surrounding this tiny thumb of land that just out into the largest of America’s Great Lakes. But once you make the picturesque ride up to Cheqaumegon Bay on the south shore of Lake Superior, you’d be wise to park the bike and enjoy some of the most glorious landscapes America has to offer. The Story Of The Apostles It’s called a “national lakefront,” but rest assured the Apostle Islands are a national park in every sense of the word. Administered and operated by the National Park Service, they are open to the public and heavily restricted in their usage. You can’t ride the Apostle Islands; you can’t even drive on them. This is pristine parkland — sandstone sea caves, pine trees, aban- doned fish camps and quarries, old-growth forests, BY JON LANGSTON B eer, cheese, and the Green Bay Packers. Dairy farms, sausages, and the Wisconsin Badgers. Happy Days and Laverne & Shirley. Capitol sit-ins. Harley-Davidson. Yep, Wisconsin is renowned for a lot of things. But who knew that Wisconsin was home to its own national park? The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is an archipelago of 21 islands on the west coast of Lake Superior, seven or so hours north of Milwaukee and about four hours east of the Twin Cities. Popular out- door activities in the area include camping, kayak- ing, golfing, and fishing. Being the Midwest, there is, of course, a healthy motorcycle-riding population 36 November/December 2011 n RoadBike n RoadBikeMag.com Apostle Islands: Wisco’s Best-Kept Secret Even on a dreary day, a Road King still looks sweet against an Apostle Islands backdrop.
Transcript
surrounding this tiny thumb of land that just out intothe largest of America’s Great Lakes. But once youmake the picturesque ride up to Cheqaumegon Bayon the south shore of Lake Superior, you’d be wise topark the bike and enjoy some of the most gloriouslandscapes America has to offer.
The Story Of The ApostlesIt’s called a “national lakefront,” but rest assured theApostle Islands are a national park in every sense ofthe word. Administered and operated by the NationalPark Service, they are open to the public and heavilyrestricted in their usage. You can’t ride the ApostleIslands; you can’t even drive on them. This is pristineparkland — sandstone sea caves, pine trees, aban-doned fish camps and quarries, old-growth forests,
BY JON LANGSTON
Beer, cheese, and the Green BayPackers. Dairy farms, sausages, andthe Wisconsin Badgers. HappyDays and Laverne & Shirley.Capitol sit-ins. Harley-Davidson.
Yep, Wisconsin is renowned for a lot of things. Butwho knew that Wisconsin was home to its ownnational park? The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is an
archipelago of 21 islands on the west coast of LakeSuperior, seven or so hours north of Milwaukee andabout four hours east of the Twin Cities. Popular out-door activities in the area include camping, kayak-ing, golfing, and fishing. Being the Midwest, thereis, of course, a healthy motorcycle-riding population
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Apostle Islands: Wisco’s Best-Kept Secret
Even on a drearyday, a Road Kingstill looks sweetagainst an ApostleIslands backdrop.
first to inhabit the islands, and although no one knows exactlyhow they got their moniker, it is believed that French furtraders named the islands the Apostles because, presumably,from their vantage point only 12 islands were visible. Theislands are composed mostly of red sandstone; in fact, many ofthe brownstone buildings in nearby metropolises, includingMilwaukee, Minneapolis, and Chicago, were actually made ofred sandstone drawn from Apostle Islands’ quarries in the 19thand early 20th century. United States Senator Gaylord Nelson of Wisconsin — a
staunch conservationist who was, incidentally, the founder ofEarth Day — sponsored the federal legislation signed byPresident Richard M. Nixon on September 26, 1970, establishingthe Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. The park includes 21 islands, a 12-mile strip of the mainland on Bayfield Peninsula,and approximately a quarter mile of Lake Superior adjacent toeach island. (Technically there are 22 islands in the archipelago,but the largest, Madeleine Island, was settled long ago, and whenthe National Lakeshore was established, it was easier and franklycheaper for the US government to leave Madeleine alone rather
and, with eight towers on six islands, the largest collection oflighthouses in any US national park. Visitors can paddle, sail, orpowerboat to any of the Apostles, and once there, campgroundsand hiking trails put you in the middle of nature’s majesty. The Apostle Islands are often called “the jewels of Lake
Superior.” To reach them requires a healthy dose of pioneerspirit, and because of that, they are nearly unspoiled. A naturelover’s paradise, most who visit speak of the quiet seclusion ofthe Apostles. There are no RVs and no gift shops, none of thetedium of many other tourist attractions in the US.The Apostle Islands are a result of the massive glaciers that
once covered North America. When the glaciers melted, theyleft behind the Great Lakes. Native American tribes were the
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Sandstone from the Apostles was used to build many big midwest cities.
The Apostle Islands' lighthouses are listed in the National Register ofHistoric Places.
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Greunke’s is likely the most famous of Bayfield’s land-marks. A red building in the center of town, motorcycles areoften found parked in its lot — if not in front of Morty’s Pubacross the street. Greunke’s (pronounced grunk-eez) is fes-tooned with ‘50s memorabilia, LP covers, and other nostalgicknickknacks; the inn and eatery boasts “the best breakfast intown,” and that’s probably true, although the Egg Toss BakeryCafé gives it a good run for its money. Now, Morty’s is certainly a fine, low-key joint for cool
refreshment and cheap eats — but I preferred the conversationat The Rum Line, an incongruously pirate-themed bar downSouth First Street. Its proprietors, Paul and Ellen, are avidmotorcyclists who offered excellent “locals-only” tips for rid-ing the region. Stop in and tell them RoadBike sent you, butwatch out for the jukebox; it’ll eat your quarters.
Downtown Bayfield is aquaint stroll from most anyaccommodation in town — andthat stroll is highly recommend-ed. Among its souvenir shops,local artisan outlets, andantique stores, you can find agreat cup of joe at Big WaterCafé. Keep strolling untillunchtime and make your wayto Maggie’s on ManypennyAvenue. This elaborately deco-rated restaurant has a diversemenu with something foreveryone, including the special-ty of the area, fried fish livers. Yes, I tried one. How wasit? Well, as I said, I tried one. And about those accommo-
dations: you can’t go wrongwith any of the bed and break-fasts in Bayfield. But if that’s
than relocate its few hundred residents, many of whom live on theisland year-round. Therefore, Madeleine Island is an Apostle, butit’s not part of the National Lakeshore.)Most of the Apostles are less than a mile long and a few
hundred yards wide. Some, such as Stockton and Outer Island,are large enough to support communities, like the one atLaPointe on Madeleine Island. Most, however, are smallenough to explore in a day, and most island visitors reach themvia the charming lakeside town of Bayfield, Wisconsin.
City By The BayTo get to Bayfield by motorcycle, a motorcyclist has about asmany options as the Midwest has scenic roads to ride — that isto say, plenty. My route from Milwaukee took me straight upthe ample gut of Wisconsin on US Highway 51, through idyl-lic Midwestern plains into green North Country forest. Now, Iwas short on time and took the most direct route, and mine wasa satisfying run; still, some riders I met chided me after the factfor not going west of Madison before turning my Road Kingnorth. Next time.Bayfield makes an excellent base of operations for your visit
to the Apostles. In addition to a nice selection of shops, restau-rants, and accommodations, it also features the offices of manyarea activities, including the Apostle Islands National Lakeshoreheadquarters and visitor’s center, a maritime museum, a marina,and a number of historic buildings. Bayfield boasts a year-roundpopulation of a little over 500, but that number booms to wellover 3,000 in the summer months. On the road leading into town,you’ll pass the elaborate Victorian that houses the RittenhouseInn (on Rittenhouse Avenue), the best-known, oldest bed andbreakfast in Bayfield. The Phillips family has run the place for aslong as anyone can remember, and the dining here is among thefinest in Bayfield. As for the guest rooms, each features a differ-ent theme, so whether you prefer a hot tub with a view of LakeSuperior or a Middle Eastern oasis replete with Persian rugs anda roaring fire, you can find it at the Rittenhouse.
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In reference to Lake Superior’s fickle nature, a local saying goes, “The lakeis the boss.”
Ashland's Ore Dock stands eightstories tall and stretches 1,800' intoLake Superior.
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town to reboot has to be the Deep Water Grill and South ShoreBrewery. Whether it’s the local favorite Nut Brown Ale, theeffervescent Weizen Eisbock, or the delicious American PaleAle, owner/brewmaster Bo Belanger has outfitted a welcomingbrewpub with a fine restaurant attached. And he brews a fine,fine product. Go ahead, ask me how I know.To get to the Apostle Islands from Ashland, head west out of
town on US Highway 2. After a couple of miles, turn right(north) onto Route 13. The next town you’ll roll through isWashburn, which contains a more workmanlike marina thanBayfield’s. The dock’s slips house Outdoor Allure’s CaptainCraig Putchat, an expatriate of Allentown, Pennsylvania, whoknows the waters in and around the Apostle Islands region aswell as the walleyes, bass, trout, and salmon that occupy them.
not your thing, then try the Winfield Inn; in addition to roomsat the florid hotel proper, the Winfield also rents several water-front condominiums at the Reiten Boatyard that are ideal forfamilies, groups, and extended stays.
Ashland/WashburnIn order to reach Bayfield, which sits at the tip of its namesakepeninsula, you’ll most likely roll through a couple of otherWisconsin towns, namely Ashland and Washburn. Ashland,which sits at the base of Chequamegon Bay, is probably thethird largest city in a region that the local weathermen havedubbed the Northland (Duluth, Wisconsin and Superior,Minnesota, are about 50 miles west). There are a few hotels, avibrant, vaguely industrial downtown area, and NorthlandCollege, a small liberal arts school that’s renowned for its eco-logical studies. But Ashland is mainly known for its collectionof a dozen or so historical murals that adorn the buildingsdowntown. These elaborate (and eerily life-like) murals tell thestory of Ashland, much of which centers around its massiveOre Dock, built in 1915 to transfer the iron ore mined in theUpper Peninsula of Michigan and northeast Wisconsin to thesteel-producing plants of the eastern Great Lakes. It’s said to bethe largest structure of its kind in the world. But I can’t imag-ine another structure of its particular kind; I’ve certainly neverseen a pier that size. The last ore-bearing train rode its rails in1965. Myriad ideas have been suggested for its use since then,including converting the Ore Dock to a public park.Unfortunately, its true ownership has been haggled over for solong that it’s now in disrepair. It will most likely have to be dis-mantled entirely.Ashland offers a plethora of options, but my favorite spot in
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The beer selection at South Shore Brewery will satisfy the most discerningpalates.
Paths to the Apostle Islands are as plentiful as the two-laners that criss-cross the Midwest
View, and Clam Lake (including County Road GG) as some ofthe best forest riding in the region. Also, remember TravelWisconsin’s Rustic Roads program, whose pamphlet detailsmore than 100 rural roads spanning some 560 miles through 54counties — many of which will provide you a scenic path up toand around the Apostle Islands area. During my visit, it was rainy — really, really rainy. Still, I
could get a clear sense that the roads of Bayfield and AshlandCounties were made for tooling and cruising. But don’t neglectto kick out the stand for a day or two and stay awhile; after all,America’s National Parks are some of this country’s greatestresources, and when it comes to scenery, splendor, and a sur-plus of activities, the comparatively small Apostle IslandsNational Lakeshore ranks right up there with the big boys. RB
On your right, just beyond the marina and the downtownWashburn strip, you’ll find Good Thyme Restaurant.I can’t impress upon you enough that Good Thyme was far
and away the finest restaurant I visited on my trip. From thestylish decor and delicious meal to the expansive wine andcocktail list and the attractive and knowledgeable staff, I just aswell could’ve been in a swank Tribeca bistro as a converted yel-low Victorian house on the shores of Lake Superior. Mary andRenee are running a top-notch operation here. Check out theawesome boat bar out in the yard! Even if you can’t stay forlunch or dinner, have Michael whip you up a dirty martini, andask Mary to tell you the hilarious story about the time hermother won a Sportster in a local raffle.
Back On The BikeOn to more important things — the riding! The Apostle Islandsarea is best suited for outdoor activities beyond the motorcycle,but getting here is half the fun. No matter if it’s in the longevenings of summer or the vibrant colors of fall, there are fewerplaces more glorious and pleasurable to ride than the Midwest. Now, this is Wisconsin, the birthplace of American motor-
cycling, so if you do a bit of research before you visit there’s noreason to take the interstate anywhere. To that end, get a copy ofa motorcycling map of the region called “Back on the Bike,”which outlines specific routes in the Northland that are ripe forriding, and you’ll find that the local riders prefer the County andForest Roads. In fact, the folks I spoke with specifically recom-mended Forest Road 236, which bisects the Bayfield Peninsula,as one of the best, albeit shortest, overall rides in the area. Southof Ashland, they touted the areas around Cable, Mason, Grand
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WISCONSIN WISDOMApostle Islands National Lakeshore VisitorCenter715/779-3397www.Home.NPS.gov/ApIs
Ashland Chamber of Commerce800/284-9484www.VisitAshland.com
“Back on the Bike” Motorcycling Map800/284-9484www.TravelBayfieldCounty.com
