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August 18 – 31 2010 timeout.com.hk 31 «««««« Less than Crystal clear Emulating Crystal Jade’s menu is a bold move for this new Shanghainese restaurant, especially as its first shop is in Times Square right next to a branch of Crystal Jade. This could be a smart move or a really stupid one, as the two shops’ proximity invites comparison. What were the landlords thinking pairing these two? Their menus match verbatim. If the name Lei Bistro sounds vaguely familiar it’s because this is the little Shanghainese sister of the Lei Garden chain. Here they do xiao long baos by the steamer, dan dan mein by the bowl and their sister’s famous char sui. But not, in our opinion, to the same impressive effect. First, if Lei Garden is known for their char sui ($68), it’s a shame that the brand is let down by the non-comparable version at Lei Bistro. The only word to describe the appearance of ours was grey. We thought it might have been warmed in the microwave, but could not confirm it. It was tough and, without the thick belt of fat, would have been tougher. The biggest disappointment of the day was the xiao long bao ($26). If you are situated next door to The House of Xiao Long Bao (Crystal Jade), then you better proffer some that stand up to the competition or else take them off the menu. These shunken little purses lacked the requisite burst of soup and the meat was white and tight as it had just been let loose from the deep freezer. The soup wasn’t sweet either and we didn’t bother to finish the basket of four pieces. An improvement was the dan dan mein ($35). A bowl of instant noodles with sweet-spicy chilli broth and bits of minced pork and pickled vegetables arrived when things were looking dire. The noodles soften in the soup, so it is of utmost importantance to eat them straight away. Tastily spiced with peanut, sesames and chillis, the broth soaked into the instant noodles and made for good slurping. But even this bowl of noodles wasn’t enough to cancel out the previous disappointments. Go next door and have yourself a decent Shanghainese meal while this place figures out how to right its wrongs. Angie Wong Shop B217-B218, B2, Times Square,1 Matheson St, Causeway Bay, 2602 8283. Daily 11am-11pm. Meal for two: $300. «««««« Pho-pho It’s hard not to notice the modern and casual Vietnamese eatery 1941. With an inviting and unintimidating atmosphere, it can sit only 30 people and much of the time that means there’s a crowd waiting outside. While visiting during peak hours can be hard work, we were lucky enough to get a table immediately. The menu is simple and straightforward. It offers noodle soups, cold vermicelli, rice meals and side dishes. Though deep- fried buttered chicken wings and the Vietnamese version of fried Cambodian rice noodle (both reasonably priced at $38) looked enticing, we decided to stick with the classics. For starters, the freshly made rice rolls ($36) struck a good opening note. They were filled with vermicelli noodles, julienned cucumbers and carrots, chicken slices, small shrimps and fresh basil leaves that tasted refreshingly appetising. When dipped in the Chinese hoisin sauce with crushed peanuts to add a little flavour, they give your taste buds a good kick. The mark of a classy Vietnamese restaurant is the quality of its pho. At 1941, this normally soulful dish lacked a beefy note. But, despite the lack of this distinctive taste and any garnish, the raw beef and thin rice noodles still appealed to hungry stomachs. The same went for the lemongrass pork chop, which was served with a huge serving of rice ($36). Topped with dried garlic bits and chopped spring onions, the fragrant meat slices were tenderly cooked except for some parts which were disappointingly sinewy and tough. Despite the poor English of the waiting staff and the so-so food, 1941 is a decent shout for a quick fix of relatively inexpensive Vietnamese fare. Apple Mandy Shop 2, 58-62 Caine Rd, Mid-Levels, 3483 3445. Daily noon-4pm & 6pm- 9.30pm. Meal for two: around $150. Fresh spring rolls Striking a good opening note Pork parcels Despite being in close proximity to some of the best, these weren’t CALVIN SIT Food & Drink Side orders Little Sis The Eclipse group has added another venue to its stable. Lil’ Siam may be smaller than its sister restaurant Café Siam but it’s big on flavours. It gives a nod to all the regions of Thailand with an emphasis on Bangkok street food and authentic ingredients. The bar also kicks out signature Thai drinks to be enjoyed on the back-terrace. 38 Elgin St, Soho, 2868 4445. Slice of New York Sai Kung's Paisano’s has delivered on its promise to bring Hong Kong’s largest pizza to the masses. You’ll soon be able to enjoy their New York- style slices in Central. The plywood is up on Lyndhurst Terrace and the pizza joint will not only kick out its signature pizza but subs, calzones, pastas and strambolis. They’ll be doing fresh salads as well. Pleased to meat you With the opening of Pacific Gourmets second outlet in Central you no longer have to schlep to Horizon Plaza for your steaks. Specialising in fresh, never frozen cuts of Australian meat this butcher shop has your summer cookouts covered. We particularly love the hanger steak and fresh ground hamburgers but don’t overlook the wine, cheese, and antipasti. They also have an array of seafood including fresh lobster tanks. 53 Caine Road, Mid-Levels, 2898 9000. Custard for a cause Another reason to feel good about eating desserts (like we don’t already): The Peninsula Hotel will donate all proceeds from sales of their popular mini egg custard moon cakes to the KELY support group. This non-profit organisation assists local youths suffering from drug and alcohol addictions, low self-esteem and negative body image issues. A box of eight is priced at $198, and the deadline for orders is August 25. Visit www.kely.org or call 2521 6890 to request an order form. A lil’ taste of Thailand At Lil’Siam Lei Bistro 1941 61.07 Food&DrinK.indd 31 6/30/11 10:21:31 AM
