P"e Four

England's Most

(Acme photo.)

CapL Eo Ii. Molyn.ux. war h.ro andPar i • couturi.r. who d•• ign.ddr..... for Prince.. Marina in the

"l.an days,"

By BETTINA BEDWELL(Copyright: 1987: By Chicago Tribune-

N. Y. News Syndicate, Inc.)London.

THE duchess of Kent hasagain been named Eng·land's most elegant worn-

an this autumn, and acrossthe channel in Paris they lookand likewise bow to her waywith clothes. The former Prln-cess Marina has everything itt a k e s -- a lovely figure, car-riage, beauty, and magnificentjewels. London dressmakerswho don't get her' patronagehave been telling me how easy itis to dress her, and they shaketheir heads over what falls tothem in the way elf duchesses.But Marina stays faithful toMolyneux, who dressed her inher lean days when she was just"one of the Greek princesses,"with little to spend, and one ofan exiled royal family ..

The duchess of Kent's story ismuch like Cinderella's. She hadyears as meager as the boarding

house years of the duchess ofWindsor, though she was a royalprincess. When she lived inParis, before her marriage, shehad to shop around for bargains.She used to be proud, like you orme, of the blouse she picked upfor 50 francs, and wistful aboutthe marvelous fur c 0 a t shecouldn't at!ord to buy. She livedwith her parents in a modestapartment and occupied a nar-row, plain room, to which shesometimes goes back even now.

• • •Today there isn't a dressmak-

er who wouldn't put down thered carpet for the duchess ofKent, but in those days it wasanother story, and no jeweler inthe Rue de la Paix was sendingaround his choicest emeralds anddiamonds for her to choose. Shehad the modest jewelry of ayoung girl of good family, which

CLic:aao Sandal' Tribane

Elegant WomanDuchess of Kent Has

Everything It Takeswas like a candle set in the mid-dIe of the Paris exposition besidewhat the duchess of Kent has,and wears, today.

It may be the memory ofthose days that makes her sofond of wearing her jewels now.She likes to wear earrings, twosplendid clips, rings, and a neck-lace with some of her simplestdresses, and with evening clothesshe may be seen wearing acouple of fortunes on her comelyperson.

While the duchess has exqul-site taste in all her clothes, sheshows a love of luxury whichmay well stem from her earlierpoverty. She always wears mag-

Th. duch•••• wh.n .he wa. .till "ju.t on. of the Gr.ek princ••• e•••••tudie.a Molyn.ux creation in hi. Paris .alon b.fore her wedding in 1933 to

Prine. George. duke of KenL (Acme photo.,

nificent silver foxes with herplain wool suits, even when rash-ion dictators consider them outof style. She likes the finest ofmaterials, but never conspicuousones. This winter she is wearinga great deal of black velvet, thenew deep pile all-silk velvet

which costs about $25 a yardwholesale.

Marina chose brown, as did theduchess of Windsor, for severalof her daytime ensembles thisfall. The brown is a light wal-nut shade, and a Molyneux modelis one of her dresses in this color.It is made of marvelously softwool with a deep nap and cutsimply, following the lines of thefigure to the hips and breakinginto a plaited. skirt below. Itbuttons under the left arm andhas long fitted sleeves and a

The duche•• i. greet.d by Italy'•• ix·foot·six duke of Ao.ta. The formerPrine... Marina is wearing on. of her famous .Uver foxes with a plain

wool .uit. despite fa.hion·. dictates. (Acme photo.)

Who Were the Pilqrim Fathers?

(Acme photo.)

Th. landing at Plymouth, England. from which the Mayflower sailed in 1620with the Pilgrim father.. The voyag-er. had b.en forc.d to abandon a s.cond ship, the Speedw.ll.

(Continu.d from page ene.)band of Separatists establisheda church in Gainsborough, Lin-colnshire, and four years latersome of the members of this con-gregation withdrew and set upa new church a short distance tothe west, at Scrooby, Netting-hamshire. Both establishmentswere targets for the wrath ofthe orthodox. Imprisonmentsand fines were penalties that themembers of the congregationsfrequently were called UP0{l tobear. To escape persecutionsuch as this a number from eachchurch in 1607 and 1608 fied toHolland. They settled first inAmsterdam, but in 1609 thoseoriginally fro m the Scroobychurch removed to Leiden underthe leadership of John RObinson.At this point, so far as any con-nection with the establishmentof the Plymouth colony is concerned, the Gainsborough branchof the Separatists fades from thepicture. Its members remained

for the time being in Amsterdam.In Leiden the Scrooby exiles

had complete freedom of wor-ship, but nothing else in connec-tion with their residence therewas satisfactory. Being onlyfarmhands and workers by theday, the men of the group couldearn little money. The Dutchcraftsmen's guilds would nothave permitted them to competein the skilled trades even if theyhad had the ability. Children ofthe exiles were' beginning togrow up. There was the fear thatthey would intermarry with theHollanders, that the purity oftheir stock and the sacred tenetsof their faith would be threat-ened. The Separatists of Leidendesired most anxiously to returnto the protection of the Britishflag. But as they did not wantto return to the persecutionsof England, there was bornamong the leaders the idea thatthe group should migrate toAmerica.

As emphasized before, thesepeople were desperately poor inthe beginning. After their so-journ in Holland they were stillpoorer. They had no funds withwhich to flnance the exodus tothe new world. Although theVirginia Company of London, anorganization formed for the pur-pose of developing for profit aportion of the new world, hadgiven them permission to settlein the Chesapeake bay country,they probably never would havebeen able to depart from Europewere it not for the. fact that sev-enty London merchants raisedan average of 100 pounds ster-ling apiece to see them through.This sum, 7,000 pounds, repre-sented the capital stock of acompany t hat was formed.Against this the churchmen putup their labor for a period ofseven years. Each share in thecompany was val u e d at 10pounds, and the labor of eachmale above the age of 16 was

considered as equivalent in valueto an investor's one share. Todaythis would seem to be a cruel ex-ploitation of labor, but the Sepalratists in Leiden were willing toaccept almost any terms to getto America.

In July, 1620, a number fromthe colony in Leiden sailed fromDelftshaven to Southampton.In two vessels, the Mayflowerand the Speedwell, about 135 ofthem set sail for America. TheSpeedwell proved to be a veryunseaworthy craft, so, after twoattempts to utilize the ship, thevoyagers finally abandoned herand on Sept. 6 set out fromPlymouth in the one ship, theMayfiower. There we r e 102aboard (some authorities givethe number as only 100),

•••The story of the voyage of the

Mayfiower, the route of which istraced on the larger map on pageone, is an epic of American his-tory. The ship itself was a smallcraft for such a perilous cruise.Barely 100 feet long and of only180 tons burden, it was a double-decker with three tall masts, andit rolled in heavy seas. If itshold contained all the grand-father's clocks and spinningwheels subsequently credited toits cargo lists it was indeed aheavily laden ship.

It was a cold, gray, and unln-viting day, wit h the wavesbreaking white on a flat sandybeach, when the shallop of theMayfiower brought in its firstcompany of Pilgrims to stepashore on Plymouth Rock. TheMayflower had brought the voy·agers to the bleak shore of Mas-sachusetts instead of to themore pleasant land of the Ches-apeake bay country, for whichthey originally had sailed. Thewind had driven the ship far tothe north of its course. Andthere also is a story to the et-fect that the pilot of the vesselhad been bribed to bring theship to land in territory of thePlymouth company, an organl-zation similar to the Londoncompany. At any rate, it was in

the Plymouth company grantfrom the king that the firstEnglish settlement in New Eng·land was made. The captain ofthe ship refused to take the set-tIers farther south, and there,around historic Plymouth Rock,they erected their first crudeshelters.

How these stern, uncompro-mising religionists, under theleadership of John Carver, Wil·llam Bradford, the historian ofthe colony; Myles Standish, thesoldier, and others equally braveand resourceful, held the littlecolony together through the direhardships of the remainder ofthat winter and through aspring and summer of threaten-ing famine is almost unparal-leled in historical annals. Whenautumn came and they reapedtheir first harvest to meet theirdesperate' need for food, theyset aside a day for the purposeof giving thanks. Other coloniesin America I ate r proclaimeddays of thanksgiving, and thusgrew the custom now observedannuaily on the last Thursdayin November.

During the first year many ofthe Pilgrims died. Even theirsystem of 10 c a I governmentfailed to work, and in 1623 theaforementioned William Brad·

A silver mod.l of the Mayflow.rwrought in 1920to celebrate the t.r.c.ntennial of the landing of the

Pilgrims in Massachus.tt ••

plaited, draped collar. Londonis all excited over the shortnessof the skirt, which is about fif·

teen inches from the ground.They ar.e bothered, too, about theduchess launching plaits. I sawher wearing this dress in Londonunder a short leopard sports coatand with a small leopard hat.She looked very smart and reallybeautiful.

To wear under a magnificentmink coat the duchess of Kenthas another Molyneux dressmade of black crepe woven tolook tucked from top to bottom,with a wide band of dark greentucked wool crepe set in themiddle and crossed by a narrowblack lether belt.

• ••One of the duchess' black vel-

vet afternoon suits has a short,closely fitted jacket that buttonsup the front to a big, luxurioussUver fox collar. The skirt isslender and plain and the duch-ess wears a severe black satinblouse with this suit. The blousehas a high, round neckline whichis perfect for pearls or one of hersplendid emerald or sapphirenecklaces. The long sleeves areshirred and buttoned along theforearms. Molyneux made this.

One of her most beautiful eve-ning gowns, which Captain Moly-neux designed for her, is blackvelvet, with a skirt which takesyards and yards of this splendidmaterial. The bodice is low cutat the back and has draped andcrossed shoulder straps.

(Photo fr-. Tribune London Bureau.)

England's mo.t elegant woman.Th. duche•• of Kent hal .xp.nsi .•••

but .xcenent ta.t ••

Plymouth Rock. the terminus of the voyage that started at Plymouth,England, This bowlder is preserv.d in a shrine at the spot where thePilgrim. are said to have stepped fromthe Mayflower's small landing boa•••

ford, then governor, ordered itabolished. The colony finally set-tled with its London backers for1,800 pounds sterling, and inabout 1691, seventy years later,when it had a population of only7,000, it was merged into thelarger Massachusetts Bay col-ony.

Early Massachusetts, with theexception of the Plymouth col-ony, was largely Puritan. From1620 to 1642 about 14,000 per-sons arrived from England, andthe majority of these were Purl-tans. The great Puritan mlgra-tion started in 1630,when elevenvessels brought 900 persons toMassachusetts bay, and it keptup for a number of years. Atvarious points in New England,as shown on the smaller mapon p age 1, settlements weremade, a majority of them ot!·shoots of the original Massachu-setts Bay colonies. For exam-ple, Roger Williams, expelledfro m Massachusetts, foundedthe Rhode Island colony, andThomas Hooker went from Mas-sachusetts to set up a colony inConnecticut. Thus it was thatpeople spread over New Eng·land from the shores of Massa.chusets.

The Puritans of the newworld, like the Separatists whohad preceded them to America'sshores, had little patience withthose who did not agree with

their religious views. They werehard and cruel to those whobroke their strict laws. Igno-rant in the main and supersti-tious to a marked degree, theirstern antagonism to the devilwas manifested dramatically inthe notorious Salem witchcraftcases of 1692. Even their mostlearned leader, Cotton Mather,believed in witches.

• • •The people of 17th century

Massachusetts we r e for themost part of the same socialand economic level as the orig-inal settlers of Plymouth. Smallfarmers, laborers, and appren-tices, they were sturdy and stol-id, but withal unprogressive. Butthey were God-fearing and, withfew e x c e p t ion s, Iaw-abtding.Massachusetts never had seenthe necessity of importing eon-viets and slaves to do its work,as was the case in Virginia.

So to this day there has sur-vived a finely drawn Intersee-tional animosity between de-scendants of the first families ofVirginia and those of the firstfamilies of Massachusetts. Thefirst named charge that Massa-chusetts was settled by stupidfarmers and servant girls, whileMassachusetts answers that Vir-ginia was settled by convicts,debtors, women of the gutter,and slaves.