1.3.1. Business Etiquette

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1.1. Konzernwissen: voestalpine Konzern

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1.3.1. Business etiquette

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1.3.1. Business-etiquetteVersion: April 2014

For internal use only!


Preface

A positive attitude, confidence and a well-groomed appearance are inex-tricably linked in today’s professional life. Outside appearance gets people judged much faster than achievements, education or reliability. The very first seconds of your appearance will decide what people think about you and your image.

This is why the question shouldn’t be, “Do I need a certain image,” but instead

“Is what other people think about me as accurate as possible?”

Does your self-image correspond to how other people perceive you?

You simply cannot avoid having other people perceive you in a certain way. So, you need to think about HOW you would like others to perceive you before you let other people make such an important decision concerning you. However, we are not talking about a person’s artificial and unrealistic outside “packaging.” Instead, the right kind of outfit and an appropriate way of treating other people tends to upgrade a person and radiates a pos-itive attitude, professionalism and competence.

Our dress, grooming and behavior create our IMAGE.

This seminar will help you achieve the following goals:

▲ Create and expand your self-image

▲ Create the best possible way of expressing your personality by match-ing and harmoniously combining clothing style with your individual body features

▲ Using business etiquette as a way of supporting your career.

You can perfect your outside appearance and the way you behave by means of simple and easy to apply basic rules of image design and indi-vidual helpful hints. That way you will achieve a winning manner that will impress your customers, coworkers and superiors.

Enjoy yourself and GOOD LUCK!

Peter Schneider Eva Köck-Eripek

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Module1.3.1. Business etiquette

MentorPeter Schneidervoestalpine Rotec GmbHTel.: +43 50304 [email protected]

ExpertEva Köck-Eripek IMAGE INSTITUT Tel: + 43 650 50 660 50 [email protected]

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Table of contents

Preface 2

1. First impressions 7

2. Etiquette focus: Contact 8

2.1. Making contacts/acting confidently 8

2.2. Escorting 9

2.3. Greetings 9

2.4. Doing introductions the right way 9

2.5. Shaking hands 10

2.6. Titles 10

2.7 Business cards 10

3. Etiquette focus: Small Talk 11

4. Etiquette focus: Conversations 11

4.1 Appropriate communication/language 11

4.3. Phone conversations/greetings 12

5. Etiquette focus: Basic manners 13

5.1. Office manners 13

5.2. Manners at the restaurant, theater and other events 13

5.3. Cellphones and smoking 13

5.4. Congratulating/gifts/condolences 14

6. Etiquette focus: Foreign countries 14

6.1. Etiquette and manners in other countries 14

7. Etiquette focus: Dining out 16

7.1. Table manners 16

7.2. Being a guest and host 17

7.3. Business meals 17

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8. Self-presentation and image-building 19

9. Personal style 20

10. Styling 22

10.1. Body check 22

10.2. Styling rules 22

10.3. Basic rules for optical illusions 22

10.4. Proportion 22

12. Colors and signals 24

12.1. Using colors 25

12.2. Individual color harmony 25

13. Dress codes 27

13.1 Local dress codes 27

13.2. Dress codes depending on the occasion 27

13.3. Business-customary dress codes 28

14. Business attire 29

15. Checklist for your personal appearance and image 32

16. Questions 33

17. Tables 35

18. Bibliography 35

19. Recommended reading (German) 35

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1. First impressions

When we meet people we’ve never met before, we pick up certain signals that immediately trigger a number of reactions in us, such as:

▲ What clothes are they wearing?

▲ What about their facial expression?

▲ What does their voice sound like?

▲ What kind of language are they using?

These mental observations create an image of others within us. Or, more brutally stated: We put labels on people. Since we can’t always use ways of personal contact to get to know people more closely, we are forced to cre-ate mental pictures of others. How true these pictures may be compared to reality is a different issue. First impressions are hardly ever objective and fair.

So, what determines if we like or dislike another person?

The Mehrabian Circle (named after Albert Mehrabian, an American psy-chologist) shows that only 7% of meaning is in the words that are spoken. Non-verbal signals are more important. Words do transfer meaning; how-ever, a person’s voice and non-verbal factors set the mood.

In simplified terms this means

As far as first impressions are concerned, it is not important what you say, but HOW you say it and what kind of a visual impression you leave!

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Voice Melody of speech, pace of speaking, pronunciation, volume, pitch, pauses, sentence length ...

Non-verbal factors Facial expression, ges-tures, eye contact, posture, appearance, colors, smells, dress and grooming

Figure 1: Pie chart: First impressions and self-expression

Two or three key triggers are already enough to quickly let people form an opinion based on other people’s appearance concerning intrinswic values such as performance, competence and reliability. This psychological phe-nomenon is what makes wearers of glasses look more intelligent, although glasses really only mean that someone has eye problems.

You don’t get a second chance at a first impression!

2. Etiquette focus: Contact

2.1. Making contacts/acting confidently

An upright posture, maintaining eye contact, a friendly smile and clear gestures: This is how you should approach people. Be sure to actively approach people. They will be glad to get to know you. Think about and let yourself feel making people feel welcome. Your body will be able to express it!!

Always keep the following degrees of proximity in mind:

▲ Intimate proximity: 0 to 60 cm (a business taboo!)

▲ Personal proximity: 60 to 120/150 cm

▲ Social proximity: 120/150 to 360 cm

▲ Public proximity: up to 500 cm

Voice

Issue

Non-verbalfactors

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2.2. Escorting

Escort your guests in a way to make them feel comfortable. Lead the way through hallways or big rooms. Confidently walk ahead of your guest, taking their walking speed into consideration. Unobtrusively lead the way by opening closed doors. Open the door and then let your guests enter first. Then you follow and close the door.

Your guests walk AHEAD of you into closed spaces. This applies particu-larly to meeting rooms and elevators (YOU press the button!), etc.

Walking up the stairs, your guests will walk ahead of you. Downstairs YOU lead the way.

Some ladies would still like to treated as such by gentlemen. You might want to take this into consideration. Inconspicuously direct your guests to the most convenient seats. The seat to the right of the host is usually con-sidered more comfortable than the one to the left. Make sure your guests don’t have to sit with their backs to a door or another person (it might make them feel unsafe). It is also considered helpful when guests to have to look into any lights.

Sitting across from others makes some people feel more uncomfortable than sitting across the corner or at a round table (frontal = confrontational, around corners or tables = cooperative).

2.3. Greetings

In Austria, a simple hello without shaking hands is considered much too informal. Saying “good morning” or “good day” is the appropriate thing to do.

The rule where women only rise to great older women no longer applies in business settings. During introductions, each person rises, independently of sex or age.

2.4. Doing introductions the right way

A person’s name is a part of their personality. State your first and last name loudly and clearly (not James-Bond-style!). Do NOT mention academic degrees or titles of nobility. State your job title in a way that everyone can understand what you mean (Europeans will usually use English job titles).

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2.5. Shaking hands

Extend your hand from a distance of approximately 3 meters. That way you can see who of a group a several people will approach you first. “Ladies first” only applies if everyone knows each other and there is no hierarchy. Always greet the most important person first!

If there is no hierarchy, greet the person first with whom you are familiar. This person will usually introduce you the others to you. If this isn’t done, greet one person after the other.

Your handshake should be firm, but not too firm. Ideally, you will shake hands for several seconds while looking each other in the eyes. Should you tend to have sweaty hands, try to wipe your hand first. There are also spe-cials kinds of soap and anti-perspirant products that might help.

2.6. Titles

▲ Where a large number of people with titles work in flat hierarchies, proper titles are usually not used. If you join a team as a rookie, use titles. If you are invited to so, leave them away.

▲ DO NOT USE double names!

▲ In the German speaking world, academic degrees should also be used. If someone has more than one degree, use the highest one.

▲ Titles of nobility are part of a person’s name and should be used. ‘Your Highness‘ is still used in some circles.

▲ Awarded titles should be used; however, not with the person’s spouse.

2.7 Business cards

Offer your business card when you are greeted by a new business con-tact. You will then be handed the other person’s business card. This way you both get an idea of what you need to know: Complete names, addi-tional titles, positions within the company. Let the other person explain/pronounce a foreign sounding name (opportunity for small talk!). Don’t just slide your business card across the table!. Get up and hand it to the other person.

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3. Etiquette focus: Small talk

Small talk is a light but not superficial way of making conversation with the goal of opening doors.

The first step is the most difficult one. Don’t make things too simple for yourself. Talk about things that you both have in common: Location, sur-roundings, occasion. You can also speak about the ambience: the food, the lecture, your business relationships.

Other topics might include: Cities, countries, nature, restaurants, national news, the arts, culture, lit-erature, newspapers, traveling, vacation, hobbies, sports, food, drinking, trends, jobs, working environment.

Launch a topic and if that shouldn’t work, be flexible enough to change topics. Avoid polarizing and provocative statements as well as platitudes. State your opinion in a straightforward way and leave enough room to oth-ers to respond. Don’t interrupt. Be a good listener by showing interest in what others have to say. If you are uncomfortable with the topic, try to change subjects.

Topics that need to be avoided at all costs:

Politics, religion, moral concepts and personal values; private issues such as money, health, illness, family.

4. Etiquette focus: Conversations

4.1 Appropriate communication/language

When you are trying to join a group, approach them in a visible and open way. Make eye contact with the person who is speaking at that moment. Take the opportunity to join the conversation when there is short pause. If nobody knows you in that group, take the opportunity to introduce yourself.

4.2. For those familiar with German: Polite vs. informal pronouns

Not all languages make a difference between formal and informal personal pronouns. German does. DU is used informally and SIE is the formal per-sonal pronoun.

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In German culture there are strict rules for hierarchies: The hierarchical superior decides if the informal pronoun DU should be used.

On equal hierarchical levels, the person with higher seniority decides.

On equal seniority levels, age decides.

For colleagues who are the same age, DU is matter of negotiation.

Gender makes no difference.

There is also the option of using first names WITH the formal SIE.

The question if it is okay to use informal pronouns in front of customers is usually a matter of company policy. It could possibly lead to misunder-standings and confusion if the polite SIE is used in front of foreign-lan-guage customers.

4.3. Phone conversations/greetings

Make sure that callers know that they’ve reached the right extension. “Welcome to … !“ followed by “good morning” (or whatever might apply) and your name. If necessary, mention your department.

Avoid speaking in a monotonous voice. Change your voice pitch and pro-nounce clearly. This will want to make people pay more attention.

After greeting the speaker, let them state their request. Only then is it your turn to talk again.

Address people by their name and focus on your conversation.

Don’t chew gum, don’t file papers or type on your computer (unless the caller knows you are supposed to be typing).

Use short sentences. More than 10 words in a row are hard to keep track of in a phone conversation. Pause and hold.

Repeat figures and numbers. Spell names.

These things help in avoiding embarrassing mistakes.

At the end of the phone conversation repeat the most important issues and agreements covered. Thank the caller.

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5. Etiquette focus: Basic manners

5.1. Office manners

If you would like to work in peace, be sure to discuss the rules of teamwork. If everyone sticks to these rules, then you can remind each other of them, thus allowing everyone to work purposefully and successfully.

Say hello when you enter your office first thing in the morning.

Before entering other people’s office, be sure to knock even if you are expected.

Only use other people’s workplace after having asked for permission to do so. Use the phone or talk to others in the room in a low voice if there are people at work. Keep private objects at a minimum on your desk. “Please,” “thank you” and “excuse me“ should be used frequently, even with coworkers. Polite gestures, such as opening a door for someone, are always a good idea.

5.2. Manners at the restaurant, theater and other events

Leave your coat, large bags and umbrellas at the checkroom. Gentlemen will help ladies with their coat.

At a restaurant, men will lead ladies to the table unless the waiter does the leading. In that case, ladies will go first. If two couples are going to the table, the ladies will go in the middle. When leaving the table, ladies go first.

Should other people have to stand up for you to get your seats, make your way through the row by facing people. Arm rests are often designed for two seats. Don’t hog them. And don’t clap when it’s not time to clap.

5.3. Cellphones and smoking

Always turn your cellphone off during meetings and meals. If you are expecting an important call, make sure to let the other person know about that. Try not to use your phone in quiet zones and public buildings. Smok-ers are supposed to pick up on the following hints: No ash trays mean no smoking! As long as your host doesn’t smoke, you are not welcome to smoke either. Only light up cigars or pipes after asking for permission!

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5.4. Congratulating, gifts and condolences Most good wishes are quickly forgotten, so turn them into something interesting! In a professional setting be sure to use high-quality paper (no printed matter!) and write by hand. Here are the basics for wishing some-one well: Address the recipient by name, mention the occasion, express your good wishes, mention the gift (if appropriate), greet and sign your name. It is always appropriate to create something special. Use the same level if language you would normally use when speaking with this person. Avoid empty phrases.

A gift ought to be nice surprise, so don’t choose what YOU would like, but what the recipient would like. The personal value of a gift should be more important than costs.

Flowers are best given as a mixed bouquet in order to avoid any undesir-able hidden meanings. Remove paper, leave protective plastic wrapping.

Written condolences are necessary, in case of bereavement. A letter is much more personal than a store-bought card. Do not use letterhead paper. Do not use any closing formulas. A phone call is not an appropriate sub-stitute for a written letter of condolence. It can be, however, an additional way of expressing your sympathy.

6. Etiquette focus: Foreign countries

6.1. Etiquette and manners in other countries

If you don’t want to embarrass yourself in a more and more global soci-ety, then you need to familiarize yourself with international dos and don’ts. Learn more about dress and grooming in other countries and find out more about their traditions and customs.

Nobody will expect you to completely integrate yourself and be perfect from Day 1, but you will be a welcome guest if you are open for new things and willing to accept others. It will literally open doors if you learn to say please and thank-you and hello in the local language.

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Since many managers do business abroad over lunch or dinner (see Eti-quette focus: Restaurant manners), you should familiarize yourself with international table manners.

Here are some foreign customs:

France: Always order at least 3 courses

Italy: Everything is relaxed. People get together to enjoy themselves and celebrate pleasure and indulgence

Russia: Vey large serving sizes. If you clean up your plate, you will be served even more. Toasts must be returned. Everyone has to join in “Down in one!“

Arabic world: No alcohol. Please only use your right hand for eating. Refus-ing food is considered impolite. Leave a small bit on your plate to signal that you are full.

China: Smacking and slurping is permitted. Leave a small bit on your plate to signal that you are full.

India: Vegetarian dishes are always a good choice. Use silverware in restaurants; otherwise, use your right hand for eating.

Japan: It’s okay to lift your rice or soup bowl to your mouth. Toasts must be returned. Whoever asks for the restaurant bill is expected to pay.

U.S.A.: Some people only use forks or spoons. Table manners are casual. After coffee you are immediately presented with the check.

Korea: Use chopsticks or spoons. The guest of honor or the oldest person will begin to eat first. Smacking and slurping is permitted.

Etiquette focus: Helpful hints

▲ You are blushing. Try as hard das possible to blush even more. You will see that blushing gets better.

▲ You forgot the other person’s name? Ask for help instead of using a wrong name. You only forgot a name, not a person. Use mnemonics to help remember names.

▲ Gossip poisons a good team. You’ll have an audience, but soon there-after a lousy reputation.

▲ Are you not sure about what to wear and the dress code? Play it safe, even if you have to call the host for information.

▲ You are having a cough attack during a show or a play? No one will question your intent if you relax and leave the theatre as quickly as possible.

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▲ Should you arrive at the restaurant ahead of your host, wait in the lobby or at the bar. If this is impossible, then take a seat. Get up again when the other guests arrive. Your host will decide who sits where.

▲ You dropped your napkin? You tipped your glass over? In fancy restau-rants there will always be a waiter to help you. Accept such help.

▲ Should your cellphone start ringing, then apologized and turn it off. If you must answer the call, then leave the room and only explain the reason when you return without creating even more disturbance.

▲ Admit mistakes. “I just really put my foot in it! Please help me!“

7. Etiquette focus: Dining out

7.1. Table manners

Some people will watch your table manners to see if you can present your-self flawlessly in public. This is why it’s good to know what you’re doing.

Sit down at the table leaving about five inches between you and the table and keep your back close to the backrest of the chair.

Place the napkin on your lap as soon as the meal is ordered. Dab you lips with the napkin before you take a sip of your drink. Should you need to get up, place the napkin loosely next to your plate or on your chair. At the end of the meal, place the napkin next to your plate.

When you are resting or talking, your knife stays on the FOUR o'clock position with blade turned inward and your fork at the EIGHT o'clock position with tines up. To indicate that you have finished eating, the uten-sils are placed together on the plate with the fork tines up and the knife turned inward in the lower, right-hand portion of the plate.

Work your way from the outside in, as far as using the cutlery is concerned. The waiter will arrange your cutlery before serving dessert. Do not use a knife for salad, dumplings, pasta and egg dishes. If using fingers is in order, finger bowls will be provided.

If you need to remove something from your mouth, use the fork. Never use a tooth pick at the dinner table.

You may raise your glass in a toast independent of what you are drink-ing. However, this is not done when there are a large number of guests present. In this case, toasts are only proposed at very special occasions.

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When attempting a dinner speech, do not get people’s attention by clinking your knife against your glass, but instead trust the power of your voice.

There is no need to wait for the person next to you to go the buffet table. Never take your plate with you to the buffet table. Take small servings. You can always go a second time. Never eat or drink at the buffet. On the other hand, you can start eating even if people are still waiting in line.

7.2. Being a guest and host

As a guest it is your responsibility to make the host feel like his or her efforts are appreciated and to do your best to make the party a success.

RSVP. Be sure to do that. Promptly. Say thank-you for an invitation four different times: when you RSVP, when you arrive, when you leave, and the day after. Either by phone or in writing.

If you have to decline an invitation, please note the following: The more important your host is and the shorter the notice is, the better and more convincing your reason has to be.

If you are the host, choose the right way of inviting people: What is the occasion? What meal and entertainment are you serving? What should peo-ple be wearing? Also, be sure your invitation includes a map with explana-tions, if necessary.

Introduce guests to each other, should they be unfamiliar with each other. Mention their full name and title, etc. Mention the names of the guests that have just arrived; then mention the names of the people who are already present.

The host will indicate that the meal is about to begin by raising his or her glass. With a larger number of people, do not propose a toast by having everyone clink their glasses. As soon as everyone is served, the host will formally glance across the company and begin to eat.

7.3. Business meals

Different from two- or three-course lunches (often with no alcohol served), business dinners are usually held at night.

If you are hosting the meal, you need to reserve a nice table and select the courses in advance. Think about where the guests should be sitting.

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You will need to be able to see the servers. The seat to your right belongs to the most important guest. Across from this person, the second most import-ant guest gets to sit and next to that person maybe one of your employees (to hand bread, etc. )

Wine-tasting is done by the host, or by the waiter (if asked to do so).

The meal is not paid for in front of the guests. You will need to take care of that discreetly or afterwards.

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8. Self-presentation and image-building

In order to present yourself authentically and confidently, as well as to com-municate a positive image of your company, it is important to think about how you affect other people. This is why you will now create your image profile.

What values are important to me?

What message should my outside appearance convey about myself? Professionally:

Personally:

What are my strengths? What makes me particularly qualified? What distinguishes me from other people?

Which target group am I trying to reach?

What company values do I underscore particularly well?

What would I have to change for my self-image and the way others per-ceive me to agree?

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9. Personal style

Individual style consists of a harmonious interplay between your exterior body with its shape, proportions, height, grooming, color types and your inner self, which is hidden to a certain degree. It includes your character, personality and values, but also how you express yourself in terms of body language, facial expressions and gestures, your voice and pronunciation.

In order to find a good style, you will need to know how you want others to see you.

▲ How do I want to be seen by others?

▲ How can I be seen by others?

▲ How do others actually see me?

Here are some options:

activeaffluentaloofamicableartisticbuoyantcaringcasualcheerfulconspicuouscontrolledcourageouscourteouscreativecultivated determineddignifieddistinctelegantendearingenergeticenigmaticenthusiasticexpressive

exuberantformalfriendlyfunnygenerousgentlegood-temperedhappyhelpfulimaginativeindependentingeniousintellectualinterestinglaid-backlivelynaturalopen-mindedorderlypatientpersuasiveplayfulpowerfulpractical

reassuringrefreshingrelaxedromanticself-confidentsensitivesexysinceresociablespiritedstrongstylishsuccessfulsweettendertraditionaltrustworthyunassumingunderstandingunflappable versatilevibrantvital

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My personal style that I prefer/ways of combining items of clothing

My preferred style in business

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10. Styling

10.1. Body check

Emphasize the positive attributes of your body and try to conceal any weak points by choosing flattering patterns and styles. For this you have to know the shape of your body and its proportions.

Now you are ready to choose the most flattering necklines, lapels, collars, and cuts for your shirts, jackets, slacks, suits, and accessories.

10.2. Styling rules

▲ The taller a person or the longer a part of the body is, the more it looks good to divide or interrupt the pattern or “flow.”

▲ The shorter a person or a part of the body is, the less you should divide or interrupt the flow.

You can divide or interrupt the flow with colors or shapes.

Remember: Color has a more poignant effect than shape.

▲ The plumper a person or a part of the body is, the more flowing and soft the silhouette should be.

▲ The thinner a person or part of the body is, the fuller a silhouette may be.

▲ Vertical lines create a more slender look, horizontal lines make you look wider.

10.3. Basic rules for optical illusions

Lighter colors appear first in contrast to darker colors, which stand back

The same is true for shiny vs. matt fabrics and patterned vs. single colors. Knowing this, you can either emphasize or de-emphasize certain parts of your body.

10.4. Proportion

Proportions of clothing items, fabrics, accentuations and accessories should harmonize with your size and girth.

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11. My personal styling ideas

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12. Colors and signals

Colors are a form of nonverbal communication Just like smells, colors go directly to the brain’s emotional center, triggering similar reactions in people all over the world. Each color has a distinct mes-sage and can improve your performance, meetings or negotiations.

Use the power of colors! Being aware of what responses colors can trigger in people, you will know what signal you are sending to others, thus being able to convey a higher degree of competency and self-confidence.

Red is the color of power Red is powerful, strong, flashy, overt, extroverted, optimistic, passionate, an eye-catcher; it stands for energy, love, passion, sexiness, self-confidence, pleasure, courage, but also for chaos, egotism, revolution and danger. It is an alarm color.

Yellow is the color of communication Yellow is happy, optimistic, inspiring, sensitive; it stands for light, bright-ness, friendliness, solutions, change, curiosity, a thirst for knowledge, self-development, enlightenment, but also for avarice, jealousy and envy. It is a warning color.

Blue is the color of competency Blue is cool, delightful, quiet, still, peaceful; it stands for depth, loyalty, bonding, respectability, honesty, tradition, order, yearning, vastness, but also for boredom, dreaming and coldness. It is the color of orderliness.

Green is the color of harmony Green is calming, counterbalancing, relaxing, stands for hope, growth, nature, stability, self-respect, harmony, safety and security, peace, content-ment, but also for immaturity, stagnation and poison. It is the color of safety and security.

Orange is the color of activity Orange is warm, active, natural; it stimulates the sense, it is loud, adventur-ous and stands for zest for life, self-confidence, autonomy, communication, affluence, fire, fertility, but also for pushiness and shadiness.

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Purple is the color of dominion Purple is solemn, festive, striking, enigmatic, unsettled; it stands for auton-omy, extravagance, dignity, cleverness,; it is the color of kings; it stands for dominion, spirituality, but also for aggression, mysticism, deceit and vanity.

White White is fresh, clean, distinct, minimalistic, light, sterile, hard, boring, invi-olable; it stands for innocence, purity, wisdom, perfection, holiness, but also for coldness, emptiness and sacrifice.

Gray Gray is unassuming, matter-of-fact, neutral, elegant, respectable, old-fash-ioned; it stands for discretion, submission, and age, but also for inconspic-uousness, paleness, hopelessness and boredom.

Black Black is mysterious, introverted, narrow, hard, heavy, strict, evil; it stands for night, elegance, power, constriction, depth, withdrawal, raciness and eroticism but also for rebellion, violence, death, grieving and forbidden things.

12.1. Using colors

▲ Select the best colors for your own personal color type and pay atten-tion to what different nuances do.

▲ Never use more than 2 big and basic color groups. If you are using a third one, choose a neutral color.

▲ Pay attention to how you distribute basic colors and light and strong colors.

▲ Try using the same color for different things (for example, your shirt and your tie are the same color, or your necklace and belt, etc.)

12.2. Individual color harmony

Color typology based on seasonal color analysis is based on the work by the Swiss painter and art teacher Johannes Itten.

Colors and People:

Pigments in hemoglobin, carotene, and melanin create a person’s color typology that is expressed through skin, eyes and hair.

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The following color criteria come in pairs:

▲ Color composition (cool – warm)

▲ Color intensity (light – dark)

▲ Degree of clarity (clear – subdued)

The aim is to achieve harmony between a person’s natural, own colors and those colors that you add (through clothing, accessories, hair, etc.). The right colors will give a person a fresher, younger and more harmonious look.

MY MOST IMPORTANT COLOR CRITERIA

MY PERSONAL COLORS – HELPFUL IDEAS and combinations

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13. Dress codes

Dress codes are local. They also depend on the occasion and on customs typical for a certain line of business or leisure activities.

13.1 Local dress codes

Culture, customs and a number of other influences have determined and still continue to determine rules concerning dress and grooming in differ-ent countries.

Please be sure to always ask about any applicable dress codes and codes of behavior in different countries in order to avoid putting your foot in your mouth, or even worse!

In the world of business, local dress codes are becoming more and more international and global. However, should you be invited to dinner or receive a private invitation, be sure to inquire concerning local dress codes instead of insisting on your own.

13.2. Dress codes depending on the occasion

Social settings and other influences determine these dress codes.

Here are some examples of formal dress codes often to be found printed on an invitation:

▲ “Casual” – Casual does not mean showing up in your sweats. Casual means jeans and a blazer/shirt, no tie, maybe a sweater.

▲ “Smart-casual” – This means at least jeans and a blazer/suit coat with and shoes. Ladies: coat and skirt or pantsuit, top and jewelry. Men: A suit and polo shirt instead of a dress shirt, or a dress shirt and scarf tie.

▲ “Dark suit or elegant clothing” – This means that jeans are absolutely taboo. Women: Suit or pant suit, maybe even “that little black num-ber.” Men: Dark suit, dress shirt and light-colored necktie.

▲ “Smoking – cocktail dress – black tie” – This means a tuxedo for men and a (short) dress for women.

▲ “Tail coat/cutaway – evening dress – white tie” – Men will wear a tail coat or cutaway (not after 5 p.m.); women will wear an evening gown/dress. For weddings a cocktail dress (and a jacket at night) is acceptable.

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Some examples of dress codes depending on certain occasions

▲ Celebrations: Suit; a dress that is not patterned too much. Light colors for the day, dark colors at night.

▲ Weddings: Hats for ladies if the mother of the bride will be wearing a hat. No white, no black, just pastel colors or neutral colors. An ele-gant dress or more – see above. Material: Depending on the season. Men: A suit with a light-colored tie or more – see above, e.g.., a tailcoat.

▲ Funerals: Black. Gloves, dark sunglasses, if necessary.

▲ Evening dinner: No business casual! Top quality fabrics, dark colors, elegant shoes. Ladies: Heavier jewelry.

As always, be aware of local customs (see Local Dress Codes). When it comes to deciding on what to wear there is a big difference if the event is supposed to take place during the day or at night, indoor or outdoor.

13.3. Business-customary dress codes

Rules on what to wear at work depend on the following:

▲ The line of business

▲ Type of work/where you work

▲ Status/position

▲ Corporate philosophy

▲ The occasion (meetings, appointments with customers, trade shows, negotiations, official representation, just sitting at your desk).

Business casual: Management positions in business and banking usually require classic muted colors such as dark blue, bluish-gray, gray, cam-el-color, dark brown, white.

Classic styles, simple and high-quality cuts.

Creative jobs: Here, style can be more casual. Creativity is often expressed through very individualistic or even outlandish styles. Of course, there is always a hierarchy that needs to be maintained within the company. (Therefore, employees should go by what their superiors wear).

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As a rule, the following applies:

Professionalism is shown through clear and simple styles and neutral colors.

Creativity is shown through an individualistic or even colorful or unusual style.

Respect for a cause or another person is shown through a well-groomed appearance and high-quality, well-matched attire.

What are the signals people send by wearing inappropriate attire?

I do not find it necessary to …

I want to make a point of …

I feel like provoking you …

I don’t care …

I am clueless …

Appropriate attire underscores a person’s personality and competence. It shows that a person is capable of differentiating between different sit-uations in life.

14. Business attire

The following suggestions apply to business attire:

Colors: Wardrobe basics in the white, cream, beige, camel-color, dark blue, dark green, all brown and gray shades, anthracite-colored, taupe, black.

- They can be combined with all harmonious colors that match your type.

- NEVER use more than 2 big color blocks.

Fabrics: Wrinkle-resistant, soft fabrics, high quality and well-made (e.g. Merino wool, Cool Wool, combed yarn, camel hair, cashmere wool, wool, cotton and mixed fabric).

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Styles should match the shape, features, and proportions of your body. NEVER: Too tight, too wide, too short or too long.

Patterns should match your personality; in a business setting they should NEVER be too big, eye-catching, unsubtle, or humorous.

Accessories should always match your style and physical appearance. Often, accessories can be used as an opportunity to turn a rather neutral and formal outfit into something special or individual. Accessories in a business setting should always be tasteful and stylish.

Try to afford outfits that will yield the best possible value for the money you can afford. Quality always shows, especially after having worn items of clothing a lot. Also, look for excellent fit because even an expensive suit that doesn’t fit well looks sloppy.

Be sure to look for a professional combination of colors, fabrics, patterns, and accessories. Outfits that are either too conservative or too shrill will not help you present yourself in an appropriate way.

The following are absolute DON’TS for business attire:

Women

▲ Low cleavage/neckline

▲ Short (mini)skirts (at least knee-length!)

▲ Transparent looks

▲ Too much skin (cover your shoulders and midriff region!)

▲ Slacks with low-fitting hemlines

▲ Too much costume jewelry

▲ Pantyhose with runs (keep a second pair handy!)

▲ Fishnet stockings

▲ Socks when wearing pumps

▲ Sandals, flip-flops

▲ (Makeup) stains in your clothing

▲ Chipped nail polish and (artificial) fingernails that are too long

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Men

▲ White socks, ill-fitting socks (and in a business setting: colored socks)

▲ Slacks at half-mast

▲ Belly-burst shirts

▲ Neckties (too short/too long)

▲ Visible gold necklaces

▲ Comb-overs or ill-fitting toupees

▲ A bad shave

▲ Visible chest hair above the collar

▲ Visible cigarette boxes, pens or cell phones in shirt pockets

Both

▲ Clothing too tight/too slim-fitting

▲ Worn clothing

▲ Crumpled clothing, wrinkles and stains

▲ Bad fake brands

▲ Obvious cheap brands, especially shoes, handbags, and belts

▲ Dirty shoes and worn-down heals

▲ Dirty, unmanicured fingernails

▲ Greasy hair

▲ Visible hair (armpits, legs)

▲ Dandruff

▲ Tattoos, piercings, plugs

▲ Too much/bad, unsuitable perfume

▲ Body odor, sweat marks

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15. Checklist for your personal appearance and image

▲ I am making an effort to work on my image.

▲ My appearance underscores my abilities.

▲ I know the difference between my self-image and how others see me.

▲ I can describe my outside appearance in 2 to 3 sentences (so that another person would be able to recognize me).

▲ Some of the ways I dress make me recognizable.

▲ I have external features that make me unmistakable.

▲ I am aware of the strengths and weaknesses of my external features and I know how to use them.

▲ I know how to define my style.

▲ My wardrobe is an expression of my style.

▲ I’ve found a clothes brand/label that matches my style.

▲ My body language and gait underscore my style.

▲ I’m aware of the fact that my posture influences my feelings and what I radiate.

▲ My voice and intonation match my personality.

▲ Even in unknown realms I know how to act assured and with self-confidence.

▲ I am familiar with dress codes and etiquette.

▲ No matter what role I have to take on, I am always myself and I act in an authentic manner.

▲ I am capable of underscoring our company philosophy by means of my personality.

▲ I know what I really want and I am willing to work for that.

▲ I can inspire people with my own enthusiasm.

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16. Questions

(1) Are you distinctive ? Do you have a brand labeled ME? What are its characteristics?

(2) What features of our company philosophy can you underscore by means of your personality?

(3) How would you introduce yourself to a business partner who doesn’t know you (name, job title, company, etc.)?

(4) Which topics are suitable for small talk?

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(5) Which rules of etiquette apply to a business dinner?

(6) Do you always foot the bill (if you are hosting)?

(7) How do you express co-operation when talking to a customer?

(8) Do you ALWAYS greet a lady first in a business setting, even though she is lower-ranked?

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17. Tables

Figure 1: Circle, first impressions and self

18. Bibliography

Mehrabian, Albert: Silent messages. Belmont, CA, 1971

19. Recommended reading (German)

Schäfer-Elmayer, Th.: Der Business Elmayer – so verbinden Sie Karriere mit Stil. Ecowin Verlag, 2007

Wrede-Grischkat, R.: Manieren und Karriere – internationale Verhalten-sregeln für Führungskräfte. Gabler Verlag, 2001

Uhl, G. und Uhl-Vetter, E: Business-Etikette in Europa. Gabler Verlag, 2004

Commer, H. und vonThadden,J: Managerknigge –das internationale ABC der erfolgreichen Umgangsformen. Econ Verlag. 2002

Schmidt-Hildebrand, A. und Hildebrand, D.: Image + Stil=Erfolg! Redline Verlag, 2008

Piras, C. und Roetzel, B.: Die Lady - Handbuch der klassischen Damen-mode. Monte Verlag, 2004

Roetzel, B: Der Gentlemen – Handbuch der klassischen Herrenmode. Tandem Verlag, 2009

Cerwinka, G. und Schranz, G.: Beim ersten Eindruck gewinnen - Profes-sionell agieren in Alltag und Business. Linde Verlag, 2006

Greisinger, M.: Ihr ICH als unverwechselbare Marke. Edition Stoareich, 2006

voestalpine AGvoestalpine-Strasse 14020 Linz, AustriaT. +43/50304/15-0F. +43/50304/15/55+Ext.www.voestalpine.com

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1.3.1. Business Etiquette

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