314

INDEX

Aaccessories, see Shopping

subindexaccommodation 248-64, see

also Sleeping subindex, individual neighbourhoodsapartments 251B&Bs 248costs 249gay & lesbian 260hostels 248hotels 248-9internet resources 248,

249, 251pensioni 248-9religious institutions 249rentals 251reservations 249-50

activities 242-6, see also Sports & Activities subindex

air travel airlines 283-4airports 284internet resources 284travel to/from airports

285Alemanno, Gianni 32, 41, 42ambulance 291Ammaniti, Niccolò 35Ancient Rome 62-72, 64-5

accommodation 249-50drinking & nightlife

216-17

food 194-5walking tour 156-7, 156

antiques, see Shopping subindex

apartments 251, 255Appian Way, see Via Appia

Anticaarchitecture 44-56

20th century 50-2ancient 44-6baroque 49-50contemporary 52-6early Christian 46-7fascist 50-2Renaissance 47-9rococo 50

area codes, see inside front cover

art galleries 56, see also Sights subindex

arts 32-40, 44-56, 234-40, see also Arts subindex, festivals

ATMs 294Auditorium Parco della

Musica 153, 86Augias, Corrado 31Aventino & Testaccio

118-21, 120accommodation 261drinking & nightlife 226-7food 208-9shopping 184

BB&Bs 248, see also Sleeping

subindexbabysitters 289bakeries, see Eating

subindexballet 39-40baroque period 49-50bars 216-32, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex

basilicas, see Sights subindex

basketball 243bathrooms 299-300beauty salons 246Belli, Gioacchino 33Benedict XVI, Pope 31, 88Berlusconi, Silvio 29, 42

Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 49-50, 103

bicycle travel, see cyclingBocca della Verità 71-2, 5Bolsena 273books 32-5, see also

literature, Shopping subindexhistory 30 set in Rome 34

Borgo, see Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

Borromini, Francesco 49-50, 103

Bramante, Donato 48, 131bridges, see Sights subindexbus travel 284-6

tours 295-6business hours 170-1,

190, 289Byron, Lord 98

CCaesar, Julius 78cafés, see Drinking &

Nightlife, Eating subindexesCalcata 269Caligula 28-9Campidoglio 70-1Campo de’ Fiori 81Capello, Fabio 242-3Capitoline Museums 70, 5Capodanno 18car travel 286-7Caraccio, Mariantonietta 206Caravaggio, Michelangelo

Merisi da 49, 149Carnevale 16, 91Carracci, Annibale 50Cassino 281Castel Gandolfo 279Castel Sant’Angelo 146-7Castelli Romani 279-80catacombs 122-3, 126-7,

see also Sights subindexCelio Hill & Lateran 114-17,

115 accommodation 261drinking & nightlife

224-6food 207shopping 184

cell phones 299

cemeteries, see Sights subindex

centri sociali 43, 226Centro Storico 73-93, 74-5

accommodation 250-3drinking & nightlife

217-20food 195-201shopping 171-7walking tour 157-9, 157

ceramics 186Cerveteri 269-70chemists 294children, travel with 102,

289Chirico, Giorgio de 51Christianity

art & architecture 46-7festivals 88-9history 25-7, 127saints 54

churches, see Sights subindex

Cicero, Marcus Tullius 32cinema 35-7, 237

festivals 16, 18, 86cinemas, see Arts subindexCivita di Bagnoregio 275climate 16, 290clothing, see also Shopping

subindexdiscount outlets 186sizes 173

clubs, see Drinking & Nightlife subindex

coffee 218Colosseum 62-3, 4consulates 291cooking courses 188, 290Coppedè 148, 155Cortona, Pietro da 50cosmetics 175Cosmophonies 17costs 18-19

accommodation 249 discount cards 291 food 194 tax rebates 175

Counter-Reformation 28courses 290

cooking 188, 290language 290

I N D E X

See also separate indexes for:Arts p317Drinking & Nightlife p317Eating p318GreenDex p323Shopping p319Sights p320Sleeping p321Sports & Activities p322 Top Picks p322

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INDEX mosaic-making 290wine tasting 290

credit cards 18, 295culture 3customs regulations 290cycling 245, 284

tours 296

Ddance 39-40, 236

festivals 17D’Annunzio, Gabriele 34day spas 245delicatessens 213department stores, see

Shopping subindexdisabilities, travellers with

300-1discount cards 291drinking 216-32, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods

drinks, see Shopping subindex

driving 286-7drugs 293drugstores 294

EEaster 16, 88, 85economy 3electricity 291Elefantino 76, 9embassies 291emergencies 291emperors, Roman 23Englaro, Eluana 26entertainment, see Arts,

Drinking & Nightlife subindexes

environmental issues 40equestrian events 244Esquilino, see Monti,

Esquilino & San Lorenzo Estate Romana 17etiquette 188, 302Etruscan civilisation 269-71

art 44EUR 128-9, 128exchange rates, see inside

front cover

Ffabrics, see Shopping

subindexFarnese dynasty 81

fascism 30-2 architecture 50-2

fashion 43, see also Shopping subindexfestivals 18

Fellini, Federico 37, 163-4, 164

Fendi 180Ferragosto 18Festa dei Santi Pietro e

Paolo 17Festa della Madonna della

Neve 18, 89Festa di Noantri 18Festa di San Giovanni 17Festa di Sant’Antonio 16Festival delle Letterature

17, 87Festival Internazionale del

Film di Roma 18Festival Internazionale di

Musica e Arte Sacra 18Festival Internazionale di

Villa Adriana 17festivals 16-18, 85-92, 234,

235, see also individual festivals

Fiesta! 91, 91Fiesta Club 17film 35-7, 237, see also Arts

subindexfestivals 16, 18, 86

fire services 291fitness 245-6, see

also Sports & Activities subindex

Flaminio 153-4Florence 275-8, 276Fontana, Domenico 49food 188-214, see also

Eating, Shopping subindexes, individual neighbourhoodsbusiness hours 190, 289cooking courses 188, 290costs 194etiquette 188gelato 193glossary 191history 190markets 212pasta 192self-catering 194tipping 188, see also

inside front covervegan 194vegetarian 194

football 242-3, 92stores 173, 184

Foro Italico 153-4, 244forums 67-9, see also Sights

subindexFotografia 17fountains, see Sights

subindexFrascati 279Fuksas, Massimiliano 53

GGadda, Carlo Emilio 35galleries 56, see also Sights

subindexGarbatella 128gardens, see Sights

subindexGaribaldi, Giuseppe 135Garrone, Matteo 36gay travellers 291-2

accommodation 260drinking & nightlife 231festivals 18, 87-8, 91

Gay Village 18gelato 193Gianicolo, see Trastevere &

Gianicologifts, see Shopping

subindexgladiators 26glassware 183golf 244government 41-2Great Schism 25GreenDex 323Gregory the Great, Pope 25Grottaferrata 279guesthouses 262-3gyms 246

Hhairdressers 246health 293-4health spas 245historic centre, see Centro

Storicohistory 21-32

Ancient Rome 21-2books 30Christianity 25-7, 127food 190Renaissance 27-8Roman Empire 22-5

holidays 292homewares, see Shopping

subindexhorse riding 244

hospitals 293-4hostels 248, see also

Sleeping subindexhotels 248-9, see

also Sleeping subindex

IIl Vittoriano 71Imperial Forums 69inns 257, 261internet access 292-3internet resources 19-20,

300accommodation 248,

249, 251air travel 284

Invito alla Danza 17Isola Tiberina 84Isole Pontine 281-2itineraries 15, 61

Jjazz 38-9jewellery, see Shopping

subindexJewish Ghetto 83-4, 9Juvenal 33

KKeats, John 98, 119Keats-Shelley House 98

LLago di Bolsena 273landmarks, historic, see

Sights subindexlanguage 303-6, see

also inside front covercourses 290food glossary 191

Largo di Torre Argentina 77-8

Lateran, see Celio Hill & Lateran

Lateran Treaty 137Lazio region 266-82, 267leather goods, see Shop-

ping subindexleft luggage 284, 288legal matters 293Leone, Sergio 35lesbian travellers 291-2

accommodation 260drinking & nightlife 231festivals 18, 87-8, 91

lingerie 181

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literature 32-5, see also books, Shopping subindexfestivals 17, 87walking tour 166-7,

167live music, see Arts,

Drinking & Nightlife subindexes

Livy 21, 33

Mmagazines 295maps 293Maraini, Dacia 39Maratona di Roma 16marble goods 181Marinetti, Filippo Tommaso

50-1markets 212, see also

Eating, Shopping subindexes

massages 245mausoleums, see Sights

subindexmeasures, see inside front

covermedia 42-3medical services 293-4metric conversions,

see inside front covermetro 287Michelangelo 48, 145mobile phones 299Moncada, Valentina 52money 18, 19, 291, 294-5Monti, Esquilino & San

Lorenzo 105-13, 106-7accommodation 256-61drinking & nightlife

221-4food 204-7shopping 183-4

Morante, Elsa 34-5Moravia, Alberto 34-5Morricone, Ennio 39mosaics 45, 47

mosaic-making classes 290

Moschea di Roma 154-5Mostra delle Azalee 17motorcycle travel 286-7movies, see cinema, filmmuseums, see Sights

subindex

music 37-9, 234-6, see also Arts, Drinking & Nightlife, Shopping subindexesfestivals 17, 18

Mussolini, Benito 30-2, 51

NNatale di Roma 16, 90newspapers 43, 295Nicholas V, Pope 27nightlife 216-32, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoodsgay & lesbian 231summer 217

Nomentano 154Northern Rome, see Villa

Borghese & Northern Rome

notable streets, see Sights subindex

Oopera 38, 235-6Orvieto 273-5Ostia Antica 268-9osterie, see Eating subindexOstiense 127-8

Ppalaces, see palazziPalatino 63, 66-7, 5palazzi, see Sights

subindexPantheon 46, 73, 76, 3, 8papacy 25-7papal audiences 142parks, see Sights subindexPasolini, Pier Paolo 33, 37Pasquino 80pasta 192pensioni 248-9, see also

Sleeping subindexperfume, see Shopping

subindexPescarella, Cesare 34pharmacies 294photography 297

exhibitions 17Piano, Renzo 55Piazza Colonna 84Piazza del Campidoglio 70Piazza del Popolo 94Piazza del Quirinale 101-2Piazza della Repubblica 111

Piazza di Siena showjumping competition 244

Piazza di Spagna 95-8, 11Piazza Navona 78-81, 9Piazza Navona Christmas

Fair 18Piazza San Pietro 142, 6,

85, 88Piazza Venezia 71piazzas, see Sights subindexPietà 140, 7Pigneto 208, 224, 227pizzerias, see Eating

subindexplanning 20, 61police 291politics 41-2pollution 40Ponza 281-2postal services 297Prati, see Vatican City,

Borgo & PratiPrimo Maggio 17publishing 42pubs, see Drinking &

Nightlife subindex

QQuartiere Coppedè 155Quartiere Garbatella 128Quirinale, see Trevi,

Quirinale & Via Veneto

RRaphael 144religion, see Christianity religious institutions,

accommodation in 249, see also Sleeping subindex

relocations to Rome 297-8Remus 22Renaissance 27-8, 47-9responsible travel 20, 283,

see also GreenDexrestaurants, see Eating

subindexRock in Roma 17rococo architecture 50Roma Alta Moda 18Roma Incontro Il Mondo 17Roma Independent Film

Festival 16Roma Jazz Festival 18Romaeuropa 18Roman emperors 23Roman Empire 22-5, 24

Roman Forum 67-8, 4Rome Pride 18Romulus 22rugby union 243-4running 244-5

SSabaudia 280-1Sack of Rome 28saints 54Salario 154-5Salustri, Carlo Alberto 33-4San Lorenzo, see Monti,

Esquilino & San Lorenzo San Paolo 127-8sculpture 45Settimana della Cultura 16Shelley, Mary 98Shelley, Percy Bysshe

98, 119shoes, see Shopping

subindexshopping 170-86, see also

Shopping subindexbusiness hours 170-1tours 174

sights, see Sights subindex, individual neighbourhoods

Sistine Chapel 145-6, 6sleeping, see

accommodation, Sleeping subindex

soccer, see footballsocial centres 226, see

also Drinking & Nightlife subindex

Sordi, Alberto 188Southern Rome 122-9,

124-5drinking & nightlife

227-8food 209walking tour 160-1, 160

Spanish Steps 95, 98, 11spas 245spectator sport 242-4Sperlonga 280-1sports 3, 92, 242-6, see

also Sports & Activities subindex, individual sporting events

St Benedict 281St Paul 89St Peter 141, 89St Peter’s Basilica 137,

140-2, 2, 7, 90St Peter’s Square, see

Piazza San Pietro000 map pages000 photographs

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INDEX Stadio Flaminio 244Stadio Olimpico 243, 92Subiaco 281supermarkets 194sustainable travel 20, 283,

see also GreenDexswimming 245-6Swiss Guards 137, 7

TTacitus 33Tarquinia 270-1taxes 175, 298-9taxis 287-8telephone services 299temples, see Sights

subindextennis 244Testaccio, see Aventino &

Testacciotheatre 39-40, 238-9

festivals 17theft 298time 299Time Elevator 99-100tipping 188, see also inside

front coverTivoli 278-9toilets 299-300Totti, Francesco 244tourist information 300tours 295-7, see also

walking toursbus 295-6 cycling 296 shopping 174

toys, see Shopping subindex

train travel 288trams 284-6transport 283-8Trastevere & Gianicolo

130-6, 132-3accommodation 261-3drinking & nightlife

229-30food 209-11shopping 184-5walking tour 158-9,

158Trevi Fountain 99, 10Trevi, Quirinale & Via

Veneto 99-104, 100accommodation 255-6drinking & nightlife 221food 203-4shopping 182-3

Tridente 94-8, 96-7accommodation 253-5drinking & nightlife 220-1food 201-3shopping 177-82

TV 37, 42

Vvacations 292Vatican City, Borgo & Prati

137-47, 138-9accommodation 263-4drinking & nightlife 230food 211-14shopping 185-6walking tour 159-60,

159Vatican Museums 142-6,

see also Sights subindexvegetarian & vegan travel-

lers 194, see also Eating subindex

Ventotene 281-2vestal virgins 69Via Appia Antica 122-3,

126-7Via Crucis 88Via dei Coronari Mostra-

Mercato 18Via dell’Orso Craft Fair 18Via Veneto, see Trevi,

Quirinale & Via Veneto Villa Borghese 149, 12Villa Borghese & Northern

Rome 148-55, 150-1accommodation 264drinking & nightlife

231-2food 214shopping 186walking tour 161, 161

Villa Celimontana Jazz 17villas, see Sights subindexvintage clothing, see Shop-

ping subindexVirgil 21, 32-3visas 301visual arts 44-56Viterbo 271-2

Wwalking tours

Ancient Rome 156-7, 156Aventino & Testaccio

164-5, 165baroque Rome 162-3, 163

Centro Storico 157-8, 157Fellini’s Rome 163-4, 164 literary Rome 166-7, 167 romantic Rome 165-6,

166Southern Rome 160-1,

160Trastevere & Gianicolo

158-9, 158Vatican City, Borgo &

Prati 159-60, 159Villa Borghese & Northern

Rome 161-2, 161weather 16, 290websites, see internet

resourcesweights, see inside front

coverwi-fi 293wine 219, 260

courses 290wine bars, see Drinking

& Nightlife, Eating subindexes

women travellers 301-2work 302

Zzoos 149

ARTSDANCETeatro dell’Opera di Roma

236Teatro Olimpico 236

FILMAlcazar 237Casa del Cinema 237Cinema dei Piccoli 149Isola del Cinema 237Metropolitan 237Notti di Cinema a Piazza

Vittorio 237Nuovo Cinema Aquila 237Nuovo Sacher 237Warner Village Moderno

237-8

MUSICAccademia di Santa Cecilia

234-5Auditorium Conciliazione 235Auditorium Parco della

Musica 235, 86

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti 235-6

OPERATeatro dell’Opera di Roma

236Teatro Ghione 236Teatro Olimpico 236

THEATREAnfiteatro del Tasso 238English Theatre of Rome 238Silvano Toti Globe Theatre

238Teatro Ambra Jovinelli 238Teatro Argentina 238Teatro dell’Orologio 238Teatro India 238Teatro Palladium 238-9Teatro Quirino 239Teatro Sistina 239Teatro Valle 239Teatro Vascello 239

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFEBARSArco degli Aurunci 223Bar della Pace 218Bar le Cinque 229Bar San Calisto 229Bartaruga 220Big Star 229Bohemien 222Caffè Fandango 217Chioschetto di Ponte

Milvio 231Chiringuito 231Circus 217Coming Out 224Crudo 218Doney H Club 221Doppiozeroo 227-8Etablì 218Femme 219Freni e Frizioni 229Gladiatori Hotel Terrace

Bar 225Ice Club 222Il Baretto 230Il Seme e la Foglia 226Les Affiches 218L’Oasi della Birra 226Ombre Rosse 230Salotto 42 217

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Société Lutèce 219Solea Club 223Stravinkij Bar – Hotel de

Russie 220

CAFÉSArco degli Aurunci 223Caffè Capitolino 216-17Caffè Farnese 219-20Caffè Greco 221Caffè Sant’Eustachio 219Canova Tadolini 221Castroni 230Ciampini 220Ciampini 2 221Gran Caffè la Caffettiera 219La Bottega del Caffè 222La Tazza d’Oro 217-18Libreria del Cinema 230Linari 226Moma 221Oppio Caffè 217Rosati 221

CLUBSAkab 226Alpheus 228Caffè Letterario 228Conte Staccio 226Dimmidisí 223Distillerie Clandestine 228Esc Atelier Occupato 223Galleria dei Serpenti 222Goa 228Hangar 223La Maison 219La Saponeria 228L’Alibi 226Lian Club 223Max’s Bar 223Piper Club 231Qube 231-2Rashomon 228Rising Love 228Skyline 225

LIVE MUSICAlexanderplatz 230, 87Big Mama 229Charity Café 222Fonclea 230Gregory’s 221La Casa del Jazz 228

Lettere Caffè Gallery 229Locanda Atlantide 223-4Makasar 230Micca Club 224

PUBSDruid’s Den 223Fiddler’s Elbow 223Finnegans 223Miscellanea 218Trinity College 218

SOCIAL CENTRESBrancaleone 232Rialtosantambrogio 220Villaggio Globale 226-7

WINE BARSAi Tre Scalini 222Al Vino Al Vino 222Cavour 313 217Il Goccetto 220Il Melograno 228Il Pentagrappolo 225-6La Barrique 222-3La Meschita 230L’Angolo Divino 220Passaguai 230Taverna del Campo 220Vineria Reggio 220

EATINGAFRICANAfrica 205

BAKERIESAntico Forno Roscioli 199Bocca di Dama 207Boccione 200Ciuri Ciuri 204Dolce Maniera 214Il Gianfornaio 214La Dolceroma 200Valzani 211

CAFÉSChiostro del Bramante

Caffè 197-8Gina 203

CHINESEGreen T 196

DELICATESSENSFranchi 213

FUSIONRed 214

INDIANIl Guru 204Indian Fast Food 205Jaipur 210Shanti 213

JAPANESEDoozo 205Sushiko 207

MARKETSCampo de’ Fiori 212Nuovo Mercato Esquilino

212Piazza dell’ Unità 212Piazza San Cosimato 212Testaccio 212

MOZZARELLA BARSObikà 196

OSTERIEIl Bocconcino 207-8Osteria ar Galletto 198Osteria della Frezza 202Osteria Qui Se Magna! 208Osteria Sostegno 195

PANINIAntico Forno 203Lo Zozzone 197

PIZZERIASBir & Fud 210Da Francesco 197Da Michele 203Da Ricci 205-6Dar Poeta 211Formula Uno 207Forno di Campo de’ Fiori 199Forno la Renella 211‘Gusto 202Hostaria-Pizzeria Giacomelli

213La Focaccia 197La Gallina Bianca 205Open Colonna 205Pallotta 214Panattoni 210Panella l’Arte del Pane 205Pizza Florida 196

Pizzarium 213Pizzeria al Leoncino 201Pizzeria da Baffetto 198Pizzeria Ivo 211Pizzeria la Montecarlo 198Pizzeria Remo 208Pizzeria Amalfi 213Sisini 210Volpetti alla Scrofa 198Zazá 196

RISTORANTIAgata e Romeo 204Antichi Sapori 208Campana 197Checchino dal 1887 208Colline Emiliane 204Dal Bolognese 201Glass Hostaria 210‘Gusto 202Il Bacaro 195Il Palazzetto 202La Buca di Ripetta 201La Cantina di Ninco Nanco

195La Carbonara 204La Gensola 209La Piazzetta 194-5La Veranda de l’Hotel

Columbus 212L’Altro Mastai 196Le Mani in Pasta 209Osteria dell’Ingegno 200Paris 210Piperno 199Primo 208Ristorante Cecilia Metella

209Said 207San Teodoro 194Santopadre 204Sora Lella 200Vecchia Roma 199Zigaetana 213

SEAFOODAl Presidente 203La Rosetta 195Le Tamerici 203Riccioli Café 196

TAVOLA CALDAVolpetti Più 209

TRATTORIASAlfredo e Ada 197Alle Fratte di Trastevere 210

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INDEX Armando al Pantheon 196Cacio e Pepe 213Da Augusto 211Da Enzo 209, 210Da Felice 208Da Francesco 197Da Giggetto 200Da Lucia 211Da Olindo 211Da Tonino 197Dal Toscano 212Dino & Tony 212Ditirambo 198Edy 201Fiaschetteria Beltramme

202Filetti di Baccalà 199Gino 200-1Grappolo d’Oro 198Hostaria Zampagna 209La Botticella 210-11La Taverna degli Amici

199-200Lilli 197Maccheroni 195Matricianella 200Nanà Vini e Cucina 203Osteria dell’Angelo 213Osteria Margutta 202Otello alla Concordia 202Pommidoro 207Renato e Luisa 198Ristorante l’Arcangelo 212Sergio alla Grotte 199Sora Margherita 200Taverna dei Quaranta 207Tram Tram 206-7Trattoria da Bucatino 208Trattoria Monti 204-5Trattoria Priscilla 209

VEGETARIANBabette 201Margutta Ristorante 201Osteria dell’Ingegno 200

VIETNAMESEThien Kim 199

WINE BARSAntica Enoteca 203Buccone 202Casa Bleve 196Cul de Sac 197Del Frate 212Enoteca Corsi 196

Palatium 202-3Trimani 205Vineria Chianti 203Vineria Roscioli Salumeria

198

SHOPPING ACCESSORIESAlberta Gloves 171Borsalino 177Fatta Fabbrica Italiana

(FFI) 179Francesco Biasia 179Furla 179Ibiz – Artigianato in Cuoio

176La Cravatta su Misura

184-5Misty Beethoven 183Mondello Ottica 176Moresco Ottica 177Sermoneta 179Vignano 182

ANTIQUESAlinari 177Animalier e Oltre 177Casali 174Comics Bazar 174Lumieres 185Nardecchia 174

BOOKSAlinari 177Almost Corner Bookshop

185Anglo-American Bookshop

179Bibli 185Bookàbar 183Feltrinelli 171Feltrinelli International

183Herder Buchhandlung 171Il Mare 178Librairie Française de

Rome 174Libreria Babele 174Libreria del Viaggiatore

176Libreria Giunti al Punto 182Libreria L’Argonauta 186Libreria Sorgente 174Lion Bookshop 179Mel Bookstore 183-4

CERAMICSLorenza Ambrosetti 186

CLOTHINGAngelo di Nepi 186Arsenale 175As Roma Store 173Brioni 182Dadada 176-7Davide Cenci 171Dolce & Gabbana 179Ethic 177Fendi 179Gallo 180Gianni Versace 180Just Cavalli 180Laura Biagiotti 180Luna & l’Altra 175Maxmara 181-2Missoni 182Moschino 182Original Fans Lazio 184Prada 180Salvatore Ferragamo 180Scala Quattorodici 185Tartarughe 171, 173Temporary Love 185Valentino 180-1

COSMETICSAi Monasteri 175Casamaria 175Officina Profumo Farma-

ceutica di Santa Maria Novella 175

DEPARTMENT STORESLa Rinascente 182MAS 183TAD 178Tebro 181

EMBROIDERYLe Tele di Carlotta 175

FABRICSocietà Abbigliamento

Rappresentanze Tessuti (SART ) 175

FOOD & DRINKCastroni 185Confetteria Moriondo &

Gariglio 173

Enoteca al Parlamento 179Focacci 181Fratelli Fabbi 181Gusto Italia 183La Bottega del Cioccolato

183Suzuganaru 184Teichner 178Volpetti 184

GIFTSAldo Fefè 175Officina della Carta 185

GLASSWAREI Vetri di Passagrilli 183

HOMEWARESArtemide 178De Sanctis 173Flos 178Lavori Artigiani Romani

(LAR) 178Leone Limentani 177Maurizio Grossi 178Retro 175-6Spazio Sette 173

JEWELLERYBulgari 181Fabio Piccioni 183La Grande Officina 184Tempi Moderni 176

LEATHERArtigiani Pellettieri –

Marco Pelle/di Clemente 181

Claudio Sanò 184

LINGERIEBrighenti 181La Perla 181

MARBLEBottega di Marmoraro 181

MARKETSBorgo Parioli Market 186Mercato delle Stampe 178Ponte Milvio 186Porta Portese 185Underground 182-3Via Sannio 184

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MUSICGoody Music 186Messaggerie Musicali 178Soul Food 184

PERFUMEL’Olfattorio 178-9Roma-Store 185

SHOESAVC by Adriana v Cam-

panile 181Borini 177Calzature Boccanera 184Crepida 173Fausto Santini 181Loco 177Mada 181Posto Italiano 177Sciù Scià 173Tod’s 179

SHOPPING CENTRESGalleria Alberto Sordi 182

TOYSAl Sogno 176Bartolucci 173Bertè 176Città del Sole 176

VINTAGE CLOTHINGLe Gallinelle 183Omero & Cecilia 176Vestiti Usati Cinzia 176

SIGHTS BASILICAS & CHURCHESBasilica dei Santi Apostoli

100Basilica di San Clemente 116Basilica di San Giovanni in

Laterano 116-17Basilica di San Lorenzo in

Damaso 82Basilica di San Lorenzo

Fuori le Mura 113Basilica di San Marco 71

Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura 127

Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli 110

Basilica di San Sebastiano 123

Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere 130-1

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore 105-8, 2

Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere 131

Basilica di Santa Sabina 118Basilica di Sant’Agnese

Fuori le Mura 154Basilica di SS Cosma e

Damiano 69Carcere Mamertino 69Chiesa del Domine Quo

Vadis? 126-7Chiesa del Gesù 78Chiesa della Trinità dei

Monti 98Chiesa di San Bartolomeo

84Chiesa di San Carlo alle

Quattro Fontane Vittoria 102

Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi a Ripa 131

Chiesa di San Giorgio in Velabro 72

Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei Fiorentini 82

Chiesa di San Gregorio Magno 114

Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Lucina 93

Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi 80-1

Chiesa di San Martino ai Monti 110

Chiesa di San Nicola in Carcere 84

Chiesa di San Paolo Entro le Mura 112

Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio 135

Chiesa di San Saba 119Chiesa di Santa Croce in

Gerusalemme 111Chiesa di Santa Lucia in

Selci 110Chiesa di Santa Maria in

Aracoeli 70-1Chiesa di Santa Maria in

Cosmedin 71-2

Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli 112

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo 94-5

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Concezione 104

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pace & Chiostro del Bramante 79

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria 103

Chiesa di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva 77

Chiesa di Santa Prassede 109

Chiesa di Santa Pudenziana 108

Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone 79

Chiesa di Sant’Agostino 81Chiesa di Sant’Andrea al

Quirinale 102Chiesa di Sant’Andrea della

Valle 82-3Chiesa di Sant’Eligio degli

Orefici 82Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio 111Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio di

Loyola 84, 93Chiesa di Sant’Ivo alla

Sapienza 80Chiesa di Santo Stefano

Rotondo 116Chiesa di SS Giovanni e

Paolo 114, 116Chiesa di SS Nereus e

Achilleus 126Chiesa di SS Quattro

Coronati 116Chiesa Dio Padre

Misericordioso 113Chiesa Nuova 80Chiesa Santi Pietro e Paolo

128Sancta Sanctorum 117Sistine Chapel 145-6, 6 St Peter’s Basilica 137,

140-2, 2, 7, 90

BRIDGESPonte Milvio 153Ponte Sant’Angelo 147

CATACOMBSCatacombe di Priscilla 154Catacombe di San

Callisto 126

Catacombe di San Sebastiano 123

Catacombe di Santa Domitilla 126

CEMETERIESCapuchin cemetery 104Cimitero Acattolico per Gli

Stranieri 119Cimitero di Campo Verano

113

FORUMSForum Boarium 71-2Imperial Forums 69Roman Forum 67-8, 4

FOUNTAINSFontana dei Quattro

Fiumi 79Fontana del Moro 79Fontana del Nettuno 79Fontana dell’Acqua Paola

135-6Fontana delle Tartarughe 83Trevi Fountain 99, 10

HISTORIC LANDMARKSArea Archeologica del

Teatro di Marcello e del Portico d’Ottavia 83-4

Arco di Costantino 63Castel Sant’Angelo 146-7Circo Massimo 67Colosseum 62-3, 4Complesso Monumentale

Santo Spirito in Saxia 146Domus Aurea 110Monte Testaccio 119, 121Palatino 63, 66-7, 5Pantheon 46, 73, 76, 3, 8Piramide di Caio Cestio 119Porta Maggiore 111Porta Pia 154Porta San Sebastiano 127Porta Settimiana 134Spanish Steps 95, 98, 11Terme di Caracalla 119Trevi Fountain 99, 10Tusculum 279

MAUSOLEUMSMausoleo delle Fosse

Ardeatine 126Mausoleo di Augusto 95

000 map pages000 photographs

321

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INDEX Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella

123Mausoleo di Romolo 123Mausoleo di Santa

Costanza 154Necropoli di Banditaccia

269-70

MUSEUMS & GALLERIESAula Ottagona 112Capitoline Museums 70, 5Capitoline Museums at Cen-

trale Montemartini 128Casa di Goethe 98Explora – Museo dei

Bambini di Roma 153Gagosian Gallery 104Galleria Colonna 101Galleria Nazionale d’Arte

Antica – Palazzo Barberini 103-4, 10

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica di Palazzo Corsini 135

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna 152

MACRO 155MACRO Future 121MAXXI 153Musei di Villa Torlonia 154Museo Astronomico &

Planetario 129Museo Barracco di Scultura

Antica 82Museo Carlo Bilotti 152Museo Centrale del

Risorgimento 71Museo Criminologico 82Museo d’Arte Contempo-

ranea di Roma (MACRO) 155

Museo dei Fori Imperiali 69Museo del Palazzo Venezia

71Museo della Civiltà Romana

& Planetario 129Museo dell’Ara Pacis 95, 8Museo delle Arti e

Tradizioni Popolari 129Museo delle Cere 100-1Museo di Roma 80Museo di Roma in

Trastevere 134Museo e Galleria Borghese

148-9, 12Museo Ebraico di Roma 83

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale 109

Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo (MAXXI) 153

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia 152-3

Museo Nazionale Romano: Crypta Balbi 78

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Altemps 79

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 111-12

Museo Nazionale Romano: Terme di Diocleziano 112

Museo Storico Artistico 141Museo Storico della

Liberazione 111Museo Storico Nazionale

dell’Arte Sanitaria 146National Museum of 21st-

Century Art 153Palazzo e Galleria Doria

Pamphilj 93Pastificio Cerere 113Vatican Museums 142-6

PALAZZIPalazzo Cenci 83Palazzo Chigi 84Palazzo del Quirinale 102Palazzo della Cancelleria 82Palazzo della Civiltà del

Lavoro 128-9Palazzo delle Esposizioni

112-13Palazzo di Montecitorio 84Palazzo e Galleria Doria

Pamphilj 93Palazzo Farnese 81Palazzo Laterano &

Battistero 117Palazzo Madama 80Palazzo Pamphilj 79Palazzo Spada 82Palazzo Venezia 71

PARKS & GARDENSOrto Botanico 135Parco Savello 118-19Pincio Hill Gardens 95Vatican Gardens 146Villa Ada 155Villa Borghese 149

Villa Celimontana 116Villa Torlonia 154

PIAZZASPiazza Barberini 103Piazza Colonna 84Piazza dei Cavalieri di

Malta 119Piazza del Campidoglio 70Piazza del Popolo 94Piazza del Quirinale 101-2Piazza della Repubblica 111Piazza di Spagna 95-8, 11Piazza Navona 78-81, 9Piazza San Pietro 142, 6,

85, 88Piazza Santa Maria in

Trastevere 131Piazza Venezia 71Piazza Vittorio Emanuele

II 110-11

STREETSVia Appia Antica 122-3,

126-7Via dei Condotti 98Via dei Coronari 79Via del Governo

Vecchio 80Via Giulia 82Via Margutta 98Via Vittorio Veneto 104

TEMPLESTempietto di Bramante 135Tempio di Adriano 84Tempio di Ercole

Vincitore 72Tempio di Portunus 72

THERMAL SPRINGSTerme dei Papi 272

VATICAN MUSEUMSGalleria degli Arazzi 144Galleria dei Candelabri 144Galleria delle Carte

Geografiche 144Museo Chiaramonti 144Museo Gregoriano Egizio

143Museo Gregoriano Etrusco

144

Museo Gregoriano Profano 142-3

Museo Missionario-Etnologico 142-3

Museo Pio-Clementino 143Museo Pio-Cristiano 142-3Pinacoteca 143Sistine Chapel 145-6, 6Stanze di Raffaello 144-5Vatican Library 146

VILLASVilla Adriana 278Villa Borghese 149, 12Villa dei Quintili 123, 126Villa d’Este 278-9Villa di Massenzio 123Villa Doria Pamphilj 136Villa Farnesina 134-5Villa Medici 98Villa Torlonia 154

ZOOSBioparco 149

SLEEPING APARTMENTSResidence Vittoria 255

B&BS58 Le Real de Luxe 25766 Imperial Inn 257Arco del Lauro 262B&B 3 Coins 256Casa Banzo 252-3Domus Julia 256Fellini B&B 256Nicolas Inn 257

GUESTHOUSESBuonanotte Garibaldi 262La Foresteria Orsa Maggiore

262-3

HOSTELSAlessandro Downtown

Hostel 260Alessandro Palace Hostel

259-60Beehive, the 259Carlito’s Way 258Colors Hotel & Hostel 263Funny Palace 260Hostel Beautiful 260

322

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INDEX

Hotel & Hostel des Artistes 258

M&J Hostel 260Yellow, the 260

HOTELSAberdeen Hotel 261Albergo Abruzzi 250Albergo del Sole 253Bibi e Romeo’s Home 264Caesar House 250Casa Howard 255Casa Montani 264Colors Hotel & Hostel 263Daphne Inn 256Grand Hotel de la Minerve

250Grand Hotel Parco dei

Principi 264Gregoriana 255Hassler Villa Medici 254Hotel & Hostel des Artistes

258Hotel Antica Locanda 261Hotel Beautiful 260Hotel Bramante 263Hotel Britannia 257Hotel Campo de’ Fiori 252Hotel Castelfidardo 259Hotel Celio 261Hotel Cisterna 262Hotel Columbia 257Hotel Continentale 258Hotel de Russie 253Hotel d’Este 258Hotel Dolomiti 258Hotel Due Torri 251Hotel Eden 256Hotel Florida 263Hotel Forte 254Hotel Forum 250Hotel Giuggioli 263Hotel Giuliana 258Hotel Igea 258Hotel Lazzari 259Hotel Locarno 253-4Hotel Modigliani 256Hotel Mozart 255Hotel Navona 252Hotel Nerva 250

Hotel Oceania 261Hotel Portoghesi 252Hotel Raphaël 251Hotel San Pietrino 264Hotel Santa Mari 262Hotel Sant’Anselmo 261Hotel Scalinata di Spagna

255Hotel Smeraldo 253Hotel Sweet Home 258-9Hotel Teatro di Pompeo 252Hotel Trastevere 262Margutta 54 253Okapi Rooms 254Papa Germano 259Portrait Suites 254Radisson SAS 257Relais Group Palace 253Relais Palazzo Taverna 252Residenza Arco de’ Tolomei

262Residenza Cellini 260Residenza in Farnese 252Residenza Santa Maria 262Romae 258Suite Dreams 260-1Teatropace 33 251Villa della Fonte 262Villa Laetitia 263Welrome Hotel 259

INNSForus Inn 257Target Inn 261

PENSIONICrossing Condotti 255Hotel Cervia 259Hotel Ercoli 256Hotel Joli 264Hotel Lady 263Hotel Mimosa 251Pensione Panda 255Pensione Paradise 264

RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONSAlbergo Giusti 259Casa di Accoglienza Paolo

Vi 264

Casa di Santa Brigida 252

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES BASKETBALLbasketball 243

BEAUTY SALONSFemme Sistina 246Gamax 246

DAY SPASAcanto Benessere Day

Spa 245Acqua Madre Hammam

245Bann Thai 245Hotel de Russie Wellness

Zone 245

FOOTBALLStadio Olimpico 243, 92

GOLFCircolo del Golf Roma

Acquasanta 244

GYMSRoman Sport Center 246

HAIRDRESSERSElleffe 246

HORSE RIDINGCavalieri dell’Appia Antica

244Piazza di Siena showjump-

ing competition 244

RUGBY UNIONStadio Flaminio 244

RUNNINGItalia Marathon Club 245

SWIMMINGGrand Hotel Parco dei

Principi 246Piscina delle Rose 246Radisson SAS 246

TENNISForo Italico 244

TOP PICKS accommodation 247, 250Ancient Rome 62arts 233arts festivals 235books, history 30books on Rome 34Aventino & Testaccio 118Celio Hill & Lateran 114Centro Storico 73children’s attractions 101clubs 220drinking & nightlife 215eating 187, 194films, Rome 36free attractions 63markets 212Monti, Esquilino & San

Lorenzo 105Museo e Galleria Borghese

149museums & galleries 44, 111neighbourhoods 57pizza 201secrets 174shoes 182shopping 169, 171Southern Rome 122sports & activities 241Trastevere & Gianicolo 130Trevi, Quirinale & Via

Veneto 99Tridente 94Vatican City, Borgo &

Prati 137Vatican Museums 144views 71, 229, 253Villa Borghese & Northern

Rome 148wine bars 222

000 map pages000 photographs

INDEX GREENDEX

323

lonelyp

lanet.comGOING GREEN

The following sights, accommodation options, restaurants and courses have been selected because they meet our criteria for sustainable tourism. While many restaurants in Rome serve seasonal, locally sourced produce, we’ve highlighted those that choose to go that extra mile and are accredited by the Italian Slow Food movement. We’ve also included Rome’s colourful produce markets. Accommodation options make it if they show a real commitment to recycling or energy conservation, while attractions are listed if they are Unesco-listed World Heritage sites.

We want to keep developing our sustainable travel content, so if you think we’ve left someone or something out, contact us at www.lonelyplanet.com/feedback and set us straight for next time.

For more information about sustainable travel, check out our website at www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel.

EatingArmando Al Pantheon 196Campo de’ Fiori market

212Hostaria Zampagna 209Nuovo Mercato Esquilino

212

Osteria dell’Angelo 213Piazza dell’ Unità market

212Piazza San Cosimato

market 212Testaccio market 212Trattoria Priscilla 209

SightsBasilica di San Giovanni

in Laterano 116-17Basilica di San Paolo

Fuori le Mura 127Basilica di Santa Maria

Maggiore 105-8

catacombs 122-3, 126-7Centro Storico 73-93,

74-5Vatican City, Borgo &

Prati 137-47, 138-9Sleeping

Beehive, the 259

G R E E N D E X

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

324

Lookout

Mountain

National Park

Waterfall

Geographic

InformationBank, ATM

Embassy/ConsulateHospital, Medical

InformationInternet Facilities

Police StationPost Office, GPO

TelephoneToilets

Transport

Airport, Airfield

Bus Station

Sleeping

Sleeping

Camping

Shopping

Shopping

Arts

Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking

Café

Eating

Eating

Pool

Parking Area

Arts

Sports & Activities

Point of Interest

Point of Interest

Castle, FortressChristian

MonumentMuseum, Gallery

RuinZoo, Bird Sanctuary

Sights

SYMBOLS

CAPITAL (NATIONAL)Large City

Small City

CAPITAL (STATE)Medium CityTown, Village

POPULATION

BuildingLand

Campus ParkSportsUrban

Mall

ForestCemetery, Christian

AirportAREA FEATURES

Ancient WallRegional, Suburb

State, ProvincialInternational

BOUNDARIES

WaterRiver, CreekHYDROGRAPHY

TramCable Car, FunicularBus Route

MetroFerry

MonorailRail (Underground)

RailTRANSPORT

MAP LEGEND

Walking TourWalking Trail

One-Way Street

Tunnel

Unsealed RoadLane

TertiarySecondary

Walking PathTrack

FreewayPrimary

Pedestrian Overpass

ROUTES Mall/Steps

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983

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© Lonely Planet 2010Photographs © As listed (p307) 2010

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CHAT TO TRAVELLERS • GIVE US FEEDBACK • GET EXTRA DESTINATION INFORMATION • BOOK FLIGHTS, ACCOMMODATION AND EVERYTHING ELSE • PLAN TRIPS • GIVE ADVICE • LISTEN IN • FIND, BUY AND SELL THINGS • SHARE STORIES • MAKE A CONNECTION • AND MORE

SEE DIRECTORY CHAPTER FOR MORE PRACTICAL INFORMATION

QU I CK R E FE R E N CETRANSPORTPublic-transport tickets are valid on all bus, tram and metro lines, except for routes to Fiumicino airport. Children under 10 travel free.Single/Daily ticket €1/4

Ciampino Airport %06 6 59 51

Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) %06 6 59 51

Trenitalia (Italy’s main train operator) %89 20 21

TIPPINGBars small change (eg €0.10-0.20)

Hotel porters €3-5

Restaurants with service charge, €1 per person; with no service charge, 10% (5% in pizzerias)

PHRASESHello. Buongiorno.Goodbye. Arrivederci.Please. Per favore.Thank you. Grazie.How much is it? Quanto costa?Do you speak English? Parla inglese?

CONVERSIONS1in = 2.54cm1cm = 0.39in1m = 3.3ft = 1.1yd1ft = 0.3m1km = 0.62 miles1 mile = 1.6km

1kg = 2.2lb1lb = 0.45kg1g = 0.04oz1oz = 28g

1 imperial gallon = 4.55L1L = 0.26 US gallons1 US gallon = 3.8L1L = 0.22 imperial gallons

HOW TO USE THIS BOOKShopping, Eating, Drinking & Nightlife and Sleeping reviews are organised by neighbourhood.All items reviewed in the text appear on maps.

% telephoneh opening hoursp parking availablea air-con availablei internet availables swimming poolg busm metroj tram

apt apartmentsd double roomsdm dorm bedsq quad roomsr roomss single roomsste suitestr triple rooms

EXCHANGE RATESPrices in this book are quoted in euros (€). €1 = 100 cents.For current exchange rates see www.xe.com.Australia A$1 €0.59

Canada C$1 €0.63

Japan ¥100 €0.77

New Zealand NZ$1 €0.49

Switzerland Sfr1 €0.66

UK UK£1 €1.09

USA US$1 €0.69

BUSINESS HOURSBanks 8.30am-1.30pm & 2.45-4.30pm Mon- Fri, some open 8.30am-12.30pm Sat

Bars & cafés 7.30am-8pm

Restaurants noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm

Shops city centre stores 9am-7.30pm (or 9.30am- 8pm) Mon-Sat, smaller shops 9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm (or 4-8pm) Mon-Sat

Exceptions are noted in specific listings.

TELEPHONEAmbulance %118

Fire department %115

Police %113

Directory inquiries %892 412

International dialling code %00

City code %06

Country code %39

Rome Tourist Board %06 06 086TH EDITIONPublished Feb 2010First Published July 1999

USA $18.99 UK £12.99

rome-6-cover.indd 2rome-6-cover.indd 2 17/11/2009 8:25:46 AM17/11/2009 8:25:46 AM

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