Maintaining the Lawn

Maintaining the Lawn• Applying lime

• sulfur

• fertilizer

Lime• Should be applied when

necessary to keep the pH between 6.0 and 6.5

• Late fall and winter are the best times to apply lime

Lime• moves through the soil

slowly at a rate of about 1/2 to 1 inch per year

Sulfur• should be used on soils that

are alkaline to adjust the pH

Fertilizer• annual applications of

fertilizer are needed

• Nitrogen leaches through the soil and must be replaced regularly

Fertilizer• Lawns require high N

fertilizer

Nitrogen• can be applied in an organic

form which acts as a slow release nutrient that does not burn the grass and supplies N over a longer period of time

Fertilizer• should be applied with a

spreader just prior to the active growing season

Mowing• two types of mowers;

• reel

• rotary

Mowing• close mowing of 1/2 to 1

inch is done most efficiently with a reel mower

Mowing• most lawns are cut too short

because the homeowner believes that the lawn looks best when short

Mowing• a very short cutting reduces

the leave area of the plant so much that it cannot make enough food

Mowing• Cutting the grass too short

also encourages weed growth

• Cool season grasses should not be cut shorter than 2-3 inches

Mowing• Warm season grasses are cut

1/2 to 11/4 inches depending on the variety

• Warm season grasses grow faster in warm weather

Mowing• Warm season grasses are

better able to compete with weeds.

Mowing• Lawns should be mowed

often enough that no more than 1/3 of the top is removed.

Mowing• mower blades should be kept

sharp at all times so the grass blades are cut not torn off

Mowing• Mulching mowers eliminate

the need to remove clippings from the lawn and reduce fertilizer needs by 50%

Mowing• lawns should be cut so that

they are cut at right angles to the direction of the previous mowing.

Mowing• This eliminates compaction,

gives the lawn a more even appearance and reduces thatch build up

Mowing• Each pass over the lawn should

slightly overlap the previous one

• If lawn is too tall clippings should be collected and removed

Mowing• Heavy build up on the lawn

shades out light and kills the grass.

• Causes a thatch build up that reduces soil aeration

Mowing• damages roots and provides a

breeding place for disease and insects

Growth Regulators• Can be applied by spraying

on the lawn which will slow the growth of the grass and reduce the number of times the lawn must be mowed.

Growth Regulators• An example is PRIMO

Watering• At least one inch of water

should be applied in each application

• one inch of water is equivalent to 1/2 gallon per square foot

Watering• Applying less than one inch

does more harm than good.

• Watering shallowly, the plants root system is not forced to grow deeply into the soil

Watering• A healthy lawn can go

dormant and withstand a great deal of dry weather without being damaged.

Watering• The grass will become green

and actively grow after the next good rain

Problems• Weeds:

• If lawns are heavily infested with weeds, chemical herbicides should be used to eliminate the problem

Weeds• are usually an indication of

poor maintenance practices

• two types of weed killers used on lawns are pre-emergence and post-emergence

Post Emergence• herbicides are applied after

weeds sprout and begin to grow• Many chemicals are selective

and only kill certain types of plants

Selective herbicides• make it possible to select a

chemical that will kill almost everything but the grass

Diseases• most turf diseases are caused by

fungi - parasitic plants

• Fungi live in and on dead grass and in the soil where they attack the grass and rob the soil of nutrients.

Diseases• Fungus diseases are spread

easily by mowing or simply walking across the infected area especially if the grass is wet

Diseases• for fungal diseases to cause

serious problems, there must be:

• grass plants on which fungus can live

Fungal diseases• fungus spores and a means of

spreading them to the grass

• temperature and moisture conditions favorable to the growth of fungi

Disease prevention• do not over use N

• maintain a pH of 6.0-6.5

• avoid thatch buildup

disease prevention• water only when necessary

and then water deeply

• mow frequently, remove only 1/3 of top growth

Disease Prevention• keep trees pruned to allow

sufficient light for good growth

Insect Control• can cause serious damage to

lawns

• spraying of application of granular insecticide may be necessary

Lawn renovation• Reasons lawns fail

• wrong species or variety of grass

Reasons lawns fail• improper mowing

• cutting to short, not cutting frequently enough

Improper fertilizing• applying fertilizer too late in the

spring for cool season grasses.

• Apply a few weeks before the grass begins its active growing stage

Fertilizing• Use slow release, high N

fertilizer according to soil test results

Improper Watering• failure to apply enough water

to soak the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches

• Water one inch per week

Heavy Traffic• plant varieties that are known

for durability such as the tall fescues

Excessive shade• plant shade tolerant grass or

other ground cover

• Improper soil preparation prior to planting

Infestation• of weeds, diseases and or

insects

Thatch• speed thatch rotting by

maintaining a pH of 6.0 -6.5

• remove thatch with a thatching rake or machine

Thatch control• layer of dead stems, leaves

and roots which build up on the soil surface

Thatch control• may prevent water from

penetrating soil

• prevents proper aeration

• provide breeding area for insects and disease

Thatch build up• not adjusting mower blade

properly

• returning clippings to the lawn

• heavy fertilizing

Thatch build up• heavy clay soil

• acidic soil

Compacted soil• most needed lawn

maintenance is aeration

• compaction robs plant roots of oxygen and water

Compacted soil• recommended treatment is

use of a plugger

• pulls out plugs of soil

• leaves holes in lawn for air and water to enter

Weed infestation• when more than one third of

the lawn is dead and large bare spots exist

• May be better to kill the remaining lawn and start over

Weed infestation• Apply “Round up” and re seed

the area

• after grass is killed the entire lawn is dug up and the seedbed reworked and prepared for seeding

Thin lawns• remove thatch

• work up soil

• add seed use a roller to press the seed into the soil

thin lawns• Apply weed killers to control

broadleaf weeds as needed

• fertilize with slow release high N

• mow properly and follow good maintenance practices

Spot seeding• any bare spot that covers a

foot or more should be treated

• follow the same process for seeding a new lawn

Spot patching• remove good sod from

inconspicuous area and patch the weak area by digging up the sod and replacing it with good sod

Spot patching• press the sod into place

• water and fertilize accordingly