102811 Cotton Ravic Hand Ran

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COTTON, FIBER, FINISHES &PERFORMANCE

Duraisamy Ravichandran,Director - Textile Testing

Intertek Consumer Goods, NA

October 28, 2011



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Performance Claims

Moisture Management

Wicking

Antimicrobial

UV Protection

Easy Care / Wrinkle Free

Water resistance / Water proof

Air permeability

Water Vapor Transmission

Soil Release (Stain release / Stain resistance)



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Moisture Management (MMT)

Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics : AATCC 195 -2010

To evaluate the dynamic liquid transport properties of textiles in three dimensions:

1.Absorption Rate: Moisture absorbing time of the fabrics inner and outer

surfaces

2. One-way Transportation Capability: Liquid moisture on-way transfer from

fabric’s inner surface to outer surface

3. Spreading Rate: Speed of liquid

moisture spreading on fabric’s inner

and outer surface



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MMT: Principle

The liquid moisture management properties of a textile are evaluated by placing

a fabric specimen between two horizontal (upper and lower) electrical sensors

each with seven concentric pins.

A predetermined amount of test solution that aids the measurement of electrical

conductivity changes are dropped onto the center of the upward-facing testspecimen surface.

The test solution is free to move in three directions: radial spreading on the top

surface, movement through the specimen from top surface to the bottom surface,

and radial spreading on the bottom surface of the specimen.

During the test, changes in electrical resistance of

specimen are measured and recorded.



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Apply the test solution onthe inner surface

(synthetic sweat)

Spread on fabric’s inner and

outer surfaces

Transfer the solutionvertically

Mechanism

Upper concentric

moisture sensors

Lower concentric

moisture sensors



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Grading Table


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Uses and Limitations

Liquid moisture transports like human perspiration can be

attributed.

X Does not relate to gaseous moisture transport from body or

tactile properties that influence human perceptions of comfort

X Does not give an overall rating of comfort of a garment or

textile. It is a combination of absorption, wicking, liquid and

vapor movement that can be related to the environment ,

garment fit, style in which the textile product is to be used

and worn by.

X Not applicable to coated, laminated, or complex fabric

constructions, thicker fabrics with high absorbency.



Wicking

Evaluates the wicking ability of vertically or horizontally aligned test

specimens, exposed to distilled or deionized water over a period of time, where

wicking is influenced by gravity.

Vertical Wicking of Textiles - AATCC TM 197-2011

Horizontal Wicking of Textiles - AATCC TM198-

2011



Vertical Wicking - AATCC TM 197-2011

• The rate (distance per unit of time) liquid travels along

and/or through a vertical fabric specimen is visually

observed, manually timed and recorded at specified

intervals.

•Option A: Measure time at a given distance

Should wick to minimum of 20 ±1 mm in < than 5.0 ± 0.1

min

Total time taken to wick 150 ± 1mm distance is recordedand has to be under 30.0 ± 0.1 min

Record time and distance and report for the specimen

tested.



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Vertical Wicking cont..

Option B: Measure distance at a given time

Test is continued only if fabric wicks unto any distance

in 10.0 ± 0.1 min

Time under 30.0 ± 0.1 min to wick through a maximum

distance or the end of specimen is recorded and

reported.



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Influenced by fiber content, fabric construction,

mechanical or chemical processing or a combination of

these.

Results does not duplicate an end-product’s exposure

during wear.

Not a measure of comfort which is beyond the scope of

testing



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Horizontal Wicking

AATCC TM 198 -2011

Evaluates the wicking ability of horizontally aligned

test specimens to distilled or deionized water

The rate (area per unit of time) liquid travels through a

fabric specimen is visually observed, manually timed

and recorded at specified intervals.



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Horizontal alignment test configuration

Dispense 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of water

from the 10 ± 1 mm height onto the

center of the 100 ± 3 mm marked

circle

The test is terminated when the

water reaches the 100 ± 3 mm circle.

Record the distance the liquid hasspread in the length and width

direction of the fabric and the time

elapsed



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This method is primarily applicable to fabrics that absorb

the full volume of the test liquid, without pooling on the

surface or allowing dripping

The movement of liquid within a fabric may be influenced

by fiber content, fabric construction, mechanical or chemical

processing or a combination of

These not a measure of comfort which is beyond the scope

of this method



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Antimicrobial Test

Most common tests are, Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:

Assessment of, AATCC TM 100 – 2004

Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile

Materials: Parallel Streak Method, AATCC TM 147 -2004



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Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials:

Assessment of

AATCC TM 100 -2004

Quantitative Evaluation of degree of Antibacterial

activity

The method tests for both bacteriostatic (growth-

inhibiting) and bactericidal (bacteria-killing) properties

A fabric is said to have good antibacterial property

based on the % reduction of bacterial activity within a

known colony of bacteria.



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AATCC TM 100 -2004, Principle

Swatches of test and control textile materials are tested

qualitatively for antibacterial activity by AATCC Method

147,Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile Materials:

Parallel Streak Method. Those showing activity are

evaluated quantitatively.

Test and control swatches are inoculated with the test

organisms. After incubation, the bacteria are eluted from the

swatches by shaking in known amounts of neutralizing

solution.

The number of bacteria present in this liquid is

determined, and the percentage reduction by the treated

specimen is calculated.

Incubation Temp: 37°C

Incubation time: 48 hrs

Agar Medium: Nutrient

Agar

Test Culture:Staphylococcus aureus

(ATCC 6538)

Klebsiella pneumonia

(ATCC 4352)

No. of Test Specimen: 5

pieces / circular / @ 4.8

cm in diameter with 1mL inoculums per trial



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Results and Interpretations

% reduction of each bacteria type is

determined to know the effectiveness

of the finish .



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Limitations

The test can become cumbersome if the test

fabric doesn't readily absorb liquids

(hydrophobic).

Not Suitable for materials which tends to be

encapsulated and prevents diffusion of the

antibacterial neutralizing substances

Any top of finished fabrics (shows

antimicrobial activity in original state).

A tib t i l A ti it A t f T til



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Antibacterial Activity Assessment of Textile

Materials: Parallel Streak Method

AATCC TM 147 – 2004

Qualitative method performed to know the presence of

antibacterial activity

Quick Method (done over a 24-h period), cheap, simple,

and well-defined.

Used as a primary test before AATCC TM 100 isperformed and once sample passes TM 100, subsequent

batches (lots) are checked by TM 147



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Evaluation of Textiles – Bacterial

Test Organisms - Staphylococcus aureus and

Klebsiella pneumoniae –

Test material is placed across 5 parallel streaks ofthe microorganism on a highly nutritive growth

substrate.

Incubate at 37 ± 2°C for 18-24 h.

If effective treatment is present a zone of inhibition

and contact inhibition are visible



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Limitations

AATCC TM147 cannot be used to measure the relative

efficacy of one antimicrobial versus another because

antimicrobials diffuse through agar at different rates or not at all.

Since the amount of antimicrobial present is usually based on

the weight of the fabric, a light fabric may not show activity

despite being appropriately treated, and diffusion seen in the

test does not represent antimicrobial behavior in actual use.

The method provides a nice visual demonstration of inhibition,

but also engenders confusion (due to subjectivity in evaluating

the contact inhibition)



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Water Resistance / Water Proof

Most common tests are,

Water Resistance(Rain test) AATCC TM 35 - 2006

Water Proof (Hydrostatic Pressure test) AATCC TM 127

- 2008



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Rain Test AATCC 35 -2006

Resistance to the penetration of water by impact,

and thus can be used to predict the probable rain

penetration resistance of fabrics

A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is

sprayed with water for 5 min under controlled

conditions. The blotter is then reweighed to

determine the amount of water which has leaked

through the specimen during the test



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Evaluation and Reporting

Water penetration is indicated by the increase in mass of the blotting paper

during the 5 min test period is calculated.

The average for the three test specimens is reported.

Individual determinations or average values of over 5.0 gm

may be simply reported to 5 + g or > 5 g.

For US Customs, rain wear should pass requirement of 2 feet for 2 minutes



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Water Proof AATCC TM 127 - 2008

Performed using Textest FX3000 Hydrostatic Head Tester

(Option 2).

Used to measure the resistance of a fabric to the penetration

of water under hydrostatic pressure

One surface of the test specimen is subjected to a hydrostatic

pressure, increasing at a constant rate, until three points of

leakage appear on its other surface

Option 2 (Hydrostatic Head Tester): Uses an electronically

controlled pump to apply hydrostatic pressure at 60mbar/min.

Distilled water or De ionized water is used @21±2 deg

Celsius

Wrinkle Resistance / Easy Care / Durable



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Wrinkle Resistance / Easy Care / Durable

Press

Most common test methods ar e,

Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home

Laundering, AATCC TM 124 – 2010

Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after

Repeated Home Laundering, AATCC TM 143 - 2010



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Procedure

Samples are washed and dried 5 times as per care

instructions provided, then conditioned and evaluated for,

fabric surface smoothness and garment seam

smoothness

Evaluated with out ironing the garments or textile fabrics.

Assessment is performed against the respective

photographic replicas and ratings are provided incomparison to the replicas viewed.



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Evaluation

Appearance board and

room used for evaluation

should be painted Grey

Color.

Two F96 Cool white

Fluorescent lamps should

be used for evaluation



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Fabric Smoothness AATCC TM 124 - 2010

SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very

smooth, pressed, finished appearance.

SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica.

Smooth, finished appearance.

SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica.Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance.


Mussed, nonpressed appearance.


Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.


Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled

appearance.



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Seam Smoothness, AATCC 88B - 2010

For Single needle stitches: For Double needle seams

C R t ti AATCC TM 88C 2010



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Crease Retention AATCC TM 88C - 2010

Grade 5 – Best, Grade 1 - Poor



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Ultraviolet Protection

Transmittance or Blocking of Ultraviolet Radiation through

Fabrics, AATCC 183 -2010

Standard Practice for Preparation of Textiles Prior toUltraviolet (UV) Transmission Testing , ASTM 6544

Standard Guide for Labeling of UV-Protective Textiles,

ASTM D6603



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AATCC 183 – 2010

Test method to determine UV blocking or transmittance through textile fabrics

The transmission of ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) through a specimen is

measured on a spectrophotometer or spectro radiometer at known wavelengthintervals.

Specimens are tested in Dry and Wet state. Mean UPF values, Transmittance

and Blocking are obtained from the Spectrophotometer.



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ASTM D6544

UPF is the value to be placed on a garment label needs to be the lowest

protection value expected during consumer use over a two-year period

For Swimwear: 40 Washes + 100 Hrs Weathering + Chlorinated Pool Water

For All Other Apparel: 40 Washes + 100 Hrs Weathering

Specimens are then tested as per AATCC 183 – 2010.

One time use garments are tested in original state alone.



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UPF Label

ASTM D6603 standard guidelines for UPF labeling, regulated by FTC

The lowest rating of either the original or prepared specimens are

regarded as UPF rating.

The UPF value gives you an indication of how good a fabric is at blocking

UVR. A fabric with a UPF of 20 will only allow 1/20th of the UVR to pass

through it, a fabric with a UPF of 50 will only allow 1/50th of the UVR to pass

through it



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Air Permeability

Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics

, ASTM D737 -04 (2008) e1

The rate of air flow passing perpendicularly through aknown area of fabric is adjusted to obtain a prescribed air

pressure differential between the two fabric surfaces. From

this rate of air flow, the air permeability of the fabric is

determined

Values are in cm3/s/cm2 and in inch-pound units asft3/min/ft2 rounded to 3 significant digits

F t t id



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Factors to consider

Construction and Finishing of fabrics

Yarn twist, Yarn size and cover factor. (can improve or decrease)

Aids in monitoring of the manufacturing process of

specialty fabrics



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Water Vapor Transmission

Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of

Materials, ASTM E96 – 2010

It is the measurement of the amount of moisturevapor in grams that pass (breathe or permeate)

through 1 sq.m of fabric in 24 hours at specified

temperature and humidity

Water Method is commonly used to test this propertywith test conditions Procedure D: Temp: 32.2ºC and

50% RH

P d D



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Procedure D:

Test Dish : Non corroding, light weight impermeable to water and vapor

Test liquid : Distilled water

Test Chamber: Capable to maintaining controlled and even temperature, RH

and with horizontal even surface.

Balance: Good sensitive balance that can weight as close as 1%

Thickness measuring gage: Good with an accuracy of 1% of the reading.

Fill the water upto ¾ from test specimen, seal the specimen, then weigh the

contents before placing in controlled atmosphere. Periodically weigh and note

down the values to calculate the gram of water vapor transmitted through an

area of fabric in 24 hrs of time.

Oil R ll



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Oil Repellency

Hydrocarbon Resistance test AATCC TM 118 - 2007

To detect the presence of a fluoro chemical finish, by

evaluating the fabric’s resistance to wetting by a selected

series of liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions.

Drops of standard test liquids, consisting of a selected

series of hydrocarbons with varying surface tensions, are

placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting,

wicking and contact angle.

The oil repellency grade is the highest numbered test liquid

which does not wet the fabric surface

P d



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Procedure

Oils with varying surface tension are used.

Two specimens are tested

Begin with lowest numbered liquid, at five

locations.

Observe the drops for 30 ± 2 s at 45° angle

If no wicking or wetting, proceed to next oil

and so on until wetting of the fabric surface is

observed.

Evaluation



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Evaluation

The grade is expressed as the integer value of the pass test liquid immediately

prior to the fail test liquid

A = Passes; clear well-rounded drop

B = Borderline pass; rounding drop with partial darkening

C = Fails; wicking apparent and/or complete wetting

D = Fails; complete wetting

S il l



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Soil release

Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method, AATCC TM 130 -2010

This test method is designed to measure the ability of fabrics to

release oily stains during home laundering.

This test method is primarily for use by fabric finishers to

evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual

use

A stain is applied by force to a test specimen. The stained fabricis then laundered and the residual stain rated on a scale from 5 to

1 by comparison with a stain release replica showing a graduated

series of stains



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Evaluation

Mount the stain release replica on the mounting board, with the center of

the standard 114 ± 3 cm (45 ± 1 in.) from the floor.

Place the test specimen flat with face up in the center of the non-glare

black topped table with one edge of the table touching the mounting board.The fabric shall be rotated to be viewed from the direction which produces

the lowest rating.

Viewing distance shall be 76 ± 3 cm (30 ± 1 in.) from the back mounting

board, with the eye at 157 ± 15 cm (62 ± 6 in.) from the floor. The rater

should stand directly in front of the specimen.

Varying the viewing angle either horizontally or vertically can affect

grades obtained on some fabrics

R ti d G d



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Reporting and Grades

Calculate the average of 4 grades for each fabric, (2 judgments

on each of 2 specimens), to nearest 0.1. This is the unit of

measure for this test method

Grade 5 — Stain equivalent to Standard Stain 5





Grade 5 represents the best stain removal and Grade 1 the poorest

stain removal

General



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General

Durability of functional finishes are checked by extended

laundry tests.

Additional tests to confirm the safety of the product has to

be performed to ensure product compliance to RSL.

All performance based claims has to be substantiated

through testing.

One or more of the finishes can be combined to add value

to the product

Questions ?



Questions ?

.

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