JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS

Feature Articles: Unknown Mountains in China

The First Ascent of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805m Tats叩（Tim) Inoue ｷｷ

Autumn 2009 Expedition to Eastern Tibet Tamotsu (Tom) Nakamura …...・H ・.....・ H ・······・H ・....・H ・－…· 18

The First Ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, Sichuan Kristoffer Szilas ····・H ・....・ H ・－…...・ H・－…...・H ・...・H ・ ·37

The First Ascent of Pt. 6,134m in the Minya Konka Massif Alexander Ruchkin …・…...・H ・...・ H ・ ···44

Bu’gyai Kangri Expedition: A Permission Issue in Tibet Takao Ohe ···・ H ・.....・H ・－－…...・ H ・.....・ H ・ ··48

The Direct South Face of Siguniang Yan Dongdomg …・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・ 53

Ascent of Lamo・She 6,070m in West Sichua 『I 2009 Tomas Obtulovic ····・H・.........・ H ・.....・ H・－－…·55

Unclimbed Summits in Sichuan China 2010 Tamotsu (Tom) Nakamura······ ・H ・－－…...・ H ・.....・H ・ H ・H ・ ··58

The Reconnaissance in Mayer Kangri and Jomo Ri Mountains Janusz Majer··· ・H ・....・ H ・...・H ・ ··65

On the Petals of Snow Lotus:

The Great White Jade Heist on Xueliang West Bruce Normand …・…....・H ・－…....・ H・－…・……・・・ 72

Climbs and Expediti。ns

Things Invisible to See: a quest for unknown mountains in China and Nepal Joe Puryear …84

Makalu: the first winter ascent and Cho Oyu: the Southeast Face Denis Urubko ・・H ・ H・－…… ···93

The West Face of Nemjung, Alpine Style Osamu Tanabe···· ・H ・－… H ・ H ・...・ H ・.....・H ・.....・ H ・.....・ H ・ ·····99

Spantik’s Golden Pillar, the Third Ascent Kazuaki Amano ・…....・ H・…H ・ H ・...・H ・H ・H ・.....・H ・....・ H ・－・・ 103

The Korean Golden Peak Climbing Team 2009 Kim Hyung-11 …H ・ H ・...・H ・ H ・H ・...・ H ・...・ H ・......・ H ・ ··107

Exploration of Veiled Reru Valley in Zanskar, India Kimikazu Sakamoto· …....・ H・－………・……・・ 110

Lilio Chhish 5, 708m, Pakistan-Japan Joint Party Kazuo Sato ・…....・ H・...・H ・....・ H・－………H ・ H ・ 117

First Austrian Queen-Maud-Land Expedition Antarctica 2009 Christoph Hoebenreich ….....・ H ・ 122

Greenland Climbing Expedition-Ragni di Lecco Simone Pedefer「l …………………...・H ・.....・ H ・－－… 125

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Editor Published by: Tsunemichi Ikeda The Japanese Alpine Club E-mail ikedar@poppy.ocn.ne.jp 5-4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0081, Japan Associate editor Phone: 03-3261-4433 Faxｷ 03-3261 ・4441

Tamotsu Nakamura E-mail ｷ jac刊om@jac.or.jpE-mail t-naka@est.hi-ho.ne.jp Web : http://www.jac.or.jp Design & Printing http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jac_e.htm Tokyo Printing Co., Ltd開。2010The Japanese Alpine Club

Regional N。tes

Notable Japanese Climbs in the Himalayas 2009 Tsu円emichi Ikeda …...・H・－……H ・H ・. . .・ H ・ ...・ H ・ ··128

Expeditions to the Indian Himalaya 2009 Harish Kapadia …. . .・H ・.....・H ・－ － … . ..・H ・－－… . .. ・ H ・.....・ H ・ · ·133

Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Pakistan During 2009 Karrar Haidri …141

Special Contributi。n

Japanese First Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru A円tonio (Sevi) Gomez Bohrquez … ...・ H ・ ··146

Cover photo Maraipo Glacier, Lake Jambo Tso and surrounding unclimbed 6,000m peaks east of Jingling, Nyainqentanglha East. Tamotsu Nakamura