5kg DMT EXTRACTION AND PURIFICATION Critical Switch

Here I will be outlining the extraction for

5000grams of Mimosa Hostilis root bark. One of the steps along the way will produce what I call jungle DMT (seems to contain another active ingrediant

which gives the DMT a frightening dark side, most do not prefer it in this form. May contain b-

carbolines but not sure.) Then after a purification wash you will be left with almost pure nn-dmt (much smoother and enjoyable than the “jungle” DMT) I’ll also talk about how to smoke it in a smooth and

effective way.

BE PREPAIRED TO WORK YER DAMN ASS OFF!

#1 Get the bark

-10X500g MIMOSA HOSTILIS-

#2 Break it all into 3-5cm chunks.

-5kg MHRB Broken into 3-5 cm lengths-

During this step you need leather work gloves

or you’ll wear the skin right off your hands. This

literally takes hours and hours to do. If you can

find a better way to do this, then please make it

common knowledge; its pure hell.

#3 Powder the bark in a blender.

A B A- Good powerful blender to smash the bar to

powder. The plactic ones are carp; don’t usem them.

B- This is what the bark looks like powdered in the blender for a few minutes.

I generally fill the blender up to just under a

third of the volumn and smash it on high for a few

minutes. If you want to do this quickly then you

need to wear a dust mask. They’re like a buck at a

hardware store and will stop that purple dust from

going down your throat annd nose.

#4 Put all 5000g of powdered bark into large wine

fermenting bucket.

#5 Make a batch of acidified water in another bucket.

-Acidified water in bathtub of hot water-

Get wine buckets that have a measurement scale on

the side. Fill the bucket with water that is as hot

as your hot tap will make it. Some use distilled

water, but in a large extraction it is not

practical, and neither would be heating this amount

of water. (besides it works fine) Fill the bucket

to 15L. Now you add 15-20 small drops of Muriatic

acid. The water in this bucket looks redish just

because there was still some powder leftover in it

from breaking up the bark. Normally it looks clear.

-Muriatic acid from hardware store.

#6 Pour the acidified water onto the bark.

-Bark soaking in acidified water in tub with hot

water in it.- After you have poured the water sitr it up every

five minutes with a long plastic spoon like this

one from a wine making store. The bucket is in a

tub of hot water to keep it warm.

#7 Strain the first batch of acidified water out of bark.

I did this with 2 stainless steel salad bowls and a

colander made of the same.

First you put the bark into the colander.

-Note the wad bark is the size of a softball-

Next you put one salad bowl under the colander and

one on top of the bark.

Next you step on the top bowl and squeeze as much acid solution out is as humanly possible. Don’t pust too hard until the third acid soak, you’ll

have an aneurism. But on the third soak you need to pull up on the bottom bowl. Pull hard as hell and get all that solution! I put the strained solution into another bucket. You repeat this step two more times. The acid solution is put into carboys. It will take two of them to hold all the acid water

and leave enough room for a base solution.

#8 Once the acid solution is in the two carboys let it sit in a cool place for a day or two so all the crap settles to the bottom. You can them siphon out

the good liquid back into the buckets, being careful not to vacuum up any of the sludge. You will have to pour the last little bit though.

-Carboy with funnel for pouring from bucket-

#9 Rinse the leftover sludge out of the carboys and pour the acid solution back in. Put an even amount

into each.

#10 Basification. I suck and forgot to take pics of this part. You simply mix sodium Hydroxide into

water. I used almost half a bottle this size in I think 15L of warm water. Next time I will weight the exact amounts. Basically I put about 112grams of it into about 7 litres of water. NOTE: You will not need nearly all the NaOH & water solution to

basify.

-Sodium Hydroxide-

I poured in a cup of basified water at a time into the the carboy (do one at a time) Each time I pour some of the base solution in I stir it really well

with the stick end of the long spoon which is polyethelyne. Once the solution is black, I pour in

two more cups for good measure and stir.

-This is a carboy just after basification-

#11 Pulling the DMT from basified solution with

Non-polar solvent.

-Lab Grade Xylene 4L-

If you want the “jungle DMT”, then you will have to

use xylene (lab grade or distilled) or similar DCM.

If not, then naptha, toluol or any other non-polar

solvent that is either free of contaminants or has

been distilled will work fine, though it may

achieve smaller yields.

You will be performing three (or four if your obsessive) solvent extractions on each basified carboy. Each extraction will require 1000ml of

solvent. I know it’s a lot but no worries, you get most of it back during distillation. Pour 1000ml of solvent into each carboy (I do them both at once here) the solvent will float on top. Now take the carboy and put it on some cardboard (actually

always have something like that under it if you are on a hard floor; breaking one of these is expensive and would be an absolute disaster.) Now you take the carboy and tilt it and swirl it around and shake it back and fourth enough to create a

whirlpool effect. Then let it sit and do the other one. I swirl them every 5 minutes for an hour. Once

this is done you need to siphon base solution out from under the solvent. Care is taken not to get

any of the solvent with the siphon.

-Siphoning base solution from under solvent-

Now store the solvent that is left and any small amount of basified solution. The will be a lot of emulsion and it’s a pain in the ass to separate. For now just store the solvent and emulsion in a

flask and as quick as you can get the solvent layer off the other carboy. You do this two more times

and flask and bottle up all the solvent and emulsion layers.

-A couple 2000ml flasks and various others full of

solvent emulsion and base solution-

#12 Seperating the solvent from the emulsion is a pain in the ass. I sit the flasks in hot water for

a while then actually pour off as much of the solvent as I can and add a few spoons full of salt.

Basically even pouring it from flask to flask breaks it down. Here I managed to retrieve just

under the 6000ml I put into it the was maybe 250ml of emulsion that was to tough to work with so I

just put it aside for now.

-Solvent with Emulsion +2000ml-

-Clean solvent is poured off-

-All the emulsion-

Once the emulsion was down to only 250ml+- the

clean solvent was put into proper flasks.

-All the extracted solvent approx 5750ml-

#13 Sodium Carbonate and water washes. First we

will wash with NaCl and water, then just x2 just as in other teks.

A B

A. This is Sodium Carbonate for adjusting pool PH.

B. This is how much I used for washing 2000ml of solvent.

-150ml of H2O with NaCl used for 2000ml solvent-

I literally just pour the water in stopper the flask and shake the hell out of it for 5-7min.

-Water\sodium carb Sinks to bottom after shaking-

Next I suck the water layer from the bottom with a turkey baster that has a polyethylene tube

attached to the end.

-Baster with polyethylene water tubing is great for pulling the water layer from the bottom of a

flask-

If you hold the flask on an angle you can be much more accurate. I Keep pulling in liquid until I have gotten some of the solvent in the tube as to be sure that there is no water layer left at all. Keep the water layer you pull as it will have a fair bit of solvent in it too. You will also

notice that once you have ran a batch of solvent through a wash it will be foggy.

-Flask is foggy from washing-

Once you have washed all your solvent, take the

water layer and put it in a sep funnel to get the solvent back.

#14 Distillation of the solvents is definitely a step you want to be sober for. Here we will be taking batches of 800ml of solvent and stilling

it down to about 150ml. I have been told that this may be partly

responsible for creating beta carbolines. A

friend who used a reflux condenser of his xylene

extraction told me he thinks the xylene had

pulled other alkaloids from the bark that are

converted into B-carbolines of some sort. Either

way your DMT yield will not be affected.

The still I used is a homemade copper still that is welded with copperbond (like a epoxy ie no

real welding needed) It can be made for cheap and only takes a few hours.

-Still with #9 1 hole rubber stopper-

-Small tube on left is solvent tube/ water input

on right-

-Water from tap going to cool still-

-Flask with 800ml solvent ready to rip-

-Beaker ready to catch distilled solvent-

-Still ready to go/water running into bottom out

top-

-Solvent boiling-

If you are seeing this! IMMEDIATELY TURN OFF THE

HEAT AND STAND THE FUCK BACK! If you want to boil down a lot of solvent really

you should use boiling chips. I don’t bother but

I’ll never fill a flask up as much as I did this

one again. No more then 800ml in a 1000ml flask.

Also putting a thick plate bottomed pot under the

flask IS NOT AN OPTION; YOU NEED IT THERE TO

DISTRIBUTE THE HEAT!

The solvent coming out the bottom of the still

will tend to be a little foggy at first. It will

be totally clear in a few minuter. The solvent

you still down will get darker. Looks like an

amber beer at the end.

DMT TEK 2nd half

#15 Evaporating the stilled solvent is a terrible thing. Do this part away from where you have to

breathe cause the fumes are toxic and disgusting. I put the solvent in a baking dish I had that is fairly flat. I then cover it with a women’s nylon (lets air pass through readily) and put a fan on it when possible and let it evaporate until it

solidifies; which may require spreading it around with a putty knife.

-All 850ml of stilled solvent-

-Solvent with nylon covering it for cleanliness-

The oil will evaporate to leave a yellowish oil.

This batch took a few days to get to this point. I know it looks like the 850ml of solvent, but

the volume has gone down a lot and the consistency is that of honey.

This is the exact same batch as above just the

oil has pooled into the corner and now looks like a repulsive puddle of motor oil.

#16 Turning the oil into a crystal is easy to do but takes some time. I literally spread it out onto mirrors. To do this I use a small putty

knife that bends easily. Better yet would be an artist’s pallet knife. Anyway, I had to use

several mirrors and this took two batches before all the oil had solidified.

-DMT oil spread out onto a mirror-

As the oil crystallizes it turns a yellowish

color and goes from translucent to opaque. Notice the areas where the oils is in globs or just thicker; once the thinner parts start to go

opaque, then re-spread the oil so it as thin and even as possible.

-Not ready to be scraped yet-

If the DMT oils out when scraped then re-spread

it again and put a fan on it.

DMT ready to be scraped.

I got these mirrors from Ikea; guess there is a reason for the shit-eating bastards at Ikea to

exist.

This picture is crap, but the DMT should not oil out when scraped up. You may need to leave the mirrors out for four hours or more. This was after about three hours with a fan on them.

-All the DMT after scraping. It is quite dirty at

this point-

-DMT before re crystallization came out to 37.3

grams-

#17 Recrystalization is needed her for a few reasons. You can smoke the DMT as is but it will be a little worse tasting and the actual high is not as smooth. I put all the DMT into a flash and wash it with a nonpolar solvent until all that is

left is a puddle of dark red.

-DMT is placed into 2000ml flask for solvent wash

(recrystalization)-

Dmt submersed in solvent

Once the solvent has been added I swish it around

until the DMT has turned into a translucent red

liquid.

-Dmt pretty much dissolved. What hasn’t dissolved

will be caught on next wash-

You now decant off the solvent and evaporate it

or freeze separate it. Freeze precipitating will

get a more pure product and this is what I will

illustrate.

-Solvent decanted and ready for freezer-

JUNGLE DMT

Now if you want the weird Dmt the stuff you see in the beaker above will crystallize and look maroon. This product is the jungle DMT and I

advise you to take caution if you decide to try it. It wort work without using xylene or DCM as a starting solvent. The washes must then be done

with heptane or naptha.

-Jungle DMT after it crystallizes-

Freeze precipitation is very easy (almost impossible with xylene). Here I used naptha

(distilled camping fuel). It took a few different containers to fit all the solvent. I used a 1L pickle jar and a bunch of smaller mason jars. Once they are in the freezer they will go foggy at first and then after a few more hours there will be all kinds of DMT crystals all over the

glass.

-1L pickle jar after freeze precipitation for

about 3 hours. This jar alone yielded 10.4 grams-

You simply pour out the solvent and let the

crystals dry out for an hour or so.

-One of the smaller jars with solvent poured out.

DMT is nice and white-

Now you scrape out all the crystals with a butter

knife and chop it up with a razor on a mirror so

it cad totally dry off.

-8.4 grams of freshly dried and scraped snow

white DMT-

This particular batch yielded just over 25 grams of the purified DMT.

That is basically it. Get as much of the DMT out of the solvent through freeze precipitation and then store the solvent to use inn your next

freeze seperation or evaporate it and do a mini recrystalization to ensure its pure. If you use

naptha as you initial solvent the entire extraction will be easier and more pleasant as xylene is a terrible chemical to deal with.

Though you will not be able to make the jungle DMT and your yields will generally be smaller.