### Woodworking - Jigs

7/31/2019 ### Woodworking - Jigs

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Box-Joint JigRouter template indexes cuts

by Patrick Warner

The box joint is being used less and less today and wonder, considering the setup complications, the

of holding workpieces vertically on table saws, the inhangups and the assembly problems. After studying mthe classical box-joint cutting methods and tools, I decidesign and build a template jig that could be used router. (For the table-saw method of making this joiFine Woodworking, Winter '76, page 34.)

I've made dozens of boxes and drawers and have that most don't measure more than 12 in. high and 36a side. Most stock used for small boxes is in. to in. tmade my jig to accommodate these dimensions wchanges in setup.

In designing the jig, I aimed for simplicity of opesafety, rapid setup and indexing, accuracy, precision, rability, and latitude in box sizes. I built it into a tablesplit to allow the stock to be held verticallythe jig is o

side of the split, the press screws are on the other (see below). The table is both portable and stable, and hasity drawer, my first box made with the jig.

The template, the heart of the jig, is made out ofnated phenolicit's smooth, slippery and strong. Theshould be no more than in. thick, to use up as little

vertical travel of the router as possible. I had mine milllocal machine shop, although I first squared up the stoc


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jointer and carbide saw. The slots, in. deep, were milledwith a -in. end mi ll , leaving pins in. wide on -in. cen-

ters. A milling machine will easily hold .001, and I suspect .0025 is tolerable. Job shop time should not exceed 30minutes, if the stock is presquared.

The template overhangs a pillow block, which is tenonedto an oak cross-member. Stops on either end of the templateindex the workpiece. When indexed on one end the yield is a

pin; the other end yields a socket. The workpiece is clampedverti cally against a piece of scab stock , and each side of thebox is cut separately. The router with its -in. outside-

diameter template guide and -in. bit traverses the tines ofthe template, as in dovetail-cutting jigs.

The scab stock backup board is especially important be-cause without it the router bit will tear out the back side ofthe panel. One scab board will usually accommodate the fourcorners of one box because it can be used turned upside-down

Patrick Warner, 35, of Escondido, Calif. , has been working inwood part-time for four years and hopes to be making furni-ture full-time within the next two.

and backwards. The scab board is located to guarantee try of at least half of the diameter of the bit, and is helagainst the template with standard spring plungers (avfor about $2 each from Vlier Engineering Corp., 2333 St., Burbank, Calif. 91505).

If the template has been cut well but the first joint dfit, the outside diameter of the template guide can be down. As a final measure, the router bit can be ground rect the error in the fit . The router bit should be a -ibide two-fluted straight-faced bit that needs sharpeninit doesn't fit you pay for sharpening only once.

To make the table frame for the jig, I used clear kilnfir: 2x8s yield three pieces about in. wide. I mortistenoned all frame members, which measure in. by in cross section. I mounted the working parts of the jigoak member for stiffness and dimensional stabilitytenoned the member into the table rails. The fourscrews that hold the work against the stock have customhandles so I could locate the nuts on -in. centers wthe handles interfering. Wetzler Clamp Co., 43-13 11Long Island City, N.Y. 11101 made mine for $7.50 eac

Make dimension A as best fits routerbase, at least times greater than

half the base diameter. Dimension B,and the number of pins, depend onthe size of the largest box desired.

Box-joint jig


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A Stop for Every JigSimple, versatile stops are crucialto accurate machining

by Sander Nagyszalanczy

Setting a crosscut is a breeze

with a flip-down stop. The cursor's

cross hairoftheT-track-mounted flip

stop lines up with the desired mea-

surement on a self-adhesive measur-

ing tape stuck on the fence.

Most things that we do in oureveryday lives have limits: themaximum speed you're sup-

posed to travel on the highway; the mini-mum age you must be to buy a bottle ofliquor; the most books you can check outof a library at one time. The world of

woodwor king is no different, except wecall the limits measurements. We strive tomaintain the exactness of measurementsto make parts fit more precisely together,

clean. Some measurements are setmachines, such as the depth of cutblesaw or handplane, and some mregulated by eye, as when chiselinto a pencil line. But we regulate many limitsmeasurements for theor width of parts, depth of groovholesby using stops on our jigsconjunction with our tools.

Regulating the distance between of a part and the point where it'


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stop devices. As with other types of jigsand shopmade setups, there are many dif-ferent kinds of stops to choose from, eachappropriate for a particular range of toolsand applications. The simplest stops aremerely wooden blocks, clamped orscrewed to the machine, jig or the work it-self. More ingenious stops revolve to ad-just or change position. The right stop can

increase the accuracy of an operation, aswell as save time when making repeat cutsbecause parts need not be marked indi-

vidually. This is why production shopscan't do without the use of stops.

Length stopsLength stops are used mostly for crosscut-ting or shaping across the width of stock,but they are easily adapted to work withother machines in a variety of applications.Length stops are commonly used on table-saws, radial-arm saws, sliding-compound-

miter saws and both powered miter sawsand nonpowered (handsaw) miter boxes.Length stops are also welcome additionsto fences used with miter gauges, drillpresses, mortising machines, sliding cross-cut boxes and other sliding carriage jigs.

While the stops described here are shop-built, there are several high-quality, com-mercially produced stop devices on themarket, such as the FastTrack stop systemcomponents including the micro-adjustingFastStop (available from Garrett Wade, l6l

Avenue of the Americas, New York, N.Y.10013; 800-221-2942). Also, the ProScale

digital readout (available from AccurateTechnologies, 11533 N.E. 118th St., Suite220, Kirkland, Wash. 98034; 800-233-0580)can be added to many of the shopmadestops described below.

Adjustable f lip-down stopsProbably the most useful kinds of stops forbasic crosscutting applications are ad-justable flip-down stops. A flip-down stopis more useful than a simple stop blockclamped to the fence because it quicklyflips out of the way when it's not needed.

This allows one end of the workpiece (aframe member or molding) to be squaredwith the stop flipped up. The part is thenrotated end for end, and the stop (set andlocked in the desired location) is flippeddown to cut the part to final length. Thetwo basic types of flip-down stops pre-sented are illustrated as applied to a radi-al-arm or other crosscutting saw; however,they can be used as adjustable length stopson many other machines as well.

Basic flip-down stopThe flip-downh i fi 1 ill k i h j

about any wood or metal crosscuttingfence, and the stop can be set to any mea-surement, limited only by the length of

the machine's fence. The channel-shapedbody of the stop should be about 6 in. to8 in. long and sized to fit not too snuglyover the fence. A threaded insert driven in-to the back of the channel takes a studdedhand knob, which locks the stop to thefence. The flip stop itself attaches to thechannel with a wraparound-style cabinethinge, located so the hinge barrel is be-hind the front face of the channel (see theend view in figure 1 above). This keeps theflip stop completely out of the way whenit's up. The edge of the channel face and

f h h f d k

sawdust from misaligning the wor

In use, the stock to be cut doesnly contact the machine's fence; o

bears against the face of the channthe other bears on a short block ththickness as the channel that is scrthe fence next to the blade (see

vie w in figure 1).This arrangement allows you to c

that's bowed and won't set stablythe straight fence. The block nblade also supports the workpiethe cut to prevent tearout. To use twith a stick-on measuring tape, otape's position, so the blade-to-stance can be set by aligning the en

h l h h d d


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Measuring miters is easy with

dedicated stop. This flip stop (le

has been fitted with a 45 block fo

mitered ends. The stop's cursor sh

the distance between the inside co

ner of the miter and the miter crea

ed when the member is cut.

Eccentric stop offers micro ad-

jus tments (below). Fine adjust-

ments can be made by rotating th

stop. The off-center hole makes the

position of the stop shift slightly,

and the screw locks it down.

Track-mountedflip-down stopAnoth-er flip-down stop, as shown in the photoon p. 67, rides on and locks to a track strip.

As shown in figure 2 on the facing page,this adjustable stop setup has four basicpieces: a track strip with measuring tape, asliding block, an L-shaped stop, and across hair and a cursor that allow very ac-curate settings. The solid-wood track striphas a T-slot routed in the top edge and anadhesive-backed, stick-on measuring tape

pressed on (see the top box on p. 71). Flat-head screws through slots routed in the

center of the T-slot mount the track to thetop of the tool's fence. These slots allowside-to-side adjustment for calibrating the

The sliding block has a short tongue thatloosely fits the T-slot. A vertical holethrough the center of the block mounts the

T-bolt and hand knob that lock the stop as-sembly to the track strip. Another holedrilled lengthwise through the blockmounts the flip stop via a carriage bolt witha nylon locknut (a steel nut with a nyloninsert that prevents the nut from turning).

The stop itself is cut from -in. good-quality plywood, such as Baltic or Finnish

birch, into an L-shape. A notch on the un-derside of the stop holds a clear plasticcursor, mounted with a small flat-headscrew through a countersunk hole (for in-structions on making a cursor, see the top

after the track strip has been instacalibrated. If you do a lot of dado change blades often, additional cro

can be added to the cursor to be uthose blades.

To adjust the stop for different-thsawblades, you can reposition thstrip, or remove the flip stop fromand add shims (I make these frminum beer cans with a leather as necessary. You can also make uent stop assemblies, each with amarked to work with different sawmolding heads or dado-blade thic

Multiple flip stopsBecause unu


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Rotating stop handles multiple

measurements. This rotating stop

allows you to choose one of four stop

positions. When used on a dril l-press

fence, as shown here, it can set dis-

tances between closely spaced holes.

and then flipped out of the way, several

flip stops can be set up along the length ofthe fence. This would be an advantage if,say, you had to cut all the face-frame com-ponents for an entire kitchen to length;stops could be set at all the standard mea-surements and flipped down wheneverneeded during cutout Because flip stopsare fairly easy to make, you may wish tomake a half-dozen or more at one time.Cut stock for the channels (simple ver-sion) or sliding blocks (T-track version) as

you would a length of molding; then sliceoff individual blocks.

Flip stop for mitered endsEither flipstop described above can be modified tohandle boards with mitered ends. If widepicture-frame molding is mitered and thewidth of a standard stop doesn't catch thetip of the miter, make the face of the stop

wider. Alternatively, when making pictureframes, it's sometimes desirable to mea-sure distances relative to the inside edgeof the frame molding. A shortened flip

stop with a 45 triangular block screwedon takes care of this situation, as shown infigure 3 on p. 69. A longer cursor must befitted and etched to register the positionthe inside edge of the molding butts up to,as shown in the top photo on p. 69.

Eccentric end stopSometimes you need to position a work-piece along a fence in a fixed position, butin a way that allows some fine-tuning. Asimple stop that provides a firm stop, yetprovides for a limited amount of adjust-

the bottom photo on p. 69.1 use these asend stops on the pivot arms of my router-plate joinery setup, and they are extreme-ly quick to make. First cut a short length ofdowel with a diameter that suits the appli-cation. For a small jig, a -in.-dia. dowel isabout right; for larger jigs, or to yield agreater amount of adjustability, use a 1-in.,1 -in. or larger diameter dowel. Now drill

a hole through the dowel lengthwise that'sequidistant between the center and edge.

mounts the stop to the jig. To madjustments to the stop's positionthe screw and rotate the dowel; thit in place. You can employ this saciple with even larger stops: Dricenter hole in a sawn-out plywoand screw it down where an adstop is needed.

Rotating stopSometimes you need to cut, rou

A hole is drilled through a plywood square;lines are marked for trimming piece, soeach edge is a different distance from hole.

Both side s of stop have fourindentations drilled with counterat same radius (R) from hole; thholes act as detents.


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Cursors and stick-on metalrules improve accuracy

Thin metal rules with a pressure-sensitive peel-and-stick backingprovide a convenient way to add an adjustment scale to any fenceor adjustable jig component. Scales are available that read bothright to left and left to right (available from Highland Hardware;

800-241-6748). Reading the position of the movable part can bedone by simply mounting the scale underneath the part or byadding a fine cross-hair cursor to the moving part.

To make a cursor, start with a piece of clear plastic. Make a testcut with the cursor installed on the jig to determine the crosshair's exact location. Then etch the cross hair on the down-fac-ing side of the plastic using a scratch awl and a try square (see thephoto at right). Color in the cross hair with a thin-point perma-nent marker pen, applied judiciously, to make it easier to see. If

you're using a stop fitted with a cursor on a radial-arm saw that us-es dado blades or sawblades of various thicknesses, you can etchadditional cross hairs on the cursor; position them so they willrepresent the location of the cuts produced by those blades.S.N.

Etched cursors are easy to make. A thin line etched wscratch awl onto a piece of clear plastic makes the cross

for a cursor that mounts to a flip stop used on a cutoff saw.manent marker on the etched line makes it easier to see.

Making a T-slot track

One of the handiest methods of joining jig parts that must adjustis to use a T-track and T-bolt fasteners. A T-track is a useful way tomount fences, stops, hold-down clamps or to attach auxiliary ta-bles and more. You can rout a T-slot into any solid wood, plywoodor medium-density-fiberboard (MDF) surface with a special T-slotbit (available from Woodhaven; 800-344-6657 or The Woodwork-ers' Store; 800-279-4441). The Woodhaven bit requires a -in.- or

-in.-dia. straight bit and cuts a T-slot best suited to -in.-dia.T-bolts or toilet bolts. The Woodworkers' Store T-slot bit needs a

-in.-or -in.-dia. groove and is best for -in.-dia. T-bolts.The T-track slot is cut in two passes. The first pass, with astraight bit, makes a plain groove as long as the desired tracklength. The second pass is taken with the special bit that cuts theT-slot at the bottom of the groove (see the drawing at right). Forapplications where a more durable slot is needed, The Wood-workers' Store offers a pressed-steel track that fits -in.-dia.T-bolts. The track, which comes in lengths of 40 in. and 60 in.,can be cut with a hacksaw and is designed to be epoxied into a

-in.-wide, -in.-deep slot.To attach parts or devices to a T-track, use T-bolts or T-slot nuts

that ride in the track. T-bolts are available in -in. and -in. sizesand a variety of lengths. Standard toilet bolts (found in hardwarestores) can also be used but not in all T-tracks. T-bolts may be se-

cured with a regular nut, wing nut or hand knob. Standardriage bolts can be used in T-tracks, but the depth of the T muincreased with the T-slot bit to clear the head. Carriage boltstake as much torque as T-bolts can without stripping the edgthe slot. T-slot nuts (available from Woodhaven) fit several dent screw-thread sizes, from 10-24 to in. These are secureing a machine screw, a bolt or a studded hand screw.

that are closely spaced but at a fixed dis-tance from the end of the workpiece. Ahandy device for this is the rotating endstop, such as the one shown in the photoon the facing page. This stop mounts easi-ly to any fence, carriage or table and canbe rotated and locked in any of four posi-tions. Each position provides a differentspacing between the end of the workpieceand the cutter or bit you are using.

Make the stop by laying out a piece of

different distance from a single hole. Startwith an oversized piece with a holemarked somewhere in the middle; thenuse a ruler and a square to mark how thepiece must be trimmed (an example isshown in figure 4 on the facing page). Astudded hand knob fits through the holeand into a threaded insert, which is driveninto the fence itself.

To allow the fence-mounted stop to clearthe jig's base when it is rotated (it's too big

off, as on the stop in the photo oning page. The position of the rotatcan be set manually, or detents cated to reference each position.

Sandor Nagyszalanczy builds cusniturein Santa Cruz, Calif., and tributing editor to Fine WoodwThis article was adapted from book,Woodshop Jigs and Fixtureis available from The Taunton Pre


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W all-moun ted panel routeris ideal for makingquickdadoes. Knowinghispanelrouterhad to savespace, Skip Lauderbaugh mounted it to a wallat a comfortable heightandangle.To build the jig, he used a router he owned and commercial hardware costing less than $100.

Compact Tool Makes Dadoes a SnaThis panel router folds flat against a walland is inexpensive to build

by Skip Lauderbaugh

Many of my cabinetmaking pro-jects require panels that have da-does, rabbets and grooves to

allow strong, easy assembly. I've tried lotsof ways of cutting these joints and havefound that a panel router is the quickestand most accurate tool to use. Unfortu-nately, the expense of one of the commer-cial machines (up to $3,500) and the floorspace it requires (up to 25 sq. ft.) is morethan I can justify. As is often the case, how-ever, once you have tasted using the prop-

else becomes a frustrating compromise.I had seen other shopmade panel routers

(for one example, see Steven Grever's arti-cle in FWW#88, p. 48), but they lackedfeatures I wanted and seemed complicat-ed. So I set out to design and build myown version of a panel router. By simpli-fying the guide system and by using com-mon materials and hardware (see thedrawing on p. 89), I built a panel router forless than $100 (not including the router,

which I already owned). And although this

and melamine, the jig folds coagainst the wall when it is not in u

Designing the panel routerBecause the guide rails used in ipanel routers often get in the way

were the first things I eliminated osign. The next thing was to orientchine so that gravity would help router into the work. Big panel rooriented horizontally, and they hcapacity to handle 36-in.-wide p


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inets and cases are usually less than 3 ft.wide, I scaled things down a bit, and I sit-uated the whole setup vertically. This ori-entation also saved considerable shopspace. Then I came up with a clamp-onrouter guidance system, so I don't have todo any measuring or marking on a panel.Finally, I devised a router subbase thateliminates depth-of-cut adjustments when

changing material thicknesses. To helpyou understand the abilities of this tooland how it is constructed, I've divided itinto six basic components:

1. The workpiece table2. The router guide system3. The fence with adjustable stop4. The upper and lower guide stops5. The router subbase6. The router tray

The workpiece tableA panel router re-quires a flat, stable work surface with a

straight edge for mounting the fence. Ichose an ordinary 3-ft.-wide hollow coredoor for the table because it providesthose things, and at $15, it cost less than

what I could build it for. I mounted thetable to a ledger on the wall. The ledger is75 in. from the floor to give a comfortable

working height. A 5-in. space from thewall gives enough clearance for the guidesystem. Standard door hinges let the tableswing out of the way during storage, andside supports hold the table at a 65 angle

when the table is in use.

The router guide systemSeveral yearsago, I discovered that the aluminum extru-sions used in Tru-Grip's Clamp 'N ToolGuides (manufactured by Griset IndustriesInc.; see the sources of supply box onp. 89) interlock when one is inverted (seethe photo at right). In this configuration,the two pieces slide smoothly back andforth with little side play, like a track. Thissystem has several benefits: A panel can beset directly on the table without having togo under fixed guide rails. The guide is ac-curately located, and the panel is clamped

tightly to the fence and to the table. Theclamps are available in several lengths, butI've found that 36 in. is the most conve-nient (see the sources box). The manufac-turer recommends using silicone spray tominimize wear.

The fence with adjustable stopThefence holds the bottom edge of a panelstraight, adds a runner for an adjustablestop and measuring system, and gives aplace to mount the lower guide stop. Fenceconstruction is partially dictated by the

The fence's adjustable stop perfect alignment. A Biesemeyeadjustable stop and measuring sysciselypositions the le f t sideoftheeach dado or groove. Lauderbaug

pair of dividers to point out twothat indicate left and rightlimits

Channels align subbase and ed u s t The underside ofthe routerreveals an inverted aluminumchannel and a medium-density fibottom with dust-evacuation across it for the bit.

The key to the router guide ilocking aluminum track. Whenthor discovered the edges of Clamp Guides nest and slide easily, he mainto a two-piece guide system: An

21-in. piece is fixed to the routerand another piece is clamped to t

stop because it has two adjustable hairlinepointers, which let you set and read bothsides of a dado (see the top photo).

For the adjustable stop to work, thefence should be 1 in. thick and the topedge of the fence has to be 1 in. abovethe top of the table. My fence is two thick-nesses of -in. plywood laminated to forma 1 -in.-thick piece that is 3 in. wide and96 in. long. To allow the router to passthrough at the end of a cut, I made a 1-in.-deep notch in the fence. The notch is 13 in.

36 in. from the right, so I can dadcenter of an 8-ft.-long panel. To fithe fence, I glued plastic laminattop, faces and ends. Before mountia in. by -in. groove in the bac

vide for dust clearance, which ensuthe bottom of a panel stays flusfence. The fence is mounted to theedge of the table with 2 -in.-long

The upper and lower guide sThe upper and lower guide stop


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Commercial bitsmake clean cuts

Commercial panel routers work so wellbecause the router bits are specificallydesigned to eliminate chipping andtearout, and they can also cut at higherfeed rates. But their biggest benefit isthat their cutter and arbor are two sepa-rate pieces (see the photo at right),

which means that the arbor can stay se-

cured in the router collet while you sim-ply unscrew the cutter from the -in.arbor to change the bit size. Commercialpanel-router bits (see the sources of sup-ply box on the facing page) are availablein a full range of sizes, including under-sized ones for veneer plywood and over-sized ones for two-sided melamine. Anarbor and cutter set costs about $35, lessthan a decent-quality dado blade set.

When you need to change the width ofa dado, select the correct cutter size, andscrew it on the arbor (no wrenches re-quired). The depth of cut doesn't need

90 to the bottom edge of a panel. Thelower guide stop is integrated in the fence(see the top photo on p. 87), and the up-per guide stop is fixed to the top of thetable. The lower stop is a -in. bolt thread-ed into a T-nut inset into a block and gluedto a notch in the fence. The center of thebolt head should be 1 in. above the worksurface, or in. above the bottom of thenotch. The upper stop consists of twopieces of -in.-thick plywood laminated to

Panel-routing bits change easily. Theonly things the author uses from indus-trial panel routers are the bits, whichhave interchangeable cutter tips.

to be reset because the height of the cut-ter stays the same. This process is muchquicker than using a dado blade on thetablesaw, where you have to use shimsto get the proper width, and then maketest cuts to set the depth of cut. S.L.

top is notched on both ends to leave a2-in.- by 2 -in.-wide section in the center.

Another bolt and T-nut are screwed to theshoulder. The center of this bolt is 1 in.above the bottom of the notch. To fine-tune the stops for square, turn the bolts,and lock them with a nut. After the stopsare set, adhere the measuring tape for theadjustable stops onto the top of the fence.

The router subbaseParts for the router

Setup for dadoes is easy. JustClamp 'N Tool Guide to the sclamp the guide to the work by up the black plastic dogs.

board (MDF) bottom, an upper baout of -in. plywood that mounrouter, and a piece of upside-dow

sion screwed to the side so it cathe guide track. Drawing detail the dimensions I used to mount mCable model 690 router. But yomodify the subbase to suit your rogardless of the router, the bottombe in. thick so that the extrusiolock properly.

After the bottom is cut to size, cbaseplate on the bottom, and arouter handles at a right angle to tsion. Drill and countersink the mholes and mount the upper bas

bottom. Next, carefully, plungebit by slowly lowering the routeThen cut two dadoes, each in.

in. wide across the bottom. Thedo runs the full length and thegoes halfway across, 90 to the fT-shaped slot removes dust frombase (see the center photo on p. 8

For the piece of inverted extrusitained stock from the manufactubecause they currently don't sell trately, just buy a 24-in. clamp, anthe ends. I used a 21-in.-long piec

The bottom of the router subba

directly on the face of the panel sodepth of cut is registered from ththe panel. This is desirable becau

you switch material thickness fromin., for example, the depth of

not have to be adjusted. Also, if theslightly warped or some dust gets the panel and the table, the cuttinis not affected. Interchangeable speed up the process (see the box

The router trayThe purposerouter tray is to give the router a

rest after it has completed a cut. Thmounted to the fence on the bacthe notched-out area. My tray is mof -in. plywood and is screwefence. On the right edge of the trayof -in. Plexiglas protrudes intoopening. As the router slides dothe tray, the Plexiglas piece fits incut into the edge of the subbase

vents the router from lifting out of

Using the panel routerThe panel-router sequence to ma


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stop to locate the dado where I want it.Second, I set the panel on the table andslide it up against the adjustable stop.Third, I place the Clamp 'N Tool Guide onthe panel, slide it against the upper andlower guide stops, and clamp it down (seethe top photo on the facing page). In thisone step, the guide is squared to the paneland clamped to the table. Fourth, I set therouter on the panel with the extrusions in-terlocked. I hold the router subbase above

ly, I turn the router on and cut the dado. Tomake stop dadoes, I insert a spacer blockin the bottom of the tray to prevent therouter from cutting all the way across apanel. While this setup may not be perfectfor a large production shop, it is certainlyaffordable and conserves space.

Skip Lauderbaugh is a sales representativefor Blum hardware and a college wood-working instructor. His shop is in Costa

Sources of supplyClamp 'N Tool GuideGriset Industries, Inc., P.O. Box 101Santa Ana, CA 92711; (800) 662-289

Adjustable stopBiesemeyer, 216 S. Alma School RoaSuite 3, Mesa, AZ 85210; (800) 782-18

Panel-router bitsSafranek Enterprises, Inc., 4005 El CR l At d CA 93442 (805) 46


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e live in a turn-of-the-century Arts-and-Crafts house, soit seemed quite natural to furnish it with piecesfrom thatera. My wife bought a pair of Mission armchairs a cou-

ple ofyears ago to go with a 9-ft.-long cherry table Id built for ourdining room. Sixmonths later, she bought two side chairs. It wouldbe a while before we could afford a full set. Within earshot of mywife, I heard myself say, How hard could it be to make these?

Oh, could you? she asked.

cube with a back. Upon closer examination, I realized thawas slightly higher and wider in the front than in the bacfirst time, I was faced with compound-angled joinery. about dowels, biscuits and loose tenons, so I could keepery simple, but I wasnt confident in the strength or lonthese methods.

I wanted good, old-fashioned, dependable mortise-ajoints. After some thought, I decided an adjustable rout

Router Fixture

Takes on Angled TenonsVersatile device ensures tight joints every time

by Edward Koizumi

W


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widely varying sizes and angles (see the photos on p. 77).The fixture I came up with is as easy to set up as a tablesaw. In

fact, there are some similarities (see the drawing above). The work-piece is held below a tabletop in a trunnion-type assembly that ad-justs the tilt angle (see the bottom photo on p. 77). For compoundangles, a miter bar rotates the workpiece in the other plane. Thefixture can handle stock up to 2 in. thick and 5 in. wide (at 0-0)and angles up to 25 in one plane and 20 in the other. This is suf-

To guide the router during the cut, I clamp a guide framefixture over the window in the tabletop (more on positioniner). And I plunge rout around the tenon on the end of thepiece. The guide frame determines the tenons width and as well as whether the ends will be square or round (see thto on p. 81). I made two frames, both adjustable, one for cornered tenons, the other for square tenons.

The fixture and guide frames took me just over a day to

Tenon-routing fixture for compound angles

Trunnion assembly

Pivot rod,38 in. dia.,16 in. long

Pivotsupport

Front

Side

Work platen

Miter bar

Angle scale taped here

Cork facing

Work clamp slidesonto clamping studs.

Recess providesscrew clearance.

Guide frames

Cursorline

Arc

Guide framesare C-clamped

to the tabletop.

This fixture, adjustable in two planes, is designed to let you routcompound-angled tenons consistently and accurately.The tenons can be either squared or rounded,depending on which guide frameyou use (right).

Register bar

Tabletop

Window

Reference lines

Reference line

Tabletop isC-clampedto benchtop.

Arc clamp block

Slotted hlet you aguide frafor a ranof tenon

Turn button for dust collector.

Miter-barclamp


14/44

ing the fixture and making test tenons in preparation for routingthe tenons on the chair parts. The fixture worked just as plannedand allowed this relatively inexperienced woodworker to pro-duce eight chairs that match the originals perfectly.

Making the fixture and guide framesThe fixture is simple to build. It consists of only two main parts,the trunnion assembly and the tabletop. The trunnion assembly

nestled between two pivot supports. Between the twowork platen, or surface, against which I clamp the compbe tenoned. There are other parts, but basically, the fixta table to slide the router on and a movable platen to mworkpiece on.

I built the fixture from the inside out, beginning with platen (see the drawing on the facing page). Because I diany means of boring a 10-in.-long hole for the threadewhich the arcs pivot, I dadoed a slot in the platen and th

in a filler strip. Next I located, center punched and drilledfor the T-nuts and retaining nuts that hold the clampingplace. Center punching ensures that the holes are exacttheyre supposed to be, which is important for a fixture ing to be used over and over again. I center-punched thefor every hole in this fixture before drilling.

Before attaching the clamping studs to the work platethe arcs, which goon the sides ofthe work platen. I laid ou(and the pivot supports) with a compass, bandsawed anthe arcs, and drilled a hole for the pivot rod through tglued and screwed the arcs to the platen. After giving thhour or so to set, I tapped the T-nuts into thebackof the wen, screwed in the clamping studs and twisted on retain

which I tightened with a socket and a pair of pliers.I made the pivot supports next. Then I cut a piece of rod 16 in. long and deburred its ends with a mill file. I slithreaded rod through the pivot supports, arcs and worcapped it at both ends with a nut and washer, and madtached the arc clamps (see the top drawing at left).

Then came the tabletop. I cut it to size, cut a windowmarked reference lines every 18 in. along the front edge fo2 in. With the tabletop upside down on a pair of sawhorthe trunnion assembly upside down on the underside of top. Then I positioned the front of the pivot supports agfront edge of the tabletop and made sure the work platencisely parallel to the front edge and centered left to ridone, I drilled and countersunk holes for connectin

through the tabletop into the pivot supports. I glued andthe pivot supports to the tabletop.

Then it was time to make the miter bar, miter-bar clamwork clamp (see the drawings at left). The mirror on the clamp makes it easy to read the angle scale from above. Iwork clamp with cork to prevent marring workpieces aterbored it to take up the release springs. The release spa nice touch. They exert a slight outward pressure on clamp, causing it to move away from the platen when lthe knobs to remove a workpiece.

The guide framesNow for the guide frames, whichthe tabletop and limit the travel of the router. I made th

adjustable lengthwise to handle a variety of tenoning sBut their width is fixed. To determine the width of theadded together the desired tenon width, the diameter owas using and the diameter of the router base. If yourouter doesnt have a round base, you should either mfrom acrylic or polycarbonate (you can cut it with a circljig on a bandsaw), or buy an aftermarket version. I scrframe together in case I need to alter the opening later (frouter bit, for example). I marked a centerline along the the frame on both ends.

Initial alignmentBefore I could use the fixture, I had to get everything i

Guide frame

Work clamp

Move miter-barclamp downto get full swingof miter bar.

Guide frame

For simpleangled tenons,a trunnion-likeassembly allowsthe workpieceto be tilted inone plane.

Registerbar

Mirror,hot-gluedin place

Index pin

Compound angles (front view)

Angles in one plane (side view)

Miter bar

Miter bar

Workpiece

Workpiece

For compound-angled tenons,the miter barpositions the

workpiece atan angle in asecond plane.


15/44

gle scales from my personal computer and taped them to mture with double-faced tape. But a protractor and bevel gaso will work just fine to create angle scales for both the tiland the miter angle.

To align the parts of the fixture, I flipped it upside downend of my bench and clamped it there. I used a framing sqset both the work platen and the miter bar at 90, stickiblade of the square up through the window of the tabletoresting the tongue of the square flush against the inverted

the tabletop. Then I stuck the angle scales on the two pivoports and on the bottom of the work platen.

Routing test tenonsNext I routed test tenons with the fixture set at 0-0. I posthe guide frame parallel to the front edge and centered on thdow in the tabletop and clamped it to the fixture. I clampepiece the same thickness and width as the actual componthe fixture, with one end flush with the top surface of the tabTo do this, I brought the test piece up so that it just touchebar lying across the window (see the near left photo). I plunge router for the correct depth and routed the tenonwise to prevent tearout.

I made a test mortise using the same bit I planned to usemortises in the chair. The fit wasnt quite right. So I adjustshimmed the frame until the tenon fit perfectly. If you routoo much material and end up with a sloppy tenon on yopiece, you can just lop off the end and start over.

Once I had a tenon that was dead-on, I made an acetatethat allowed me to position the guide frame accuratelytenons of the same si ze, regardless of the angle. I cut asheet of acetate (available at most art-supply stores) sowould just fit into the guide-frame opening. I marked a cenalong the length of the acetate that lines up with the cendown both ends of the guide frames. I also indicated whiwas up and where the acetate registered against the guideThen I put the test piece with the perfectly fitted tenon ba

the fixture, laid the acetate into the opening in the guideand traced around the perimeter of the tenon end using apermanent marker.

Routing angled tenonsWith the pattern, routing angled tenons is pretty straightforcrosscut the ends of all the pieces I was tenoning at the appate angles and marked out the first tenon of each type on twjacent sides, taking the angles off a set of full-scale plans. extended the lines up and across the end of the workpiethe top left photo).

Having set the fixture to the correct angles, I brought thepiece flush with the tabletop using a flat piece of steel as

ence (see the top right photo). Then I clamped the workpplace. Finally, I set the acetate pattern in the guide-frame opand positioned the guide frame so that the pattern and the mtenon were perfectly aligned (see the photo at left). With thframe clamped in place, I removed the acetate and routtenon. All other identical tenons needed only to be flushed routed. After the first, it was quick work.

There are pitfalls though. I found it important to chalk otion marks on each workpiece. It can get confusing with tgles, each with two possible directions. And I had to be espcareful when routing the second end of a component. Makits oriented correctly relative to the first. I messed up a coutimes and have learned to plan for mistakes by milling extr

SETTING UP FOR ANGLED TENONS

Make the workpiece flushwith the tabletop. The authoruses a piece of milled steel, butthe edge of a 6-in. ruler wouldwork as well.

Mark out the tenon on a testpiece. The test piece should bethe same thickness and widthas the actual components, butlength isnt important.

Make a pattern An outline of the tenon traced on acetate helps


16/44

To get flat surfaces on curved parts so I could clamp them in the

fixture, I saved the complementary offcuts and taped them to thepiece I was tenoning. Or I could have tenoned first and band-sawed the curves later.

For pieces with shoulders wider than the bit Im using to removewaste, I clamp a straight piece of wooda register baragainstthe guide frame (a small pocket for screw clearance may need tobe made), as shown in the drawing on p. 78. That way I can routmost of the tenon, unclamp the guide frame, slide it forward (us-ing the reference lines at the forward end of the tabletop to keepit parallel), clamp it down and then rout the remainder. I start thenext piece in the same place and return the guide frame to theoriginal position to finish the tenon. Set correctly, the fixture will yield tight joints, wh

tenons are straight angled or compound-angled Here th

Guide frame determines thickness and width of tenons. Theauthor keeps the routers base against the inner edges of the guide

frame and routs clockwise to prevent tearout. Guide frames canproduce round-cornered or square-cornered tenons.


17/44

Template Routing Basby Pat Warner

In 24 years of self-taught woodworking,I've made a lot of mistakes. Early in mycareer, though, I made a fortunate one.

It started a learning process with the router

that I'm still working on today.

I had discovered what looked like a dev-ilishly simple technique for cutting dad oes.

I used a board clamped across the work-piece to guide the router base. The first

dado looked great, but the secdered visibly off cou rse. That daythat a router base is never conce

the bit. Turning the router as I cu

put a curve in it.I began to look for better way

routers. Some of the best, I haveare with templates. These are si

terns of the shapes you want to

Thr ee bits for rou ting w ith tem pla tes

Straight bits and collar guides are the mostversatile: Collars are not as accbearings, but they have the decided advantage of allowing you to cut at any depboth side and bottom cuts. Fitted to the router's base and used with straight bit

work much like pattern bits. Collar guides also act as a shield for thYou'll find that you will inflict a lot less injury to the template and tby using them.

Collar guides do have disadvantages. Because the collar must be ldiameter than the cutter, the line of cut is displaced from the temp

offset means the finished work will never be exactly theshape as the template. And collar guides are never exaconcentric with the bit: in. eccentricity is typical. compensate for this is to keep the same part of the co

contact with the template throughout the cut.

Pattern bits are the most accurate: I choose pattern bits when I nthe most accuracy. The bearings are typically concentric to the bit .002 in. or better. Bearings do not leave as smooth a cut as collar guthough the difference is generally minute. This is due to the way becan bounce against the template ever so slightly and very rapidly. Othis bouncing tends to wear the template edge unevenly.

The biggest disadvantage to bearing bits is that they're restricted trange of depth settings. The bearing must always engage the edge otemplate. I've also found that bits of this design often have diametelarger than their bearings. If you run this kind of bit with some of th

in contact with the template, you'll rout away some of the templateyour bits with calipers or test them to make sure this doesn't happe

Flush-trimmingbits are the most common: The main advantagusing flush-trimming bits for template work is that they are easier to

than pattern bits, allowing cuts into tighter inside curves.Otherwise, they have many disadvantages. Bottom cuts such as m

are impossible. In other applications, the workpiece can hide the tfrom view, and the router must ride on the work. If it's a small or ththe router will not be stable. P.W.

and slightly cheaper than pattern bits. They also come in smaller diam


18/44

Simple guides make your router an accurate jack-of-all-trade

router registers against a template, using itas a guide through the cut. The simplicityof templates, though, gives no hint of howpowerful a tool they make the router.

The router's usefulness and versatilitybegin with the tremendous variety of bitsthat are available. With only a ball bearingon the end of the bit as a guide, you are

really limited to detailing edges. When you

use a template, however, you free therouter from following the edge of the

workpie ce. The router becomes capableof two more fundamental woodworking

tasks: milling repeatable patterns and allkinds of joinery.

You can easily make your own inexpen-

sive, simple and accurate templates for a

wide variety of joints and patterns. The ini-

tial investment of time to make a tfor a precise task is well worthrouter will perform that task far fafar more reliably than other tools

it's much harder to make mistakyou are using templates.

Templates will allow you to repand shapes perfectly, but only if

member to use the same bit with t

Cutting multiples

A straight bit and collar guide makgood combination for cutting a sta

profiled pieces, like decorative shsupports. The bits can cut stock ofthickness and will produce a smooedge than a bearing-guided bit. Onto keep in mind: The template andfinished piece will not be identicabecause the collar guide keeps theaway from the edge of the templat

Straight bit and collar guidwith template over work


19/44

A tem plate fo rbutt hinge mortises

A pattern bit is a good choice for cuttingshallow mortises precisely and quickly.To make the template, align the hinge on

a piece of template stock, and then markthe outline with a pencil. Bandsaw outmost of the waste, and reposition thehinge on the template stock. Clampstraight-edged scrap around the hinge todefine the edges of the mortise (1). Apaper shim will prevent the mortise frombeing too tight. Then remove the hinge,and rout to the line with the scrap as aguide (2). Remove the scrap, and youhave a finished template that cuts anaccurate mortise (3).

collar at the same depth. The best place torecord this information is directly on thetemplate itself.

Make precise templatesThe best way to learn the basics of tem-

plate routing is to make and use some sim-ple templates. But before looking at thepractical applications for templates illus-trated on these pages, it's a good idea tostart with some general advice about howto make them, what materials to use andthe best ways to use them

ing is making the template itself. All the im-

portant information about the final shape

you want to rout is encoded in the design

of the template. The more accurately you

make your templates, the more time you'll

save in the long run. You'll do less sanding,

fitting and fudging afterward.Sawing, rasping and filing are time-con-

suming and tedious ways to make tem-plates. It's also very hard to make a perfectcurve with hand tools. I never make a tem-

plate by hand unless there is no other way.

I've found that accurate templates are most

templates and other guides.

Templates should be dimensioble, durable and capable of takin

tails. Solid wood is a poor choiceit's not dimensionally stable. Steeand durable, but to a fault. If you

tally touch a spinning bit to onprobably wreck both the bit andplate. Acrylic and Lexan are traand allow you to see the work

They also won't kill bits. But be aa slow bearing will generate eno

from friction to melt them Mediu


20/44

Tem plate for routsmall pieces

Templates can be made so they hopieces as w ell as guide the router.Coupled w ith a pattern bit, the tem

above makes short w ork of cuttingtapered coffee table legs. The woris held on the template with toggleclamps. To keep toggle clamps ou

w ay whi le routing, the author f lipstemplate upside down on the work(left). Blocks betw een tem plate anprovide room for the toggle clamp

Use a pattern bit for tapered

choice. Mind you, it isn't perfect. It's toxicand unpleasant to work with.

Four everyday templatesYou can use any one of the three kinds ofrouter bits designed for template work.

Each has its own strengths and weaknesses(for more, see the story on p. 48). Some bitsare especially well-suited to certain kinds oftemplates, but all of them can bring speedand reliability to repetitive work.

T l f bl h U i

make a single curved shape, like a decora-tive shelf support, might be just as fast astemplate routing it. But only the first time. If

you make any more, template routing willbe faster and easier. A router bit leaves a

much smoother edge than a scroll saw, and

the edge will need far less sanding. Make

the template much the way you wouldmake the support if you had no templates.Smooth, gradual curves on MDF are best

obtained by sanding to layout lines on astationary belt sander.

F hi ki d f k i ' i

you can adjust the cutting depth tthe thickness of the shelf-suppo(see the photos and drawing onCollar guides, however, will displcut from the exact edge of the te

With straight lines, this merely ent

sitioning the template the offset dfrom the layout line. The lines wilas straight.

It's a different story with curves.

w ill m ak e th e bit cut sli gh tly lar ge r outside curves and smaller radii on

Th l ll b f h


21/44

Routing a through mortiseDeep mortises can be cut accurately by starting with atemplate and straight bit with a collar and finishing up

with a flush-trimming bit. First rout the mortise asdeeply as you can with the template as a guide (1).Then drill through to the other side. R emove as much

waste as you can, and then flip the workpiece over(2), A flush-trimming bit that follows the upper part ofthe previously cut mortise will finish the job.

plementary template work, this is a crucialconsideration. But with something like the

profile of a shelf support, the difference is

not consequential. To tell where the bit willactually cut, run a pen in a loose bearing

with the same offset as the collar along the

template to draw the layout line.

Cutting shallow mortisesCutting shal-low mortises that are clean and evenlydeeplike those that you would want forbutt hingesis a difficult task with tradi-

First pass with pattern bit

Finish with flush-trimming bit

hinges, a router guided by a template willgive you more accurate cuts faster and with

less variation between them. The photosand drawings on p. 50 show you how to

make one.Once you've made this template well, it's

hard to go wrong using it as long as youare careful. Router stability on the template

is essential to an accurate and safe cut. A6-in. round base router with a -in.-dia. bit

will have no more than 45% of its footprinton the template in an edge cut. If you make

is reduced to less than 20%. A rwob bles with a lot of cutter eng

break the cutter, tear the stock plate, or even cause a kickback tthe router to the floor. The mach

stay flat and stable at all times.This butt hinge has rounded co

same diameter as the bit. If it hacorners, you'd have to do some h

to make the hinge fit. A bit with aameter than the corners would als

handwork. Just never use a bit wi

er diameter, or you'll have gaps t

Cutting tapers on small pieceworkpieces are far too small to r

if they are sandwiched betweenbench and a template. To taper coffee table, for instance, I built a(or a jig, if you like) that holds tpiece firmly in place with toggle c

shown in the photos and drawing

Guide blocks position the side athe leg but leave enough room

them to clamp the template upsito a workbench edge. In use, netoggle clamps nor the clamps hotemplate to the bench get in the w

To get a good, smooth taper, y

only secure the guide blocks at thangle in relation to the edge of plate. As the router follows the edthe taper angle of the blocks in

Compared with tablesaw techni

require more complex jigs, puat risk and leave a coarse cut, thfar superior.

Tem plate for through mortiplunge router is the best tool f

template cuts, s uch as mortises,-bu

a lot of support to make it safe a

rate. Plunge routers are top heavycomparatively small bases. This mexcellent candidates for router teeproblems. A template for mortis

be large enough so that the plung

base is completely supported byplate at all times during the cut. Th

and drawings at left show a vertechnique to make a through morter than any bit you own.

Pat Warner is something of a jatrades. A woodworker, college iand tool-industry consultant, he aufactures th e Warner O f f s e t RoHis bookGetting the Very Best frRouter was released last fall by


22/44

Increase the versatility of this basic machine

using low-cost, shopmade accessories

Like most power tools, the drill press won't tackle too many

woodworking jobs without jigs to hold work safely and se-curely. I make all of my jigs out of wood and wood products

such as plywood and medium-density fiberboard (MDF). I make

the jigs as simple as can be and use them to handle stock of oddshapes and sizes and to bore at any angle.

The drill press is primarily designed for metalworking. Its metalstock table is too small for clamping large boards. So the first orderof business is to add a larger auxiliary table made of MDF or ply-

wood. A simple solution is to screw the auxiliary table to the stockone. Or if you prefer a table that's fast to remove, make one thatcan be clamped to the metal table (see the photos at right).

Every drill press needs a fence

When drilling a large hole, a bit can grab a board and turn it into aspinning weapon Unless you enjoy getting slapped around by

A BIGGER TABLE

T id l g ki g f l i li

Jigsfor the Drill Press

BY GA RY ROGOWSKI


23/44

REPETITIVE, ACCURATE DRILLING Stop blocks, eithe r hinge d (left) or in the form of spacers (r ight), guaraccura te results when boring multiple pieces or a series of holes.

stock isn't butted right up to the fence, it still provides a measureof safety because it will stop sudden rotation of a workpiece.A fence is a must when you need to drill multiple holes a set dis-

tance from the edge of the stock. The only critical adjustment is thedistance from the center of the drill bit to the edge of the fence.Clear away chips from the edge of the fence when registeringstock against it. And use a straightedge to check your fence regu-larly to make sure it hasn't warped.

Use stop blocks when drilling multiplesWhenever you

must drill more than one of something, use stop blocks to registerstock. The method is faster and more accurate than marking indi-

vidual pieces. A stop block is nothing more than a piece of woodclamped to the drill-press fence. I also have a shopmade tilt-upstop that I can move out of the way, but not so far away that I mis-place it (see the drawing and left photo above).

For drilling multiple holes in a workpiece, such as when drillingshelf pins for a bookshelf or cabinet, I use a series of spacers toregister stock (see the right photo above). Line the spacers upalong the fence, registering the first one against a stop block. Posi-tion the stock against the last spacer, drill a hole, then remove oneblock. Repeat. I have a stack of different-sized blocks within easy

reach of my drill press.

Two wa ys to cut mortises on the drill pressBefore I owned a plunge router, I used my drill press for mortising.

A brad-point bit will do a pretty good job of establishing a neatrow of holes that can be cleaned up with a ch isel (see the photo atright). Use a straight fence and stops to locate both ends of themortise. Drill the two outside holes first and then work you r waydown the mortise, overlapping holes a little. Leave some wood forthe brad-point center to bite into; otherw ise, the bit will drift.

I also made a sliding table for mortising on the drill press. Thetable has two parts: a movable sled, which is fitted with a pair of

ed to the drill-press table (see the top photos and drawinp. 74). The sled is made up of a double layer of glued-up mathick enough to plow grooves for the runners, which are gluplace, without weakening it.

The sliding table has a fence and requires a stop block to the start of the mortise. I also clamp a stop block to the undof the sled to control the length of the mortise. To use the jigor clamp stock in place and use an end mill, a metalworking bbore the mortise. Take light passes. If it chatters, switch to a point bit, smaller in diameter than the end mill, predrill a se

holes and clean up the walls of the mortise using the end mi

Nonsq uare stock must be held firmlyOnce in a while you'll need to drill stock that isn't flat or sqBowling balls come to mind, but that's another article. Cylinstock can be held using a V-shaped block, which provides

BASIC MORTISING

By trap

stock

betwee

stop bl

a mortcan be

roughe

using a

brad-po

bit.


24/44

The jig slides back and forth on runners. Using an end mill (a

metalworking bit), the author takes light passes to cut a mortise.

point contact and plenty of stability (see the le ft photo below). Tomake a V-block, rip a groove on one side of a thick piece of wood,such as a 2x4, using the tablesaw with the blade tilted 45.

For other shapes, you just have to improvise. Wooden screwclamps are good at holding oddly shaped pieces. Clamp the woodscrew to the drill-press table, then clamp the stock to be drilled inthe screw clamp. Err on the side of more rather then fewer clampsif you have doubts.

Tilt the stock when drilling at angles other than 90 Most drill-press tables tilt along one axis. But I am admittedly lazy,and I don't like moving my table back and forth and retruing it to

0 if I can avoid it. Plus, the angle gauges that come witpresses leave a lot to be desired.

I have found that the simplest way to drill angles othis to tilt the stock, not the drill-press table. The first stepthe desired angle onto the stock. Then place a piece of under one end of the workpiece. You may have to maround until the layout mark is in line with the drillsquare or triangle, if needed. Before drilling, be sure

piece is stable.A more stable angle-drilling jig can be made by jo

pieces of plywood with a piano hinge (see the right phoBy wedging a wood block between the two plywood p

JIGS FOR ROUND STOCK OR ANGLED WORK

The V-block

can be madeon a tablesaw

by ripping a

groove in

thick scrap

with theblade set

at 45.

Con

pie

ply

a p

Fit

wed

bet

lea

cre

ang


25/44

For boring into end g rain, an adjustable tab

and fence provide a solid clamping surface

Wedges may be placed between the stock

base of the drill press for additional stabilit

can reach the desired angle. Or better yet, screw the block in placeso that it won't creep on you.

A ded icat ed an gl e ji g for dr ill ing pock et holesThere are alot of ways to attach a tabletop. One method is to run a screwthrough a pocket hole drilled on the insides of the table's aprons.I drill these pocket holes using a dedicated tilted fence on the drill

press. I made the fence of solid stock and ripped one face at 15 onthe tablesaw.To drill the apron, hold or clamp it against the fence. Use a stan-

dard twist-drill bit when drilling at an angle, although a Forstnerbit would also be appropriate. Feed the bit slowly to prevent itfrom grabbing.

CompoundanglesThere are two types of compound angles:equal and unequal. Equal is just that; both angles are the same. Butchairs are rarely that simple. For example, a stool leg may hit thefloor at an 80 angle from one side and 82 from the other side.That's an unequal compound angle.

me the first angle. The second angle comes by way of a phinged jig. As a precaution, place layout marks on the stocdouble-check them before boring away.

Use a tw o-part jig to drill into end grainDrilling into long b oards requires one of two things: great paor another indispensable jig. You can simply tilt your drill

table to 90 and maneuver the stock into position and claThat usually entails a lot of fiddling.Here's a better way. Make up a vertical two-part drilling j

the photo and drawing above). The jig is similar to the m ortisin that it consists of a base and a movable sled with a fence. clamped to the fence and the workpiece can be moved fore and remain plumb (or at whatever angle the jig was set to).Just like a tablesaw, the drill press can handle a lot of jobs

workshop, but the m achine dem ands a ho st of j ig s before iperforms to capacity.

Gary Rogowski is a contr ibuting edi torto F ine Woo dworkingand an a


26/44

Seven Jigsfor Drilling

Cup-Hinge HolesThese small, portable gadgets

let you drill 35mm Forstner-bit

holes without a drill press

B Y R E X

A L E X A N D E R


27/44

designated jig just to drill a hole? If

you have cup hinges to mount, the

answer just might be yes, because

to make the hinge both strong and easy to

install, the cup is designed to fit snugly in-

to a 35mm hole bored in a cabinet door. A

cup hinge installed in a sloppy hole wont

enjoy full strength. So you want the hole to

be a good one. Thats exactly what these

jigs promise to help you do.The jigs come in a variety of designs.

Some offer stark simplicity at a low cost.

Others are more sophisticated and come

with a price that reflects that refinement.

But all of these jigs have a couple things in

common. They get their power from an

electric or cordless drill. And they serve as

a surrogate tool for the drill press, support-

ing the 35mm bit when a drill press cant

be used. Without that support, a large bit

like this will skitter around the wood.

These jigs are especially handy when

youre faced with drilling cup-hinge holesin a door thats large and unwieldy. Just

clamp the door to your workbench, then

mount the jig and drill.

The jigs are also handy if youre installing

cup hinges at a remote site, where theres

no access to a drill press.

All of the jigs allow you to adjust the dis-

tance from the edge of the door to the edge

of the holea dimension called the back-

set or tab. This dimension provides the

necessary clearance for the door to open.

Also, each jig has a mark, usually a notch,

that serves as a guide to positioning it on

the door. Use a square and a sharp pencil

to mark the hinge centerline. Then align

the pencil line with the notch on the jig.

Most of the jigs have some sort of clamp-

ing system that anchors the jig to the cabi-

net door as you drill. A couple jigs are

handheld. One has to be screwed down.

With a few exceptions, the jigs also pro-

vide some sort of means to position and

guide a smaller drill bit to bore pilot holes

for two mounting screws that secure the

cup to the door.

Its easy to see how one of these portable

gadgets can have a useful place in a work-shop. So when asked by Fine Woodwork-

ingto give the jigs a workout, I was happy

to comply. (An unexpected dividend from

drilling countless cup holes during my 27-

year career as a cabinetmaker.)

Rex Alexander builds furniture and cabinets in

Brethren, Mich.

A

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0

Cup hinges simplify door installations

Cup hinges, also called European-sty

concealed hinges, came into promin

in Europe immediately after World W

These hinges still are the standard in

rope, but despite years of favor there

hinges didnt attract much attention

the United States until some 15 to 2

years ago. Thats when cabinetmake

here began to recognize that theres

to like about them.

For example, the hinges are comp

ly out of sight when the cabinet door

closed (hence the moniker, conceale

hinges), and they pack plenty of stre

Plus, they can be installed quickly a

low considerable adjustment of the door after it has been installed.

Cup hinges are commonly available as two-piece hinges. The cup and moun

plate are mounted separately. Then, much like youd secure a seat belt, the cuhalf of the hinge and the door its mounted to simply slip into the mounting pla

and lock securely in place. The mechanism makes it easy to disengage the tw

halves of the hinge, so the door can be removed for easy cleaning.

Some cup hinges can be installed entirely without screws: They simply pres

into place. Others offer various types of quick-mounting attachments.

Cup hinges really shine after theyve been installed. Because simply by turn

a few screws, you can adjust the door in three planes: up or down, side to side

in or out. As a result, you can just about be certain that a door is going to end

fitting perfectly.

Youll find cup hinges at many hardware stores or building supply centers. Y

can also get them on-line at www.cabinetparts.com or www.wwhardware.com

I N S T A L L I N G A C U P H I N G E

Drawing: Vince Babak; photos, except where noted: Tom Begnal; this page: Erika Marks

Cabinet side

Door

Backset

Cup hinge

Mounting

screw

35mm hole

for cup


28/44

E U R O E A S Y D R I L L

66 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G

E U R O - E Z E I I

A removable stop block,

attached to the underside of

the Euro-Eze II, is used to establish any of eight

backset options. A Forstner bit is included.

The clamp works okay. And the backset is easy to

set up. However, even though Id given the brass nut

on the depth stop a good hand-tightening, the stop

slipped about 18 in. after drilling a few holes in oak. I then discovered the nut could be

hand-tightened another quarter turn or so, apparently because the bit heated during

the cuts and softened the plastic collet and hub that are part of the stop system. The

stop stayed securely in place after that second tightening. A self-centering bit is avail-

able as an option. It fits nicely into predrilled holes for the mounting screws.

This jig has a low price and is simple to use. If your budget is limited, and you have

only an occasional need to drill holes for cup hinges, the Euro-Eze II is worth consider-

ing. But keep an eye on the depth stop.

Woodworkers Supply (800-645-9292) sells the jig ($29.95) and the optional self-

centering pilot-hole bit ($9.95 for a 764-in.-dia. bit; $29.95 for a 5mm version).

Drilling the mounting holes.A

self-centering bit is used to drill

the pilot holes for the mounting

screws. The jig has four pairs of

predrilled holes for the bit .

C O N C E A L E D H I N G E J

This jig has two main parts: a te

(a steel base with a hardwood fe

and a plastic housing that acce

built-in Forstner bit. The fence m

tains an accurate backset. And

clamping the jig is quick and ea

The Jig-It doesnt have guide ho

for drilling the pilot holes for the

mounting screws.

The housing is a nice feature

cause it helps keep the bit squa

jig as you drill. And because the

simply lifts off the base after a h

been bored, the chips dont pac

the bit, a nuisance I ran into witple of the other jigs.

The Jig-It sells for $29.99 (Fo

bit not included) at Rockler (80

4441). A 35mm, carbon-steel F

bit costs $15.49; carbide costs

Keeping square. The housing hel

keep the bit square to the door as

hole is drilled.

Among the jigs tested, the Euro Easy Drill is unique

in that it must be screwed to the door before drilling

can begin. Then, once the cup hole has been start-

ed, the jig is removed, and the hole is completed by

eyeballing the final depth. Backset adjustment is

possible with the Euro Easy Drill, but it requires fid-

dling with screws and a square to make sure every-

thing lines up.

If you dont have a drill press and have only a few hinges to mount, this jig will do a

decent job. But the lack of a mounting clamp and a depth stop slows down everything,

so youll need to bring a good measure of patience to the shop. The Euro Jig is available

for $8.99 from Woodcraft (800-225-1153); a 35mm bit costs $22.99.

Start drilling. The hole in the jig

acts as a bushing, keeping the

Forstner bit contained and pre-

venting it from skittering around

as the cut starts.

Photos, this page (top left, top right, bottom left)


29/44

Machine-screw fence.A pair of knurled,

brass machine screws serves as the fence.

V E R I TA S H I N G E - B O R I N G J I G

Like the Veritas Hinge-Boring Jig, the Euro Drill is

handheld. With a pivoting stop on each side, you can

quickly position the center of the hinge at the com-

monly used dimension of 334 in. from either end of

the door. The depth stop is easy to use. However, the

Euro Drill doesnt offer a way to drill pilot holes for

the mounting screws.

The chips have a tendency to pack pretty solidly

around the Forstner bit, so plan to clean them out af-

ter drilling each hole.

This sturdy jig looks like one a professional might

have in his toolbox. I just wish there could be a quick

way to clamp the jig rather than hold it in place by

hand. As was the case with the Veritas jig, the

Euro Drill was awkward to hold flat as I drilled. You

can buy the Euro Drill from McFeelys (800-443-

7937). The price, not including a Forstner bit, is

$98.95. A 35mm carbide-tipped Forstner bit will cost

another $23.95.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0

E U R O D R I L L

Packing them in. With no place to

go, the chips quickly pack around t

Forstner bit, even after one cut. Th

author used an air-compressor hos

to blow out the chips after boring

each hole.

The Veritas is a nicely built jig thats designed to be handheld. A pair of brass mac

screws serves as an easy-to-adjust fence. The depth stop works well. A long, bent

that mounts to either side of the jig quickly allows you to set all of the holes thesame distance from the door top and bottom. A built-in carbide-tipped Forstner bi

comes with the jig.

But the design could use a little tweaking. For instance, when trying to drill a p

hole for the mounting-plate screws, the drill chuck butted against the jig, prevent

from drilling a hole that was square to the door.

All in all, this is a sturdy jig that looks like it could hold up to drilling lots of ho

jig felt comfortable in my hand, but it was awkward to hold flat when drill ing. My p

ence would be to clamp it in place. The Veritas Hinge-Boring Jig sells for $99.75 f

Valley Tools (800-871-8158).

Handheld. This jig isnt designed to be clamp

cured to the door. Instead, you hold the jig in p

a handle that extends out the front. The autho

have preferred a clamp.

Photos, this page (top left, bottom right): Erika Marks


30/44

The Ecodrill

is designed for use

with hinges made by

Blum or with other hinges

that match the Blum pattern.

Mounting holes are 8mm and accept only Blums

Press-In or Expando dowels or Blums Enserta hinge.

Chuck a Torx driver bit (supplied) into your drill. Slip the bit into a mating

nut on the end of the Forstner bit and start drilling. Then do the same for

the two pilot holes. Youll need to clean out the chips after drilling the holes.

This jig has adjustable backset stops, which may be set to seven differ-

ent positions. Its also easy to use the clamp. Pivot down the handles, and

the jig clamps to the door.

This professional-quality jig is a pleasure to use. It sets up quickly and

then drills the cup hole and two mounting holes to the correct depths in sec-

onds with little effort. Id use it even if I had a drill press. You can order the

Ecodrill from the Superior Distributing Co. (800-622-4462). The $169 price

includes the Forstner bit and two 8mm bits.

Drilling t

hole and

lot holes

easy as o

three. On

the driver

cap screw

end of the

Forstner bdrill the h

move the

to a pilot-

and drill;

three, rep

the final p

Dial in th

set.Setti

backset is

matter of

pair of mu

blocks.

B L U M E C O D R I L L

This top-of-the line jig drills all of the co

hinge patterns. In addition to the 35mm For

bit, it comes with a 764-in.-dia. bit for the mount

holes; 5mm and 8mm bits are sold separately.

The bits for the mounting holes can be adjusted to a

eight different positions. And once adjusted, a pair of m

pins ensures that the bits wont shift out of position. To

lish the backset, just turn two short, plastic levers to th

setting you want.

The Fisch jig is the most expensive of the bunch, bu

the hallmarks of a well-built tool, starting with a beefy

aluminum housing that serves as the foundation for all

maining parts. The Forstner

cleanly and quickly. Like BluEcodrill, Id use this one eve

had a drill press. The jig is a

for $219.99 from Fisch Prec

Tools (724-663-9072).

F I S C H M U L T I - P A T T E R N E U R O J I G

Movable mounting-hole

bits. The jig offers eight

different positions for the

mounting holes. And once

the bits are positioned, a

pair of steel pins keeps

the bits locked in place.

Select a backset.Just turn a

levers to set the backset to any

options.

68 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G Photos, this page (top and bottom left)


31/44

he mortise and tenon is one of

the most common woodworking

joints. So a good tablesaw tenoning

jig is a valuable tool for the shop. But top-

quality, commercially made jigs dont

come cheap. When I was faced with cut-

ting a bunch of tenons, I decided to build a

jig that included all of the features found in

a top-of-the-line model.

The jig has a tall fence to support the

workpiece. And a heavy-duty hold-down

keeps the stock securely in place. To mini-

mize tearout, a narrow piece of scrap stock

can be temporarily clamped in front of the

workpiece. The jig slides smoothly along

the table of the saw without side-to-side

play. And a threaded rod with a crank al-

lows easy and accurate adjustment of the

workpiece relative to the blade.

Once I worked out the design and

bought the parts (see Sources on p

put together the jig in only a few hou

total cash outlay for everything was

$40, inexpensive compared with a

bought jig with the same features.

The jig is made of 34-in.-thick me

density fiberboard (MDF), a smooth

rial that tends to stay flat and is reaso

inexpensive. Keep in mind that the

sized for my Delta Unisaw. However

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 0Photos: Tom Begnal

T

ShopmadTenoning Jig

Micro-adjustment feat

adds ease and accur

B Y B R A D S C H I L L


32/44

er and nut. When the two parts have

assembled, the holes create a pock

accepts both washers and nuts.

I used a router with an edge guide

the slot in the platform for the carriagBefore routing, I drilled a 516-in.-dia. h

provide a starting point for a 14-i

straight bit. The head of the carriage

fit almost any saw simply by adjusting the

length of the base as needed.

One more point before starting. Most of

the parts of this jig are cut on the tablesaw.

That means the saw must be cutting accu-

rately. If it isnt, the jig wont have the built-

in precision thats needed to make perfect

cuts. So, before you get going, make sure

the blade and rip fence are parallel to the

miter-gauge slot and that the blade is

square to the table.

Rip the runners firstWhen the jig is in use, its guided by an ul-

trahigh molecular weight (UHMW) plastic

runner (see Sources) that travels along thesaws miter-gauge slot and fits in a groove

in the jigs base. Cut the runner for a snug

sliding fit in the slot. If the runner doesnt

fit snugly, it can shift as it slides. While

youre at it, cut the two plastic runners that

mount to the platform. By the way, any

good combination blade will produce a

smooth cut in UHMW plastic.

Cut the MDF partsWith the runners cut, you can start working

on the MDF base and platform. Because

these two parts have a pair of parallelgrooves that need to align when the jig is

assembled, cut both parts from an over-

sized blanka single piece of MDF, 14 in.

wide by 24 in. long. That way the grooves

in both parts can be cut at the same time to

ensure alignment.

This is also a good time to cut the re-

maining grooves. The groove on the un-

derside of the base accepts the miter-gauge

runner. The groove on the back face of the

fence accepts the platform.

Now cut the blank into two parts: one

914 in. long for the platform and one 13 in.

long for the base.

The connecting block and the support

block work together as part of the micro-adjust system. Both of these parts have a

hole bored on one face, with each hole

drilled just deep enough to accept a wash-

74 F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G Drawing: J

Cut some grooves.A dado head plows a pair

of parallel grooves in an oversized blank.

Cut the blank in two. Crosscutting the b

provides stock for the base and platform

Rip the plastic runners.A combination blade

makes a smooth cut in UHMW plastic.

Fence guide block,

4 in. wide by

6 in. high

Hold-down

Fence,

14 in. wide by9 in. high

Groove for platform,38 in. deep by 34 in.

wide

With a heavy-duty hold-down, an extra-tall fence and a large,

stable base, the tenoning jig provides a good measure of control

and safety during a cut. MDF parts (all 34 in. thick) are smooth and

stay flat. Runners made from UHMW plastic slide smoothly.

T A B L E S A W T E N O N I N G J I G


33/44

system, its just a matter of screwinconnecting block to the support blo

To add moisture protection to the

a good idea to apply a couple of co

polyurethane to the MDF parts. Mo

the hold-down completes the jig.

Brad Schilling enjoys working wood in Fair

Heights, Ill.

recessed in a counterbore in the undersideof the base. Now add the threaded insert to

the crank block. Drill a 12-in.-dia. hole, lu-

bricate the outside threads of the insert

with wax and screw it in place.

Assemble and finishAt this point, all of the MDF parts can be

screwed together. Keep in mind, though,

that MDF tends to split, especially whenscrewing into an edge. So its important to

drill pilot holes before adding screws.

After that, cut the three runners to final

length. Then drill, countersink and screw

each runner in place.

The micro-adjust system comes next. Cut

the threaded rod to length. Then add the

crank, nuts and washers. To complete the

J A N U A R Y / F E B R U A R Y 2 0 0

S O U R C E S O F S U P P L

REID TOOL (800) 253-0421

Crank (part No. JCL-1160)

Knob (part No. DK-167)

ROCKLER (800) 279-4441

3-in. hold-down and UHMW plastic

314 in. 414 in.

Fence platform,

14 in. wide by

914 in. long

3 in.

Threaded rod,38-16 by 912 in.

Crank

Threaded

insert, 38-16

internal thread

Crank bloc

212 in. wid

434 in. hig

Crank-block s

212 in. long by

212 in. high

Groove for runners,38 in. deep by 34 in. widePlastic platform runners,

34 in. square by

9 in. long

Carriage bolt,516-18 by

112 in.

Plastic miter-gauge runner,34 in. square by 14 in. long

Base, 14 in. wide

by 13 in. long

Slot for carriage bolt,38 in. wide by

234 in. long

Fence bracket,

534 in. long

by 5 in. high

Scale

Connecting block,

212 in. wide by

314 in. high

Knob,516-18 thread

Two 38-in. nuts

with washers

Support block,

212 in. wide by

4 in. high


34/44

Few woodworkers enjoy the luxury of aspacious shop, and Im no exception.

Lacking the space for many large ma-

chines, I rely on my router when building fur-

niture. However, used on its own, the router

is limited in its abilities. More often than not,

I use it in conjunction with various shopmade

jigs that increase its ability to quickly and ac-

curately cut circles, make edge profiles, cut

dadoes, trim edge-banding, and even substi-

tute for a lathe.

The five jigs illustrated here are all made

from cheap and stable plywood or medium-

density fiberboard (MDF) and require only afew pieces of hardware, available through Lee

Valley (www.leevalley.com; 800-871-8158) or

Rockler (www.rockler.com; 800-279-4441).

These router jigs are as easy to use as they

are to make.

Yeung Chan builds custom furniture in Millbrae, Calif.

Photos: MarkF I N E W O O D W O R K I N G68

ADJUSTABLE CIRCLE-CUTTING JIG

All pieces of the jig are made of 12-in.-thick plywood.

A 134-in. b

the slot m

the jigs s

Guides,

212 in. wide

by 5 in. long

Crosspiece,

5 in. wide by

12 in. long

Cutout, 2 in. dia.

Five

SmartRouterJigs

Get more from your

router with this set

of easy-to-make

accessories

B Y Y E U N G C H A N

Machine screw

Nut

Two mounting holes let you

work around breaks in slot.

Pin

Runner


35/44

M A Y / J U N E 2 0 0 5

This jig can be used to rout a circle with a maximum diameter of 72

but the design can be modified for other diameters. First, drill a 1

dia. hole, 14 in. deep, in the middle of the workpiece. If you dont want

hole to show, work on the underside. Next, mark a point on the desire

of the circle, place the sled over the base, and fit the jigs pin in the ce

hole. Move the base in or out until the bit is on the mark, then lock th

Turn on the router and plunge down to start the initial cut, which s

be less than 18 in. deep, just enough to define the circle. Use a jigsaw

cut away the outside pieces, leaving about 18 in. outside the final size

the circle. This method enables you to support the corners as they are cut

that they wont damage the finished workpiece. Once the bulk of the w

has been removed, the router has to make only a light final cut. If you

working with solid wood, pay atten-

tion to the grains orientation and

the bits rotation. Climb-cut when

necessary to avoid tearout.

The final cut. The router now has to remove only a small amount of materi

creating less dust and leaving a clean cut.

Remove the waste. Followin

track left by the router, saw athe waste.

Drawings: John Hartman

Cut perfect circles

Make a shallow cut to define the circle.

The initial cut made with the router shouldbe only about18 in. deep.

Base, 7 in. wide by 41 in. long

SLED DETAIL

Hardwood runner, 12 in.square by 5 in. long,

rides in slot in base.

Slots, 14 in. wide by 914 in. long with

a 12-in.-wide by 316-in.-deep groove

in the bottom (see detail below)

Pin, 14 in. dia. by at

least 234 in. longPin holder, two

pieces each 2 in.

wide by 5 in. long

Washer

Slot, 12 in. wide

Head of machine bolt is

flattened on two sides

to f it in the groove.

Locking screw

Set the size of the circle. With the pin registered in the center

of the workpiece, move the jigs base until the inside edge of the

router bit is aligned with the desired outside edge of the circle.

CrosspieceBase

Visit our Web site to see the au

demonstrate his circle-cutting

finewoodworking.co


36/44

It is a difficult job to cut a large panel on a tablesaw thats not

equipped with a sliding table. So I made a simple jig that can be

used to cut out a section from a full sheet of plywood or medium-

density fiberboard (MDF) or to clean up a rough cut made by a jigsaw

or a circular saw.

Once youve assembled the jig, run the router along the straight

edge of the fence to create a matching straight edge on the base. To

use the jig, clamp it at both ends of the workpiece with the edge of

the jig aligned with the desired

cut. As the router rides along the

jig, it leaves a perfectly straight,

clean cut.

STRAIGHT-EDGE JIG

Always use the same-diameter router bit with this jig. A sma

bit will cut wide of the jigs edge, while a larger bit will eat i

the jig.

F I N E W O O D W O R K I N G70

Cut clean and accurate dadoes.

Clamp the dado jig at both ends and

make the cut in two or three passes.

Ireach for this jig when I have to cut multiple parallel dadoes on

a panel. Most of the time these grooves are perpendicular to the

short fence of the jig, but they can be cut at different angles. Like the

straight-edge jig (above), this one needs to be clamped at both ends

during use. As long as you use the same size bit each time, and the

same angle, the entry cut on the jigs short fence will show the loca-

tion of the dado. Use an up-cut spiral bit, which will prevent chips from

jamming in the dado. For deep dadoes, make several passes.

Trim or cut large panels

Cut dadoes at any angle

DADO

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