Post on 01-Nov-2014
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The Mahashivaratri festival is upon us, so I thought it appropriate to post about
the World’s Largest Bronze Nataraja at Konerirajapuram.
Konerirajapuram is a sleepy little village surrounded by paddy fields in Tamil Nadu’s fertile
and historicCauvery Delta. In ancient times it was known as TiruNallam.
Konerirajapuram’s claim to fame is the huge bronze cast icon of Lord Siva as Nataraja at
the Uma Maheswarar temple. This is bigger than the Nataraja at Chidambaram.
Priest Gnanaskandan next to the idols of Nataraja and Mangalanayagi
Ancient inscriptions record that the temple was built from an endowment set up by the
Chola queen Sembiyan Mahadevi [also spelt Chembiyan Maa Devi] in the reign of Uttama
Chola.
The unpretentious entrance to the temple is simple and devoid of the typical Gopuram
towers. Who would believe what priceless treasures are housed within!
Daily Annadanam or feeding of the poor is held in the main hall [Pugazhabharana
Mandapam] of the temple.
Sri Gnanaskandan is the hereditary priest in charge. He is a friendly soul, enthusiastic
about showing off his temple to those who are interested. Here he is in front of the
Sivalingam.
The big Nataraja is housed in a separate enclosure constructed in such a way that the idol
can never be removed without breaking the structure.
Bronze icons were made in the lost wax or cire perdue process in the Chola era. The
tradition continues to this day at nearby Nachiar Koil and Swamimalai where a number of
bronze and brass works turn out a variety of finely crafted, exquisite idols, lamps and other
objects. The state government owned Poompuhar also has a workshop in both these
locations.
Gnanaskandan proudly led us into a small ante room off the Nataraja enclosure where a
smaller collection of castings of various deities were displayed. All these bronzes reportedly
date prior to the tenth century.
The Nataraja remains where it is but the smaller idols are taken out on ceremonial
occassions.
Here is Gnanaskandan with a niche sculpture of Agasthya Rishi
Queen Sembiyan Mahadevi in prayer before the Lingam. Observe the inscription below the
frieze.
Exquisite niche sculpture of Lord Siva as Nataraja
Ancient Inscriptions
The Konerirajpuram temple is also well known for its beautiful frescoes. Sadly most are not
well preserved with obvious signs of deterioration.
Some of the frescoes from the later Nayaka period are painted over the earlier frescoes.
This one depicts a scene from daily life
Damaged frescoes on the roof of the main hall. The temple lamp is also seen in this picture,
along with bikes casually parked amidst these priceless treasures ….
This is an interesting depiction of the British official making an offering to the temple in
gratitude for being cured of leprosy.
The Vaidyanathar sannidhi within the temple is locally well known as a healing centre for
those afflicted with skin disease.
Small Vimanam
This was our second visit to Konerirajapuram. We had first read about it in Temples of
Tamil Nadu by AV Shankaranarayana Rao. The village and the temple exude an
ambience of centuries gone by, subtly urging one to return.
The Cauvery Delta is steeped in history and strewn with innumerable ancient living
temples containing priceless works of art. On both visits, we stayed at Kumbakonam from
where Konerirajapuram is a mere 25 minute drive on the Karaikal route.
Kumbakonam is well known as a pilgrimage centre, in particular for those on the
Navagraha circuit. Once in every twelve years, the Mahamaham Kumbh is held around the
tank of the same name, attracting millions of pilgrims from far and wide. Kumbakonam is
also called Temple City with literally hundreds of temples of its own, most of them ancient.
The big two are the Kumbeswarar Siva Temple and Sarangapani Vishnu Temple.
Swamimalai, one of the six abodes of Lord Murugan is a mere 6 km away. The World
Heritage Site of Darasuram is just outside the city. The Cauvery Delta is a must visit for
those who enjoy ancient living monuments and stepping back in time.