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A CASE STUDY ON THE TRADITIONAL COSTUMES OF RONGPA TRIBE OF

UTTARAKHAND

POOJA BHATT1 & ANITA RANI2

1Scholar, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Collage of Home Science, G.B.P.U.A T, Pantnagar, !ndia

"Assistant Professor and Professor, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Collage of Home Science,

G.B.P.U.A T, Pantnagar, !ndia

ABSTRACT

The doc#ment $eholds a st#d% of Rongpa tri$e from the &iti and 'ana (illage in Uttara)hand. Clothes of Rongpa

 people *ere made of mostl% *oolen *hich help them to s#r(i(e in extreme atmosphere.As the  Rongpa people migrated to

!ndia in 1+" from Ti$et. The cost#me of this tri$e had (er% mix feat#res of $oth the places.Traditionall% the female *ore

 Paakhi, Angadi, Ghagri, Ghunti,  Kanchupa and male *ore -oolen Cap, -oollen Coat, -oolen Pant and S*eater in

*inter. The *oolen fa$ric for the garments *as fa$ricated $% the people of this comm#nit% itself. Cost#mes preser(ed the

aspect of f#nctionalit% as *ell as cost#mes *ere aesthetic also, *hich pro(ide them more significant place in the cost#mes

of !ndia. As people mo(ing o#t of their nati(e places in h#nt of li(elihood the dresses ha(e $een changed and modernied.

B#t people inha$iting in the (illages ha(e )ept the tradition still ali(e.

KEYWORDS: Rongpa, Cost#mes, -oolen, Tri$e, Traditional

INTRODUCTION

A comm#nit% li(ing in the trans/Himala%an regions of !ndia /Ti$et $order 0in Garh*al is calledrongpa.

The comm#nit% name 2 Rongpa3, deri(es from the *ord 45#ng4, *hich means (alle% and 4Pa4 means inha$itants. Those

li(ing in Chamoli, Uttara)hand are generall% referred to as Rongpa. Rongpas of Niti and Mana (alle%s are also )no*n as

 Bhotiya (Rana, 201!. Bhot  is area of Ti$et. Marchha and tolchha are the t*o s#$/gro#ps of Rongpa comm#nit%. !t has $een denied that  Rongpa  of Garh*al are people from Ti$et migrated to !ndia. There is no connection fo#nd of the

comm#nit% *ith the Ti$et other than trading in olden da%s.  Rongpa  practice p#re Hind# c#lt#re

(H"#$%' & Ta"$"%n: Rongpa )%**+n"$'!.

The Marchha s#$/gro#ps inha$it in the Niti and Mana (alle%s *hereas tolcha s#$/gro#ps inha$it in the Niti (alle%

onl%. Dialect of marchha  s#$ gro#p is different than tolchha  s#$ gro#p. Traditionall%,  Rongpa  *ere traders, farmers,

*ea(ers, shepherds and herders. Before 1+", *hen !ndo/Ti$etan Border got closed,  Rongpa #sed to trade *ith Ti$et

thro#gh the Mana and Niti passes, *hich are at an ele(ation of 6,788m. !n trading centres, the% $artered their goods for 

local Ti$etan merchandise to $e resold in local mar)ets in !ndia. 9arge n#m$ers of cara(ans of m#les, %a)s and sheep *ere

traded. ghee, salt, $eans, potatoes, peas gains etc. *ere other main items for trading. The herders sold *ool, meat, and mil) 

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

In$.na$"%na J%+na % H+*an"$".#

an S%)"a S)".n).# (IJHSS!

ISSN(P!: 21345 ISSN(E!: 21367

8%- 6, I##+. 6, J+n 3 J+ 2019, 13;0

< IASET

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A Ca#. S$+' %n $=. Ta"$"%na C%#$+*.# % Rongpa T">. % U$$aa?=an 2

to earn a li(ing (Pa=a an A=*., 2011!.

The cost#mes of the tolcha  and malcha *ere similar. So it *as co(ered #nder the name of cost#mes of 

rongpabhotiya.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A s%stematic descripti(e research design *as planned to achie(e a#thentic data for the st#d%,. Personal inter(ie*s

c#m o$ser(ation method *ere #sed to s#ffice the p#rpose. A chec) list *as prepared for inter(ie* and the data *as also

collected thro#gh secondar% so#rces incl#ding $oo)s, internet and ne*s from ne*spaper. !t *as a case st#d% and the case

*as selected #sing information rating techni:#e. This is the method in *hich some mem$ers of a social s%stem are

randoml% selected and as)ed to designate persons gi(ing ad(ice and information on a general or partic#lar topic. This

method is economical and :#ic) as it sa(es cost and time. !n present st#d% ;8 percent of the people o#t of total pop#lation

of the (illage or comm#nit% *ere selected. After the selection, respondents *ere as)ed a$o#t the people aged $et*een

<6/76 *ho possess more and acc#rate information regarding the traditional cost#mes and =e*elleries of their respecti(e

tri$e. >n the $ases of their responses total 6 cases *ere selected. Self designating techni:#e *as applied on the fi(e

selected cases. !n this each selected person *as as)ed a series of :#estions related to cost#mes, =e*elleries and accessories

of their tri$e. This techni:#e *as helpf#l in determining the )e% comm#nicator. ?inall% person *ith the maxim#m

responses *as selected as case.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

F.*a. C%#$+*.# % Rongpa Tribe

U@@. a*.n$

 Angadi *as a )ind of coat made of @ean fa$ric. D#e to cold *eather in high Himala%as, Angadi *as (er% #sef#l to

)eep females *arm in *inter season. D#e to cold *eather in high Himala%as, this t*ill *ea(ed fa$ric *as (er% #sef#l to

)eep females *arm in *inter season. !t comes in $ro*n, $lac) and in gre% colo#rs. !t *as a fa$ric *ore on the #pper part

of $od% in place of $lo#se. !ts length *as #p to *aist le(el and it *as stitched :#ite loose so that other garments li)e

*oollen s*eaters can $e *orn inside this. !t *as f#ll slee(ed $lo#se *ith Chinese collar. The Chinesecollar lea(es no gap

for cold $reee to enter the clothing. The hea(% pleating at the c#ff of the $lo#se pro(ides excess and ease to the *earer . !t

*as open from front and there *ere $#ttons at the front. 'ostl% $lac) or *hite $#ttons *ere #sed. !t *as ha(ing slits at the

corners and t*o poc)ets *ere at the $ottom of angadi.

L%. a*.n$

Ghagara *as the lo*er garment made $% #sing the printed cotton fa$ric. !t *as meas#red #p to t*el(e ga. !t *as

li)e kallidar  s)irt, this kalli *as also called as paat in their local lang#age. >ne kalli *as meas#red #p to 1."6 meter and

near a$o#t to 18 kalli *ere attached together to made the  ghaghra. According to the length of the paat the cost of 

 ghagara increases or decreases. !n the $ottom of this garment lace called,  gota, *as attached to this lea(ing six inches from

its $ottom. !t *as simpl% for the $ea#tification of the  ghagara. -ith the time the cotton fa$ric *as replaced $% other 

fa$rics and sie of the ghagara *as also decreased to fo#r ga onl%. A lining called saam *as stitched inside the ghagra.

Wa@#

 Rongpa female #sed to drape a fa$ric called la!!a or  gatta or  pakhai. !t *as a $lac) colo#red plain *ea(ed fa$ric.

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

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A Ca#. S$+' %n $=. Ta"$"%na C%#$+*.# % Rongpa T">. % U$$aa?=an

!t *as feet in length and ;.6 feet in *idth. This is the onl% traditional garment that is still *ea(ed $% the rongpa *omen

and it *as not changed at all till no*. To ma)e it more $ea#tif#l r#nning stitch *as done at the sides of this *ith red and

*hite *oollen thread. !nstead of *oollen fa$ric =ean fa$ric co#ld also $e #sed. The st%le of draping this garment *as as

interesting this garment *as itself. Clothes of 5ongpa people are made of mostl% *oollen *hich help them to s#r(i(e inextreme atmosphere. Pakki 0the drape is the $est example of this. !t is made of *oollen and is drape in s#ch a manner that

it forms lots of co*ls in the front *hich gi(es *armth to the *earer. The co*ls formed at the sides create a place for 

 Rongpa *omen to rest their hand and *arm it #p, similar to ho* one co(ers their hand inside denim poc)ets for ins#lation.

 "a!!a #sed $% the $ride *as *hite in colo#red and )no*n as diudee. !t *as ha(ing flo*er at the all fo#r corners

and flo*er *as made $% the colo#red lace, called as  #urka. -hite colo#r *as a s%m$ol of p#rit% d#ring the time of 

*edding.

 Pegri *as a *hite cotton piece of fa$ric *hich is tied on the *aist. !t is 1"/16 feet long. This *as tied on the *aist

to sec#re the pleats of the  pakkhi on the *aist. Paghada is also called peghari  or  pighari sometimes. Al*a%s in *hitecolo#r and 9ight *eight fa$ric 0)ind of mal/mal Decorati(e $order *ea(ed on the edges.

H.a .a

?emale head gear *as called as chubalu or ghunti or ghunghati. ghunghati *as the s%m$ol of the married *omen

in the societ%, #se of ghunghati *as prohi$ited for the *ido* *omen and #nmarried girls. !t *as a (er% different garment

*orn $% the females of  Rongpa comm#nit%. !t is al*a%s in *hite colo#r. < to inch shin% fa$ric of contrasting colo#r is

stitched on the ghunghati co(ering the forehead. This rectang#lar piece of fa$ric is )no*n as cheka. >n the centre line of 

the cheka on the ghunghati, red colo#r pipings meas#ring cmx1cm stitched. This s%m$olised the marital stat#s of the

*omen as it *as a s%m$ol of sindoor , this *as the main reason that it *as not #sed $% an% female of this tri$e other then

the married *omen in the societ%. To tie the ghungahti on the head, t*o tie #ps are pro(ided. ?or the *ido* *omen in the

societ%, sha*ls *ere #sed to co(er their head. !t is decorated $% a special )ind of cloth. Girls mostl% *ear cotton scarf or 

handmade *oollen scarf *hich is called kanchupa.

F%%$ W.a

Chapyol or ba!accha *ere #sed as foot *ear. These *ere )nitted $% #sing the small *oollen %arns. People *ith

(er% lo* economic stat#s #sed to ma)e chapyol  $% #sing torn o#t *oollen $lan)ets. The% made soc)s )ind of str#ct#re

from old $lan)et. Some people made chapyol  from the $ags #sed for string the food grain for some #sed the goat s)in,

*hich *as called as challa or thamma. The% p#t this on the $ootm of their feet and attach lace to hold that. The% go o#tside

to *or) *earing these foot *ears.

 Munda uti *ere similar to 5a=asthani st%le uti. These *ere made $% the famo#s shoema)ers.

 "ahome *ere the colo#rf#l shoes. The% *ere #p to )nee le(el or $elo* that. Bottom of these *ere made *ith

thic) threads. The% come in fashion from Ti$et. These *ere onl% #sed $% the females.

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

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6 P%%a B=a$$ & An"$a Ran"

F"+. 1

F"+. 2

Ha"#$'.

 Rongpa female #sed to ma)e a special hair st%le. ?or this the% ta)e hairs from the front of the head, di(ide them

into fo#r parts and made fo#r plaits form them. These plaits *ere attached *ith the main plait *hich *as made *ith therest of the hairs. Chiladi *as #sed at the end of fo#r plaits to =oin them *ith the main plait. Chiladi *as similar to paranda

I*@a)$ Fa)$% (JCC!: 2-;; NAAS Ra$"n: -1

 Pegri

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A Ca#. S$+' %n $=. Ta"$"%na C%#$+*.# % Rongpa T">. % U$$aa?=an 9

#sed as a decorati(e means for enhancing the $ea#t% of the  Rongpafemale. !t *as made $% #sing colo#red fa$ric pieces

into flo*er shape t*o flo*ers *ere =oint *ith the lace, *hich *as made of *oollen %arn. Total nine flo*ers *ere there on

the chiladi.

J...".#

 Bichu!a *as the sil(er ornament *orn on the toe. it loo) li)e the ring $#t it *as open from $ac) side so that it

co#ld $e tightened or loosened according to the sie of the toe of the *earer.

 Potha *ere similar to the sli(er $angles $#t larger in *idth. Some *ere ro#nd in shape and some *ere o(al in

shape. The% *ere hollo* from inside.

 $hanhar  *as made of sli(er chains =oined together in one.

 Poliya *as a )ind of an)let. "accha *as also a sil(er an)let.

 "apcha or  munadi *as the sil(er ring. Some rings *ere ha(ing floral designs and some *ere ha(ing stones in that.

People *ith high economic stat#s #sed to ha(e golden rings also.

 Paunchi *as the sil(er ornament tied on the *rist. !n  paunchi there *ere ;8 to <8 diamond shaped or ro#nd

shaped $eads *ere st#dded on the $lac) or red (al#ate fa$ric. !t *as fastened *ith the help of$#ttons at the end.

 Nangcha *as sli(er ro#nd shape thic) $#t hallo* from inside $angle. At the $oth ends )no$ li)e str#ct#re *as

fo#nd. &o designing *as fo#nd on it. !t *as plain and smooth.

 Pati *as *orn on the *rist, made of sil(er. The length of pati *as e:#al to the length of t*o doon $angles. !t *as

!t is in a c%linder shape *hich *as open from one side portion that come to*ard the hand *as ha(ing less circ#mference

than the $ac) portion.

Gulaband  is a nec) ornament *hich is made of gold. The a(erage *eight of this ornament is "/; tola 0"8/;8

grams. There are aro#nd / #nits in one gulaband . ach #nit are engra(ed *ith patterns and motifs. These #nits are

attached on a red strip of fa$ric. At the $oth ends, $#tton and a $#tton hole are pro(ided to help the *earer fasten the

 gulaband aro#nd the nec).

 %ansuli or  suta&as 1 inch thic) to*ards the front and its thic)ness decreased to*ards the $ac) of the nec). !ts

*eight (aries from .6 )g to 1.6)g.

 Kaldar  mala *as the nec)lace made *ith the sil(er coins #sed in 1+18. no$s *ere =oined on the coins and then

 =oined *ith the help of thread. Some time pearl *as also #sed in $et*een.

>ther than this people #sed to *ear nec)lace made *ith different stone or pearls.

 $happaya *as a nec) ornament made of gold. !t *as long in length and ha(ing pendent at the middle. At the corner 

colo#red $eads *ere #sed. !t is li)e a'mala( *ith a single string of gold $eads.

Chandrahar *as a sli(er nec) ornament. !t *as prepared =oining 7 chains together 

)iyuni *as a sil(er safet% pin.  "a!!a *as attached *ith the help  siyuni.)angal  *as attached *ith this also. )iyuni

*as larger in sie than a safet% pin. !t *as #sed at the right side $elo* the sho#lder. ?ollo*ing ornament *ere attached tothis/

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

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P%%a B=a$$ & An"$a Ran"

)angal / A sli(er ornament meas#red from 1 to 1.6 feets in length and ; inches in *idth. !t *as started as s:#are,

ro#nd or triang#lar shaped str#ct#re, from this sli(er chains *ere =oined and again ends #p *ith s:#are, ro#nd or triang#lar 

shaped str#ct#re. !t *as ha(ing hoo) at the one end this hoo) *as attached *ith the si%#ni.

)ayundad  / !t *as made from the teeth of tiger, kasturi dear or other animal. There n#m$er (aries from t*o to ten.

These all *ere se*n together *ith the help of thread and a hoo) *as attached to it and it *as inserted in the  siyuni.

 Kanka&ari E !t *as #sed to clean the ear, made of sli(er and ; inches in length.

)ungarata E !t *as nothing $#t hairs of pig =oined together *ith thin sli(er sheet. !t *as #sed to clean the d#st of 

the ear. !t *as )ept close to the small children as the% feel that  sunggarata *o#ld )eep a*a% the e(il spirit and *or) as the

safe g#ard to the children.

Chimti/ A sil(er pin.

 *aantka!acha+ !t *as similar to needle #sed to clean the tooth. !t *as also made of sil(er.

 Bulaak  *as *orn on the mid portion of the nose. !ts shape *as li)e leaf.

 Nath *as the gold ornament *orn on the nose. !t *as a circle made of gold *ire and colo#red $ead *ere in that.

arlier time Rongpa *omen #sed to *ear these nath in their ro#te life. This nath *as onl% *orn $% the married *omen, not

 $% the *ido*. Murki *as ear ornament. !t *as ha(ing the shape li)e $oat and made of gold.

 Murkali *as li)e ro#nd shape ear ring $#t it *as *orn a$o(e from the main ear ring there n#m$er (ar% from " to

<. !t *as larger than sie as compared to murki.

 Bindibeeda *as sil(er ornament *orn on the forehead. !t *as ha(ing pendent at the middle, in *hich pict#re of 

god or flo*er *as engra(ed. Chains *ith the hoo)s *ere attached to it so that it co#ld $e *orn on the fore head.

)is#ool &as a head ornament *hich is made o#t of sil(er. !ts shape *as li)eof a flo*er. !t *as attached at the

middle of the $#n, made $% sec#reing the hair at one point. xcept )is#ul, $aneeir  0chain *ere also *orn on the head

 $%female of Rongpa comm#nit%.

 Mangteeka+ !t *as *orn o(er forehead, fastened on the hairs *ith chain.

  F"+. : Pontha F"+. 6: Paunchi F"+. 9: Nangcha

I*@a)$ Fa)$% (JCC!: 2-;; NAAS Ra$"n: -1

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A Ca#. S$+' %n $=. Ta"$"%na C%#$+*.# % Rongpa T">. % U$$aa?=an ;

  F"+. : Pati F"+. ;: Gulaband F"+. 7: Hansuli % sutawas

  F"+. : Kaldar mala F"+. 10: Jhappaya  F"+. 11: Siyuni 

 

F"+. 12: Sayundad   F"+. 1: ulaa! F"+. 16: Nath

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

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7 P%%a B=a$$ & An"$a Ran"

F

F"+. 19: "angtee!a

0!mage co#rtes% FDigital doc#ment oncost#mes of  Rongpa bhotiya Garima Pah*a Shafi:#e Ahmed.

FFttarakhand ki an+ati A $oo) $% Dr 'eena)shi 5ana

Ma. C%#$+*. % Rongpa T">.

U@@. a*.n$

 Sayattu #oat  % Sheed #oat 

Fa>") C=aa)$."#$")

!t *as *hite colo#red *oollen garment *orn on to the #pper $od% part $% the male of this tri$e. 9iteral meaning

of sheed *as *hite. This *hite colo#red coat *as also the s%m$ol of peace. ?a$ric foe the coat *as *ea(ed $% the tri$al

 people itself, mostl% t*ill *ea(e *as o$ser(ed. &o d%eing or printing *as done on the fa$ric

C%n#$+)$"%na D.$a"#

This garment *as *ore $% the male  Rongpathis d#ring the an% c#lt#ral acti(it%. !t *as hip/length tailored coat.

The &ehr# collar, three front *elt poc)ets and side slits characterie the f#nctional st%ling. !t *as front open and $#tton

#sed as fasteners. 'edi#m sied *hite colo#red $#ttons *ere #sed in the garment. Slits *ere o$ser(ed at $oth the sides of 

the sheed  coat. 9ining *as attached at the inner side of the garment *hich pro(ides stiffness as *ell as *armth to the

*earer.

 $harang 

Fa>") C=aa)$."#$") an C%n#$+)$"%na D.$a"#

 *harang  *as li)e a ro$e, a loose/fitted o#ter most garment the #pper garment, also called as chola. !t *as *ea(ed

 $% #sing *oollen %arn in the plain or sometime in t*ill *ea(e. !t *as *ea(ed in $lac) and *hite colo#rs.

!t *as (er% loose and f#ll length garment #sed as the #pper most garments and *orn at the time of cold to protect

the $od%. !t *as open/fronted go*n closed *ith a *hite fa$ric *hich *as tied o(er it. 9a%ering material *as stitched inside

the garment *hich *ere #s#all% *oollen fa$ric pieces.

 "ir%ai 

Fa>") )=aa)$."#$") an C%n#$+)$"%na .$a"#

!t *as front open, )nee length, f#ll slee(ed #pper garment called mirai. !t *as made of khaddar . !t *as do#$le

 $reasted at the front and fastened *ith lace at the side. Slits *ere fo#nd at the $oth the sides in this and nec) line *as )ept

I*@a)$ Fa)$% (JCC!: 2-;; NAAS Ra$"n: -1

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A Ca#. S$+' %n $=. Ta"$"%na C%#$+*.# % Rongpa T">. % U$$aa?=an

lo* from $oth front and $ac) d#e to the climatic conditions of the region.

L%. a*.n$

 Re&darpa%ama an Janguli 

Fa>") C=aa)$."#$") an C%n#$+)$"%na D.$a"#

 Re!dar paama *as a simple *hite colo#red chudidaar paama made of plain *ea(ed m#slin cloth.

 $anguli  *as made $% *ea(ing the *oollen %arn in to the fa$ric from that simple  paama *as made. !t *as also plain

*ea(ed and *hite in colo#r 

Wa@

)uti kapda as the name s#ggests that a simple cotton fa$ric #s#all% *hite in colo#r. !t *as meas#red 7/18 hands.

This *as #sed to *rap aro#nd the *aist o(er the mirai. This fa$ric *as #sed to safe the mone% or an% other things.

H.a .a

-opi  *as a head gear. !t *as made $% the people themsel(es #sing *oollen thread. -opi *as made $% #sing

)nitting $% rongpa female.

F"+. 1

J...".#

arlier men of this tri$e #sed to *ere murki, golden ring in their ears. These are not in fashion no*. 'en also

*ear a thic) and hallo* $racelet in their one hand.

-"a#.$-+#  ."$%/"a#.$-+#

8/20/2019 8. IJHSS - A Case Study on the Traditional Costumes of Rongpa Tribe of Uttarakhand - Pooja Bhatt - OPaid

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;0 P%%a B=a$$ & An"$a Ran"

 %asuli *as also *orn $% the rongpa male.

F%%$ W.a

Chapyol or ba!accha *ere also #sed $% the male of this tri$e. >ther than this cham !ada, the leather shoes *ere

#sed $% the male of this tri$e. B#t these leather shoes *ere onl% #sed $% the people *ith high economic stat#s. The%

 $ro#ght these shoes from the Ti$et.

 Nakyaal uta *as the raisthani raput  st%le shoes. The% *ere pointed from the front. Some time em$roider% *as

also done in those shoes.

CONCLUSIONS

!t is an attempt at doc#menting a c#lt#rall% rich cost#me of an !ndian Tri$e *hich holds significance in the

timeline of !ndian Clothing. There is a drastic change in the traditional cost#me of  Rongpa comm#nit%. -ith the

de(elopment of technolog%, people ha(e also started adapting according to the en(ironment.  Rongpa comm#nit% li(es in a

(er% extreme climatic condition. So their cost#me has f#nctionalit% element also *ith aesthetic element.

REFERENCES

1. Histor% Tradition Rongpa comm#nit%. 5etri(ed from httpnitimana.com on 1 April "816.

". Pah*a, G. and Ahmed, S. 0"811. Doc#ment on rongapa cost#mes. PGDPD Apparel Design and 'erchandising

0&ational !nstit#teof Design, !ndia.

;. 5ana, '. 0"81;Uttara)hand )i =an =ati chocha/marcha.(insar p#$lishing compan%, dehrad#n, !ndia.pp/;<7

I*@a)$ Fa)$% (JCC!: 2-;; NAAS Ra$"n: -1