6 Electrotherapy

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education 1

Electrotherapy

Machine Facials

©2003 Texas Trade and Industrial Education Cosmetology I: Machine Facials 2

Electrotherapy

Facial treatments using electrical facial machines & small electrical appliances are known as electrotherapy

Modalities These are the currents used in electrical facial & scalp

treatments. Cosmetologist are concerned with 4 different currents

Galvanic Faradic Sinusoidal Tesla High-frequency


Machine Facials


Modalities Galvanic current

Most commonly used Constant & direct (DC) current Positive & negative pole Producing chemical changes when it passes through the tissues &

fluids of the body Two different chemical reactions are possible, depending on the

polarity (negative or positive) Avoid galvanic current on certain clients

Metal implants, pace maker or heart insufficiency Epilepsy Pregnancy High blood pressure, fever, infection Open or broken skin; pustular acne Fear of electrical currents

CAUTION: remember to firmly wrap all electrodes w/ a moistened cotton pledget. Always place passive electrode on right side of client’s body to avoid current flow through the heart


Modalities

Positive Pole ( Anode ) Negative Pole ( Cathode ) Produces acidic reactions Produces alkaline

reactions Closes the pores Opens the pores Soothes nerves Stimulates &

irritates the Decreases blood supply nerves Contracts blood vessels Increases blood

supply Hardens & firms tissues Expands blood

vessels Softens tissues


Application of galvanic current Active electrode used on area being treated

Negative pole is the active electrode when negative reactions are desired on the face: forcing negative ions into the skin; opening follicles; liquefying sebum

Plug back cord into metal roller or flathead stick electrode This is the electrode used on client’s face; also referred to as a

disincrustor Pass electrode

Called passive because it is NOT being used on client’s face Client can hold metal stick or cylinder which is always wrapped

in a moistened cotton pledget; or you can place wet pad on client’s right upper arm or under right shoulder

The electrode is always placed on right side of avoid current flow to heart


Procedure for Disincrustration

The process of softening & emulsifying grease deposits & blackheads in the follicles for easier extraction

Active electrode is wrapped in cotton moistened with electrolyte An electrolyte is any compound that conducts a current

of electricity; saltwater works well Client holds passive electrode in right hand

Or …wet pad is placed on a comfortable spot on right side of client’s body

Active electrode (negative polarity) is placed on client’s face & moved slowly over oily areas of face for 3-5 minutes

All liquefied sebum is removed from skin before facial continues


Iontophoresis

Comes from the Greek and means “moving ion” The process forces water-soluble products that

contain ions deeper into skin with help of electric current Anaphoresis

Negative pole ( cathode ) forces negatively charged ions (anions) into skin

Cataphoresis Positive pole (anode ) forces positively charged ions

(cations) into skin


Modalities

Faradic current Alternating & interrupted current Produce impulses on muscles & force them to contract;tone

facial muscles Produces a mechanical reaction without a chemical effect Used during scalp & facial manipulations to cause muscular

contractions that tone the facial muscles Benefits derived

Improved muscle tone Removal of waste products Increased blood circulation Relief of blood congestion Increased glandular activity Stimulation of hair growth Increased metabolism


Modalities

Sinusoidal current Similar to faradic current Used during scalp & facial manipulations Alternating current that produces mechanical contractions

that tone the muscles Produce impulses on muscles & force them to

contract;tone facial muscles Advantages

Supplies greater stimulation, deeper penetration, & is less irritating than faradic current

Soothes the nerves & penetrates into deeper muscle tissue Is best suited for the nervous client


Faradic & Sinusoidal current Application

Cathode is placed on insertion of the muscle Insertion is the part that does not move; it is attached to

the skeleton & is usually part of a skeletal muscle Anode is placed on the origin of the muscle

Origin is the part of the muscle at the more movable attachment to the skeleton

Pressure in massage is usually directed from the insertion to the origin

Muscles contract 5-10 times each Do not use faradic current if it causes pain or discomfort


Modalities

Tesla high-frequency current Discovered by Nikolas Tesla

Has a germicidal effect; effective for acne-prone skin Thermal or heat-producing current High rate of oscillation or vibration Commonly called violet ray Used for both scalp & facial treatments Does not produce muscle contractions Effects can be either stimulating or soothing, depending

on the method of application


Modalities Electrodes are made from either glass or metal

One electrode is used to perform a service Electrodes

Direct HF is mushroom shaped & variety of sizes Indirect HF is long w/metal coil inside

Air around glass electrode vibrates & tiny violet sparks are emitted

Some units have neon gas in the tube that produces an orange glow;all types produce the same effects

Benefits Stimulated blood circulation Improved glandular activity Increased elimination & absorption Increased metabolism Improved germicidal action Relief of congestion


Methods for High-Frequency Current Application

Direct surface application No product on face Use gauze if electrode won’t move easily on skin Apply glass electrode to client’s skin & move slowly over

entire face for stimulation Hold finger on glass electrode to prevent sparking Remove finger once electrode is placed on skin Dab electrode on spot to cause sparking for stronger

germicidal effects


Methods for High-Frequency Current Application

Indirect application Client holds tube electrode w/ metal coil inside Cosmetologist massages face w/own hands

At no time does cosmetologist hold the electrode Turn current on after client has firm hold on electrode

This prevents shock Turn current off before removing electrode from client's

hand This method stimulates all cell functions without the

irritation that can e caused by the direct method This method is highly beneficial for sensitive, dehydrated

skin


High Frequency

Used to increase and stimulate blood circulation

Test on client’s hand first to familiarize them with noise


Cleansing

The large brush is for large areas

The small brush is good for small areas

Used to remove makeup, dirt, and oil from the skin


Magnifying Light

Used to analyze skin

Determine if skin is oily, normal or dry

Best used after skin has been cleansed


Steamer

Used on oily skin

Do NOT use if client is asthmatic or has high blood pressure

Use only distilled water in the steamer


Vacuum Tube

Vacuum tubes are used to remove surface impurities

Check suction strength prior to placement on client’s skin

Large tube for large areas & small tube for up-close work


Atomizer

Used at the end of the facial to close pores

Spray a light mist over the face.

Do not over saturate


Mini Sanitizer

Used to keep sterilized implements sanitized

This does NOT sanitize implements for you

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