SPREADING AND SPREADING AND CUTTINGCUTTING

SPREADING AND SPREADING AND CUTTINGCUTTING

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

• MARKER MAKING; a marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement

of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread.

marker making :1. drawn by chalk on the top most layer of fabric2. drawn in a piece of paper which is placed on top( patterns are cut with allowance or without

allowance)

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

• SPREADING-placement of the plies one upon the other.

• CUTTING1. Block chopping(for matching

fabrics-i.e stripes and checks)

2. Pattern chopping-final cutting—for plain fabric

SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES FOR CUTTING DEPARTMENT

• POSITION MARKING Notch marking….straight

notch(positioning) v notch(at curves)

• SHADING OR TICKETING• SLOPING/RESPREADING-for pattern

chopping• BUNDLING-sorting and stacking

SYMMETRIC AND ASSYMMETRIC DESIGN

FABRIC

SYMMETRIC AND ASYMMETRIC PATTERN

TYPES

•SYMMETRIC PATTERN•ASYMMETRIC PATTERN

MARKER MODES•NAP EITHER WAY•NAP UP AND DOWN•NAP ONE WAY

SPREADING MODES•FACE TO FACE•FACE UP

Straight Knife

• Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives the reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay.

Advantages: It is most common means of cutting lays because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a round knife, relatively reliable and easy to maintain.

Straight knife parts• (a) Machine base plate.• (b) The blade housing.• (c) The power system.• (d) Blade drive• (e) The cutting blade.• (f) The blade sharpener device• (g) The operating handle• (h) The blade guard.

Straight knife

Straight Knife specification

• Blade types:1. Straight2. Saw tooth-for thick fabric like

canvas/jeans.3. Wavy fabric-for synthetic fabric

since heat generated is low.

Rotary cutting machines

• -the basic difference between the rotary and straight machines are the blade shape and blade thrust. The rotary cutting machine has a circular knife whose edge rotates counterclockwise into the superposed plies as the machine is propelled laterally into the spread.

• -This cuts the fabric with one way thrust of the blade edge, whereas the st. knife cuts with a two way thrust ,up and down.

Rotary cutting machines

Rotary cutting machines

•

Advantage: It is a fast machine , excellent for cutting straight lines or gradual curves.

Disadvantages: It is difficult for a circular blade to negotiate a tight curve, such as an arm hole.

Band knife machines.

• Band knife blades are narrower than straight-knife blades .

• This permits more precise perpendicular cutting on small intricate curves and angles.

• The turning of the block on the narrower blade disrupts the superposed plies less than the wider blade of a turning st. knife in the same block.

• Tables usually have an air floatation system.• The fabric is either pulled back or pushed into the

cutting blade.

Band knife machines.

• Advantages: Band knifes are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required. They are used more in mens wear than in women’s wear as they are often used to cut large garment parts, such as large panels of jackets and overcoats.

Band knife machines

Elimination of fabric faults:

1. Make through-by leaving faults in garments and inspecting out at the end of manufacture and designating them as seconds.

2. Splice marking-Cutting out the defective portion by creating a splice. splice marks are marked on the edges of the table before layering.

3. Sort and cut method-faults are marked by a strip of contrasting fabric at the side of the lay and later recutting the piece.

REVISION• Sequence of activities in cutting.• Symmetric and asymmetric design.• Symmetric and asymmetric

garment.• Marking mode-n/e/w,n/u/d,n/o/w• Spreading mode-f/f,f/up• Cutting machines

• THANK YOU