1.2.1_Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix_Edition Jan 2010 (1)

7/24/2019 1.2.1_Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix_Edition Jan 2010 (1)

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Global Quality Manual Raw Material

(Edition: January 2010)


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Global Quality Manual - Raw Material (Edition: January 2010)

Preface

The success of a textile and clothing company is essentially dependent on the quality of

its products and producers. On the main materials and sales markets, supply frequently

exceeds demand. This gives rise to intensified competition not only in the area of

pricing, but also on the quality front. As a manufacturer of brand goods and quality

products, we have found it necessary to define a uniform, state-of-the-art set of quality

assurance guidelines.

This document contains information on logistical and administrative processes and tests,

together with the required QA criteria for testing the quality of textile products and

accessories. By applying the different testing disciplines, your company will be in the

position to supply us with high-quality materials on schedule and in line with samples,

thereby contribution to the consistent quality of our ready-to-wear products.

These guidelines apply exclusively for Triumph International. Other Triumph

companies may have their own requirements and specifications, particularly in relation

to the technical supply conditions for woven and knitted fabrics.

In the future, the decisive factor in maintaining competitiveness will be the ability to

react quickly to changing market conditions, comply with QA criteria governing

materials and procedures, and meet commercial demands.

With this objective in mind, our goal is to overcome the difficult market conditions of

the future through close and trusting cooperation.

Please note that this document is intended for use exclusively in your dealings with our

company, and should not be used or reproduced for any other purpose.

Triumph International


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List of Contents

1 Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted Fabrics1.1 Preface. 1

1.2 General Conditions. 1

1.3 Profile of Product Requirements for all Shipments to Triumph International .. 2

2 Testing Manual2.1 Introduction. 3

2.2 Facilities and Apparatus.. 4

2.3 Material Inspection......... 72.4 Testing guidelines... 8

APPENDIX

1 Marking Stencil for Extensibility Tests. i

2 Instructions for Performing Spectraphotometric Tests.. ii

3 Colour Scale Cards for Checking the Colour Homogeneity of a Batch. iii

4 Fluorescent Lamp Equipment from VeriVide iv

5 Triumph Testing Protocol... vi

6 Acknowledgement (Quality and Test Requirements). xxi


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Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material Edition: January 2010

1

1. Technical Supply Conditions for Woven and Knitted

Fabrics

1.1 Preface

The Technical Supply Conditions specified herewith shall apply for all consignments of

materials received by Triumph.

They correspond to the Technical Conditions of Purchase for Knitted Fabricsfor knitted

fabrics in general and France Tissu Maille of May 1993.

1.2 General Conditions

1.2.1Materials must be dyed or bleached to match our colour standards as closely as

possible.

1.2.2The material finish (feel, softness, surface texture, workability when moulding and

stitching, etc.) must correspond to the approved initial sample.

1.2.3 Technical data must be recorded in a Raw Material Specification (Technical

Specification) approved by us. The current valid form is a Word.doc document

and is provided by Triumph. The filled in Word.doc form must be saved under thefile name: material number, width and suppliers name (11111-999 ABC) and

transmitted via e-mail to the respective purchaser.

Tolerance levels with respect to weight per square metre, extensibility, modulus,

and shrinkage due to washing, etc. must also be listed in the Technical

Specification and require our express approval.

1.2.4 Materials will be accepted as top quality only if the quality expectations and

performance standards can be met as stated in this manual. In the event that it is

found that any materials that have been shipped to Triumph do not conform to the

quality expectations and performance standards, Triumph may reject such

materials. The supplier is then required to promptly correct or replace such

materials with satisfactory materials.

In the case that any dispute arises over any test results, Triumph may require

further tests to be conducted to confirm the results. Triumph will arrange for such

additional testing to be conducted by one of Triumphs quality partners. If the

material is found not to conform to Triumphs performance standard the supplier

shall bear the cost of this additional testing.


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The supplier must warrant that all goods supplied to Triumph conform to

Triumphs quality expectations and performance standards. The supplier shall

fully indemnify Triumph against any goods not conforming to Triumphs

standards (for the avoidance of doubt this indemnity shall encompass loss of

profit).

Triumph reserves the right to cancel any items should any material continue to failour minimum requirements.

1.3 Profile of Product Requirements for all Shipments to Triumph

International

1.3.1 Our products normally have long lasting and direct contact to human skin. Hence

it is stipulated that no health risk may arise from use. Any substances or

treatments which might be harmful to human health are in conflict with 30

German LFGB and are prohibited.

1.3.2 Any supplier of products for Triumph is required to agree to and declare whetherthe raw materials, component parts and other things of value supplied or otherwise

delivered to Triumph comply with international requirements and the requirements

of Oeko-Tex and the REACH regulation.

1.3.3 Should no certificate Confidence in textiles tested for harmful substances

according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 be available for a certain material, then the

criteria according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 must be met all the same.

1.3.4 Triumph requires that PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) is not present in any of our raw

materials or the packaging it is delivered in. In addition, all packaging must be

BHT free. (The test for BHT should be performed in accordance with test methodASTM D4275, detection limit 5ppm).

1.3.5 It is a legal requirement that products intended for sale in Japan, do not contain

MONOFIL yarns and it is a general requirement in Triumph that Monofil is not

used in any of our raw materials that may have direct contact with the skin of a

consumer.

1.3.6 For additional information about Triumphs chemical requirements refer to the

Triumph International Vendor Information (TIVI).


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2. Testing Manual

2.1 Introduction

According to the standards work ISO 9000/EN29000 written by the European

Committee for Standardization (CEN) as a guide for quality securing, the test methods in

this manual serve to secure the quality standard.

The tests have to be conducted in the given manner by the supplier during the productionprocess and prior to the dispatch of goods, respectively, and the results have to

correspond to the values stated in the Raw Material Specification (Technical

Specification).

The documentation of the test results from the supplier is the prerequisite for an

uninterrupted proof of quality as well as for a consistent quality securing.

Where equipment is used for testing purposes, it should be calibrated on a regular basis

to ensure the accuracy and consistency of test results. This calibration normally takes

place annually.

Beside the calibration of each measuring instrument, it is important for reliable andcomparable test results to take out specimens at the prescribed stage and to spread elastic

specimens, in particular, for a given time under normal conditions.

The test methods are exclusively applied to consignment of goods. Special suitability

tests and utility tests, as applied, for example, when checking the offer, are not listed in

this manual.


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2.2 Facilities and Apparatus

The following tables in Sections 2.2.1 and 2.2.2 list the facilities and apparatus required

to perform the tests specified in the testing guidelines.

2.2.1 List of Facilities

Facilities Remarks

Dark room For colour matching.

Conditioned room

With a standard atmosphere for conditioning

and testing as specified in BS EN ISO 139.

The atmosphere should be monitored with atemperature and humidity recorder and

calibrated with a sling hygrometer.

For all physical tests:

1)

The material must be conditioned for

at least 4 hours prior testing.

2) Tests must be conducted under

standard atmospheric conditions.

2.2.2 List of Apparatus

For colour tests Remarks

Light cabinet For visual colour testing

Colourimeter -

Colour standards For visual colour testing

Sample file (colour scale cards)For visual colour testing and general

assessment of the appearance of the fabric

Manual or computerised test cardindex

-


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For assessments and measurements Remarks

Ruler Metal, calibrated

Pick glass With a pointer, 1 inch x 1 inch

Die cutter Round, able to measure weight per squaremetre.

Thickness gauge

Thickness Gauge Specifications:

Resolution = 0.01mm

Measuring Range = 10mm

Depth of Jaws = 200mm

Scale Diameter = 54mm

Measuring Pressure = 1.5N

Feeler Shape = (b) 20mm diameter

(Triumph is using Schmidt Control

Instruments model J-100)

Balance With an accuracy of 0.01g.

Fabric inspection machine

The machine must be tension free when

checking elastic fabric. Triumph is using "La

Mechanica" brand.

Microscope -

Protractor -

For physical performance tests Remarks

Tensile tester

The machine must be sited in a standard

atmosphere for conditioning and testingtextiles as specified in BS EN ISO 139.

(Triumph is using Zwick)

Washing machine With accompanying ballast material

Dryer Exhaust or condensation

Martindale abrasion tester -

Pneumatic bursting strength tester -

ICI mace snag tester -

Indelible markers -

Marking stencils For elongation and stability tests

Scissors -

Pendulum testing machine -


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For colour fastness and chemical tests Remarks

LaundrometerWith a rotational speed of 402 rpm and

prescribed temperature 2C

Xenon arc lamp For light fastness tests

Crockmeter With desized bleached cotton lawn

Perspirometers With 5kg weights

Oven, incubator or cabinet dryerCapable of maintaining a specified

temperature at 2oC

pH meter With an accuracy of 0.02 unit

AgitatorFor use when determining the pH value of

aqueous extracts of fibrous material

Mesh drying trays Non-rusting

Multifibre adjacent fabric

Type DW

All testing facilities should use multifibreadjacent fabric.

Grey scales BS EN ISO 105 A02 and BS EN ISO 105 A03

Sewing machine

Electrically operated, single needle, lock

stitch, capable of producing stitch type 301,

using white cotton thread

Balance With an accuracy of 0.0001g.

ThermometerWith a range of -10

oC to +110

oC in 1.0

oC

graduations

Timers With audible alarms.

Volumetric measuring equipment and

necessary glass ware

Including measuring cylinders, pipettes,burettes, volumetric flasks, beakers, glass

rods, Petri dishes, glass and acylic resin

plates

Steel balls Non corrodible (~6 mm in diameter)

Desiccator With a perforated plate


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2.3 Material Inspection

2.3.1 Responsibility for material inspection

Material suppliers must be able to show the quality of their material by providing

completed inspection reports together with the goods shipped to all Triumph ProductionCentres.

Production centres must carry out material inspection for each delivery upon arrival.

2.3.2 Inspection guidelines

Refer to the latest edition of Triumphs separate inspection guidelines manual.


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2.4 Testing Guidelines

All parties shall refer to the Triumph Testing Protocol in Appendix 5 for the minimum

testing requirements according to material type for bulk shipments. There are other tests

that may be required depending on fabric type which will specified by Triumph on an

individual basis.

2.4.1 Guidelines for samples for testing

Colour checking:

A small 10 x 20 cm section from each roll of material is required to check the colour

homogeneity of a particular colour batch.

Testing:

For each material type the sample quantity in Table 1 should be taken as a general

guideline for physical, colour fastness and chemical testing per item, colour and size

which may be subject to variation according to material type.

Table 1 Quantity of material required for testing

Material Type Sample Quantity

Broad width Fabric / Allover Lace 2m full width

Narrow Trimming / Lace 2m (except extra long pattern repeat)

Lace in pair design 2m per each side

Accessories (in piece form) 5 pairs or 10 pieces

Labelling:

All samples must be labelled with their material and batch number.

Note 1:To allow for correlation between the suppliers test results and the material tests

carried out by Triumph International, please note the samples below must be taken 30cm

from the fabric selvedge.

Samples to measure fabric weight. Samples to measure elongation. A straight section along the wale of certain elastane elastic fabric for testing adhesive

strength.

Samples for testing shrinkage due to washing.

Note 2:For any necessary counter checking of results by suppliers, Triumph offices or

Triumph quality partners, all samples of material must be taken from the same area or in

close proximity where the sample was taken for the original test.

2.4.2 Sample Files

Since the quality of a material does not depend entirely on its technical properties, but

also on its uniform appearance (i.e. colour and surface quality), samples must be kept

from each batch supplied.


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2.4.2.1 Continuity samples of fabrics in open width

The following sample files have proven to be most effective:

A5 sections of batches supplied are folded over such that the warp and weft of all

samples are parallel. The folded sections are then stapled in a row of overlapping

samples onto an A4 card, as shown in the example in Appendix 3. An adhesive label isapplied to the corner of each batch sample and indicated the supplier name, the Triumph

material number, the batch number and the delivery date.

2.4.2.2 Continuity samples of narrow elastic and tape, lace trimmings, embroidery,

plastic parts and metal parts

A representative sample from each batch of the materials listed above must be archived.

The samples are stapled alongside each other onto an A4 card. The delivery date, width,

and in the case of elastic materials, the mechanical extensibility values are noted under

each sample and the batch number is written beside the sample.

In this way, it is possible to trace the continuity of colour, general appearance, feel, width

and extensibility.


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2.4.3 Colour Matching Procedure

2.4.3.1 Visual Colour Matching

The following requirements must be fulfilled in order to visually match the whiteness

level or colour quality of colour batches with predefined colour standards:

a) All batches must be dyed or bleached in accordance with the colour standards

predefined by TRIUMPH INTERNATIONAL.

b) The standard colour samples must be stored in a dark location and kept free of dust.

c) The standards are in polyamid without elastane. The surface is in a dull finish, no

direction effect and with a complex structure. More details are described on the label

such as version, recipe etc.

d) All suppliers/finishing plants must set up their own dark room, the walls of which

must be a mid-grey colour ref Grey N7.

e) This dark room must have the same colour matching booth as used by TRIUMPH

INTERNATIONAL for materials testing. The lamp equipment used must also beidentical to that used by Triumph.

Note 1. The product used by Triumph is a Veri Vide industrial model with the

following fluorescent lamp equipment:

Daylight

TL 84/P15

UVB (ultraviolet ray lamp)

The fluorescent lamp and TL84/P15 tubes marked accordingly can be obtained from FA.

LESLIE HUBBLE LIMITED and are available in 600 mm and 1,500 mm lengths

(Appendix 4).The main light sources (D65 / TL84) must be changed after 2000h or latest

one year.


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2.4.3.2 Colour Matching Using Instruments

The results of different spectrophotometric systems can be correlated only if the

measuring geometry and lighting are identical. When performing spectrophotometric

tests on white samples, it must be possible to calibrate the UV proportion of the lighting

and the triplet effect must be eliminated to a great extent.

Due to the use of devices with different levels of sophistication when measuring

whiteness levels the communication between partners is often very difficult and this

results in the need for information meetings before measurements are performed.

To ensure the reliability of measurement results, all parties must adhere to a standard

measuring procedure as described in the Instructions for Performing

Spectrophotometric Tests in Appendix 2. Despite the use of an automatic, software-

based pass/fail process, the spectrophotometric results of a sample do not necessarily

reflect the visual impression.

In cases where there is doubt, it is possible to use colour scale cards (Appendix 3) to

verify a result. Colour scale cards are A4 cards onto which A5 cuttings (double-layer)

from each batch in the same notation are stapled in a row of overlapping samples in the

order in which they were supplied. When the test sample is laid alongside this row of

samples, the colourist can determine whether the colour of the test sample matches that

of the standard colour sample.

2.4.3.3 Digital Colour Communication Procedure

Refer to the latest edition of Triumphs separate colour manual.


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2.4.4 Test Criteria

The following test criteria should be selected such that the material specification, process

capability and serviceability of the materials are ensured.

2.4.4.1 Material specification Raw Material Specification (Technical Specification)

The specifications agreed for the production and acceptance of a new quality with regard

to the machine type, the yarn used, the manufacturing procedure, the technical values,

the colours, the colour consistency and the look of material must be observed in the same

way as the specifications in the Raw Material Specification.

2.4.4.2 Process capability

These criteria refer to the subsequent processing of the materials to ensure the capability

of the processes is high so that the final product produced conforms to specifications.

Working width: The working width of the fabric must be observed to ensure that

predefined patterns can be used for cutting.

Stability: The material mustremain constant in their form and size. It is quite common

for the fabric shapes to shrink (dry shrinkage) after cutting or while being handled at the

sewing machines. This results in ill-fitting garments and irregular stitching.

Flatness: The fabric must lie flat on the cutting table with even selvedges, and without

any longitudinal or transverse curling. Ripples in the fabric must also be avoided.

Distortion-free fabric: The fabric must be free of any longitudinal, transverse, or

diagonal distortion. Narrow elastic and lace must not be curved or dog-legged.

Flaw limit/identification: The maximal number of permitted flaws must not be exceeded.

Flaws should be marked without damaging the fabric.

Repeat: Repeat size must be conserved, e. g. in lace, embroidery, and fabric prints.

Ease of cutting:The condition of the fabric must be such that it can be cut without any

problems, i.e. no adhesion at the edges of the fabric shapes, no pulling of Elastane fibres

out of double-rib fabrics when cutting, and no pulling of knitted fabrics.

Wrinkling: Wrinkling should be avoided in circular-knitted materials.

Mouldability: Mould qualities should demonstrate colour-fast, wrinkle-free, bubble-freeand must be odourless.

Ease of stitching: Materials should be handled in such a way that loop damage is

avoided in the garment.


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2.4.4.3 Serviceability

These criteria refer in particular to the serviceability of a product. Customer satisfaction

with warranted or expected qualities is an important goal which cannot be emphasized

enough.

Shrinking due to washing: The material must comply with quality-specific.

Adhesive strength: The texture and finishing of double-rib fabrics must exhibit good

adhesive strength values (slippage effect) so that the elastane fibres retain their adhesion

even when exposed to fabric softeners or detergents with softening agents.

Resistance to tumble drying/pilling: The material should be resistant to tumble drying

and free of pilling.

Resistance to breakage/tearing: The material should be resistant to breakage and tearing,

even after frequent use (wash cycles).

Physiological finishing generally recognized as being safe: This refers to the exclusive

use of dyes, equipment, and finishing procedures that are generally recognized as being

safe for humans and are ecologically sound.

Fastness: The material should be fast to NOx, washing, light, colour dropout,

perspiration, chlorine, water, and friction.

Neutral odour: The material should be free of any unpleasant odours.


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Triumph Global Quality Manual Raw Material

2.4.5 Test Methods

2.4.5.1 Overview of test methods

Dependent on the material type and properties to be tested Triumph International has established the followi

respective Triumph Testing Code.

Assessments and Measurements

Material

typeTest Method

Triumph testing

codePerf

Compliance with Approved Samples and General

Appearance of FabricTriumph method T_F_A_T1 Same as the master

Feel and Stability of the Fabric Triumph method T_F_A_T2 Same as the master

Neutral Odour Triumph method T_F_A_T3 No detectable odou

Mouldability of Fabrics Triumph method T_F_A_T4 Global Manual

Repeat Size Triumph method T_F_M_T1 The tolerance is 5

Fabric Width Triumph method T_F_M_T2 Raw Material SpecThickness Triumph method T_F_M_T3 Raw Material Spec

Fabric Weight Triumph method T_F_M_T4 The tolerance is 5

Fabric Density Triumph method T_F_M_T5 Raw Material Spec

Seam Slippage ISO 13936-2 T_F_M_T66mm seam opening

60N for fabrics 2

120N for fabrics >

All fabrics

including

printed and

embroidered

fabric and

lace

Fabric Curling Triumph method T_F_M_T7 The degree of curli

Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Narrow

ElasticsTriumph method T_Ac1_A_T1 Same as the master

Feel and Stability of Narrow Elastics Triumph method T_Ac1_A_T2 Same as the master

Bowing Test for Narrow Elastics Triumph method T_Ac1_M_T1 Up to 4%

Weight of Narrow Elastics Triumph method T_Ac1_M_T2 The tolerance is 5

Narrow

Elastics

Dimensions of Narrow Elastics Triumph method T_Ac1_M_T3 Raw Material Spec


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Assessments and Measurements (Continued)

Material

type

Test Method Triumph testing

codePerf

Form and Shape of PU/Fibrefill Cups Triumph method T_Ac2_A_T1 1mm deviation fr

No tolerance for th

PU/

FibrefillCups

Thickness of PU/Fibrefill Cups Triumph method T_Ac2_M_T10.5mm (for < 10m

1.0mm (for 10m

Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Hook

and Eye TapesTriumph method T_Ac3_A_T1 Same as the master

Hook and

Eye Tapes

Dimensions of Hook and Eye Tapes Triumph method T_Ac3_M_T1Raw Material Spec

The opening of the

Form and Appearance of Bra Wires Triumph method T_Ac4_A_T1The curvature of th

wire width.

The tolerance for b

Bra Wires

Dimensions of Bra Wires Triumph method T_Ac4_M_T1 Raw Material Spec

Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Plastic

BonesTriumph method T_Ac5_A_T1 Same as the master

Plastic Bones

Dimensions of Plastic Bones Triumph method T_Ac5_M_T1 Raw Material SpecAppearance and Manufacturing Quality of

Buckles, Slides and RingsTriumph method T_Ac6_A_T1 Same as the master

Dimensions of Buckle, Slide and Rings Triumph method T_Ac6_M_T1 Raw Material Spec

Buckles,

Slides and

Rings

Dimensions of Spirals Triumph method T_Ac7_M_T1 Raw Material Spec

Appearance and Performance of Zippers Triumph method T_Ac8_A_T1 Same as the masterZippers

Dimensions of Zippers Triumph method T_Ac8_M_T1 Raw Material Spec

Sewing

ThreadsAppearance of Sewing Threads Triumph method T_Ac9_A_T1 Same as the master

Form and Size of Motifs and Other Decorative

ItemsTriumph method T_Ac10_A_T1 Same as the master

Other

Accessories

(Motifs) Weight of Motifs and Other Decorative Items Triumph method T_Ac10_M_T1 The tolerance is 5

Stiffness and Softness of Cut Tape Triumph method T_Ac11_A_T1 Same as the masterAngle of Cutting Triumph method T_Ac11_M_T1 45o

Cut Tape

Width of Cut Tape Triumph method T_Ac11_M_T2 Raw Material Spec


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Physical Performance Tests

Property Test Method Triumph testing

codePerf

Bursting strength EN ISO 13938-2 T_F_PP1_T1

FabricLace rigid......

Lace elastic

Burn out

Open structure

Narrow materials

Bond Strength of Laminated Fabrics ASTM D 2724(modified)

T_F_PP1_T2 10N

Tensile Strength ISO 13934-1 T_F_PP1_T3 200N

Tear Strength ISO 13937-1 T_F_PP1_T4Warp: 9N

Weft: 7NTensile Strength of Rings and Sliders Triumph method T_Ac6_PP1_T5 100NSewing Thread Strength ISO 2062 T_Ac9_PP1_T6 Raw Material Spec

Resistance to Unsnapping of SnapFasteners (Poppers)

ASTM D 4846 T_Ac12_PP1_T7 Min 9N (2lbs)Max 27N (6lbs)

Strength of Bra Wire Casings to

PenetrationTriumph method T_F_PP1_T8 250N

Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength Triumph method T_Ac3_PP1_T91 hook and eye: 90

2-3 hooks and eyes

Resistance to Breakage Triumph method T_F_PP1_T10 -

Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres Triumph method T_F_PP1_T11 25 g, obvious or weTesting Adhesive Strength Manually

(Slippage Test)Triumph method T_F_PP1_T12 No thread must slip

Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic Triumph method T_Ac1_PP1_T13 No thread must slip

Strength

Tensile Strength of Welded Shoulder

StrapsTriumph method T_Ac1_PP1_T14

There should be no

straps at the recomm


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Physical Performance Tests (Continued)


codePerf

Elongation test Triumph method T_F_PP2_T1 10% extensibility

Material SpecificatStretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics

Having Low PowerASTM D 2594 T_F_PP2_T2 Recovery > 85%

Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from

Stretch YarnsASTM D 3107 T_F_PP2_T3 Recovery > 85%

Stretch and

recoveryproperties

Manual Extensibility Triumph method T_F_PP2_T4 10% as specified

Specification.

Resistance to Pilling ISO 12945-2 T_F_PP3_T1

Woven fabrics: gra

Knitted fabrics (fila

cycles

Knitted fabrics (spu

fibres and fibre ble

Resistance to SnaggingASTM D 3939 T_F_PP3_T2 The minimum requ

Determination of Spirality (Skew) ISO 16322 T_F_PP3_T3Not more than 3%

wash.

Appearance/

surface

properties

Appearance after Washing Triumph method T_F/Ac_PP3_T4No major or notice

compared with the

Dimensional Stability ISO 5077 (modified) T_F/Ac_PP4_T1 Global Manual + RDurabilityand stability

Washing Durability Triumph method T_F/Ac_PP4_T2

There must be none- Deterioration in handl

(for labels or prints th

- Breakage

- Cracking- Peeling

- Delamination

- Colour change/damag- Distortion

For metal decorative ite

metal coating) is accept

For Rhinestone decorati


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Colour Fastness Tests


codePerf

Colour Fastness to Light EN ISO 105-B02 T_F/Ac_CF_T1Grade 4

Colour Fastness to Rubbing EN ISO 105-X12 T_F/Ac_CF_T2Dry:grade 4 staini

Wet:grade 3 staini

Colour Fastness to Rubbing of Paper

TagsEN ISO 105-X12(modified)

T_Ac13_CF_T3Staining on the ru

Colour change of

Colour Fastness to Washing EN ISO 105-C06 T_F/Ac_CF_T4Colour change:gr

Staining: grade 4

Colour Fastness to Perspiration EN ISO 105-E04 T_F/Ac_CF_T5Colour change:gr

Staining: grade 4

Colour Fastness to Water EN ISO 105-E01 T_F/Ac_CF_T6Colour change:grStaining: grade 4

Colour Fastness to Sea Water(Swimwear)

EN ISO 105-E02 T_F/Ac_CF_T7Colour change:gr

Staining: grade 4

Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water

(Swimwear)EN ISO 105-E03 T_F/Ac_CF_T8 Colour change:gr

Colour Change after Multiple Washing EN ISO 105-C06 T_F/Ac_CF_T9 Colour change:gr

Phenolic yellowing EN ISO 105-X18 T_F/Ac_CF_T10 Staining: grade 4

Colour Fastness to Nitrogen Oxides/Burnt

Gas Fumes

ISO 105-G01 or

ISO 105-G02

(AATCC 23).T_F/Ac_CF_T11

Colour change: gr

bare PU cups

Colour

fastness

Colour Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage;

Paper Tags

AATCC 163, Option

1 (modified) T_Ac13_CF_T12Staining:grade 4-5


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Chemical Tests


codePerf

Chemical

Reactions Corrosion Resistance Triumph method T_Ac_Ch1_T1 No corrosion

Composition Fibre Content

European

Directives

96/73/EC and

73/44/EEC.

T_F/Ac_Ch2_T1+ or 3% for blend

Where fibre conten

allowed.

*Refer to the current version of the Oeko Tex Standard and the REACH Regulation and Triumph Interna

(TIVI) for further details of chemical tests.

2.4.5.2 Catalogue of test methods

The following sections describe the purpose, apparatus, test specimen, method, reporting parameters and pe

outlined in Section 2.3.5.1.

The sections are arranged as follows:

Section 1:Assessments and Measurements

Section 2:Physical Performance Tests

Section 3:Colour Fastness Tests

Section 4:Chemical Tests


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Triumph International Assessments and Measurements

20

Section 1

Assessments and Measurements


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Triumph International Assessments and Measurements(Fabric)

21

Revised: January 2009 T_F_A_T1

Compliance with Approved Samples and General Appearance of Fabric

Purpose To verify that the appearance of the material is true to the originaland to evaluate the general appearance.

Test specimen The minimum requirement for the specimen size is 210 x 150 mm.

Method Compare the appearance of the test specimen with the master sample

under good lighting and on a flat clear surface.

Pay attention to the construction of the fabric and check for defects

such as cockling, stripiness, streakiness, skewness, spots or marks

etc. that will adversely affect the appearance of the fabric.

Report Provide comments on the appearance of the fabric compared to the

master sample.

Performance

standard

The fabric appearance must be the same as the master sample.

For lace: 3mm for lace ends


Feel and Stability of the Fabric

Purpose To verify that the handle of the material is true to the original and toevaluate the general handle.


Method Based on the handle of the master sample, manually assess the drape

of the fabric or the required material stability.

Pay attention to the smoothness of the fabric surface, the fabric

stability, the elasticity of volume, the feel of lace and other fabrics

and the softness of decorative picots.

Report Provide comments on the handle of the fabric compared to the mastersample.

Performance

standard

The fabric hand feel must be the same as the master sample.


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Neutral Odour

Purpose To determine if there are any odours present on the fabric as dyes,

softeners, silling finishes, packaging transport and storage may leaveunpleasant odours on textiles which will result in complaints.


Method Warm the test specimen in the hand to intensify any odours that are

present enabling them to be detected.

Report Provide comments on the odour of the fabric.

Performance

standard

There must not be any odours present on the fabric.


Mouldability of Fabrics

Purpose To determine the mouldability of new materials, new colours and

difficult materials according to the predefinition by Triumph.

Apparatus Moulding tools and appliances used in production.

Test specimen 1 metre x full width

Method The only way of determining whether a textile can be moulded

without any negative repercussions for the product itself or for

Triumph International is to attempt to mould the fabric using the

same specific moulding tools and appliances as used later on during

production.

The size of the mould sample, the number of fabric layers, the

temperature of the moulding tools and the contact time are all of

equal importance.

Test must therefore be carried out on production machines.

Report Comment on the mouldability of the material.

Performance

standard

A mould sample is approved provided the following criteria are met:

a) The desired form and mould depth have been achieved.

b) There are no wrinkles or bubbles in the cup.

c) The test specimen was not drawn into the mould form to ensure

that the predefined sample size was sufficient for the cup size.

d) No noxious fumes or unpleasant odours were produced.

e) There is no noticeable reduction in stability.

f) The colour did not change, or any changes in colour are within

defined visual or colourimetric tolerance levels.


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23

Revised: January 2009 T_F_M_T1

Repeat Size

Purpose To measure and verify that the repeat sizes of prints, lace,

embroidery and other patterned or zoned material conform tospecifications.

Apparatus Ruler

Test specimen Sample containing at least three repeats.

Method 1.Lay the sample flat on the table.

2.Identify the pattern repeat.

3.Measure the length and width of the repeat.

4.Also lay the sample flat on the top of the master sample to checkfor any distortion.

Report Report the length and width of the repeat and if there was any

distortion of the sample compared to the master sample.

Performance

standard

The tolerance is 5%.


Fabric Width

Purpose To measure and verify that the fabric width conforms to

specifications.

Apparatus Ruler or measuring tape.

Test specimen Test as received.

Method All Fabrics:1.Lay the sample flat on a table evenly.

2.Measure the usable width of the sample (within the stenter marks,exclude the two selvedges or the sized edges in the case of cotton

fabrics)

Note 1. Bordered embroidery line fabric, knitted circular bodice

fabric and non-elastic narrow laces (such as Volant and

Galloon lace) as well as ribbons must be measured down to

the last millimetre taking into account the tolerance levels

indicated in the Raw Material Specification or as instructed

by Triumph. It must be determined whether or not the

items are to be measured with or without decorative picots

or whether both measurements are required. This has to be

stated in the Raw Material Specification.


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24


Fabric Width (Continued)

Crocheted LaceThe width of crocheted lace which is scalloped at both sides can only

be measured precisely using the following method:

1.Lay the lace on a straight edge card so that the tip of the highestscallop lies exactly on the edge of the card as shown in Figure 1.

2.Using a ruler measure the width of the lace from the edge of thecard to the lip of the highest scallop on the other side.

Figure 1 Width Measurement of Crocheted Lace


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Fabric Width (Continued)

Embroidery BandFor embroidery bands such as the one in Figure 2, measure the

useable width from the highest point of the pattern side to the

innermost of the ground fabric side.

Figure 2 Width Measurement of an Embroidery Band

Report Report the fabric width (in mm).

Performance

standard

As specified in the Raw Material Specification.

The tolerance for narrow laces is 5%.


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Thickness

Purpose To measure the fabric thickness.

Apparatus Thickness gauge


For fabric and spacer fabrics:Randomly cut specimens from three different locations. Three

different locations include the central part of the sample and the edge

parts 300mm from the edge. Lay the specimens flat and relax for

minimum of four hours.

Method 1.Handle the specimens carefully to avoid altering the natural stateof the material.

2.Place the specimen face side up, or otherwise specified on thethickness gauge. Gradually lower the presser foot into contact with

the specimen, taking 5 to 6 seconds to apply full pressure.

3.Read and record the thickness value.

Report Report the mean thickness (in mm).

Performance

standard



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Fabric Weight

Purpose To measure and verify that the fabric weight conforms tospecifications.

Apparatus -Die cutter-Balance

Test specimen Fabric and all over lace:Randomly cut specimens from three different locations with the die

cutter. Three different locations include the central part of the sample

and the edge parts 300mm from the edge.

For embroidery and narrow fabrics:

Prepare a specimen with a length of 1m.

Method Fabric and all over lace:Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance and calculate the mass

per unit area in g/m2.

For embroidery and narrow fabrics:Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance.

Report Fabric and all over lace:Report the mass per unit area in g/m

2.

For embroidery and narrow fabrics:

Report the mass per unit length in g/m.

Performance

standard

The weight must be within the tolerance of 5%.


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Fabric Density

Purpose To determine the fabric density.

Apparatus Pick glass


Method The warp ends and picks per 1 cm of woven fabric, and the courses

and wales per 10 cm of knitted fabric are determined by means of a

pick glass and a counting needle. Since the accuracy is an important

factor when measuring the density of knitted fabrics a pick glass with

lens coverage of 2.5 cm or 1 " are preferable to 1 cm glasses.

When assessing the density of twill- and atlas-woven fabrics, and of

most elastic double-rib fabrics, it is not possible to count threads or

stitches. Instead, the number of threads or stitches per pattern repeatis determined, ideally with a stereomicroscope. When counting

repeats using the magnifying lens, it is necessary to include not only

full repeats but also sections of the repeat last counted, so that the

thread or stitch count is as accurate as possible when extrapolating to

10 cm lengths. For this reason, half wales and half rows must also be

included if they can be counted.

Report Report the number of ends and picks per 10cm or the number of

courses and wales per 10cm.

Performance

standard



Seam Slippage

Purpose To determine the resistance offered by the thread systems of woven

fabric to slippage at a sewn seam.

Apparatus CRE tensile testing machine

Test specimen As specified in ISO 13936-2.

Method Perform the test in accordance with ISO 13936-2.

Report Report the mean warp seam opening and the mean weft seam

opening (in millimetres).

Performance

standard

6mm seam opening at:

60N for fabrics 220g/m2

120N for fabrics > 220g/m2


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Fabric Curling

Purpose To evaluate the degree of fabric curling

Apparatus Protractor

Test

specimen

A square cutting of fabric measuring 150 x 150 mm.

Method 1.Allow the test specimen to relax on a flat table in standardatmosphere conditions for four hours.

2.Measure the degree of curling using a protractor at the edge of thetest specimen as shown below for all four corners.

Report Report if the degree of curling is greater or less than 90o.

Performance

standard

The degree of curling should not be more than 90o.


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Triumph International Assessments and Measurements(Accessories and Components)

30

Revised: January 2010 T_Ac1_A_T1

Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Narrow Elastics

Purpose To verify that the appearance of the material is true to the originaland to check for any defects.


Method Perform the following checks on the specimen:

- Compare the appearance of the specimen with the original.- Check for any twisting.- Check if there are any joins per unit length- Examine for any sharp edges or tears on metal or plastic parts.

Report Provide comments on the appearance of the test specimen compared

to the master sample.

Performance

standard

The appearance must be the same as the master sample.

There must not be any twisting.

No more than 2 joins per 100m are accepted

Metal and plastic parts must not have any sharp edges or tears.


Feel and Stability of Narrow Elastics

Purpose To verify that the handle and stability of the material is true to the

original and to evaluate the general handle.


Method Manually assess the transverse stability of the elastic, in particular

the stretch of supporting elastics and wide waistbands.

Report Provide comments on the handle and stability of the test specimen

compared to the master sample.

Performance

standard

The handle and stability must be the same as the master sample


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Revised: January 2010 T_Ac1_M_T1

Bowing Test for Narrow Elastics

Purpose To determine if the elastic is bowed which is defined as the deviation ofan individual pick from a straight line joining its two ends.

Apparatus Ruler

Test

specimen

Five specimens

For continuous length samples prepare specimens 500mm in length.

For pre-cut elastics test as received.

Place a mark at the centre of the specimens

Method 1. Lay the specimens on a flat surface.2. Place a rigid straight edge across the specimen, touching both ends.3. If any bowing (curving) of the specimen is observed, measure

distance a and b as shown in the below figure. Where a is the

distance (in mm) from the centre point to the rigid straight edge and

b is the distance (in mm) between the two ends of the specimen.

4. Calculate the bowing percentage as follows:

=

b

aBowing *100%

Report Report the amount of bowing (as a percentage) for each specimen and

the mean.

Performance

standard

Bowing is not normally expected but up to 4% bowing is accepted.


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Weight of Narrow Elastics

Purpose To measure and verify that the material weight conforms tospecifications.

Apparatus Balance

Test specimen Prepare a specimen with a length of 1m.

Method Weigh the specimens in grams on a balance.

Report Report the mass per unit length in g/m.

Performance

standard



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Dimensions of Narrow Elastics

Purpose To measure and verify that the dimension of the material conform tospecifications.

Apparatus - Ruler

- Thickness gauge


Method Measure the total width and body width of the specimen.

Determine the thickness using a thickness gauge at several locations

along the the specimen. This is because pre-existing contact pressure

on the pan may lead to deviations due to the softness of the material

to be tested. When laying down the pan, therefore, the lever must be

manipulated carefully and relatively slowly.

Report Report the total width, body width and thickness of the specimen (in

mm).

Performance

standard



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Form and Shape of PU/Fibrefill Cups

Purpose To verify whether the form and shape of PU or fibrefill cups are trueto the original.

Apparatus A standard set of transparent plastic cup moulds corresponding to

eachmaterial number.


Method 1.Place the test specimen into the plastic cup or shot.

2.Ensure that the test specimen is evenly in contact with the plasticcup/shot and the bust point of the test specimen matches with the

bust point on the plastic cup.

3.Check the shape and the cut-out of the test specimen by examiningwhether it matches and fits exactly in the plastic cup/shot.

4.In addition, check the softness and recovery of the cups byapplying pressure to the bust point of the test specimen and

compare it to the original.

Report Report if there is any deviation of the test specimen from the plastic

cup/shot and the original.

Performance

standard

Each specimen must be true to the original and each side of the test

specimen must not deviate more than 1mm from the plastic

cup/shot.

There is no tolerance for the shoulder strap extension.


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Thickness of PU/Fibrefill Cups

Purpose To measure the thickness of PU or fibrefill cups at the bust point andcushion part.

Apparatus - Scissors- Ruler


Method 1.Cut the specimen to the bust point (which corresponds to the crosson the plastic cup mould/shot).

2.Measure the thickness of the specimen at the bust point.

3.Cut the specimen at the cushion part and measure the thickness ofthe thickest part.

Report Report the thickness of the specimen at the bust point and cushion

part (in mm).

Performance

standard

The tolerance is:

0.5mm (for < 10mm)

1.0mm (for 10mm)


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Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Hook and Eye Tapes

Purpose To evaluate the appearance of the material and to check for any

defects.


Perform the following checks on the specimen:

- Check the closure to ensure whether it is not too tight or too loose.- Check the overlap to verify whether it covers the hook/eye.- Feel the hook and eye tape to check for any sharp points on the

tape.

- Check the materials used to determine whether it is the correct itemor not.

- Stretch the brushed nylon of the eye tape (if applicable) to

determine whether the brushed nylon comes away from theinterlining. (If the stability of the brushed nylon is poor, the

appearance of the eye tape will be poor after sewing.)

- Check the winding direction according to Figures 1 and 2.

Method

Figure 1 Figure 2

Report Report if there are any problems relating to the checks specified

above or if there are any other irregularities.

Performance

standard

There must be none of the above problems or irregularities found and

the appearance must be the same as the master sample.


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Dimensions of Hook and Eye Tapes

Purpose To measure the dimensions of the material to verify whether theyconform to specifications.

Apparatus Ruler


Method 1.Lay the specimen on the table evenly.

2.Measure the dimensions according to the specification stated inthe Raw Material Specification.

3.Measure the length of the openings of the hook/eye parts.

Report Report the dimensions.

Performance

standard


The openings of the hook and eyes must be 7 1 mm


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Form and Appearance of Bra Wires

Purpose To verify whether the form and appearance of bra wires are true tothe original.

Apparatus - Bra wire blue prints/stencils

- Ruler


Method 1.Compare the shape and length of the bra wire to its approved blueprint (Figure 1).

2.Check the colour of the paint dipping of the tips to see whether

they follow the colour mentioned on the blue prints.

3.Check the width and thickness of the paint dipping to see whetherit is too thick or too thin.

Figure 1

Report Report if there are any deviations from the approved blue print.

Performance

standard

The curvature of the bra wire (tip to tip) must be wire width.

The tolerance for bra wire length is -3mm, +1mm


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Dimensions of Bra Wires

Purpose To measure the dimensions of the bra wires to verify whether theyconform to specifications.

Apparatus Caliper gauge


Method Measure the width, thickness and raising height (if applicable) of the

specimen.

Report Report the width, thickness (in mm) and raising height (if

applicable).

Performance

standard



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Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Plastic Bones

Purpose To evaluate the appearance of the material and to check for anydefects.



- Check the colour of the specimen to ensure that it is colourless.- Compare the hardness of the specimen to previous deliveries or

the master sample.

- Feel the specimen to check for any sharp points.



Performance

standard



Dimensions of Plastic Bones

Purpose To measure the dimensions of the material to verify whether they

conform to specifications.



Method Measure the length, width and thickness of the specimen.

Report Report the length, width and thickness of the specimen (in mm).

Performance

standard



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Appearance and Manufacturing Quality of Buckles, Slides and Rings

Purpose To evaluate the appearance of the material and to check for anydefects.



- Check the colour approval of the specimen to ensure it matchesthe samples from the previous deliveries or the master sample.

- Feel the specimen to check for any sharp points.



Performance

standard



Dimensions of Buckle, Slide and Rings

Purpose To measure the dimensions of the material to verify whether they

conform to specifications





Performance

standard



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Dimensions of Spirals






Performance

standard



Appearance and Performance of Zippers

Purpose To evaluate the appearance and function of the material.



- Check the colour of the cotton cloth and the zipper head.- Check the performance of the specimen by pulling the zipper up

and down several times.



Performance

standard

The appearance and performance must be the same as the master

sample.


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Dimensions of Zippers


Apparatus Ruler


Method 1.Measure the length of the zipper the distance between the topstop and the bottom stop and the distance after the top and after

the bottom stop.

2.Measure half the width of the zipper at the bottom.

Report Report the length and width of the specimen.

Performance

standard



Appearance of Sewing Threads

Purpose To verify that the appearance of the material are true to the original



- Check the colour of the thread and suppliers colour code.- Check the appearance and evenness of the thread compared with

the original.

- Check the hairiness of the thread, the number of protruding hairsshould be minimal.

- Check whether the thread can be unwound smoothly.



Performance

standard



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Form and Size of Motifs and Other Decorative Items

Purpose To verify that the form and size of motifs and other decorative itemsconform to specifications.



- Check the design and colour of the specimens.- Since the size, form, and design of motifs can vary greatly, and it

generally comes down to the length of their lateral side and the

size of their angle, the only option for testing motifs is to use

stencils. The motif is laid on top of the stencil and checked for

compliance.- Feel the specimen to check for any sharp points.



Performance

standard

The form and size must be the same as the master sample.


Weight of Motifs and Other Decorative Items

Purpose To measure and verify that the material weight conforms to

specifications.

Apparatus Balance


Method 1.Prepare three pieces of the sample.

2.Measure the weight of the three pieces.

3.Calculate the average weight.

Report The average weight (in grams per piece).

Performance

standard



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Stiffness and Softness of Cut Tape

Purpose To verify that the handle and stability of the material is true to the

original.


Method Check the stiffness and softness of the tape. The tape should not be

too soft or curling.

Report Provide comments on the stiffness and softness of the test specimen

compared to the master sample.

Performance

standard

The handle must be the same as the master sample


Angle of Cutting

Purpose To measure the angle of cutting of bias cut tape.

Apparatus Protractor

Test specimen Bias cut tape.

Method For bias cut tape check the angle of cutting by a protractor.

Report Report the angle of the cutting (in degrees).

Performance

standard

The angle must be 45o


Width of Cut Tape

Purpose To measure and verify that the width of the material conform to

specifications.

Apparatus Ruler


Method Measure the width of the tape.

Report Report the width of the specimen (in mm).

Performance

standard



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Triumph International Physical Performance Tests

46

Section 2

Physical Performance Tests


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47

Revised: January 2010 T_F_PP1_T1

Bursting Strength

Purpose To determine the bursting strength of textile fabrics.

Apparatus Bursting strength tester (pneumatic)

Test specimen As specified in EN ISO 13938-2.

Method Perform the test in accordance with EN ISO 13938-2.

Take measurements from three areas on the test specimen.

Diaphragm test area: 50cm2(79.8 mm diameter)

Narrow materials 100mm width: 7.3cm2(30.5 mm diameter)

Report Report the mean bursting strength, in kilopascals of the weakest area.

Report the make and model of bursting tester used.

Performance

standard

The bursting strength of material should be above the following

figures.

Fabric 120 kPa

Lace rigid......... 70 kPa

Lace elastic... 70 kPa

Burn out 70 kPa

Open structure70 kPa

Narrow materials 100mm width: 120kPa


Bond Strength of Laminated Fabrics

Purpose To determine the bond strength of laminated fabrics.

Apparatus Tensile testing machine

Test specimen As specified in ASTM D 2724 (modified). The specimen width

should be 50mm.

Method Perform the test in accordance with ASTM D 2724 (modified) using

a test rate of 100mm/min.

Report Report the bond strength (in newtons).

Performance

standard

10N


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Tensile Strength

Purpose To determine the maximum force and elongation at maximum forceof textile fabrics using a strip method.




Report Report the:

The mean maximum force and, if required, of the force at rupture in

newtons.

The mean elongation at maximum force and, if required, of the

elongation at rupture in, in percent.

Performance

standard

200N


Tear Strength

Purpose To determine the tear force of textile fabrics.

Apparatus Pendulum testing machine



Report Report the mean tear force across warp and weft (in newtons).

Performance

standard

Warp: 9N

Weft: 7N


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Revised: January 2009 T_Ac6_PP1_T5

Tensile Strength of Rings and Sliders

Purpose To assess the tensile strength of rings and sliders.

Apparatus Tensile testing machine with the following parameters:

- Gauge length: 100mm

- Test rate: 200mm/min

For unattached rings and sliders: 100% cotton twill woven tapein

widths appropriate to the internal width of the ring or slider

Impact resistant safety glasses or goggles (must be worn during

testing)


Method 1.Set up the tensile testing machine to the required parameters.

2.For unattached rings and sliders loop one piece of theappropriately sized tape through the specimen and clamp both

ends of the tape in the top jaw.

3.Loop the second piece of tape through the specimen and clamp thetwo ends in the bottom jaw. Ensure that the specimen is mounted

centrally and vertically in the jaws ensuring that no tension is

applied.

4.Start the test and measure the load required to break the testspecimen.

Repeat the procedure for the remaining two specimens using new

pieces of tape.

Report Report the average load value or break point.

Performance

standardThe tensile strength should be >100N


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Sewing Thread Strength

Purpose To determine breaking force and elongation at break of sewing

threads taken from packages.


Test specimen As specified in ISO 2062.

Method Perform the test in accordance with ISO 2062.

Report Report the:

The mean breaking force (in centi-Newtons).

The mean elongation at break (as a percentage).

Performance

standard

As specified in the Raw Material Specification


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Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap Fasteners (Poppers)

Purpose To determine the force required to disengage snap fasteners by a pull

perpendicular to and parallel with the plane of the snap fastener.

Apparatus Tensile testing machine

Aluminium plate

Test specimen As specified in ASTM D 4846.

Method Perform the test in accordance with ASTM D 4846.

Report Report the load at the point the snap fastener disengages (in

newtons).

Performance

standard

Min 9N (2lbs)

Max 27N (6lbs)


Strength of Bra Wire Casings to Penetration

Purpose To determine the strength of bra wire casing fabrics to penetration.



- Gauge length: 50mm(Measure between the bottom of the upper jaw and the

top of the pin penetration apparatus)

Pin penetration attachment (as shown in Figure 1) with the

following dimensions:Height: 85mm

Width: 75mm

Thickness: 5mm

Length of pin: 8mmDiameter of pin: 2.5mm (flat tip)

Test specimen Three specimens of bra wire casing fabric, 300mm in length

- Tubular:slit the inside fabric down the centre without damagingthe outer cover.

- Open width:test the lining tape if it is to be used.


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Strength of Bra Wire Casings to Penetration (Continued)

Method 1. Set up the tensile testing machine to the required parameters and

place the pin penetration attachment in the lower jaw clamp.

2. Thread the specimen through the open slot of the pin penetration

apparatus, over the end of the metal pin. The outer cover should

face out.

3. Take the two loose ends of the test specimen align and clamp into

the top jaw of the tensile testing machine ensuring that it is aligned

centrally and vertically and that no tension is applied.

4. Start the test and measure the load required to penetrate the test

specimen.

Report Report the load (in newtons) required to penetrate the bra wire

casing.

Performance

standard

250N

Figure 1 Pin Penetration Attachment


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Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength

Purpose To determine the load required to pull out hook and eyes.


- Gauge length: depending on the size of the hook/eye tape


Hook and eye pull out attachment (as shown in Figure 1). For

information on the dimensions of the attachment contact Triumph or

Triumphs Quality Partners.

Test specimen Hook and eye tapes attached to garments or securely sew the hook

and eye to 100% cotton twill woven tapein widths appropriate to the

width of the hook and eye.

Method 1.Place the hook/eye side in the bottom jaw grip; align the top of thegrip with the bottom of the tape.

2.Place the attachment centrally in the top grip.

3.Position the specimen in the hook/eye part of the attachment.Extend the specimen to the pull out point.

4.Repeat steps 1-3 above for the eye side.

Report Report the load (in newtons) at the smallest, middle and largest

settings for multiple hook and eye fasteners.

Performance

standardThe minimum requirements for:

1 hook and eye: 90N (20lbs)

2-3 hooks and eyes:160N (35lbs)


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Hook and Eye Pull Out Strength (Continued)

Figure 1 Hook and Eye Attachment

Side View

Front View


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55


Resistance to Breakage

Purpose Resistance to breakage is an important property for delicate fabrics in

open width, lace and embroidery.

Method This test is very subjective and the decision as to whether the

material is sufficiently resistant or too weak is based entirely on

experience and comparison.

There are two types of manual test:

a)

Tear Test

Both sides of the test sample are grasped between the thumb and

the index finger and an attempt is made to tear the fabric without

pulling it apart.

b)

Thumb Test

The test sample is grasped as described in (a) and an attempt is

made to penetrate the fabric with the thumb.


Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres

Purpose In many types of elastane elastic double-rib fabrics, the elastanefibres are simply worked into the fabric as vertical fibres without any

interlinking or reinforcement.

These fibres can be easily pulled out of the knitted bond when cutting

or punching, particularly with small pieces of fabric. When handling

finished pieces, the elastane fibres are under considerable stress, and

may work themselves out of the stitched seam.

Experience has shown that delicate fabrics in particular, but also

fabrics with additional cotton wrap threads, are particularly

susceptible to this pulling-out effect. It is therefore essential to test

the adhesive strength of elastane fibres.





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Adhesive Strength of Elastane Fibres (Continued)

Test specimen The test specimen as illustrated in Figure 1 must be prepared as

follows:

-Length:approximately 240mm along the direction of the elastanefibres

-Width:50mm along the grain.

The elastane fibres must be exposed so that they can be pulled out

from the bottom of the fabric towards the top. The sample area

should consist of 10 elastane fibreswhich are used as follows:

1st, 4

th, 7

thand 10

thfibres are used for adhesive strength tests.

2nd

, 3rd

, 5th

, 6th

, 8th

and 9th

fibres are cut away.

Figure 1 Preparation of the test specimen

Method 1.Clamp the test specimen in the jaws of the tensile testing machinewith one elastane fibre secured in the drawing clamp.

2.Pull the elastane fibre out of the knitted bond at a speed of100mm/min.

3.Repeat the procedure for the remaining three elastane fibres.

Report Print the results achieved at the end of each set of tests showing the

graph with four curves ending with multiple peaks as shown below.

Analyse the following properties on the curves:

a) The first drop in stress >1g of each elastane fibreb) The characteristics of the spike curve.

Interpretation of the curves on the graphs:

a) The higher the first spike, the better the adhesive strength.b) The sharper the curve spikes, the better the adhesive strength

(obvious stop and go effect).

The following figures show the how the resulting graphs are to be

interpreted and characterised.


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Figure 1 High adhesive strength with obvious stop and go effect, ideal

Figure 2 High adhesive strength with weak stop and go effect, stillacceptable


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Figure 3 Low adhesive strength with medium stop and go effect, not

acceptable

Figure 4 Low adhesive strength with no stop and go effect, unacceptable

Performance

standard

The adhesive strength of the elastane fibre must be at least 25 g and

must display an obvious or weak stop and go effect.


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59


Testing Adhesive Strength Manually (Slippage Test)

Purpose To test the adhesive strength of fabrics.

Apparatus Sewing machine

Soap solution Soap: Grained laundry soap, greenManufacturer: Wilhelmtalwerke, Aachen

Available from: Zschimmer & Schwarz

Max-Schwarz-Strasses 4-5

56112 Lahnstein

Soap solution: 40g of grained laundry soap per litre

Test specimen The test specimen must be prepared as follows:

-Length:250mm-Width:100mm

1. Fold the 250mm specimen in half and cut it into two pieces of

exactly 125mm in length.

2. Sew the two pieces back together in a single needle lock stitch

seam approximately 5mm from the edge of the cut.

Note 1. The seam size must be observed, since it is crucial to the

accuracy of the test results.

Note 2. A stitch length of exactly 7 stitches per cm must also be used

and the thread tension set such that the stitch is drawn into

the middle of the fabric volume and there is no gathering in

the seam.Note 3. The seam must be stitched using a cotton thread with a

polyester core (Nm 80/2).

Method 1.Steep the test specimen in the soap solution for two minutes.

2.Manually jerk the test specimen to the stretch limit 10 times (asmuch as it will go).

It is important to ensure that the test specimen is held across the

full width.

3.Rinse the sample under running water.

Report If it is observed that the individual fibres have recoiled, it must be

verified whether they were unhooked by the needle, or whether they

are no longer present in the 5mm seam. The latter case indicates

actual fibre recoil.

Performance

standard

No thread must slip out of the seam unit.


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60


Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic

Purpose To test the adhesive strength of strap elastic.

Apparatus - Sewing machine

- Washing machine

- Fatigue testing device(free clamping length 100mm, lifting height 60mm)

Soap solution Soap: Grained laundry soap, green

Manufacturer: Wilhelmtalwerke, Aachen

Available from: Zschimmer & Schwarz

Max-Schwarz-Strasses 4-5

56112 Lahnstein

Soap solution: 40g of grained laundry soap per litre

Test specimen The test specimen must be prepared as follows:

-Length:250mm

1. Fold the 250mm specimen in half and cut it into two pieces of

exactly 125mm in length.

2. Sew the two pieces back together in a zig zag seam approximately

10mm overlap of the strap ends.

Note 1. A stitch length of exactly 4 stitches per cm and an overstitch

width of 3mm must also be observed. The thread tension

must be set such that the stitch is drawn into the middle ofthe overlapping straps and the strap is not gathered in the

seam.

Note 2. The seam must be stitched using a cotton thread with a

polyester core (Nm 80/2).

Method Method 1 Soap Test1.Steep the test specimen in the soap solution for two minutes.

2.Manually jerk the test specimen to the stretch limit 10 times (asmuch as it will go).

It is important to ensure that the test specimen is held across thefull width.

3.Rinse the sample under running water.


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Testing Adhesive Strength of Strap Elastic (Continued)

Method 2 Fatigue Test

1.Wash the specimen in a washing machine at 60oC with a measureof heavy duty detergent. Fill the softener compartment of the soap

drawer with an appropriate dose of fabric softener. Do not include

a spin cycle in the wash so that the strap is tested when wet.

2.Move the mobile clamp of the fatigue testing device to the top liftposition, which corresponds to a clamping length of 160mm.

3.After washing clamp the wet test specimen in the fatigue testingdevice so that the seam is located in the middle between the two

clamps.

4.Stretch the specimen to the maximum manual extensibility limit.

5.Subject the specimen to 30,000 extension cycles.

Report If it is observed that the individual fibres have recoiled, it must be

verified whether they were unhooked by the needle, or whether they

are no longer present in the 5mm seam. The latter case indicates

actual fibre recoil.

Performance

standard

No thread must slip out of the seam unit.


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62


Tensile Strength of Welded Shoulder Straps

Purpose To assess the tensile strength of welded shoulder straps.

Apparatus Pneumatic testing device(as shown in Figure 1).

- Air pressure: Standard 6.5 bar- Electric power: 230V before transformer

Figure 1 Pneumatic Testing Device

Test

specimen

Test as received

Method 1.Adjust the air pressure according to the width of the shoulder strap. (The

recommended values are shown in Table 1.)2.Hang the slide onto the Slide Adaptor and lay flat the shoulder strap

between the Clamping Cylinder and press down the Clamping Valve

3.With the other hand push down the Stretching Valve while theClamping Valve is still pressed down.

4.Stretch the strap four times repeatedly.

Report Report if the welded shoulder strap broke during testing or not.

Performance

standard

There should be no breakage of the welded shoulder straps at the

recommended air pressure.


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63


Elongation Test

Purpose To assess the extensibility of textile materials.

Definitions Extensibility:extension at a specified force

Modulus:force at specified values of extension



- Preload: 1% of the constant force


- Extensometer (strain): gauge length

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1.2.1_Triumph Global Quality Manual and Appendix_Edition Jan 2010 (1)

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