008 www.boards.co.uk

BBaacckk iinn DDeecceemmbbeerr 22000022 wwee ddeessppaattcchheedd GGaarryy CCrroosssslleeyy ttoo JJeerriiccooaaccooaarraa,, BBrraazziill,, ttoo rreeppoorrtt oonn

oonnee ooff tthhee hhootttteesstt nneeww hhoott ssppoottss ttoo hhiitt tthhee sscceennee ssiinnccee ffiirree wwaass iinnvveenntteedd.. SSiinnccee tthheenn tthhee ppllaaccee

hhaass bbeeccoommee eexxttrreemmeellyy ppooppuullaarr,, aanndd ppoooorr GGaarryy hhaass bbeeeenn ssuuffffeerriinngg sslleeeepplleessss nniigghhttss wwoorrrryyiinngg

aabboouutt wwhheetthheerr hhiiss tteelllliinngg tthhee wwoorrlldd hhooww ggoooodd iitt iiss hhaass bbeeeenn ddiirreeccttllyy rreessppoonnssiibbllee ffoorr iittss rruuiinnaattiioonn..

TThheerree wwaass oonnllyy oonnee tthhiinngg ffoorr iitt......

Jeri revisitedA

h, the twists and turns of life, eh? Nomatter what your personal belief system,it’s hard to deny that there are strange

forces at work in our universe. If you’d asked mefour years ago what the chances were of beingsent off to a wind and wave-blessed equatorialElysium on Brazil’s north-eastern coast, I’d havesaid around 10,000 to one against. The chances ofgetting there twice? In the millions. But thanks to abizarre incident involving my long-suffering editor,a Steinway baby grand piano and a fourth-storywindow, that’s exactly what happened.

Naturally, I popped into casualty to see howhe was doing.

“Mmph gelph pfhrd shamf bstd”, hespluttered through an imbroglio of tubing. I tookthis to mean: “I appear to have been shafted bya Steinway. You’ll have to go to Brazil in myplace. Get back out there and see what’s changedsince your last visit.” Or words to that effect...

That’s not the sort of invitation you turn down,and I must admit I was keen to discover exactlywhat had been going on since I last visitedJericoacoara back in December 2002. It’s certainly

become a hugely popular location since I spilledthe beans about how good it was in BOARDS April2003, which then led to the BOARDS Test Teamadopting the place as their small-board testinglocation for the following two seasons and awhole heap more coverage. It’s always a concernthat when you publicise paradise it can turn fromperfection to purgatory, or worse, Torremolinos –and I must admit I was worried about what I’d find.Indeed, I’d been experiencing disturbing dreamsin which the beautiful beach had been cruellyscarred with high-rise hotels, casting blackshadows over the village and wiping out the wind.Hideous themed pubs had sprouted like acne on ateenager’s face, discharging deafening music andloud-mouthed lager louts, and the previouslypristine dunes had been destroyed by buggiesand Jeremy Clarkson’s Range Rover. Andsomehow it was all my fault...

So, what’s changed?Fortunately, my fears were unfounded. As thelocal Rubens Barichello bounced the 4x4 overJeri’s streets of sand as we drove back into the

village for the first time, I was struck by how littlehad changed. There are for sure a few morerestaurants and shops, a couple more cyber-cafés and, if memory served, a couple of newdonkeys, but essentially the village looked – andmost importantly, felt – exactly the same.

The beach, too, looked no different. Not a palmout of place, and no detectable signs ofdevelopment. Fishermen were still tending to theirjangada boats, the enigmatic dude with aberimbau bow and a straw hat was still standing atthe water’s edge, silhouetted against that big,bright Brazilian sky, local kids were still foolingaround with a football, getting in shape to kick usout of the 2014 World Cup, Jem Hall was still sittingoutside the same bar we’d left him at back inNovember ’04, cows and donkeys still moseyed onby, the wind was still blowing, exfoliating myankles with fine particles of sand, and out on thewater I could see those familiar flashes of colourflaka-flicking away as windsurfing art was beingpractised in the small but ever-present waves.Hmmm... Look like 4.7s, too.

I breathed a small sigh of relief...

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:01 Page 8

www.boards.co.uk 009

BRAZIL

�

So nothing’s changed then?Well no. And yes. Let me put it like this. For aplace that hasn’t changed much there have beena lot of changes. Thankfully, as far as wewindsurfers are concerned, it’s more viva ladifference than change for change’s sake.

The big news is the brilliant new Club Ventoswindsurfing centre, which has been moved a fairway from its original location and is nowsituated bang on the beach right next to theprime sailing spot. Indeed, any closer and itwould be in it.

Covering 3,000m2, the centre is by no meanssmall, so the fact that I didn’t spot it from adistance is testimony not to my failing eyesightbut to the care taken to ensure it was constructedcompletely in harmony with the environment (notree was cut down in the process).

This isn’t your average windsurfing centre. Whatwas started back in 1997 as a dream and a simplesurf-shack by a small ball of energy called FabioNobre, has grown and evolved into somethingquite special. I was impressed by the amount ofthought that has been put into the details – thesmall but significant things that all add up to makea big difference. For instance, after only two days Inoticed that the attentive staff knew all the guestsby name, which helps to create a really friendlyatmosphere. This is bolstered by the decision toput quality before quantity by not increasing thenumber of boards and sails, thereby limiting thenumber of guests and keeping everything cosyand personal. Another nice touch is the way thefood – which is excellent, by the way – is served.Instead of charging per meal, you pay by weight.Fantastic. When you’re windsurfing all day (andyou will be), the last thing you want to be doing isbolting down a big bucket of grub at lunchtime andgetting stomach cramps on the water. This way,you can eat as little and as often as you likethroughout the day, keeping those energy levelstopped up without paying a fortune.

In addition to the restaurant and the kit (allnew-season Neil Pryde, JP, and Starboard) ClubVentos also has a shop, and offers lessons for allability levels. Planned additions for this seasoninclude a cyber-café, massage therapy and‘Dare2Fly Kite Centre’. (But don’t worry folks –kitesurfers have their own part of the beach, sothey don’t get in the way of windsurfers.)

As an all-in-one deal, this centre ticks all theboxes. Good location? Check. Good conditions?Check. Wind every day? Check. Close to thewater? Very. Good kit? Good staff? Check. Goodfood? Check. Full range of services? Check. Greatviews? Oh yes. And so it goes on. But more thanthat, the place is about people. At some pointduring the average day, just about everyonewho’s out on the water will drop into ClubVentos, using it like a windsurfing communitycentre to meet up with friends, chat, eat, watchthe action, and generally socialise.

As Fabio himself said, when I eventuallymanaged to catch up with him as he seeminglyteleported from one place to the next: “When Ibuilt Club Ventos I didn’t want it to be justanother windsurfing centre, but an environmentwhere people are welcome to spend their days,and where they feel looked after.”

Job done, I’d say.

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:01 Page 9

010 www.boards.co.uk

Anything else?Compared to 2002, I couldn’t help noticing thatthe quality of accommodation has been notchedup a few levels, and at both ends of the pricescale there’s now far more choice for thediscerning windsurfer than before.

Although nowhere in Jeri is very far from thesea, if you can, do try and get yourself bookedinto the splendid new Jeriba Pousada, which isright next to Club Ventos and just a lazy thoughtfrom the beach. Stay here, and apart from a viewto die for the total distance you’ll travel twixtroom and ripsville is so close to zero that it’s notworth thinking about. Windsurfing life justdoesn’t get any easier.

It’s pretty comfy, too. There’s a small pool andspa-bath, beach-bar, and although my roomlacked the jacuzzi the jammy Dutch guys next tome had, all rooms have excellent facilities,including superb showers, satellite TV, fridge, andmost importantly, air-conditioning that actuallyworks – essential if, like mine, your roommate isan ascended master of nocturnal eruction.

Sorry to bang on about this, but it is hard todescribe in words the deep joy experiencedwhen you come across an AC unit that performsso well. This may be a bugbear of mine, butair-conditioners in far-flung locations so oftencreate the noise of an industrial megalopolis inan ultimately futile struggle to keep the roomslightly below the temperature of the Earth’score, leaving you to choose between staringbug-eyed at the ceiling all night (ON) or trying tosleep in a pool of your own sweat (OFF).

As I said earlier, it’s the little details that count...

Digging a little deeper...Aside from these surface changes, what wasreally interesting was the chance to observe theimpact that windsurfing tourism has had on thisonce simple fishing village and its 1,500inhabitants. Certainly, things have come a longway since the visibly vibrating form of FabioNobre single-handedly introduced Jericoacoarato the world by knocking on the doors of touroperators and magazines all around the world,convincing them through sheer energy andpassion that it is the place to be. And, while therewill always be those that will lament the passingof the quieter, quainter days, when Jeri wasunknown to all but the privileged few and adonkey called Robby Naish pulled a kit-laden cartdown to the water’s edge, there’s no doubt thatmost people view the changes in positive light.

This is down to three main factors –economic, environmental and cultural – whichall contribute to the symbiotic relationship thatnow exists between windsurfing and the village.

The arrival of more windsurfers has ensured asteady flow of tourists during a season when Jeriwas generally empty, which has created moreemployment, boosted the local economy andraised the standard of living. Moreover, becauseof Jeri’s remote location, the revenue generatedfrom windsurfing tourism stays in the village.

Environmentally, windsurfing is low impact,which works very well with the area’s status as aprotected national park.

And culturally, the villagers can benefit frombeing able to access a much more cosmopolitancross-section of society. While I was there I

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:01 Page 10

www.boards.co.uk 011

BRAZIL

bumped into more nationalities than I havespace to list, which exposes the locals to a rangeof languages and knowledge that isn’t availableto most Brazilians. This, of course, is particularlygood for the kids...

The Jeri kidsThere’s no question that the greatest influence ofwindsurfing in Jeri has been on the children.Apart from exposure to a wider cultural milieu, ithas provided them with opportunities that kidsfrom other fishing villages can only dream about.

As a growth medium, Jeri is a pretty powerfulfertiliser. Plant a kid – any kid – in anenvironment that’s super-saturated in the sportin a place where the world’s best windsurferscome to train and where you can sail every day,and you can watch them grow before your veryeyes. I was stunned by the talent these kidshave, and it wouldn’t surprise me if we see aJericoacoara-born champion in the near future.

Of course, they can’t do it on their own. Enterstage left, right and centre, our old friend Fabioonce more: “By recognising the possibility toprovide opportunity for the children of Jeri aswell as the desire to give something more to thecommunity, we developed the idea of the ClubVentos Windsurfing Foundation,” Fabio told me,fizzing with enthusiasm. “The Foundation will bemade possible by sponsorship and donationsfrom manufacturers, private parties, and ClubVentos. Its goal is to improve the futuredevelopment and success of Jeri boys and girlsby getting them involved in windsurfing as wellas encouraging them to attend school and excel.How? By getting kids involved in an after-schoolprogram where they can learn and practisewindsurfing if they achieve a certain level ofschool grades and attendance. Club Ventos willalso sponsor foreign language lessons. Olderand more experienced children will beencouraged to contribute by teaching theyounger and/or more inexperienced kids.”

That all sounds great, but...OK, the $64k question – what about the crowds?Surely now the place is so popular it’s rammedto the rafters and everyone’s playing sardines inthe swell, I hear you say.

Well, from my own experience, comparingDecember 2002 to December 2005, the numberson the water were honestly no higher (check outthe aerial pic). The village itself, if anything, wasactually a bit quieter. Talking to members of the TestTeam who have been there three Novembers in arow, it does seem that this has very much becomepeak time, and it has indeed become busier then,particularly on the point. Give windsurfers anentire coastline to play on and they will allcongregate, like flies around a putrefyingpaw-paw, in one place. Yep, where the waves are.Then they will bitch like hell about the crowds.

But the great thing about this place is thatthere is plenty of room to stretch out. Around 15miles of room, in fact. Jeri’s beach seems to goon forever, so it’s easy to make your escape. Youcan either sail upwind past the point to the nextbeach, where conditions are more cross-onshorebut usually free of sailors, or head downwindand find your own private patch to play in.

The increasing popularity of freestyle has madeit a slightly more hectic place to be, as the smallwaves are so perfect for doing tricks off, and nowthere are people busting out moves every whichway, which means you definitely have to keep yourwits about you at the busiest times. But actually,this supposed season peak at November is a bit ofan odd one anyway – in real terms much more todo with the fact that there aren’t that many otherplaces in the world which are really good inNovember, rather than it being the very best timeto visit Jeri. Their season actually stretches frommid-summer right through to December orJanuary, and while the winds may be at their verystrongest in early November – does it really matterto you that it’s 35 knots rather than 25-30? Yes, thisplace gets seriously windy at peak season!

It can’t all be good, surely?Alas, no, it can’t. Jericoacoara may remain anisolated, picture-perfect paradise, buttechnology needs no roads to advance, andthere was one thing that had changed since mylast visit that I didn’t like.

My mobile phone worked. Thankfully, my editor was in no position to

make any calls. And besides, I’ve learnt how touse the off button...

The really bad thing...Is having to leave.

As my stay in Jeri moved inevitably towardsits end and I reluctantly prepared to head back tothe frozen reality of brumal Britain, I wasnevertheless suffused by a warm glow. Thisrapidly became a red-hot glow, and just before itapproached incandescence I mused upon thefolly of sunbathing under the equatorial sunafter forgetting to apply the SP40. But thediscomfort didn’t dampen a sense of deepsatisfaction that came from the realisation that,although Jeri has changed, and, as more andmore people learn of its delights, will continueto do so, it isn’t going to be destroyed – like somany places – by overdevelopment. Not whilethe current environmental laws and buildingrestrictions are in place, anyway.

On my last evening, as I settled down on alounger to soak up the sunset, sip an ice-coldcaipirinha out of a coconut husk and watchthe longboarders lap up the last of the day’swaves, it struck me that the real reason thatJeri is such a jewel isn’t just down to theconsistent conditions, or the remote location,or the stunning scenery. It’s much moresimple than that. It’s because people careabout the place. Jericoacoara is in goodhands, and under that stewardship willalways retain its uniqueness, its quirkycharms, and its character.

Long may it remain so... �

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:02 Page 11

012 www.boards.co.uk

Location: Jericoacoara is on Brazil’s north-eastcoast, in the state of Ceara, two degrees south ofthe equator and 180 miles from Fortaleza. It wasand still is a fishing village, which was‘discovered’ by backpackers in the late 1980s.There has been a slow and controlleddevelopment of tourism since then, as Jeri is aNational Park protected by the local natureauthority, which enforces strict rules. The 130square-miles around the village is anEnvironmental Protection Area, and under thisprotective umbrella buildings are limited to thevillage area (just 1 square-kilometre) andhunting, road building and causing pollution arebig no-nos. You need government permission topick a flower...

How to say it: “Jeri-kwah-kwahra”

Getting there: TAP Air Portugal has regularflights from Gatwick to Fortaleza via Lisbon. Thetransfer at Lisbon is a breeze, and your baggagestays on the plane. You’re looking at around ninehours flying time (two to Lisbon and seven toFortaleza), so allow a whole day for travelling.Transfer from Fortaleza to Jeri takes around fourhours by 4x4 (the last 15-miles to Jeri are acrossFrank Herbert Dune terrain), or spoil yourselfand take in superb views of the coastline byhelicopter (one hour). If you can stretch to it thisis the way to travel...

Booking: Unless you’re the adventurous typewho likes living life on the edge, to have all yourflight, transfers, accommodation and kit needscatered for, call Jeri specialists Sportif on 01273844919 / www.sportif-uk.com / info@sportif-uk.com

Conditions: Err... In a word, windy. Every day.If you’re the average weekend windsurfer, youwill sail more in two weeks here than a wholeyear in the UK.

There’s no need to look at the forecast – it’slike clockwork. Trade winds travel east to westfrom the shores of Africa, and when they hit Jerithey’re accelerated and strengthened by a hill(or serrote) just upwind from the town. If you’renot a total beginner, you’ll really enjoy Jeri, andcan’t fail to improve your sailing in thechallenging, yet non-threatening and consistentconditions. I said this last time, and nothing’schanged – Jeri has to be one of the best placesto learn wavesailing. Although it does get bigwaves on rare occasions, most of the timethey’re chest high or smaller (but long), andgreat fun. When you wipe-out you’re not goingto get brained by a boulder either, as the bottomis soft sand. If you don’t fancy playing in thewaves, head downwind and find your own patch– the beach stretches for some 15-miles. Plentyof people do learn to windsurf here, butbeginners normally choose the morning periodwhen the wind is lighter. If you’re of earlyintermediate standard then avoid November, asit’s probably going to be too windy for you!

For those into flat-water blasting with bigger

kit, there’s a huge inland freshwater lake a20-minute buggy ride away. Known as ‘ParadiseLake’, it’s nine miles long with gently slopingbanks, crystal clear waters – and a couple of barsfor essential thirst-quenching.

When to go: The most consistent conditionsoccur from July until the end of December, whenyou get solid, dependable wind every single day.It’s rarely less than 20 knots, with the strengthpeaking in around November, occasionally at 40+knots. The best waves are from October to January.

On the web:Typing ‘Jericoacoara’ into Googlewill return over 100,000 pages, so there’s plentyof info out there. To have a look at the conditionsand learn a bit more about Club Ventos, check outwww.clubventos.com (which may well have awebcam set up by the time this is printed...)

Eating out: There’s no shortage of greatrestaurants, offering everything from sushi tosteaks and more traditional local fare, andusually to a very high standard.

Nightlife: Hit the bars much before midnightand you could be forgiven for thinkingeveryone’s light-weighted out and gone to bed.You’d be partially right, too. After frazzling yourevery fibre to quivering exhaustion on the water,the routine here is to take a nap after dinner, setthe alarm to midnight, then hit the town. Theaction shifts from bar to bar until sunrise, withthe liveliest being in Main Street, which turnsinto cocktail alley as Jeri’s band of independentmixers and shakers vie for your custom. Around70p buys you the compulsory caipirinha or acool chocolaty capeta, or you could go crazywith a coco loco. One thing is certain – all willcontain enough of the primary ingredient to getyou rocking until sunrise. Where others measurespirits in fingers, here they measure in fists. Thegreat thing is that the wind only picks up after11am, so there’s time to sleep in. Lovely...

Other things to do: Take your pick fromsandboarding, kitesurfing, sailing, scuba diving,paragliding, or horse riding. Limber up thosewindsurfing muscles with some yoga lessons, or

Jeri fax

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:02 Page 12

www.boards.co.uk 013

Thanks go to that miracle of organisational skill, and no slouch on a board either, Tove Rees, for making things happen and generally being Mum, to FabioNobre for remaining still long enough for the human eye to register his presence now and then, and Messrs Chappel & Phelps of The Strand, London, forthe loan of a second-hand Steinway baby grand piano, now slightly damaged...

check out the capoeira fighters practising theirart to the beat of bongos and berimbau bows.Go for a walk and explore. One of the mostpopular activities on offer is GPS hiking acrossthe desert terrain. The scenery is incredible, andif there’s a full moon while you’re there you canwatch the sun set as the moon rises. Magical.

Next to these options, it has to be said that oneof the best things to do in Jericoacoara is sweetsod-all. Leave the maelstrom of activity to others,grab a hammock under the shade of a palm tree,soak up the simple, stress-free life with a bookand a beer and let time just slip slowly by...

Currency: Brazilian Reals. You get a better rateif you change your currency in Brazil. The easiestway is to use an ATM or bureau de change atFortaleza Airport or in the city. There are nobanks or ATMs in Jeri, but there are a few shopsthat will exchange Euros or US Dollars, andmost shops / restaurants now accept creditcards. Progress, huh?

Weather: Equatorial. Only the days of themonth change. Air temperature is 28-35°C. Watertemperature is 27°C year-round.

Language: Portuguese

Equipment:The kit at Club Ventos is top notch,but be aware that their boards are fitted with‘Deviators’, which aren’t to everyone’s liking.(For more on this subject, go to:www.boards.co.uk/articles/index.asp?ID_A=177&article_type=50)

If you prefer to take your own equipmentSportif can make the necessary arrangements.

Other things you’ll needA harness.

Waterproof high SPF sunblock – think factor 40.

A small torch for those starlit staggers back fromthe bars – street lighting is courtesy of the cosmos.

A camera and plenty of memory cards or film –

the light here is a photographer’s dream.

Fingerless gloves or some gaffer tape. Trust me,you’ll be doing so much sailing that the Brazilianbathwater will quickly soften your calluses, andaround-about day 3 or 4 you’ll appreciate someextra protection until your hands acclimatise.

A phrase book (not much English is spoken byvillagers, and they really appreciate any effortsto speak Portuguese, no matter how garbled!)

Mosquito repellent (as a precaution. The windseems to keep them away, and I didn’t comeacross one while I was there...)

Stuff you won’t needA watch. There is no time there, as everythingoperates to ‘Brazilian time’, which is moreflexible than a Ukrainian gymnast. The time thatdoes exist, when you can find it, is three hoursbehind GMT, so it’s useless to you anyway. Justthink ‘windsurfing time’, ‘food time’ and ‘partytime’ and you’ll be OK.

A wetsuit. It’s so warm you’ll want to sail nude.But shorts and a lycra rash-vest will savepotential embarrassment.

Clothes. Apart from a few essentials, you won’tneed them. Pack light and save weight. If you’re abloke stuff a few t-shirts, a few pairs of shorts andsome slaps into a plastic bag. That’s all you’ll use.

A hire car. Well, I suppose you could try, but withno roads you’re not going to get far. But if youcan drag yourself away from the windsurfingand want to explore, Club Ventos can organise4x4 excursions to places of interest.

And last, but not least...

How to make a caipirainha: Take onelime, cut into quarters, one tablespoon of sugar,one shot of cachaca, and half a cup of ice cubes.Put the lime and sugar in the bottom of a glass,and crush with a wooden spoon. Pour cachacaand ice over mashed-up stuff, stir and enjoy.Warning: This drink can cause some people to

clamber onto tabletops, shake their booty andoccasionally remove their clothes. Also maycause a wee bit of a headache the next morning,but it’s well worth it. Chin-chin. �

BRAZIL

220 Brazil (6) 16/3/06 10:02 Page 13