3D Printer Improvements

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www.tridimake.com/search?updated-min=2012-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&updated-max=2013-01-01T00:00:00%2B01:00&max-results=29[2013/10/2401:52:19]

From the community for the community, mostly via an Ultimaker

3D printer improvements

Check my main links.Many of my 3D designsare free, but I can also be contracted to design yours - jeremie francois at gmail

Thursday, December 27, 2012

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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 6:52 PM 9 comments:

Labels: consumables,general,review

Review: what materials can be 3D printed?

Every now and then I am being asked about it, so here is a post

on the many materials that can be 3D-printed at home.

It is not complete and will expand with time. It is no buyer's guide

either, nor a technical document. Read it as a short generic

survey of usable materials.

As for me and many others, I print mostly with PLA filament (see

below). Even though I have a set of other materials ( wood,

rubber, Nylonand so on), I did not test all the following myself,

mostly because each material requires its set of specific time-

consuming trials and errors to achieve good quality. Mastering all

of them would take me months, if not years!

Mixed woodand bioplastic (PLA)

What materials to 3D-print ?

+16 Recommend this on Google

Saturday, November 17, 2012

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Short belt tensioner for NEMA 17 stepper motors

The short belts that drive the main rods from the X and Y steppers must

always be kept tight. Otherwise the print quality really gets bad. Two

symptom that are easy to spot is non-round cylinders or "bouncing"

waves in the surface of the print.

The usual fix is to unscrew the 4 bolts, push the motor downwards with a

thumb and tighten the screws very hard while keeping the pressure...

I just could not stand this anymore, so I designed this thingand this

derivative(with an additional spring).

How to tension the Ultimaker short belts once for all?

Upside version of the tensioner

general reviewmechanicalreplacementbowden tubeissue feeder addonconsumablesheat hot endmotorsoftwareelectricweird

Keywords

Jeremie Francois

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If you know me and you cannot tell

exactly what my real job is, then you

probably found the right Jeremie.

Check zax.frfor some pointers.

I am self-employed and I help start-

ups, research centers, small

companies with their needs related

to computers and maths. If you

have a project and know what

"R&D" is, then you already caughtmy interest ;)

View my complete profile

About Me

17

Review: whatmaterials can be 3Dprinted?

Mixed wood and

bioplastic (PLA)What materials to3D-print ? Every now and then I ambeing asked about it, so here is apost on the ...

Review : settings forCura (3D printingfront end and slicer)

What are the mostimportant settings inCura ? I switched to

Cura as the unique front end toprint with my 3D printer. Thisexcellent s...

Homemade heatedbed

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Labels: issue,mechanical, motor, replacement


Sunday, November 11, 2012

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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:43 PM No comments:

Labels: addon,electric

Auto shutoff at end of print

I could not say it better than Daid: that headline

should grab attention.

Given the heat a 3D printer can generate, even when

idle, I would better kill it than let it powered

unattended, both for the planet, and to reduce the

slightest risk of fire. ;)

I stick here to the simplest and most straightforward

modification, partly because it is already supported by

the Marlin printer firmware.

By the way, the total cost is less than $10, and you

will just need a few solder points!

Kill y our 3D printer when it gets lazy !

Recommend this on Google

Sunday, November 4, 2012

Major wood FDM printing breakthrough !

This is incredible...

No need for a hot bed, no issue with massiveoverhangs, no stringingat all, no retraction, grinding

nor feeding issues, not even noise, smell nor

chemicals.

Free and easy sourcing of material, highly

portable, robust, self-powered and auto-adapting

printing system. And damn, they even master wood

gradientsand polygonal infill!

Now, on the downside: it comes without a user

manual and the system is incompatible with g-

code.And sometimes, it stings.

Extremely efficient wood 3D printing system

Why add a heatedbed ? Do you reallyneed an answer ?You just need one in

my humble opinion. After I mademine, I never had an obje...

How fine can anUltimaker print?

Ultimaker impressivequality at smallestlayer heights(40,50,75 microns) I

printed one famous treefrog on myUltimaker for a friend an...

What cannot be 3Dprinted? Time todebunk some myths!

General 3D

printing misinformation: review offacts and fiction! Each technologyhas some fundamental limitations,and 3D printing is no...

3D printing with asmaller nozzlediameter

For sure, a smallernozzle produces finer

details, but howtricky and troublesome it can be! Is itworth using a smaller nozzle on a ...

Which hobbed boltfor a filamentfeeder? Myhomemade one!

Driving the filamentwith hobbed /

knurled bolts My quite efficienthobbed bolt :) As all owners of 3Dprinters know, one item of utm...

Rollerstruder: afilament feeder /driver / extruder

The rollerstruder

filament drive systemon an UltimakerAlmost one year ago I got rid of theplywood Ultimaker filament drivemechanism...

3D printing withcheap Nylon trimmerline/string

Is filament quality soimportant after all? Iheard a while ago

that trimming line was one of themany materials that wasexperimented w...

Molding and castingwith a 3D printer

Printing a mold

and/or lost waxcasting Or how a 3Dprinter also opens

the way to semi-industrialhomemade objects beyond artisticsculpt...

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3/27

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Labels: consumables,review, weird

How nasty.


Thursday, November 1, 2012

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Labels: addon,general,replacement, review

Poll: what are the features you added to your stock Ultimaker ?

Here is an on-going poll motivated by this poston the Ultimaker google

forum. So please keep your comments for the forum!

I finally developed my own blogger poll system after failures with the

official and restrictive blogger polls.

What are your Ultimaker features?


Tuesday, October 30, 2012

How to write a Cura / Skeinforge plugin

Preliminary notes: some sites such as wiredlink to this

post, but you may like to read my less technical

review about temperature gradientsapplied to wood

first. Also, you could check this postif you just want to

try it.

First, do you really really want to wri te a Skeinforge plugin ?

materials can be3D printed?

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4/27

nter improvements


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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 10:06 AM No comments:

Labels: review,software

Now, read on if you are a programmer and want to

write your own plugin.

Indeed and contrary to what was being done so far, I did not want to manually insert the M104 temperatures

changes in the file sent to the printer, nor stay close to the ulticontroller. So I designed a plugin for the Cura /

Skeinforgesoftware pair.

Since that was not trivial, I document the procedure here.


Read more


Labels: consumables,issue

Wood filament becoming brittle after a while

When I started printing this morning with my wood filament(~2-3 week

old), all kinds of filament issues appeared, while I had almost none before.

I soon realized that the filament now is much more fragile than one week

ago.

First I though I had temperature and clogging issues, since I was testing

my plugin for simulating wood grain.

Update: seller answer, see end of post.

Wood filament now bri ttle, lost all its needed flexibility !


Shades of brown with wood filament, via varying temperature

Wood filament : changing temperature to get shades of brown
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5/27

nter improvements


Read more

Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:53 AM 6 comments:

Labels: consumables,heat, review

Wood filament, temperatures from 205 to 240, home made Skeinforge plugin

You probably want to check my first post about wood filamentif you did not already.

This sequel shows how varying temperatures impacts the color of the filament (as advertised).


Monday, October 29, 2012

Read more


Labels: bowden tube, hot end,mechanical, replacement

Robust bowden attachment with a blind rivet nut

Blind rivets nutsgive you a nut where you cannot reach the other side of the support.

Using a blind rivet nut to fix t he bowden tube once for all


How to clean the hotend and nozzle from the outside

Obviously you can disassemble the end, which is quite painful. It may also

damage some items and threads in the long term.

How to remove clogged/molten filament in a V2 head?
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6/27

nter improvements


Read more


Labels: bowden tube, heat,issue

Or you try whatever comes under you hand to remove the damn molten

stuff in and around the PEEK. Of course, start by removing your bowden

tube from the top quick coupling.


Thursday, October 25, 2012

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Labels: general,review, software

Review : settings for Cura (3D printing front end and slicer)

I switched to Curaas the unique front end to print with my 3D printer. This excellent software from Daid is

handling all the printing workfor you: displaying and scaling the objects, slicing them into layers, sending them to

the printer. It will not help you design or modifyyour object though.

This is called stringing (overfeeding, bad settings)

but it gives an usable part and an interesting piece of art in the end

What are the most important settings in Cura ?

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7/27

nter improvements


Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Review : printing with wood filament

Twisted Gear Lampby BenitoSanduchi, printed with Cura at 80mm/s, 0.2mm layers, Ultimaker

I boughtan early batch directly from a small producerin Germany. The full reference was LAYWOO-D3 LOT

F0142. It was not cheap, but it even got more expensive because everyone wanted some!

How it is made sounds trivial: just a mix of saw dust and plastic... But shaping this mix into a nice filament must

be tricky otherwise all the major producers would have produced it before and would be already be

selling kilometers of it...

There was no choice on the color yet.

What strikes me first is the surface, which is extremely rough compared to the other filament kinds. I think there is

still air in this filament... The overall stiffness is much lower than PLA, and you almost feel like you could bend it

without breaking it (even though it still breaks nicely with a sharp movement and pliers). Later, I had serious

issues with the filament for some time which lost all of its flexibility, but the issue is gonethanks to a air dryer.

Unusual deep marks left by my hobbed bolt (with a medium tension on the feeder)

The filament diameter is not very constant, but it is not worse than the two kind of PLA filament I had. From 3.0 to

3.1 mm, which is totally fine for me. I never had any grinding issue (during the first week of the filament). Some

Printing with wood filament : a short review

You may like to read also my post on wood shadesthough temperature changes.

What is a "wood filament" ?
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8/27

nter improvements


people however report serious issues and varying diameters (read on from this postfor example). Note that my

bowden tube is non standard,and its inner diameter is 4mm (OD 6mm). This proved to help a lot obviously.

On my first print, I thought I was under extruding a bit because I heard

bubbles popping out of the nozzle while printing, and the thin walls where

not that smooth. I still should try with higher feed ratejust to check how it

behaves and if the result is smoother.

However the macros for horizontal filling (picture on the right) seems to telit is pretty well tuned. See how the successive pass really fit each other

better than with PLA (my nozzle is 0.4mm). Well, it may not be better, but

since the material is rough, it really looks like it is.

The layers are harder to see than with PLA. At 0.1 height, it makes walls almost invisible. But much more

interestingly to me, the horizontal filling is much nicer than with PLA.

Also, the extruding temperature really seems unimportant, really not like

PLA. You just can set almost anything and it prints nicely, but you will get

different colors. For this, you need to insert specific g-code manually in the

generated file or use my forthcoming Cura/Skeinforge plugin.

Also, it looks instantly "dry" out of the nozzle. So much that I may

significantly reduce the minimum time between layers so it prints faster. It

really does not look like it is melting the previous layer top when the head

moves over (looks like wet cardboard more than plastic to me). However

the layers still stick nicely to each other; may be because of the texture

more than because they get welded ?

With surprise, I realized I could bend the following object where I could not

with PLA. Hence, I suspect that this material will not stand the same

amount of stress as with PLA nor ABS. It actually looks like something between cardboard and a springy MDF(it

gets a bit stiffer with time, not much imho). The printed object also really can be painted, much more than with

PLA or ABS.

It really gives a fine result, but not for all uses.

Printed at 222, 60mm/s, 100% fill. The resulting object is quite elastic.

Printing wood (how weird does it sound!)
https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/cCxddfudASohttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/review-settings-for-cura-3d-printing.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pna_iPaY21E/UIgU-kHU_eI/AAAAAAAAAOg/FsfW6ciQEOE/s1600/wood_222deg_1.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bwwkbnMTz60/UIgVAZz4-UI/AAAAAAAAAOo/tk2I_ZAuKQE/s1600/wood_222deg_2.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeGeReJczRE/UIgU6_nvm-I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/plUyJTHqOAI/s1600/wood3.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/review-settings-for-cura-3d-printing.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo


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nter improvements


Printing at 80mm/s, I could probably go much faster

A closeup HD video that show the nice "thick" paths

I would not leave the filament heating for long in the nozzle as it becomes really brown (and somehow crusty), so

there may be a risk to obstruct the nozzle (update: good prediction since it just occurredto someone!). So I purgethe head manually with regular PLA when a print is done (which now appear to me very "chemical/industrial"

compared to the wood filament).

I had no grinding at all when I checked carefully the feeder marks on the filament. May be that was thanks to my

bowden tubereplacement, or to my own feeder, or both. Actually, even though the filament surface is rough, since

the material is smooth I can move it in the bowden tube as easily as with PLA (if not more).

Also make sure to keep it in a sealed bag and somewhere it will not degrade as minedid :(

As a final note, I think this material really rocks for artists and designers, and even though I

am not an artist, I think I will always have a spool of wooden filament nearby :)

Check also how you can get different shades of brown(gradients) by varying the extruding

temperature during print.

And then, now, I want to go and invest a bit in making my own filament. Winter is coming

and I will have a pile of wood dust, together with a pile of broken PLA things. By the way, it

even smells like a biscuit :p

Tips and issues with wooden filament

Purging : from much heated wood to pink PLA. Disgusting but safer.

Conclusion
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fwMYm2iV8ws/UIgfhVfZTrI/AAAAAAAAAPE/ZRZyRt94gCE/s1600/IMG_1176.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJ


10/27

nter improvements



Labels: consumables,review

This could be my new businesscard, but the clean up is more difficult than with PLA


Read more


Labels: bowden tube, replacement

Replace the bowden tube

I ordered more Teflon tubing before running out of the original two pieces I

received with the printer.

They had to be shortened regularly because they were getting damaged by

traction in the quick connectors, and instead of popping out, some even

was torn apart in the filament feeder plug !

The replacement I bought was a "teflon tube 4mm inner 6mm" (well, there

is only one way to read the diameters). I got 12 ft for $19 with shipping on

eBay.

Replace the Teflon / PTFE / bowden tube


Homemade heated bed
https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tecrd.com/http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BED6dzZfl78/UIf3nOdgHMI/AAAAAAAAANs/6FzINcTjlK8/s1600/teflon_tube1.jpghttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=emailhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vfmcC0ceVnA/UIgVCDj6mxI/AAAAAAAAAOw/Y31L_XAByqU/s1600/wood_222deg_3.jpghttp://www.tecrd.com/http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IKRfPcR6r4s/UJg5Nozok2I/AAAAAAAAAcg/TBBhmRvjyjs/s1600/owl_back_small_detail.jpghttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587


11/27

nter improvements


Do you really need an answer ? You just needone in my humble opinion. After I made mine, I never had an

object pop off by itself because of cooling retraction or because a small plastic blob was hit by the head while it

printed the next layer (which occurs almost all the time with tall and thin structures).

Moreover, I used a single power supply setup, that I concealed on the underside of the printer. I now have only

the mains and USB cable getting out of the printer, and carry no more bulky external power supply. It also

reduces the failures due to the tired stock power plug when someone bends over the printer...

This post is divided into 4 parts:

1. Trying different material for a cold bed (aka no hot bed!)

2. Using resistors and a sheet of stainless steel sheet (for reference)

3. Using Peltier modules (for reference)

4. Workinghot bed with a PCB (win)

First, I started printing PLA on the acrylic bed covered by the regular 3M blue scotch. Not so good, as anyone

knows, it does not stick that much (or the opposite sometimes!), and the bed needs to be redone all the time with

small gaps between the bands.

I also tried the 3M scotch 2090 (aka painters tape, 48mm), which did a bit better.

I did not try to print directly on the naked acrylic bed as some people did, because I really think it would damage i

when the head stays low for a while (which happens to me regularly, eg on lost connection or interrupted prints).

For some time, I also used sprayed adhesive on a regular sheet of paper

on the acrylic bed. This did work well, but the objects stuck so much to

the paper that they often damaged it when they were removed from the

bed. So I regularly had to remove pieces of paper from the objects and to

redo the bed.

Kapton (picture on the left) was an intermediate and classic choice. Just

buy some anyway since it is very useful all the time. It is a kind of heat-

resistant scotch that does not degrade with time.

I finally decided I really had to get a heated bed (or hot bed, or heating

bed, whatever, something semi-hot I would print upon...). What is

surprising to me is that Ultimaker still did not provide nor even

recommend an "official" one. And not surprisingly, there are as many

heated bed designsas hobbyists.

Why add a heated bed ?

Trying different material for a cold bed

Heat-resistant Kapton tape
http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bedhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bedhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k2kRAMsdCOE/UIeQDyJLacI/AAAAAAAAAMc/i1ZEbzF2hNA/s1600/kapton.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlVsGsFL9Lw/UIeVNjzRRzI/AAAAAAAAAMw/Wi0J67BIAzE/s1600/hotbed_cables.jpghttp://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed


12/27

nter improvements


May be when the market is ready we get heated bed stock with the printer, but for now no design rule them all.

Since I also bought me a printer to hack it, I chose the obvious solution : build one on my own too (YAHB, yet

another heated bed).

I had an unused RC2C kitaround, that I bought when I thought I would naively create my own printer. Then I

cowardly bought an Ultimaker ;) Well, I still think I'll use this for a milling machine, but this will be later on.

The kit came with these block resistors (embedded in metallic cases that can be screwed on a support). Actually,

they were quite bulky and they were chosen for the R2C2 24V power supply. Powering them with a 19V madethem heat slower.

I used a convenient DS18B20cheap digital sensor to get the temperature and basic relay, which were controlled

by a small and cheap arduino pro mini. I also used an optocouplerto separate the signals.

But the final issue was that I just had no aluminum plate at the time. Instead, I used a very stiff 3 mm stainless

steel plate (so hard to cut, wow!). But stainless steel is a bad choice when it comes to heating. It was very slow to

conduct heat, and failed quite miserably in the end.

The conclusion is : do not even waste spare stainless steel for a bed !

I had a thin sheet of 1mm aluminum around, no more. It was too thin to try with the resistors, without bending it

awfully, so I switched to another design.

I glued the aluminum it to a thick plywood plank for rigidity, in which I had cut two 4cm x 4cm holes, respectively

for two TEC12710 Peltier modulesI bought on ebay (at around $13). Before using Peltier modules, I recommend

reading about them, such as from this FAQ.

Respective heatsinks were held in place with a springy but hard metallic wire (a motorbike wheel spoke, excellent

stuff to keep), itself maintained by screws in the plywood (see below). I also added some thermal paste betweenthe Peltier and the aluminum sheet.

First attempt: make a hotbed with resistors and a sheet of stainless steel

Second attempt: make a hotbed with Peltier modules and plywood support
http://www.3dprinting-r2c2.com/http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://il.rsdelivers.com/product/lite-on/ltv-817c-v/optocoupler-transistor-output-35v-dip4/6912158.aspxhttp://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=peltier+tec+12710http://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLzArJI4KOM/UIeNknz7LoI/AAAAAAAAAMM/lYv2TX8GqHU/s1600/hotbed_resistors.jpghttp://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=peltier+tec+12710http://il.rsdelivers.com/product/lite-on/ltv-817c-v/optocoupler-transistor-output-35v-dip4/6912158.aspxhttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://www.3dprinting-r2c2.com/


13/27

nter improvements


Now, this design was simple and clean, for sure. And it was much thinner than with the bulky resistor-based one.

I knew the Peltier would not heat much over ~50, but that may still have been OK for PLA. Hence I did not use

any temperature sensor, which is wrong...

Yes it heated... but only for two minutes before it killed itself.

Actually I quickly blew the two Peltier modules. For one, I would better use a fan-based active cool ing. But more,

think the power supply I bought was so harsh that the Peltier had time to melt they own core before spreading the

heat to the bed (aka reach the reflow temperature). There was no limiting temperature sensor I could check tomake them heat progressively : I should have hashed the current flow, and not applied it all, and give more time to

reach the target temperature.

The conclusion is : do not use Peltier module to heat your bed like this, unless you want to spend a lot on big

ones plusproper cooling ! Even with controlled heating to their maximum, I am not sure they would work in the

long term. They would not let you heat enough for ABS plastic neither, so it is a no go in my opinion.

Since I did not want to burn more Peltier modules, which proved to be not so cheap when you destroy them like

this, I finally switched to a classic PCB heating element.

BTW, I still like the magic of Peltier modules, and I probably will get back to them one day, but may be for an

actively cooled thermal valve.I suspect they are better used for cooling than for heating.

This one is working really well, and I like the way I did it for the leveling.

Using a PCB as a heater

This is a regular Thing-O-Matic Heater Board v1.1, that I paid $20+$6 on ebay.

It is much smaller than the Ultimaker bed size, but thanks to the aluminum sheet, I do not think it makes a

difference in the end. May be it heats less quickly but I get to 55 in one or two minutes, which is OK for me.

By the way, I could have tried first to use thin strips of food aluminum sheets instead, or even some nichrome wire

just to try to reduce the BOM. But I wanted a working hot bed now!

Third attempt: make a working hot bed with a PCB (win)
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pSkvHD1h_KI/UIcSJZM3zVI/AAAAAAAAAK8/ImIGBafsAyI/s1600/IMG_9575.JPGhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HOKDbpdrx-A/UIeNqgg3xuI/AAAAAAAAAMU/pPDw_1F7uRQ/s1600/hotbed_peltier.jpghttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJ


14/27

nter improvements


The sensor is a 1 wire dallas DS18B20(or DS1820). It gives direct digital values so it's extremely easy to

interface. It maynot be ok for high temperatures however (ie. may not reach the ABS requirements, when you

really need high bed temperatures).

I also had to cut one track if I remember near the yellow short cable above. You may find it out by clicking on the

picture.

The cables that go to the left are for a LED. However I forgot to drill the aluminum for the LED to be seen from

the top on the bed, so I only can see it from the bed side... This is not a big problem since I hear the relay

clicking and feel the warm with my hand. Still, it would have been cool to get some light through the bed.

I tried to think of a better way to fix the PCB, but it works quite well like this with Kapton tape... KISS

I paid $8.29 en ebay for a "50mm 5cm X 33m 100ft Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant". By the way,

this Kapton tape is really useful even on cold beds and for protecting the head. Larger tape could be nice, but I

find it already difficult to lay this one properly with no spurious folds, so I am not sure a bigger tape would beeasier.

Using an aluminum plate to distribute heat and have a flat bed

Ouch, what a messy piece of work (but it will be hidden)
http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/isolate-head-with-kapton-fight-plastic.htmlhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZiXmfxg2t70/UIcTlv0SgOI/AAAAAAAAALM/jV6gDhb4TZ8/s1600/IMG_9579.JPGhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BT1lzmma3Lo/UIcS_JTnNJI/AAAAAAAAALE/IpHju3fVwiM/s1600/IMG_9578.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/isolate-head-with-kapton-fight-plastic.htmlhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdf


15/27

nter improvements


I drilled with 3mm, and used a 8mm drill (see also this useful tool)for the bevels so the screw heads are flush. I

wanted to add a glass on top of the alu bed from the beginning, to protect both the aluminum and the head.

Talking about the aluminum, this is a 3mm thick 25x25 cm item I got for 5+8 for this "Aluminium Sheet - 3mm x

250mm x 250mm" on ebay. I just could not find the same thickness at local hardware shop, weird. And I suggestthis is right, but the minimum thickness for an alu bed whatever you put on top of it.

Using rubber pivot beneath the aluminum bed

I think this is my real contribution to heated beds : these pieces of rubber really simplify the bed leveling b/c they

provide a unique and quite convenient central pivot, with the addition that the 3 screws no more need springs !

One very nice kind of rubber are the halves of destroyed squash balls ; these are almost indestructible (at least

without a racket)...

The big ring is to distribute the load on a bigger surface and push firmly the PCB against the aluminum, while

leaving some room around the temperature sensor. Its thickness is a bit bigger than that of the 2 nuts on the

screws as seen below.

I kept the outside edges open so that heat flows outwards. The aluminum may be heated more uniformly this way

(which is probably not significant), but more importantly, it cools down faster after a print by letting hot air flow

outside.
http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mHOwfv-sY0A/UIcUhUWNEII/AAAAAAAAALc/9q1rbogD5ks/s1600/IMG_9582.JPGhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xe_tJtlJRF4/UIcUGDVXKBI/AAAAAAAAALU/9HTpLjjcVMQ/s1600/IMG_9580.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html


16/27

nter improvements


I did not worry that the wood bends with temperature, since the three screws are attached to the aluminum in the

first place. Its main use is to isolate the PCB so that the heat goes primarily to the aluminum, and not elsewhere.

I painted the wood black with some metallic spray, partly because I did not want to spend the time varnishing it as

the rest of the printer ;)

Heated bed final setup

Once again, no spring and only three screws made me quite happy compared to the initial setup !

The real trick is the two pieces of rubber in the middle, that act both as a pivot and a spring.

Also, there are only 3 screws, not 4 of them. They are 3mm thread diameter, I drilled one hole on the back of the

Z-carriage. The front one are in the small and already damaged Delrin stock parts.

Next step would be to get rid of the whole existing Z plywood. I have a bit of up/down freeplay because the two Z

linear bearing are not clamped enough by the arm plywood, and same with the Z ballscrew (well it's no ballscrew

in fact).

Soon or later, I will head towards a triangular support made of steel rods, pointed towards me. And may be add a

third vertical rod and linear bearing in the front of the bed to make the whole platform very steady.

Add an overall oven glass on top of the aluminum ?

Finally, I added an oven glass on the top of the aluminum sheet. It was cut for me for a so-called discount price

because of its size for about 25 (huh).

The layered bed as seen from the side. I have just enough room to plug the power and signal cables.

I added a cheap black plywood bottom layer to avoid wasting heat, and to spread it evenly.

Final setup: screws should be shortened to get more Z volume (which I never missed so far)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EAojm-VEUk8/UIcVf5KdBsI/AAAAAAAAALs/TSHYV2i0crU/s1600/hotbed_final.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoIq-Mokn7Q/UIcVSAiYuwI/AAAAAAAAALk/anuatcCn2NY/s1600/IMG_9583.JPG


17/27

nter improvements


I really think it improves the setup for two reasons at least :

it makes the surface absolutely flat (the aluminum is almost never

really flat and moves with temperature)

it dampens the temperature raise very homogeneously: the aluminum

conducts heats very quickly, and then diffuses upwards in the glass from

everywhere

Printing on oven glass or not?

Initially, I was expecting to swap between two glass plates in case the parts were hard to remove, but this proved

false even when the bed was kept hot (ie. it's easy to pop the object from the glass, even when hot).

I added Kapton on the glass, not sure why but I like it. May be I feel that it protects the class against scratches,

even though an oven glass is almost indestructible (I dropped it once from about 1m20 on the hard floor with

barely a scratch!). I think Kapton also gives a tiny bit of margin to better adjust the Z bed leveling, especially as

you'll see the head scratch the Kapton when it's too low...

Finally, it improved how the object sticks to the bed.

Since the oven glass extremely robust compared to regular glass that I would not want to use, I even used paper

clips to hold it in place with pieces of Kapton under the clip jaws. Using four of them forces contact with the

aluminum everywhere. This is NOT recommended for regular glass that probably would break (the two materialexpand quite differently with heat). In any case, I used two pair of pliers to make the paper clip a bit looser/wider.

In the first picture in this post you'll notice that I added a dumb plastic clamp to keep the cable close to the printer

wall, though I could print a smaller dedicated clip.

One single power supply located under the printer

The single-power supply setup (with the extended feetI had to design)
http://www.blogger.com/www.thingiverse.com/thing:25438http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kQDnGZXO9V4/UIcgSe9CM-I/AAAAAAAAAL8/P-VA86sQhAQ/s1600/IMG_9597.JPGhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l2tQX2HtblA/UIebXAPWzbI/AAAAAAAAANE/8dBwovVi49s/s1600/paperclip.jpghttp://www.blogger.com/www.thingiverse.com/thing:25438


18/27

nter improvements


I bought this power supply from ebay (a 300W 24V 12.5A Switching Power Supply, for $26+28), and then I

cowardly tuned it to 19V, as there is a convenient trimpot, and so I could solder wires directly to the power

connector of the main board. I was glad to get rid of the old and bulky external power supply, and have everything

within the printer.

The power supply never had an issue since October 2011.

A second output of the power supply powers an arduino pro mini (see the bottom- left case? ). It controls the

heated bed temperature through a relay. For now it just does bang-bang with a 1 hysteresis, targeting a fixed

temperature of 55.

There is a dumb off/on switch that goes to the other side but I plan to add some better interface later (eg. 7-digit

led temp display + control), or get back to a thermistor and plug the logics to the main printer board so I benefit

from Marlin firmware support.

Integrate the hot bed electronics to the Ultimaker firmware ?

Sincerely, I would not have my hot bed powered by the stock Arduino main board neither the stock power supply

At least buy a bigger power supply, then use a cheap relay (or a huge and costly low-resistance mosfet). And

recompile the firmware in order to disable bed PWM (not suited for a relay).

I would not power the Ultimaker with anything else than 19V also because I don't want to take any risks, even

though some people used 21V (the regulator is said to get really hot).

Having separate hotbed electronics and control NEVER was an issue to me. May be one day I will switch to a

firmware-controller hot bed, but I would have to recompile it because it will not support the convenient DS1820temperature sensor I used anyway...

Future improvements

There is no main switch at all, but I since added a self shutdown circuit(aka suicide), that also switches the

hotbed off. May be I will try a safer watchdog with the pro mini to spy on the printer noise or vibration and shut it

automatically when idle for some time.

My setup also powers 2 serial short strips of leds (2x12V). I sticked them on the vertical walls of the box, and

though it makes it like the NASA by night, it is not really the most efficient place. I need to design a printed

support and post about it.

The schematics are straightforward: the DS signal goes to pin 12 (see arduino playgroundfor more on this), aswitch is added to pin 11 (to the ground to disable heating the bed), and the relay is driven with a small transistor

on pin 10 to avoid asking too much current from the arduinopro mini (why? how? see this detailed postfor

example). I even could use a single AVR 8 pin chip, not an $10 arduino.

For now, temperature is hard-coded to 55, here is the raw source code:

#def i ne DS18S20_I D 0x10

#def i ne DS18B20_I D 0x28

#def i ne PIN_BED_SWI TCH 11 / / on/ off mai n swi t ch t o enabl e/ di sabl e heati ng the bed

#def i ne PI N_RELAY 10 / / t he rel ay pi n

#def i ne BED_TEMP_MI N 54

#def i ne BED_TEMP_MAX 55

/ /

/ / OneWi re Li brary: htt p:/ / www. pj rc. com/ t eensy/t d_l i bs_OneWi re. html

/ /

#i ncl ude

OneWi re ds(12); / / t he DS18 sensor pi n

byt e dsAddr[ 8];

l ong prevMi l l i s= 0;

enum { TMP_OK=0, TMP_AVAI LABLE=0, TMP_I N_PROGRESS=1, TMP_NOT_FOUND=- 1, TMP_BAD_CHECKSUM=- 2,

TMP_UNKNOWN_DEVI CE=- 3 };

i nt getTemperat ure(byte addr[ 8], f l oat * t emp)

{

*t emp= - 100;

i f ( addr [ 0] ==0) r et urn TMP_NOT_FOUND;

byte i ;

byte present = 0;

byt e data[ 12] ;

i f ( prevMi l l i s==0) / / start conversi on

{

ds. reset( ) ;

The electronics and arduino code that drives the relay
http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/11/auto-shutoff-at-end-of-print.htmlhttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/11/auto-shutoff-at-end-of-print.html


19/27

nter improvements


ds. select( addr) ;

/ / Start conversi on

ds.wri te(0x44, 1); / / RequestScratchPad

/ / Wi l l wait some t i me. . .

prevMi l l i s= mi l l i s ( ) ;

r et urn TMP_I N_PROGRESS;

}

i f ( mi l l i s( ) < prevMi l l i s + 850)

r et urn TMP_I N_PROGRESS;

/ / I ssue Read scr atchpad command

present = ds.r eset( );

ds. select( addr);

ds.wri t e(0xBE); / / ReadScrat chPad

/ / Recei ve 9 bytes

f or(i =0; i


20/27

nter improvements



Labels: bed,electric, heat, mechanical, replacement

e se

{

Ser i al . p r i n t l n ( " ( i dl e) " ) ;

}

l ast Temp= t ;

del ay( 650);

}

}

Feel free to ask for more info, and, yes, you need a heated bed also ; it really changed my life ;)


Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Read more


Labels: general,review, software

Review : which software for 3D printers?

Example: Cura as a smart front end to show, scale, slice and print

A short review o f 3D-pr in ting softwares


Read more


Presenting my eBay Ultimaker clone (part 2): the head

You may want to check also the first part.

To the credit of my seller, the printer came with a few special improvements from the real machine. To his

discredit though, freely using the name Ultimaker is illegal, and I am far from sure that he released these

modifications under an open hardware licence, as requiredby the initial designers of the Ultimaker. As a general

rule, consider also that your free support should come from your seller and especially not from the company that

got abused in the first place!

An improved hot head that looked like an o ff ic ial V2
https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/electrichttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/heathttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/softwarehttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.com/2012/10/my-ebay-ultimaker-clone.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/yKvBBLhSRsA/DcOH9VmRPBIJhttp://blog.ultimaker.com/open-source-hardware/http://blog.ultimaker.com/open-source-hardware/https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/yKvBBLhSRsA/DcOH9VmRPBIJhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.com/2012/10/my-ebay-ultimaker-clone.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgN8ieGpiTM/UIbd44itjVI/AAAAAAAAAKE/Mfr9WcTyWBM/s1600/cura.pnghttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/softwarehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=emailhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/heathttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/electrichttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587


21/27

nter improvements


Labels: general,hot end


Read more

Posted by Jeremie Francois at 9:28 AM 6 comments:

Labels: bowden tube, mechanical

Bevel the bowden tube ends

I use a very convenient toolto

deburr/countersink/bevel the bowden tubeends. I

found it by chance and it is very cheap. Now I use it

everywhere (it also will deal with aluminium by the

way).

There are two reasons to use it on bowden tube ends

in my opinion :

it reduces friction of the filament on the tube

square edges

it makes the tube softer so that it can be applied

with progressive force against the PEEK for

example, for a better seal

Before buying the tool I used my biggest drills, but it

was much harder to do a proper job.


Monday, October 22, 2012

Read more


Labels: feeder,mechanical, replacement

Printed filament feeder small gear

The small stock delrin gear on the feeder stepper motor got some freeplay with time. I first replaced it with one I

found on thingiversemade by Chasmaker. You can download my derivative here.

http://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/hot%20endhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/hand_countersinks/1_hand_countersink/s/p/index.htmlhttp://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/hand_countersinks/1_hand_countersink/s/p/index.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/robust-bowden-attachment-with-blind.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26428http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iL-tHtTpjrk/UIUKjt94-_I/AAAAAAAAAJc/r9DUN5N5qQ0/s1600/small_gear.jpghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26428http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=2461147058293208245&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=2461147058

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3D Printer Improvements

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