133172999 Black Decker Finishing Refinishing Wood

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BlACK&DECKER

inishing& RefinishingTechniques &Projects forFine Wood Finishes

(jCreative PUbiishi. IngIntemationa

CHANHASSEN, MINNESOTAwww.creativepub .com


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(jCIwIMNllltingIIIIIl!rNIIoNICopyright 2006Creative Publishing international, Inc.18705 Lake Drive EastChanhassen, Minnesota 553171-800-328-3895www .creativepub.comAll rights reservedPrinted in China10987654321

President/CEO: Ken FundPublisher: Bryan TrandemAssistant Managing Editor: Tracy StanleySenior Editor: Mark JohansonSenior Art Director: Jon SimpsonPhoto Editor: Julie CarusoCreative Director, Photography: Tim HimselLead Photographer: Steve GalvinScene Shop Carpenter: Randy AustinProduction Manager: Linda Halls

FINISHING & REFINISHING WOODCreated by: The Editors of Creative Publishing intemational , Inc., incooperation wi th Black & Decker. Black & Decker'" is a trademar1< ofThe Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.


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Library of CongressCataloging-in-Publication DataFinishing & refinishing wood: techniques & projects for fine woodfinishes.p.cm.Includes index.

ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-288-4 (soft cover)ISBN-10: 1-58923-288-7 (soft cover)1. Furniture finishing. 2. Finishes and finishing. I. Title:Finishing and refinishing wood.TT199.4.F46742006684'.084--dc22 2006012737


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Contents

Introduction ................... . . . 5 Evaluating &Planning . ................... 14Why Refinish? ....... . . . . . ............. . ....... Evaluating Furniture ......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Refinishing Wood: Evaluating Wood Floors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20A Step-by-step Overview ............... . . . . ....12 Evaluating Woodwork . . . . . . ............... . . . . . . . 21Identifying Old Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Selecting a New Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... . . . . . . . 24Tools for Finishing........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Safety, Cleanup & Disposal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

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Refinishing Basics ................... .34Removing Old Finishes . ..... . ... . ......... . . 36Mak ing Basic Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........ . . . . .46Preparing for the Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54Coloring Wood ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60Painting Wood ........ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........ 6Applying Topcoats . . . ...... . . . . . . . . . ........ . . .78Hardware & Accessories . . . . . . . ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . .94

Case Studies ...................... .98Rocking Chair . . . . . . . . . ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102Sewing Machine Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......104Dining Chair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Reproduction Mission Finish . . . . ...... . . . . . . . . . . . 108Chest of Drawers ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Frame-and-panel Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Cedar Chest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........... . . . 114Antique Mantel Clock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Tip-Top Table . . . . . ...... . ........ . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Music Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... . . . . . .120Antique Radio Console ........ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Double-hung Window . ........... . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Woodwork & Door . . . . ........... . . . . . .. . . . . . . .126Wood Floor . . . . ...... . . ......... . . ......... . . .130School Desks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .......134Maintenance &Quick Fixes ............. .136Index ............................... 40

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Introduction

/---, n old rocking chair, a we ll-used cedar{ - chest, a hardwood floor that has lost its luster- anywhere you look aroun d your home, you arelike ly to find a poten tial refinishing project. But eventhe most ardent dO- it-yourselfers often draw the lineat refinishing. They have a vis ion of refinishing that isfi lled with messy, harsh chemicals and endless sand ing and scraping . In reality, refinishing and finishingwood is a manageable process that can yield professional -qua lity resu lts with surpris ing ly little mess andfuss if you use the right too ls and techn iques.Refi nishi ng furniture is an adventure. It begins in attics, antique stores, or at garage sales; usually withthe question, "Wo uld n't that look nice if .. ?" And themo re invo lved yo u become in a project, the morequestions yo u encounte r: How can I unlock the pote ntial of that old sewing cab ine t? Wha t is the bestway to sand the grooves on a rocking chair sp ind le?Sho uld I use chemicals or a heat gun to remove theold finish on my an tique clock?Finishing &Refinishing Wood gives yo u all the information yo u need to b rin g new life and a lasting fin ishto furn iture, floors, an d woodwork. It takes youthrough every phase of the refin ishing and fin ish ingprocess: eva luating o ld furniture and f in ishes to deve lop a refin ishing strategy; making mi nor repa irs likefi lling gouges and reg lu ing joint s; removing an old finish with a heat gun or chemical st ri pper; f in ish sanding and f illing wood grain; colorin g and topcoatin gnew and stripped wood ; revamping hardware andother accessories; and more.We also give you the most up-to-d ate in fo rmation onnew refinishing and fin ishing products that are saferto use and sa fer fo r the envi ronmen t. Di sposal,sa fety, and c leanu p issues are exam ined in detail.

As a special bonu s, Finishing &Refinishing Woodcontains a section featuring 15 separate case st udiesthat take the mystery out of refin ish ing. The sectionleads yo u step-by-step th rough the refi nish ingprocess, provid ing insight in to the decisions tha tmake any project a success. Yo u will find c lear ex amples addressing the same chal lenges yo u arefacing-and offering solutions for meeting thosechal lenges.From cleaning a dirty wax fin ish, to re pairing, stripping, sa nd ing, and ref in ishing an old piece of furn itur e, the sk ills yo u lea rn in Finishing & RefinishingWood are do-it-yourself abi lities that you wi ll useaga in and again to add value and restore beauty toyo ur wo rn -but-stu rdy woodwork and fu rni tu re.

NOTICE TO READERSThis book provides useful instructions, but we cannot anticipate all of your working conditions or thecharacteristics of your materials and tools. Forsafety, you should use caution, care, and goodjudgment when following the procedures describedin this book. Consider your own skill level and theinstructions and safety precautions associated withthe various tools and materials shown. Neither thepublisher nor Black & Decke r can assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury topersons as a result of misuse of the informationprovided.Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws asthey apply to your project.

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Restore lost beauty .A new finish and a fewnew accessories give

fresh life to aforgotten pieceof furniture.Pages 122 to 123.

Why Refinish?ef inishing wood is morethan just another do-it-yourself skill. Practical skills like carpentry, plumbing , or wiring helpyou save money and make sureyour home improvements aredone the right way. But giving newlife to an old rocking chair bytransforming it from an eyesore toa centerpiece gives you a specialsense of satisfaction.

Studies have shown that mostpeople who have made a hobby ofrefinishing are not in it for any kindof financial advantage. They do itbecause it is fun. A successful refinishing project brings out theartist, historian, and the creativecaretaker in even the most practical-minded do-it-yourselfer. Mostpeople who successfully completeone refinishing project becomehooked-they enjoy it enough totake on additional projects.Beyond the feelings of fun andpride inspired by the process,there are many practical benefitsto refinishing and finishing wood.A well-executed refinishing jobcan increase the value of a wornout article. Buying fine furniture inthe rough and refinishing it is aninexpensive way to decorate yourhome. And refinishing old furnitureis an excellent form of recyclingnot on ly does it eliminate the disposal problem, it also preservesresources that would be used tocreate a replacement.A new finish makes your favoriteold furniture last longer by protecting it from moisture, heat, andspills. Increasing your understanding of wood finishes gives you allthe background you need to properly maintain and care for wood.


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Uncover buried treasure.A plain painted cabinet isunmasked to revealfine furniture.Pages 104 to 105.

Unleash potential.A chair plagued by loose jointsand layers of old paint is trans-formed into a classic Americanantique. Pages 102 to 103.

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WhyRefinish?Put a fine finish on new wood.An unfinished, kit-built tablegets a first-classfinish treatment.Pages 118 to 119.

Make the ordinary extraordinary.A plain pine dresser getsa serious sprucing up.Pages 110 to 111 .


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Extend a life.A cedar chest confined tobasement storage dutybecomes a showpiece.Pages 114 to 115.

Preserve an heirloom.A chestnut dresser with hand-cut dovetail jointson the drawers has been in the family for years.

A fresh new finish ensures that it will be in thefamily for generations to come.Pages 12 to 13

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Why Refinish?Make time for fun. A quick cleanup andsome creativity excite the imaginationand save a valuable antique.Pages 116 to 117.

Step out in style.A frame-and-panel cabinet isdressed up to showcase itsdistinctive styling.Pages 112 to 113.


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Make a house a home.Refinished floors ,woodwork, and doors

brighten a dreary room.Pages 126 to 133.


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Evaluate the potential project before you start.Look for good wood, solid construction and othersigns that indicate a strong likelihood of success.

1 emove the old finish. Heat stripping, chemical stripping,and sanding are the primary methods for removing an oldfinish. Most projects require more than one removal method.12

RefinishingWood:A Step-by-stepOverview

his overview sequenceshows the basic how-to steps

in a major refinishing project- fromevaluating potential projects to attaching the last piece of hardware.Your own refinishing or finishingproject may require all these steps,or perhaps only a few. To help determine which steps your plannedproject requires- and how to accomplish them-browse throughthe Case Studies section at theend of this book .

2Make basic repairs. Fixing problems, like the loose stretchers we reglued here, ensures that your completed projectwill be sturdy as well as beautiful.


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3 repare for the finish. Fixing flaws like dents and gougesthen thoroughly finish sanding are essential steps in creat-ing a smooth surface suitable for staining and topcoating.

5 pply a topcoat. A hard, clear finish layer applied over thewood protects it from moisture and scratches, seals in thecolor, and adds depth to the finish.

4 olor the wood. Use penetrating oil or stain to enrich a grainpattern, create a pleasing color, or even to hide flaws in thewood. In some cases, paint is used instead of stain for a moredecorative appearance. Or, you may prefer to skip the wood-coloring step altogether and let the natural color and beauty ofthe wood speak for itself.

6 omplete the project. Refurbish or replace hardware andother accessories to provide the final touch to a refinishingproject.13


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Evaluating& Planning


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Remove hardware and other attachments from painted furniture and woodwork to uncover useful information about the old finishand the type and condition of the wood.

Evaluating & Planningotential refinishing projects can be found invirtually every home, garage, and antique store.But the fact that a piece of furniture or a floor is old orworn out does not necessarily make it a good candidate for refinishing. The wood could be damaged beyond repair , or the finish may be too stubborn to beremoved completely. Many times , stripping a piece offurniture only reveals that the paint was there for areason- to cover damaged or unattractive wood. Butfor every project that is a risky refinishing choice ,there is another that has the possibility of great success. Learning to distinguish between a wise choiceand a waste of time is simply a matter of knowingwhat to look for ,This section shows you some warning signs andsome indicators of good potential, We tell you how toestimate what certain problems mean in terms oftime , expense, and likelihood of success, But the ultimate decision on whether or not to proceed with aproject is up to you: keep in mind that sometimes themost ill-advised project turns out wonderfully- especially if it has sentimental value to the refinisher,16

Once you have chosen a refinishing or finishing project, make a plan, Having a new finish in mind helpsyou make decisions, like choosing a finish-removalmethod, or determining how thoroughly to sand thewood. Once you decide what repairs need to bemade, for example , you can more accurately estimate the time commitment and cost of the project.But stay flexible when planning, Refinishing is full ofsurprises, and plans inevitably require modificationas you learn more about your project.

THI S SECTION SHOWS:Evaluating Furniture " " " " " " " ' " ,pages 17 to 19Evaluating Wood Floors "" . """" ,page 20Evaluating Woodwork "" ' . , . , . ,"" ,page 21Identifying Old Finishes " " '. ' ,"" '" ,pages 22 to 23Selecting a New Finish """ . "",." ,pages 24 to 27FinishingTools " " " " " " " " " " " ,pages 28 to 29Safety, Cleanup & Disposal ",., . ,"" ,pages 30 to 33


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Eva luatingFurniture

valuating potential furniturerefinishing projects is basica lly a four-step process: 1) studythe wood to identify the type andassess its general condition; 2)evaluate structural soundness andidentify needed repairs; 3) evaluatethe condition of the wood surfacesto determine if an attractive finish ispossible; 4) evaluate the condition ofthe finish to decide if it needs to bestripped off, or if cleaning and a fewquick fixes will bring it back to life.Also consider the age and va lueof the potential project. If it is avaluable antique, you probablyshould not choose it as your firstrefinishing experiment.Based on your evaluation , makea decision about the project: is thefinal result likely to be worth theeffort?

Partially strip finish in an inconspicuous area so you can examine the wood moreclosely (strip a large enough section to allow you to evaluate how effectively the chemical stripper dissolves the paint, too).

Look for written clues like a manufacturer's name, a date, ora place of origin, to help you establish the age, value, and finish type. In some cases, a previous owner may have left a cluebehind, like a receipt, an old piece of newspaper lining adrawer, or a note detailing the history of the piece. If you suspect the potential project is an antique, have it appraised by aprofessional before you do anything with it.

Examine hidden areas for information about the wood and thequality of the workmanship. Examining this dresser drawer, forexample, revealed hand-cut dovetail joints that were still stu rdyafter more than 100 years of wear-sure signs the dresser wasbuilt with care. NOTE: There may be several types of wood in asingle piece of furniture, so do not base all your conclusions onjust one area.

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How to Evaluate Potential

I Evaluate the wood. The type of wood used in a piece offurniture has a great effect on its value and its suitability asa refinishing project. The two cabinets shown above are aboutthe same size and they use the same type of joinery, but thesimilarities end there. One cabinet (left) looks old and battered,

2 valuate the structural soundness. If a potential project isplagued with many loose joints and has obviously been re-paired in the past, then there is a basic structural problem withthe piece. The two pressback rocking chairs above each showsigns of wear. One chair (left) has a crack in the seat that willrequire some repair, but the wood around the crack and at thejoints is solid. A few repairs have been attempted already , but

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but it is made of sturdy hardwood, so the chances of reviving itare good. The other (right) is built from particleboard so, de-spite the presence of hardwood veneer, its prospects of with-standing a refinishing job are not good. Because the joints aresturdy, however, it is a good candidate for painting.

they have not caused any major problems, so the chair likelycan be reclaimed. The other rocker (right) also has a crackedseat, but the wood has degenerated around the damaged area,and ineffective repair efforts caused further splintering anddamage to the wood. Because the seat would have to be re-placed, refinishing the rocker is probably not worth the effort.


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3 valuate the condition of the wood surfaces.A few suriace problems, including small dents and cracks(left) , loose veneer (center), or small burns (right), all can beremedied easily. A few such problems should not disqualify aproject from consideration. But making too many suriace repairs will add considerably to the time the project requires , and

4 valuate the condition of the finish. It is a mistake to assume that just because the finish looks worn it needs to bereplaced. Especially on antique furniture, removing the old finish can cause significant devaluation. A few finish blemishes,

you may well be disappointed with the resul t-di sguising surface repairs , especially those requiring wood putty, is a verytricky job. With newer, solid wood furniture, however, you maybe able to resuriace flat surfaces that are in poor condition using a belt sander.

like water stains (left), can be treated easily with the right techniques, preserving the old finish . More severe finish problems,like alligatored shellac (right) usually require full finish removal.

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Remove layers of wax and grime so you can see the truecondition of floor. Often, a simple cleaning with mineral spiritsis all the "refinishing" a floor needs.

'I::!.ewElr Hooring products,c l a t i r l O floor" floor-

Identify the type of flooring product. Standard 1 -thick hardwood floorboards can withstand one or two resurfacing projectswith a drum sander, but some newer flooring products can onlybe chemically stripped-they simply do not have enough woodto withstand resurfacing. Sanding parquet flooring requiresspecial sanders and is a job for professionals. Otherwise, itshould be chemically stripped.

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EvaluatingWood Floorshe condition of your floorboards is the primaryfactor in deciding if refinishing will be successful. Look for signs of rot, especially around pipes, ra-diators , and windows. Replacing floorboards is hard

work, and getting a good match is difficult. Alsocheck for dips or valleys, especially in high-traffic areas. Evaluate the overall evenness of the floors-roll agolf bailor marble across the floor in several spotsand see how it behaves. Visually, uneven floors maynot seem like a big problem, but they are next-to-impossible to sand because floor sanders do not followdips and valleys.If your floor is fairly even and fundamentally sound,your next step is to decide whether to resurface orchemically strip the old finish. Many homeownershave come to equate "doing your floors" with sandingthe surface down to bare wood, but often chemicalstripping is a more efficient method that yields betterresults. With uneven floors , parquet floors, veneeredflooring products, and floors that have already beenresurfaced, your only do-it-yourself refinishing optionis to chemically strip the finish. Resurface floors only ifmany scratches, gouges, and stains have affectedthe floorboards.

Look for signs of past resurfacing. Inexperienced floor refinishers often remove much more wood than is necessary whenthey power-sand a floor. Look near baseboards and radiatorsfor sanding ridges where the power sander could not reach. Ifsanding ridges are visible, you probably do not have enoughwood remaining above the tongues in tongue-and-groove floorboards to allow you to sand the floors again.


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EvaluatingWoodworkvaluating woodwork to determine its suitabilityfor refinishing is a more complicated issuethan evaluating floors. Condition of the wood certainly

is important- you should examine it closely for signsof deterioration or extensive damage. Woodwork isoften milled from softer wood types than floors , making it more susceptible to gouging, splintering, anddecay. The fact that woodwork was painted often indicates that it has undergone repairs, or that some ofthe woodwork is not original and will be difficult toblend in.When evaluating woodwork, note the intricateness ofthe trim pieces, particularly above doors, and checkfor detailed architectural millwork. Stripping an oldfinish from detailed woodwork can be a very timeconsuming process. Test the woodwork in a fewspots to find out if it can be removed easily for refinishing. For many people this is the most workable option- sending woodwork out for commercial strippingis a common practice. Refinishing woodwork in placeis perhaps the easier option, but it can create quite amess, and is physically demanding . Ask yourself ifyou are up to the task physically before you committo refinishing woodwork in place.Tips for EvaluatingWoodwork

Carefully remove one piece of woodwork and check theback side to identify the wood type. Also examine the ends ofthe piece to see how thick the finish is and how deeply it haspenetrated into the wood. You may even want to try strippingthe piece to assess how easily the finish comes off. Also, if thepiece was easy to remove, consider the option of removing allthe woodwork for refinishing.

Check for paint in the first finish layer. If the first layer ispaint, stripping the wood down to the natural wood color is verydifficult. Painting is your best option.

.#::"---Test the condition of the wood. Probe the woodwork with asharp instrument, especially around windows and other areaswhere moisture is present. Badly rotted woodwork should bereplaced. Minor damage can be treated with wood-hardeningproducts, but this option generally forces you to paint the woodwork. Some manufacturers, however, have introduced stainable wood hardener-ask at your local building center.

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Test the old finish with solvents to identify the topcoat material (see chart, next page). Dip a clean rag in the solvent you aretesting with, dab the finish, then look for finish residue on the

rag (give the chemical enough time to work). Always wipe thesurface lightly with mineral spirits first to remove any waxbuildup.

Identifying Old Finishesdentifying the original topcoat material is animportant stage in both the evaluation and theplanning processes. It helps you estimate how muchwork is involved in removing the topcoat. Knowing thetype of topcoat also helps determine your options forrestoring the workpiece-some finishes are easier torepair than others, and depending on what you find,you may be able to get by with minor touch-ups andcleaning. Identifying an old finish can suggest the

age of a potential project as well (see next page).To identify a finish, begin by looking for visual clues,like crazing or alligatoring (see next page, step 1). Ifyou are still unsure of the finish material based on thisinspection , try dabbing the finish with various solvents. For example , if denatured alcohol dissolves theold topcoat , the chances are good that it's shellac.And once you know it is shellac, you also know thatyou have the option of blending out surface problemswith a mixture of alcohol and shellac.22

Use a lead-testing kit to determine if paint contains lead. Aclosely regulated health hazard, lead can be found in paintmade before 1978 and was common in paint made before1950. Follow the kit manufacturer's directions carefully, makingsure you test all layers of the finish , not merely the top one. Iflead is detected, do not strip or sand the paint yourself. Take itto a professional refinisher.


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How to Identify an Old FinishOil fi nish: has a natural look, oftenwith a flat sheen, but canbe polished to high gloss frequently tinted with stainthat penetrates deep into

the wood mineral spirits will dissolveoil, but color must besanded out easy to touch up or recoat

Shellac: alligators and turns darkand gummy as it ages (left) usually has an orange castwhen dissolved very common before 1930,but still in use today dissolves easily with

denatured alcohol will bond with fresh shellacto form a solid topcoat

Lacquer: very hard finish with areflective quality; oftensprayed on ; common on pro

duction finishes brittle; will craze or fracture(left), especially whenexposed to extreme cold

chips easily dissolves and rehardens iftreated with lacquer thinner

Varnish/ po lyurethane: most newer varnish productscontain polyurethane andare fully dissolved only bystrong chemical strippers often yellows with age (left) common on refinished wood polyurethane products

cannot be recoated orrepaired, but pure varnishmay be recoated

1 ook for visual clues to the identity of the topcoat material. Different topcoats exhibit different properties as they age and are subjected to wear and exposure to air and chemicals .Mineral spirits: dissolves wax, most oiltopcoats, and purevarnish good as a general

cleaner will lighten some oilbased wood stains

Denatured alcohol: dissolves shellac oncontact evaporates quickly;must be wiped off

soon after applicationwhen used as a finishsolvent also effective on waxand as a generalcleaner

2Test with solvents to confirm the identity of the finish . If vi-sual inspection has not given you any clues, test the finish ,working from the mildest solvent to the strongest: mineral spirits, then denatured alcohol, then lacquer thinner, then chemicalstripper. To test, dab a little solvent onto a clean rag, then rub

Lacquer thinner: dissolves spray-onand brush-on lacquertopcoats

can be used to repaira lacquer finish also dissolves shellacand wax

a more volatilesolvent than mineralspirits or alcohol

Chemical stripper: the most powerfulfinish-removal agent;

cuts through varnishand polyurethane different brands aremade for differentfinish materials-

check the label hazardous chemical;use with care

the rag on the finish, preferably in an inconspicuous area. Allowtime for the solvent to work, then rub again, checking to see ifany finish residue comes up on the rag. If none of the solventsdissolve the finish , it is probably a commercial topcoat, andsanding is the only effective removal method.

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Selecting a New Finish/ good finish both protects and beautifieswood. To achieve both goals, a finish ismade up of several layers, each with its own specificpurpose. Each element of a finish should be chosen

carefully, according to the features of the wood, thefunction of the project piece, and your tastes.On new wood, apply a seal coat made of sandingsealer to create more even finish absorption andmore consistent color. For a fine finish, some woodsare best treated with grain filler instead of sealer.The next layer is the color layer, which is usuallycreated wi th wood stain or penetrating oil. Color caneither enhance or minimize grain pattern and otherwood features, and it can beautify plain wood. Withfine woods, or to create a more rustic look, the colorlayer can be omitted. Dampen the wood surface withmineral spirits to see how it will look with a clear finish. To create a specific decorative look, or to coverwood defects , apply paint as the color layer.

A typical wood finish is composed of threebasic layers: the seal coat, the color layer, and thetopcoat.

Unfinished wood

Finally, a topcoat is applied to seal the wood andprotect the finished surface from scratches and wear.Topcoats can be created with traditional finishingproducts, like tung oil, or more contemporary materials, like polyurethane. A layer or two of well-buffedpaste wax can be applied over most topcoat materials to create a glossy, protective surface that is easilyrenewable with fresh wax.When selecting a new finish, it helps if you know thewood species of your project. Softwoods, like pine,should always be treated with sanding sealer orprimer, for example. And open-grained hardwoods,like red oak or mahogany, look better when treatedwith grain filler. The finish samples on pages 26 to 27can help you identify the wood type. They also showhow some common finishes look on different woods.As a general rule, base your finish selection on color.Simply choose a color you like, then select a coloringagent and a compatible topcoat.

Topcoat layer


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Tips forNatural wood

Red oak

Pine

MapleConsider absorption rates. Some wood types absorb morefinish materials than others. depending on the porosity of thewood grain. In the photo above. the same stain was applied tothree different unsealed woods, resulting in three very differentlevels of darkness. Sealing the wood with sanding sealer or fill-ing the grain minimizes this effect.

Stripped wood with old finishresidue and obvious repair

Look for repairs, damage, and uneven color. Workpieceswith obvious damage or repairs, like the wood putty line shownabove, or with uneven wood color from old finish residue, re-quire a darker finish to disguise the wood defects.

Consider the grain pattern when choosing a finish . Highly fig-ured wood, like the walnut shown above, usually is given aclear finish so the grain is not obscured. In some cases, how-ever, tinted penetrating oil can be used to enhance an alreadystriking grain pattern. Experiment with different coloring agentson a piece of similar wood, or in an inconspicuous area of theproject, to help with the finish selection .

Combine colors to create interesting decorative effects. Con-trasting stains on the same wood type can create a dramaticfinish when used under the influence of good design sense.

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Sample Finishes: Dark

Use dark finishes to : enhance a distinctive grain pattern (A);add interest to plain wood (8); give a rich, formal look to soft-

Sample Finishes: Light

Poplar with"n,edium walnut stain

woods (C); create a traditional finish style (D) ; or simulate theappearance of a finer hardwood on inexpensive wood (E).

Maple withgolden maple

White oak withgolden-oak-tintedpenetrating oil

Use light finishes to : highlight subtle grain patterns (A); amplifyattractive wood tones (8); modify wood tones to match a particu-

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lar decor or color scheme (C); add a sense of depth (D); or giveunfinished wood a seasoned, antique appearance (E).


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Sample Finishes: Clear

Clear finishes protect and seal wood while allowing the naturalbeauty of the wood to speak for itself. Choose clear finishes for

Sample Finishes: Painted

Painted finishes mask undesirable qualities, like old finishresidue, and create decorative effects. Surface defects, like repairs, stains, knots, and holes should be filled with wood putty to

Cherry

exotic woods that are prized for their color or grain pattern , or formore common woods when a natural , rustic look is desired.

create an even surface when painted. Man-made wood products, like plywood, also benefit from painted finishes.

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Finishing Toolsor any refinishing project, you will need a fewhand and power tools to remove the old finish ,repair defects and damage, prepare the workpiece

for the new finish, and apply the new finish. Youprobably already own many of the necessary tools ,especially the more basic ones (see list right). Somehousehold items, such as old toothbrushes and cotton swabs, can also be useful in refinishing andfinishing . Other household items can be fashionedinto custom finish-removal tools. For example, an oldcredit card, cut to fit the contours , can be used as amolding scraper.

Belt sander

Detail sander

with polishingbonnet

EVERYTHING YOU NEED:

Tools: brad pusher, clamps, craft knife, hammer, nailset,razor blade scraper, rubber mallet, screwdrivers, staplegun, straightedge, tape measure, utility knife, wood chisels.Materials: dust mask, eye protection , respirator, rubbergloves, drop cloths, masking tape.

Heat gun

Power tools for finishing and refinishing include a belt sander for finish removal on large, flat surfaces; a random-orbit sander forall-purpose sanding; finishing sanders for early stages of finish sanding, a cordless drill with a polishing bonnet for buffing topcoats;a heat gun for stripping paint; and a mouse-sander for detail sanding .

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Painting pad

Stenciling brushes

Polyesterbristlepaintbrush

Brushes for removing finish include a stripping brush and wirebrush for finish removal , and wire detail brushes for smaller areas.Brushes for applying finish include a painting pad for large , flat

Sandingcord forsanding

Sanding and scraping tools include: a stripping tool , paintscraper, and putty knives for finish removal and scraping flatsurfaces; detail scrapers for scraping detail areas ; a sandingsponge for all flat surfaces; abrasive pads and synthetic steel

Artists'brushes

Natural-bristle

areas; a polyester-bristle brush for all finishes; a natural-bristlebrush for oil-based applications ; artists' brushes for touch-ups ;stenciling brushes for finishing and liquid wax applications .

StrilPpirlg tool

wool for finish removal , sanding, and buffing finishing coats ;sanding cord , sanding grips, and a teardrop sanding pad forsanding hard-to-reach areas and contours .

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Install a fan in a window in your work area to provide ventilation . Where possible, di rect one fan outside to remove vapors, and direct another fan into the room to supplyfresh air.

Guidelines for a Refinishing Wo rk Area Choose a worksuriace that raises the project to a comfortable working height. Anadjustable-height workbench is ideal for refinishing. Store refinishing knives, scrapers , and other dangerous tools in a locked cabinetor trunk. Store hazardous or flammable materials in a fireproof cabinet. Protect the floor with a drop cloth . For messy jobs, lay old newspaper over thedrop cloth for easy cleanup. Cover any ductwork in the work area to keep dust and fumes from spreadingthroughout the house. Extinguish nearby pilot lights and do not operate space heaters whenever workingwith strippers and other chemicals that produce flammable vapors. Maintain a work area that is well lit, dry, and warm (between 65and 75F) . Use adehumidifier in damp areas to speed drying times . Use a metal trash can with a lid and empty it regularly.

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Safet3"Cleanup &Disposalrotect yourse lf and yo urhome, and help ensure good

fi nishing results by usi ng se nsiblesafety, clea nu p, and di sposalmethods when refinishing.Refinishing wood can create manyhazard s, including dan gerous vapors, flamm ab le or toxic c hemi calresi du e, and sa ndi ng dust thatcan im pa ir brea th ing (as we ll asruin an oth erwise good finish).Make sure yo u have th e requiredsafety and protect ive equipmen tbefore yo u be gin work ing. Establis h a ded icated work area, prefer ably in a wel l-ve nt ilated area, likea garage. Organize th e area forcomfort, safety, and efficiency(see guidel ines, left) If yo u are un sure about any disposal regu lations, contact yo ur local wastemanagement department, city office, or th e Environm en tal Protection Agency (page 32).

Read product labels for important information on safety , cleanup, and disposal.


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Safety Equipment

Basic safety equipment for the work area includes: a fully charged fire extinguisher rated for type A and B fires, a smoke detector,a first aid kit , an eye wash kit, disposable latex gloves, and a telephone for emergency use.

Protective Equipment

Protective equipment for refinishing and cleanup includes: a dust mask and cap with brim , to wear when sanding; a respirator, towear when using harsh stripping chemicals ; goggles and stripping gloves, to wear while stripping and finishing ; ear plugs, to wearwhen operating power tools.

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Storage Tips

Hang paint brushes with the bristles down so they dry evenlyand completely, and to protect the bristles. If the bristles are bentwhile the brush is drying, they will become permanently bent.

Use newspapers and rags to collect residue from refinishingand finishing. Let the newspapers and rags dry, then throwthem out with your household trash. Note: Any residue containing lead must be taken to a hazardous waste disposal site.

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Label storage containers clearly with a description of thecontents and the date the material was first used. Also note anyspecial projects to which a finishing product was applied. Note:The best solution to storage issues is to buy only as much material as you need, avoiding leftovers.

Guidelines for Workingwith ChemicalsLeftover paints, strippers , and solvents are consideredhousehold hazardous wastes. Wastes produced by stripping and finishing procedures may contain lead, mercury,and other dangerous substances that will pollute landfillsand water supplies. Call the EPA Hazardous Waste Hotline at 1-800-424-9346 for information on disposing ofthese materials responsibly.oUse water-based strippers, stains, and finishes insteadof oil-based products whenever they meet your needs.oBuy refinishing and finishing materials in the smallestquantity needed for the job, and dispose of leftover materials properly.

oNever pour refinishing or finishing chemicals down thedrain.oAt the end of your project, take any unused chemicals toa hazardous waste disposal site , or donate any usableleftover materials to friends or civic organizations.oNever mix chemicals directly into your household oryard waste without drying first (see TIP, left) .


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Cleanup Tips

Wrap wet paintbrushes in plastic or foilto store them for up to three or fourhours while you wait for a coat of finishto dry.

Reuse mineral spirits. Pour used mineral spirits into a clear container , andallow the liquid to rest until the contaminants settle to the bottom of the container. Pour or siphon the clear mineralspirits into another container for lateruse. Dispose of the residue properly.

Clean brushes efficiently in a containerthat is just big enough to hold both thebrush and enough solvent to do the job.To ensure compatibility with the solvent,select a container that is made of thesame material (usually plastic or metal)as the solvent container.

Clean hands with vegetable oil. Scrubbing with ordinary vegetable oil will dissolve and remove most oil -based finishingproducts. The oily mess it creates is rinsed off easily with soapand water (dish detergent is very effective).

Keep your work area dust free by vacuuming toolboxes,cabinets, woodwork, and light fixtures , as well as all floors andworksurfaces, whenever you complete a sanding project.

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Use the best finish-removal method for the type of old finish.On painted surfaces, chemical stripper removes most of the oldpaint quickly and effectively, and without damaging the wood.

Heat stripping and sanding are effective, too, and they don't in-volve nasty chemicals, but it's easy to gouge or scratch the wood.

Removing Old Finishesemoving an old finish does not have to be atedious chore. In fact, watching your projectemerge from beneath many layers of old finish isone of the most satisfying stages of the refinishingprocess. Nevertheless, stripping a finish should beviewed as a last resort to be done only if the old finish

cannot be saved.Before beginning the removal process, make certainyour project really needs stripping. Clean the wood surfaces thoroughly with mineral spirits and identify the finish topcoat to determine if it can be repaired.There are three primary finish-removal methods: scraping and sanding, heat stripping, and chemical stripping. Removing finish usually requires a combination oftechniques. Scraping and sanding are done at the be-

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ginning and end of almost every finish-removalprocess. Sanding is the only way to remove some verystubborn finishes, like epoxy paint. Heat stripping ismost effective with painted finishes, but it can be usedwith some success on thick layers of clear topcoat. Inmost cases, heat stripping should be followed bychemical stripping to fully remove a finish.Chemical stripping is the most thorough finish-removalmethod and it poses the smallest amount of danger tothe wood .

THIS SECTION SHOWS:Scraping & Sanding ................... pages 38 to 39Heat Stripping ........................ pages 40 to 41Chemical Stripping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 42 to 45


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Tips for Removing a Finish: Preparing the Workpiece

~ /---Remove the hardware to provide betteraccess to wood surfaces. Removing the

hardware also makes it easier to repair andrefurbish it without damaging the wood.

Make repairs to the workpiece beforestripping it. Problems like loose veneerneed to be corrected before chemicalstrippers are applied because the chemicals can get into the damaged area andworsen the problem.

Disassemble furniture when it is helpful. Some furniture is easier to work withwhen it is broken down into separate ,more accessible pieces.

Mask delicate parts and accessories that are difficult to remove. Especially on older items, trying to remove delicate partsthat are securely in place can damage the parts and the woodsurrounding them.

Label all woodwork before sending it out to be commerciallystripped . Use a scratch-awl for marking-pen or pencil marksusually disappear during commercial stripping. Make a complete list of the items you send out, and always check your listat pickup time to make sure nothing is missing.

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Remove epoxy paint and tough commercial finishes with a belt sander-some commercial finishes, especially those applied to prefinished flooring products, are almost impossible to dissolve with chemicals.

Scraping & Sanding.I brasion techniques, like scraping and sand-

ing, are used at the start and the end of mostfinish-removal projects. Before heat stripping orchemically stripping wood , scrape off loose finishwith a paint scraper or putty knife. After stripping asmuch finish as you can, use scrapers again to dislodge any last flecks of finish. Finally, sand to get ridof finish residue and to smooth the wood surface.Use scraping and sanding as your primary finishremoval method on extra-tough surfaces like epoxypaint, and for very delicate surfaces that are not suitable for heat-stripping or chemical stripping. Onfloors, sanding is the most common method for re-moving an old finish. Use coarse sandpaper (up to120-grit) for finish removal.Scrapers and sanding blocks come in all shapes andsizes . And if the perfect tool for your needs is notmanufactured, you can often make it yourself fromsimple household items, like an old credit card, arubber spatula, or metal flashing.

38

Rent floor sanders for resurfacing wood floors. Drum sandersand edgers like the ones shown above are available at rentalstores and can be rented at many building centers. If you rentthese tools, make sure to get operating instructions from the attendant, and grab plenty of sanding belts and discs in a varietyof grits (you can always return sandpapers that you do notuse) .


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Tools for Scraping & Sanding

Paint scrapers remove loosened finish materials. Use a detailscraper with interchangeable scraping heads (left) to removepaint from hard-to-reach spots, and a paint scraper with replaceable blades (right) to scrape flat surfaces.

Sanding cords remove finish from difficult-to-reach areas suchas crevices like those commonly found on spindles and decorative accents. Cords are sold in woodworking supply storesand catalogs in several different grits: 60- to 120-grit cord isgood for finish removal.

A belt sander is used for fast finish removal from large, flatsurfaces. This tool removes material very quickly, so use it withdiscretion (and a dust bag). In addition to general smoothing, abelt sander is a good tool for removing paint (see previous page).

Teardrop sanding blocks, available in a variety of sizes, letyou sand old finish from contours or unusually shaped areas.They can also be used for finish sanding. Similar products,called sanding grips, are available in many profiles and sizes.

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Successful heat stripping depends on good timing. As youexpose paint to a heat gun, the paint reaches a point where itsbond with the wood loosens. If you scrape the surface at this

Heat Strippingeat stripping is a safe and effective finishremoval method when the proper techniquesand safety measures are used. It works best on paint,but can be used on thick layers of varnish, lacquer,and other topcoats. Heat stripping is a good moneysaver when done prior to chemical stripping: because it removes so much old paint, you will use lessof the expensive chemical stripper. Use caution when

heat stripping woodwork-the blower can send hotpaint chips flying, so always scrape off loose paintbefore using the heat gun.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED:Tools: heat gun, putty knife, assorted scrapers, heavy-gaugeextension cord, fire extinguisher.Materials: coffee can, goggles, work gloves, aluminum foiland cardboard.

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point, the scraper works like a plow, pushing the loosened paintoff the wood in wide ribbons. If you wait too long, the paint becomes gummy.

Tip for Heat Stripping

A heat shield prevents the hot air from a heat gunfrom damaging or blistering other areas next to thework area. To make a heat shield, cover a piece ofheavy cardboard (approximately 6" x 12") withheavy-duty aluminum foil.


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How to Heat-strip Paint

/

I Scrape off all loose paint flakes with a paint scraper. Position the heat gun about 2" above a large, flat surface, thenturn the gun on , starting at the lowest setting. As the gun heatsup, move it in a circular motion until the paint begins to release-usually signified by blistering. If the paint fails to blister,try the next higher heat setting.

3 eat-strip the contoured and uneven areas, using specialtyscrapers , where needed, to remove the loosened paint. Donot overheat or apply too much pressure around detailed areas-they are more vulnerable to scorching and gouging thanflat areas.

2 ush a metal scraper along the heated surface, at an angleof approximately 30 following the heat gun. Develop arhythm that allows you to move the scraper and the heat gun atthe same speed (always keep the heat gun moving in a circularmotion). Strip all the large, flat surfaces. TIP: Keep the scraperblade clean by depositing paint ribbons into a coffee can asyou work.

4 ry-scrape all wood surfaces to remove any remaining loosened paint flecks after you are done heat stripping. In mostcases , you will need to use chemical solvents or strippers to re-move the rest of the finish .41


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Chemical stripper dissolves th ick finishes so they can be wipedoff or scraped off easily. Coarse abrasive pads are effective removal tools for contours.

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Chemical Strippingr here comes a time in the life of every furnishingwhen its original finish needs to go. Not onlydoes a failed finish detract from the appearance of

the furnishing, it wi ll not protect the wood properly.So unless your piece of furniture is a museumquality antique (and it almost certainly isn't) you'll bedoing the old chair or table (and yourself) a favorby stripping off the fa iling finish and replacing itwith a brand-new protective coating.Common solvents used to strip a finish are: minerai spirits (used as a general cleaner , for removing wax buildup, and to dissolve pure va rnish) ;denatured alcohol (effective on shellac and as arinsing agent after stripping); and lacquer thinner(used to dissolve both spray-on and brush-on lacquer finishes). These chemicals are inexpensiveand relatively safe to use, so use them instead ofcommercial chemical strippers whenever you can.Chemical paint strippers are confusing products.The fact is , any chemical that can peel paint off arocking chair has the potential to affect your healthnegatively. Newe r stripping products introduced inthe last decade or so claim to be safer alternativesto traditional "Zip Strip" types of chemical strippers ,often boasting a pleasing citrus scent to suggestthat their chemistry is somehow more organic andless tox ic. These stripping products do use a different active ingredient than the traditional chemical strippers that contain a particularly nasty activeingredient called methylene chloride. But theseproducts aren't actually less toxic, they simplyevaporate more slowly so the dangerous fumesdon 't build up as quickly.When shopping for a chemical stripper, the primary questions to ask concern cost and whetherthe product is a semi-paste or a liquid . For mostjobs , semi-paste stripper is the best choice. Liquidstripper doesn't c ling to surfaces and often driesout before the finish is dissolved. No matter whichproduct you buy, it is very important that you followthe safe use and disposal instructions rigorously.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED :Too ls: paint brushes, putty knives and scrapers, safetyeq uipment.Materials: stripper or solvent, medium abrasive pads,newspapers and rags, sawdust, rinsing agent.


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Chemical Strippers by Type

Methylene Chloride (MC) strippers are the types most peopleare familiar with using. They contain anywhere from 25% to85% MC, along with a variety of other solvents and wax. Thefumes are hazardous and safe usage requires good ventilationand the wearing of a respirator. Non-flammable products usually have a higher concentration of MC. Common brand namesinclude Bix, ZipStrip , SuperStrip , Zar Paint & Varnish Remover.

NMP strippers (N-methyl pyrrolidone) are somewhat safer touse than MC or ATM strippers, but only because they evaporate more slowly, lessening the buildup of hazardous vapors.They are slower-acting and more expensive than other types.Some common brands include 3M Safest Stripper, SafeSt rip,Citristrip , ZipStrip 2 Cleaner formula , Biodegradable Stripeeze,Peelaway, Woodfinishers Pride.

~ --CFurnitureR e f i n ~ . ! . -- _.

Furniture Refinisher is a liquid that contains a combination ofsolvents , including acetone, toluene, and methanol, but notmethylene chloride. It is somewhat effective on non-oil baseclear finishes but won't dissolve most paint or oil-base varnishand polyurethane. Because it is liquid it evaporates quickly andrequires numerous reapplications.

Household solvents that dissolve certain types of wood finishes include denatured alcohol , mineral spirits (also calledpaint thinner) , and lacquer thinner. They are inexpensive andhave other applications, including thinning finishes and generalcleanup. See pages 22 to 23 for more information on theseproducts .

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How to Chemically Strip a Finish

I To help the chemical stripper penetrate the old finish, scuffsand the finish lightly with coarse (80- or 1 O - g r i t ) sandpaper before you apply the product.

3 rush stripper onto the wood surface in a thick layer. Workquickly and do not backbrush or reb rush product once it is inplace. The stripper usually contains paraffin that forms a skimcoat on the surface to prevent the active ingredients from evaporating too quickly. Avoid disturbing the skim coat.44

2Shake the chemical stripper thoroughly and then open thecap very slowly. Pour a small amount of product into a container with a large enough opening to fit a 3" paintbrush. Thenew container should be made of the same material as thestripper container. Stripper evaporates quick ly-only pour it outof the container in small amounts. Wear goggles, a respirator,heavy rubber gloves, and long sleeves when working withchemical stripper.

4 et the stripper work for at least as long as the manufacturersuggests. Check it periodically. If you see that it is dried out ,refresh it, doing your best to avoid disturbing the skim coat onthe surrounding area. The goal is to keep the coat of stripperfresh and working on the paint long enough to dissolve it all theway to the wood in one application.


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Making repairs, like regluing the face-frame stretcher joints on this dresser, helps ensure that your project piece will stand up todaily use for many years to come.

Making Basic Repairsepair broken parts, loose joints, damagedveneer, and other wood problems during therefinishing process. By making careful repairs, youwill be able to enjoy your completed refinishing project for a long time.

This section shows you how to make basic repairs tocommon problems found in all types of furniture ,floors, and woodwork. Most repairs involve woodjoints . If you are unfamiliar with the various ways twopieces of wood can be joined together, check librariesand bookstores for information on wood joinery.Once you identify any repairs your refinishing projectrequires , choose the best time to perform the repairs.Some repairs, like reattaching loose veneer, should

46

almost always be done before chemical stripping because the chemicals can seep under loose veneerand cause further damage. Other repairs, like regluing a broken joint , make more sense after the stripping is completed because chemical strippers candissolve the new glue in the joint.To learn more about cosmetic repairs, like fillingscratches in a finish or reattaching wood splinters,see Maintenance &Quick Fixes (pages 136 to 139).

THIS SECTION SHOWS:Repairing Joints & Broken Parts . . . . . .pages 48 to 51Repairing Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .pages 52 to 53


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Glues & Gluing Tools

Common glues for repairing wood include: white glue (A),carpenter's glue (8), and epoxy glue (C). Carpenter's glue issuitable for most general wood repairs, but for complicatedrepairs use slower-drying white glue to give yourself moreworking time . Use epoxy for exterior furniture and for repairswhere the glue rnust fill voids created by rnissing wood.

Tips for Working with Glue

Tools for gluing include: a J-roller (A), and a wood wallpaperseam roller (D) for pressing veneer; and glue applicators, likea palette knife (8), a skewer (C), tongue depressors or popsiclesticks (E), squeeze bottles (F) , pipe cleaners (G) , a metal gluebrush (H) , and a glue injector (I).

Remove old glue before regluing. Use afile or an emery board in tight areas , anduse scrapers or chisels on flat , easy-toreach surfaces. Stubborn glue can usually be dissolved with hot vinegar.

Apply glue to the applicator, not to theworkpiece itself, to achieve the neatest results when gluing in hard-to-reach areas ,like under veneer or inside a mortise .

Scrape off excess glue after it dries, using a chisel (round over the corners firstto prevent gouging). Wiping off wet gluewith a rag forces glue into wood pores ,interfering with new finish absorption.

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Repairingfaints &Broken Partsoose or broken joints and bro-~ ken parts, like cracked seats

and wobbly legs, are among themost common structural problemsfound in furniture. Easy to fix, theseproblems usually can be correctedsimply by gluing and reinforcing thejoint. For best results, disassemblethe joint first so you can scrape offthe old glue before regluing. Doinggood, careful work is important- ifthe repair is not as strong as theoriginal joint, it is likely to fail again.

EVERYTHING YOU NEED:

Cut hardwood mending plates and matching mortises to reinforce repairs made tocracks or breaks in flat surfaces. Cut a bow-tie-shaped plate, and mortise (above) witha chisel. Or, if you prefer working with a router, cut figure-8 shapes (inset).

Tools: chisel , putty knife, clamps , drill,glue injector, saw, utility knife, nailpuller, pliers, bandsaw or jig saw, pencil, screwdriver.Materials: carpenter's glue, epoxy glue,wood sweller, dowels, wood, wax paper, hardwood wedge.

Tips for Repairing Joints 'WithoutDisassembly

Use wood sweller to tighten loose joints. When squirted into aloose joint, like a chair spindle, sweller causes the wood in thejoint to swell and tighten. Use wood swellers only on interiorspindles and other parts that do not support much weight whenthe furniture is in use.

48

Drill holes in a joint and fill with epoxy glue to create "epoxynails" that harden and reinforce loose joints. Drill at least two3/16"-diameter holes per joint. Unlike metal fasteners, epoxy willnot corrode or discolor the wood. Use a self-mixing injector(above) to deliver the correct mixture of two-part epoxy glue.


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How to Disassemble a Joint

1 emove nails, screws, and other fasteners that were driven into the woodto reinforce the joint. Internal reinforcement, like dowels or biscuits, cannot beremoved until the joint is separated.

21f the glue bond is still intact, dissolvethe glue by injecting hot vinegar intothe joint. NOTE: If hot vinegar fails to dissolve the glue, it is probably epoxy,which must be separated by breakingor cutting the joint.

3 iggle or twist the joint gently beforethe glue rehardens. If it still does notseparate , drive a wedge-shaped hardwood scrap into the joint.

4scrape all traces of the old glue from the parts of the joint(including wooden fasteners like dowels or biscuits) using asharp tool , like a putty knife, chisel , or file . OPTION: Remove internal reinforcement , like dowels-especiallyif the joint has rotted or deteriorated in any way. Use a pliers topull dowels or biscuits out of the wood, then replace them withnew reinforcing materials.

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How to Repair Cracks & Breaks in Flat Surfaces

1 lean loose debris and splinters fromthe pieces of the part so the matingsurfaces fit tightly. If so much wood ismissing that the pieces cannot bematched , you probably need to replacethe damaged part.

2APPly glue to the surfaces to bejoined, press the parts together , thenclamp the glue jOint and let the glue dry.Unclamp, then scrape the excess gluefrom the surfaces with a chisel.

30utline and cut a bow-tie-shapedmending plate from %"-thick hardwood. When set over the crack or break,it should overhang each side of thebreak by at least 1" . Cut the mendingplate using a bandsaw or jig saw with amedium or fine blade.

4 osition the mending plate over the crack or break , thentrace the outline onto the underside of the workpiece as aguide for cutting the mortise. Use a sharp wood chisel to cuta 3/16"-deep mortise for the mending plate. Smooth out the bottom and sides of the mortise , using the chisel or a file . Test-fitthe plate in the mortise, and enlarge the mortise if needed.50

SAPPIY glue to the back of the mending plate and to the bottom of the mortise , then set the plate into the mortise. Coverthe plate with wax paper, then clamp until the glue is dry.Scrape away the excess glue with a chisel , then sand the topof the plate so it is flush with the surrounding wood.


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I Remove the spindle, leg, or rung from the piece of furniture,disassembling the joints if they are not loose already. Cleandebris and splinters from the pieces of the part so the mating surfaces fit tightly. If so much wood is missing that the pieces cannotbe matched, you probably need to replace the damaged part.

3Choose a length of hardwood dowel that is no thicker in diameter than one-half the diameter of the spindle, leg , orrung at the repair spot (the thickest spot in the repair area).Using a drill and a bit the same diameter as the dowel, drill ahole all the way through the thickest spot in the repair area .

2APPly glue to the mating surfaces of the break. Wrap thespindle, leg, or rung with wax paper so the clamps do notstick to the wood, then press the parts together, making surethey are aligned. Slip hose clamps over the repair, spacedevery 3" to 4", and tighten them securely. Allow the glue to dryovernight, then remove the clamps and paper, and scrapeaway the excess glue with a chisel.

4Taper one end of the dowel (inset photo), then cut the dowelso it is lj,." longer than the depth of the hole. Apply glue tothe dowel and slide it into the hole, leading with the taperedend, so it extends %" on each side of the hole. When the glueis dry, trim the ends of the dowel with a saw or file, then sandthem flush.

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RepairingVeneer

aking basic veneerrepairs, like regluingloose or blistered veneer, is a fairlysimple job . As long as you cleanthe repair area thoroughly and donot rush through the process,these easy veneer repairs willgreatly improve the appearance ofyour furniture- and prevent furtherdamage. Complicated repairs involving patching should be doneby a professional.Before regluing loose veneer, tryironing the veneer to reform theglue bond.EVERYTHING YOU NEED :

Use small tools when working with veneer. Thin-blade knives, like the palette knifeabove, and small brushes are less likely to cause damage.

Tools: brush, palette or putty knife ,glue applicator, squeeze bottle forglue, craft knife, pencil , straightedge,clamps.

Common Veneer Problems

Loose or blistered veneer is relatively easy to repair. In somecases, the repair is as simple as covering the damaged areawith a towel, then pressing it with an iron. If ironing does notwork, reglue the veneer with fresh glue (page opposite).Scratches, burns, and other common surface problems arerepaired using the same techniques as with solid wood-butuse extra care and do not oversand.52

Materials: glue , wax paper, vinegar,cotton swab.

Missing sections of veneer are difficult to repair. If you stillhave the missing piece and it is intact, however, it can bereglued the same way as with loose veneer (see oppositepage). Cutting and gluing down new veneer patches is a job forprofessionals or very experienced woodworkers. Often, thebest solution is to cover the entire surface with new veneer.


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How to Repair Loose Veneer

I Use a putty or palette knife to lift theveneer so you can clean below it witha brush. Be careful not to tear the fragileveneer. If there is glue on the surface, tryscrubbing with a cotton swab dipped inhot vinegar.

How to Repair Blistered Veneer

I Slice the blister along the grain with acraft knife. Use a thin-bladed knife,like a palette knife, and a small brush toclean debris from under the blisteredarea (see opposite page).

2APPlY glue to the veneer and basewith an applicator, like a cotton swab.OPTION: Inject glue under the veneer witha squeeze bottle or a glue injector.

2 lip a thin spacer under the veneer,then inject carpenter's glue into theblister (for very large areas, use slowerdrying white glue). Roll the blister with aseam roller to set the glue. Cover withwax paper and clamp the repair until theglue dries.

3cover the repair area with wax paperand a clamping block, then clamp therepair until the glue dries. Remove theclamp and carefully scrape away anyexcess glue with a chisel.

3 lice away any veneer that overlapsthe seam, using a craft knife andstraightedge.

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Sand wood with power sanders, like the random-orbit sander shown above, to make quick work of the initial finish sanding stages,while producing a very smooth wood surface.

Preparingfor the Finishj . properly prepared wood surface absorbsfinish materials evenly , focusing attention onthe quality and color of the wood and the finish. Apoorly prepared surface focuses attention on itselfand its flaws.

Sanding or filling scratches and gouges, removingdents and stains, and carefully finish sanding are theessential steps in preparing for the finish . With manywoods (especially softwoods like pine) you can create a more even finish by sealing the wood withsanding sealer immediately after finish sanding, thensanding the sealer lightly with 220-grit sandpaper after it dries. For exceptionally smooth, rich finishes(particularly on open-grain hardwoods like mahogany) , apply wood grain filler to fill in checks andlarge pores, creating a smooth-as-glass surface.

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Before beginning the final preparations for the finish ,sand the workpiece with medium-grit sandpaper toremove small scratches and other surface problems- this is especially important if you did not usesanding as a final stage of finish removal. Anyscratches, gouges, dents, or stains that survive theintermediate sanding should be remedied before youfinish-sand.Do your final stage of finish sanding immediately before you apply the finish-the smooth surface createdby finish sanding is easily scratched or discolored.

THIS SECTION SHOWS:Fixing Flaws in the Surface ............. pages 56 to 57)Surface Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 58 to 59)


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Tips for Preparing a Wood Surface

SANDPAPER GRIT CHART!iJ:i180 to 100120 t0150180220300 to 400600 wet/dry

Finish removalPreliminary finish sandingFinal sanding for softwood ; intermediatestage of finish sanding for hardwoodFinal sanding for hardwoodSanding between finish layersWet sanding of final finish layer

Choose the right sandpaper for the job. Aluminum oxide andgarnet are two common types. Aluminum oxide is a good general-use product suitable for most refinishing and finishing purposes. Garnet is usually cheaper than aluminum oxide, but itwears out much more quickly. Use sandpaper with the propergrit (higher numbers indicate finer grit-see chart above).

Apply wood grain filler that approximately matches the naturalcolor of your wood. Available in light and dark colors, grain fillercreates a smooth surface in open wood grains. Usually manufactured as a gel, it can be applied with a putty knife or a rag,but the excess material should be wiped off with a plasticscraper.

Get rid of glue. Dried glue won't absorb wood stain or anyother penetrating coloring agents, so glue spills and squeezeout show up as bright blotches if they're not removed by sanding or scraping before the finish is applied.

Make your own sanding sealer by blending one part cleartopcoat material with one part topcoat solvent. NOTE: Use thesame topcoat material you plan to apply to the project. Sandingsealer is used before coloring soft or open-grain woods toachieve even stain penetration. To apply, wipe on a heavycoat, then wipe off the excess after a few minutes . Sand lightlywith 220-grit sandpaper when dry.

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Walnut tintedwood putty

Walnut wood stainalready applied

Pretinted putty. There are several suitable methods for filling nail holes and scratchesin furniture. The question of which way is best is debated constantly by woodfinishers.Applying stainable wood putty prior to staining is a common approach, but for a lessvisible result try selecting a pretinted putty to fill nail holes, dents, scratches, and othersurface defects after the wood stain is applied.

Tips for EliminatingDents

Swell out shallow dents with water or steam. Apply a few drops of distilled water intothe dent (left), and let the water soak in. In most cases, this will cause dented wood toswell to its original shape. If the dent does not swell out, try touching the tip of a hot ironto a wet rag directly over the dent (right). If all else fails, fill the dent with wood putty.

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Fixing Flawsin the Surfaceurface defects such asscratches, dents, and nailholes detract from the appearanceof a wood finish. In most cases, thehardest part of repairing the flaws ischoosing the best method and the

appropriate time to do the work.If you will be painting the wood, oreven coloring it with a dark, onestep finishing product, wood puttyor even spackle or a resin-basedauto body filler can be used to fillscratches and repair other defects.But if you're applying a traditionaltinted or clear wood finish, evenstainable wood putty is not likely toprovide the hard-to-detect resultsyou're looking for. A cleaner repaircan be had by using a wood puttythat has been pretinted to matchthe color of the finished wood. Apply the putty after the wood hasbeen stained.

ALTERNATIVE: Instead of a householdiron, use the tip of a soldering iron and aclean damp cloth to steam out the dent.A soldering iron lets you direct the heatmore precisely than a household iron.


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Tips for Bleaching Wood

Two-part wood bleach can be used to remove or lighten stains in the wood surface(left photo) or for overall lightening of wood (right photo). Apply a coat of the first part(Part A or Part 1) to the area you wish to lighten. Before the first part dries, apply PartB (or Part 2). The two chemicals will foam and create a bleaching action when combined. Reapply as necessary and neutralize with a mixture of vinegar and water whenfinished. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's directions.

TIP: Plug counterbores

A good way to hide recessed screwheads is to drill counterbored holes andcap them with wood plugs. Use plugs of the same wood species as the projectto help them blend in . Most wood plugs sold at woodworking stores require a%"-dia. counterbore that 's also 3Jil" deep.

Oxalic acidmixture

Remove black stains created by waterdamage or contact with metal using amixture of oxalic acid crystals (sold atmost building centers and paint stores)and distilled water.

Neutralize bleach with white vinegar. Ifleft in the wood, bleach can cause discoloration and raise wood grain. As soonas you are done bleaching , wipe vinegaronto the bleached area with a rag , thenrinse off immediately with water. Dry witha rag.

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Use sanding sealer or grain filler for a fine finish. Finish sanding alone (left)can leave a blotchy surface when stain is applied, but a coat of sandingsealer (center) or grain-filler (right), or both, allows you to create a smoother,more even finish.

How to Finish-sand

SurfacePreparationurface preparation ensures an even,high-quality finish. Finish-sand withprogressively finer grits of sandpaper,starting with 100-grit. Hardwood requiresfiner-grit sandpaper (a final sanding with220-grit is common) than soft wood (sandto 150-grit). To speed up the process,use a power sander for the first stages ofthe sanding, then switch to hand-sandingto complete the process.

Finish sanding alone creates a smoothsurface, but because wood absorbs stainat different rates , the color can be blotchyand dark. Sealing wood with sandingsealer (either a commercial product or yourown concoction of thinned finish) evens outthe stain-absorption rates and yields alighter, more even finish. Filling the grainwith a commercial paste filler creates a finalfinish that feels as smooth as it looks.

1 inish-sand all surfaces with 1SO-gritsandpaper, following the direction ofthe grain. Use a finishing sander on flatsurfaces and specialty sanding blocks oncontours. When sanding hardwood,switch to 180-grit paper and sand again.

2Raise the wood grain by dampeningthe surface with a wet rag. Let thewood dry, then skim the surface with afine abrasive pad, following the grain.

3 se sanding blocks to hand-sand theentire workpiece with the finest-grit paper in the sanding sequence. Sand untilall sanding marks are gone and the surface is smooth. (Use bright sidelighting tocheck your progress.) If using sandingsealer, do that now.

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A well-chosen, properly applied color layer is the most important component of an attractive wood finish.60

Coloring Woodr here are several reasons to colorwood. The most common reason isto enhance the appearance of wood by

showing off a fine or distinctive grain patternor creating a beautiful wood tone . But stainand penetrating oil, the two most basic coloring agents, can accomplish more practicalresu lts as we ll. Using a dark color concealsuneven color in your wood and can blendtogether two or more different wood typesa common problem encountered in refini shing .When selecting a coloring agent for your project , you will find a vast selection of productsto choose from. There are oil-based stains,water-based sta ins, wipe-on gel stains, penetrating oi ls, one-step stain-and-sealantproducts, aniline dye stains ... the optionsseem endless. To sort through the manyproducts and make the selection that is bestfor your project, start by finding a color yo ulike. Th en check the specific properties ofthe coloring agent to determine if it is thebest general type for your project. Make sureit has no compatibility problems with the topcoat you plan to use, or with any old finishmaterials that have not been removed.Wh ichever color ing agent you select, readthe directions very careful ly before applyingit to the wood. Drying time , application techniques, and cleanup methods vary widelybetween products-even products that aresimilar. Also test the product on a wood sample similar to yo ur project. When using astain, app ly enough coats to create the exactcolor shade you want-some stain wi lldarken (up to a point) with additional coats orby leavi ng it on the wood longer before wiping, while other types won't darken. Theproduct labe l wil l give suggestions for controlling the color.It's always a good idea to keep a carefulrecord of how many coats of stain (and whattype) you applied for your reference whenyou finish the actual workpiece.

T HIS SECTION SHOWS:Applying Wood Stain pages 64 to 65


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Oil-basedLiquid StainOil-based liquid traditionally has been themost common type ofwood stain, but its popularity is declining dueto environmental andcleanup factors.Advantages: does not raise wood grain slow drying time increases workability permanent and colorfast can be built up to control color conditions and seals wood less likely to bleed than water-based stainDrawbacks: harmful vapors; flammable; hard to clean regulated or restricted in some states decreasing availability unpleasant odorCompatibility: can be used with most topcoatsRecommended Uses: previously stained wood wood finish touch-up

Gel StainGel stains, usuallyoil-based, provideeven surface colorthat is highly controllable due to the thickness of the product.Advantages : very neat and easyto apply; will not run does not raisewood grain dries evenly can be built up to deepen color can be buffed to create a hard surfaceDrawbacks: limited color selection more expensive than most other stain types hard to clean up requires buffing between coatsCompatibility: can be used with most topcoatsRecommended Uses: woodwork and furniture with vertical surfaces furniture with spindles and other rounded parts

Water-basedLiquid StainWater-based liquidstain is wiped orbrushed on to createa color layer than canbe darkened with additional applications.Advantages: easy to clean up , safe to use wide range of colors available can be built up in layers to control final color dries quicklyDrawbacks: can raise wood grain (requires sanding for an even surface) can chip or scuff if not properly topcoatedCompatibility: bonds well with most topcoatsRecommended Uses: floors woodwork previously finished furniture-can be "painted" on to covercolor variations tabletops, eating surfaces, children's furniture and toys

AnilineDyeLiquid or powderaniline dye is added todenatured alcohol orwater to create a dye ..stain that can bebrushed or sprayed.Advantages: small moleculespenetrate into wood(instead of binding to the surface) easy to darken or lighten or blend the color when mixing color can be lightened after application by wiping the woodwith solvent evens out color variations better than pigmentDrawbacks: requires mixing (limited availability of premixed dye stain) relatively expensive, especially if you are mixing to a verydark tone raises wood grain if mixed with waterCompatibility: bonds well with most topcoatsRecommended Uses : wood with color variation between sapwood and heartwood

(e .g., walnut and cherry) wood with irregular structure (e.g ., white oak with prominent rays and flakes in addition to open grain) custom finishes with non-stock stain color

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Prepare wood for stain with sanding sealer (also calledwood conditioner). Sealer reduces blotchiness and is espe-cially useful on softwoods or hardwoods with an open grain. Itis sold premixed (as above) or you can make your own.

How to Prepare Aniline Dye Stain

I Aniline dyes come in both liquid and powder form (inset)and most can be mixed with either water or denatured al-cohol. Because it does not raise wood grain , alcohol is a bet-ter choice for most applications. Alcohol does evaporate morequickly, so if you're planning to stain a large area and aren'tconcerned about raising the grain, then use water to suspendthe dye. Add the alcohol to your container first.

Dry stain

Judge color while stain is wet. A common mistake whenstaining is to think that the color is too light once the stainingagent dries. In almost all cases, stained wood will also have aclear protective topcoat that darkens the finish. Judge staincolor while the stain is still wet-that 's closer to how it will lookafter the finish is applied .

2With a sufficient quantity of denatured alcohol in a glass orplastic container, begin adding a small amount of dye. Stirand test the color on a piece of wood scrap by blotting with aclean paper towel. Continue adding dye until the stain is thedesired tone.

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Creating consistent color is easy with stain, especially gel stain (above), whichclings to awkward surfaces without pooling.

How to Apply Liquid Stain

I Stir the stain thoroughly and applya heavy coat with a brush or cloth.Stir the stain often as you work. Let thestain soak in according to manufacturer'sinstructions.

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2 emove the excess stain with a clean,lint-free cloth. Wipe against the grainfirst, then with the grain. If the color is toodark, try scrubbing the surface with wateror mineral spirits. Let the stain dry, thenbuff the surface with a fine abrasive pad.

ApplyingWood Stain

. t : :d stain is a general( ~ ~ r m describing a numberof different coloring agents withvery different properties .Oil-based or water-based, inliquid form or as a gel, stain is avery controllable coloring agent.The color often can be lightenedby scrubbing, and it usually canbe darkened by applying additional coats.Before staining , seal all end grainand test the stain color.EVERYTHING YOU NEED:Tools: paintbrushes.Materials: sanding sealer, stainingcloths , liquid or gel stain, fine abrasivepads, sandpaper.

3APPlY light coats of stain until the desired color is achieved. Buff betweencoats and after the final coat beforeadding the topcoat.


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How to Apply GelStain

1 tir the stain , then work it into the surfaces of the workpiecewith a staining cloth , rubbing in a circular motion. Recoatany areas that dry out as you work , and cover as much of theworkpiece as possible.

3Let the stain soak in according to manufacturer's directions,then wipe off the excess with a clean rag, using a polishingmotion. Buff the stained surface with the wood grain , using asoft, clean cloth.

2 se a stiff-bristled brush, such as a stencil brush , to applythe gel in hard-to-reach areas.

4APPlY additional coats until the desired color has beenachieved. (Most manufacturers recommend at least threecoats.) Let the stain dry, then buff the workpiece with a fineabrasive pad.

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Painting Woodost woodworkers want to showcase the natural wood tones of theirprojects, so painting is a finishing option thatis sometimes overlooked. However, there aremany wood projects that are designed to bepainted, including a number in this book.Painting surfaces also allows you to use lessexpensive woods, yet still have impressiveresults.

Use paint as an alternative to wood stain togive plain wood a splash of color or a decorative touch; or simply use it to hide wear,low-quality materials, or unattractive wood.Furniture and woodwork generally should bepainted with water-based or oil-basedenamel paint except when using decorativepainting techniques that call for flat wall paint.Enamel paint forms a tough, protective coatthat resists moisture, chipping, and scratching. It is available in dozens of premixed colors, and in gloss and semi-gloss versions. Or,you can have special colors custom-mixed ata paint store.

Paintbrushes for wood include straight trim brushesfor flat areas, and tapered brushes for edges. Usesynthetic brushes (nylon or polyester bristles) for bothwater-based and oil-based paint.


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Vilater-basedPaintWater-based paint for wood is usually sold as "latex enamel" or"acrylic enamel." Because water-based paint can raise woodgrain, use a water-based primer to prepare the wood, then sandthe primed surface before applying the paint. The coloringagents in water-based paint settle quickly, so stir the paint oftenas you work .Advantages: safer for the environment less toxic than oil-based paints easy cleanup with soap and water dries quickly can be thinned with waterDrawbacks: raises wood grain scratches easily cleanup is difficult after paint dries softens with exposure to moisture cannot be applied in thick coatsCompatibility: will not adhere to most topcoats may be used over other water-based paintsRecommended Uses: children's toys and furniture cabinetry woodwork

Stir paint with a mixing bit attached to a portable drill for fast ,thorough mixing. Keep the mixer bit moving constantly. Re peatedly lower the mixer blade to the bottom of the can , thenraise it to the top of the can to mix in settled pigment.

Oil-based PaintOil-based paint (also called alkyd paint) dries to a harderfinish than water-based paint and offers the best protectionfor wood that is exposed to wear. It is still the preferredpaint type of most professional painters, but this preference is changing as water-based paints become strongerand more versatile. Use oil-based primer with oil-basedpaint.Advantages: hard, scratch-resistant finish unaffected by moisture does not raise wood grain dries to a very smooth finishDrawbacks: releases toxic vapors slow drying time requires mineral spirits for cleanup use is restricted in some statesCompatibility: may be applied over varnish or oil-based polyurethane may be used over oil- or water-based paintsRecommended Uses: stairs and railings floors and doors woodwork previously finished wood

Strain paint to remove lumps, dirt, and other foreign materials.Commercial paint strainers are available

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133172999 Black Decker Finishing Refinishing Wood

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