SPME First End Term Jury

Topics-1.Overlock Machine2. Flatlock Machine

Presented by: Aditya Meena

DFT-3

Overlock Machine

Introduction-Overlock machine is a special purpose machine

used for finishing edges and sometime for seaming. It falls under the 500.

Stitch type in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads and have a genral characteristics that loops from atleast one

group of threads pass around around the edge of material.

Machine Terminology:

•Bed: working surface.• Differential feed• Differential feed regulator• Feed dog• Hand wheel• Knives• Dummy needle• Head

Lower looper Needle bar Presser bar lifter Presser foot Presser foot lifter Spreader Stitch length regulator Table Thread finger or stitch tongue Upper looper Width selection knob.

Basic features:• Generally called a serger in home sewing.• Makes a class 500 that trims, stitch and overcast seams as they sew.• Upto 1,500 stitches per minute.• Stitch length vary from 0-5mm.• Used to sew wide variety of items- from placemats to draperies and even sportswear.• Stitch is very elastic and can stretch upto 300%.

• Decorative effects can be achieved using special threads in loopers.• In some, upper knife can be rotated up to disengage the cutting action.• Stitch can be made using 2,3,4, or 5 threads, depending on the no. of needles and loopers.• Seams sewn with a combination of conventional and overlock stitching can be used in a variety of fabrics and garment styles.

Selecting an overlock machine

:Two thread overlock:• Stitch type 503.• One needle and one looper.• Best for finishing seam edges and allowances.• Has little effect on fabric drape, and rarely causes apressing imprint.•Frequently used for serging edges on men’s slacks,lightweight fabrics or when using heavier decorativethreads .

• Used wear when stitching active wear, elastic and lace.Also hems can be sewn.• Unsuitable for seaming, because does not hold pliessecurely, causing seam grim when stressed.• Can be adjusted to sew a rolled edge.

Three Thread overlock

• Stitch type 504, most common overedge stitch.• Also called basic serging stitch.• One needle and two loopers.• Stitch looks the same on both sides (good for reversibles).• It has excellent stretch and recovery.• Has narrow bight(3-5mm).

• Used for finishing edges as a narrow, decorative,rolled edge on napkins and scarves.• Also for seaming budget garments.• Most useful for sewing knits, wovens (not in areas thatreceive stress).• Can be used as a stable seam finish on looselyconstructed, ravel prone fabrics.

Four thread overlock:• It will stitch a chain stitch or a safety stitch as it stitchesand overcasts seams.• Two needles and two loopers.• Can be converted to both two and three thread overlock. • All 4 threads are necessary to sew a serged seam.

Four thread overlock with safety stitch:

•Suitable for sewing both woven and knits.• Can be used in areas that receive stress.•Suitable for sewing blouses, shirts, skirts, dresses,•pants, lingerie, actionwear, swimwear, and even•sleepwear.

Four thread overlock and chainstitch:

•The left needle and the lower looper form a 2-thread•chain stitch.• Suitable when sewing woven fabrics, even in area of stress.• Stitch does not stretch therefore not used in knitted garment.•Used when sewing shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, sleepwear, draperies.• Used when fitting garments, since stitches are easily removed.• Used when a wider seam allowance is desirable for strength (upholstery).

Five thread overlock:

• A 2-thread chain stitch combined with a 3-thread overlock.• 2 needles and 3 loopers.• The left needle and lower looper form a 2-thread chain stitch.• The seam is very durable, particularly for wovens.•Can sew rolled edges with either 2-thread or 3-thread stitch.•A very wide seam width is created when the chain is serged with 2 or 3 thread stitch.

Disadvantages of overedge machines:

• Can’t be used to attach patch pockets or for top stitching as it would trim along the seam line thus destroying the fabric.• High thread users.• Seams stitched must be pressed to one side rather than being pressed open and flat.

Flatlock Machine

Introduction-A feed-off-the-arm coverstitch machine that sews a flat, nonraveling seam by joining abutted edges with a top-and-bottom covering stitch.

Brand Details-Manufacturer- YamatoModel Number- vg 3721-1565iwfi/4819890

Machine Bed-a) Size of a machine bed-80*110 mmb) Type of bed-cylindrical bedc) Bed dimension from the needle(mm)1. right-103 2. Back-433. Front-674. Left-69

Head Pulley-a) Direction Of rotation-anticlockwiseb)location-extreame right of the machine from the operators sidec)Saftey Feature- Cover is provided winding of thread into the pulley.

Stitcha) Stitch type-chainb) Stitch Number-605c) Stitching mechnism-interlooping

Needlea) Number Of Needles-3b) type-vy128c) Mounting- Needle is inserted into the top most Position and the screw is tightened to the top most pointd) Scraf Position-12 O’ Clock from operators sidee) Needle Point-set Point

Needle Threading sequence

a) Thread Eyeletb) Thread arm guidec) Tension Deviced) Eyelete) Lubrication boxf) eyeletg) Thread Guideh) Needle eye

Looper Threading sequence

a) Thread Eyelet on the main standb) Eyeletc) Tension deviced) Eyelete) Tension Devicef) Eyeletg) Thread Guideh) Looper

Tension Devicea) Location- front side, towards the right of the operatorB) Type- Washer pressed by spring with the help of the nut.C) Description- 5 Tension Device

Throat Plate-Mounting- on the machine bed with the help of the screw.

Feeding Mechanism1) Feed Doga) Number of rows-5b) Number of teeth-25, 25, 16, 7, 8 Respectively

2) Pressure Foota) Description- Spring Type B) Mounting- Spring Pressure Foot barC) Lift- Foot Lifter

3) Needle Movement- Reciprocating

Thank You!