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Care labelling of apparels
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CARE LABELING Developing andEvaluating Care Labels
Care labels are required by the Care LabelRegulation on most textile apparel products andare included on many textile furnishing products.Many companies, such as carpet and furnituremanufacturers, include care labels, tags, orinstructions with their products even though suchinformation is not required. These companiesprovide this service because consumers have
become so accustomed to seeing this informationfor many products, that they have begun toexpect it on all textile products.
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Apparels and textiles are soiled during their normal use. Fromeconomic point of view these items must be cleaned andrefurbished for reuse without substantially altering their functionaland aesthetic properties. Consumers should be provided theknowledge of various processing conditions for care of the apparels.This is the joint responsibility of the apparel industry and the textilecare industry.
According to Federal Trade Commissions (FTC) rule 16 CFK 423,apparels should have permanent care label that providesinformation about their regular care. The purpose of the rule is togive the consumers accurate care information to extend the usefullife of the apparel. All the textile wearing apparels used to cover orprotect the body and all piece goods sold for making home-sewnapparels are covered apart from shoes, belts, hats, neckties,nonwoven, one-time garments.
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Care labels should not be considered as a guarantee or a qualitymark of the product. Manufacturers and importers of textiles,apparel and piece goods (sold to consumers for making wearingapparel); and any organisation that controls the manufacturing orimport of textile wearing apparel or piece goods for making wearing
apparel are covered in this rule.According to ASTM D 3136-96, a care label is a label or other affixedinstructions that report how a product should be refurbished. FTCdefines care label means a permanent label or tag, containingregular care information and instruction, that is attached or affixed
in some manner that will not become separated from the productand will remain legible during the useful life of the product .
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Care Instruction of Category
The various textile items which we handle or wearnormally have a fairly long useful life provided care is takenby not exposing them to adverse conditions.
We shall first see the general weaknesses and the
conditions which are harmful to most of the textilematerials. In general, all textile materials are adverselyaffected by sunlight, dampness, high temperature,perspiration, and wear and tear. We shall briefly see howand why textile materials are adversly affected by theseinfluences.
Sun light: Exposure of textile materials to sunlight sets upchemical changes which always reduce the strength anddurability of the fibres. Further, in many cases the colour of the textiles fade to a large extent also.
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Dampness : Bacteria, mildew and other micro-organisms whichattack the textile materials remain inactive so long as the materialsare sufficiently dry. in damp conditions these organisms become
active and cause deterioration of textile items. Hence, textile itemsshould not be stored in damp conditions. High Temperature: Exposing to high temperature may result in
damage to textile items either form decomposition of the fibresubstance or due to actuation of harmful substance present in thefabric. For example, presence of a weak acid like vinegar on cotton
textiles may not affect the fabric at ordinary temperature. However,if the fabric is ironed at very high temperature, this acid will weakenthe fabric considerably.
Perspiration: This can be harmful to most of the textile materials,because it can be both acidic and alkaline. Most textile materials areadversely affected either by acid or alkali. For example, cellulosicfibres like cotton, linen, viscose and cuprammonium rayons are esilydeteriorated by acids while protein fibres like wool and silk areadversely affected by alkalis.
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Wear and Tear: The abrasion, rubbing andflexing to which the textile materials aesubjected to, have the effect of breaking thefibres or displacing them in the yarn so thatthe textile materials are weakened andeventually they are torn.
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Different processes covered in carelabelling
a. Laundering: A process intended to remove soil or stains by washing with an aqueous detergentsolution (and possibly bleach) and normally including subsequent rinsing, extracting and drying.
b. Chlorine bleach: A process carried out in an aqueous medium before, during or after washingprocesses, requiring the use of chlorine based bleaching agent for the purpose of removing stainsand/or improving whiteness.
c. Non-chlorine bleach: A bleach that does not release the hypochlorite ion in solution, for example
sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, etc.d. Dry-cleaning: A process for cleaning textile articles by means of organic solvents (eg, petroleum,perchlorethylene, fluorocarbon). This process consists of cleaning, rinsing, spinning and drying.
e. Tumble drying: A process carried out on a textile article after washing, with the intention of removing residual water by treatment with hot air in a rotating drum.
f. Ironing: A method of pressing using a heated hand iron sometimes together with moisture orsteam, and a gliding motion.
g. Pressing: A process of smoothing and shaping by heat and pressure, with or without the presenceof steam.
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Apart from the above processes, the other terminologies used incare labelling are:
a. Detergent: A cleaning agent containing one or more surfactantsas the active ingredient(s).
b. Soap: A cleaning agent usually consisting of sodium or potassiumsalts of fatty acids.
c. Bleach (in care of textiles): A product for brightening and aidingthe removal of soils and stains from textile materials by oxidationthat is inclusive of both chlorine and non-chlorine products.
d. Cleaning agent: A chemical compound or formulation severalcompounds which loosens, disperses, dissolves, or emulsifies soil tofacilitate removal by mechanical action.
e. Consumer care: Cleaning and maintenance procedures ascustomarily undertaken by the ultimate user.
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f. Professional care: Cleaning and maintenanceprocedures requiring the services of a person speciallytrained or skilled in their use.
g. Refurbish: To brighten or refresh up and restore towearability or use by cleaning such as dry-cleaning,laundering, or steam cleaning.
h. Stain removal: A cleaning procedure for localisedareas with cleaning agents and mechanical actionspecific to the removal of foreign substances present.
i. Solvent relative humidity: The humidity of air overdry-cleaning bath and in equilibrium with the solventand small amount of water.
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Specific Cleaning, Drying and StorageRequirements of Textiles Made of
Various Fibres: Cottons : It can be washed in hot water with strong
detergent and can be pressed with hot iron. As cottontextiles wrinkle easily, they should be treated withstarch prior to ironing. They should be stored in drycondition only and not in damp condition, to avoidmildew attack.
Wools: Wool should be washed in luke warm waterwith a mild neutral sop or mild synthetic detergent. Itshould be dried slowly away from heat. Wool should bepreferably ironed on wrong side with a steam iron ordamp cloth. Dry cleaning is preferred to washing. Woolfabrics are to be protected against moths and carpet
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Silks: Silk should be washed only if labeled as'washable'. Otherwise it should be dry cleaned.Washing is done by hand with lukewarm water withmild soap or neutral detergent. Ironing is done whiledamp on the wrong side of fabric. Silks stained byperspiration should be cleaned at once, sinceperspiration weakens the fabric. Chlorine bleach is tobe avoided. Exposure to sun light is also to be avoided.Silk fabrics are to be protected against moths andcarpet beetles.
Rayons: If the product is labeled washable, it should bewashed by using mild luke warm soap or detergent
solution. The fabric is squeezed gently and rinsed inluke warm water. The article shoukd neither be wrungnor twisted. Ironing should be done at moderatetemperature.
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Nylon, Acrylic and Polyester: These fabricscan be machine washed, tumble dried at lowtemperature. Fabric softener may be added atfinal rinse. Ironing can be done at moderatelylow temperatue. Frequent machine wash maylead to pilling of polyester fabrics. White nylon
fabrics tend to become yellow or grey.Chlorine bleach should not be used in suchcases.
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Requirements of care labels
Various care labelling systems are followed worldwide. Whatever thesystem may be it should follow the following principles:
The care labels should not be visible from outside and should notbe inconvenient to the wearer.
They should be easily visible and not hidden which would otherwiselead to difficulties in conveying information.
The symbols and letters on the labels shall be legible throughoutuseful life of garment.
The labels for a particular style should be positioned at one place inall pieces.
If not readily seen due to packaging, care information must berepeated on the outside of the package or on a hangtag attached tothe product.
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All the symbols used in the care labelling system should be placeddirectly on the article or on a label which shall be affixed in apermanent manner to the article.
Care labels should be made of suitable material with resistance to
the care treatment indicated in the label at least equal to that of thearticle on which they are placed. Label and symbols should be large enough so that they are easily
visible and readable and they denote the maximum permissibletreatment for an apparel.
The consumers should easily understand the symbols irrespective of the language.
The care instruction symbols are applicable to whole of the garmentincluding trimmings, zippers, linings, buttons, etc unless otherwisementioned by separate labels.
The care symbols selected should give instructions for the most
severe process or treatment the garment can withstand while beingmaintained in a serviceable condition without causing a significantloss of its properties.
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f d d l d
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Care of Woven, Knitted and FeltedFabrics:
Care of fabric also depends upon its construction.Woven, knitted and felted fabrics need differenttreatments. Fabrics, firmly woven in a simple weave, isusually easily laundered unless fibre or finish prevents
it. Satin weave fabric should not be washed or driedwith anything that might catch on the long float yarn.Knitted fabric usually resists wrinkling but the loop onthe long float yarn. Knitted fabric usually resistswrinkling but the loop formation can be distorted in
cleaning unless proper care is given.. Knitted fabricsmay preferably be hand washed and should not behung on the hanger to dry as the weight of damp clothmay result in permanent elongation of loop structure
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Most of the lace garments do better if drycleaned or hand washed, since the intricatedesign structure may be damaged by agitationduring machine washing. While washing corduroyor velveteen garments, they should be separatedfrom other items of clothing to avoid lintaccumulation. Non-woven fabrics such as felts
are not strongly constructed and may bepermanently damaged if improperly cleaned.True felts are made of wool fibres, which shrinkwhen washed and should be dry cleaned only.Those held by adhesive substance maydisintegrate if cleaning treatement dissolves theadhesive and hence the label instruction of cleaning must be followed strictly.
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Before making actual purchase of textileproduct, the consumer should consider thekind of care the product will require. If anarticle does not have a right kind of cleaningor care, it may lose its usefulness long beforethe owner has received satisfactory monetary
value.
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At present, there is no universal symbol system. TheASTM symbols are accepted in NAFTA countries.ISO/GINETEX symbols are accepted in most of Europeand Asia, and Japan has their own symbol system.Negotiations are under way to harmonise the twomajor systems; ASTM and GINETEX, into a trulyuniversal symbol system for care procedures. Amongthe various systems the major systems, which arefollowed worldwide are listed below:
a. International Care Labelling System (GINETEX)b. ASTM Care Labelling Systemc. British Care Labelling System
d. Japanese Care Labelling Systeme. Canadian Care Labelling Systemf. Indian Care Labelling System
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a International Care Labelling System: International Symposium
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a. International Care Labelling System: International Symposiumfor care labelling was established in 1963 in Paris. It was replaced byInternational Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX) in1975. The symbols used in GINETEX system represent that thegarment can withstand the process and a cross indicates theprocess is not possible for the garment. The following five symbolsare used:
The number inside the washtub indicates the maximum permissibletemperature of water in degree centigrade. A hand in the washtubindicates only hand wash is possible. An underline beneath the
washtub indicates a milder treatment is in order. Numbers abovethe washtub indicate different washing programmes and these arenot always identical with those actually used in washing machines.There may be some additional indications which are not followed
everywhere.
CL inside the triangle indicates that chlorine bleaching is possible.The dots (1, 2 or 3) inside the iron symbol indicate the maximumtemperature at which ironing can be done. The letters (A, P or F)inside the circle indicate the dry-cleaning process with the solventto be used. In addition, they give information to consumers aboutthe possibility of using coin-operated dry-cleaning. A circle inside a
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b. Japanese Care Labelling System: JapaneseCare Labelling System uses basic symbols thatare different from other systems of carelabelling.
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Washing InstructionsSymbol Instructions
Machine wash at 95oC or less water temperature.
Hand wash in water temperature of 30oC or less
Do not wash (not washable).
JAPANESE CARE LABELLING SYSTEM
Bleaching Instructions
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Bleaching InstructionsSymbol Instructions
Use chlorine bleach.
Do not use chlorine bleach
Ironing InstructionsSymbol Instructions
May be ironed directly at 180-210oC
May be ironed directly at 140-160oC
May be ironed directly at 80-120oC
Do not iron
May be ironed directly at 180-210oC if a cloth is placedbetween iron and garment.
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Dry-cleaning Instructions
Symbol InstructionsAny dry-cleaning agent can be used.
Only petroleum-based agent can be used.
Do not dry-clean.
Wringing InstructionsSymbol Instructions
Wring softly by hand or spin dry by machine quickly.
Do not wring by hand.
Drying InstructionsSymbol Instructions
Hang dry.
Hang dry in shade.
Lay flat to dry.
Lay flat to dry in shade.
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.British Care Labelling System
c. British Care Labelling System: The British Care Labelling System usesgraphic symbols to provide information on care labels.
The five basic symbols are described below:Symbol Instructions
Washtub indicates washing.Triangle indicates bleaching.Iron indicates ironing.Circle indicates dry-cleaning.Square indicates drying.Cross superimposed on any of the preceding
five symbols indicates that such a treatment or process should beused.
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Canadian Care Labelling System d. Canadian Care Labelling System: Canadian
Care Labelling System consists of five basicsymbols that are illustrated in three conventionaltraffic light colours.
If any message is not conveyed by the carelabelling symbols, words in English and Frenchmay be used. The five symbols must appear in
the following order on the care labels: washing,bleaching, drying, ironing, and dry-cleaning.
The symbols are described in the following table:
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Washing Instructions
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Symbol Process
Green washtub- Machine wash in hot
water (not exceeding 70oC).Green washtub- Machine wash in warm
water (not exceeding 50oC).
Orange washtub- Machine wash in
warm water (not exceeding 50oC with
reduced agitation).
Orange washtub- Machine wash in
lukewarm water (not exceeding 40oC
with reduced agitation).
Orange washtub - hand wash in
lukewarm water (not exceeding 40oC).
Red washtub - Do not wash..
Washing Instructions
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Bleaching Instructions
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Symbol Process
Orange triangle - Use chlorine bleach.
Red triangle - Do not use chlorine bleach.
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Drying Instructions
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SymbolProcess
Green square - Tumble dry at medium to high
temperature and remove article from machine as
soon as it is dry. Avoid over-drying.
Orange square - Tumble dry at low temperature and
remove article from machine as soon as it is dry.
Avoid over-drying.
Green square - Hang to dry after removing excess
water.
Green square- Drip dry-hang soaking wet.
Orange square- Dry on flat surface after extracting
excess water.
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Ironing Instructions
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Symbol Process
or
Green iron- Iron at a high temperature (not
exceeding 200oC). Recommended for cotton and
linen.
or
Orange iron- Iron at a medium temperature (not
exceeding 150oC). Recommended for nylon and
polyester.
or Orange iron- Iron at a low temperature (not
exceeding 110oC). Recommended for acrylic.
Red iron- Do not iron or press.
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Dry-cleaning Instructions
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Symbol Process
Green circle- Dry-clean.
Orange circle- Dry-clean, tumble at
low temperature.
Red circle- Do not dry-clean.
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ASTM Care Labelling System e. ASTM Care Labelling System : In the ASTM
System there are five basic symbols: washtub,triangle, square, iron and circle indicating theprocess of washing, bleaching, drying, ironing orpressing and dry-cleaning respectively. Theprohibitive symbol X may be used only whenevidence can be provided that the care procedureon which it is superimposed would adversely
change the dimensions, hand, appearance, orperformance of the textile.
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ASTM CARE SYMBOLS
DRYCLEAN
Dryclean - Normal Cycle Any Solvent Any Solvent except Trichlorethylene Petroleum Solvent
Do Not DrycleanDryclean - Additional Instructions Short Cycle Reduced Moisture Low Heat
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Machine Wash CyclesWASH Normal Permanent Press Delicate/Gentle
Water Temperatures(Maximum) (200F)/95c
160F/70C
140F/60C
120F/50C
105F/40C
65-85F/30C
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Iron - Dry or Steam
IRON
200C (390F) High 150C (300F) Medium
110C (230F) Low
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BLEACH
Bleach
Any Bleach When Needed Only Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed
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Tumble Heat Settings
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DRY
NormalPermanent PressDelicate/ Gentle
Line Dry/ Hang to DryDrip DryDry Flat
Any HeatHighMedium
LowNo Heat/Air
Tumble Dry Cycles
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Warning Symbols
Warning Symbols for Laundering No Steam Do Not Bleach Do Not Wash Do Not Dry (used with Do Not Wash)More Warning Symbols Do Not Wring In The Shade (added to line dry, drip dry or flat dry) Do Not Iron Do Not Tumble Dry
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Indian Care Labelling System f. Indian Care Labelling System: The symbols used in Indian
care labelling system are same as that of International carelabelling system. The five basic symbols are washtub,triangle, iron, circle, circle inside a square for the processesof washing, bleaching, ironing, dry-cleaning, and tumbledrying processes respectively. The cross symbolsuperimposed on any of the basic symbols indicates thetreatment is not permitted. In addition to the above fivesymbols a bar under the washtub or circle indicates thatthe treatment should be milder than that indicated by the
same symbol without a bar, and a broken bar under thewashtub indicates a very mild washing process at 400oC.
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Conclusion For consumers care symbols make sense when they can understand and follow the
instructions. Symbols should provide the same information to everyone withoutlanguage barriers. Use of symbols allow for smaller and more comfortable carelabels. Smaller labels also cost less and this could translate into consumer savings.The symbols are easy to understand with few basic symbols. For manufacturerscare symbols make even more sense.
When harmonised with other countries, symbols will allow participation in a globalmarketplace where symbols will clearly communicate the same information in allcountries. Smaller labels cost less to buy or manufacture and also cost less toinventory. Eliminating the need for different labels for different countries canfurther reduce total inventory. So all the manufacturers should attach care labellinginstructions to the garment for the benefit of the consumers and to keep theirbrands at a higher position.
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Due to globalisation and liberalisation processesit becomes more relevant for the garmentmanufactures to use care labelling systems in theapparel. It is also very much essential for thegarment manufacturers to make awarenesscampaign regarding the utility of care labels forthe consumers. However while applying the carelabels it is very important for the garment
manufacturers to understand the comfort criteriaof care labels.