109 Saint Pauls Road - Lowry EcoSolutions Report - Murray... · 109 Saint Pauls Road Ardmore, ......

109 Saint Pauls Road

Ardmore, Pennsylvania 19003 !

www.lowryeco.com (484) 416-0161 [email protected]

Fax (484) 840-5263

December 22, 2010 Mrs. Maureen Murray 452 Colebrook Lane Bryn Mawr, PA 19010 Reference: Energy Audit Report 452 Colebrook Lane, Bryn Mawr, PA Dear Mrs. Murray: I am pleased to provide the attached report for your consideration. This information was gathered through discussions with you and a detailed energy audit of your house. This energy audit was done in conformance with the Building Performance Institute (BPI) Technical Standards for the Building Analyst Professional. This attached report includes the following information:

• Summary and Background including information provided by you and data collected during the energy audit;

• Findings and Recommendations - Presentation of the data collected including general observations regarding equipment, insulation, air leakage, moisture issues, blower door testing, and infrared imaging. Recommendations and cost opinions for repairs or upgrades are provided.

• Cost Opinion Summary and Conclusions

• Funding Opportunities

I appreciate the opportunity to audit your house and trust you will find the enclosed information helpful. If you have any questions regarding the information enclosed or finding contractors to perform work, please contact me at (484) 416 0161. Sincerely,

Eric C. Lowry, P.E. Attachment

!

www.lowryeco.com (484) 416-0161 [email protected]

Fax (484) 840-5263

Energy Audit Report

Date: December 22, 2010

Subject Property: 452 Colebrook Lane

Bryn Mawr, PA

Prepared for: Mrs. Maureen Murray

!

Mrs. Maureen Murray 12/22/10 Page 2

I. Summary An energy audit was performed of your house on December 17, 2010 and we offer the following major points for your information. A detailed description of the energy audit observations and recommendations regarding possible repairs and upgrades is provided below.

• The two electric water heaters should be considered for replacement with a single gas fired water heater;

• Blower door testing and infrared imaging indicated that the house is leaky; • The attic and basement duct systems should be tested for leaks and air sealed /

insulated where necessary; • The attic is under insulated and should have additional insulation installed; • The attic should be air sealed to reduce air flow into the living space; • Multiple recessed light fixtures and bath fans are not air sealed.

II. Background The subject property is a single-family detached house with a full-finished basement, and unfinished attic. The property owner expressed concern with high electricity bills. Audit Date 12/17/10 Building Information Year Built: 1969 (Approximately) Building Area: 6103 Square Feet (including basement) Building Volume: 49659 Cubic Feet (including basement) Heating Fuel: Gas Water Heating Fuel: Electric Air Conditioning: Central Water: Public Sewer: Public Weather @ Time of Audit Sunny Temperature, 23 OF @ 0900 hours Light wind

!


III. Findings & Recommendations

A. Recommendations

The recommendations provided in this report are for your consideration in selecting possible repairs, improvements or upgrades for your house. Often times, multiple repairs or upgrades may be performed by the same contractor or at the same time if you do-it-yourself, such as insulation and air sealing. However, it is important that any improvements you select be done in an order that does not cause problems for later improvements, such as installing blown insulation over ductwork that will later need to be repaired. The recommendations offered above are not listed in order of importance. The Cost Opinion Summary lists the recommendations in order of importance from most important to least important in terms of safety and possible energy savings.

B. Infrared Camera Images

Infrared images were taken using a thermal imaging camera and indicate areas of lower and higher temperature. The darker blue color indicates cooler temperatures while the red/yellow/orange/white colors indicate progressively higher temperatures. Each photograph includes a description of the image. These images are provided throughout this report to better aid explanation of each topic.

C. Carbon Monoxide Testing

We tested your house for the presence of carbon monoxide (CO) and found one (1) part per million during the energy audit (in the basement). Your house does have combustion appliances including the gas furnaces and gas water heaters. If these operate inefficiently or malfunction, they could give off CO. Additionally, you have an attached garage that may be a source of CO. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), “Most people will not experience any symptoms from prolonged exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm but some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain.” (http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/466.html)

CO is a colorless and odorless gas that results from the incomplete combustion of fuels including natural gas, propane, wood, and oil (any fossil fuel). CO can sicken or kill people.

Recommendation: We recommend all clients install at least one CO detector. Preferably, one CO detector should be installed on each floor of the house.

!


Cost Opinion: $20 to $60 each depending on the model and features.

D. Air Leakage Testing

Air leakage in a house is generally considered a normal fact and is the result of natural and man-made effects. Air leaks both in and out of our houses through intentionally and un-intentionally created openings. This air movement carries moisture, heat, and contaminants both into and out of a house. The Stack Effect created by warm air rising in the house creates positive and negative pressures and causes warm air to exit the house and cool air to enter the house. Figure 1 below indicates the Stack Effect with red arrows indicating warm air movement and blue arrows indicating cool air movement.

Figure 1 – Stack Effect and Common Air Leaks

Additional causes of air leakage in our houses include wind, chimneys and exhaust fans, and leaky air conditioning ducts.

Our goal is to understand the location and relative size of the air leaks in your house and potentially recommend air sealing and/or insulation in order to reduce the amount of air leakage, thereby saving energy and money. In an effort to promote acceptable indoor air quality, the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) have established a Building Airflow Standard (BAS) for houses. ASHRAE Standard 62-89 recommends that houses have air leakage of 0.35 Air Exchanges per Hour

!


OR 15 Cubic Feet per Minute per occupant (whichever is greater). The air leakage in your house should be between 70% and 100% of the BAS, both of which are noted below. Blower Door Test

A blower door test was performed on your house resulting in an air leakage rate of 6538 cubic feet per minute @ 50 Pascals. Based on the volume of your house, air leakage should be in the range of 2464 to 3520 as indicated by the blue and red areas in Figure 2.

Figure 2 - Graph of Blower Door Test Results

This indicates that the house is approximately 1.85 times leakier than the ASHRAE Standard recommendation. Air Sealing

The most significant source of air leakage in your house was through the attic via the duct system, recessed light fixtures, tops of walls, and light switches / electric outlets. Figure 3 through Figure 9 show leaky duct registers and recessed light fixtures during the blower door test. Air leakage through the duct registers is due to the ducts in the attic not being sealed. Recessed light fixtures are not airtight and allow air leakage unless they are well sealed.

"!

#"""!

$"""!

%"""!

&"""!

#$%$!

'(#"!

%('&!

AIR

FL

OW

@

CF

M5

0

70% BAS

100% BAS

Your House

!


Figure 3 – Two examples of openings in the basement duct system that allow air to be drawn into the duct system from an unintended location.

!


Figure 4 – This photo shows a hole in the attic ductwork (red arrow).

Figure 5 - At left, the return register in the master bedroom. At right is an infrared image showing blue and reddish color at the register. This indicates cool air leakage through the duct system in the attic.

!


Figure 6 – The image at left shows the supply register in a bathroom. The infrared image at right shows blue and reddish color at the register (red arrow) and also the recessed light (yellow arrow) indicating cool air leaking in from the attic space.

Figure 7 – At left, an air conditioning register and two recessed light fixtures. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color indicating cool air leakage.

!


Figure 8 – At left, two hallway recessed light fixtures. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color indicating cool air leakage.

Figure 9 – At left, a recessed light in the family room. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color indicating cool air leakage coming through the light fixture.

!


Figure 10 through Figure 14 show air leakage from the attic into the walls. This air leakage is due to the fact that the tops of both interior and exterior walls were not sealed during construction. This air leakage carries heat both into and out of the living space making it more difficult to heat and cool the house to a comfortable level.

Figure 10 – At left, the family room wall and ceiling. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color along the ceiling and top of wall indicating cool air leakage. This is likely due to a failure to air seal and insulate the rim joist the separates the first floor from the second floor.

Figure 11 – At left, ceiling and wall connection. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color at the connection indicating cool air leakage from the attic into the wall. The yellow arrow indicates a recessed light fixture also exhibiting air leakage.

!


Figure 12 – At left, a shelf area in the guest bedroom. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color within the wall that indicates cool air leakage.

Figure 13 – At left, the master bedroom ceiling. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color along the ceiling and top of wall indicating cool air leakage and missing or poorly installed insulation.

!


Figure 14 – At left, the master bedroom wall. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color on the wall indicating cool air leakage and missing or poorly installed insulation. The red box in the left photo is the area of cold air leakage shown in the infrared image. The red lines indicate the door frame in both images.

!


Electric outlets and light switches are sources of air leaks as shown in the following figures.

Figure 15 – At left, the master bedroom wall and two electric outlets / cable boxes. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color at both indicating cool air leakage and missing or poorly installed insulation. Also note the blue line at the baseboard indicating cool air leakage (red arrow).

Figure 16 – At left, the light switch in the dining area. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color at the switch indicating cool air leakage.

!


Figure 17 – At left, an outlet in the master bedroom. . At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color at the outlet indicating cool air leakage.

The joint where the wall meets the floor is also a source of air leakage as shown in Figure 18.

Figure 18 – At left, the baseboard in the master bedroom. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color at the baseboard indicating cool air leakage.

!


The fireplace is leaky due to a damper that is not airtight (Figure 19).

Figure 19 – At left, the fireplace. At right, an infrared image showing reddish and blue color indicating cool air leakage. The yellow glow in the center of the logset is the standing pilot light.

The bathroom fans in the house are leaky as demonstrated during the blower door test (Figure 20).

Figure 20 – The image at left shows a bath fan. The infrared image at right shows blue and reddish color indicating cool air leaking in from the attic space.

!


The windows in the house generally appear to be in good condition. There were only a few locations where air leakage around the window trim was apparent as shown in the following Figures.

Figure 21 - The photo at left shows a window. The infrared image at right shows a blue and reddish color at one corner of the window trim indicating cool air leaking in from outside.

Air can move through gaps around doors as shown in Figure 22 andFigure 23.

Figure 22 - The photo at left shows the front door. The infrared image at right shows a reddish and blue coloration at the gaps around the door indicating cool air leaking in from outside.

!


Figure 23 - The photo at left shows the attic door. The infrared image at right shows a reddish and blue coloration at the gaps around the door and most significantly at the bottom of the door indicating cool air leaking in from the attic (outside air).

Recommendations:

• Ductwork

All accessible joints and holes in ductwork should be sealed using mastic and/or aluminum tape made for duct sealing. Duct tape, contrary to its name, is not appropriate for sealing joints in ductwork. Because duct leaks are generally not visually obvious and in order to fully determine the effect of duct sealing efforts, the duct sealing should be performed while the duct system is pressurized with a duct blower fan. This allows for a quantitative measure of how leaky the ducts are and how well they have been sealed. We offer duct testing services if you are interested.

Cost Opinion:

Duct sealing: $250 to $500 when installed by a contractor. Duct pressure testing: $75 per hour.

• Recessed Lights

Recessed lights should be air sealed and insulated from above if possible. Cover the top of the existing light fixtures with an insulated box and use spray foam to air seal the box to the sheetrock. Insulation may now be placed over the sealed light fixture. Some of your recessed lights will be inaccessible from above in order to cover

!


them. If you choose to air seal these fixtures, you will need to remove the existing recessed light fixtures and replace them with airtight insulation safe fixtures called “IC” or “insulation contact” fixtures. The internet link provides one example of a “remodel fixture” that may be installed from the room without damaging the ceiling. http://www.lampsplus.com/products/Juno-6-inch-IC-Remodeling-Recessed-Light-Housing__41549.html! The following internet links indicate products for covering and air sealing an accessible recessed light fixture: http://www.amazon.com/Tenmat-FF130E-Recessed-Light-Cover/dp/B002XVPUAO

http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Light-Cover/dp/B0030CQWFM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 Cost Opinion:

Light fixtures - $20 to $40 each (materials)

Installation - $20 to $50 each depending on the contractor.

• Gaps and Cracks

Any joints, cracks, or holes should be filled with spray foam insulation or caulking. This would also include the gaps around window trim and baseboards. Caulking should be an interior / exterior grade material. One example is provided for your information: http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=11&SubcatID=3 Gaps around ductwork penetrations into floors, walls, or ceilings should be caulked or filled with spray foam insulation to eliminate air leaks. This can be done from the room side or attic side, whichever is easier to reach. Gaps at the baseboard may be sealed using caulking. Electric outlets, light switches and other utility boxes that are accessible from behind may be sealed with spray foam or caulking where the box meets the sheetrock and at all holes in the box including where wires enter. Work around electrical wiring and equipment should be performed by a professional and the power should be turned off prior to performing this sealing. Electric outlets and switches that are not accessible from behind may be air sealed by removing the cover plate and caulking where the electric box meets

!


the sheetrock. The tops of walls should be air sealed so that air does not move from the attic into the living space. This can be accomplished by applying spray foam insulation to the tops of the wall gaps where accessible from the attic space. You may have to temporarily move some existing insulation and flooring in order to access these gaps. Additionally, all holes for wiring or plumbing found during this effort should be sealed in the same manner. Cost Opinion: $500 to $750 when installed by a contractor.

• Bathroom Fans

The fans should be installed with ductwork that routes directly to the exhaust location with as few coils and bends as is possible. A damper should be installed to limit air flow into the house. The gap where the fan penetrates the wall or ceiling should be air sealed using caulking or spray foam insulation. And the fan should be covered with insulation. Cost Opinion:

$100 to $150 per fan when installed by a contractor.

E. Physical Observations

1. Exterior

The house is in good condition. The front of the house has a westerly exposure with minimal shading, whereby solar heat gain during the summer increases the need for cooling. The roof is a medium to dark in color that absorbs a large amount of solar radiation, which in turn heats up the attic. Recommendations: Window shades should be adjusted as necessary to provide shade during summer daylight hours and opened to allow solar heat gain during the winter.

!


2. Bulk water issues

The soil grade is generally sloped to promote bulk water flow away from the house.

3. Doors

The front door is wood with glass sidelight panels. It does not have a storm door. The door itself is in good condition but does not have functional weather-stripping. The rear of the house has three glass doors to the patio and they are in good condition. The garage person door is solid and well sealed against air movement to reduce the chances of carbon monoxide entering into the living space. Recommendations: Weather stripping on all doors should be checked and replaced as necessary specifically the front door. Cost Opinion: $25 to $50 each door depending on the type of weather stripping.

4. Windows The windows are in good condition with functioning locks and weather-

stripping. Refer to the Air Sealing section above for information regarding window air

leakage. While we did observe some windows with relatively minor air leakage, the windows appear to be generally well sealed.

Some windows have shades that should be lowered to reduce solar heat

gain during the summer and raised to increase solar heat gain during winter.

5. Basement The basement was not damp and there was no noticeable mold or bulk

water. The basement walls are concrete block and are sealed to reduce moisture transmission into the basement. The basement foundation walls are not insulated.

!


The rim joists in the basement are partially insulated but not air sealed (Figure 24).

Figure 24 – The red arrow indicates the rim joist area that should be fully insulated and air sealed all around the top of the foundation wall. Note the opening in the floor (yellow arrow) that should be sealed to reduce air movement up into the walls.

Recommendations:

• Rim Joist

The rim joist area should be air sealed and insulated using foam board and spray foam. The majority of the rim joist area may not accessible due to the basement finishing.

Cost Opinion:

$250 to $500 depending on the contractor.

6. Attic and Walls

The attic is accessible and is under insulated. There are multiple locations where insulation has been moved out of place leaving sheetrock exposed.

!


Figure 25 – This view of the attic floor insulation. The red arrow indicates a point where insulation has been removed exposing the sheetrock of the ceiling below.

Figure 26 – This view of the attic floor insulation. The red arrow indicates holes that should be air sealed with spray foam to eliminate air movement into the walls below. This entire location has almost no insulation.

!


Figure 27 – The red arrow indicates the top of a recessed light fixture. This particular fixture is “IC” or “insulation contact” rated. This means the fixture is safe to be in contact with insulation. The fixture should have been covered with insulation.

Attic – The attic floor is covered with approximately 9 inches of blown fiberglass insulation with an approximate R-value of 27. However, there are multiple locations where insulation has been moved and the thickness is down to 0 inches. First and second floor walls – Approximately 5.5 inches of fiberglass batt insulation was observed in first and second floor walls through outlets and light switches. Basement – The basement foundation walls are not insulated. Recommendations: The following website from Energy Star offers a wealth of user-friendly information about insulation and air sealing.

!


http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=diy.diy_index • Attic Insulation

Attic insulation should be at least an R-value of 38 to 50. The addition of 6 inches of blown cellulose or blown fiberglass insulation to the attic floor would bring the total R-value of the attic floor to 48. Any locations where the existing insulation is less than 9 inches should be filled with new insulation to bring the total R-value to 48. Insulation should be the final work done after any air sealing, ductwork, or recessed lighting repair is done. Cost Opinion:

$2300 to $3000 for blown cellulose or fiberglass throughout the attic when installed by a contractor.

7. Heating system

The sealed combustion heating units are gas fired forced air systems controlled by thermostats on each floor of the house. The heating systems are newer and in good condition. The attic unit is a high efficiency Lennox system. The basement unit is a 94.3 AFUE system (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). This is a high efficiency model. New models may have up to a 96% AFUE. The furnace on the third floor is a Lennox brand and the two units in the basement are Carrier models. I was not able to test the attic furnace, as the exhaust was located on the roof. Testing of the basement furnace revealed the following information: Model Number York P2URD16N07501A System size 80,000 BTU/hour input Spillage Test N/A Flue Draft (worst case depress.) N/A Flue Draft (steady state) N/A Carbon monoxide (steady state) 22 parts per million (air free) Efficiency (steady state) 88.9% Stack temperature (steady state) 94 OF

!


Spillage tests that the exhaust gasses from the boiler go up the flue pipe and outside rather than “spilling” into the house. If a heating system “spills” exhaust gas into the house, the system will need maintenance, repair, or possibly replacement. We test this as a safety measure to make sure harmful gasses including CO are not coming into the house. Flue Draft measures the pressure in the flue pipe leading from the heating system to the outside. In order for flue gas to exit the house through the flue, the pressure in the flue must be negative (under a slight vacuum). This is an additional test to make sure that the exhaust gasses are going outside and not entering the house. Carbon monoxide is tested for in the flue pipe and is an indicator of how efficiently the heating system is operating. CO is a byproduct of inefficient combustion and may indicate a malfunction of the system. Efficiency is a test of how well a heating system burns the fuel. The higher the efficiency, the better.

8. Water heating system

Two electric hot water storage tank heaters provide domestic hot water. The 80-gallon tanks are in good condition. Visible hot water piping was not insulated. The 80-gallon water heaters have some corrosion on the two pipe connections. The homeowner indicated concern with high electricity bills. It is quite likely that the use of two electric water heaters is a primary culprit causing the high electricity usage.

Figure 28 – Two pipe connections (red arrows) are showing signs of corrosion and should be replaced to avoid a water leak.

!


Water temperature at the basement sink was 134.6 OF.

Recommendations:

The water heaters should be replaced with a single power vented gas water heater. We recommend that your work with a professional plumber to properly size the water heater based on your family’s needs and water usage habits. One 80-gallon water heater whether gas or electric would typically provide more than enough hot water for a family of four. If you have additional demands for hot water such as whirlpool tubs, the water heating system should be increased accordingly. The water heating system should be set to a temperature of 120 OF to avoid scalding problems. All visible hot water piping and the first six (6) feet of cold water pipe leading to the hot water heater should be insulated. Repair the two pipe connections where corrosion is evident.

Cost Opinion: Power vented gas water heater: $1500 to $2500 depending on size and contractor. Water pipe insulation: $100 to $250 when installed by a contractor. Less expensive options are available to do-it-yourself. Access to hot water piping may be limited due to the basement finishing.

9. Cooling system

The central air conditioning system consists of two systems: • 4-ton (48,000 BTU/hour) Lennox model XC16-048-230-01 (17 SEER) • 3.5 ton (42,000 BTU/hour) York model E2FH042S06B (12 SEER) All units are in average condition. The units have SEER values as indicated (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio). The Lennox model is a higher efficiency unit while the York model is a low efficiency unit. The minimum SEER for new models is 13 and

!


high efficiency models range up to SEER of 21. Recommendations: While not necessary at the moment, you should consider replacing the 12 SEER unit with a higher efficiency model. SEER 13 is 30% more efficient than the previous minimum SEER of 10. The following internet link has information about replacing central air conditioning systems: http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12440

10. Lights and Appliances

Incandescent light bulbs give off 90% of the energy they use in the form of heat rather than light. Compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) generally use 10% of the energy of a similar incandescent light bulb. Appliances are in good condition. Refrigerators are the largest user of electricity in our homes with the exception of heating and cooling systems. The kitchen refrigerator is a SubZero model manufactured in October 2000. Based on my internet research, although this model is somewhat older, it appears to be relatively energy efficient. Clothes washers and dryers are also large users of electricity. Recommendations: • Lights

Replace all incandescent light bulbs with CFLs. Dimmable models are available if desired. People often times dislike the color of light given off by CFLs. CFL bulbs have a “color temperature” on the packaging or the bulb itself. This will be shown as “3000K” or “3000 Kelvins” which refers to the “whiteness” of the light. The lower the Kelvin value, the more yellow the light that more closely matches the traditional light given off by incandescent bulbs.

Home Depot is currently cooperating with PECO and is selling CFLs at a very low price. They are available in different wattages.

!


IV. Cost Opinion Summary The following table summarizes the cost opinions provided above. Please note that the cost opinions provided here are based on my experience and knowledge and are not estimates to perform any work. Proposals provided by a contractor may be outside the range indicated in this report. These work items are listed in order of importance from most important to least important in terms of safety and possible energy savings and an increase in comfort for you.

Work Item Cost Opinion

(low)

Cost Opinion (high)

Carbon monoxide detectors (each) $20 $80

Attic insulation $1,500 $3,000

Gas hot water heater $1,500 $2,500

Gap and crack sealing $500 $750

Recessed light sealing (per light fixture) $40 $90

Duct sealing $150 $250

Door weather stripping (per door) $25 $50

Rim joist air sealing/insulation $250 $500

Bath fans $100 $150

Water pipe insulation $100 $250

Total $4,185 $7,620

!


V. Conclusions

Based on my observations and testing results, your house is generally in good condition but does require some improvements as follows:

• The two electric water heaters should be considered for replacement with a single gas fired water heater;

• Blower door testing and infrared imaging indicated that the house is leaky; • The attic and basement duct systems should be tested for leaks and air sealed /

insulated where necessary; • The attic is under insulated and should have additional insulation installed; • The attic should be air sealed to reduce air flow into the living space; • Multiple recessed light fixtures and bath fans are not air sealed.

If implemented, the recommended improvements will save you energy and money. These improvements will also increase the value of the property, as the cost to operate the house will be reduced. As always, please contact me if you have any questions or need additional information. I offer the following contractors for your consideration if you want to implement any of the above recommendations. SPS Insulation Brian Snedeker http://www.spsinsulation.com/ 610 623 5421 Mark Group (insulation, air sealing) Dave Hopkins www.markgroup.com 215 334 5273

!


VI. Funding Opportunities Energy Works

Energy Works is a new program to help homeowners in Philadelphia, Montgomery, Bucks, Delaware, and Chester counties save money by saving energy in their homes. Homeowners who complete a Building Performance Institute (BPI) certified energy audit of their home and invest $1,000 or more on energy efficiency improvements will qualify for a $300 rebate on the audit. Keystone Help

A program known as Keystone Help is available and offers low interest loans to homeowners in Pennsylvania to make energy efficiency improvements. You can find information about this program at this website: (http://www.keystonehelp.com/index.php).

Energy Efficient Mortgages

An additional opportunity for energy efficient financing exists and is known as an Energy Efficient Mortgage (EEM) or Energy Improvement Mortgage (EIM). Both types of financing may be used for new houses or the refinance of a house. The benefit if these programs is that the savings predicted from energy efficient improvements is counted as income and allows a homeowner to get a larger mortgage and pay for energy efficient improvements as part of their regular mortgage payment. More information may be found at this website: (http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=bldrs_lenders_raters.energy_efficient_mortgage) Electricity Deregulation Please note that due to electricity deregulation in Pennsylvania, your electricity rates will increase significantly as of the beginning of 2011. You can switch electric generation suppliers to save money on your electric bill. You may find information at this website: http://www.papowerswitch.com/! I am working with Stream Energy, one of the approved generation suppliers and would appreciate you signing up for Stream Energy through my website. Currently, Stream Energy is the lowest price generator available for PECO and PPL Electric customers. http://www.lowryeco.net Tax Credits

Tax credits until the end of 2011 and utility rebate programs are available to assist you in making energy efficient improvements to your house. Tax credits may be used to help pay for many energy efficiency improvements including insulation, air sealing, heating/cooling systems, and windows, among other things. You can find more information at this website: (http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index)

!


Working with Contractors Working with contractors is often times necessary if you want improvements or repairs done to your house. As with anything else, there are good ones and not-so-good ones out there. We offer some tips to make your time working with a contractor far more enjoyable and less frustrating:

1. Check with family and friends to see if they had good experiences with contractors performing the type of work you need.

2. Contractors must be registered with the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania and must

have a contractor’s license number. Ask for it if they don’t offer it. You can check the PA Attorney General’s website to see if your potential contractor is registered. (http://www.attorneygeneral.gov/hiccon.aspx?id=4502)

3. Contractors must carry general liability insurance. You can ask them to add you as an “additional insured” so that should their insurance be canceled, you will be notified.

4. A contractor may not ask for more than 1/3 of the total contract value as a down-

payment (for contracts over $1,000 in value). Exceptions to this are the cost of special order items such as custom windows or cabinets.

5. Always have work performed using a written contract. Its not only the law, it will save you from problems in the future. The contract must define what will be done, how much it will cost, when work will start, when it will end, and when payments are due.

6. Check references and the Better Business Bureau (BBB). Any legitimate contractor will have references available for you to contact and will be in good standing at the local BBB.

7. Get at least three proposals or “bids”. These should be “free”. Of course there is nothing truly free, but a contractor should come talk with you and see what you want done in order to provide you a proposal.

8. All “extra work” must be approved before it is done. If a contractor comes to you after completing your project and says that certain things are extra, tell them to fully document the extra work and you will consider paying them for it. Extra work often times becomes necessary. A good contractor will communicate with you if they find something they think is extra work and thus cost you more money. If something extra is necessary, you can have anyone you want do the work not just the contractor currently on the job.

Lowry EcoSolutions offers home contracting consulting as an additional service to assist you in completing improvements to your house.

!


Company Information Lowry EcoSolutions (LE) is owned by Eric C. Lowry, P.E. Services offered by LE include home energy and efficiency audits, rain barrel and rain garden design and installation, waste audits and civil and environmental engineering. Eric Lowry is a Building Performance Institute (BPI) Certified Building Analyst and a Certified Home Energy Rater by the Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET). LE is a licensed contractor in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania (license no. PA063233). Eric Lowry is a licensed professional engineer in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia and has practiced as a professional engineer for twenty-two years. He earned a Bachelor of Science degree in Civil Engineering from The Penn State University (1988) and a Master of Science degree in Water Resources and Environmental Engineering from Villanova University (2005). LE is an independent service provider and we do not have any alliances with contractors. We take compensation only from our clients and our allegiance is to you. We offer recommendations regarding contractors based on the energy audit results. You are always free to take our recommendations or use a contractor of your own choosing. Either way, we receive compensation only from you, our client. LE is an accredited company by the Better Business Bureau. Mr. Lowry holds memberships in the following professional associations:

• Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET) • American Society of Civil Engineers • Association of Energy Engineers • Delaware Valley Green Building Council • Northeast Home Energy Rating System (HERS) Alliance • Sustainable Business Network

Date post:	27-Aug-2018
Category:	Documents
Upload:	lynhan
View:	216 times
Download:	0 times

109 Saint Pauls Road - Lowry EcoSolutions Report - Murray... · 109 Saint Pauls Road Ardmore, ......

Documents