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Tom Pecheux, the French makeup artist and ‘‘color creator’’ at Shiseido, is obsessedwith skin. ‘‘The skin has to glow,’’ he says. ‘‘Everyone is going for collagen, Botox, eyejobs, etc., but if your skin is tired and ugly, none of it matters.’’ Pecheux, who prettifiestop runways and gilds famous lilies like Uma Thurman and Nicole Kidman, loves a sexy,jet-set look. ‘‘There is nothing better than a woman who likes to have a good time,’’ he says. ‘‘She’s glamorous, maybe a little crazy.’’ But she has to take care of her skin.

French PolishTOM PECHEUX SHOWS

SANDRA BALLENTINE HOW TO GLOW.

Pecheux’scomplexion secret?Terri Lawton (above), aBeverly Hills ‘‘age-management’’ specialistwho tends to the skin ofhigh-profile Hollywoodtypes, including DemiMoore and Keri Russell.Lawton, he says,massages ‘‘facial pressurepoints, even inside themouth.’’ According toLawton, it’s a bit moreesoteric: ‘‘I do a form ofenergy work that tapsand activates beauty chi,releases blockages andbrings out the glow andvitality of the skin.’’

Before Pecheux appliesa drop of makeup, he clears away excesssebum with CréalineTS H2O, a gentlemakeup remover fromthe French companyBioderma LaboratoireDermatologique.

‘‘All the models use itbetween shows becauseit doesn’t dry out theirskin,’’ he says. (Go towww.bioderma.com formore information.)

Next he applies his owninstant brightener, a mixture of Shiseido the Skincare DayEssential Moisturizer($37 at Macy’s stores)and a premeasured dose of Dr. Sebagh’sPure Vitamin CPowder Cream ($155for 30 doses, atwww.blissworld.com),and massages it into the face for a fewminutes. ‘‘This stimulates

the circulation and warmsthe epidermis,’’ he says,‘‘which helps foundationspread more easily.’’

Foundation is tricky,according to Pecheux.‘‘Skin changes from dayto day, week to week, so you need to be able to adjust your base.’’ Hesuggests blending twoshades, one a half tonelighter than your skin and the other a full tonedarker, like Shiseidothe Makeup LiftingFoundation in colorsO40 and O60 ($40 eachat Saks Fifth Avenue).Pecheux usually appliesmakeup with his fingers,but uses a brush forfoundation, specificallyM.A.C.’s No. 190 ($32 atwww.maccosmetics.com).

One especially neat toolin Pecheux’s little blackbag is Estée Lauder’sPrime FX Face

Definer ($25 atwww.esteelauder.com).One end is a light-diffusing liquid highlighter,the other a sculpture and contouring crayon.‘‘If your cheeks are tooround, use the crayonunderneath to create theimpression of a hollow,’’Pecheux says. ‘‘Ormaybe your nose is toolong. Sweep the crayon along the line of the nose, but not allthe way down.’’

A girlish flush is crucialfor spring. To get it, hespreads a creamy blush,like Shiseido theMakeup AccentuatingColor Stick in S4 ($30 at Barneys NewYork), from the center ofthe cheekbone.

‘‘Right now I like apowerful lip,’’ Pecheuxsays. ‘‘But lips should still be kissable. I have

no desire to kiss a reallypainted lip.’’ For sheer,bright color, he blendsM.A.C.’s Lipmixes($11 at M.A.C. Pro stores;call 212-505-3563) tomake custom shades,and then sets the colorwith a slick of clear gloss.

Not everything in hismakeup kit is high-end.He uses Johnson’sBaby Oil Gel ($4 for6.5 ounces at DuaneReade stores) just abouteverywhere. ‘‘I put it onthe lips, the hands, the elbows,’’ he says.‘‘It’s great for layeringover eye shadow to setit. It’s fantastic stuff.’’

‘‘Sometimes I like a bitof a destroyed look, asmudgy, rock ’n’ roll eye,so a good eyeliner iscrucial.’’ (Try EstéeLauder’s Artist’s Eye Pencil, $19, orPure Color liquid

liner, $23; both atwww.esteelauder.com).He doesn’t have a petmascara — ‘‘any will do’’ — but prefers combapplicators to wands.When mascara is past its prime, Pecheux usesit on brows.

Another item in heavyrotation right now: theAmber Nude FaceGloss, from the TomFord Estée LauderCollection ($40 atwww.esteelauder.com).‘‘This is an amazingproduct,’’ Pecheux says,adding: ‘‘It gives you a sun-kissed look, thathealthy jet-set glow I love. For spring I will be using a lot of this type of gold. It’s not abaroque gold, but more like a pure, clean, Calvin Klein kind of gold. It’s the beach in a compact.’’ ■

THE FACE

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