FUSINGBy:Ashutosh KumarAshutosh vatsaKr. Pramendra SinhaS.k. Pegu

What is Fusing?It is a process of attaching an interlining, especially to the part of a garment that requires stiffness.Some of the application area of Fusing in a garment are placket, collar, cuff, waistband, men's jacket forefront, etc.

Requirements for FusingBase ClothResinsCoating SystemInterlining

Base Clothes (Substrate)It is an interlining material onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed.Properties of Garment influenced:Handle and BulkShape RetentionShrinkage ControlCrease RecoveryAppearanceDurability

Non-wovenKnittedWovenTypes:

Types of InterliningWovenProduced from animal hair, viscose, cotton, polyester or acrylic fiber.Maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention.Varying properties in warp and weft direction.

KnittedProduced from Polyester, polyamide, acrylic and viscose fiber.Elasticity to the fused Components.Soft and lofty handle.

Non-wovenOriginated from paper industry.Mixture of fiber held together at bond sites.Factors affecting end performance: fiber, web formation, bonding.

Woven InterliningKnitted InterliningNon-Woven Interlining

Non woven InterliningExtensively used in Industry.Properties could be modified as per end uses.Fibers: mostly Synthetic fiber like viscose, nylon, polyester or acrylic is used.Web Formation: orientation of fiber in substrateDry laid web formationWet laid web formationSpun bonded websBonding: locking of fiber together.Mechanical bondingChemical bonding

ResinsThe material applied to base cloth and when subjected to heat and pressure, they become the sole bonding agent between Top cloth and Interlining.Thermoplasticity, change with heat, is the basis of fusible interlinings.In cold state, it is not adhesive, when subjected to heat and pressure, melts and creates a bond.

Factors affecting suitability of Resins:Upper limit temperaturegenerally not more than 1750c, should not damage top clothLower limit temperaturegenerally not less than 1100c, to ensure adequacy of bondingCleanabilityTo withstand the washing and cleaning throughout life of garment ThermoplasticityChange in heat and pressure is sufficient enough to form a bond with top clothHandleShould contribute to desire handle of final laminateSafetyHarmless in processing and end-use

Types of ResinsPolyethylene : used for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-cleanable. Polyamide : Dry-cleanable.Polyester : Cheaper, wide range of fusing temperature (650-1200C).PVC : used for siliconized rainwear fabric, requires softening with plasticizers.Resin Blends : used for specific purposes, blend of above mentioned maerial.

Distribution of ResinInadequate bonding(incorrect)Strike through and strike Back(incorrect)Correct bonding with good Penetration of Adhesive(correct)

Components of FusingResin melt Temp. is 1300-1600C, applied Temp. should be in the range of 50CToo high Temp. could cause strike through or strike back

TemperatureUse of electro-mechanical timing devices to measure timeTime applied depends upon type and nature of resin, substrate, top cloth and fusing equipments.

TimeReduces the latent temperature to 300CUse of water cooled plates, air-circulation, vacuum.

CoolingUsed to establish an intimate contact between to-cloth and fusible.Applied via platens, bucks or nip rollers.

Pressure

Single FusingFusible positioned on the top of the Cloth

Reverse FusingCloth is Positioned on the top of Fusible

Sandwich FusingFusing 2 components in 1 operationCloth on the outside, 2 fusible in the middle

Double FusingFusing 2 fusible positioned one on the top of other, to the top cloth in 1 operation

Top FusingFusible components are positioned on the top of the cloth and heat I applied directly to the top cloth

Fusing Methods

Coating SystemThe process in which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured onto the substrate material.It involves the application of carefully selected Particle size fraction of Particular resin being used.

Coating Methods:Scatter coating:largest particle size 150 to 400 micronsSpecifically designed scattering heads provides scatter under automatic controlResin is softened in an ovenPressed on base cloth and cooledCheapest methodProduct is not uniform and flexible

Coating Methods (Contd):Dry dot printed coating:Powdered resin fills engraved holes on the rollerBase cloth passed over heated rollerThen against engraved rollersThe powdered resin adheres to cloth in from of dotsFollowed by oven heating for permanent adhesionTemp and pressure of rollers depends on resin typesPattern : 3 12 dots /cmLight weight fabric - small dot high concentrationHeavy weight fabric large dot small concentration

Coating Methods (Contd):Paste coating:Resin powder blended with water or other agents to form smooth paste Printed on base clothHeat removes water Gives precisely shaped dots ANUSHAGives fine dotsUsed in shirt colour fusiblePerformed systemExtrusion laminatingEmulsion laminating

Defects in fusing Process:

Fusing EquipmentsFlat Bed PressContinuous Fusing MachineHand IronSteam PressHigh Frequency Fusing

Flat Bed PressPadded top and Bottom bucksHeating Element in 1 or both bucksBottom Buck Static, Top buck can be moved verticallyOption of Single tray and Twin tray systemsLow ProductivityThe three processes are Loading, Fusing and Cooling.

Flat Bed Press

Continuous Fusing PressUse of Conveyor Belt as a mean of transportSynchronized belt speedHeating plates, cylinder, rollers, and heating zones are usedRubber covered steel rollers to apply pressureAir cooling and water cooling systemsTake off could be done manually or mechanically

Continuous Fusing Press

High Frequency FusingMultiple plies are stacked up (up to 70 mm height) and fused simultaneouslyHigh ProductivityHeat from high frequency energyNo shrinkage or color change Dielectric heat: plates generate high frequency field, heat effect is distributed uniformly in length ,width and full height between platen

High Frequency FusingHeating effect is different for different polymersAdhesive is heated up faster than fabric or interliningTime depend on capacity of High Frequency unit and weight of load to be fusedE.g.; 30 Kw unit ; load 5-20 kg : 1-3 min Disadvantage: the press needs to be set for fusing materials on basis of fibre, content, weight thickness and moisture content

High Frequency Fusing

Manufacturers:Shanghai Dahe New Material Technology Co., LtdRocmachine Co., Ltd.Tianjin Tian-Yin Machinery And Electron Co., Ltd.

Quality ControlTemperature Test papers : reacts by changing color. Pyrometers : high accuracy, rapid response, costly.Stop watch: High accuracy.Peel strength TestDry-clean and wash Test.

Control System

Thank youBibliography:Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklinwww.fusingpressindia.commachinery.fibre2fashion.com/7/fusing-machinewww.apparelntextile.com/products_apparel_interlinings.html