12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With
Gambrel Roof
I will be showing you how to build a 12' by 16' shed modeled after
an old-style barn, complete with double barn doors, a partial loft,
a barn-style roof, and a classic red and white paint job (although
really, you can paint it whatever color you want). I built this
shed for the farm program at my old high school, where I used to
volunteer, and I now have a part time job there. The administrator
there was going to buy a kit shed because the first shed was too
small and falling apart, but I convinced him that I could build him
a better shed from scratch, for less money, while at the same time
teaching some of the students a bit about construction. It also
helped that he really wanted a Gambrel roof, which is a bit hard to
find in a prefab shed.
Let's get started!
NOTES:
This is not a 1 person project. A minimum of 3 people are required
on some steps to build this without it being a huge pain.
Also, this is written with the assumption that you already have
basic carpentry experience and the ability to figure out small
details yourself. For example, I will tell you to cut a board to a
specific length and angle, but I will not specify the correct saw
to use (hint: it's a miter saw) or how to line up the cut.
Also, I forgot to take pictures of some of the steps, but I have
tried to cover those areas with computer- generated images.
1. ignore the unpainted sections, they got painted later
1
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Step 1: Check Your Local Building Codes
Before you begin construction, it's a good idea to check your local
building codes to see if your shed will require a permit. Where I
live, anything over 200 square feet requires a permit, which is
part of the reason I chose to build a 12'x16' shed, at 192 square
feet, it's just about as big as I can make it without having to
worry about the hassle of getting a permit. Sometimes there will
also be requirements such as a minimum distance from a property
line, or a maximum height of the structure. If you are doing this
on your
own property and plan to simply ignore getting the required
permits, it is still a good idea to follow the building code, that
way if you have a nasty neighbor who likes to stick their nose
where it doesn't belong (you know who you are...) who calls the
county on you, the county will probably just make you get a permit,
whereas if you built it too close to a property line or something
like that, they might make you demo it. Better safe than
sorry!
Step 2: Tools and Materials List
Before you begin, it's a good idea to make sure you have (or can
borrow) all the required tools for the project. It's also a good
idea to order your materials before you start building, or you
won't get very far.
Tools List:
Miter saw (unlike many projects, you can't really get away with
substituting a handheld circular saw, in my opinion it isn't
accurate enough) Table saw Circular saw Reciprocating saw Drill
Impact Driver Air Compressor Roofing Nailer Drywall Square Rafter
Square Level Calking Gun At least 2 ladders, one at least 14' tall
Misc common hand tools Paint Brushes and Rollers
Materials List:
16 - simpson strong tie 18g 4x4 hurricane tie (4x4 version of the
H1Z) 10 - simpson strong tie H1Z 18g hurricane tie 25 lbs - #9x3"
star drive deck screws 25 lbs - #8x1 5/8" star drive deck screws 5
packs (500) - simpson strong tie #9x1 1/2" external hex flange hex
head structural connector
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 2
screw 1 box (7200) - 1 1/4" galvanized coil roofing nails 2 lbs -
#12x1" electro galvanized steel roofing nails with plastic cap 1
roll (1000 sqft) - GAF feltbuster synthetic roofing underlayment 18
bags - architectural shingles (I used estate gray) 6 rolls - 7"x33'
starter shingle roll 1 bag - hip and ridge shingles 1 roll - 7"x50'
roll aluminum flashing 9 - 4"x10' galvanized steel drip edge
flashing 1 tube - flashmate roofing sealant 2 rolls - 6"x75' roll
grace vycor flex flashing 6 yards - gravel 3 - 4x4x8' 30 - 1x3x8' 1
- 2x2x8' 8 - 2x3x8' 9 - 2x6x12' 92 - 2x4x8' 30 - 2x4x10' 5 -
2x4x12' 6 - 2x4x16' 13 - 2x6x12' PTGC (pressure treated ground
contact) 4 - 4x4x16' PTGC 2 - 2x6x16' PTGC 9 - 23/32x4'x8' pine
plywood 20 - 19/32x4'x8'sheathing plywood 22 - T1-11 siding panel
4'x8' 16 - heavy duty hinges 1 - heavy duty double door latch 4 -
window slide latch 5 gallons - barn red exterior paint 1 gallon -
white exterior paint Little stuff I forgot
Materials cost is around $4,000.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 3
Step 3: Site Prep
Before we start building, we will want to prepare the spot where
the shed will sit. First, remove any vegetation underneath where
the shed will go and do the same for 1-2 feet on every side. I
screwed some scrap wood together into a crude 16'x20' rectangle so
I could easily see where to dig. Once you've removed all the
vegetation, lay down burlap or landscaping fabric to keep weeds
from growing. Lastly, put several inches of gravel on top. For a
16'x20' pad, 6-8 yards
is about what you'll need. After you've dumped all the gravel,
level it out as best you can. It doesn't have to be perfect, as we
can level the base of the shed with blocking later, but it should
be within an inch or two. You may instead pour a concrete pad if
you wish, although it isn't really necessary because the shed will
be raised off the ground on skids.
1. I find that high school students make an excellent form of free
labor. (only if you're building the shed for their school though,
for everyone else, you're out of luck) 2. Put a level on top of a
long board so you can easily find the low spots.
Step 4: Lay Out Skids and Build the Subfloor
Now lay out 4 16' 4x4s on the ground as shown in the first image.
There should be 3' 6" of space between the 4x4s. Next, build the
subfloor using 13 11'9" 2x6s for the joists and 2 16' 2x6s for the
sides. The subfloor is upside down in my pictures because I had a
lot of people to help me, so I was lazy and just built it upside
down with the skids already attached and then had everyone help
flip it over. You will need to assemble the subfloor on top of the
skids and then
screw them together with 3 1/2" screws. The 2x6s all have 14 1/2"
of space between them, except for the first and last spaces, which
are 13 3/4". This is so that we can screw in the floor with minimal
cutting or waste. When assembling the subfloor, regularly measure
the diagonals to see if it is square. If the diagonals are the same
length, you know the floor is square.
1
2
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 4
1. Home Depot was out of stock of 16' 4x4s so I used 12' and 4'
lengths instead. Don't do this unless you have to.
Step 5: Level the Subfloor
Before we build the rest of the shed, we need to level the
subfloor. To do this, place blocks of pressure treated wood scrap
under the 4x4 skids in at least 4 places along each skid. Use a
long, straight board to extend your level to ensure accurate
measurements.
1
Step 6: Build the Floor
Next up is to build the floor, which is made of sheets of 3/4"
plywood. The pattern is fairly simple, just a row of 2 full 4'x8'
sheets, followed by a row of a 4'x4', then a 4'x8', then another
4'x4', and finally another row of 2 4'x8' sheets. Use 1 5/8" screws
spaced 8" apart into every joist to attach the floor. In order to
avoid missing the joists when you are putting in the
screws, use a drywall square as a guide by putting it against the
edge of the sheet of plywood, directly over the joist. The drywall
square will then parallel the joist on top of the plywood, and you
can slide it over an inch and put the screws in next to it, and
they will hit the joist.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 6
Step 7: Side Walls' Framing
Before we assemble the side walls, it will save time to pre-cut all
of the pieces. Both side walls are the same. Be sure to be accurate
with your cuts, otherwise the walls will not fit together
properly.
I assembled the side walls slightly differently than in the first
image by making them in 2 pieces each. The goal was to make them
easier to carry them out to the building site (I pre-assembled a
lot of pieces in the school gym/shop). Unfortunately, it didn't
work very well, so I would recommend sticking to the original plan
when building yours and build them as just one piece each.
In the first image, in addition to all of the dimensions, you will
see 2 "H" shaped areas which have been colored darker. You need to
pre-assemble these before you fit them into the wall, otherwise
there will be no room for the screws. The top is a double board,
with the top board 3 1/2" shorter on either side than the other
board. Once again, check squareness by measuring the diagonals.
Assemble the double top board last. Use 3" deck screws for
everything. All double boards should be screwed together every 8"
in a zigzag pattern.
Cut List:
26 - 7'6" 2x4 8 - 6'8" 2x4 4 - 4'3" 2x4 12 - 6 1/2" 2x4 4 - 2'3
1/2" 2x4 2 - 15'5" 2x4 4 - 16' 2x4 4 - 2'6 1/2" 4x4 1/2" plywood
scraps
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 7
1. 7'6" 2. 3 1/2" 3. 1/2" space between these boards, use plywood
scraps for blocking 4. 6' 8" 5. 2' 3 1/2" 6. 2' 6 1/2" 7. 11 3/4"
between boards 8. 14 1/2" between boards 9. 4'3" 10. 13" 11. 6 1/2"
12. 15'5" 13. 16'
1
2
3
Step 8: Back Wall Framing
Assembling the back wall is pretty straightforward. Unlike the side
walls, the double top plate is longer on the top.
Cut List:
10 - 7'6" 2x4 2 - 11'5" 2x4 1 - 12' 2x4
1. 10 1/4" 2. 14 1/2" 3. 7'6" 4. 11'5" 5. 12' 6. 11'5"
1. this wall is upside down
1 2
Step 9: Front Wall Framing
The front wall is quite different from the back wall, as it
includes a double door frame. Make sure it is square by measuring
diagonals. Cut the small spacers above the door frame to each be a
tight fit. Add the top of the double top plate last, etc. I don’t
think I need to repeat myself anymore, you should be starting to
know what you’re doing by now.
1. 11'5" 2. 8 1/2" 3. 1'1 1/4" 4. 2'8 1/2" 5. 6'6" 6. 7'6" 7. 6'5"
8. Ignore these measurements, the blocking should be evenly spaced
9. 12'
Step 10: Wall Framing Assembly
To attach the walls, simply line them up with the sides of the
floor and attach the base plates to the floor using 3 1/2” screws
every 6” in a staggered pattern. Screw the walls to each other at
the corners using 3 1/2” screws every 8” in a staggered pattern. At
the top corners of the walls, where the top boards overlap,
screw each corner together with a pair of 3” screws. It is easier
to start with the side walls, and then add the front and back. Make
sure to hold the walls vertical as you screw them in.
1 2
3 4
Step 11: Add the Siding
Attach the siding to the framing using 1 5/8" screws every 8" into
every stud, as well as the top and bottom plates. Draw lines on the
siding using a large drywall square to help line up the screws with
the studs. You will need to drill pilot holes through the siding,
as it is very tough to start screws in it without them. You want to
line up the top of the siding 1 1/2" below the top of the walls to
allow room for the roof to go on properly. The interlocking panels
will leave ugly seams on the corners, but we will cover these with
trim later.
As you add some of the pieces of siding, you will cover the door
and window holes. To remedy this, use a reciprocating saw with a
long blade to trace the window and door frames from the inside and
cut them out. You can also pre-cut the holes with a circular saw
before you put the siding in place, which will result in a neater
finish, but it is also easier to make a mistake this way. I chose
to pre-cut my holes because I know what I'm doing.
Save the scraps of siding to use for the windows.
1. 1'1 3/4" 2. 2'3 1/2" 3. 1'3" 4. actually, all of the siding
needs to be moved down 1 1/2" from the top of the walls, so don't
bother cutting off any, just shift everything down 1 1/2".
1. top of siding is 1 1/2" below top of framing
1. sorry for the poor quality of this image...
1 2
Step 12: Make Gussets for the Roof Arches
Next we need to make gussets for the roof arches. We will make them
out of sheets of 3/4" plywood. To lay out this pattern on a 4'x8'
sheet of plywood, first mark every 11 1/4" on the short sides of
the sheet, and every few feet in the middle, then use a
straightedge to draw parallel lines between the marks. I find that
a 48" drywall square works very well for this. Next, mark every 9
1/4" along all of the lines you just made, and along the long edges
of the sheet. Now, starting with the first mark on one edge of the
sheet, draw lines perpendicular to the first set of lines, which
extend 3 3/4" out from each side of the line. Skip to the third
mark, then the fifth, and so on. Repeat this with every other line.
Now do the same thing on the remaining lines, except start at the
edge
of the sheet, and skip to the second mark, then the fourth, and so
on. Now all that's left is to draw zigzag lines between the tips of
the second set of lines. When you're done, the pattern should match
the second image. To cut them out, cut along the lines with a
circular saw in the same order you drew them; cut the longest lines
first, then the short perpendiculars, then the zigzags. As you
finish cutting each zigzag line, the gusset will fall off, exposing
the next line. Resist the urge to over-cut with the circular saw to
save time, as it will weaken the gussets. Instead, use a jigsaw or
handsaw to finish each cut. You will need 84 gussets.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 13
Step 13: Cut the Beams for the Roof Arches
Next we need to cut the rafter beams which the gussets will join
together. To do this, use a miter saw to cut one end of a 2x4 at a
67.5 degree angle (set the saw to 22.5 degrees). Then, measure 55
inches from the tip of the cut end, and cut the other end at 67.5
degrees in the opposite direction. Cut 60 beams this way. Use 10'
2x4s to get 2 pieces out of each board.
Step 14: Build a Jig to Assemble the Roof Arches
Next, we need to build a jig to ensure that our angles are accurate
when we assemble the roof arches. To build the jig, first get a
piece of scrap plywood, a few feet wide should be enough, and screw
one of the rafter beams into it. Then, get another rafter beam and
screw it into the plywood next to the first one to make an
isosceles triangle with a base of 101 5/8". That's it.
1. Jig with partially assembled roof arch
Step 15: Use the Jig to Assemble the Roof Arches
Now it's time to assemble the roof arches. Take 2 of the rafter
beams and place them in the jig, use a gusset and 1 5/8" screws to
join them together. Repeat this to join sets of 4 rafter beams
together with 3 gussets, then flip each one over and add 3
more gussets on the other side, except for 2 arches which only have
gussets on one side. Use 6 screws per gusset, 3 into each beam.
Save 8 rafter beams for later; these will be used to make the roof
ends.
1
Step 16: Make the Roof Ends
Now we make the roof ends. To do this, first cut 8 more rafter
beams, but this time make them 61" long. Then cut 28 pieces of 2x4
blocking, each 9" long. Now assemble 4 more roof arches using the 8
longer pieces you just cut for the ends of the arches, and 8 normal
pieces for the peaks in the centers of the arches. Then screw the
2x4 blocking into 2 of the arches as shown in the pictures, using 2
3" screws
per piece. Drill pilot holes to prevent the blocking from
splitting. There should be 4 pieces of blocking on each of the long
sections and 3 pieces on each of the short sections. Once you have
all the blocking screwed into 2 arches, flip them over, set the
other 2 arches on top, and screw the blocking to the second arches
to finish the roof ends.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 16
1. Here is a finished roof end.
Step 17: Add Loft Beams to 9 of the Roof Arches
Now we need to add the beams that will support the floor of the
loft. The loft will span across the first 8 roof arches, and we
will need one extra with a beam for the other end of the roof,
totaling 9 beams. To start, cut the ends of 9 12' 2x6s at 67.5
degree angles (set miter saw to 22.5 degrees). Cut off as little of
each end as possible to make the angles. The angled ends should
make them look like big rafter beams.
Now take 9 roof arches and screw the 2x6s to them so that they span
across the bottoms of the arches. Use 2 3" screws through the end
of each 2x6. 2 of the arches which need loft beams are the arches
with gussets on only one side. The beams go on the same side as the
gussets.
Step 18: Reinforce the First and Last Roof Arches
The first and last roof arches have both loft beams and 5 vertical
2x4s to reinforce them and provide something to attach the siding
to. Space them evenly along the base of the roof arches, otherwise
the siding will have nothing to attach to at the seams, and cut to
fit. Attach them with 3" screws. Use a square to make sure they are
perpendicular to the base. The arches you want to use are the ones
that have gussets on only one side.
1
Step 19: Raise the Roof Arches
Once you have assembled all the arches, it's time to raise the
roof. This requires at least 2 ladders and 3 people. Start at the
back end of the shed, and place both ladders against one of the
side walls about 10' apart. Take one of the reinforced end roof
arches and have 2 people carry it up the ladders, while the third
stands on top of the walls, or on a third ladder. The people on the
ladders hand the arch to the person on the walls, who then
positions the arch at one end of the roof, gussets facing in. Then
have the people on the ladders move the ladders to the ends of the
roof arch and screw the arch in place while the third
person holds it vertical. Repeat for the remaining arches, using
the arches with loft beams first, then the ones without, then the
other end arch, working back to front. Use hurricane ties to secure
the arches more firmly to the walls after you screw each one in.
After you install the second arch, and for every arch after it, cut
blocking to fit between the arches in 3 places per set of arches
(see images for pattern, it's hard to explain). The arches should
be evenly spaced, 1'3" on center.
1
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 18
1. Look at your man, now back to me, now back to your man, now back
to me. Sadly, he isn't me, but he could be like me if he followed
my instructables...
1. use hurricane ties to secure the arches to the tops of the
walls
1
1
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 19
1. blocking, cut to fit. This reinforces the roof until we put the
sheathing on, and allows us to climb on it more easily
1
Step 20: Add More Siding
Now, it’s time to put the rest of the siding on. Instead of
measuring each piece and cutting it, just hold it up against the
arch and trace the outline of the arch onto it, then cut along the
lines, and you will get a very good fit. Attach the siding the same
way you did before.
1. this guy is marking the back of the panel with the outline of
the arch so we can cut it to be a perfect fit
Step 21: Paint the Walls
In hindsight, now would have been the best time to paint the walls,
before the roof went on. Good thing I made the mistake, now you
don't have to! So yea, paint the walls barn red or whatever color
suits you. Also paint the remaining pieces of siding so they're
ready for later when we make the doors and windows.
Step 22: Add the Roof Ends
Attach the roof ends to the shed with 3" screws. You will need 2
ladders and 3 people again.
1
Step 23: Add the Roof Sheathing
Now take your panels of 15/32" sheathing plywood, haul them up to
the roof, and screw them in with 1 5/8" screws or nail them in with
sheathing nails. You want all the vertical seams to be centered on
roof arches, so cut them accordingly. I find it is easiest to just
screw the panels in with some overhang, then set
the depth of the blade on a circular saw to just barely deeper than
the plywood, and just cut them to fit in place after marking my
center line with a drywall square
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 22
Step 24: Build the Loft
Make the loft floor out of scraps and extra from the roof
sheathing. Use 1 5/8" screws.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 23
Step 25: Install Drip Edge, Flex Flashing, Underlayment, and
Starter Course
Now it's time to start actually putting the roof on. The order that
you do things is very important here. Start by nailing drip edge on
the bottom edges of the roof. You should nail every foot or so.
Second, roll out flex flashing to cover the nail heads and seal the
drip edge to the roof. You may need to use some 3M spray adhesive
to help the flex flashing stick to the wood. Third, roll out rows
of feltbuster synthetic underlayment (you can also use tar paper,
but the synthetic stuff is much more durable), covering both
sections of both sides of the roof, working from the bottom up, and
securing the underlayment with cap nails or cap staples. Fourth,
add drip edge to the
sides. You want to start from the bottom up, and overlap pieces of
drip edge by about 6". Also, instead of cutting new pieces for
where the roof changes angles, simply snip the part of the drip
edge that sticks down and bend it to the correct angle. Fifth, roll
out flex flashing on the sides, on top of the drip edge and the
underlayment. Sixth, roll out starter course, nailing every 6
inches, and about 2 inches back from the outer edge. Roll out the
bottom edges first, then the sides. You will want to snap chalk
lines before you roll out the underlayment to ensure that it is
straight.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 24
Step 26: Install Shingles on Steep Roof Faces
First, snap chalk lines, starting 13" above the bottom edge, and
then every 5 5/8" after that. Now, starting on the left side, get a
full shingle, line it up with the first chalk line, and nail it in
place using the 6 nail pattern shown in the third image. It is
important to nail at the indicated height so that the nails will
not show between the rows of shingles. Next, get a full shingle and
cut 6 1/2" off the left side of it. Line this shingle up with the
second chalk line, and nail it in place. Think about where you are
nailing so that the nail heads do not line up with the cracks
between shingles. Continue cutting more and more off each
shingle as you move up, 6 1/2", 13", 19 1/2", 26", 32 1/2", and
then move to the bottom row again and add a second full shingle.
Add full shingles to the first 6 rows and then repeat adding the
cut shingles for the next set of 6. Once you reach the top of the
steep section, cut the tops of the shingles off to be level with
where the roof angle changes. Be careful not to accidentally cut
the underlayment. Continue across the rows with full shingles till
you reach the other side, then measure and cut shingles to fit to
finish the steep sections.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 25
Step 27: Install Transition Flashing and Starter Course on Top
Sections
Now, nail a roll of aluminum flashing to cover the exposed tops of
the shingles on the steep section of the roof, and fold it over and
nail it to the top section of the roof. Seal all the nail heads
with flashmate roofing sealant, then cover it with flex flashing,
and lay down starter course the same way you did before, bottom
first, then sides.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 26
Step 28: Install Shingles on Top Sections
Now install shingles the same way you did before, except now you
only need to use 4 nails per shingle, unless you live in a high
wind area (check your local building codes). When you reach the top
of the first half, trim the shingles down, but when you reach the
top of the second section, just fold the shingles over the ridge
and nail them down.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 27
Step 29: Add Ridge Cap Shingles
To finish the roof, add ridge cap shingles by starting from either
end and working towards the middle. Use 4 nails per cap shingle,
and when they meet in the middle, cut a small rectangle to cover
the seam and secure it with 8 nails. Use some roofing sealant on
the exposed nail heads, and you're finished with the roof.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 28
Step 30: Build the Doors and Windows
Cut the doors out of 2 pieces of T1-11 siding. Frame the backs of
the doors with 2x4s as shown in the first image. Cut the doors to
fit the door frame. Then cut the 4 windows out of scrap T1-11
siding and frame with 2x3s as shown in the second image. The
windows should theoretically be 27" squares, but either cut them to
fit the window frames, or be prepared to trim a bit off the
edges.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 29
Step 31: Attach the Doors and Windows
Have someone help you hold the doors in place while you screw in
the hinges. Use 3 hinges per door. I replaced the little screws
that came with the hinges with 1 5/8" deck screws to make it a bit
stronger. Then attach the 4 windows in the same fashion, except
that you only need 2 hinges per window.
Step 32: Paint the Trim
Now it's time to paint the trim. I found it was easier to paint the
trim before attaching it to the barn. Paint all 4 sides of all the
1x3s with 2 coats of white paint (or whatever color you
want).
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 30
Step 33: Build the Corner Trim
Now put together the corner trim. Start by ripping 3/4" off of 4
pieces of trim with a table saw. Then assemble sets of 1 full size
piece and 1 ripped down piece into L shapes as shown in the images.
Use 1 5/8" screws. You will need 4 pieces.
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 31
Step 34: Attach the Corner Trim
First, hold a piece of corner trim up against the corner of the
shed, and mark and cut off the extra. Then, attach the corner trim
to the corners of the shed. Use 1 5/8" screws.
Step 35: Attach the Window Trim
For the window trim, cut pieces to fit around the outside edges of
the windows. On the 3 sides without hinges, you want to have the
trim extend slightly outside the border of the window, such that it
covers up the gaps between the window and the wall.
1. Look at the lower left edge of this square. That is where the
corner of the window is. The trim overhangs the edge
slightly.
Step 36: Add Window Latches
Now add latches to the windows. Instead of using the little piece
that the latch usually slots into, just drill a hole in the window
frame. Just as with the hinges, I used larger screws than the ones
that came with the latches.
1
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 32
Step 37: Add Door Latch and Trim
Add a heavy duty double door latch to the center of the doors, then
frame it with trim as shown in the images. As with the windows,
overhang the trim to hide the unsightly gaps around the edges and
between the doors.
Step 38: Finished!
12'x16' Mini-Barn/Shed With Gambrel Roof: Page 33
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Step 1: Check Your Local Building Codes
Step 2: Tools and Materials List
Step 3: Site Prep
Step 5: Level the Subfloor
Step 6: Build the Floor
Step 7: Side Walls' Framing
Step 8: Back Wall Framing
Step 9: Front Wall Framing
Step 10: Wall Framing Assembly
Step 11: Add the Siding
Step 12: Make Gussets for the Roof Arches
Step 13: Cut the Beams for the Roof Arches
Step 14: Build a Jig to Assemble the Roof Arches
Step 15: Use the Jig to Assemble the Roof Arches
Step 16: Make the Roof Ends
Step 17: Add Loft Beams to 9 of the Roof Arches
Step 18: Reinforce the First and Last Roof Arches
Step 19: Raise the Roof Arches
Step 20: Add More Siding
Step 21: Paint the Walls
Step 22: Add the Roof Ends
Step 23: Add the Roof Sheathing
Step 24: Build the Loft
Step 25: Install Drip Edge, Flex Flashing, Underlayment, and
Starter Course
Step 26: Install Shingles on Steep Roof Faces
Step 27: Install Transition Flashing and Starter Course on Top
Sections
Step 28: Install Shingles on Top Sections
Step 29: Add Ridge Cap Shingles
Step 30: Build the Doors and Windows
Step 31: Attach the Doors and Windows
Step 32: Paint the Trim
Step 33: Build the Corner Trim
Step 34: Attach the Corner Trim
Step 35: Attach the Window Trim
Step 36: Add Window Latches
Step 37: Add Door Latch and Trim
Step 38: Finished!