8 HEAD THEORY

ANAND DUBEY

adjwm@yahoo.com

GOD MADE THE MAN&

TAILOR MADE HIM GENTLEMAN

• Artists have divided the human figure into eight equal parts, which are equal in height to that of the head.

• Each part is known as “HEAD”.• All these eight parts/division made the basis of

this theory, which although is ages old but still hold the significance to learn basic cutting of pattern

• The total height is computed at7 ½ heads, but for easy calculations, the height is taken from hair to foot (on tip toe) thus making 8 equal parts.

8 Heads of Human Body

• 1st Head-from hair to chin or nape of neck• 2nd Head-from nape of neck to bottom of scye.• 3 rdHead-from bottom of scye to navel• 4th Head-from navel to fork• 5th Head-from fork to mid thighs or end of fingers• 6th Head-from mid thighs to small, below knee• 7th Head-from small to lower leg ,just above ankle• 8th Head-from lower leg to ball of foot

Relative Length MeasurementsNape to the level of arm pit 1/8 of height 1 head

Natural Waist (Nape to waist) 1/4 of height 2 head

Fore Arm 1/4 of height 2 head

Elbow to arm pit 1/4 of height 2 head

Leg Length 1/2 of height-5cm

2 head

Slope of Shoulder 1/6 of Natural waist

Sleeve Length 3/8 of Height 3 head

Both The Arms Extended Full Height 8 Head

Knee From Fork ½ Inside Leg-5 cm

Small From Knee 5-6.5 cm

Calf From small 7.5-8.75 cm

Body rise (waist to Fork ) 1/8 of height +5 cm

Relative Girth MeasurementsNeck 1/3 of Chest+6-7.5 cm

Waist Chest-10-12.5 cm

Seat Chest+2.5-5 cm

Small Round 1/3 of Seat

Knee round Small round+2.5-4 cm

Calf round Small round+2.5-4 cm

Shoulder (half) 1/4 of chest

Bottom Round Calf round-2.5 cm

Scye round ½ chest-.75 cm

Across chest ¼ of Chest-2.5-4 cm

Half back 1/6 of chest+4cm

Depth Of scye 1/8 of height +5 cm

How to measureBlazer/Jacket/Vest/Coat

A.Across chest - Measure straight across front at narrowest point between armhole seams. (Garment must be fastened)B.Chest/bust- Measure straight across front body, 1" below armhole, from edge to edgeC.Bottom/sweep - Measure along the bottom edge of garment.D.Total body length from high point of shoulder- Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of garment.E.Shoulder seam- -Measure from neck seam along shoulder to armhole seam.F.Armhole (curved)- -Measure from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of underarm seam at armhole, following the shape of curve lineG.Armhole (straight)- -Measure straight from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of underarm seam at armhole.H.Upper arm(1 " below armhole)- - measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel to sleeve opening.I.Sleeve length from shoulder- -Measure from joint of shoulder seam at sleeve to bottom edge of sleeveJ.Sleeve length from centre back- -Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to bottom edge of sleeve.K.Sleeve (2" above cuff)- -Measure 2" above cuff or finished edge, straight across sleeve (from edge to edge).L.Sleeve opening- -Measure along the edge of sleeveM.Across shoulder- -Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam.N.Across back - Measure straight across back at narrowest point between armhole seamsO.Centre back length - Measure from centre back neck seam, straight across to the bottom edge of garment.P.Neck opening - Measure along neck seam from centre front to centre back.Q.Flap width - Measure along the top of flap (from edge to edge).R.Flap depth - Measure from centre of top edge of flap to bottom edgeS.Welt pocket opening - Measure along the welt pocket opening (from edge to edge).T.Chest pocket from neck point - Measure from high point of shoulder seam at neck to top of flap or welt.

Jeans/Pants/Shorts/Skirt

Jeans/Pants/Shorts/Skirt

Woven Bottom - Jeans/Pants/Shorts/SkirtA. Waist relaxed

B. High hip

C. Low hip

D. Thigh

E. Knee

F. Leg opening

G. Inseam

H. Outseam

I. Front rise

J. Back rise

K. Back pocket width

L. Back pocket depth

M. Front pocket opening

N. Centre back length

(for skirts )

O. Sweep

(for skirts only)

A. Measure along the centre of waistband. (Garment must be fastened)B. Measure across hip at specified distance (usually 4" at centre front and side

seams) below waist seam.C. Measure across hip at specified distance (usually 8" at centre front and side

seams) below waist seam.D. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure across the garment from front

crease to back crease at bottom of crotch seams. E. Fold garment with inseams matching. Specify distance (inches or cm) below

crotch seam along inseam. Measure straight across leg from front crease to back crease at indicated point.

F. Measure along the bottom of leg. G. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure from cross of crotch seam straight

along to the bottom of leg. H. Fold garment with inseams matching. Measure straight along seam line from

bottom of waistband to bottom of leg opening. I. Measure from waist seam to crotch seam. If there is no waist seam, measure from

top of the pants to crotch seam. J. Measure from waist seam to crotch seam. If there is no waist seam, measure from

top of the pants to crotch seam.K. Measure along the pocket opening (from edge to edge). L. Measure from top edge down to bottom edge at centre of pocket M. Measure along pocket edge from waist seam to side seam, following the shape of

curve line. N. Measure waistband seam to the bottom hem. If there is no waistband, measure

from the top of skirt to the bottom hem.

O. Measure along the bottom edge of hem.

Blouse/Shirt

Woven Top - Woven Shirt/BlouseA.Across chest B. Chest/bustC. Bottom/sweepD. Total body length from high

point of shoulderE. Shoulder seam F.Armhole (straight) G. Upper arm H. Sleeve (2" above cuff) I. Cuff opening J. Sleeve opening K. Sleeve length from shoulder L. Sleeve length from centre back M. Across shoulder N. Across back O. Centre back length P. Neck opening Q. Neck opening inside R. Front neck depth

S. Collar point to point T. Neck circumference

U. Chest pocket from neck point

V. Chest pocket from centre front

A. Measure straight across front at narrowest point between armhole seams. (Garment must be fastened)

B. Measure straight across front body, 1" below armhole, from edge to edge C. Measure along the bottom edge of garment D. Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of

garment E. Measure from neck seam along shoulder to armhole seam. F. Measure straight from joint of shoulder seam at armhole to joint point of

underarm seam at armhole.G. (1" below armhole), measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel to sleeve

opening. H. Measure 2" above cuff or finished edge, straight across sleeve (from edge to

edge), all pleats open.I. Measure at middle of cuff across sleeve from fold to fold with cuff closed J. Measure along the edge of sleeve. K. Measure from shoulder/sleeve seam along top to bottom edge of sleeve L. Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to

bottom edge of sleeve (Include cuff). M. Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve

seam. N. Measure straight across back at narrowest point between armhole seams O. Measure from centre back neck seam, straight across to the bottom edge of

garment. P. Measure along neck seam from centre front to centre back. Q. Measure from inside edge of collar straight across to opposite inside edge of

collar. R. Create an imaginary line across neck at high point shoulder. Measure at

centre front from the imaginary line to front neck seam. S. Measure along the outer edge of top collar from point to point. T. Measure from centre of button to the end of buttonhole along middle of

collar band. U. Measure from high point of shoulder seam at neck to top of pocket. V. Measure from centre front to edge of pocket.

Knit Top

Knit topA. Chest/bust B. Bottom/sweepC. Upper arm D. Sleeve opening E. Armhole (curved) F. Total body length

from high point of shoulder

G. Sleeve length from shoulder

H. Sleeve length from centre back

I. Across shoulder J. Neck opening inside K. Front neck depth L. Chest pocket from

neck point M. Chest pocket from

centre front N. Minimum neck

stretch

A. Measure straight across front body, I" below armhole, from edge to edge.

B. Measure along the bottom edge of garmentC. (1" below armhole), measure straight across sleeve seam, parallel

to sleeve opening.D. Measure along the edge of sleeve. E. Measure from the joint point of shoulder seam at armhole to the

Joint point of underarm seam at armhole, following the shape of curve line.

F. Measure from shoulder seam at neck straight down to the bottom edge of garment

G. Measure from joint of shoulder seam at sleeve to bottom edge of sleeve.

H. Measure from centre back neck seam across to shoulder seam, down to bottom edge of sleeve.

I. Measure straight across back from shoulder/sleeve seam to shoulder/sleeve seam.

J. Measure from inside edge of collar straight across to opposite inside edge of collar.

K. Create an imaginary line across neck at high point shoulder. Measure at centre front from the imaginary line to front neck seam.

L. Measure from high point of shoulder at neck to top of pocket. M. Measure from centre front to edge of pocket. N. Stretch neck, do not overextend. Measure straight across the neck

opening at neck seam inside edge to edge.

BALANCES

• Front Balance less-Creases at fork• Front Balance More-Horizontal creases from waist

to fork• Back Balance Less-Creses from seat to knee• Back Balance more- More-Horizontal creases

below waist ADJUSTMENTSTOOPING-KEEP FRONT BALANCES LESSERECT-VICE –VERSA

SEAT ANGLE

• ERECT-LESS

• STOOPING-MORE

Operation breakdown and flow chart

Men's Tunic Shirt