Cloud Forest 456-7Iquitos & around 482-5Lago Sandoval 450Manu Wildlife Center & around
458-9Parque Nacional Manu 457-8Puerto Bermúdez 463Puerto Maldonado 442-3Río Alto Madre de Dios 457Río Madre de Dios 447-50Río Tambopata 451-3Yarinacocha 468-9
Amazon river cruises 176, 181
American Popular Revolutionary Alliance (APRA) 499, 500
Cajatambo 386Callejón de Conchucos 396-402Camaná 128-9Campo Santo 389Cañete 103Cañón del Colca 14, 158-64, 14Cañón del Cotahuasi 165-6Cañón del Pato 391-2Canta 301Canyon Country 45, 156-66, 138
Ayacucho 294Basilica Menor Catedral 315Casa-Capilla de San Martin de
Porres 57Catedral de Puno 171Catedral Santa Catalina 130Cathedral (Ayacucho) 292-3Cathedral (Chiclayo) 332Cathedral de Cajamarca 408
000 Map pages000 Photo pages
566
INDEX C
-E
churches & cathedrals continuedCathedral (Huancavelica) 287Cathedral (Piura) 344Cathedral (Tarma) 273Copacabana Cathedral 188Iglesia Colonial de Chinchero 241Iglesia de Jesús María 196-7Iglesia de la Compañía 142-3Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús
197, 10Iglesia de La Merced (Concepción)
277Iglesia de La Merced (Ica) 117Iglesia de la Merced (Lima) 57Iglesia de la Merced (Trujillo) 316Iglesia de las Nazarenas 57-9Iglesia de San Agustín (Lima) 59Iglesia de San Agustín (Trujillo) 317Iglesia de San Blas 205Iglesia de San Francisco
(Arequipa) 144Iglesia de San Francisco
(Cajamarca) 408Iglesia de San Francisco (Ica) 117 Iglesia de San Pedro
(Andahauylillas) 259Iglesia de San Pedro (Lima) 59Iglesia de Santiago Apostol 170Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Cuzco)
206Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Lima)
57Iglesia del Carmen 316Iglesia del Triunfo 196-7Iglesia San Francisco (Cuzco) 203Iglesia San Francisco (Huánuco)
303Iglesia San Juan Bautista (Sibayo)
159Iglesia San Juan Bautista
(Yanahuara) 145Iglesia y Monasterio de Santa
Catalina 202-3La Capilla 235La Catedral (Arequipa) 142La Catedral (Cuzco) 196-7La Catedral de Lima 55-7Nuestra Señora de la Asunción 187San Juan de Letrán 187San Pedro 187Santuario de El Señor de Luren 117Santuario de la Virgen del Socorro
Ddangers, see safetyde Almagro, Diego 495, 496de Piérola, Nicolás 498, 499de San Martín, José 496, 497de Toledo, Francisco 497deforestation 527-8dengue fever 551-2disabilities, travelers with 540discount cards 532diving 72drinks 509-10, see also piscodriver’s licenses 549driving, see car traveldune buggies 120
Eearthquakes 365, 389Echenique, Alfredo Bryce 521
567IN
DEX E-Heconomy 488-9, 506El Bendito 361El Carmen District 107El Chaco 111-15El Circuito Mágico del Agua 63El Misti 157-9El Señor de Muruhuay 299El Valle de los Volcanes 165electricity 532embassies 532-3emergencies 17, see also individual
Alacitas 173Alasitas Festival 188Año Nuevo 280August 15 148Carnaval (Cajamarca) 21, 409Carnaval (Huanchaco) 328Carnival (Huaraz) 370Crucifix Vigil 213Día de los Reyes Magos 243El Festival Internacional de la
Primavera 317-18El Señor de la Soledad 370El Señor de los Milagros 73El Señor de los Temblores 213Epiphany 173Feast of Lima 73Feast of Santa Rosa de Lima 73Feast of St James 173Festival del Mar 328Fiesta de la Marinera 317Fiesta de la Vendimia 21, 118Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria
188Fiesta de la Virgen de Chapi 148Fiesta de San Juan 173Fiesta de Yahuar 267Inti Raymi 213La Virgen de la Candelaria 172-3La Virgen del Carmen 235Las Cruces 173Noche en Blanco 18Our Lady of Mercy 173Puno Week 173Q’oyoriti 22, 213, 266San Juan 475
Santuranticuy Artisan Crafts Fair 213-14
Selvámanos 18, 437, 462Semana Santa (Arequipa) 22, 148Semana Santa (Ayacucho) 12, 21,
294, 12Señor de Choquechilca 243Verano Negro 21Virgen del Carmen 264
Hhairless dogs 523handicrafts, see craftshang gliding 367Haya de la Torre, Victor Raúl 498, 499healers (curanderos) 346health 177, 551-3
Herzog, Werner 479hiking, see trekkinghistoric buildings
Azulejos 474Casa Aliaga 59-60Casa de Fierro 473-4Casa de la Emancipación 315-16Casa de la Riva 60Casa de Moral 144Casa de Oquendo 60-1Casa de Pilatos 61Casa de Ricardo Palma 67Casa de Riva-Aguero 61Casa de Urquiaga 313-15Casa del Corregidor 171Casa Ganoza Chopitea 317Casa Ricketts 144Casona Orbegoso 316El Complejo de Belén 407-8La Mansión del Fundador 144Lampa Municipalidad 170Palacia Torre Tagle 59Palacio Arzobispal 55Palacio de Gobierno 55Palacio Iturregui 315
history 490-5041929-75 500 1980-5 500-3 Atahualpa period 495Chachapoyas culture 418, 515Chavín culture 397, 491-2, 512-13colonial period 496-7early settlers 490-1Inca period 494-5independence 497-8indigenismo movement 499-500New Republic 498pre-Columbian history 512-16regional kingdoms 494religious 492Spanish invasion 495-6War of the Pacific 498-9Wari period 493
hitchhiking 549hoatzin 453holidays 534Honda-Ulta 384Horno Colonial San Francisco 235horseback riding 35
Chavín de Huántar 398Cuzco 209Huaraz 367Urubamba 238
hot springs, see thermal bathsHuaca Prieta people 326Huacachina 120-1Hualca Hualca 158, 163Huancabamba 346
Iquitos 471-81, 472accommodations 475-7activities 474-5drinking & entertainment 478emergencies 479festivals & events 475food 477-8history 471-3internet access 479-80medical services 480shopping 478-9sights 473-4tourist information 480-1tours & guides 482travel to/from 481travel within 481
Isla Amantaní 183-4Isla de Aves 360Isla de la Luna 190-1Isla Hueso de Ballena 360Isla Suasi 184Isla Taquile 182-3Isla Ticonata 185Islas Ballestas 13, 112, 13Islas del Sol 190-1Islas Uros 181-2Itahuanía 456itineraries 24-9, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29
Cuzco 202Lima 55Rio Mantaro Valley 284Sacred Valley 202
Ivochote 263-4
JJalca Grande (La Jalca) 423Jauja 276-7Jirón de la Unión 61Juanita the Ice Maiden 140Juli 187Juliaca 168-9jungle lodges, see Amazon lodgesjungle travel 437Junín 300-1
Kkayaking 33-4, 187Kinski, Klaus 479kitesurfing 351Kuélap 12, 424-5, 12
LLa Jalca (Jalca Grande) 423La Merced 460-1La Oroya 272La Unión 304-5Lago de Junín 300-1
66-7Points West 65-7Rímac 63-4San Isidro 65-7, 75-7, 83-4, 89-90,
76-7shopping 92-3sights 51, 54-71tickets 91tourist information 95tours & guides 72-3travel agencies 95-6travel seasons 50travel to/from 96-8travel within 98-9walking tours 56, 56west Lima 69-71, 75
Limatambo 265literature 521Llachón 185Llamac 395-6Llulluchupampa 257Lord of Sipán 340Los Baños del Inca 413-14Los Cedros-Alpamayo 384Lunahuaná 105-6Luquina Chico 187
MMachu Picchu 6, 246, 250-5, 7, 252-3Madrigal 160, 163malaria 552Malata 164Mallu 166Manco Inca 496Máncora 350-5Manu area 453-9Manu Wildlife Center 458-9maps 535-7Maras 241-2Marcahuasi 272Mariátegui, José Carlos 499markets
El Molino 227Huancayo 283, 285Jirón José Olaya 364Mercado de Artesania 234Mercado de Chinchero 241Mercado Modelo 332Mercado Modelo de Huanchac 227Mercado San Pedro 227
marvelous spatuletail 525
Matsiguenka people 467, 519measures 533medical services 551, see also
individual locationsmining 300, 405Mirador de Carmen Alto 293Mirador de los Volcanes 157Mirador de Retaqeñua 364Mirador Natural de Asiru Patjata 188Miraflores 67-8, 77-80, 84-8, 90, 66-7Mistura 51mobile phones 17, 539Moche
culture 514, 492people 325, 326, 339-40, 493
Mollendo 129-30monasteries
Monasterio de la Recoleta 143-4Monasterio de San Francisco 57Monasterio de Santa Catalina
139-40money 16, 17, 535-7Monterrey 387Moquegua 130-1Moray 241-2motorcycle travel 549mountain biking 34, see also cycling
mountaineering 31-3Arequipa 145Cordilleras 377-9, 32Huaraz 364Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada
Blanca 157-8Semana de Andinismo 370tours & guides 147
Movimiento Revolucionario Túpac Amaru (MRTA) 501
Moyobamba 428-30mud baths 351museums & galleries
Asociación Museo del Automóvil 65Bruning Museum 341Casa Grau 344Casa Museo Basadre 132Casa-Hacienda San José 107Casona Editora Peru 144Centro Cultural de la Unica 117Centro de Interpretación 112Choco Museo (Cuzco) 197 Choco Museo (Lima) 67Coca Museum 171Convento de los Descalzos 64Fundación Museo Amano 67Galeria Lucia de la Puente 69
000 Map pages000 Photo pages
570
INDEX M
-P
museums & galleries continuedInstituto Nacional de Cultura 286Instituto Nacional de Cultura
Museo 416Lima 14, 51, 14Monasterio de Santa Catalina
139-40Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres 293Museo Andrés del Castillo 62Museo Arqueológico de la Universi-
dad Católica de Santa María 144Museo Arqueológico Hipólito
Unanue 293Museo Banco Central de Reserva
del Perú 61Museo Carlos Dreyer 171Museo Cassinelli 317Museo Contisuyo 130Museo de Arqueología 315Museo de Arqueológico & Et-
nografía 408Museo de Arte de Lima 63Museo de Arte Italiano 63Museo de Arte Popular
(Ayacucho) 293Museo de Arte Popular (Cuzco)
205 Museo de Arte Precolombino
200-2Museo de Arte Religioso 203-5Museo de Arte Virreinal de Santa
Teresa 144Museo de Historia Natural (Cuzco)
202Museo de Historia Natural (Lima)
63Museo de la Cultura Peruana 62-3Museo de la Inquisición 61Museo de la Memoria 293Museo de la Nación 64-5Museo de la Univesidad Nacional
de San Agustin (UNAS) 144Museo de Oro del Perú 65Museo de Plantas Sagradas, Mági-
cas y Medicinales 197-200Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez
Ballón 246Museo de Sitio Sipán 340Museo de Zela 132Museo de Zoología 317Museo del Pisco 226Museo del Sitio 241Museo del Sitio de Qorikancha 206Museo Didáctico Antonini 123Museo Enrico Poli Bianchi 67
Museo Ferroviario & El Parque de la Locomotora 132
Museo Histórico Municipal 144Museo Histórico Regional (Cuzco)
203Museo Histórico Regional (Tacna)
132Museo Huacas de Moche 325Museo Inka 202Museo Julio C Tello 18Museo Kampac 170Museo Larco 65Museo Leimebamba 425Museo Lítico Pucará 170Museo Maria Reiche 123Museo Municipal de Arte
Contemporáneo 203Museo Municipal de Sitio 131Museo Municipal Vicus 344Museo Nacional de Antropología,
Arqueología e Historía del Perú 65
Museo Nacional de Chavín 397Museo Nacional Sicán 341Museo Pedro de Osma 68-9Museo Postal y Filatélico 61Museo Quijote 206Museo Regional de Ancash 364Museo Regional de Ica 115-16Museo Rito Andinos 259Museo Salesiano 277Museo Santuarios Andinos 140Museo Taurino 63-4Museo Taypi 188Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán
340Paracas History Museum 112
music 107, 174, 488, 520música criolla 520
NNahua people 519National Environmental Council 528national parks & reserves 305,
527, see also parks & gardens, sanctuaries
Parque Nacional Bahuaga-Sonene 451
Parque Nacional Cerros de Amotape 361
Parque Nacional Huascarán 379-84Parque Nacional Manu 8, 457-8, 9Parque Nacional Yanachaga-
Chemillén 462Reserva de Biosfera del Noroeste
361Reserva Ecológica Chaparrí 341-2Reserva Nacional de Paracas
112-14, 113
Reserva Nacional Junín 301Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria
15, 471, 15Reserva Nacional Pampas Galeras
125Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada
Blanca 157-8Reserva Nacional Tambopata 451Reserva Nor Yauyos-Cochas 276
Bosque El Olivar 67Jardín Botanico 235Parque de la Cultura 63Parque de la Identidad Huanca 279Parque de la Muralla 61Parque de Las Leyendas 69-70Paseo de las Musas 332-3Waqanki Orchid Center 429
Paso de Patopampa 157-60passports 543Patabamba 238Patahuasi 157Paucartambo 264Pedro Ruíz 427-8Pevas 485-6phone cards 539Pilcopata 456Pinchollo 163Piquillacta 258-9Pisac 234-7, 236pisco 19, 509Pisco (town) 108-11, 109Piura 343-9, 342Pizzaro, Francisco 490, 495-6planetariums 123, 196planning, see also individual regions
activities 21-3, 30-5budgeting 16calendar of events 21-3children, travel with 41-3internet resources 17, 533itineraries 24-9, 55, 202, 284, 24,
Plaza de Armas (Arequipa) 140-2Plaza de Armas (Ayacucho) 292Plaza de Armas (Cuzco) 196Plaza de Armas (Lima) 54-5Plaza de Armas (Moquegua) 130Plaza de Armas (Pisco) 108Plaza de Armas (Tacna) 132Plaza de Armas (Trujillo) 313-15Plaza Moré 293Plaza San Martin 61-2
Poma de Ayala, Guamán 495, 498
Pomabamba 401Pomata 187-8Pongo de Mainique 263population 488, 505Portachuelo de Huayhuash 386postal services 535, 537Prado, Mariano 498pre-Columbian
history 512-16peoples 326-7
public holidays 534Pucallpa 463-7, 464Pucará 170Pucusana 103Puentes de los Suspiros 68Puerto Bermúdez 463Puerto Callao 468Puerto Capitania 438-40Puerto Chicama 331Puerto Malabrigo 331Puerto Maldonado 438-46, 440, 448
Puerto Pizarro 360-1Puno 171-9, 172Punta Hermosa 100Punta Rocas 100Punta Sal 355Punta Unión Pass 380Punta Winchus 392Punta Yaucha 386Punto Arquillo 113Putucusi 246Puya raimondii 298, 526
QQ’oyoriti 22, 213, 266Quebrada Huarípampa 380Quebrada Llanganuco 382Quebrada Raincuray 382Quebrada Santa Cruz 380Quechua people 518-19Quilcayhuanca Valley 383Quillabamba 262-3Quince Mil 264Quinua 298
Rrafting, see river runningrainforests 526Raqchi 259Recuay 394refuges 388refunds 536-7religion 489, 492, 506religious sites 330reserves, see national parks &
reserves, parks & gardens, sanctuaries
Río Apurímac 208Río Heath 451Río Madre de Dios 447-50Río Mantaro Valley 275-85Río Santa Teresa 208Río Tambopata 208-9, 451-3Río Urubamba 208river cruises 474-5river running 33-4, 32
Salinas 240salt lakes 158, 240Salvación 456San Bartolo 100San Blas 205, 217-20, 223-4San Juan de Chuccho 164San Pedro de Cajas 299-300San Pedro de Casta 272San Pedro plant 213San Ramón 460-1Sánchez Cerro, Colonel Luis 500sanctuaries, see also national parks
& reservesSantuario Histórico Bosque de
Pomac 343Santuario Histórico Chacamarca
300Santuario Histórico Pampas de
Ayacucho 298Santuario Nacional Ampay 266Santuario Nacional Huayllay 301Santuario Nacional Lagunas de
Mejía 129Santuario Nacional los Manglares
de Tumbes 361sandboarding 34, 120Santa Clara 482Santa Maria 260Santa Rosa de Ocopa 277Santa Teresa 260-2Santo Tomás 482Satipo 461-2scuba diving 35Sechín Alto 310Sechuran fox 525Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path)
292, 489, 500, 501, 502Shintuya 456Shipibo people 467, 519shopping 539, see also individual
locationsshowers 531Sibayo 159Sicán people 327, 341, 342, 494Sicuani 259Sillustani 179Sipán 339-40Sipia Waterfall 166Siulá Grande 394skiing 366-7soccer 506solo travelers 539South American Explorers Club 96south coast 45, 102-36, 104
train travel 550Transoceanic Highway 18, 441travel to/from Lima 96-8travel to/from Peru 543-6travel within Lima 98-9travel within Peru 546-50trekking 19
Amazon 160Arequipa 145Cabanaconde 163Cañón del Colca 164Caraz 392Chachapoyas 416-17Chavín de Huántar 398Chivay 160Cordillera Blanca 8, 379-84, 8Cordillera Huayhuash 384-6,
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562
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Otto, Alice Pajard, Nilla Palmer, Mateusz Papla, Matt Pepe, Diane Perlman, Ruth Anne Phillips, Barbara Prescott, Lauren Radebaugh, Victor Radulescu, Jonathan Rae, Jorge Ore Rebatta, Eder Reis, Marissa Rensen, Mohammad Husam Rezek, Liz Rha, Adam Rheingans, Ron Richardson, Moritz Riess, Philipp Ringgenberg, Ignacio Riveira, Alexandre Robert, Federico Rodrigo, Maïté Rolin, Bram Rouges, Solen Roussel, Darren Rubbo, Wendy Rushbrooke, Andrea Saul, Gianna U Schorno, Chip Scialfa, Max Seelhofer, Cathy Shumaker, Elizabeth Shu-maker, Eva-Carol Simpson, Francois Sonnet, Veronika Stalz, Eliki Stathakopoulos, Martijn Steijn, Dave Stokes, Lionel Stoller, Jesus Te-jera, Richard Thiel, Jemma Thornes, Jessica Thrall, Rolf & Sanne Tijsma, Marie Timmer-mans, Jaime Quiroz Tirado, Anne Tonkin, Maksim Turlov, Amy Uccello, Shirley Van Der Griendt, Bert Vanderfe, Annie Vanslam-brouk, Jan Verendel, Pierre Verkerk, Marga-ret Vile, Felix Wagner, Susan Waldock, Leora Walter, Milo Wende, Wayo Whilar, Mirjam Wildeboer, Kristina Willas, Jana Wille, Rachel Wright, Shellene Wyrick, Kai Xue, Hillary Yacobucci, Jenipher Young-Hall, Jan Zapal, Allen Zhang, Roland Zimmermann.
AUTHOR THANKSCarolyn McCarthyMany thanks go out to all the Peruvian chefs and street vendors who played a key role in my contentment. I am also grateful for the friendship, advice and assistance of Daniel Fernandez Davila, Milton, Michael and Illa Liendo, Arturo Rojas, Jorge Riveros-Cayo, Louise Norton, Edgar in Puno, Elizabeth Shumaker, Marco Palomino, John Leivers and Paolo Greer. To my hardworking co-authors, a chilled pisco sour for starters.
Carolina A MirandaThanks to my husband, who tolerates my wandering (and all my related stomach ill-nesses), and also to Arturo Rojas, who always teaches me something new about Peruvian food. I also wish to thank Juan Cincunegui, the patient librarian at the Monastery of San-to Domingo in Cuzco, for turning me on to so
many wonderful books. And to the people of Peru, who are always gracious and generous, thank you! Y que!/!Viva el Perú Carajo!
Kevin RaubSpecial thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who didn’t see me much at all in 2012. At Lonely Planet, Kathleen Munnelly, as always! On the road, Carolyn McCarthy, Carolina Miranda, Camille Ulmer and all at SAE, Moche Tours, Julio and Mauro Olaza, Chris Benway, Kristof Van Den Bussche, Bruni Frampton, Dr John Rick, Charlie Good, Alberto Cafferata, Daniel Fernandez-Davila, Fidel Elera, Lluis Dalmau, Maya Ortiz, and Susan van der Wielen.
Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, tourist-information volunteers, restaurateurs, pan-pipe blowers, weather forecasters, novoandina chefs and innocent bystanders who helped me during my research. Thanks especially to guide and mountaineer, Carlos Zárate, for his time and interesting insights in Arequipa and Colca Canyon.
Luke WatersonGracias to all the boat captains and colec-tivo/combi drivers, who, apart from (gener-ally) making arduous Andean and Amazonian trips possible and even enjoyable, rarely stopped smiling or recommending incred-ible places for me to explore. Ryse, you’re next: thanks for saving me from drowning! Special acknowledgement is also due to my wonderful parents who tolerated me during write-up, to Huancayo’s Lucho Hurtado for the umpteenth time, to Pauline in Ayacucho, to Gerson in Puerto Maldonado and Bill and Marcel in Iquitos.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.
This BookThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Peru guidebook was researched and written by Carolyn McCarthy, Carolina A Miranda, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury and Luke Waterson. The previous edition was writ-ten by Carolina A Miranda and Luke Waterson, along with Aimée Dowl, Katy Shorthouse and Beth Williams. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:Commissioning Editors Kathleen Munnelly, Catherine Craddock-Carrillo
Coordinating Editors Justin Flynn, Ross TaylorCoordinating Cartographer Andy RojasCoordinating Layout Designer Carol JacksonManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Bruce EvansSenior Editor Andi JonesManaging Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Alison LyallManaging Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Kate Evans, Carly Hall, Helen Koehne, Anne Mulvaney, Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards
Assisting Cartographers Valeska Cañas, Jacqueline Nguyen, Jolyon PhilcoxCover Research Naomi ParkerInternal Image Research Kylie McLaughlinIllustrator Michael Weldon Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic
Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, James Hardy, Bella Li, Annelies Mertens, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, Raphael Richards, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker
