A sauces tale.pdf

8/18/2019 A sauces tale.pdf

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THE

GRUBHUB


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If you thumb through cookbooks from every imaginableculinary tradition, the variations seem infnite, and thoughthere are a million different ways to make stew or braise

or soup, the underlying structure of all these dishes is verynearly universal. Let me propose a radically simplifed

version of that structure.

Dice some aromatic plants

Saute them in some fat

Brown piece(s) of meat

Put everything in a pot

Add some water (or stock etc)Simmer, for a long time

A UniversalStructure


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The powerful role wa-ter plays within thesepots might not seem aspotent as the wild water

that carves canyons andcoastlines, but its powersare impressive even so.Water will conduct heat,evenly and efciently intoevery cranny of whateveris cooking. If that happensto be dried seeds, wa-ter will bring them back

to life. Sometimes liter-ally by inspiring them togerminate, or some-times guratively, bymaking them soft andplump enough to eat. Butwater, sufciently heated,can kill, too, dispatchingdangerous bacteria in ourfood. it will sterilize meatand detoxify plants andfungi. It will leach out saltand bitterness. water ina pot can bring togetherfar-ung taxonomic king-doms, marrying plantsand animals and fungi,so that they might acton one another swap a-vours, alter textures. Giv-en enough time and theproper amount of heat,

water will break down thtoughest bres in botplants and animals, tranforming them into foo

Given still more time, will break these foodstufdown into rich paste aneventually, into a tasty nutritious liquid: a dipersed phase of its contiuous self. But what watebreaks down it also reasembles along new line

Water will extract molcules from one ingredieand diffuse them so ththey might encounter anact on the molecules another ingredient. Breaing some chemical bondand forging new onewhich might be aromaavours, or nutrients. In pot, water is the mediuof avour as well as heaallowing spices and otheseasoning’s to get arounand make their presencfelt. It also dilutes the efect of the most pungespices, like peppers maing them more amenablGiven heat and time watesoftens, blends, balanceharmonizes, and marrie


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Method:

To begin add the garlic and ginger to a blenderwith a splash of water and blitz to a smooth

ne paste. Now set aside. Heat the oil in a

large sauce pan over medium heat. Add the

onions and fry for 25 minutes until they begin

to change colour and go brown. Stir a few

times through cooking making sure it doesn’t

stick to the bottom of the pan. Don’t rush this

as the colour of the onions adds more avour

to the curry and also thickens the base gravy.Add the whole spices and fry for a further minute.

Add the tomatoes and the tomato puree and

stir well. Continue to soften the tomatoes for 4

minutes making sure to mash them slightly with

the back of the spoon. Add the garlic

and ginger paste and stir well cooking out the

raw avours for a couple of minutes. Add the

coriander, chilli and turmeric powder and fry

for a few seconds. Now add the lamb chunks,

stir well coating the pieces with the spices and

sealing the lamb for 10 minutes. Add water

and bring to a boil. Season to taste. Simmer

on a low heat with the lid on for 50 minutes

stirring half way through cooking.


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B e

a t T h e

B l o a t

Fermented foods are foodthat have been through aprocess of lactofermentatioin which natural bacteria feon the sugar and starch in

the food creating lactic aciThis process preserves thefood, and creates beneciaenzymes, b-vitamins, Omega-3 fatty acids, and varioustrains of probiotics. Theyhave the unique ability toease digestive discomfortrelated to having either toomuch or too little stomach

acid. Unfortunately, over thpast century many probiotfoods have fallen from fa-vour due to changes in theway we now preserve foodparticularly vegetables. Sathese time-honored traditiofoods have been largely loin our society. When fresh

vegetables weren’t as readily available throughout theyear, they were often pre-served through fermentati


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The Cold Fire

One of the most desirable and earliestferments, is the fermentation of alcoholicbeverages. People have been questing foralcohol since the moment they stumbled

apon it. We plundered nature for sources ofsugar we could turn into alcohol. Yeasts

feed off these sugars, Which in turn

ferments. There are ways of doing it still

commonly used in the Amazon that are

ingenious. It begins by taking a starchy

rooted called yucca, and chewing it. This

is done collectively then spat into a vat. To

create the drink Masato.


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In our saliva there are

enzymes that break starches

down into sugar. So if saliva

is not used the yucca will

not mature well as it cannot

ferment. Fermentation was

seen as a cold re which can

transform things from one

state into another.

There is a beer before bread theory which has been suggested by anthro-

pologists. That the real reason for settling down and growing grain was

motivated by the desire of having ferment-able crops, as collecting grainin the wild is a really pain staking process.


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KIMCHI


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Napa cabbage - 1 (2-pound)

Kosher salt - 1/2 cup

Cold water - About 12 cups

Daikon radish, peeled and cut into

2-inch matchsticks - 8 ounces

4 medium scallions, ends trimmed,

cut into 1-inch pieces (use all parts)

Korean red pepper powder - 1/3 cup

Fish sauce - 1/4 cup

Minced fresh ginger - 1/4 cup

Minced garlic cloves - 1 (bs)

(from 6 to 8 medium cloves)

Korean salted shrimp, minced - 2 (ts)

Granulated sugar - 1 1/2 (ts)

Cut the cabbage in half lengthwise,then crosswise into 2-inch pieces,discarding the root end. Place in alarge bowl, sprinkle with the salt,and toss with your hands until thecabbage is coated. Add enoughcold water to just cover, making surethe cabbage is submerged. Coverwith plastic wrap or a baking sheetand let sit at room temperature atleast 12 hours and up to 24 hours.Place a colander in the sink, drainthe cabbage, and rinse with coldwater. Gently squeeze out the excessliquid and transfer to a mediumbowl; set aside. Place the remainingingredients in a large bowl and stirto combine. Add the cabbage andtoss with your hands until evenly

combined and the cabbage isthoroughly coated with the mixture.Pack the mixture tightly into a clean2-quart or 2-liter glass jar with a tighttting lid and seal the jar. Let sit in acool, dark place for 24 hours. Openthe jar to let the gases escape, thenreseal and refrigerate at least 48hours before eating (kimchi is bestafter fermenting about 1 week).Refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Method:


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Date post:	07-Jul-2018
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A sauces tale.pdf

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