A Brief History of Winchester

The Iron AgeThe earliest settlement we know of on the site of Winchester dates from the Iron Age. There isan enclosure (a set of ditches and banks built to defend a patch of ground) on the west of the riverItchen at a place called Oram’s Arbour dating from around 600 BC to 300 BC. There is also ahill fort on the top of St Catharine’s Hill on the east side of the river Itchen which dates fromaround 700 BC to 100 BC. In the Iron Age the people dug ditches and built up banks(collectively known as earthworks) to protect themselves from their enemies. At this time peopletravelled around Britain even though it was very slow and difficult to get from place to place.There are ancient “trackways” that have been identified by archaeologists and one east–westroute crossed the river Itchen near Oram’s Arbour where the river, although wide, was shallowenough for people to wade across. The river split into two channels here and flowed around anisland in the middle of a marshy area. There was also a north–south route that crossed the east–west routeway at Winchester which meant that many people came through on their journeys toother places. During the late Iron Age people from an area on the continent of Europe known as“Belgae” settled in the Winchester area.

View of Winchester from St Catharine’s Hill – Notice how the cathedral dominates the area.

On top of St Catharine’s Hill is amizmaze, which is a southern Englandterm for a rare type of maze - the onlyother surviving example being found atBraemore. In this example, the path is inthe gully. The maze was apparently cut byan errant schoolboy from WinchesterCollege kept back over his vacation.

Iron Age earthworks or defences at St Catharine’s Hill

Looking towards St Catharine’s Hill summit and SSW

The RomansThe Romans invaded Britain under Caesar in AD 43. They came to Winchester, which theynamed Venta Belgarum. Winchester was one of the first Roman settlements in Britain and wasoccupied from about AD 50. The Romans built several straight roads to link Winchester withother Roman settlements and several of these are visible on maps and images of the region.

At this time, the site of Venta Belgarum was the lowest bridging point on the River Itchen (thepoint closest to the sea where it is possible to cross a river). The Romans diverted the river tomake sure that the crossing point was bridged effectively. They were skilled in engineering andaltered the river flood plain; not only diverting the River Itchen further to the east, but alsodraining the land so that the town could be extended eastwards, allowing them to build over theformer marsh and the island. This bridging point meant that a lot of traffic and trade passedthrough the town. The Romans built strong walls to defend the town and within this the streetswere laid out on a regular grid pattern – the High Street we see today is on the same line as theoriginal Roman street. Venta Belgarum became an important regional administrative centre (acivitas) and a thriving town with major buildings including shops, offices and a basilica (a publicmeeting house where town business took place).

This bridge is very near the point of the original bridge built over the Itchen at the Eastgate of thecity by Swithun, made Bishop of Winchester in 852. The only surviving section of Roman citywall can be seen nearby.

Saxon Times (c. AD 600–800) – The “Dark Ages”The Roman occupation of Britain ended in AD 410. After the army left the country it may bethat Winchester was deserted for a time, although archaeological evidence suggests that it mighthave continued as some kind of centre of authority. Without the Roman army to keep order, andthe well ordered Roman system, things probably became fairly disorganised and the localsconcentrated on farming so that they had enough to live on – the town life as it had flourished inthe Roman era was no longer appropriate. At this time a new group of people crossed the seafrom different parts of mainland Europe and began to settle in Britain. One of these groups were

the West Saxons who moved into the area around Winchester which became known as“Wessex”. The Saxons brought with them their own way of doing things and these were soonadopted by the local people who had continued to live in the area after the Romans left. Overseveral hundreds of years the Saxons grew in power and Winchester (then known as“Wintanceaster”) once more became an important town and a major centre of power. TheSaxons were not Christians but missionaries visited and gradually Christianity became the majorreligion – the first church at Winchester was built by the Saxons around AD 650, known as the“Old Minster”. The Saxon town was built between AD 700–800, laid out on a grid systemsimilar to the Roman pattern (although not exactly the same as the Roman layout). This Saxongrid is still visible in the street pattern in the centre of Winchester today.

King Alfred the Great (reigned 871–899) is associated with Winchester, and made the town hiscapital, although he may only have visited it once – in 896. The statue at the east end of the HighStreet, celebrating King Alfred’s millennium, was put up in 1901 – the sculptor was called HamoThornycroft.

The Medieval Period

After King William and his Normans invaded in 1066 (the Battle of Hastings), Saxon Winchesterwas taken over by the invaders. There were many changes to the town. More buildings were putup and the Old Minster (dating from the 7th century) was completely rebuilt to make a muchlarger Cathedral (started around 1070).

Winchester Cathedral and grounds

A much larger building (above left) needed more support and so “flying buttresses” (above right) were used tosupport the walls. One feature of many medieval towns is the close association of the Cathedral and a palace, whichwas the house where the bishop lived. Around the Cathedral there are many interesting buildings includingCheyney Court (below left), which was formerly the bishop’s court house.

.

Winchester was a very important religious centre. Not only was the cathedral a dominant building but otherchurches and centres were also found here. The almshouse of St Cross (founded by Bishop Henry de Blois in 1132)was a hospital run by monks (below)

St Cross Church viewed from St Catharine’s Hill

In Medieval times there were taxes for taking up space with a house or shop along the “King’s Highway” and sopeople began to build cellars in the houses and make the upper storeys of their houses stick out so that they hadmore space without using up more ground area. The original houses of “The Pentice” (now restored) were built inthe Medieval times. An influential Bishop known as Henry of Bois was responsible for the “Winchester Bible”which is a bible in two volumes (written out by hand and lavishly illustrated using expensive gold leaf and blue lapislazuli). Winchester School, which is still flourishing today, was also started under Henry’s patronage.

The Pentice and pedestrianised High Street

The “Butter Cross”, also called a Market Cross, City Cross or High Cross, was erected in the first part of the 15thCentury (in the 1400’s) – marking the place where the women of the town sold their butter. This is still animpressive feature of the High Street (part of it can be seen in the first photograph below). “God Begot House” (nowa pizza restaurant) was built between the time of the Black Death in 1361 and 1500. It is worth walking round to theback of God Begot House to see the timber framing and brickwork.

Note how the upper storeys protrude. Front (High Street) view of Godbegot House.

The back of Godbegot House, probably built between 1361-1500.

Tudor Era (c. 1500’s)In 1538 St Swithin’s shrine in the Cathedral was destroyed and the three monasteries of the city were closed byHenry VIII. In 1554 Mary Tudor (daughter of Henry VIII) married Philip of Spain in Winchester Cathedral.

There are many buildings in the High Street that were originally built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, for example,the Eclipse Inn, close to the City museum. Tudor buildings are recognisable by their timber frames and jettiedstructure (upper storeys stick out over the narrow streets).

Tudor timber beamed building. The closer thebeams, the older the building.

The City Museum

Georgian Era (c. 1700’s and early 1800’s)This period is named after a number of kings (whowere all Georges) who sat on the throne of Englandfrom about 1714 – George I (1714–1727), George II(1727–1760), George III (1760–1820), George IV(1820–1830), William IV (1830–1837). There aremany buildings in the High Street that wereoriginally built at this time and that have beenrestored to show what they would have looked like.Georgian architecture is easily recognisable. Thebuildings were “Palladian” after an architect calledAndre Palladio – which featured a “classical” lookwith columns and rows of large rectangular sashwindows. Bow windows were also popular. Onebuilding, which was once the Guildhall and is nowLloyds Bank, built at this time – 1713 – has animpressive clock. Queen Anne took the throne for ashort time just before this period – 1702 – andbuildings of this time are sometimes grouped into theGeorgian era.

Lloyds Bank

Victorian EraQueen Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901 – that is, for a large part of the 19th century. During this time the firstrailway was built through Winchester and this led to rapid expansion of the town and an increase in population. Inthe first official census of England and Wales conducted in 1801 there were 5826 people in Winchester. By thecensus of 1891 – nearly one hundred years later – the population had grown to 17,179. The Victorians built manyimpressive public buildings and houses in the suburbs surrounding the centre of the town.

The Guildhall

Prepared by Alison CaldwellLuckley Oakfield School