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Definition : Nail polish or nail varnish is a preparation

that is applied to the nails of both the fingers and toes, usually cosmetically, but also as protection for the nails. to decorate nails of fingers & toes which gives clean & pink nail as well as elegant and healthy look.

For therapeutic purpose : nail cream

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Characteristics : Harmless to skin, Convenient & easy to apply, Stable on storage, Should form satisfactorily film on nails, Proper viscosity (film formed is even so good wetting

& flow property), Uniform color, Good adhesive properties, Good gloss , which implies a very smooth surface Sufficient

flexibilities to avoid brittleness, cracking Satisfactory drying properties Maintenance

of properties for 1 week

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Formulation :

Film former, Resin Plasticizer Solvent Pigment Suspending agents Perfumes Nail Lacquer System Lacquer base Coloring agents Other formulating agents.

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FILM FORMER : Cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butylate, ethyl

cellulose, vinyl polymer & other polymer of methacrylate

Nitrocellulose: Available in solution of different viscosity,

Film produced: hard & water-proof & abrasion resistance If used alone: poor gloss, tendency to shrink. Available in 2 standards: RS & SS

RS : 11.2 to 12.8% nitrogen & soluble in esters, ketones, glycol ether

SS : 10.7 to 11.2 % nitrogen & soluble in alcohol & toluene.

Selection of other ingredients r important, instability may cause severe discoloration of nails of the users.

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RESINS:Used to impart adhesion and improve gloss

Helps in dispersing insoluble pigments & lakes

e.g. shellac,benzoin,ester gums, vinyl resin like PVA Sulphonamide - formaldehyde resins are presently used most. Santolite MHP: harder film Santolite MS 80%: flexibility, high gloss, good flow property RESINS

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PLASTICIZERS : Used to avoid brittle film formed by nitrocellulose Used to impart flexibility & adhesive property to film Two types:

Solvent plasticizers: compatible with nitrocellulose Non-solvent plasticizers: non-compatible with nitrocellulose

Used in combination, proportion is usually 1:1. Examples: Dibutyl phthalate, Butyl glycollate, Butyl stearate, Camphor, Castor oil, Dibutyl tartrate Glycollate plasticizers: better hardness, better feel, good adhesion on nail

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SOLVENT :

Evaporation is important but not rapid as it causes uneven & streaky application .

Blushing: dull film & unattractive finish due to rapid cooling.

Low BP solvents: Ethyl ether, Pet. ether, Acetone, Ethanol.

Medium BP solvents: Amyl acetate, Xylol, Butyl alcohol. High BP solvents: Ethyl lactate, Carbitol.

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Active solvent: Esters, ketones, glycol ethers May be fast,

medium & slow evaporating Couplers: Non- solvent for nitrocellulose Used to increase the strength of solvent Diluents: Used to stabilize viscosity, Form subsequent coat of enamel applied to nail Ethanol, IPA, Butanol.

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PIGMENTS : Properties:

Non-toxic, Non-irritating, Non-staining, Compatible with other ingredients, Moderately exposed to light Color used

mentioned in Schedule Q of D & C rules. Titanium dioxide, Yellow iron oxide, Red

iron oxide, Iron blue, Iron black, Ultramarine black,

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SUSPENDING AGENTS :

Insoluble pigments have tendency to settle

Suspending agents: avoid sedimentation

Bentone 0.5 to 2% Ortho phosphoric acid may used to

increase the viscosity.

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PERFUMES :

Used to mask the odor of other ingredients

Not used in high product conc. Strong perfumes avoided

Generally synthetic perfumes are preferred

but causes destabilization of the color or .

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Steps in nail lacquer formulation :Formula:

Nitrocellulose - 15 .0 ml Eudragit RS 100 - 2.5 gm Di butyl Phthalate - 4.5 gm Alcohol + Acetone (40:60) -10 ml Ethyl Acetate - 30ml Butyl Acetate - 5.0ml Toluene - 30 ml Pigment - 3.0 ml

Procedure: Take the weighed quantity of nitrocellulose in a glass bottle (vial) and add ethyl acetate and butyl acetate. Allow it to swell. Add the other ingredients like diluent and pigment and shake well. Pack in a stopper bottle and label.

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Add 75% of the solvent and whole of the diluents in the mixer.mix well with agitation

Add nitrocellulose while agitating

Add resin & plasticizer and remaining of the solvent

Stirr till dissolved

Check viscosity

Clarify by filtration

Add colour

Steps in Nail Lacquer Formulation

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Packing:-

Glass bottles with a brush applicator is the most conventional container.

The capacity is 8-18 ml. The container consists of air-tight aluminum

canister with an acrylic fiber tip/nib which applies polish directly to nails

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Color :-

Color Comparing with master color standards by applying on nail Non volatile content :-

Dish method Sample of 1/0.5 gms place in a dish , Sample is spread over dish, Place in an oven at 105˚C , Skin formed is broken up with the wire Again place in

an oven at 105˚C for 1hr Weighed loss value calculating the impurity

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Drying time :-

Apply film of 0.006 on glass or melamine coated paper temp &humidity condition 25˚C & 50% RH note time required to form dry to touch film

Hardness :-

Hardness 0.006 inches cast on glass plate Dried for 48 hrs at 25˚C Followed by 2 hrs at 70˚C Repeated again Film scratch with thumb

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Smoothness :- Film Nail lacquer applied o smooth surface Film

studied microscopically Adhesion Applied on surface & trying to remove film mechanically & measure force required to remove the film.

Abrasive Effect :- Applied on surface & apply the mechanical

abrasive effect Surface characteristics of film studied before & abrasive effect. Viscosity Brooke field viscometer

Water resistance :- Measures resistance of the water permeability of

film Apply on surface & immerse or deep in water Before & after wt. taken & calculated More the increase in wt. lower the water resistance

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NAIL LACQUER REMOVER

Preparations generally used to remove the nail lacquer Contains fats in small amount Available in liquid form but some creams are available in market.

Solvents like acetone, ethyl acetate, toluene are used. More volatile solvent are avoided as they cause

dehydration & remove fats form nails. May be avoided by using blended solvents or castor

oil.

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Characteristics : Not too be volatile, Non-irritating to

surrounding skin, Not leave fats from nail, Non- sticky, Not have unpleasant odor

Other oils used are: Almond oil, Olive oil, Cottonseed oil etc.

Some fatty additives are used are: Dibutyl phthalate, Butyl stearate & Lanolin derivatives

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Example :

1. Butyl stearate 3%2. Ethyl acetate 15%3. Butyl acetate 25% 4. Acetone 27% 5. Toluene 30%6. perfume q.s to avoid the objectionable odor & up to 3%. Water 10% Ethyl acetate 90% This is non-smearing

type of nail lacquer remover Do not dissolve enamel but loosely disintegrate it. Prepared with water & water miscible solvents.

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