PWRT 5000Restaurant ReviewJanuary 19, 2018Mitali Colabawalla

Byblos: a Mediterranean escape hidden in Toronto's Entertainment District

Chef Stuart Cameron serves a hypnotic potion of aromas, textures, and flavors in this luxe 2-story restaurant boasting the best shareable dishes and daringly eclectic cocktail menu.

“11 Duncan Street please,” I request the cabbie as I plop myself down into the still-warm seat. The six minute drive from Union Station to the restaurant is enough time to start salivating at the thought of freshly baked Barbari and tender Lamb Ribs. Quietly nestled under a black awning, two glass doors are all that separate me from one of my most cherished eating experiences.

Welcome to Byblos. Where the food is enchanting, drinks are electrifying, and time is ample.

Arched white-brick ceilings house golden beams of geometric lights, and glass shelves arranged with traditional Turkish coffee pots and antique ceramics rest on the only-windowed wall. Black cushioned chairs and intimate, round tables fit for up-to four people hug the center of the petite, downstairs dining room, with sleek wooden tables lining the remaining walls. Looking onto the lower level, the upper lounge does offer a more casual atmosphere with larger booths, dimmer lighting and no reservation needed, but price of food remains the same.

Figure 1: Lower level

Being a regular, I know exactly what I want and I waste no time ordering my ambrosial feast for one and extravagant cocktail named The Fox, which features tequila, watermelon, coriander and cucumber—not for the faint-of-heart!

Over the course of the next two hours, Mediterranean tapas plates steaming of sublime spices parade under my nose, each one in more danger of being devoured than the next. The first bite, regardless of what it is, always takes my breath away.

Miniature pockets of smoky eggplant lay in a rich yogurt sauce sprinkled with saffron and sweet molasses in the Turkish Manti Dumplings, one of my personal favourites and a merited staple on the menu. From the wood fire comes Basturma; cured beef marries traditional Shakshouka bearing a lush tomato gravy finished with creamy mozzarella. Blackened crispy clouds bathing in a mélange of succulent duck fat and tahini sauce, speckled with fresh coriander and sesame seeds makes the Seared Cauliflower a must-have.

Figure 2: Turkish Manti Dumplings

As my attentive server clears the dishes one-by-one and the table slowly becomes visible once again, I religiously ask for the desert menu. I end my meal as I always do, with a Traditional Turkish Coffee, prepared to order in a customary cezve. Paired with the Brik Pastry Cigar, melodic honey cream in a crisp pastry brushed with fig caramel, my meal ends on the perfect note as per usual.

Figure 3: Brik Pastry Cigars and Turkish Coffee

But fair warning, Byblos’ unique dishes are coupled with a pretty price tag marking this restaurant a ‘steer-clear’ for most modest eaters. That being said, it is the perfect place to have

your first Mediterranean food adventure, and renowned chef Stuart Cameron continually introduces new dishes to her menu, offering a change for even the most faithful customers.

With food so exceptionally magical it can bring your taste buds to climax, it’s no wonder that Byblos is famed for mind-blowing moments in every single meal.