1365_northern-way.pdf

The North WayThe Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago in Galicia

PORTADAS en INGLES.qxp:30X21 26/08/09 12:51 Página 6

TextsFrancisco Singul

EditingAna B. FreireRosa García

Documentation:pilgrims’ hostels and servicesPilar CuíñaRosa FernándezAna B. FreireRosa GarcíaCoroni Rubio

PhotographyArquivo da S.A. de Xestión do Plan XacobeoPedro GarcíaTono Arias

Technical adviceDpto. de Arquitectura da S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

RevisionDori AbuínCarla Fernández-RefoxoCarmo IglesiasAlfonso Salgueiro

TranslationInterlingua Traduccións S.L.Claire Teed Olson

Revision and updatingCarraig Linguistic Services

Design and Lay-outPermuy Asociados

PrintingLITONOR

D.L.: C 2654-2009

NORTE EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:19 Página 2

3 The North Way

The origins of the pilgrimage way to Santiago which runsalong the northern coasts of Galicia and Asturias dateback to the period immediately following the discoveryof the tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greateraround 820. The routes from the old Kingdom ofAsturias were the first to take the pilgrims toSantiago. The coastal route was as busy as the other,older pilgrims’ ways long before the Spanishmonarchs proclaimed the French Way to be theideal route, and provided a link for the Christiankingdoms in the North of the Iberian Peninsula. This endorsement of the French Way did not,however, bring about the decline of the Asturianand Galician pilgrimage routes, as the stretch of theroute from León to Oviedo enjoyed even greaterpopularity from the late 11th century onwards.

The Northern Route is not a local coastal road for the sole use of the Asturians living along theshoreline. This medieval route gave rise to aninternationally renowned current, directingpilgrims towards the sanctuaries of Oviedo andSantiago de Compostela, perhaps not as well-travelled as the the French Way, but certainlybustling with activity until the 18th century.These pilgrims came by land from France, or by sea from Atlantic nations such as England,Flanders, Germany and Scandinavia, reaching the ports of the Basque Country and Cantabria.

They would then set out on their journey towardsthe sanctuary of San Salvador of Oviedo

and the cathedral of Santiago.

Once they reached Castropol, the pilgrims either hadto cross the “ría” –inlet– of Ribadeo by boat or travel

along the right bank of the estuary to the bridge ofSantiago de Abres, where they would enter Galicia.

The North Way

Alfonso II the Chaste. Liber Testamenctorum (s. XII).

Oviedo Cathedral archives


The present-day journey has been simplified by the construction of a bridge linking Asturias and Ribadeo. After arriving in Galicia, the pilgrimage route is well-documented: it started out from the town of Ribadeo, which also had a port used by pilgrims, and continuedtravelling inland through the valleys of Vilanova de Lourenzá andMondoñedo, crossing the high flatlands of Vilalba and Guitiriz, and at the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes the pilgrims received the hospitality of the monks, just before the route joined the French Wayin Arzúa. Just a few days’ travelling would finally bring them to Santiagoand the tomb of the Apostle.

Among the thousands of pilgrims who travelled to Santiago via theNorth Way, one figure who stands out is Saint Francis of Assisi.According to tradition, he made the pilgrimage to San Salvador inOviedo and Santiago de Compostela in 1214. In the late 15th century,the Armenian Bishop Martyr of Azerbaijan made the pilgrimage to Romeand Santiago using the North Way, which passed through the BasqueCountry, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. There are two chronicles datingfrom the 16th century recorded by pilgrims who travelled a similar route:

Left: Bridge over the River Arnela

Right: Sobrado Lake

Pancha Island. Ribadeo


Pasatiempo Bridge. Mondoñedo

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Antonio Lalaing, Lord of Montigny (1502), and theItalian pilgrim, Bartolomeo Fontana (1539).

During the Baroque period, the North Way wasused by many pilgrims who opted to chronicletheir experiences and itineraries. Jakub Sobieski(1611), the father of King John III Sobieski ofPoland, made the pilgrimage via the FrenchWay to León, before taking a detour to Oviedoand taking the coastal route to Ribadeo andcontinuing on his way to Santiago along theNorth Way. Another Italian pilgrim, SebastianGatti reached Ribadeo by sea in 1698 andcontinued his journey on foot until arriving inSantiago via the same route. In 1726 the Frenchpilgrim, Guillermo Manier and his fellowpilgrims chose the North Way to make tojourney back to France. In 1790 the Frenchman,Jean Pierre Racq wrote a detailed account ofhis pilgrimage to San Salvador in Oviedo and toSantiago de Compostela via the North Way.

The Galician stretch of this Way covers 170kilometres between Ribadeo and Santiago andis clearly signposted with stones decoratedwith a ceramic scallop shell and a vital piece ofinformation for pilgrims: their exact location onthe Way. In addition to the famous yellow arrowof the Associations of the Friends of the Way,these milestones make it easy for the pilgrim tofind their way, as they appear in strategiclocations such as at crossroads and turn-offs.


Ribadeo – Vilanova de Lourenzá

The town of Ribadeo, an important touristcentre and the capital of the municipality, is the starting point of the North Way in Galicia.Ribadeo is perched on a natural lookout point,overlooking the ría –inlet– and is the gateway to the northernmost pilgrimage route, linkingthe sanctuaries of Oviedo and Santiago. The town of Ribadeo is one of the mostimportant strategic and tourist enclaves on the northern coast and has long-standingconnections with the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago.In fact, it must be remembered that betweenthe 13th and 18th centuries it was considered to be the “protector of the Cantabrian Sea”.

Its noble past has left a considerable number ofarchitectural and historical monuments datingfrom both the late Middle Ages and the ModernEra. One of the most outstanding monuments isthe parish church of Santa María do Campo,which originally belonged to the Franciscanconvent, and according to tradition, was foundedin 1214 by a disciple of Saint Francis. Also datingfrom the late Middle Ages is the convent of Saint

Claire in Ribadeo, founded by nuns from Oviedo at the end of the15th century, as well as the Chapel of the Trinity, from the 14thcentury, located on the lookout point known as the Atalaya. This lookout point was an important element in the defence systemof the town between the 16th and the 18th centuries. The mostemblematic civil buildings in Ribadeo are the Town Hall, which is aNeo-classical palace that formerly belonged to the Marquis ofSargadelos, and the Torre de los Moreno, a luxurious art-nouveaumanor house that has been converted into a public library.

The route out of Ribadeo follows “the Ancient Road ofLorenzana”, which appears as an “antique strata” on a certificatesigned by King Silo (774), indicating believe that it was a Roman

House of the Moreno Family.Ribadeo


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Way of Antiquity or a road dating from the early Middle Ages priorto the 8th century, which was still frequented at the beginning ofthe pilgrimages and in later times. On leaving this coastal town,the route leads us to Ove, which still preserves a stretch of themedieval way, and then heads towards the parish of Covelas,passing through the villages of Valín and Pastoriza.

The North Way then heads towards Vilela, passing not far fromCedofeita (“cito facta”, one of the settlements in the area datingfrom the early Middle Ages) and continues on to Lourenzá, goingthrough a number of small, quaint places that are rich in historyand tradition: Ponte de Arante –the site of a pilgrims’ hospitalfounded in the 16th century; also has an interesting chapel withfrescos dating from the same period–, Vilamartín Pequeno,Vilamartín Grande, Gondán and O Corveiro.

Porcillán Port. Ribadeo

Left: Mural paintings. A Ponte. Ribadeo

Right: Raised granaries in Ove. Ribadeo


Above: River Eo seen fromSantiago de Abres

Below: Chapel of San Marcos da Cadeira

Vilanova de Lourenzá, the capital of the municipality, is a townpacked with history, as its streets and squares sprang up aroundthe charitable services and care offered by the Benedictinemonastery founded by Count Don Osorio Gutiérrez (the “SaintlyCount”) in the year 969. The present-day monastery of Vilanova de Lourenzá is a grandiose Baroque building whose church wasdesigned in 1732 by Fernando de Casas Novoa, one of the greatarchitects of the Galician Baroque tradition of the first half of the18th century. The elegant façade of the church designed by CasasNovoa between two solid towers may be interpreted as being theprecedent to the design of the famous Obradoiro façade of theCathedral of Santiago.

Once inside the old monastery church of Lourenzá, rich inaltarpieces and devotional sculptures, the pilgrim may visit the chapel of Valdeflores (18th century), which houses thePaleochristian marble sarcophagus dating from the 6th century,imported by Don Osorio Gutiérrez in the 10th century fromAquitaine (France) to serve as his final resting place. The Baroque


Monastery of Vilanova de Lourenzá

legacy of Lourenzá was enhanced with the chapel of Our Lady of Valbanera and the magnificent altarpiece-reliquary from the monastery. The Neo-classical periodhas contributed the solemn architecture of the mainaltarpiece and the polychromed wooden images craftedby the renowned Galician sculptor, José Ferreiro. The interesting collections of the Religious Art Museum(sculptures, paintings, gold and silver work, wovenfabrics, etc.) are further examples of this town’s rich cultural heritage.

On the stretch from Ribadeo-Vilanova de Lourenzá there is an alternative route, which at different times during thecourse of history was also used to direct large numbers ofpilgrims to Santiago. It is the route that travels across thelowlands of the river Eo through the regions of Asturias andGalicia, passing the Asturian municipalities of Castropol,Vegadeo and Santiago de Abres and the municipality ofTrabada in the province of Lugo (founded in the earlyMiddle Ages). The Way runs through the valley, passingthrough the villages of As Lóngaras, O Portodo Malle, San Esteban and Trapa,where it joins up with the ancientLourenzá Road before reaching thechapel of San Marcos da Cadeira,just outside Vilanova de Lourenzá.

9 The North Way

Altarpiece – reliquary in the Church of Vilanova de Lourenzá

Tomb of the “Holy Count” (late V – early VI c AD). Chapel of Valdeflores.

Church of Vilanova de Lourenzá


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After leaving Vilanova de Lourenzá, the ancientpilgrimage route crosses the valley of Lourenzáand passes through the small villages of Arroxo,Ogrobe, San Pedro da Torre, Reguengo andSan Paio. In almost all of these villages, thepilgrim can visit interesting chapels, like the oneconsecrated to the Virgin Mary of Guadalupe, inOgrobe. Along this stretch, the North Waycontinues to follow the medieval “brea” – aroute from Asturias that takes the travellertowards Lugo and Parga, entering Mondoñedothrough the San Lázaro quarter, passing thechapel of the same name.

The city of Mondoñedo, declared a historical-artistic site, is one of the Galician Episcopal Seesand its wealth of historical and cultural treasuresmake it one of the most fascinating cities inGalicia. The Way travels through the quarter ofOs Muíños, where the chapel of Santiago islocated (1645). It continues along the medievalstreet of Sindín (1328), today called ÁlvaroCunqueiro St., which provided access to thetown centre inside the walled city, and which wasactually the end of the royal road leading intothe city. Before reaching the cathedral, the mostimportant building in the city, the pilgrims wouldstop at the fountain, Fonte Vella (1548), to washand quench their thirst.

The cathedral of Santa María of Mondoñedo(13th century) is Romanesque in style withCistercian elements. Its ground plan has the shape

Vilanova de Lourenzá – Mondoñedo

Ancient Fountain. Mondoñedo

Typical street in Mondoñedo


11 The North Way

of a Latin cross, with threenaves, a transept, three apses at thehead, although only the central oneremains. The façade has retained its medievalappearance, although it underwent major alterationsduring the Baroque period. The frontispiece boasts the Romanesqueporch and the magnificent rose window that illuminates the mainnave. The medieval high altar chapel was surrounded by anambulatory with chapels in the 16th century and was decorated with alarge Baroque altarpiece in 1769 and covered with murals done in oilsin 1773. The cathedral houses a wealth of artistic treasures.

Starting at the central nave, one is struck by the mural paintingslocated below the splendid Baroque organs. These frescos are thework of the artist known as the Master of Mondoñedo and they werepainted in the Spanish – Flemish Gothic style in the early 16thcentury. On the Gospel side of the altar, these murals depict variousepisodes in the life of Saint Peter, while the wall on the Epistle siderepresents various scenes, including the dramatic episode of TheSlaughter of the Innocents, and on the far right, The Flight to Egypt.

View of Mondoñedo


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These murals were moved to their presentday location after being removed from theold walls separating the choir from theaisles. The presbytery and north transepthold the interesting collection of choir stallsdating from the early Renaissance period.

The south end of the transept has a doorwhich opens on to the cathedral cloister. The

pilgrims would rest there, strolling through thegalleries before continuing on to visit the church.

This cloister, in the style of Juan de Herrera, wasdesigned by Master Diego Ibáñez Pacheco, who built it

between 1636 and 1641, having been commissioned by Bishop DonAntonio de Valdés and the Cathedral Chapter. The cloister is a soberbuilding laid out in a square ground plan, built on a single storey andwith a central patio, displaying an arrangement of semicircular arcadesfinished off with a balustrade decorated with balls. The Doric orderrespects the classicism of the “hortus conclusus” surrounding a Gothicstone cross, the only remaining element of the former medieval cloister.

The ambulatory of the cathedral of Mondoñedo has a number ofchapels. The first, appearing on the right, is the chapel of the HolySacrament, popularly known as the Chapel of the English Virgin. It wasbuilt in the 14th century and is ogival in design, and originally led ontothe early medieval cloister. The interior of the chapel holds a Gothicimage of the Virgin which is dearly loved by the city’s people, andoriginated from England in the 15th century. It is popularly known as“Nuestra Señora la Grande” or “the English Virgin”. According todifferent sources, it would appear to have originated from Saint Paul’s

From left to right: Cloister and façade of Mondoñedo Cathedral

Rose window in Mondoñedo Cathedral


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Cathedral in London. After this church became Anglican, it wasbrought to Galicia under the protection of a rich British merchant of noble background, John Dutton, who lived in the town of Viveiro.

A little farther on, there is a door that connects to the rooms whichtoday are part of the Cathedral and Diocese Museum of Mondoñedo.This museum boasts a magnificent collection of religious art, such asthe Romanesque image of Our Lady of the See (12th century), theEnglish alabaster reliefs that belonged to the original main altarpiece(14th century), the altarpiece of Mary Magdalene (dating back to the16th century and an addition to a 14th century relief), several Flemishtablets from the 16th century, canvases painted by Luis Tristán (adisciple of El Greco) dedicated to Saint Thomas of Villanueva, anImmaculate Virgin Mary by Roelas (17th century), and a number ofluxury objects such as the ebony coffer studded with sheets of tortoiseshell and embossed silver made in the Philippines in the late 17thcentury. There are also several parchments of Gregorian chants.

Mondoñedo boasts other historic buildings that embellish the streetsand squares of the city: the old Town Hall (1568), the convent church of La Concepción (1716), the church of the Virgen de los Remedios(1733), the Hospital of San Pablo (1755), the Seminary (1775), the newTown Hall (18th century), the Episcopal Palace (18th century) and thechurch of Santiago (19th century). On the outskirts the convent of San Martiño de Vilalourente, “Os Picos”, is outstanding (18th century).

Los Picos. Mondoñedo

English Virgin. Mondoñedo Cathedral


This medieval itinerary began to take shape and develop during a laterperiod, towards the end of the Middle Ages.

This late medieval route leaves Mondoñedo by way of Fonte Vella andRigueira streets and continues uphill towards the small towns of SanCaetano via Valiñadares and Maariz. The medieval way winds its waythrough the valley washed by the Valiñadares river, passing through thevillages of Valiña, Pacios and Lousada. It then continues to Gontán,before reaching the town of Abadín, the capital of the municipality of the same name, located at the start of the flatlands, the Terra Chá. The town still preserves the medieval church of Santa María de Abadín,built in the Romanesque style, whose façade has a porch with toricarchivolts and a large oculus to illuminate the nave.

From Abadín, the Way travels through Terra Chá passing the parishes of Castromaior and Goiriz. It first arrives in Ponterroxal, then crosses theArnela river over a medieval bridge, reaching Castromaior and then goes

Mondoñedo – Vilalba

Castromaior Cemetery


Andrade Tower. Vilalba Parador

San Simón cheese

15 The North Way

Church of Santa María de Vilalba

over the magnificent medieval bridge of Pontevella.The route takes the pilgrims through a sparselypopulated area, in the vicinity of the villages ofMámoa and Outeiro. The way continues throughSantiago de Goiriz and As Chouzas, before comingto Vilalba, at the heart of the Terra Chá and famousfor its excellent local produce (capons and SanSimón smoked cheese). Vilalba is also a crossroads,defended by the fortress of the Andrade family. All that is left of the defence complex from the 15thcentury is the mighty tower which has beenconverted into a Parador Nacional de Turismo –a state-run hotel–.

The town of Vilalba was founded in the 13thcentury although it was not until well into the 14thcentury that it became a thriving centre of tradeand commerce, attracting crowds of visitors. Fromthis period onwards, Vilalba began to competewith Lugo, which still exerted considerableinfluence. The route to Compostela was thereforeshortened, making it unnecessary for the pilgrimto take the detour to visit the walled city of Lugo.


Left: Church of Santiago de Baamonde Below: Saa Bridge

From Vilalba, the Way continues on to Baamonde and Sobrado dos Monxes, connecting up with severalroyal ways that were well-documented in the 17thcentury, and which probably were laid out overmedieval roads.

The route is as follows: the way leaves Vilalba, passingthrough Ponte Rodríguez, Boizán, Gabín, San Xoán deAlba, Pedrouzos, and continues onto Insua, where itcrosses the Saa bridge, goes as far as Ferreira dePacios and then enters Baamonde. The pilgrims wouldrest in this little town and worship at the church ofSantiago de Baamonde, an interesting Gothicstructure dating from the mid 14th century, whose

Vilalba – Sobrado


River Parga

construction is reminiscent of theRomanesque tradition with its decorationof sculptures. In the atrium stand hundred-year old trees and a Calvary consisting of three cruceiros –wayside crosses–.

The traveller leaves Baamonde by way ofthe N-VI road, which runs parallel to therailway and the Parga river. Then, on its wayto Santa Leocadia de Parga, the North Waytakes pilgrims across the spectacularscenery that surrounds thecharming Chapel of San Alberte and thelate medieval bridge of the same name,consisting of two lancet arches separatedby a central breakwater. The Gothic chapelwas built during the second half of the 14thcentury and has a single nave and a

Church of Santo Alberte de Parga

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presbytery covered with groined vaulting and illuminatedby a slit ogival window. The exterior is noteworthy for

the noble ashlarwork reinforced by buttresses and thepointed arch door openings. From here the Waycontinues towards San Breixo de Parga and arrivesin Santa Leocadia de Parga.

The Pilgrims’ Way continues as far as Carballedo,passing through San Paio de Seixón (Friol), whoseRomanesque church built in the middle of a plainstill preserves the original porch, without atympanum, comprised of toric archivolts adornedwith rosettes, an unusual and rare decorativemotif in the Romanesque architecture of Galicia.The northern wall bears an inscription informingthat the church was the work of Master Juanand was built in the year 1140.

The Way travels on through Ponte Leijosaand arrives in Santiago de Miraz, where partof the old fortress belonging to the Saavedrafamily still stands: a square-shaped 15thcentury tower topped with battlements whichhas recently been restored. Near this towerstands the mighty fortress of San Paio deNarla, which currently houses theethnography section of the Provincial

Left: The Way in Santa Leocadia de Parga

Below: Marco das Pías


Museum of Lugo. Thekeep offers a spectacularpanoramic view. Fourkilometres down the roadis the palace-fortressknown as the “Torre deFriol”, originally built inthe 13th century, whichbelonged to the Pradofamily, an old noble familywho were descendants ofthe monarchs of Galiciaand León. Back on theNorth Way, the travellerpasses through Mantelle,Cabana, Ledro, Travesa,Pedramaior and Marcodas Pías, which is on theprovincial border of Lugo.After travelling throughEsgueva, the pilgrimreaches the CistercianMonastery of Santa Maríade Sobrado (Sobrado dosMonxes, A Coruña).

San Paio de Narla Fortress

Parga Bridge


The monastery of Sobrado isover one thousand years old. Itwas founded as a familymonastery for nuns and monks inthe year 952. During the secondhalf of the 10th century, itenjoyed a period of prosperityunder the protection of theCounts of Présaras and SanPedro de Mezonzo, who was theAbbot of Sobrado prior to hisappointment as Bishop ofSantiago. In 1142 the monasteryjoined the Cistercian Order,whose members practised andspread the values of monastic

Sobrado – Arzúa – Santiago de Compostela

Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes


hospitality, which provided a vital source of support for thepilgrimages. Sobrado was the first Cistercian monastery established inSpain. Construction started on the great church of the abbey in 1150although in the 17th century it was replaced by a Baroque church. All that is left of the medieval church is the chapel of Saint John(1230), in the north transept, the lovely chapter room (1215-1220)and the kitchen dating from the 13th century.

The Monastery of Sobrado was incorporated into the CistercianCongregation of Castilla in 1498, in the framework of the reform ofthe religious orders sponsored by the Catholic Monarchs. The late15th century marked the beginning of a period of renovation whichalso affected the church and the monastic buildings. This renovationstarted with the building of a new processional cloister in 1560 toreplace the medieval one. It had a rectangular ground plan andelevations of two storeys built according to the Tuscan Order.

The church sacristy, also built during the Renaissance period, was designed following the central plan and exquisite classic tasteof the Master from Santander, Juan de Herrera, who worked on it

The kitchen in the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes Pilgrims’ Cloister. Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes

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from 1569 to 1572. This room is located in the southern arm ofthe transept of the church, occupying the area where, in this partof the medieval church, the original open chapels once stood. It has a square floor plan covered by a half-dome supported bypendentives in the shape of a scallop shell. It is accessed by anentryway in the shape of a semicircular arch of triumph restingon Ionic pilasters.

The 17th century saw intense building activity at the Monastery of Sobrado. Renovation work began in 1623, with the constructionof the Cloister of the Pilgrims, laid out in a square floor plan andtwo storeys high, constructed in two superimposed classic orders:Doric in the lower part and Ionic in the upper area. The outbuildings around this cloister are proof of the monastery’sinterest in providing suitable accommodation to anyone passing by the monastery en route to Santiago de Compostela.

Shortly thereafter, in 1630, work commenced on the newmonastery church. Construction continued in 1647, following thenew designs of the architect, Pedro Monteagudo, who worked on it until his death in 1700, and who created one of the finestexamples of Galician Baroque architecture. This beautiful church,laid out in a Latin cross, has a spectacular elevation in acombination of orders. It also has a dome covering the transeptand a façade, of exceptional verticality and harmoniouslyconceived decoration, which was completed in 1666.

The architect, Pedro Monteagudo, was also the author of theChapel of the Rosary (1673), located in the north transept, forming a magnificent covered space in the central plan with adome resting on pendentives. Its Baroque style is enhanced by thetheatrical effects that play on the atmosphere, decoration,arrangement of the altarpieces and illumination. The richornamental details of this chapel are fashioned in reliefs ofextraordinary naturalism, orchestrated in representations exaltingthe triumph of the Rosary over original sin.

Following the upheaval caused by the disentailment process of the19th century and the subsequent abandonment of the building,the Cistercian monks returned to the monastery to restore it and to bring it back to life. At the present time it has been completelyrestored to its former splendour.

After leaving the hospitality and the safety of Sobrado, the routecontinues on through the villages of Vilarchao, Peruxil and Carelle,

Façade of the Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes

Church of San Lourenzo de Carelle


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where the pilgrim can visit the church of San Lourenzo deCarelle. It then reaches Corredoiras and goes over a crossroadbefore heading towards Boimorto and the centre of Gándara.

The Northern Way finally meets up with the French Way in thetown of Arzúa, famous in the region for its production of superbcheeses. From here the way follows an urban route. There aredocumented sources dating from the 13th century that refer tothis section as the “Oviedo Way”, and today the street stillbears the name of Rúa do Camiño. Here the North Wayconverges with its sister way and shares both infrastructures and route as far as Compostela, the pilgrim’s final goal. In Arzúathe traveller can visit the church of Santiago and the chapel of A Magdalena, which belonged to a pilgrim hospital and if thereis time, he may stay at one of the establishments of rural tourismin the beautiful area around the Portodemouros reservoir.

After leaving Arzúa, the route now becomes the French Way,leading the pilgrim through meadows and woodlands of oak and eucalyptus trees that skirt the small villages of Calzada,Calle, Ferreiros, Salceda, Brea, Santa Irene –where the pilgrimshould make a stop to visit the church– and Rúa, located justbefore Arca, the capital of the municipality of O Pino, the lastone before Santiago.

Once in the municipality of Santiago, the pilgrim reachesLavacolla, after passing by the city airport, and the famousMonte do Gozo –a residential area for pilgrims and visitors–.From the top of this hillock, the pilgrims get their first glimpse of the profile of the city of the Apostle and the towers of thecathedral sheltering the tomb of Saint James.

Pilgrims on their way through Arzúa

The Way in Boimorto


The French Way, the route used by the pilgrims travelling along theNorth Way to gain access to Santiago (258 m), enters the urban partof the city through the district of San Lázaro, which has beenconverted into a service area housing the Conference and ExhibitionCentre, the Stadium, a number of administrative buildingsbelonging to the autonomous government of Galicia and thePavilion of Galicia, with a permanent exhibition on Galicia and thePilgrims’ Ways to Santiago. The two most important historicbuildings in this area, although recent, are the old lepers’ hospital(19th century) and the Chapel of San Lázaro (mid 20th century).

After passing through the residential area of Fontiñas, where oneof the largest shopping centres of the city is located, the pilgrimreaches Os Concheiros, the name of the district and the street,with its stalls tended by vendors selling scallop shells to the newlyarrived pilgrims. Owing to this tradition the pilgrims were popularlyknown in the city as “concheiros’ from the word concha –shell–.

The historic zone of the city becomes visible from the small square ofSan Pedro, with its cruceiro –wayside cross– brimming with legends.Travelling down San Pedro Street, from the junction with the Porta doCamiño –a meaningful name– the pilgrim can see to his right two ofthe city’s most emblematic buildings: the old convent of SanDomingos de Bonaval –where the ‘Museo do Pobo Galego’–Museum of the Galician People– is located–, which houses the onlyGothic church in the city –, the ‘Panteón de Galegos Ilustres’

In Santiago

San Domingos de Bonaval

Quintana Square


–The Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians–, and the Centro Galego de ArteContemporánea (CGAC) –Galician Museum of Modern Art–, designed bythe Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza, and which today has become one ofthe most outstanding exhibition areas for contemporary art in Spain.

After passing the Porta do Camiño, the route begins its final stretchthrough narrow pedestrian streets and squares. The first street is CasasReais, lined with a number of important buildings, and where the guild ofmoney changers was once located. On the left is the small, but charmingNeo-classical parish church of A Nosa Señora do Camiño, and continuingon a few metres more, the pilgrim finds the extraordinary façade of thechapel of As Ánimas, both dating from the late 18th century and offeringinteresting collection that are open to the public.

The last stop before entering the basilica is the Cervantes square, the firstlarge space for meetings and commerce of historic interest in the city, and where the City Hall stood until the end of the 18th century. The parishchurch of San Bieito do Campo –18th century–, also Neo-classical, is one of the oldest buildings in this square.

From this point, the traditional route of the French Way follows the street of A Acibechería, with the imposing façade of the monastery of San MartiñoPinario (17-18th century) on the right, from which access is gained to one ofthe most magnificent cloisters of Galicia and to the Cathedral through theancient Romanesque Paradise Door. This door, known today as A Acibechería,was replaced during the second half of the 18th century while work was beingdone in the transition from the Baroque to the Neo-classical style.

During the Holy Years of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims usually choose to enter the basilica by way of the Holy Door, located in Quintana square.This door is only opened during a Holy Year.

Obradoiro Square

The Cathedral Holy Door


Raxoi Palace

The Thurible

After visiting the Cathedral, the place wherepilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy atour of the city of Santiago in all its historicsplendour, taking in the diversity and dynamicappearance it offers today.

The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostelaevolved from a small settlement of monks whowere the custodians of the tomb of the Apostleat the time of its discovery, around the year 820.The city underwent spectacular developmentduring the Middle Ages, thanks to the popularityof pilgrimages in Europe, which made it, alongwith Jerusalem and Rome, one of the three greatcentres of the Christian world.

Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, the cityalternated between prosperity and decadence,in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of thehistory of Galicia, Spain and Europe. Pilgrimagesbecame less and less important, but Santiagoconsolidated its position as a centre of culture,learning and spirituality thanks to the foundingof the University and the city’s Renaissance andBaroque heritage, mirrored in most of its majorhistorical monuments and buildings.

In the Cathedral The Cathedral of Santiago, whose constructionbegan in the year 1075, is one of the greatEuropean monuments from both an artistic andsymbolic standpoint. From its Romanesqueorigins, it evolved through a number of styles,although the Baroque elements are perhapsthe most outstanding, culminating in thefaçade of O Obradoiro (1738-1750). A tour ofthe naves and its Museum reveals aninteresting and varied heritage both in contentand significance.

During his visit to the cathedral andsurroundings, the pilgrim usually carries out aritual that takes him to the chapel of the mainaltar, in keeping with the tradition, to‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James

–a sculpture of Romanesque origin– and next,to visit the crypt where his remains are buried.A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part ofthe ritual, as is attending the pilgrims’ mass at 12 noon, where the swinging of thebotafumeiro, hanging high up in the nave ofthe transept surprises and delights the visitor.

After his visit to the Cathedral, if the pilgrimhas all the required credentials justifying hispilgrimage, on foot, on horseback or bybicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims’ Office toask for the compostela, the documentaccrediting his pilgrimage, which is granted bythe Cathedral Chapter. From this moment on,the city of Santiago de Compostela belongs tothe pilgrim to enjoy and to treasure.

The historic city


The City of Culture

Galician Centre of Contemporary Art

Santiago has enjoyed steady growth sincethe mid 20th century. In addition to thegradual rebirth of the pilgrimages, which keep its traditional spiritualsignificance alive, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist and cultural attraction.

In recent years, Santiago, the administrativecapital of the autonomous region of Galicia,has seen the construction of a number ofimportant cultural and tourist infrastructuresand it has succeeded in projecting aninternational image as a European oriented historic and cultural centre. Proof of this are the thousands of visitors that flock to the city every day throughout the year.

Declared a World Heritage Site byUNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintainits thousand year old tradition of harmony,spirituality and progress through thehistoric tradition of its Pilgrims’ Way.

The modern-day city

27 The North Way


28

1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmírez Palace

2 Raxoi Palace

3 Reis Católicos Hotel

4 College of San Xerome

5 Church of San Fructuoso

6 Fonseca College

7 Cabildo House

8 Conga House

9 Parra House

10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares

11 Monastery of San Martiño Pinario

12 Church of San Martiño Pinario

13 The Dean’s House. Pilgrims’ Office

14 Vaamonde Palace

15 Bendaña Palace

16 Church of Santa María Salomé

17 Convent of San Francisco

18 Convent of Carme

19 Convent of Santa Clara

20 Church and former hospital of San Roque

21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum

22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People

23 Galician Centre of Modern Art

24 Faculty of History and Geography

25 University Church

26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio

27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers

28 School of As Orfas

29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros

30 Church of Santa María do Camiño

31 Church of San Bieito do Campo

32 Convent of Santo Agostiño

33 San Clemente College

34 General Chapel of Ánimas

35 Chapel of Santiago

36 Church of El Pilar

37 The Collegiate Church of Santa María a Real de Sar

North Way / French Way


29 The North Way

Map of Santiago’s historic centre


From left to right, the pilgrim’s hostels atRibadeo, Lourenzá, Vilalba and Sobrado

Pilgrim’s hostelsStarting 01 January 2008, in order to gain access to theshelters, pilgrims must buy a shelter voucher (3 €) ineach one, which is only authorised for use in theestablishments that were procured and on the datethat appears on the front of the voucher. It will not bevalid on any other date or in any other shelter. You mayonly stay one night in each shelter except the Montedo Gozo and San Lázaro, both in Santiago deCompostela. The number of pilgrims that will beaccommodated each day will be limited to theavailable beds in each establishment. The order ofpriority is always the same: Pilgrims who travel by foot, on horseback, by bicycle and those with anescort vehicle.

Once the voucher is acquired, it is very important tokeep it until you leave the shelter. If not, the sheltercan ask the pilgrim to vacate the premises. You must


leave the shelter before 8 a.m. so that it can becleaned. It will be open for accommodation from 1 p.m. until 10 p.m.

If any pilgrim with reduced mobility arrives, onecan request the collaboration of those persons,who are already accommodated after the shelter is filled to capacity, in order to assist in hisaccommodation in the establishment.

However, pilgrims and other travellers have arange of alternative accommodation options.There are a number of religious and municipalcentres also serving the pilgrim, especially duringbusier periods. In recent times a wide-range ofmodern hotels and rural tourism establishmentshas cropped up along the different routes whichhave added to the diversity of the services andattractions to be found along the Way.


32

RibadeoRehabilitated building*O Cargadeiro recreation area.Ribadeo12 beds8 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 30 km(Vilanova de Lourenzá)

Vilanova de LourenzáRehabilitated building*Campo da Feira, 15. Vilanova de Lourenzá20 beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 8 km(Mondoñedo)

MondoñedoRehabilitated sacristy of theChapel of the Venerable Orden Tercera de San Francisco*San Pedro de Alcántara, s/n.Mondoñedo28 beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 17 km (Gontán, Abadín)

Interior of the refuge of Baamonde

Pilgrims’ hostels Information on the Way

1. Ribadeo

2. Vilanova de Lourenzá

3. Mondoñedo

4. Gontán

5. Vilalba

6. Baamonde

7. Sobrado dos Monxes

8. Arzúa

9. Santa Irene

10. O Pino

11. Monte do Gozo

12. San Lázaro


33 The North Way

GontánRehabilitated buildingGontán, Abadín26 bedsDistance from next hostel: 22 km(Vilalba)

VilalbaNewly constructed building*Polígono industrial de Vilalba. Zona de la Cruz Roja. Vilalba48 beds10 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 18 km(Baamonde, Begonte)

BaamondeRehabilitated house*Carretera Terra Chá, 9. Baamonde. Begonte94 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 41 km(Sobrado dos Monxes)

Sobrado dos MonxesRehabilitated areas of the “Casa das audiencias” in theMonastery of Sobrado dos Monxes*Monasterio de Sobrado dosMonxes. C/ Convento, s/n. Sobrado dos Monxes66 bedsDistance from next hostel: 23 km (Arzúa)

ArzúaRehabilitated traditional town house*Cima do Lugar, 6. Arzúa48 beds 10 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 17 km(Santa Irene, O Pino)

Santa IreneRehabilitated country house*Santa Irene. Arca. O Pino36 beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 4 km (Arca, O Pino)

O PinoNewly constructed building*Pedrouzo. Arca. O Pino126 beds Distance from next hostel: 15 km(Monte do Gozo, Santiago de Compostela)

Monte do GozoNewly constructed complex*Monte do Gozo. Santiago de Compostela400 beds (800, Holy Year)100 parking spaces for bicycles

San Lázaro (pilgrim’s hostel)Purpose built construction*San Lázaro, s/n Santiago de Compostela80 bedsParking for bicycles

* Accommodation with disabled and special needs facilities.


34

ServicesTown Councils

RibadeoPza. de España, 1Tel.: +34 982-120701Fax: +34 [email protected]

BarreirosRúa Vila, 63. San Cosme de BarreirosTel.: +34 982-124002Fax: +34 [email protected]

TrabadaRúa do Concello, 15Tel.: +34 982-135011 Fax: +34 982-135257

Vilanova de LourenzáPza. do Conde Santo, s/nTel.: +34 982-121006Fax: +34 [email protected]

MondoñedoPza. do Concello, 1Tel.: +34 982-524003Fax: +34 [email protected]

AbadínXeneral Franco, 29Tel.: +34 982-508021Fax: +34 [email protected]@eidolocal.es

VilalbaPza. da Constitución, 1Tel.: +34 982-510305Fax: +34 [email protected]

GuitirizRúa do Concello, 4Tel.: +34 982-370109Fax: +34 [email protected]

BegontePza. dos Irmáns Souto-Montenegro, 1Tel.: +34 982-396143Fax: +34 [email protected]

FriolPza. de España, 1Tel.: +34 982-375001Fax: +34 [email protected]/friol

Sobrado dos MonxesPza. Portal, 1Tel.: +34 981-787508Fax: +34 [email protected]

BoimortoVilanova, 1Tel.: +34 981-516020Fax: +34 [email protected]

ArzúaRúa Santiago, 2Tel.: +34 981-500000Fax: +34 [email protected]

O PinoPedrouzo, s/n. ArcaTel.: +34 981-511002Fax: +34 [email protected]

Santiago de CompostelaPza. do Obradoiro, s/nPazo de RaxoiTel.: +34 981-542300Fax: +34 [email protected]


Medical emergencies061

Emergencies(general, free of charge and international)112

Xacobeo Information

Information Office in SantiagoTel.: +34 902-332010Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground [email protected]

www.xacobeo.es

Rural Tourism Central Reservations OfficeTel.: +34 [email protected]

Tourist Information OfficeRibadeoRúa Dionisio Gamallo Fierros, s/nTel.: +34 982-128689

LugoPza. Maior, 27-29Tel.: +34 982-231361

A CoruñaDársena da Mariña, s/n.Tel.: +34 981-221822

Santiago de CompostelaRúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floorTel.: +34 981-584081

TurgaliciaTel.: +34 902-200432Fax: +34 981-542510www.turgalicia.es

Emergency Service

35 The North Way



37 The North Way

The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the Camino de Santiago or the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago.

The heyday of the pilgrimages took placebetween the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries with the granting of specific spiritualindulgences. This trend, however,has endured to a greater or lesser extentover the course of the centuries. Since the mid 20th century the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has been experiencing an international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of peoples and cultures.

Traditionally the Pilgrims’ Ways are at theirbusiest during the Holy Years, held at intervalsof 6, 5, 6, and 11 years, but any time is ideal

for following the Way towards its ultimate goal:the city of Santiago de Compostela.

The Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago



Throughout its twelve hundred year history, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiagohas given rise to an extraordinary spiritual, cultural and social vitality.Thanks to the existence of the Way, the first network of assistance inEurope came into being and monasteries, cathedrals and new urbancentres were founded.

A new culture was born from the convergence of peoples of diversebackgrounds, based on the free exchange of ideas, artistic and socialtrends, in addition to a socio-economic driving force which boosted the development of a number of areas in Europe, especially during theMiddle Ages. The mark left by the Way and by the pilgrims on the city of Santiago de Compostela can be clearly seen from an endless number of public and private testimonies, in the different art forms, and also, for example, in the publication of over one thousand books worldwide,which in recent decades have extolled the virtues of this Way, a work of art and the heritage of all Europeans.

The main routes of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago were declared the First European Cultural Itinerary (1987) by the Council of Europe and aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO in the stretches travelling across Spain

and France (1993 and 1998, respectively). In 2004 it also receivedthe Prince of Asturias Award for Harmony

from the Prince of AsturiasFoundation.

The Pilgrims’ Way in Europe


According to ancient legend, the Iberian Peninsulaformed part of the lands where the Apostle Saint Jamespreached Christianity. After he was beheaded in 44 AD,tradition says that his disciples took the body of the saint by boat to Galicia, one of the Spanish lands he preached in.

The difficult times during the early years of Christianityand the fact that most of the northern part of thepeninsula was sparsely populated would have meant that the exact location of the burial site would have falleninto oblivion. However, around the year 820 remains werefound which were attributed by the ecclesiastic and civilauthorities to be those of Saint James the Greater. This event, which took place in remote Galicianwoodland, would give rise to the founding of the present day city of Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago became the attractive goal of a pilgrimage thatwould, over the centuries, lead pilgrims from all walks oflife and via the most diverse itineraries, to the tomb ofthe only apostle of Jesus, along with Saint Peter in Rome,who is buried on European soil.

Galicia, the land of Saint James

40


The diverse origins of these pilgrims gave rise to a total of six European ways leading to Galicia.

The busiest and most important itinerary from a socio-economic,artistic and cultural view, is the route known as the French Way,which enters Spain across the Pyrenees and Galicia via themythical hills of O Cebreiro.

However, there are five other itineraries that have also earned aplace for themselves in the history of the pilgrimages to Santiago.

The Galician Ways

French Way

Southeast Way–Vía da Prata

Portuguese Way

Route of the Sea of Arousa and the Ulla River

Fisterra-Muxía Way

English Way

Northern Way

Original Way

41 The North Way


They are the Original and North Ways,of great importance in the early pilgrimagedays, with two major routes that enterGalicia via Asturias, from the BasqueCountry and Cantabria; the English Way,followed particularly by pilgrims, who from northern Europe and the BritishIsles arrived at ports such as A Coruña and Ferrol; the Portuguese Way, whichwas used by pilgrims travelling fromPortugal up through Galicia’s south-western region; and the Southeast Way,used by pilgrims who, on their way to Santiago from the south and centre of the Peninsula, followed the popular Vía de la Plata, between Mérida andAstorga, continuing on into the territory of Ourense to Santiago de Compostela.

O Cebreiro. The French Way

Oseira. The South East Way –The Silver Way

“Compostela” and credential A Coruña. The English Way


There are two other routes whosesymbolism is believed to be closelylinked to the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago:the Fisterra-Muxía Way, used by anumber of medieval pilgrims, who afterworshipping at the tomb of the apostle,were enticed to undertake the journeyto Cape Finisterre, the westernmostpoint on earth known at the time; and the route known as the Route ofthe Sea of Arousa and the River Ulla,recalling the itinerary, which accordingto tradition, was taken by the boatbearing the mortal remains of theApostle to Galicia (1st century).

Cape Fisterra. The Fisterra-Muxía Way

43 The North Way


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