A spa for the soul. Now, take a moment . F 12 AAA Going Places | AAA.com Immerse yourself in the natural miracle of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. From Graceland to the Grand Ole Opry, from Beale Street to Dollywood, Tennessee is a state defined by songs and the singers who sing them. It’s really no surprise, then, that Mother Nature’s feathered crooners—and their two- legged fans—are flocking to the Volunteer State in droves. In fact, Tennessee is gaining recognition nationwide as a premier birding destination. “Really, Tennessee is one of the birding hot spots in the United States,” says Virginia Reynolds, president of the Tennessee Ornitho- logical Society. “We’ve got the three Grand Divisions—the Mississippi floodplain in the west, the Cumberland Plateau in the central part of the state and the Appalachian moun- tains in the east—so birders have the oppor- tunity to travel the whole length of the state and see very different kinds of birds.” All told, Tennessee has seven distinct areas identified as globally important bird areas by the American Bird Conservancy. At the top of Tennessee’s birding destina- tions is Reelfoot Lake. Located in the state’s northwest corner, the 25,000-acre lake is a favorite wintering spot for hundreds of Ameri- can bald eagles. Birders Flocking to Tennessee B Y A MY S TEVENS Come see the Parad i e B Y S ALLY M OE Peregrine falcon O therwise, you might miss the ear-caressing music of birdsong, wind and water. Next...get on a mountain bike or set off on foot with a hiking stick—Great Smoky Mountains National Park has some 150 walk- ing trails to choose from, for just about every fitness level. Let the forest close in around you. Savor the dappled, endlessly unfolding glowy-green landscape, and breathe deep the rich perfume of wet moss, ferns and woods. Hear the Little Pigeon River roar from a recent downpour, as it sends yelping kayakers on a rollicking ride. Straddling eastern Tennessee and northwestern North Caro- lina, and bisected by the Appalachian Trail, this is the most visited national park in America, luring nearly 10 million guests each year. But even during periods of high traffic, there are spots throughout the park where you can feel completely removed from the world— and therein lies an important ingredient of its potent allure. Just 50 feet in from the street and you’re a solitary figure in a soaring greenspace, misty rain tickling your skin, cloaked in a reverent silence—except for the sounds of nature and your own breathing. Eight hundred miles of trails criss- cross the 521,000-acre park and lead to chatter-hushing overlooks, secluded waterfalls and primitive, historic old structures begging to be poked through. Six of these trails lead to the park’s only lodg- ing—the rustic Mount LeConte Lodge, atop Mount LeConte, the third-highest mountain in the Smokies. The lodge can only be reached by trail—but the views it affords and the singular expe- rience of staying there make it worth the effort, borne out by the 12-15-SC-Smkymts-MJ07.indd 12 2/18/08 11:12:38 AM
Transcript
A spa for the soul.Now, take a moment.Now, take a moment.Now, take a moment
F
12 AAA Going Places | AAA.com
Immerse yourself in the natural miracle of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
From Graceland to the Grand Ole Opry, from Beale Street to Dollywood, Tennessee is a state defi ned by songs and the singers who sing them.
It’s really no surprise, then, that Mother Nature’s feathered crooners—and their two-legged fans—are flocking to the Volunteer State in droves. In fact, Tennessee is gaining recognition nationwide as a premier birding destination.
“Really, Tennessee is one of the birding hot spots in the United States,” says Virginia Reynolds, president of the Tennessee Ornitho-logical Society. “We’ve got the three Grand
Divisions—the Mississippi fl oodplain in the west, the Cumberland Plateau in the central part of the state and the Appalachian moun-tains in the east—so birders have the oppor-tunity to travel the whole length of the state and see very different kinds of birds.”
All told, Tennessee has seven distinct areas identifi ed as globally important bird areas by the American Bird Conservancy.
At the top of Tennessee’s birding destina-tions is Reelfoot Lake. Located in the state’s northwest corner, the 25,000-acre lake is a favorite wintering spot for hundreds of Ameri-can bald eagles.
Birders Flocking to Tennessee BY A M Y ST E V E N S
Come see the
A spa for the soul.
First things fi rst: First things fi rst: F ditch the iPod.
Immerse yourself in the natural miracle of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Come see theParadie BY SA L LY MO E
Peregrine falcon
Otherwise, you might miss the ear-caressing music of birdsong, wind and water.
Next...get on a mountain bike or set off on foot with a hiking stick—Great Smoky Mountains National Park has some 150 walk-ing trails to choose from, for just about every fi tness level.
Let the forest close in around you. Savor the dappled, endlessly unfolding glowy-green landscape, and breathe deep the rich perfume of wet moss, ferns and woods. Hear the Little Pigeon River roar from a recent downpour, as it sends yelping kayakers on a rollicking ride.
Straddling eastern Tennessee and northwestern North Caro-lina, and bisected by the Appalachian Trail, this is the most visited
national park in America, luring nearly 10 million guests each year. But even during periods of high traffi c, there are spots throughout the park where you can feel completely removed from the world—and therein lies an important ingredient of its potent allure. Just 50 feet in from the street and you’re a solitary fi gure in a soaring greenspace, misty rain tickling your skin, cloaked in a reverent silence—except for the sounds of nature and your own breathing.
Eight hundred miles of trails criss-cross the 521,000-acre park and lead to chatter-hushing overlooks, secluded waterfalls and primitive, historic old structures begging to be poked through. Six of these trails lead to the park’s only lodg-ing—the rustic Mount LeConte Lodge, atop Mount LeConte, the third-highest mountain in the Smokies. The lodge can only be reached by trail—but the views it affords and the singular expe-rience of staying there make it worth the effort, borne out by the
12-15-SC-Smkymts-MJ07.indd 12 2/18/08 11:12:38 AM
AAA.com | AAA Going Places 13
Bucharest, Romania
fact that reservations tend to fi ll up a year in advance. Pack trains of llamas bring in provisions three times a week via the Trillium Gap Trail; the lodge has no phone, showers or electricity. But after one clear night of stars unobstructed by light pollution, you might fi nd yourself wondering why electricity was even invented.
Just outside Gatlinburg (which presses against the northern bor-der of the park), my accommodations at the Four-Diamond Eight Gables Inn are not nearly so rustic. No hiking is required to get there and the plush bathing facilities are downright spa-worthy. There’s a remote-controlled faux fi replace at the foot of the bed and a screened porch that looks out on the sheltering woods that embrace the inn. It’s an ideal location—scenic and accessible, yet removed from Gatlinburg’s kitschy hustle and fl ow—perfect for a refreshing break from the day’s explorations.
Such explorations include the eight-mile auto loop of Great Smoky Arts & Crafts Community shops, designated a Tennessee Heritage Arts & Crafts Trail. The loop showcases 100 local art-ists and craftspeople, reportedly the largest group of independent artisans in the United States. (FYI, between April and December, the Gatlinburg mini-trolleys will take you there for about a buck.) Our visit hardly does it justice—that could take days—yet we still browse all manner of Americana, folkloric art, Appalachian crafts, paintings, lamps, furniture, toys, jewelry, quilts and wearable art. Thankfully, taverns, tearooms and cafés are scattered throughout
Thousands of visitors make their way to Reelfoot each January, February and March for a chance at an up-close look at the bald eagles, as well as golden eagles, numerous species of ducks and a wide variety of shore and wading birds.
“Reelfoot is a highlight for any birder,” Reynolds said.
Another popular Tennessee birding des-tination can be found in the southeastern portion of the state. The Hiwassee Wildlife Refuge in Meigs County is the site of the internationally known Sandhill Crane View-ing Days, an annual event that each Febru-ary celebrates the migration of thousands of sandhill cranes through the region.
The Hiwassee refuge provides ample oppor-tunity for viewing not only sandhill cranes but also waterfowl, bald and golden eagles and even the occasional whooping crane.
In East Tennessee, it is the mountains that beckon both birds and birders. In the state’s
northeast corner, Roan Mountain, eleva-tion 6,285 feet, is a birder’s paradise. From northern saw-whet owls and alder fl ycatch-ers to pine siskins and golden-winged war-blers, the Roan plays host to a dazzling array of species throughout the year.
And the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, located near Knoxville, is home to more than 230 species of birds, including nearly 120 species that breed in the park. Com-mon birds of the Smokies include dark-eyed juncos, chimney swifts, eastern phoebes, towhees and peregrine falcons. Because the crest of the Smokies rises nearly a mile above the foothills, the national park offers a pleth-ora of differing habitats for birds.
fact that reservations tend to fi ll up a year in advance. Pack trains of llamas bring in provisions three times a week via the Trillium Gap Trail; the lodge has no phone, showers or electricity. But after one clear night of stars unobstructed by light pollution, you might fi nd yourself wondering why electricity was even invented.
Just outside Gatlinburg (which presses against the northern bor-der of the park), my accommodations at the Four-Diamond Eight Gables Inn are not nearly so rustic. No hiking is required to get there and the plush bathing facilities are downright spa-worthy. There’s a remote-controlled faux fi replace at the foot of the bed and a screened porch that looks out on the sheltering woods that embrace the inn. It’s an ideal location—scenic and accessible, yet removed from Gatlinburg’s kitschy hustle and fl ow—perfect for a refreshing break from the day’s explorations.
Such explorations include the eight-mile auto loop of Great
Clockwise from left:Floral bounty on the grounds of the
Eight Gables Inn; the hammock beck-ons from Eight Gables’ front porch;
a moment of sunshine deep in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
than 230 species of birds, including nearly 120 species that breed in the park. Com-
Golden-winged warbler
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ly M
oe
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But not for long.
Not to worry.
So many birds can be seen and heard during a trek through the Tennessee moun-tains that local birders often call their bird walks “hiking with a soundtrack.”
“The sheer diversity of species that can be spotted in Tennessee is amazing,” says Bryan Stevens, a Tennessee resident who authors a syndicated newspaper column on birding called Feathered Friends. “For both the part-time hobbyist and the seri-ous birder, Tennessee is an exciting place to visit.
“There are wonderful, unusual birds to be found all across the state. Very few bird-ers come here without adding at least a bird or two to their life list.”
Other popular Tennessee birding des-tinations:
• Big South Fork National River and Rec-reation Area: Located in Oneida, this sprawl-ing recreation area is home to multiple species, including numerous warblers, spar-rows and hawks. The eastern meadowlark, pine warbler and red-shouldered hawk are among the permanent residents, while sea-sonal visitors include the northern harrier, evening grosbeak, black-and-white warbler and American redstart.
• Frozen Head State Park and Natural Area: Nestled in the Cumberland Mountains near Wartburg, this state park is a favorite of birders. An elevation of 3,324 feet creates
an outstanding environment for numerous woodland birds. Common birds here include pileated woodpeckers, cerulean warblers and ruby-crowned kinglets.
• Musick’s Campground: Situated on the shores of South Holston Lake in North-east Tennessee’s Sullivan County, this camp-ground is one of Tennessee’s best-kept bird-ing secrets. Numerous birding rarities have been spotted here, including the great white heron, eared grebe and ruddy turnstone.
From left: A scenic spot off a winding park road; a lush rose on Eight Gables’ front porch; kayakers maneuver into the strapping currents of the Little Pigeon River.
The bald eagle, America’s symbol
Phot
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ly M
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14 AAA Going Places | AAA.com
the loop for caffeine-enriched, rib-sticking sustenance. Such aero-bic shopping can wear a body out.
In weather that vacillates between fi tful sunlight and a delicate rain, we hook up with a real-life Yoda of the wilderness, Vesna Plakanis, co-founder with husband Erik of “A Walk in the Woods,” a nature-guide service based in Gatlinburg. Vesna—young, fi t, and armed with walking sticks, umbrellas and bottled water—guides us along a broad path in the Greenbrier area of the park, and infects us with her deep love of these woods. After pointing out a patch of poison ivy, she tells us about jewelweed—a plant that eases the itching brought on by poison ivy, and often can be found growing in its vicinity (et voilà). She shows us evidence of an abandoned beehive and discusses the proliferation of tulip trees. And without her prompting, we might have overlooked the rem-nants of an old homestead, nearly swallowed up and reclaimed by the lush vegetation. Vesna is a font of information and her every answer gives birth to another question. The hike is over too soon.
Back at the inn, that massive hammock on the front porch is unoccupied at the moment. There’s still time before afternoon tea to sink in for a spell...and watch the bird channel. ■
