10 Years10 Brands

10 Artists

Celebrating the 10th year anniversary of Dover Street Market, we take 10 artists and pair them with 10 brands, the artist in turn creates a piece of work inspired by the values and aesthetic of the brand.’10’ shows what visual outcome that results in, exploring how two creative fields can be merged together and celebrated.

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Comme de GarçonsPaul Bloomers

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Kawakubo's profound influence in the fashion industry is as a symbol, a touchstone by which many designers can justify their risk-taking and sometimes their very existence in the professionShe has fiercely challenged convention at every turn. Her garments bear al-most no relation to those of other designers, betray almost no influence from other fashion eras. As one for-mer employee, the designer Hiroyuki Horihata, once told W magazine, all she ever wanted was to “make clothes that nobody has ever seen. She want-ed extreme beauty.”. Her nonconform-ist clothes, with their Dalíesque con-tours, are the visible expressions of her inner life, a passionate cauldron of ideas, feelings, and intuitions. They are often asymmetrical, de-stroyed, or deconstructed in some way.

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Vessels comes from that indefatigable sense of Kawakubo’s work that suggest and reveal complex forms apart from their material nature. A form in which a kind of due process or technological unraveling becomes more than an interpretation but a bodily pronouncement which situates the wearer and sus-pends the body in an intelligence that is itself the seed of replication. Vessels is in some way an illustration of this flux. Through the body becomes the modern and technological di-gested as if a cultural artefact, however, what is revealed is the fluidity of time and the construction of structure. Shapes that act as points of cognition in a tertiary field where nodes compress and weave the cultural fabric in might what appro-priately thought as a space to the consummation of things.

Floating Vessel (01)

Floating Vessel (02)

Floating Vessel (03)

Jil SanderLinda Antalova

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The ultimate Jil Sander show is so rigorously disciplined, and so pre-cisely executed, that it can sometimes feel as if you’ve just come out of a lecture on trigonometry. So sin-gle-minded is her view – the purist of the pure, most minimal of all min-imalists – she is utterly unswerving in her vision. As she put it in her show notes: ‘High-carat feminini-ty, graceful and incorruptible… Con-trolled emotion in dresses and skirts…Vigorously articulated tailoring.’Jil Sander is renowned for her pared-down style, Sander marries neutral colours with architectural silhou-ettes. Her utilitarian collections incorporate strong tailored pieces and androgynous, minimal separates.

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‘Sequence ≈’

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Replication. Sensations and impressions emerge from the shadows and forge themselves into concreteness. Rudimentary architecture - sequence gives birth to substance and shad-ow becomes form, the void into matter. From this dark mould, an ectype emerges turning craters in the mind’s eye into material ex-istence, into relief. Subject begets object and the object takes on life. What once was the absence of light and volume now engages with other forms on its own terms, living now in a world of planar realities of colour and texture. From this sequentialisation of ab-sence a new existence is borne into a milieu of structure and presence.-Linda Antlova 2014

‘Ectype I’

‘Ectype II’

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J Js LeeIra Svobodová

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J. JS LEE is by Jackie JS LEE who was born in Seoul Korea and she came to London to take the Post Graduate Pat-tern Course at Central Saint Martin in 2007. And after her two years of working as a pattern cutter at Kisa London she came back to study at Cen-tral Saint Martin for her MA degree. Her MA Graduation Collection in 2010 received much positive press and buyer attention, and also was rewarded the revered Harrods Award; with her col-lection being house in the window of the Knightsbridge Department Store. In March she launched her eponymous label, J JS LEE featuring sleek and chic androgynous pieces in tailoring. Her vision for creating a la-bel which defines a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way has been giv-en a platform to launch itself.

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‘Pink’

Chic minimalist and the modern way. Sophisticated combi-nations of natural and significant colours, with glazed parts. Precise details presented in an elegant way. A Game of light, shade and shadow. All of this is apparent in my paintings and I relate to this way of thinking in fashion. I took inspiration from the more colourful piec-es in the collections to recreate it with paintings . It was very natural for me, as I feel the work of J Js Lee and I both adore motto “Less is more”. - Ira Svobodová

‘Turquoise’

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10Damir DomaCorey Hemingway

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Damir Doma is a Parisian fashion brand founded in 2006 by the designer Damir Doma and Paper Rain. The Croatian-born designer grew up surrounded by toiles in his mother’s atelier in Germany and later studied fashion in Munich and Berlin, where he graduated in 2004. After gaining experience in the atel-iers of Antwerp designers Raf Simons and Dirk Schonberger, he relocated to Paris to going Paper Rain in 2007.Damir Doma’s work is harmoniously linked be a sense of uniform and an obsessive interplay between shadow and light, with designs that encapsulate a meas-ured study of proportion and a juxta-position of rough and refined textures.Questioning the modern wardrobe, gar-ments offer multiple expressions of identity - contrasting elements of androgyny with dress codes across cultural and historical spheres.

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‘Doma’

'This painting is a representation of Damir Domas SS14 collection. I have taken inspiration from it's colour, texture and movement to create a fea-ture wall for an in-store installation.By combining gouache, pencil and fine-liner i have captured the fluidi-ty and structural elements of this collection. The circle motif repre-sents the frequently placed polka dot and the stripe is depicted from the bold use of orange throughout.My aim was for the painting to have seamless continuity with the collection.'-Corey Hemingway

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ErdemVictoria Arney

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Erdem Moralioglu was born and raised in Montreal, Canada by his Turkish fa-ther and English mother. He moved to London to attend the Royal College of Art where he received his master’s de-gree in 2003. Upon graduation, Mor-alioglu moved to New York to work in the design studios of Diane von Furstenberg before relocating to Lon-don to launch his own label in 2005.The eponymous label continues to bring together modern elegance and wearability through his couture-lev-el craftsmanship each season.His en-igmatic florals are key each season. Erdem is especially admired for the dreamy, watercolor prints that he de-signs himself on a Mac computer. He considers each season “a chapter in the same book. A love story that would be set in a lush English garden filled with “color, optimism, and oddities.

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‘Untitled 2’

My work deals with fugitive landscapes that are in a state of transience – I work between known and unknown 'scapes' using internet collections to research sites of ruin, loss and transition through natural and manmade interventions. Sometimes this stripping away of the top layer of landscape through these activities reveal a historical sense of ourselves with the landscape.Artifice / ArtificiumArts + facere 'make' – what we can make of natureERDEM-In relation to this designer I asked the ques-tion what do we do with Nature and how does this relate to our ideas of nature ? I was interested in his use of historical textile designs and flo-ra and fauna designs from the Russian Tzar period.

‘Untitled 1’ River in Aubussion France( famous for its 17th & 18th century wool tapestry) Personal archive Wool colours were set by washing them in the local streams – the oval is a japanese floral block print.‘Untitled 2’ Taklamakan Desert oasis ruin in-ternet archive.An abandoned Oasis on the Silk Road (Taklamakan Desert )where fabrics were trad-ed to the Russian Tzars/ a repeat oval of a tra-ditional Russian floral print V&A archive‘Untitled 3’ Disused Greenhouse in Turkey where Fruit trees were force grown/ ovals from a vintage dictionary of Flora and Fauna personal archivesEach space has a history to the decora-tive industry that has altered the landscape.- Victoria Hauge.

‘Untitled 1’

‘Untitled 3’ -

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Craig GreenMatthew Johnstone

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London native Craig Green completed a BA Fashion Hons (Print) and MA Fash-ion at Central Saint Martins.Balancing light, shadow, and reflection the young designer creates conceptual and weara-ble fashion.The contrast of sculptural design created for spectacle and some-thing more practical almost utilitar-ian.His work revels between both con-ceptual and wearable designs, always shining a strong light on the mascu-linity in his work. With recent designs showcasing jagged, carved masks and shirts embellished in glossy waxed cot-ton with hand-painted stripes, they are nothing short of revolutionary in mens-wear. Yet within his work lies a lot of depth, as he experiments with shad-ows and reflections to create meaning.

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My interest is in an object that can take up a liminal position, that apprehends itself and encourages anthropomorphization. An ob-ject that casts a disinterested gaze on the administration of its character and favours dissonance, absurdly asking to be asked, what is the nature of its nature. This object is idealised and can reformulate and problema-tise the paradoxes of its meaning endlessly. It offers itself to thought as the desire to be unthunk. It is simple and dumb and complex and technical, phenomenological and critical, crafted, overspecialised and dying slowly. If it reacts and seems content to undermine itself, or can express the desire to become the things it isn’t, then it might be generative and useful as an Artwork.-Matthew Johnstone

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Christopher KaneGareth Proskourine-Barnett

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The Christopher Kane brand was found-ed by the designer in 2006 upon his graduation from Central Saint Martin’s College, London. He has developed a reputation as one of the most talent-ed and innovative British designers. His brand is known for its inven-tive and imaginative fashion, offer-ing classic yet subtly daring designs. His visionary approach has resulted in highly individualistic, unorthodox styles that whilst unique, remain truly covetable and wearable. His embellish-ments and detailing, graphic prints and strong colour palette render him one of Britain’s most notable designer.

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Virtual explorations and a sense of place - landscapes experienced as fragmented, distorted and estranged. A walk around Christopher Kane's home town of Glasgow and one of its many high rise apartment blocks as ex-perienced via Google Street View inspired a series of images of mutated architecture. Examining notions of progress, change, and dis-location, and discovering the lost forgotten and misplaced, the images reflect a landscape in a continual synthetic flux. I am particu-larly interested in the act of ‘displacement’ or the physical movement from place to place of imagery or data and the changes that occur during this process.

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SacaiRosalind Davis

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Sacai is the label that brings the finest quality knits, reformed in un-usual ways with contrasting fabrics. Having previously worked for Comme des Garçons, Japanese designer Abe Chitose created Sacai in 1999 to showcase her own skill and expertise.Fusion design in her hands isn’t as loudly concep-tual as the work of her pioneer com-patriots. Instead, her fresh merging of garments and fabrics is intended to be the opposite of difficult, portable, wearable art. For Sacai the importance is put on conceiving fabrics and pat-tern techniques that haven't been done before which involves reinterpret-ing classical or traditional aspects of clothing and synthesising ideas.

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Rosalind Davis is an artist whose central concerns are trans-formation, space, process, material and surface. The collab-oration with Sacai has been about a meeting of interests and philosophies that go deeper than the aesthetics of surface and pattern but is engaged with innovation and experimentation. Rosalind Davis’s paradoxical abstracted structures and landscapes portray an unfolding, complex set of possi-bilities for both physical and psychological space, re-versals of form- of dislocated and disorientating folding spaces. With Sacai’s brand there is also a complex read-ing of form, reversing and reconfiguring the traditions of functional form, layering geometry and folds. There are references in the inspiration, to observing surroundings, Davis’ works are informed by a number of real spaces in-cluding Venice and Paris as well as imagined places, Sacai by observing the everyday. In Davis’ work the image is literally sewn up and pinned down, whilst Sacai transforms fabrics in a similar way- slicing and reconfiguring. The threads in Davis works act as restraints and the tautness of the lines splice and dissects physical and psycholog-ical boundaries into geometric planes and shards echoed again in patterns revealed in Sacai’s complex fabrics.

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Peter PilottoAdrián Navarro

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Peter Pilotto's vision of womenswear embraces both new and classic per-spectives on elegance. Otherworldly prints combine with soft, sculptural shapes to form the handwriting of the design duo, something which evolves and is explored each season as op-posed to being reactionary. Embrac-ing both the future of fashion inno-vation and the elegant silhouettes of the past, to constructs clothes that are both artful and incredibly weara-ble.Print masters for the 21st centu-ry, harnessing both digital technol-ogy and traditional craftsmanship to bring highly detailed, kaleidoscopic patterns to their sculptural pieces.

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‘Magenta and Blue Fragment’

‘Blue and Lime Fragment’

Adrián Navarro seeks to expand the vo-cabulary of the visual arts, establish-ing connections between the pictorial medi-um, perception, architecture and abstraction. His work is a product of a dialectical reflection: the pulsation of life that plays tensely with the role of our body in the artificial world. In his pic-tures he shows a number of elements that can usually be considered antithetical, facing gesture to geom-etry, background to figure, disorder to order, the virtual to the real, two-dimensional to volumetric.An apparently informalist background made of gestural brushstrokes functions as an organ-ic landscape, this plane is rendered by a uni-form grid of white dots that let you glimpse the inside, showing a struggle between opposites that creates the effect of permeability and de-tachment on the viewer. Navarro’s visual explo-ration celebrates the dichotomy among physical confinement and expansive freedom in painting.

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Hussein ChalayanSilja Addý

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Hussein Chalayan has often been dubbed fashion's resident mad scientist, and the British designer's avant-garde creations continually push the bound-aries of what the human body can wear. One season he devises a coffee table that transforms into a wooden skirt, while another season he creates an entire collection from the sturdy en-velope paper known as Tyvek. Chalayan crosses disciplines to explore the latest innovations in science, de-sign, music, and multimedia arts.His designs are seen to challenge any re-ceived notions of what fashion can be.

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'The Malady of Elegance (Burka Series) 1'

'Theory of Silence (Gendercide Series)''Variable Piece'

Silja Addý’s work draws on the culturally-in-scribed female role and aims to re-weave the complex social fabric. Playing with narratives constructed around culture and anthropology, her sculptural pieces create a poetic work on an intimate scale laden with personal reso-nance. The relationship between garments and the body, form, cut and dress code is about defin-ing cultural territory, reflecting on the social body, politics, conformity and individuality.

'Performative / Narrative'

'The Malady of Elegance (Burka Series) 2' -

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A great thank you to all the artists who contributed to ‘10’

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1Paul Bloomfield - www.ploomers.com

2 Linda Antalova - www.lindaantalova.com

3 Ira Svobodová - www.irasvobodova.com

4 Corey Hemingway - www.coreyhemingway.com

5 Victoria Arney - www.victoriaarney.com

6 Matthew Johnstone - www.matthewjohnstone.com

7Gareth Proskourine-Barnett- www.garethbarnett.co.uk

8 Rosalind Davis - www.rosalinddavis.co.uk

9 Adrián Navarro www.adriannavarro.com

10 Silja Addý - www.siljaaddý.com

Art Direction / Graphic Design - Emma Sheridan - emmasheridan@live.com