downy Arrowwood
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Opposite Leaved Trees: [MAD Horse]
Simple: Maple (Acer), Dogwood (Cornus) Compound: Ash (Fraxinus), Horsechestnut (Aesculus) Shrub: Viburnum spp.
ACRU – Acer rubrum (Red maple)
� Opposite, leaves typically 3-lobed (1-2-3, R-E-D), leaves serrated;
bark often smooth on younger trees
ACBA – Acer barbatum (Southern sugar maple)
� Opposite; 5 (sometimes 3) major lobes with ridges, but otherwise
smooth on edge (no teeth)
COFL – Cornus florida (Flowering dogwood)
� Leaves: deep ribbing, roundish, ‘drip-tip’
� Bark: cobblestone / mosaic bumpy / scaly
FRAX – Fraxinus spp. (Ash) White Ash =F. americana; Green Ash = F. pennsylvanica
� Opposite; compound leaves,
� Light bark
AESY – Aesculus sylvatica (Painted buckeye)
� Opposite; Palmately compound leaves
� Typically shrub-size in Duke Forest
VIAC – Viburnum acerfolium (Maple leaf viburnum)
� Opposite
� Leaf: often maple-like appearance, but fuzzy
� Black fruit
VIPR – Viburnum prunifolium (Cherry leaf viburnum)
� Cherry-like leaf appearance, but OPPOSITE
� Dull green leaves
vs. glossy top/gland-tipped hairs on bottom of V. rufidulum leaves
VIRA – Viburnum rafinesquianum (Downy arrowwood)
� Opposite
� Leaf: deep ribs, coarse teeth, hairy below
[Viburnum dentatum has longer petioles]
� Black fruit
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Oaks
QUAL – Quercus alba (White oak)
� Leaf: rounded, smooth lobes
� Bark: Very light grey; flaking appearance when mature
QUST – Quercus stellata (Post oak)
� Leaf: cross shape, green above with scattered stellate pubescence,
pubescent and paler below.
QUFA – Quercus falcata (Southern red oak)
� Leaf: Hairy on both sides (hair rubs off); inconsistent & sometimes
amorphous leaves
� Typical shade leaf = ‘southern bell’ (bell shaped, 3 lobes)
� Leaves have bristles at ends
QURU– Quercus rubra (Northern red oak)
� Leaves: long, many lobes, pointy lobes with bristles at ends, lobes
NOT deeply cut
� Bark: ridges that appear to have shiny stripes down the center
QUVE – Quercus velutina (Black oak)
� SHADE Leaf: variable shape, very shallow sinuses, lustrous shiny
green above, paler with scruffy pubescence and axillary tufts below
� Leaf: Bristle tipped lobes, deep notches, top is shiny deep green,
bottom is yellowish-brown. Clumps of stellate hairs on bottom.
� Bark: At first gray and smooth, becoming thick and very rough,
nearly black and deeply furrowed vertically with horizontal breaks;
short plates on bark (similar to Q. coccinea)
Less Common Oaks:
QUPH = Q. phellos (Willow oak) , CUCO = Q. coccinea (Scarlet oak), QUMA = Q. marilandica (Blackjack Oak), QUMI = Q.
michauxii (Swamp Chestnut Oak), QUSH = Q. shumardii (Shumard Oak), QULY = Q. lyrata (Overcup Oak)
Hickories
CACO – Carya cordiformis (Bitternut hickory)
� (7-)9 leaflets (sometimes 5-11)
� Sulfur-yellow buds, not particularly fragrant leaves
� Clustered grey spots located along edge of backside of leaf base
� Bark: much tighter than on most hickories, lacking significant
ridges and not peeling off in strips
� Bottomland forests
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Hickories
CACA – Carya carolinae‐septentrionalis (Southern
shagbark hickory)
� 5-7 leaflets, terminal leaflet 2-5 (-6) cm wide
� thin, red-brown to blackish twigs, small buds, and shaggy bark
� lower surface of leaflets = glabrous, except for tufts of trichomes in
the main vein axils; scattered scales,
� Teeth have tufts of hairs (usually concentrated toward teeth tips)
� Grows in Uplands
CAGL – Carya glabra (Pignut hickory)
� 5 (sometimes 7) leaflets
� Leaves: usually glabrous (sometimes hairy), spicily fragrant,scruffily
pubescent rachis, petiole usually green, range from wide/obovate to
skinny/more lanceolate
� Bark: close/tight intersecting smooth ridges;
dark
CAOL – Carya ovalis (Red hickory)
� Similar to C. glabra, but has 7 leaflets vs. 5 (but 5 possible), may be
pubescent beneath vs. glabrous, & the petiole bases are red vs. green
� Buds are similar to C. pallida, but without golden-colored glands.
� Scruffily pubescent rachis
� Bark: tight or often scaly or somewhat shaggy
� Uncommon in Piedmont
CAOV – Carya ovata (Shagbark hickory)
� 5 (or 7) leaflets, terminal leaflet (4-) 6-15 cm wide
� Thick (3-6 mm), tan-gray twigs and larger buds
� Leaf teeth have clusters of hairs on their tips (may wear off)
� Leaf underside is Hairy; Large round yellow peltate scales
� Bark: Light colored, very shaggy, in long loose strips
� Smells ‘dusty’ or ‘fruity’ (like artificial banana)
� Rich bottomlands
CAPA – Carya pallida (Sand hickory)
� 7-9 leaflets
� Leaf undersides are paler, covered with many silvery scales,
� scruffily pubescent rachis, reddish petiole bases
� Spicily fragrant leaves (minor)
� Dry, sandy soil habitats
CATO – Carya tomentosa (Mockernut hickory) [C. alba]
� Usually 7-9 leaflets
� Leaves: very fragrant, very hairy, scruffily pubescent rachis
� Bark: Tight with diamond-shaped intersecting ridges (on mature trees)
� Strong smell (some suggest it smells like ‘turpentine’)
7 leaflets (hairy)
Flakey bark
5 leaflets (glabrous)
Smoother Bark
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Doubly Serrate leaves:
CACR – Carpinus caroliniana (American Hornbeam)
[musclewood; ironwood]
� Leaf: smooth/glabrous (not hairy) on top and underneath
� Bark: smoother muscle-like
OSVI – Ostrya virginiana (Hophornbeam)
� Leaf: smooth on top, hairy on bottom of leaf (try licking)
� Bark: kind of peely
ULAL – Ulmus alata (Winged elm)
� Leaf: rough on top (rub hand from front to back of leaf)
� 5 cm long, top dark green, paler and slightly hairy beneath
� Leaf narrower than U. americana
� Bark: corky ‘wings’ grow along stems of older trees
ULAM – Ulmus americana (American elm)
� Leaf: similar to ULAL, leaf typically wider
� 7-12 cm long, 2-8 cm wide, upper surface green and glabrous or
slightly scabrous, paler and downy beneath
� Bark: flat-topped ridges separated by diamond-shaped fissures
ULRU – Ulmus rubra (Slippery elm) [red elm]
� Leaf: wider leaf than ULAL, but SUPER rough (like sandpaper)
� 8-16 cm long, 5-9 cm wide, shape variable (obovate or oval or
ovate), leaf base variable (cordate or cuneate or oblique or rounded),
bottom surface green, pubescent or with tufts in vein axils
Other Trees
ILOP – Ilex opaca (American Holly)
� Leaf: looks like typical holly leaf (thick, shiny, spiney)
� Bark: smooth, light
� Evergreen
MORU – Morus rubra (Red Mulberry)
� Leaves are similar in shape to the naturalized White Mulberry
(Morus alba), but are rough above and not glossy, and also similar to
Paper Mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera), but are not as rough-hairy
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Other Trees
LIST – Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet gum)
� 5-lobed, Star-shaped leaf; usually very straight-trunked tree
� Light-colored bark, bark becomes more ridged with maturity
� Bark of young trees is mostly smooth but often has warts
� Twigs sometimes have corky ‘wings’ (sometimes on trunk too)
� Leaves have licorice-like smell (to differentiate from Acer)
LITU – Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip poplar)
� Funny-looking 4 lobed leaf (looks like tulip flower)
� Leaf shape can be variable (especially in depth of lobing)
� Tall fairly straight trunks; often branchless for quite a distance up
when mature
FAGR – Fagus grandifolia (American beech)
� Leaf: strongly ribbed, thin/papery, smooth
� Bark: smooth, light (people carve names into a lot)
� Bark usually covered in many lichens
`
JUVI – Juniperus virginiana (Eastern redcedar)
� Leaves: Scaly evergreen
� Bark: peely, light brown exposing grey when peeled
OXAR – Oxydendrum arboreum (Sourwood)
� Leaves: long, oval, tiny teeth on margin, taste very sour
� Conspicuous hairs along leaf mid-rib in young leaves
� Bark: typically dark and ridged
� Trunk rarely grows straight (follows light gaps)
PRSE – Prunus serotina (Black cherry)
� Leaves: oval or almost round shaped with fine teeth along the
entire leaf margin (edge), small
� Conspicuous brown hair along base of leaf mid-rib (unlike other cherries)
� Bark: horizontal stripes, often flaky
� Bark and twigs have strong, bad smell when scratched
SAAL – Sassafras albidum (Sassafras)
� Leaves: variable (un-lobed/ovate, 2-lobed mitten, 3-lobed ‘trident’)
� Leaves are Fragrant when crushed
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Other Trees
CECA – Cercis canadensis (Redbud)
� Leaves: heart-shaped, small, thin and papery
� Bark: Initially smooth and brown; later ridged and furrowed to
scaly and dark gray; maroon patches with orange cracks sometimes
CHVI – Chionanthus virginicus (White Fringetree)
� Leaves: opposite, somewhat thickened, green above and paler
below, dense white hairs on bottom,
� Leaves often seem clustered toward ends of stems
� Bark: light brown on young trees
DIVI – Diospyros virginiana (Common Persimmon)
� Leaves: drip-tip, lighter & ‘cracked’ bottom, smooth margins
� Bark: blackish and broken into square plates (on mature trees) [Inner bark turns yellow after cutting]
� Main branches not horizontal, leaves more evenly spaced on
longer side branches, small branches are hairy, & buds are blackish.
� Bundle scars: 1
NYSY – Nyssa sylvatica (Blackgum)
� Leaves: entire (non-toothed margins), smooth, sometimes have
random teeth, sometimes glossy
� Main branches tend to be horizontal and the leaves are clustered
on short spurs of smooth branches
� Bundle scars: 3
PLOC – Platanus occidentalis (Eastern sycamore)
� Leaves: large, with coarse-toothed palmate lobes,
� Bark: flakes off to reveal a mottled pattern of white and green-gray
� Usually only in wet areas (near streams)
� Infra-petiole bud
JUNI – Juglans nigra (Black Walnut)
� Leaf: long, pinnately compound leaves with many leaflets
� Distinctively fragrant
� Bark: very dark and rough in old trees; gray with diamond-shaped
ridges in medium-sized trees
MATR – Magnolia tripetela (Umbrella magnolia)
� Leaves: large (20-60cm long) , lack lobed bases, whiter bottom, ribby
� Leaves resemble umbrellas in that they are large and clustered at
the ends of branches.
� Bark: bark is smooth, except for scattered lenticels (corky warts)
AMAR – Amelanchier arborea (Common serviceberry)
� Leaves: 4-13cm long, finely serrate, paler/hairy below, round or
slightly cordate base
� Small to medium-sized tree, found most often in upland woods
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Pines
PITA – Pinus taeda (Loblolly Pine )
� Long needles (15-20 cm long) in groups of 3-4
� Bark: deeply furrowed, large flaky/blocky layered clumps
PIEC – Pinus echinata (Shortleaf Pine )
� Shorter needles (7-13 cm long) in groups of 2 (or 3)
� Bark: large thin flaky patches, not deeply-furrowed, many small
spotty indentations (resin craters)
PIVI – Pinus virginiana (Virginia Pine)
� Shortest needles (3-8 cm long) in groups of 2, twisted needles
� Bark: The reddish-brown bark is broken into small thin flakey
plates (sometimes described as corn-flakey)
Non-native
ELPU – Elaeagnus pungens (Autumn Silverberry)
� Leaves: evergreen, waxy green top; silver with brown spots below
� Stems: spotted, often thorny
ELUM – Elaeagnus umbellata (Spring Silverberry)
� Leaves: green and distinctly scaly above, silvery and scaly below.
� Stems: Young branches are silvery and scaly, and may bear thorns,
later developing a light brown color
AIAL – Ailanthus altissima (Tree Of Heaven)
� Alternate, pinnately compound, 11- 41 leaflets (1-3ft long), leaflets
are 5-15 cm long, pointed at the tip, large glandular teeth near base
� Bark: resembles the skin of a cantaloupe when young
� Smells bad when broken (like ‘burnt peanut butter’)
ALJU – Albizia julibrissin (Silktree)
� Leaves: Many small doubly compound leaflets
PATO – Paulownia tomentosa (Princess tree)
� Leaves: Large (15-30+ cm long, 15-30+ cm wide), heart-shaped
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Common understory plants in Duke Forest:
Toxicodendron radicans (Poison ivy)
-> 3 leaves; furry vine on trees
-> ‘Leaves of Three, Leave it be’
Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) 5 palmately compound leaves; vine
Vitis rotundifolia (Muscadine) a grape vine with ‘toothy’ pseudo-circular bib shape
Lonicera japonica(Japanese honeysuckle) non-native vine
Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmas fern) frond lobes stocking-shaped (bump at base of each)
Vaccinium spp. (Blueberry genus) [V. corymbosum = typically eaten sp.]
Chimaphila maculata (Striped Wintergreen) dark green w/ white stripes
Smilax bona-nox (Saw greenbrier) spines along edge of leaf
Smilax rotundifolia (Common greenbrier) round leaf; green on top AND bottom
Smilax glauca (cat greenbrier) round leaf; green top, whitish (glaucous) on bottom
Quick Glossary:
Axillary = relating to leaf axils (angle between a leaf and a
stem) or vein axils (angle b/w vein and mid-rib)
Cordate = heart-shaped, stem attaches to cleft
Cuneate = triangular, stem attaches to point
Entire = smooth margin (edge)
Glabrous = without hair, smooth
Lanceolate = slender and pointed shape
Margin = leaf edge
Oblique = slanting leaf base
Obovate = Teardrop-shape w/ small leaf base & larger leaf tip
Ovate = Teardrop-shape w/ large leaf base & tapering leaf tip
Peltate = rounded
Pubescent = hairy
Rachis = main stem of a compound leaf
Scabrous = rough
Serrated = toothy
Stellate = star-shaped
Trichomes = fine outgrowths or appendages on plants
Useful Links:
List of Duke Forest Plant Species:
http://dukeforest.duke.edu/forest-environment/plants/
Will Cook’s (Duke) awesome site for photos (and quick facts/comparisons):
http://www.carolinanature.com/trees/#trees
More useful tree links:
http://www.ibiblio.org/openkey/intkey/index.htm
http://dendro.cnre.vt.edu/dendrology/factsheets.cfm
http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/southeastern-plants.htm
http://www.dnr.state.md.us/wildlife/Habitat/WildAcres/habichat26.asp
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Appendix 1 – More Trees! Oaks
QUCO – Quercus coccinea (Scarlet Oak)
Leaf: 3‐ 7 in. long, oval in shape with very deep (C‐shaped) sinuses and bristle‐tipped lobes, shiny green above, paler and generally hairless below but may have tufts in vein axils. [Glossy and smooth on both top and bottom, unlike similar species.]
Bark: On young trees, gray‐brown, with smooth streaks; later becoming darker and developing irregular broad ridges and narrow furrows especially near the base.
QUFP – Quercus falcata var. pagotifolia (Cherrybark Oak)
Leaf: 5‐ 8 in long, 5‐9 bristle tipped lobes which are shallower than Q. falcata, margins of lobes are nearly at right angles to midrib, bright green above, duller and may be scruffy‐hairy beneath and on petiole.
Shade leaves are blockier, more variable, and more difficult to tell apart from Q. falcata or Q. velutina
Bark: Initially smooth, but quickly developing small scaly ridges, later becoming dark, scaly and quite rough. At times resembling PRSE bark
QULY – Quercus Lyrata (Overcup Oak) Leaf: Alternate, simple, 6‐ 10 inches long, roughly oblong in shape with a highly variable margin that has 5‐ 9 lobes with irregular sinuses. The underside is white and pubescent. Bark: Gray‐brown and scaly, often with irregular plates, again resembling white oak
QUMA – Quercus Marilandica (Blackjack Oak) Leaf: Alternate, simple, 5‐8 inches long, thickened, with 3 shallow, bristle‐tipped lobes near the end of the leaf, upper surface lustrous green, lower surface paler with orange‐brown pubescence. Bark: Very dark (almost black), rough, with blocky plates and splits.
QUMI – Quercus michauxii (Swamp Chestnut Oak)
Leaf: Obovate, 4‐8 inches long, 3‐5 inches wide, margin with large round blunt teeth, dark green and shiny above, pale and downy below. [larger & broader towards tip, paler/hairier back vs. Q. montana]
Bark: Similar to white oak, ashy gray, scaly, with age developing irregular furrows and becoming darker.
Grows on moist and wet loamy soils of bottom lands, along streams and borders of swamps in mixed hardwood
Shade
Top
Bottom
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QUPH – Quercus phellos (Willow Oak) Leaf: Alternate, simple, 2‐ 5 inches long, linear or lanceolate in shape (willow‐like) with an entire margin and a bristle tip. Bark: On young stems, smooth, gray and tight; later becoming darker and forming irregular rough ridges and furrows.
QUPR – Quercus montana [prinus] (Chestnut Oak) Leaf: Alternate, simple, 4‐6 inches long, obovate to elliptical in shape with a crenate margin, shiny green above and paler below. Bark: Gray‐brown to brown, very smooth when young; developing hard and wide flat‐topped ridges which later become thicker and more sharply pointed ridges; somewhat resembling the back of an alligator or ridge tops. [similar deep ridges as OXAR]
QUSH – Quercus shumardii (Shumard Oak)
Leaf: 4‐7 in long, 5‐ 9 lobes with coarse bristle tips, sinuses extend more than halfway to midrib, shiny/glossy dark green above, pale yellowish‐green below with prominent tufts of tan hairs in the axils of the veins. [Related oaks may have similar tufts, but not as pale tan or as tufted]
Bark: Grayish brown, developing dark, deep furrows, with light gray to white scaly ridge tops. Similar to that of Q. Rubra: smoothish when young, then breaking into vertical ridges ("ski tracks").
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More Trees
ASTR – Asimina Triloba (Pawpaw)
Leaf: Simple, entire, large (up to a foot long), and malodorous if crushed (smells kind of like green pepper) Bark: Smooth, brown, splotched with wart‐like lenticels, often with light gray patches.
CELA – Celtis laevigata (Sugarberry)
Leaf: Longer than wide; NOT scabrous (rough) on top. Elongate, almost triangular shape with uneven bases with three prominent veins and usually few teeth.
Bark: VERY warty. Gray to light brown, smooth with corky "warty" patches, does not develop ridges (as hackberry does)
CEOC – Celtis occidentalis (Common Hackberry)
Leaf: Ovate, 2‐5 in long, serrate (often end 75% way toward base), acuminate tip, asymmetrical base, 3 distinct veins originate from base, maybe hairy or scabrous (rough) on top, green above, paler & somewhat pubescent below. Short petiole, Little round drupes.
Bark: Smooth & gray‐brown when young, soon developing corky, "warts" which later develop into rough corky, irregular ridges.
Not to be confused with: Celtis tenuifolia ( Dwarf Hackberry) – has smaller leaves and usually less teeth (with teeth going less further down margins toward base)
HAVI – Hamamelis virginiana (American Witchhazel)
Leaf: Alternate, simple, broadly ovate to obovate, 7‐14cm long, inequilateral, wavy margin (nearly dentate), petiole pubescent, dark green above and paler below.
Bark: Smooth, gray to gray‐brown even on very old stems.
`
ILAM – Ilex ambigua (Carolina Holly)
Leaf: 2‐9cm long, elliptic to broadly ovate (often nearly round). Apex abruptly to gradually acuminate, marginal teeth often inconspicuous, petioles usually <1cm long
Wider and larger than ILDE leaf
ILDE – Ilex decidua (Deciduous Holly; Possumhaw)
Leaf: Deciduous, 4‐8cm long, margin shallowly blunt toothed and often revolute, narrowly obovate (variable), tips rounded or broadly wedge‐shaped, glabrous and dull green above, paler below.
Bark: Thin, smooth (may be warty) and grayish brown, with lenticels.
4
LIBE – Lindera benzoin (Northern Spicebush)
Leaf: Alternate, simple, elliptical, 3 to 5 inches long, pinnately veined, entire margin that may be somewhat ciliate, green above and slightly paler below, strong pleasant spicy odor when crushed.
Bark: Brown to gray‐brown and speckled with light colored lenticels
Piedmont /C.P.: Hairy Northern Spicebush, var. pubescens –somewhat hairy undersides (at least on the midrib) and young twigs. Mountains: hairless var. benzoin is common. The hairs on pubescens may require a hand lens to see.
PRAM – Prunus americana (American Plum)
Leaf: finely serrated and abruptly long‐pointed (acuminate).
Bark: similar to other cherries, dark gray with horizontally‐elongated lenticels, but tends to peel with age, revealing pale reddish‐tan bark
Uncommon in the Piedmont.
SANI – Salix nigra (Black Willow)
Leaf: Alternate, simple, pinnately veined, lanceolate in shape, 5‐15cm long, with a finely serrate margin. Leaves are dark and shiny above, light green below.
Bark: Brown to gray‐black, with thick, somewhat scaly ridges and deep furrows.
More Invasive Species
LIJA – Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet)LILU – Ligustrum lucidum (Glossy Privet)
Thick, glossy leaves and usually glabrous twigs. Leaf Sizes differ: LIJA
has smaller leaves (<6 cm long vs. 6‐15 cm for LILU).
A tip to tell the two apart: L. japonicum leaves snap when bent, L. lucidum leaves just bend.
LISI – Ligustrum sinense (Chinese Privet)
Leaf: Small (usually 2‐4cm long) elliptic, smooth‐edged, arranged oppositely along the twigs. Leaves are thick with a glossy upper surface and a pale green lower surface. Midrib of each leaf is hairy.
Bark: Smooth gray with lenticels. Trunk is usually forked near base.
Other Species:
ACNE – Acer negundo (Boxelder) ALSE – Alnus serrulata (Hazel Alder)
BENI – Betula nigra (River Birch) CRAT ‐‐ Crataegus sp. (Hawthorns)
EUAM – Euonymus americana (Strawberry Bush)
MAG – Magnolia grandiflora (Southern Magnolia) RHCO – Rhus copallinum (Flameleaf Sumac)
STGR – Styrax grandifolius (Bigleaf Snowbell) VACC – Vaccinium sp. (Blueberries)
LIJA LILU
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Tick Removal
If you find a tick attached to your skin, there's no need to panic. There are several tick removal devices on the market, but a plain set of fine-tipped tweezers will remove a tick quite effectively.
How to remove a tick
1. Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin's surface as possible. 2. Pull upward with steady, even pressure. Don't twist or jerk the tick; this can cause the mouth-parts to break off
and remain in the skin. If this happens, remove the mouth-parts with tweezers. If you are unable to remove the mouth easily with clean tweezers, leave it alone and let the skin heal.
3. After removing the tick, thoroughly clean the bite area and your hands with rubbing alcohol or soap and water.
Avoid folklore remedies such as "painting" the tick with nail polish or petroleum jelly, or using heat to make the tick detach from the skin. Your goal is to remove the tick as quickly as possible--not waiting for it to detach.
*Remember to look EVERYWHERE for ticks: including back, crotch, belly-button, and hair. *Also, be sure to heat (drier) or wash and dry clothing to kill lingering ticks. [Do not leave field clothes in bedroom]
http://www.cdc.gov/ticks/index.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/Urban/ticks.htm
Chiggers Chiggers are extremely tiny, and can only easily be seen using magnification. Their presence is
best known, instead, by the intensely itchy welts they leave behind, usually where your skin is thin
and tender (ankles, backs of knees, about the crotch, under the beltline, and in the armpits) and
where tight clothing proves an obstacle to them (beltline, sock-line). Chigger bites sometimes
have tiny red dot at the center, which is the remains of a scablike tube your body formed in response to the chigger's saliva.
Chiggers’ larval stage is parasitic. Their primary hosts are reptiles and birds, with mammals (including people) secondary,
almost accidental hosts. They seek tender skin, attach to the surface, inject a saliva containing a digestive enzyme and drink
the dissolved skin tissue. Your body responds to this with an itchy allergic reaction. Adult chiggers are not parasitic and feed on
various plant materials and other small arthropods.
What to do about them:
Our normal movements and hygiene, along with the difficulty the larvae have gaining a mouthhold on us, keep most chiggers
from successfully attaching, but people have reported hundreds of bites resulting from a relatively short exposure. Protect
your skin by wearing tightly woven clothes that cover as much of your body as possible with minimal openings, applying insect
repellents and bathing soon after exposure. Unlike ticks, to which they are related, chiggers are fragile. A shower or bath
following exposure to chiggers will remove most of them. If a bath isn't available, a brisk toweling down should dislodge or
crush most of them
Follow-up If you develop a rash or fever within several weeks of removing a tick, see your doctor. Be sure to tell the doctor about your recent tick bite, when the bite occurred, and where you most likely acquired the tick.
13
Poison Ivy
Urushiol oil causes the allergic reaction. The oil is in the leaves, vines, and roots!
Apprx. 60% of ppl are allergic, but 90% of the remaining 40% will become allergic through exposure!!
Within a hour or so you should rinse with lots of cold water. Hot water will open your pores and let the oil in. For up to about 6
hours washing with alcohol may still help remove the oil, but the sooner the better!!
The oil from poison ivy is extremely stable and will stay potent - essentially forever. You can get a rash from clothing or tools
that have the oil from last summer, or even from many years back. So if you don't remove the oil by washing, using alcohol to
dissolve it, or by just hosing off with a hard spray from a hose - assume it will stay forever.
Once you have the rash the oil has been absorbed and you probably can't spread it to others or elsewhere on yourself. If you
get big blisters filled with liquid it is mostly water and will not spread the rash even if they break.
Poisonous Snakes
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/gaston/Pests/reptiles/snakepix3.html
Yellow Jackets Disturbing ground nests or trees can cause yellow jackets to attack. If you do disturb
a yellow jacket nest, general guidelines are to slowly walk away with both hands
covering the face to protect the more sensitive body areas. It is best to walk toward
dense vegetation or enter a vehicle or building to avoid the stinging insects. Swift
movements will only attract more yellow jackets.
Timber (Canebrake) Rattlesnake [Crotalus horridus]
Live in rocky hillsides, fields, woodland edges and
swamps. It is frequently found hiding in and under
stumps and other woody surface cover. They are
active both day and night in cool but not cold weather.
During hot summer months, they are most active at
night.
Copperhead Snake [Agkistrodon contortrix]
Lives in wooded areas, among rocks, or near streams
or ponds. Often hides in stone walls, under decaying
stumps, in wood piles, & under large flat stones. Basks
during the day when weather is cool. During hot
summer months, they are most active at night.