A Natural Silicone Alternative: Floramac® 10
Presented by: Tiffany N. Oliphant, M.S. and Robert A. Harper, Ph.D.
For the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase
December 11-12, 2017New York, NY
Contact: [email protected]
www.floratech.com
Floratech Proprietary & Confidential © Copyright 2017 International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights Reserved
© Copyright 2017, International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights Reserved
A Natural Silicone Alternative: Floramac® 10Tiffany N. Oliphant, M.S., C.C.R.C. (Floratech, Chandler, AZ) and
Robert A. Harper Ph.D. (Harper & Associates, La Jolla, CA)
SKIN CARE BENEFITS: HAIR CARE BENEFITS:
0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80%
Percent Barrier Recovery Relative to Baseline (24 hours)
Vehicle + 0.5% bisabolol
Vehicle + 1% LC HJE
Vehicle + 0.2% HC HJE
Vehicle
Untreated 26%
57%
77%
73%
33%
Increased Radiance and HydrationSimilar Consumer PerceptionSKIN CARE BENEFITS:
ABSTRACT: Objective - The objective of these studies was to demonstrate Floramac 10 (INCI: Ethyl Macadamiate) as a natural silicone alternative for skin and hair care products. Methods - In a series of double-blind, randomized, IRB-approved clinical studies, consumers (n=27) evaluated Floramac 10 versus Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicones of various viscosities for the following product and skin-feel characteristics: gloss, texture, absorbency, spreadability, wetness, moisturization, stickiness, silkiness/smoothness, and slipperiness. The same ingredients were also evaluated using bioinstrumentation for skin radiance (i.e. gloss) and hydration (n=15). Additionally, Floramac 10 was evaluated versus Cyclopentasiloxane and Phenyl Trimethicone for the following hair care characteristics: comb force, breakage, shine, heat protection and consumer preference. Results - Floramac 10 provided a similar skin-feel to that of the silicones as perceived by consumers, and increased skin radiance and moisturization when evaluated using bioinstrumentation. Floramac 10 also decreased wet / dry comb force and breakage, and increased shine and consumer perception of hair better than silicones. Conclusion - Floramac 10 is a viable natural silicone alternative.
Each silicone / silicone replacement pair (as listed in Table 1), was compared by consumers (n=27) in a blinded fashion on a 1-5 scale for initial product evaluations and skin feel (30 minutes post-application) observations. The higher the score, the more the listed attribute was perceived by consumers (e.g. a score of 5 for moisturization indicates very moisturized skin, whereas a score of 1 indicates dry skin). For the texture attribute, a higher score indicates a thicker silicone or silicone replacement. The results for each pair appear below in Figures 1-3.1
Figure 1. Floramac 10 vs. Cyclopentasiloxane
1
2
3
4
5
Texture
Absorbency
Spreadability
Wetness
Visual Transparency
Visual Gloss
**
1
2
3
4
5
Moisturization
Silky / Smooth Slipperiness
Stickiness
Gloss
**
**
**
Initial Skin - 30 Minutes
1
2
3
4
5
Texture
Absorbency
Spreadability
Wetness
Visual Transparency
Visual Gloss
**
**
**
**
1
2
3
4
5
Moisturization
Silky / Smooth Slipperiness
Stickiness
Gloss **
**
****
Initial Skin - 30 Minutes
1
2
3
4
5
Moisturization
Silky / Smooth Slipperiness
Stickiness
Gloss**
1
2
3
4
5
Texture**
Absorbency**
Spreadability**
Wetness**
Visual Transparency**
Visual Gloss**
Initial Skin - 30 Minutes
Test Emollient Viscosity (cP) Refractive Index
Floramac 10 7-8 1.44
Cyclopentasiloxane 4-5 1.40
Floramac 10+2 548-549 not transparent
Dimethicone (20cs) 19-20 1.40
Floramac 10+3 3205-3206 1.46
Phenyl Trimethicone 25-26 not transparent
Table 1. Physical Properties
Figure 1. Initially, there were few perceivable differences; however 30 minutes post-application, Floramac 10 left the skin perceivably more glossy, silky / smooth, and moisturized.
Figure 2. Initially, Dimethicone (20cs) was visually more glossy, more transparent, and thinner (texture). Thirty minutes post-application, the gelled Floramac 10+2 left the skin perceivably more glossy, silky / smooth, and moisturized.
Figure 3. Initially, Phenyl Trimethicone was visually more glossy, more transparent, wetter, more absorbent, and thinner (texture); however, there were few perceivable differences between the Floramac 10+3 and Phenyl Trimethicone 30 minutes post-application to the skin.
Each silicone / silicone replacement pair (as listed in Table 1) loaded at 5% in a simple o/w emulsion was compared for skin radiance (i.e. gloss) and hydration4 in a vehicle-controlled, randomized, double-blind clinical study (n=15). The results for each pair appear below in Figure 4.
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
Hydration(1 hour)
Radiance(30 minutes)
Perc
ent C
hang
e fro
m B
asel
ine
A
ABB
C
C
E
E
D
D
Figure 4. Skin Radiance and Hydration
Figure 4. The inclusion of Floramac 10 increased skin radiance and hydration (p<0.05) more than each respective silicone.
REFERENCES:1. p<0.05 (**) and p<0.10 (*) where indicated.2. Gelled with 0.5% Silica (Cabot).3. Gelled with 5.0% Glyceryl Tribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate (Nisshin Oillio); 2.0% Aluminum Starch
Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate (AkzoNobel Chemicals); and 5.0% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate (Elementis Specialties).
4. Skin radiance (i.e. gloss) and hydration measurements were captured using the Glossymeter GL 200 and Corneometer CM 825, respectively; both instruments are products of Courage+Khazaka (Köln, Germany).
Figure 2. Floramac 10+ vs. Dimethicone (20cs)2
Figure 3. Floramac 10+ + vs. Phenyl Trimethicone3
CyclopentasiloxaneFloramac 10
3
Phenyl TrimethiconeFloramac 10+
Dimethicone (20cs)
Floramac 10+2
E - Vehicle + Floramac 10+
D - Vehicle + Dimethicone (20cs)
C - Vehicle + Floramac 10
B - Vehicle + Cyclopentasiloxane
A - Vehicle
2
Support provided by International Flora Technologies, Ltd.
A Natural Silicone Alternative: Floramac® 10Tiffany N. Oliphant, M.S., C.C.R.C. (Floratech, Chandler, AZ) and
Robert A. Harper Ph.D. (Harper & Associates, La Jolla, CA)
SKIN CARE BENEFITS: HAIR CARE BENEFITS:Decreased Comb Force Heat Protection
HAIR CARE BENEFITS:
Leave-in hair serums containing either Floramac 10, Cyclopentasiloxane, or Phenyl Trimethicone, were applied to wet, double-bleached, naturally curly hair tresses. Wet and dry comb force measurements were taken at baseline and post-treatment. The results appear below in Figure 5.
Figure 5. Floramac 10 reduced wet comb force up to 45% more than the leave-in hair serums with silicones (p>0.05 compared to Phenyl Trimethicone); and reduced dry comb force up to 2.6 times as much as the leave-in hair serums with silicones (p<0.05 compared to both silicones).
Naturally straight, brown hair tresses were treated with leave-in hair serums containing Floramac 10, Cyclopentasiloxane, or Phenyl Trimethicone. Hair gloss measurements were taken before and after hair serum treatment, with heat (i.e. flat iron) and without heat. The results appear below in Figure 6.
Figure 6. Floramac 10 increased hair shine up to 2 times more than silicones without the use of heat (p>0.05 compared to Cyclopentasiloxane) and up to 1.7 times more than silicones with the use of heat (p<0.05 compared to both silicones).
Leave-in hair serums containing either Floramac 10, Cyclopentasiloxane, or Phenyl Trimethicone were applied to wet, double-bleached, naturally curly hair tresses, which were then blow dried and combed 1000 times. The broken fibers were collected and counted. The results appear below in Figure 7.
Figure 7. The leave-in hair serum containing Floramac 10 reduced the number of broken hair fibers up to 39% better than the leave-in hair serum containing Cyclopentasiloxane, and up to 57% better than the leave-in hair serum containing Phenyl Trimethicone (p<0.05).
Leave-in hair serums containing either Floramac 10, Cyclopentasiloxane, or Phenyl Trimethicone were applied to wet, double-bleached, naturally curly hair tresses, which were then blow dried, flat ironed (100 passes), and combed 1000 times. The broken fibers were collected and counted. The results appear below in Figure 8.
Figure 8. The leave-in hair serum containing Floramac 10 performed similarly to the silicones, Cyclopentasiloxane and Phenyl Trimethicone, and 76% better than untreated hair (p<0.05).
Leave-in hair serums containing either Floramac 10 or Phenyl Trimethicone were compared by consumers (n=24) in a half head, randomized, double-blind fashion after one week of every other day product use. The results appear below in Figure 9.1
Figure 9. At least 80% of consumers preferred the leave-in hair serum with Floramac 10 for smoothness, shine, softness, and ease of combing compared to the leave-in hair serum with Phenyl Trimethicone.
Figure 5. Comb Force Reduction
-60%
-40%
-20%
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
Dry Comb Force
Wet Comb Force
Perc
ent R
educ
tion
in C
omb
Forc
e
A
A
B
B
C
C
Figure 6. Hair Shine
-40%
-20%
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
With Heat
No Heat
Perc
ent C
hang
e in
Hai
r Shi
ne(r
elat
ive
to u
ntre
ated
hai
r) A
A
B
BC
C
{
{
Figure 7. Hair Breakage
Figure 8. Heat Protection
Figure 9. Consumer Preference
0 10 20 30 40 50 60# of broken hair �bers
A
C
B
# of broken hair �bers0 10 20 30 40 50 60
A
B
C
D
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
Ease of Combing*
Hair Strength*
Softness*
Silky
Shine**
Healthy Looking**
Smoothness**
Overall Product Performance
Increased Hair Shine
Decreased Breakage
Improved Consumer Preference
CONCLUSIONS• Floramac 10 is a viable natural silicone
alternative for both skin care and hair care applications.
• Floramac 10 provides skin hydration and radiance.
• Floramac 10 conditions and protects hair.
• Floramac 10 increases hair shine.
C - Phenyl Trimethicone
B - Cyclopentasiloxane
A - Floramac 10
C - Phenyl Trimethicone
B - Cyclopentasiloxane
A - Floramac 10
C - Phenyl Trimethicone
B - Cyclopentasiloxane
A - Floramac 10
C - Phenyl TrimethiconeB - CyclopentasiloxaneA - Floramac 10
D - Control (untreated)
Phenyl TrimethiconeFloramac 10
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