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©2009 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com
Sommelier Journal 45
COVERSTORY
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Beachfront restaurant in Nice (left); Domaines Ott Clos Mireille vineyard in La Londe-les-Maures (above); bouillabaisse (below).
Withplentiful sunshine, a ruggedcoastline,quaintfishingvillages,and some of the most deliciousseafoodintheworld,Provenceis
almost as well known to American visitors asParisis.SituatedbetweentheRhônedeltaandNiceinsoutheasternFrance,Provenceiseasilyaccessiblebylandorsea.ThegrittyportofMar-seille—a city that Julia Child called home forayear,and theplacewheresheclaims tohavelearned themostabout trueFrenchcooking—iscounterbalancedbythefabulousCannes,an-choringtheCôted’Azur.
SummerinProvenceisheavenonearth.Ce-ruleanskies, ruggedmountains,Alpinemead-ows,andthecalmMediterraneansetthestage.Sunburnedtouristssiproséwiththeirleisurelylunches at chic beachfront clubs like Saint-Tropez’sClub55ontheFrenchRiviera.Onlan-guoroussummerafternoons,thematingcallsofthemalecicadas,orcigales,gentlyliftonefrom
CATHERINE FALLIS, MS, ACWP
COVERSTORYCOVERSTORYCOVERSTORY
Provence:Heaven for the Senses
September 200946
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asultrystuporjustintimetoenjoyanotherroundasthesunsetsandtheProvençaleveningcaressesthesensesyetagain.
Grasse,theworld’sperfumecapital,ishere,asaresomeofthemostfragrantflowersontheplanet.Scentsofclassicgarrigue,theperfumeofthescrublands—olive,cypress,andAleppopinegroves—filltheair,andfieldsofwildthyme,rosemary,andlavenderabound.Garlicisintheair,too,andit’sconsumedinsalaciousquantities—mostlyintheformofaio-li,therich,homemadegarlicmayonnaise.“Provençalcaviar”(atapenadeofblackolives,anchovies,andcapers)andratatouillearestaples;herbes de Provenceroundoutmanydishes.Onthelighterside,onecanenjoytheblack-olive-and-tuna-based salade Niçoise, freshseaurchins,orafiletofrouget.Richerdishesincludebouillabaisse,aProvençalstewoffishandshellfish.Fresh, fragrantwhitesandrosésfromtheregioncomplementeventhestrongestflavorsofthesedishes,whilethemoreformidableBan-dolrouge—thefavoritewineofin-the-knowregularsandlocals—isbettersuitedforthelocalSisteronlamb.
Winegrowing areasPhoenician traders established a trading post at Marseille around
600B.C.,plantinggrapesandmakingthefirstwinesinFrenchhistory.TheGreeksandtheRomansfollowed,andtheareabecameanimportantwinegrowingcenter.JuliusCaesar,andlaterKingLouisXVandtheroyalfamily,favoredBandolwines;inmorerecenttimes,BandolswerevaluedalmostashighlyasBordeaux.
This crescent-moon-shaped land tumbles down lazily amid scrubandbrushfromtheAlpinefoothillstothesea.TheclimateisdistinctlyMediterranean.Ahighlytouted3,000hoursofsunlightperyear(avinerequiresonly1,300)helpmakeupforsharpfluctuationsinweather.Af-tershort,violentMediterraneanstorms,theblastingmistralwindquicklydriesthevines,keepingthemdisease-free.“ThemistralistheProvençalwinemaker’sbestfriend,”saysLucienPeyraud,ownerofbenchmarkpro-ducerDomaineTempier.“Anyrainisimmediatelywindblowndry,avoid-ingrot.”Thewindissostrong,however,thatitcanripapartuntrainedvinesorevenwholevineyardsplantedontheunprotectedplains.Terracedsitesonlimestonebluffsoverlookingtheseaareideal,asfoundinBandolandCassis, though the largest grape-growing areas stretch all thewayfromthecoasttothemountains.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, CoteauxVarois, andCôtes de Provenceare themajorsubappellations, supplying theworldwithdry,understat-ed rosés. Les Baux-de-Provence, the first FrenchAppellation d’Origine
Salade Niçoise (top left); Provençal herbs and spices (top right); ratatouille (middle); slow-roasted shoulder of lamb stuffed with herbs (above).
Sommelier Journal 47
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provence
Contrôlée (AOC) torequirebiodynamic farming,producesseriousredsinaddition to rosés.The tinyPaletteAOC,northofMarseille, ishometoChâteauSimone,producerofthetopwhitewinesinProvence.Cassisisalsobestknownforitswhites.Thesmall,steeplyslopedBelletAOC,producingwinesofallthreecolors,sitsontheeasternedgeoftheregion,justoutsideNice.Vins de paysarewidelyavailableintheu.S.marketandrepresent the Provençal characterwell, but because this category oftenendsupinthechainsatadiscount,it’swisetodoaretailsurveybeforemakingacommitment.
Although therewas apush towardplanting international varieties,especiallyCabernetSauvignon,overthelastdecadeorso,thefocushasrecentlyshiftedbacktoindigenousgrapes,severalofwhicharenotgrownelsewhere inFrance.Top-labelwhitesareoftenblendsofseveralvariet-ies, includingBourboulenc, Rolle, Clairette,GrenacheBlanc, Viognier,Marsanne,SauvignonBlanc,Sémillon,ugniBlanc,andChardonnay,butvins de paysareoftenvarietallyfocused.GrenacheandSyrahfactorheav-ilyintorosésandsimplerreds,withMourvèdreprovidingthestructureandlongevityforpremiumreds,mostnotablyBandol.Althoughred-wineproductionisclimbinginBandol,Bellet,andPalette,75%ofthebottlingsintheseareasarestilltheubiquitousdryrosés.
“Crisp,dryrosésandforcefulredsarewhattheregionisknownfor,”saysimporterFranKyselaofKyselaPereetFils.VictorOwenSchwartz,ownerofVOSSelections,saysheimportsProvençalwinesbecause“theyhavebright,cleanflavorsandareterroir-driven,notoak-driven.”
Sommeliers’ choiceThequalityofwinemadeinProvencetodayowesmuchtothepio-
neeringspiritofDomaineTempier’sPeyraud,whohelpedorganizeaBan-dolproducers’syndicateandurgedtheAOCtorequireMourvèdreasthebasisofBandolrouge.PeyraudhadlearnedthatmostofthevineyardswereplantedtoMourvèdrebeforephylloxerawipedthemout,andthatthegrapeaddsaheartyrichness,afirmstructure,andaflashof sauvage to thesofter, prettier Gren-ache. Over the years,the Peyrauds have ac-quired three old-vineMourvèdrevineyards—
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Les Baux-de-Provence village (left); port of Bandol (center); Nice carnival (right).
Calanques harbor in Cassis (top); vineyards in Vaucluse (above); Château Peyrassol vineyard in Flassans-sur-Issole (below).
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Château Routas Viognier Vin de Pays du Var Coquelicot 2007 $16Pale-straw-coloredandslightlyspritzy,thisrich,tropicalwhitehasnotesofpeach,mango,litchi,tangerine,honey,limestone,andacacia.Althoughit’sfairlyweighty,arefreshingaciditykicksinatthefinish.
Château Simone Palette Blanc 2006 $60Brightgolden-yellow,withambertingesindicatingmaturity.Onthenose,thissubtle,complexwhitedisplaysnotesofhoneydew,marzipan,rosemary,thyme,lemongrass,hay,andchalk.Roundandcreamyonthepalate,ithasthatsoft,sexygrasoffineBurgundy(orfoie),alongwithbright-lemon,peach,toasted-almond,andmineralnotes;gentleyetpersistentacids;andaseatang.it’selegant,understated,delicate,abitmysteri-ous,anddefinitelyhaunting.
Domaine de Triennes Viognier Vin de Pays du Var Sainte-Fleur 2007 $16Brightstrawincolor,withanoseofclean,freshlemon,lime,honey,nectarine,apricot,mango,banana,papaya,pineapple,andslate.Thiswineismedium-bodiedandintense,showingapleasant,roundcreaminess,thoughbriskacidswakeupthepalatelikeasplashinthesea.
Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc 2007 $24Brightstraw-yellow,withuniquearomasofpineneedle,driedbrush,sage,lemonzest,acacia,andhoney.Onthepalate,itismedium-bodied,clean,anddelicate,withdriedherbsandlemonzestandalongpine-needle-sea-mistfinish.Theacidsarebrightandpersistent,butgentle.
Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol Blanc 2008 $32Pale-straw-coloredandmoderatelyviscous,witharomasofhoney,lemon,peach,apricot,andwhiteflowers.Thepalateismedium-bodied,showingpink-grapefruitandchalknotes;bright,freshacidity;andtarandgingerbacknotes.Thisdry,elegantwinehasechoesofwhitenectarineandrosewateronthelongfinish.
Mas de la Dame Coteaux d’Aix-en-ProvenceLa Stèle Blanc 2006 $22MasdelaDame’swinesarecertifiedorganic(agriculture biologique).Thisblendof80%Rolle(Vermentino)and20%Clairetteisabrightgolden-yellow,withnotesoflemoncurd,peachnectar,lily,lavender,cinnamon,andalmondbiscotti(cantucci).Medium-bodied,bold,fresh,anddry,itfeaturesbanana,starfruit,guava,andlimeflavors;pricklyacidity;andalong,peach-mineralfinish.
outstanding recent releases
Domaine de la Bégude cellar (top) and vineyard (middle top) in Le Camp du Castellet.
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Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2008 $30Brightorange-pink,withintriguingaromasofpricklypear,tar-ragon,sage,basil,redlicorice,lemon,guava,starfruit,chalk,andslate.Onthepalate,it’sbig-bonedandrichlyflavored;thefruit-herb-mineraltrioshownonthenoseisjoinedbynotesoftarandseaspray.Zestyaciditydefinesthefinish.
Château Peyrassol Côtes de Provence 2008 $14Brightyellow-pink,withalightnoseofstrawberry,candiedvio-lets,wildflowers,sour-applecandy,andpinkgrapefruit.Asoft,luscioustextureisbalancedbyunderlyingacidityandfine,pithyfruittannins.Verydelicateandelegant.
Château Riotor Côtes de Provence 2008 $14Finishedwithasleek,silverscrewcap,thisbright-copper-pinkwinedeliversnotesofstrawberry,lime,watermelon,thyme,androsemary.Althoughthetextureisfleshy,thejuicyacidsaddbalance,andthefinishislonganddry.
Château Routas Coteaux Varois Rouvière 2008 $14Paleyellow-pink,witharomasofstrawberry,chalk,lemon,nectarine,applepeel,orangezest,andhay.Onthepalate,thiswineisbonedry,withrefreshinglight-raspberryfruitandracy,mouthwateringacidity.Bringonthegarlic.
Domaine de la Bégude Bandol 2008 $30Brightyellow-pink,withenticingaromasofstrawberry,pome-granate,grapefruit,watermelon,key-limepie,Meyerlemon,jasmine,honeysuckle,nutmeg,andgreentea.Thetextureisfineandsilky,caressingthepalatelikeatopMeursault.Thiswineisvibrantlyflavoredandtangy,withnotesofberry,watermelon,kumquat,andstarfruit.Complete,complex,andbalanced,withfreshunderlyingacidity,ithasthatrarecombi-nationofdepthandgrace.
Domaine de Triennes Vin de Pays du Var 2008 $16Thisbeautiful,copper-pinkpiratecapturesthesenseswithitslivelynotesofrosepetal,peach,strawberry,wildflowers,sage,andbrush.Roundandsilky,itfinisheswithalovely,chalkygrip.
Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol 2008 $32Palecopper-pinkandmoderatelyviscous.Thenosefeaturesnotesofstraw,rosewater,strawberry,andpeach.ThepalateisbonedryandAlpinefresh,withbrisk,lemonyacidity;aveinofchalkyminerality;andalonglemon-berry-rosefinish.
Domaine Tempier Bandol 2008 $28Vibrantsalmon-pink,witharomasofsourcherry,strawberry,watermelon,lemon,andfreshlygroundandwholeblackpepper-corns.Onthepalate,thisfull-bodiedroséoffersbrightwater-melon,strawberry,apricot,andlemonnotes;it’smouth-pucker-ingandbig-boned,withtartacidsandgrippingfruittannins.
outstanding recent releases
Domaine du Gros’Noré winery (top) and vineyard (middle top) in La Cadière d’Azur.
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Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Château de Selle 2007 $42Bright,tawnyyellow-pink,witharomasofdriedfruits,goldenraisin,Boscpear,honey,sulfur,andtar,thisroséissoftandthickinthemiddle,offeringsubtlefruit,softcitrus,honey,andherbnotes.Tartacidskickintoprovidestructureandbal-ance,andthefinishisraspberry-imbued.Thisistheultimate“wearenottryingtoimpressyou”wine—takeitorleaveit.
Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Clos Mireille 2007 $42Brightyellow-peach,withintensearomasofraspberry,straw-berry,pinkrose,driedherbs,hay,andsand.Thewineismedi-um-bodied,offeringnotesofstrawberry,cherry,watermelon,herbs,andtarcarriedbyjuicy,refreshingacidity.
Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Les Domaniers 2008 $19ThisisOtt’svalue-pricedrosé,andalovelywineforthemoney.itisgolden-salmonincolor,withanenticingnoseofstrawber-ryjam,peach,redlicorice,banana,seasalt,mint,andchalk.Themedium-bodiedpalateishighlightedbyprettyberryandpeachnotesandgentlycleansingacidity.
Jean-Luc Colombo Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Cape Bleue 2008 $1240%Syrah,40%Mourvèdre,20%Counoise.Colombo’sroséisbrightcopper-pink,featuringin-your-facearomasofJuicyFruitgum,banana,sour-applecandy,watermelon,pinkrose,andorangemarmalade.Medium-bodied,withaheavyhitofboldfruit—sourcherryandlemondrop—ithasalong,juicyfinish.
Mas de la Dame Les Baux-de-Provence Rosé du Mas 2008 $14Thisblendof50%Grenache,30%Syrah,and20%Cinsaultisapalepink,butshowsripe,up-frontnotesofwatermelon,cantaloupe,strawberry,lemon,andchalk.Cleanandfresh,withjuicyacidity,ithasbrightwatermelonflavorsbalancedbyabitter-lemonedge.
Xavier Flouret Côtes de Provence Nationale 7 2008 $2245%Grenache,40%Cinsault,15%Tibouren.Abright,paleyellow-pink,thiswineoffersvividnotesofstrawberry,lemon,RedDeliciousapple,Asianpear,pomegranate,nectarine,haybale,andseashell.it’smedium-bodiedandsilky,withdeca-dent,brightfruitatitsvelvetycenter,althoughtangynotesoflemonandgrapefruitclamorforattentiononthefinish.
outstanding recent releases
Château de PibarnonComte de Saint Victor83740 La Cadière d’Azur+33-494-901273www.pibarnon.comImporter: Michael Skurnik Wineswww.skurnikwines.com
Château PeyrassolRN 783340 Flassans-sur-Issole+33-494-697102www.peyrassol.comImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com
Château Pradeaux676, chemin des Pradeaux83270 Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer+33-494-321021www.chateau-pradeaux.comImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com
Château RiotorBP 1084231 Châteauneuf-du-Pape+33-490-837275www.chateauriotor.comImporter: Kobrand Corporationwww.kobrand.com
Château RoutasRoute de Barjols83149 Bras+33-498-052580www.chateauroutas.com
Château Simone13590 Meyreuil+33-442-669258www.chateau-simone.frImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com
Domaine de la BégudeRoute des Garrigues83330 Le Camp du Castellet+33-442-089234www.domainedelabegude.frImporter: Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd.www.kysela.com
Domaine de RégusseRoute de la Bastide des Jourdans04860 Pierrevert+33-492-723044www.domaine-de-regusse.comImporter: Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd.www.kysela.com
Domaine de TriennesRN 56083860 Nans-les-Pins+33-494-789146www.triennes.comImporter: The Sorting Tablewww.thesortingtable.com
Domaine des Terres Blanches79100 Oironterres-blanches.frImporter: Beaune Importswww.beauneimports.com
Domaine du Bagnol12, avenue de Provence13260 Cassis+33-442-017805Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com
Domaine du Gros’Noré675, chemin de l’Argile83740 La Cadière d’Azur+33-494-900850www.gros-nore.comImporter: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchantwww.kermitlynch.com
Domaine TempierLe Plan du Castellet83330 Castellet+33-494-987021www.domainetempier.comImporter: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchantwww.kermitlynch.com
key producers
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Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2005 $59Richruby-garnetintheglass,withnotesofplum,tar,pancetta,andstewedtomato,thewineissoft,round,andearthyatfirst,butthenslightlygrippingfruittanninsandfreshaciditykickin.ThisBandolisshowingitsmaturity.
Château Pradeaux Bandol 2003 $30Bright,lightlysaturatedruby-garnet,withagoodone-fourth-inchrimvariationconfirmingitsage.Thecomplexnosefeaturesaromasoffreshlypolishedwood,mocha,vanilla,raisin,fig,cherrycobbler,strawberryandraspberryjam,stewedtomatoes,tar,sage,andmenthol.Thepalateismedium-bodied,wellstruc-tured,andslightlygrippy,withripeberryfruit,mildoaktan-nins,andlingeringflavorsofcedar,tar,lavender,andpeach.
Château Routas Syrah Vin de Pays du Var Cyrano 2005 $16Despiteitsage,thiswineisvividlycolored,sendinguparomasofblacktea,orangezest,raspberry,cherry,tar,mineral,andsmoke.Thepalatefeaturesbrightboysenberryandfignotesandgentlygrippingfruitandoaktannins.Overall,thewineiswellstructuredandfairlydelicate,withalongfinish.
Domaine de la Bégude Bandol 2005 $39Deep,vibrantcrimson-rubyincolor,withforthrightaromasofcassis,plum,boysenberry,bramble,crushedleaves,bakingspice,cedar,andvanilla,thisBandolisbeautifullybalancedandelegant.Notesofdarkberries,sourcherry,driedleaves,driedmushrooms,andcedaremergeonthepalate.Onthefin-ish,theMourvèdrekicksintogearwithgrippytannins,butthejuicyaciditylendsbalance.
Domaine de Régusse Pinot Noir Vin de Pays des Alpes-de-Haute-Provence 2007 $12Thislight-rubyredhassexynotesofcherry,raspberry,straw-berry,rosewater,bramble,andbrush.it’sdelicateandsilky,thoughwithfarbrighter,jammierfruitthanisfoundinitscounterpartsupinBurgundy.Lovelymineralbacknotesroundoutthewine,andrefreshingacidsbringeverythingintobal-ance.Excellentvalue.
Domaine des Terres Blanches Les Baux-de-Provence 2005 $20Bright,vividrubywithapinkmeniscus,thiswinedisplaysnotesofrosepetal,blackcherry,wildstrawberry,cassis,cedar,graphite,andredsoil.itismedium-bodiedandwellstructured,withpithyfruittannins,softoaktannins,andbrightacidity.AquintessentiallyMediterraneanwine,ithasmorebitethanaBordeaux,butismoreelegantandabitlighterthanaBandol.Becauseitisstillquiteyoung,decantingisrecommended.
outstanding recent releases
key producers Domaines OttChâteau de Selle à TaradeauRD 7383460 Taradeau+33-494-475757Clos Mireille à La Londe-les-MauresRoute de Brégançon83250 La Londe-les-Maures+33-494-015350www.domaines-ott.comImporter: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Inc.www.mmdusa.net
Jean-Luc ColomboPied de la Vigne07130 Cornas+33-475-403609Importer: Palm Bay Internationalwww.palmbay.com
Mas de la DameCD 513520 Les Baux-de-Provence+33-490-543224www.masdeladame.comImporter: Palm Bay Internationalwww.palmbay.com
Xavier FlouretImporter: Cognac Onewww.cognac-one.com
Catherine Fallis, aka “Grape Goddess,” is the fi rst woman in the world to have earned both the Master Sommelier diploma from the Inter-national Court of Master Sommeliers and the Advanced Certifi ed Wine Professional diploma from the Culinary Insti-tute of America. She is founder and president of Planet Grape LLC (www.planetgrape.com), a wine consulting fi rm provid-ing education, content, sommelier services, and innovative custom cellar systems from Revel Cel-lars for restaurants, wine bars, retail locations, and personal collections.
Domaines Ott Clos Mireille cellar (top).
September 200952
Tourtine, Migoua, and Cabassou—which theybottle individually to great acclaim. These aretheunofficialgrandscrusofProvence.
Commercial wines have also improved,thoughtheywouldprobablysell justaswell inanycase to the thirstymasses.“ifirstcametoProvence in 1985, and i have been back therejustabouteveryyearsince,”saysKysela.“Whatihavenoticedistheincreaseinqualityacrosstheboard.Thewinemakershavemoretrainingandfocusonuniqueterroirs.Fortunately,Provenceisstilloneregionoftheworldwherethewineshavenotyetbeen‘internationalized’toanygreatdegree.”
While sommeliers have virtually unlim-itedoptionsthesedayswhenitcomestorosés,Provenceisamustonanylist,especiallyiftheestablishment serves Provençal-inspired cui-sine. Thewhites, especially those fromCassisandPalette,areunique:floral, fresh,andmin-eral-laden.AccordingtoKysela,CassisBlancistypicallypairedwithbouillabaisse,whileCôtesdeProvencewhitesarebestwithgrilledmeatsandvegetables,oftenpreparedwithlocalherbs.KyselarecommendsBandolrougewithSisteronlamb and Bandol roséwith the popular black-olivetapenadeormonkfish-liverpurée.
French wine importer and merchant Ker-mitLynch,anotedproponentofterroirandsub-tlety, adds, “i think regionallywheni thinkofwine-and-foodcombinations,becausethewineandcuisineofanyregiongrewuptogetherandmakemagic together. i love the smell of Pro-vençalherbslikethymethatyoucanfindinthewines,andthereis,asinsomeitalianwines,aslightbitternessthatmakesthemsogoodwithtomato-based dishes and garlicky concoctions.Thetanninoftheredsisrightwithredmeats,therosésperfectwithfishandpork.AgoodPro-vençalredlikeBandolisgoodyoung,old,andinbetween.”
September 2009
deProvencewhitesarebestwithgrilledmeatsandvegetables,oftenpreparedwithlocalherbs.KyselarecommendsBandollamb and Bandol roséwith the popular black-olivetapenadeormonkfish-liverpurée.
French wine importer and merchant Ker-mitLynch,anotedproponentofterroirandsub-tlety, adds, “i think regionallywheni thinkofwine-and-foodcombinations,becausethewineandcuisineofanyregiongrewuptogetherandmakemagic together. i love the smell of Pro-vençalherbslikethymethatyoucanfindinthewines,andthereis,asinsomeitalianwines,aslightbitternessthatmakesthemsogoodwithtomato-based dishes and garlicky concoctions.Thetanninoftheredsisrightwithredmeats,therosésperfectwithfishandpork.AgoodPro-vençalredlikeBandolisgoodyoung,old,andinbetween.”
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Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol 2006 $36Thisslightlyhazy,well-saturatedruby-redwineofferscomplexnotesofwildstrawberry,plumcompote,cherrycobbler,blacklicorice,anise,spearmint,tarragon,lavender,vanilla,androastedcoffeebeans.itisfull,round,deeplyfruity,andfairlyoaky,bal-ancedbylivelyacidsandseamlesslyintegratedtannins.
Domaine Tempier Bandol 2006 $38Slightyhazyandamoderatelysaturatedruby-red,thiswineoffersaromasofblackcherry,raspberry,mulberry,roses,andblackandgreenpeppercorns.itismoderatelyfull-bodied,withpithyfruittannins,darkfruit,andpepperyspice.AlthoughpastreleaseshavereallyshowntheirMourvèdremeatiness,thisver-siononlyhintsatthat,softenedbylayersofcompoteandblackpepper.Despiteitsslightgripandspiciness,it’soneofthemoreelegantbottlingsihavetastedfromTempier.Pricesareestimatedretail.
outstanding recent releases
Château de Pibarnon estate (top left) and vineyards (top right, above) in La Cadière d’Azur.