Post on 25-May-2015
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Coastal Environments: The Basics
• 97% of all water on our planet is in the
oceans.
• Fresh water represents the remaining 3%
(2/3 is snow and ice in glaciers / polar ice
caps).
• Liquid and solid water cover roughly 3/4 of
Earth's surface area.
• 29% of the earth’s surface is above sea level
(71% is below )
Unique properties of water
• Absorbs or releases more heat than most other substances for every temperature degree of change
• Water is a good solvent and can dissolve more substances than other fluids, even rocks
• Water exists in 3 physical states that can power thunderstorms/hurricanes and help transport the sun's energy, nutrients, and organisms
More than half the
world's population
live within 60km
of a coastline
[In the US, half live within
80 km, on less than 17%
of the land area…]
South Florida, USA
Overview
• Chemical properties of water
– H bonds
– Ice
– Salinity and Sources
• Physical properties of water
– Biomechanics
– Density
– Temperature
• Major ocean basins of the world
– Chemical signatures (depth and latitude)
• Coastal Systems
– Sandy beaches, rocky coasts, estuaries, deltas, reefs
Chemical properties of water
A. Hydrogen Bonds
B. Crystalline Structure
C. Surface Tension
D. Tensile Strength
E. Specific Heat
F. Evaporation
G. Molecular Interactions
H. Movement and Transport
Chemical properties of water
A. Hydrogen Bonds
B. Crystalline Structure
C. Surface Tension
D. Tensile Strength
E. Specific Heat
F. Evaporation
G. Molecular Interactions
H. Movement and Transport
Hydrogen Bonds
O
H H
d-
d+ d+
Hydrogen Bonds
Hydrogen Bonds
WATER VAPOR
3 physical states of water:
Crystalline Structure
Crystalline Structure
Ice
Surface tension
Water has high surface tension due to
lateral and downward attraction between
individual molecules, which stretches the
water's surface, creating a thin skin
O
H H
d-
d+ d+
Surface tension
Water has high surface tension due to
lateral and downward attraction between
individual molecules, which stretches the
water's surface, creating a thin skin
Surface tension
• Water striders can walk upon the water's surface.
• Members of the neuston depend upon the surface film of
water for transport and food.
• Liquid water on surfaces to which it does not adhere well
"beads-up."
• Surface tension of the water allows wind to push against
it, generating waves in large water bodies.
• [Detergents reduce the surface tension of water (by as
much as 70%) and allows it to spread out on a surface.]
Tensile strength
Water is strong under tension.
The force needed to pull pure water apart can be as much as 3 x 107 Newtons/m2
120 lbs = 530 Newtons
Limpet attachment strength = 1 x 106 Newtons/m2
Specific heat
Water can absorb a great deal of energy which goes to
breaking hydrogen bonds but does not lead to measurable
temperature increases.
Because of the massive number of hydrogen bonds in water,
it requires a lot of energy to see even a small change in
water temperature.
Evaporation
A water molecule makes the transition from
a liquid phase into a gas phase.
Because the escaping molecule had a higher
than average energy level, it leaves the
liquid cooler (lower in energy) upon
evaporation.
Hydrogen Bonds - Summary
• High heat capacity (1 cal/g/C);
• Heat of vaporization (540 cal/g);
• Heat of fusion (-80 cal/g);
• Solid less dense than liquid phase;
• High surface tension
Molecular interactions
Solutes
Dissociation of Water Molecules
KD = [H+][OH-]/[H2O] = 1.8 x 10-16 M
where KD is the dissociation constant
(equilibrium constant) for the dissociation
of a proton from a water molecule (the
smaller the KD, the stronger the binding)
pH of solutions
pH - an index of the relative concentration of
H+ ions in solution
[H+] = [OH-] = 10-7 M in pure water ([H2O] = 55 M)
pH -log10[H+]
In pure water, pH = 7
pH of solutions
• The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14
• The higher the pH, the lower the [H+]
(alkaline, basic solutions have a high pH)
• The lower the pH, the higher the [H+]
(acidic solutions have a lower pH)
pH of solutions
Examples:
Gastric juice = 1.0 Seawater 8.0
Orange juice = 4.3 Urine = 6-8.0
Blood plasma = 7.4 Ammonia = 12.0
pH and the sea
• A difference in pH from 8 to 7.8 can
significantly decrease coral growth rates
• Increased CO2 in the atmosphere lowers pH
• Active photosynthesis and nitrogenous
waste excretion can increase local pH
Water as a polar solvent and Salinity
Strong Electrolytes (substances that dissociate
completely when dissolved in water - ions)
Salts consist of ions:
NaCl Na+ + Cl- salt
HCl H+ + Cl- strong acid
NaOH Na+ + OH- strong base
For strong electrolytes, KD
Water as a polar solvent
Weak Electrolytes (substances that dissociate in
water only to a small extent (KD 10-3 M to
10-11 M)
H2CO3 H+ + HCO3- KD = 1.7 x 10-4 M
KD 10-3 M to 10-11 M
Carbon dioxide-carbonate equilibrium
CO2(aq) + H2O(l) H2CO3(aq) (Carbonic acid)
CaCO3(s) + 2 H+(aq) Ca2+(aq) + H2CO3(aq)
H2CO3 H+ + HCO3
- KD = 4.2 × 10-7
HCO3- H+ + CO3
2- KD = 4.8 × 10-11
CO2(g) CO2(aq) (CO2 from the atmosphere
dissolves into seawater)
bicarbonate
carbonate
High CO2= low [CO32- ]
Ocean acidification
Water as a polar solvent
Because of its small size and polar nature, water
dissolves many materials, more than any other
liquid
Oceans of water act as sink for CO2 molecules –
leads to acidification
Seawater contains almost every known naturally
occurring element
Seawater constituents
Component
Concentration
Percentage of Salinity
chloride
18.98
55.03
sodium
10.56
30.59
sulfate
2.65
7.68
magnesium
1.27
3.68
calcium
0.40
1.18
potassium
0.38
1.11
bicarbonate
0.14
0
Seawater constituents
•Average ocean water has a salinity of 35.0
•This means that 1000 g of average seawater contains 965 g
of water and 35 g of salts.
Seawater
constituents
Dissolved
chemicals
Sediments
Eroded rock
particles
Volcanic ash and
igneous rocks
on land
Wind, water, and
ice erosion
River and wind
transport and
deposition
Sedimentary rock
on oceanic crust
Sedimentary rock
on land
Biological uptake, or
absorption of
particles, or
precipitation
Wind, water, and
ice erosion
Fallout of volcanic
ash over oceans
Compaction and
water loss Subduction, melting,
and vulcanism
Scraped of and uplifted
ot subduction zone
Seawater constituents
Seawater constituents
Seawater constituents
From U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 03–028, January
2003 African Dust Carries Microbes Across the Ocean: Are They
Affecting Human and Ecosystem Health?
Movement and Transport
Diffusion – high concentrations low concentration
Air vs. water
Mass transport – particles carried by fluid flow
Diffusion
high concentration low concentration
C = concentration
D = diffusion coefficient
x = length
t = time
Mass Transport
high concentration low concentration
Physical properties of water
•Viscosity
•Reynolds number, Boundary
Layers, and Mass transport
•Density
•Temperature
Water as a fluid
Fluid (flu·id) French fluide, from Latin fluidus,
from fluere to flow; akin to Greek phlyzein to boil
over):
having particles that easily move and change their
relative position without a separation of the mass and
that easily yield to pressure; capable of flowing.
What is a fluid?
Viscosity (m): the resistance of a fluid to motion or internal
friction
Reynolds number (Re): the ratio of inertial forces to viscous
forces in a fluid
Density (r): the mass of a substance per unit volume
Viscosity
The viscosity of liquids can vary drastically and
decreases rapidly with an increase in temperature.
m = 1 x 10-3 N s/m2 m = 50 N s/m2 At 20º C
At 100º C m = 0.07 N s/m2
Reynolds number
Reynolds number
Re = rUx/m
Reynolds number
Re = rUx/m
Re = 1
Re = 108
Boundary Layers and Mass Transport
Re = 101
Laminar Turbulent
Boundary Layers
Boundary Layers and Mass Transport
Re = 103
Re = 108
Major basins
Major basins
1
2
3
4
5
Major basins –
General Characteristics Pacific Ocean
• average depth 3,940 m
• extensive marginal seas, volcanic
island systems, and trenches
• considerable mountain building and
earthquake activity along
boundaries (Ring of Fire)
• little freshwater input
Atlantic Ocean
• average depth 3,310 m
• large freshwater input (Amazon,
Congo, Mississippi, Niger, Orinoco
Rivers)
Indian Ocean
• average depth 3,840 m
• large sediment input (Indus and Ganges River Deltas)
Arctic Ocean
• average depth 1,038 m
• centered on the north pole
• shallow and land-locked
• covered by sea ice
• large sediment input from active glaciers
Southern Ocean
• average depth 4,000 m
• continuous ring of water around Antarctica
• coldest of all oceans (near freezing)
• extensive winter sea ice coverage
• most biologically productive ocean
Marginal Seas
Surrounding the Atlantic Ocean is the Sargasso Sea (1), Weddell Sea (2), the
Caribbean Sea (3), the North Sea (4), and the Mediterranean Sea (5).
Surrounding the Pacific Ocean is the Ross Sea (6), the Coral Sea (7), the
South China Sea (8), the Sea of Japan (9), the Sea of Okhotsk (10), the Bering
Sea (11), and the Sea of Cortez (12) (also called the Gulf of California).
Surrounding the Indian Ocean is the Red Sea (13), the Arabian Sea (14), and
the Bay of Bengal (15). Surrounding the Arctic Ocean is the Bering Sea (11),
the Laptev Sea (16), the Barents Sea (17), and the Beaufort Sea (18).
Largest, smallest, deepest, saltiest
Pacific Ocean =
1/3 globe (18 x US)
1/2 world ocean
The Arctic Ocean is the
smallest (area = 9,485,000
sq km, or < 1/10 Pacific)
Top 10 Deepest Trenches 1 Mariana
2 Tonga
3 Philippine
4 Kermadec
5 Bonin
6 New Britain
7 Kuril
8 Izu
9 Puerto Rico
10 Yap
1
2
3
4
5 7 6
8
10
9
Mariana Trench = 35,802 ft (10,912 m)
Puerto Rico Trench
8,400 m (5.2 miles)
Highest Salinity
Red Sea salinity ranges
between 36 and 38 psu
Dead Sea salinity = 360 psu
Ocean basins
Ocean basins
Ocean basins
To “sail the seven seas” (< 1400’s) =
1. Adriatic Sea
2. Black Sea
3. Caspian Sea
4. Mediterranean Sea
5. Red Sea
6. Persian Gulf
7. Indian Ocean