1st Year Buttons

8/3/2019 1st Year Buttons

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BU

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OBJECTIVE

TO KNOW THE HISTORY AND USAGE OF

BUTTONS

TYPES OF BUTTONS,DEPENDING ON THEUSAGE.

DIFFERENT RAW MATERIALS,WHICH

DETERMINES THEIR USE.


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INTRODUCTION-BUTTONS

A Grandmothers button box could delightchildren for hours with exciting colors, shapesand textures of hundreds of buttons, large andsmall.


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Grandmother could always remember theexact garment from which any particular

button came.

Buttons were an important commodity andonce a garment was too worn to wear, the

buttons were removed to be used again.


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Stone age mother of pearl excavated buttons.

The history of buttons holds many secrets about the past and

the civilizations that used them. Archaeologists even found

buttons or button-like objects in pre-historic burial grounds.

Buttons were used as ornaments rather than fasteners & have been discovered in

the Indus Valley Civilization (circa 2800-2600 BC) as well as Bronze Age sites in

China (circa 2000-1500 BCE), and Ancient Rome.


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Functional buttons withbuttonholes for fastening or

closing clothing appeared

first in Germany in the 13thcentury.[5] They soon

became widespread with

the rise of snug-fitting

garments in 13th- and 14th-century Europe.


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The Crusaders, returning from battles in the Middle East,are believed to have introduced the buttonhole to Europe.This significant invention had a great impact on fashion,since fabrics could now be overlapped and buttoned.


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Kings and queens

even had buttons

inlaid with gems tosignify their wealth

and status. During

the 17th century, as

garments became

more form-fitting,

the button gained

importance for bothits decorative and

utilitarian features.


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Rembrandt, Portrait of Jan

Six, 1654

During the 17th

century, men over-

decorated their

garments with rows of

buttons made from yarn

or tin.

Those who could afford

it sported buttons made

of copper, nickel or

silver.

The button ragereached its climax a

century later. The bigger

the prettier was the

motto in those days.


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Buttons were

usedpredominantly

on mens

fashions(waistcoats,

vests and

breeches)..


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at that time women still

fastened their clothing with

laces and hooks.

In the 18th century,

buttons became a craze

as decorative itemson womens clothing

since,


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Male fashion became

sober during the 19th

century.

In the 20th century, cuff

links were often the onlyadornments that most

men were allowed to

wear.


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However, the importance of buttons for mens

clothing dominated the industry until the mid

19th century when buttons, both functional

and decorative, were prevalent in both mens

and womens fashions.


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TYPES OF BUTTONS

Shank buttons have a small

ring or a bar with a hole

called the shank protruding

from the back of the

button, through which

thread is sewn to attach

the button.Three sew-throughbuttons (left) andone shank coveredbutton (right).


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Covered buttons are fabric-covered forms

with a separate back piece that secures the

fabric over the knob.


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FLAT OR SEW THRU BUTTONS

These buttons have two or four holespunched through the button throughwhich the thread is sewn to attachthe button.


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Flat buttons may be attached by sewing

machine rather than by hand, and may beused with heavy fabrics by working a thread

shank to extend the height of the button

above the fabric.


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Worked or cloth buttons are created by

embroidering or crocheting tight stitches

(usually with linen thread) over a knob or ring

called a form.


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Mandarin buttons or Frogs are knobs made ofintricately knotted strings.

Mandarin buttons are a key element in Mandarindress (Qi Pao and cheongsam in Chinese), wherethey are closed with loops.

Pairs of mandarin buttons worn as cuff links are

called silk knots.


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Button sizes-The size of the button depends on

its use. Shirt buttons are generally small, and

spaced close together, whereascoat buttons are larger and

spaced further apart.


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Buttons are commonly measured in

lignes (also called lines and abbreviated

L), with 40 lignes equal to 1 inch.

For example, some standard sizes of

buttons are 16 lignes (10.16 mm,

standard button of men's shirts) and 32lignes (20.32 mm, typical button on suit

jackets).

How to calculate the button liney/100 x 160.(y=mm of the button).


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BUTTONHOLES

Machine-stitched keyhole buttonhole with bar.

Machine stitched simple buttonhole


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Example of reject Button Hole

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO SELECT THE THREAD WITHWHICH THE BUTTONHOLE SHALL BE MADE DEPENDING

ON THE FINENESS\THICKNESS OF

THE FABRIC ,COLOR IS DESIGNERS DECISION.


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Functional buttons (as opposed to decorativebuttons) are normally paired with a

buttonhole.


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Alternately, a decorative loop ofcloth or rope

may replace the buttonhole.


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Buttonholes may be either made by handsewing or automated by a sewing machine.


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Some items of clothing contain buttons onlyfor decoration and do not actually have a

button hole.


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On the other hand, some articles of clothing

have button holes without an accompanyingbutton, most notably the lapels of most suits.


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Buttonholes often have a bar at either end.The bar is a perpendicular stitch that

reinforces the ends of a buttonhole.


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A snap fastener(also called snap,

popper, and press

stud) is a pair ofinterlocking discs

commonly used in

place of buttons to

fasten clothing.


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A circular lip under onedisc fits into a groove

on the top of the other,

holding them fast until

a certain amount offorce is applied.


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Snap fasteners are often used in children'sclothing, as they are relatively easy for

children to use.


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RIVETS-use to secure multi folds of

fabric at a point .


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Snaps can be attached to fabric by hammering

(using a specific punch and die set), plying, or

sewing. For plying snap fasteners, there are

special snap pliers.


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BUTTON TYPE

METAL BUTTONS


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METAL BUTTON

Pewter:

In the late 18th & early19th centuries, pewter wasused for buttons in mens fashions, but by 1830 thebrass button replaced the pewter button.

Pewter buttons appeared again in the late 19thcentury, however, this time in ladies fashions.


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METAL BUTTON

Brass: An alloy of copper and zinc,

brass has been used to manufacture

more buttons than any other material. The brassbutton industry peeked between 1820 & 1850. This

period is often called the Golden Age because of

the superior quality of these buttons.


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METAL BUTTON

Silver: Silver buttons became fashionable in the

mid 1800s through the early 19th century. In the19th century silver buttons were large and made

for mens overcoats.


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PLASTIC BUTTONS


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PLASTIC BUTTON

Celluloid: First used as a substitute fortusk ivory and wood. Buttons constructed with

celluloid parts appeared in the 1897 Sears &Roebuck catalog. These buttons are rather

fragile.


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PLASTIC BUTTON

Bakelite: Bakelite buttons became very stylishabout 1940 to 1950. They produced a fresh warmfeel, the color combinations were delightful.


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PLASTIC BUTTON

Lucite: Lucite, the trade name of syntheticthermoplastic acrylic resin, was used to make

buttons in the mid 1930s. Lucite was produced by DuPont Plastics in

Arlington, New Jersey. During World War II,Lucite was used to make gun turrets as well as

other practical home items.


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NATURAL BUTTONS


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NATURAL BUTTONS

Ivory: Ivory is the hard, white dentine whichmakes up the tusks of elephants, whales, walrusesand hippopotamus. Because of its rarity,manufacturers began to use animal bones toimitate expensive ivory buttons as early as the 18th

century.


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NATURAL BUTTON

Wood: The earliestsurviving wooden buttonsare smooth, turned discsmounted with nail headshanks made during the 18th

and early 19th centuries.


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NATURAL BUTTON

Horn: Horn buttons made from both the hoovesand horns of cattle and other animals. Most

molded horn buttons were dyed black or dark

brown. After 1880 fewer black molded buttons

were made in favor of more natural colors.


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NATURAL BUTTONS Vegetable Ivory: First presented at the 1862 Universal Exposition

in Paris, vegetable ivory buttons were carved from the corozonuts of the tague palm.

The material resembled ivory, therefore vegetable ivory. Thematerial was so dense, the dye would only penetrate the surfacelayer, the interior remains uncolored. Production reached a peakbetween 1870 and 1920.


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NATURAL BUTTONSHard Rubber: In 1839, Goodyear secured apatent for vulcanization, a process usingextreme heat and sulfur with hard rubber toform products. One famous rubber button

was the Anchor design with border starswhich was originally manufactured for Navypeacoats.


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NATURAL BUTTONS

Mother-of-Pearl: Pearl buttons are made from the nacreous(pearly) lining of shells of various marine or freshwatermollusca found principally in warm waters. Freshwater pearl

buttons have less iridescence than ocean pearls. Eighteenthcentury pearl buttons were large (approximately 1-1/4 inches)and considered the most beautiful ocean pearl buttons evermade. Buttons made from seashell were used in the IndusValley Civilization for ornamental purposes by 2000 BCE.


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NATURAL BUTTONSN

Shell: Shell is a term used by American collectorsto differentiate buttons made from mollusca shells

rather than nacreous (pearly) linings. The earliest

buttons were cut from the white layer, the grey orbrown portions were considered to be inferior. It

was not until after 1800

that brown or grey shells

were used.


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GLASS BUTTON


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GLASS BUTTON

Passemeterie: Named for the 18th century design

of fabric buttons, these buttons were faceted piecesof black glass soldered or riveted to a metal back to

form an open work design. Quite rare.


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GLASS BUTTON

Jet and Black Glass: Prince Albert of England died in 1861and Queen Victoria, the fashion setter of the times, went into

mourning. Her mourning jewelry and buttons were made ofjet, a light weight, highly fragile, expensive mineral mined inWhitby, England. Overnight, the black glass industry becamehighly active. Black remained the predominant fashion colorfor over two decades. True jet is rare and feels warm to the

touch.


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Luster Finishes: Lusteris a metallic sheenapplied to black glass

buttons for awonderfully, uniquelook.

Calico: Calicoes refersto China buttonspainted with thedesigns of the calicofabric. Calico fabricmade by the CalcuttaIndian Company about1840.

M ld d Gl F


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Molded Glass: Fancy

Glass buttons of the late

19th century were

molded clear with paint

or transfer designs

applied to the back.

Moon glow: Moon glowbuttons have opaque

bases which give the

illusion of swirl or eye inthe center and made

between 1940 and 1960.


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ASSIGNMENT

GO TO THE MARKET AND SOURCE BUTTONS

OF DIFFERENT TYPES,BASE MATERIALS.

SUBMIT FILE WITH BUTTONS ON A4 BASE

CARD SHEET.

TACK THE BUTTONS WITH WHITE OR BLACK

THREAD ONTO 1 WIDE WHITE OR BLACK

SATIN TAPE.

Date post:	06-Apr-2018
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1st Year Buttons

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