Post on 31-Mar-2015
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Today Objectives
• What is a seam?
• What is a seam allowance?
• What is a seam finish?
• How do we decide which seam finish we should use?
• What kinds of seams do our clothes have?
• Learn about nine different seam finishes
What is a seam?
Line of stitching. Hold two pieces of fabric together.Basic part of garment construction.Secured by backstitching.
What is a Seam Allowance?
Flap of fabric allowed to sew a seam.5/8” is most common for clothing patterns.
What is a Seam Finish?
Finish applied to raw edge of seam allowance.
Prevents fraying, curling and strengthens fabric.
The type of finish you choose for your seams depends on:
Type of fabricHow neat you want your seams to look DurabilityTimeType of sewing machine
Plain Seam
DescriptionOne line of sewing at 5/8” seam allowance
Suitable forDelicate items
AdvantagesVery easy to make
DisadvantagesNot as strong as other stitches
Straight Stitch Seam Finish
DescriptionThis is a plain seam with an extra line of stitching
Suitable forThe straight stitch can be used as a seam finish on firmly woven fabrics which ravel slightly.
AdvantagesIt is effective in preventing the seam allowances in knits from curling.
Disadvantages
Does not look as neat as other methods.
Pinked Edge Seam Finish
•DescriptionThe raw edges of the seam allowance are trimmed with pinking shears.
•Suitable ForMost fabrics except those very prone to raveling.
•AdvantagesFast and easy. Doesn’t add bulk to the seam allowance.
•DisadvantagesDoesn’t look as neat and clean as other methods. May not keep fabrics from fraying, especially if the finished item will be laundered. Requires special scissors to make.
Zig Zag Seam Finish
DescriptionA zigzag stitch is sewn close to or over the
raw edge of the seam allowance.
Suitable ForMost fabrics
AdvantagesEffective at keeping the raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance.
DisadvantagesDoesn’t look as neat and clean as some other methods.
Clean-Finish Seam Finish
DescriptionThe edges of the seam allowance are turned under and stitched.
Suitable ForLight to medium weight fabrics.
AdvantagesMakes a neat, clean finish that won’t ravel.
DisadvantagesAdds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for heavier fabrics.
Narrow Seam Finish Description
The narrow seam finish is often used to control the curling seam allowances of knit fabrics. It also reduces the size of the seam allowance, making it more comfortable to wear.
Suitable for
Children clothing, or any fabric that needs extra strength.
AdvantagesThe narrow seam can be used anywhere on a garment, but it is especially useful where extra strength is needed.
DisadvantagesMay add bulk to the fabric.
Flat Felled Seam Finish
DescriptionThe raw edge of the seam allowance is encased, then topstitched on the outside.
Suitable for:Most fabrics. Items that need durable seams.
AdvantagesMakes a neat, clean finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely encased. Makes a very sturdy seam.
DisadvantagesRequires precise pressing and sewing. Somewhat time consuming. Makes a topstitched seam on the outside you may not want.
French Seam Finish Description
The raw edge of the seam allowance is enclosed in a secondary seam.
Suitable For Light weight fabrics and fabrics that are prone to raveling. Ideal for items that will have visible seams.
Advantages -very neat, clean finish. -Raw edges will not ravel because completely encased.
Disadvantages - Adds bulk ,making it unsuitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics. -A little complicated to make. -Somewhat time consuming.- Requires precise sewing.
Serged Seam Finish
DescriptionA line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the seam allowance.
Suitable For Most fabrics
Advantages Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray resistant. Adds little
bulk to the seam allowance. Quick and easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in one step.
DisadvantagesYou need a serger machine to make the stitch.
Summary
What is a seam, seam allowance, seam finish?
Deciding on Seam finishType of fabricHow neat you want your seams to look DurabilityTimeType of sewing machine
Nine Types of Seam Finishes
1.Plain Seam
2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish
3.Pinked Edge Seam Finish
4.Zig Zag Seam Finish
5.Clean-Finish Seam Finish
6.Narrow Seam Finish
7.Flat Felled Seam Finish
8.French Seam Finish
9.Serged Seam Finish