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THEDANISHNATIONALRESEARCHFOUNDATION’SCENTREFORTEXTILERESEARCH

ANNUALREPORT2014

In2014CTR2focusedonresearchinthetworesearchprogrammes,TextileEconomiesintheMediterraneanArea(TEMA)locatedintheUniversityofCopenhagen,andTextileCraftsandCultures(TECC)primarilylocatedattheNationalMuseumofDenmark.TheprimarystaffofCTRin2014consistedofdirectorMarie‐LouiseNosch,twentyresearchers:UllaMannering,EvaAnderssonStrand,KarinMargaritaFrei,MaryHarlow(UK),HedvigLandenius‐Enegren(SE),EllenHarlizius‐Klück(DE),BeritHildebrandt(DE),MiguelÁngelAndrés‐Toledo(ES),MatteoVigo(IT),MalgorzataSiennicka‐Rahmstorf(PL),JoanneCutler(UK),PaulaHohti(FI),SalvatoreGaspa(IT),RominaLaurito(IT),FlaviaCarraro(IT/FR),GiovanniFanfani(IT/SE),CarolineSauvage(FR/USA),SusanneLervad(DK),UllaLundHansen(DK)andLoneGebauerThomsen(DK).AdministratorMetteBruunandcoordinatorsLailaGlienkeandEgzonaHaxhawerePA’sforNosch.ResearchassistantwasPederFlemestad,editorialassistantCherineMunkholtandlaboratoryassistantCristinaOlsen.FivePhDscholars(LuiseØrstedBrandt,ViviLenaAndersen,CharlotteRimstad,KarolinaHutkovaandCecilieBrøns)andotherscholarswereemployed/affiliatedfor1‐12months(LenaBjerregaard(DE/DK),LorenzRahmstorf(DE),RichardFirth(UK),CécileMichel(FR),MagdalenaOhrmann(SE),IdaDemant(DK),andSolveigHansen(DK)).Studenthelpersin2014wereSidselFrisch,CamillaEbert,CamillaToftSørensen,UlrikkaMokdad,JulieBjørgRaith,StineMarieBøttern,LineLerke,LouiseLudvigsen,PhilipDonsandZiffJonker.GabrielaLongitano(IT),LauraMazzaglia(IT),LenaErdnüss(DE),ArielRosenblum(US)andMimTosting(SE)wereinterns.VisitingPhDscholarswereChristopherBritsch(AU),ChristophKremer(DE),LouiseQuillien(FR),KaamyaSharma(IN),MiaoSU(CN),andMAstudentRulinYang(CN).IntheNationalMuseumofDenmarktheconservatorsIreneSkalsandAnneLisbethSchmidtalsoparticipatedinCTR’sresearch,asdidnumerouscollaboratorsfromEurope,USA,Canada,Israel,India,Jordan,China,AustraliaandRussia.Sincetextileresearchisprimarilyconductedbyfemalescholars,CTRhasactivelysoughttorecruitmalescholarsaspostdocsortoinvitemalecolleaguesasvisitingscholars.In2014theCTRstaffgenderbalancefemale:maleis:researchers14:4,PhDstudents5:0andstudenthelpers9:1.In2014CTRwassubjecttoitsfinalinternationalevaluationbythreeinternationalexpertswhoallgaveCTRthehighestpossiblegrade:excellent.Otherimportantresearchactivitieswerethefinaleditingofseveralbooks,conferenceproceedingsaswellasmonographsandpapers.CTRarranged19internationalconferences,seminarsandworkshopsin2014,andCTRscholarsgave133lecturesatinternationalconferencesin17countries.CTRstaffalsogave24interviewsindifferentDanishelectronicmedia,contributedtoarticlesinDanishandforeignnewspapers,andmade42outreachpresentations.In2014,CTRstaffandcollaboratorspublished19papersinjournals,11papersinanthologies,13papersinconferenceproceedings,106bookchapters,38othertypesofpublicationsand7books.Thetotalpublicationproductivity2005‐2014inCTR:Totalnumberofpublications: 2005‐2014 Peerreviewed Non‐peerreviewedNumberofjournalarticles 115 98 17Numberofconferenceseries 75 67 8Numberofbooks 35 32 3Numberofbookchapters 394 385 9Researchreportsonwebsite 39 39 0Others 149 43 106

                                                             Number of articles in conference proceedings This number includes monographs and anthologies edited by CTR

  

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TEXTILEECONOMIESINTHEMEDITERRANEANAREA(TEMA)(2010‐2016)STAFFHistorianMarie‐LouiseNosch,archaeologistEvaAnderssonStrand,archaeologistHedvigLandeniusEnegren,philologistGiovanniFanfani,archaeologistCecilieBrøns,terminologistSusanneLervad,Indo‐EuropeanphilologistMiguelÁngelAndrés‐Toledo,hittitologistMatteoVigo,archaeologistandhistorianBeritHildebrandt,archaeologistMalgozataSiennicka,assyriologistSalvatoreGaspa,philologistPederFlemestad,archaeologistJoanneCutler(UCL),archaeologistRominaLaurito,anthropologistFlaviaCarraro,archaeologistCarolineSauvage.VisitingPhDscholarsChristopherBritsch(Wien)andChristophKremer(Bochum),visitingMAstudentsGabrielaLongitanoandLauraMazzalia(Catania).SCIENTIFICFOCUSAREASIN2014TheTEMAgroup’saimwaspartlytoconductindividualresearchprojects,suchaspostdoctoralandPhDprojects,andpartlytocompletejointprojects.OfparticularnoteisthattheTEMAteamin2014wasofteninvitedasagrouptogivelecturestogether,forexampleinBerlin,Athens,andtheUSA.ImportantTEMAacademicactivitiesincludein2014: WegaveinspringaseriesofjointorindividualeveninglecturesintheDanishInstituteinAthensonrelevantTEMAresearchprojectsintheMediterranean(NoschandCutler;SiennickaandSarri;Brøns;HildebrandtandPapadopoulou).TheDanishInstituteatAthensinvitedandco‐sponsoredtheevents,andthelecturesattractedalargeaudience. TheBA/MAcoursegivenattheUniversityofCopenhagen,“WomenintheAncientWorld(3rdto1stmillenniaBCE)”wasorganizedbyGaspaandAnderssonStrandincollaborationwithSusanneKerner,NearEasternArchaeology.TheTEMAteamcontributedwithindividuallecturesfromtheirspecializedfields(Vigo,Hildebrandt,Cutler,Siennicka,LandeniusEnegren,Fanfani,Gaspa,Hildebrandt,Andrés‐Toledo).Inaddition,VigoandAndres‐ToledotaughtfullcoursesonHittiteGrammarandonAvestanandPahlavimanuscriptsrespectively. TheTEMAgrouporganized,hostedandgavelecturesattheinternationalconferenceTextileTerminologiesfromOrienttotheMediterraneanandEurope,1000BCto1000AD,with45speakersfrom11Europeancountries,Israel,EgyptandChina.TheconferencewasorganizedasanESOFsatelliteeventbyNoschandGaspafromCTRandCécileMichel(CNRS),andwillbepublishedbythisteam.FromtheTEMAgroupGaspa,Nosch,Flemestad,Lervad,Andres‐ToledoandHildebrandtgavepapersontheirfieldsofexpertise. TheTEMAgroupwasinvitedinFebruarytoFreieuniversitätBerlintogivelecturesaboutourresearchintheExcellenzcluster264,TOPOI,Workshop,FibreDistinctionhttp://www.topoi.org/event/22905/.NoschgaveakeynotespeechandotherCTRlectureswerepresentedbySiennicka,Kremer,BritschandØrstedBrandt. AttheCTRUSlecturetour,theTEMAteamlecturedindividuallyinmanyUSinstitutionsandalsoasateamin3whole‐dayseminarsatYale,HunterCollegeNY,andLoyolaMarymountUniversityLosAngeles. CollaborationswithCNRS:VigoandGaspafromCTRreceivedadditionalfundingfromtheDNRFtospendresearchtimeatCNRSandgatherinformationonHittiteandneo‐Assyriantextileterminology,respectively.TheywerehostedbyCécileMichel.Inreturn,PhDstudentLouiseQuillienfromCNRSspentresearchtimeatCTRinthesummer.InJuly,AnderssonStrand,MichelandCatherineBreniquet(UniversitéClermont‐Ferrand2)conductedjointfieldworkatKültepe,CentralAnatoliabasedonthestudyoftextileandbasketimprintsonclayartefacts(bullae)fromtheEarlyandMiddleBronzeAgelevels.Thisyeartherecordingspermittedtheidentificationofnewspinningandweavingtechniques,andincertaincases,theidentificationofthefibrematerialused.ThesystematicstudyofimprintsclearlydemonstratesthattextileproductionduringtheEarlyBronzeAgewasalreadywelldeveloped.TheresultswillbepresentedattheEuropeanArchaeologistsAssociation(EAA)conferencein2015,andatthe2ndKültepeInternationalMeetingalsoin2015,andpublished. PhDstudentCecilieBrønssubmittedherPhD,GodsandGarments.TextilesinGreeksanctuariesinthe7thtothe1stcenturyBC.Thethesiswascompletedinexactly3yearsanditwasdefendedsuccessfullyon13thFebruary2015.ItisacceptedforpublicationasamonographintheAncientTextilesSeries,OxbowBooks,Oxford. Finaleditingandpublicationof3importantanthologieswhereTEMAmembers’researchresultsarepresented:

CécileMichelandCatherineBreniquet(eds),WoolEconomyintheAncientNearEastandtheAegean:FromtheBeginningsofSheepHusbandrytoInstitutionalTextileIndustry.AncientTextilesSeries17,2014,OxbowBooks,Oxford.

MaryHarlow,CécileMichelandMarie‐LouiseNosch(eds),Prehistoric,AncientNearEasternandAegeanTextilesandDress:aninterdisciplinaryanthology.AncientTextilesSeries18,2014,OxbowBooks,Oxford.

MaryHarlowandMarie‐LouiseNosch(eds),GreekandRomanTextilesandDress:aninterdisciplinaryanthology.AncientTextilesSeries19,2014,OxbowBooks,Oxford.

  

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FIRSTTEXTILES(2014‐2016)The new collaborative research project First Textiles focusing on Neolithic and Early Bronze Age textileproduction is directed by Siennicka. In September 2014 she convened a session “Textiles in a social context.Textile production in Europe and the Mediterranean in the 4th and 3rd millennia BCE” in the EuropeanArchaeologists’ Association (EAA) meeting in Istanbul.The session explored the social context and culturalaspectsoftextilemanufacturebypresentingnewresearchontextilesinvariousareasofEuropeandtheEasternMediterranean,basedonarchaeological,ethnographical, textual, iconographic,andexperimentalevidence.Themeetingcomprisedeighteenoralandthreeposterpresentations.Altogether,25authorsfrom14countrieswereinvolved with papers covering a large number of themes and approaches displaying the many, as yetunderstudied, topicsofprehistoric textileproduction.The sessionachieved itsmaingoalofbringing togethertextileresearchersworkingondifferentregionstodiscussthesocialcontextofthisfundamentalcraft.

TEXTILECRAFTSANDCULTURES(TECC)(2010‐2016)STAFFArchaeologistUllaMannering,geochemistandarchaeologistKarinMargaritaFrei,archaeologistEvaAnderssonStrand,conservatorIreneSkals,conservatorAnne‐LisbethSchmidt,photographerRobertoFortuna,archaeologistIdaDemant,archaeologistLoneGebauerThomsen,labassistantCristinaOlsen,PhDstudent,archaeologistLuiseØrstedBrandt,PhDstudent,archaeologistCharlotteRimstad,PhDstudent,archaeologistViviLenaAndersenandintern,MAstudentArielRosemblum(US).Prof.EmeritaUllaLundHansenandarchaeologistLeneB.Frandsen(VardeMuseum)alsoparticipatedinthescientificwork.MargaritaGlebafromtheMcDonaldInstituteforArchaeologicalResearch,UniversityofCambridgeandBodilHolstfromUniversityofBergenwerelinkedtotheTECCresearchprogramme.CollaborationwithProf.KristianKristiansen,UniversityofGothenburgandtheresearchersemployedintheERCresearchprogrammeTheRise.Travels,transmissionsandtransformationsintemperatenorthernEuropeduringthe3rdand2ndmillenniumBC:theriseofBronzeAgesocieties.SCIENTIFICFOCUSAREASIN2014In2014,thefocuswasonthedisseminationofresearchresultsandcontinuedworkontheBronzeAgetextilecollections,withsampling,documentationandanalysisoftextilesattheNationalMuseumofDenmark.TheworkofimprovingandinterpretingthefibreanalysisofDanishBronzeandEarlyIronAgewoolcontinued. Thecollaborativeworkresultedinpaperssuchasonearticleaboutspeciesidentificationpublishedintheopen‐accessjournalPlosOneandonearticleaboutthemethodologyofmakingwoolfibremeasurementsinArchaeologicalTextilesReview.AlsointheLønneHedeTextileProject,LundHansen,Frandsen,DemantandSkalscontinuedworkonthemanuscripttobepublishedin2016. MembersoftheTECCgroupconductedthreefullMAcoursesinarchaeologyattheUniversityofCopenhagenandgavemanydifferentlectures. TheTECCteamhostedtheSecondColourWorkshopatCTRwithparticipationofapproximately25researchersandstudentsfromScandinavia,Finland,EuropeandUSA. The4thOctober2014thetemporaryexhibition“Fur‐AnIssueofLifeandDeath”openedattheNationalMuseumofDenmark.ManneringandSchmidthaveparticipatedintheconceptdevelopment,constructionandtextwritingofthislargeexhibition.ThecoreideaandscientificcontentofthisexhibitionhasitsoriginintheTECCandtheNorthernWorldsresearchprogrammes. InSeptember2014thethreeoakcoffinsfromBorumEshøj,exhibitedinRoom8intheDanishPrehistoryattheNationalMuseumofDenmarkweresenttoMoesgårdMuseuminÅrhusonafive‐yearloan.ThroughouttheyearUllaManneringparticipatedintheplanningandrearrangingoftheexhibitioninRoom8,whichwillincludetheexhibitionofmanymoreBronzeAgetextilesandinformationgatheredintheTECCprogramme. LuiseØrstedBrandtsubmittedherPhDSpeciesidentificationofskinsanddevelopmentofsheepwool.Aninterdisciplinarystudycombiningtextilesresearch,archaeology,andbiomolecularmethodswhichwasdefendedsuccessfullyon13thMarch2015.COSTUMES,CLOTHING,CONSUMPTION,ANDCULTURE=EARLYMODERNTEXTILES(2013‐2014)PaulaHohtidirectedthecollaborativeresearchprojectonearlymoderntextilecultureswithspecialemphasisonScandinaviabasedonherMarieCurieresearchproject,GlobalEncounters:Fashion,CultureandForeignTradeinScandinavia,1500‐1630.Theresearchareaembracedawiderangeoftopicsfocusingonearlymodernglobaltextileandclothingtrade,aswellasmethodologicalissuesinresearchindressandfashionhistory.

  

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Thecentralquestionsexploredincluded: Inwhatwayscanweusearchaeologicalfindstolearnaboutthecirculationofforeignfabricsand

clothinginDenmarkandthedevelopmentofinternationalfashionsinScandinaviainthesixteenthandseventeenthcenturies?

WhateconomicandculturalimplicationsdidtheintercontinentaltradeofsilksandcottonshaveonEuropeanculturesandsocietiesinthepre‐industrialera?

WhatroledidtextilesplayintheDanishcolonizationofIndia,andasobjectsofglobalconsumptionandmaterialcultureinseventeenth‐andeighteenth‐centuryDanishsociety?

InwhatwaysdidIndiantextilesinfluenceDanishconsumptionpatternsintheeighteenthcentury? HowdidBritishrulechangetheexistingfashioninIndiaintheearlytwentiethcentury?

ThesequestionswereexploredtogetherwiththefivePhDstudentsworkingatoraffiliatedtoCTR(RimstadandAndersenatCTR,HutkovainWarwickUniversity,GuptainGlasgowUniversity,andMartensintheEuropeanUniversityinFlorence),aswellaswithalargenetworkofacademicsandmuseumcuratorsworkingonrelatedtopics.Duringtheproject,severalmeetingswereorganizedwherethePhDstudentspresentedtheirresearchanddiscusseditwithseniorscholars.TheprojectinvolvedseveralworkshopsandconferencesincludingaworkshoponGlobalTextilesandLuxuryinNovember2013andaworkshoponTheMaterialityofTextilesandClothinginMay2014.Afinalconference,TheGlobalTradeofTextilesandClothingintheEarlyModernPeriod:Exchange,MeaningandMaterialitieswasorganizedattheGlobalHistoryandCultureCentre,UniversityofWarwickinNovember2014incollaborationwithHutkovaandProf.GiorgioRiello.Hohti’sblogonhowtoconducttextileresearchinCopenhagenhasnowmorethan9000followers:http://earlymodernscandinavianfashion.wordpress.com/.ThefinalpublicationfromtheEU‐project,FashioningtheEarlyModern:CreativityandInnovationinEurope(1500‐1800)calledFashionableEncounters.PerspectivesandTrendsinTextilesandDressintheEarlyModernNordicWorldeditedbyToveEngelhardtMathiassen,Nosch,Ringgaard,KirstenToftegaardandMikkelVenborgPedersenwaspublishedintheAncientTextilesSeriesin2014.

OTHERCTRRESEARCHPROJECTSESOF2014INCOPENHAGENInJuneCTRandFreiorganizedtwosessionsoftheEuropeanScienceOpenForuminCopenhagen:Culturalheritageinaworldperspective(GreenEconomy)withthekeyspeakersProf.RobertFrei,UniversityofCopenhagen,Prof.LotteHedeager,UniversityofOslo,Prof.JaneEvans,BritishGeologicalSurvey(UK)andSeniorResearcherJetteArneborg,NationalMuseumofDenmarkandOldtextilesprovidenewknowledge(MaterialandVirtualWorld)withthekeyspeakersProfZhaoFeng,CNSM(CN),SeniorResearcherDominiqueCardon,CNRS(FR),Prof.KristianKristiansen,UniversityofGothenburgandFrei.ThesessionsexposedCTRresearchtoacompletelynewanddifferentaudience.

CTRANDJORDANInMarch CTR organized aworkshopTraditionalTextileCraft –an IntangibleCulturalHeritage at the JordanMuseumAmmanincollaborationwiththeJordanMuseumandtheUniversityofLeicester(UK).Theworkshopgathered60participants fromeightEUcountriesandUSA, Jordan, Japan, India, IsraelandQatar representingtextile craft organisations, modern textile designers, textile craft technicians, UNESCO, and the academicdisciplines of archaeology, anthropology, history and philology. The aim was to create an interactive,internationalandinterdisciplinarynetworkandplatformforknowledgeexchangewhichallowwiderangingandinnovativeapproachesinthisareaandtomaketheimportanceoftextilecraftsandtextilehistoriesmorevisiblewithaclearrecognitionoftheinter‐relationshipsamongtextiles,textilecrafts,peopleandculturalheritage.Theworkshop resulted in several new project proposals, among them an EU‐project Weaving Creativity incollaborationwithscholars, craftorganizations, textile craftspeopleand textile fashiondesigners fromseveralcountries. The blog created for the workshop http://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/ has had over 55.000visitorsandwillcontinuetopublishnewinformation.Allpresentationsduringtheworkshoparepresentedon‐lineandcurrentlyane‐publicationisbeingprepared.

CTRANDCHINASince2009,CTRhashadanintensivecollaborationwithDirector,Prof.ZhaoFengfromtheChinaNationalSilkMuseum(CNSM)andDonghuaUniversity,Shanghai.In2014thiscollaborationincludededitingandpublicationoftheanthologyGlobalTextileEncounters(AncientTextilesSeries20)editedbyNosch,ZhaoandLotikaVaradarajanfromtheNationalMuseuminNewDelhi,India.ThebookwillalsobepublishedinChinesein2015byDonghuaUniversityPress.Itisnownominatedforaninternationalbookawardandpresentedatinternationalbookfairs.

  

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TwoChinesePhDandMAstudentsMiaoSUandRulinYangstayedonemonthatCTRandtheNationalMuseumofDenmarkin2014.InJunetheTECCgrouparrangedaworkshopandpubliclecturesattheNationalMuseumofDenmarkwithparticipationofKristianKristiansen(SE),DominiqueCardon(FR),ZhaoFeng(CN),LiWenyingandYdrilisiAbuduresulefromtheInstituteofArchaeologyinXinjiang,China.InAugust,Mannering,FreiandSkalsvisitedUrumqitostudythetextilesfromtheSmallRiverCemeteryandothertextilefindsfromtheChineseXinjiangprovince.DuringthevisitthepossibilitiestoobtainsomeofthesetextilesforasmalltemporaryexhibitionattheNationalMuseumofDenmarkin2017werediscussed,buttheplanswerelaterabandonedduetothecosts.

CTRANDUSANovember9th‐24thCTRwentonalectureandresearchtourtouniversitiesandmuseumsontheeastandwestcoastoftheUSA.JointorindividualtalksweregivenandexhibitionsandtextilecollectionsvisitedinBoston(Harvard,BostonMuseumofFineArts),NewHaven(YaleandBeinickeRareBookandManuscriptLibrary),NewYork(HunterCollege,MetropolitanMuseum,AntonioRattiCenter,BardGraduateCenter),Washington(TextileMuseum,DumbartonOaks),Philadelphia(TempleUniversity,PennMuseum),Poughkeepsie(VassarCollege),BrownUniversity,PrincetonUniversity,ColumbiaUniversity,ISAW,WisconsinGreenBayUniversity,andLosAngeles(TheJ.PaulGettyMuseum,LoyolaMarymountUniversity).ThetourexpandedournetworksintheUSAandenabledustoseetextilecollectionswhicharenotondisplay.TheCTRUSAtourteamcomprised:Nosch,Andrés‐Toledo,ØrstedBrandt,Brøns,Carraro,Cutler,Fanfani,Hohti,Sauvage,AnderssonStrand,Lervad,Papadopoulou,Rahmsdorf,andour2Chinesecollaborators,WangLefromDonghuaUniversity,andXuZheng,ChinaNationalSilkMuseum,andfianallyMichaelaGoffrepresentingourpublisherOxbowBooks’USoffice,sellingCTR’sbooksduringthetour.

MARIECURIEMASTERCLASS2014Since2011CTRhashostedanannualinternationalmasterclassaimingtoattractyoungEuropeanscholarstoCTRandtheUniversityofCopenhagen.ThemodelisnowcopiedinDanishandforeignuniversities.Thisyear’smasterclasswasarrangedbyNosch,AnderssonStrandandFanfani,andwasattendedbytencandidatesfromGermany,Greece,Israel,UKandItaly.Tosupporttheirapplications,theyreceivedexpertguidanceontheapplicationprocessfromuniversitystaffandEUconsultants,andwerecloselymonitoredbyCTRstaff,withone‐to‐onementoringandpeerreviewsessionswithexpertsintheirfields.TenapplicationsforMarieCuriemobilitygrantsweresubmitted,allcandidateswererankedoverthethreshold,andfourscholarswererecipientsoffundingfromHorizon2020andtheywilljoinCTRin2015‐2017.RESEARCHINTEGRITYCTRdiscussedthisthoroughlyandpublisheditsownsetofguidance:http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/aboutCONCLUSIONCTR’smajormilestonesandachievementsfor2014were:

1. ExcellentinternationalevaluationsofCTR,withthegradeEXCELLENTbythethreereviewers;2. PublicationofsignificantbooksgroupingCTR’sresearchresultsanddisseminatingknowledgeoftextile

researchtoacademicandnon‐academiccommunities;3. LargenewinitiativeofresearchersandcraftswomeninJordansupportedbyUNESCOandtheNational

MuseuminAmman;4. WelcomingthreenewMarieCurieFellows(2014‐2016)withfocusontextilearchaeologyandonthe

anthropologyoftextileknowledge,craftsandacademictextileresearch;5. SuccessfulUSAlectureandstudytourbyCTRstaffmembers,expandingourprofessionalnetworks.

Vedunderskriftenbekræftesdet,atberetningogregnskabmedtilhørendenoterogoversigterindeholderallerelevanteoplysninger,somvedrøreråretsprimæreaktiviteteriDanmarksGrundforskningsfondsCenterforTekstilforskningMarch2015Marie‐LouiseB.Nosch,Director