Post on 02-Feb-2016
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Innovative Preservative Solutions
Dr. Matthias Kunze LANXESS Distribution GmbH
Barcelona, 16 April 2015
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Innovative Preservative Solutions
Topics
Status of cosmetic preservation
Innovative paraben alternatives
1. paraben-free
2. preservative-free
3. renewable
Efficacy tests
− MIC data
− challenge tests
Bild/Grafik Größe:
Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm
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Status of Cosmetic Preservation
Preservation Market Trends
paraben-free formulations
paraben-free claims
standard alternatives
Bild/Grafik Größe:
Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm
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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launches of skin care formulations containing parabens
SOURCE: MINTEL
⇒ phase out of parabens continues after stalling in 2013
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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launched skin care formulations claiming “free from parabens”
SOURCE: MINTEL
⇒ paraben-free claim still attractive
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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Summary
Parabens under pressure
phase-out of parabens continues
“free from parabens” claim increasingly popular
Standard paraben alternatives
formaldehyde donors not preferred (banned in Japan)
isothiazolinones heavily restricted
⇒ strong need for new alternatives
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Innovative Preservative Solutions
Innovative Paraben Alternatives
1. paraben-free
2. preservative-free
3. renewable
Bild/Grafik Größe:
Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: blend composition
Typical approach: phenoxyethanol + organic acids
organic acids cover weakness of phenoxyethanol vs. bacteria
organic acids require acidic environment
Solution: replacement of organic acids by triethylene glycol
good synergistic effect
suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10
brand name: Solbrol® TP (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol)
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: MIC data
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger
PhenoxyethanolSolbrol TP
Solbrol TP shows good performance against bacteria and fungi Solbrol TP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: blend composition
Typical approach: caprylyl glycol
free from preservatives
weakness in particular against bacteria
difficult to handle due to high viscosity
Solution: combination with phenethyl alcohol
well balanced preservation effect
suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10
brand name: Solbrol® CP (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol)
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: MIC data
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger
Caprylyl GlycolSolbrol CP
Solbrol CP is very effective also against bacteria Solbrol CP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: blend composition
Natural extracts: e.g. Bark extract from the white willow tree in propanediol
free from preservatives
ECOCERT certified
suitable for alkaline formulations up to pH 8
brand name: Solbrol® SP
INCI: Propanediol, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: MIC data
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
P. aeruginosa S. aureus A. niger C. albicans
PropanediolSolbrol SP
Solbrol SP is very effective against bacteria Solbrol SP is suitable for both acidic and mild alkaline environments
> 6 > 6 2
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Innovative Preservative Solutions
Challenge Tests
shampoo
wet wipe formulation
benchmarked against paraben blend Solbrol Mix P Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Butyl- and Isobutylparabenn
according to Ph. Eur. 7 - 5.1.3 “Efficacy of Antimicrobial Preservation”
Bild/Grafik Größe:
Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm
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Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation
INGREDIENT % (weight)
Deionised water 57.0
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 9.0
Propylene Glycol 5.0
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.4
C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 1.0
Sodium Hydroxide 0.5
pH = 6.7
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Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation
criteria A achieved by Solbrol TP and Solbrol CP at 0.4 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria A at 0.8 %
paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable
Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP
Concentration (%) 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
criteria A criteria B fail
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Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes
INGREDIENT % (weight)
Deionised Water 90.7
Glycerin 5.0
Propylene Glycol 2.0
Polysorbate 20 0.5
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5
Aloe Barbadensis 0.2
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1
30 g of solution on 10 g of cotton tissue pH = 6.0
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Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes
paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable
Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP
Concentration (%) 0.3 0.5 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
Solbrol CP achieves criteria B at 0.5 %, criteria A at 1 % Criteria B preservation achieved by Solbrol TP at 1 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria B at 1 %
criteria A criteria B fail
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Innovative Preservative Solutions Summary
Solbrol TP paraben-free blend
good alternative also for alkaline formulations (pH 10)
Solbrol CP preservative-free blend
high and well-balanced efficacy (up to pH 10)
Solbrol SP ECOCERT certified blend
especially active against bacteria, also works in mild alkaline environments (pH 8)
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