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A Snapshot of Bolivia

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http://www.flysaa.com/za/en/ | Find flight tickets to the intriguing landscapes of Bolivia. Known for its snow-capped mountains, balmy rainforests and eclectic European-inspired, architecture and food, it should be a must-visit on your bucket list.
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A snApshot of BoliviA Sixty percent of Bolivia’s population has pure native American ancestry, yet there’s an intriguing fusion between European and Bolivian culture, religion, cuisine and architecture, due to the country’s Spanish colonial rule. Toddlers are tightly wrapped in bright textiles secured to their mothers’ backs, like salteñas (meat-filled pastry), afternoon siestas are almost mandatory and most restaurants serve a menu del dia (buffet-like menu of the day). But Bolivia’s best known for its breathtaking landscapes, from the snow-capped Andes and clammy Amazon rainforest to deserts, expansive salt flats and lakes. Words and photographs: iga Motylska
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Page 1: A Snapshot of Bolivia

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A snApshot of BoliviASixty percent of Bolivia’s population has pure native American ancestry, yet there’s an intriguing fusion between European and Bolivian culture, religion, cuisine and architecture, due to the country’s Spanish colonial rule. Toddlers are tightly wrapped in bright textiles secured to their mothers’ backs, like salteñas (meat-filled pastry), afternoon siestas are almost mandatory and most restaurants serve a menu del dia (buffet-like menu of the day). But Bolivia’s best known for its breathtaking landscapes, from the snow-capped Andes and clammy Amazon rainforest to deserts, expansive salt flats and lakes.

Words and photographs: iga Motylska

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SALT OF THE EARTHThe world’s largest salt flat, Salar de Uyuni, can be visited on a 4x4 expedition that also explores the surrounding region. During the rainy

season, the salt flat mirrors the sky. During the dry season, it makes for interesting perspective photographs due to its flatness. Don’t even consider going for less than three days. In that time you’ll visit a train cemetery, salt harvesters, a salt factory and numerous colourful lagoons, the most famous of which is the Laguna Colorada. Thousands of flamingos feed in these high-altitude salt lakes. A sunrise dip in the geothermal hot springs in the desert is hard to rival. The many volcano peaks, Sol de Mañana geysers, Fish Island (actually a cacti island) and the much-photographed stone tree in the burnt orange Siloli Desert come very close, though. If you’d like to travel in style, consider flying to Uyuni (with Amaszonas) and Abercrombie & Kent for tailor-made packages in Airstream caravans. USEFUL CONTACT AbErCrOmbiE & KENT: [email protected] www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

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64 Sawubona August 2014

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August 2014 Sawubona 00

RAINFOREST OF WONDERThe three-hour boat ride from Rurrenabaque through the upper Amazon basin to Serere Sanctuary in Madidi National Park is part of the adventure – this after you’ve flown in with Amaszonas from La Paz. It’s the most biologically diverse region in the world and a protected area. Macaws, jaguars, tapirs, caimans, anacondas and many other animals can be spotted during a walk, from your cabin or from a canoe. The private sanctuary is run by Madidi Travel, which was founded by Rosa Maria Ruiz, who helped establish the national park in the mid-1990s. Volunteer to help its conservation efforts, should you wish to stay longer.USEFUL CONTACT MAdidi TrAvEL: Calle Comercio (between Santa Cruz and Vaca Díez), Beni +591 (3) 892-2153 www.madidi-travel.com

LOFTY LA PAZLa Paz is everything you’d expect from a South American capital city: busy, cluttered and colourful, yet it welcomes you with a toothy smile. Drink coca tea or chew the leaves to adjust to the altitude – it’s the world’s highest de facto capital city, at over 3 600m. Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), named because of its resemblance to the moon, peeks from behind the high-rises of the central business district.

There’s much to do: join a free, daily walking tour and learn about San Pedro prison, where inmates have jobs or businesses, pay for their accommodation and live with their families inside the compound. Read more about it in Marching Powder by Rusty Young (Pan Macmillan). Bring your camera, haggling skills and an open mind when you visit the Witches’ Market. And taste Bolivian cuisine at the Colonial Pot. If you’re adventurous enough, try llama meat.USEFUL CONTACTS AMASzONAS:

www.amaszonas.com WALkiNg TOUrS: www.redcapwalkingtours.com ThE COLONiAL POT: Calle Linares 906 +591 (2) 737 33234.

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66 Sawubona August 2014

“AT THE COPA, COPACABANA...” This Copacabana is the lakeside town in western Bolivia that gave its name to that famous beach in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Perched on a hilltop, the views from Hotel Rosario paint a panoramic picture of the quaint village and Titicaca – the world’s highest navigable lake at 3 812m. The hotel and all travel agencies offer day trips to each of the most popular islands: Isla de Sol (Sun Island), Isla de la Luna (Moon Island) and the floating reed islands. You can also take a private boat, small ferry or hydrofoil from the port and create your own itinerary. Unwind on the northern beach of Sun Island as you admire the snow-capped mountains across the vast expanse of water, eat freshwater trout for lunch, walk from one end of the island to the other or embark on the moderate Las Ruinas trek, past huts, along a well-trodden path to the Incan ruins and a secluded beach where sheep come to graze. USEFUL CONTACTS HOTEL ROSARiO: Av Costanera esq Calle Rigoberto Paredes

+591 (2) 862 2141 www.gruporosario.com

THE WHITE CITYI’d been warned about “Sucre Syndrome” long before I arrived, but I, too, fell victim to its allure.

After all, the de jure capital city is a Unesco World Heritage Site – buildings are whitewashed with red roof tiles, as per Spanish colonial architecture. The Recoleta Monastery is the city’s most romantic mirador (look-out point) and Parque Simon Bolivar has a replica of the Eiffel Tower, designed by Gustave Eiffel himself. Night-time brings with it salsa socials and language exchanges (enquire at your hotel).

Sucre’s also the springboard for hikes across the Cordillera de Los Frailes mountain range and to the seven waterfalls. Opt for a three-day hike with Condor Trekkers. What an experience: from rock paintings dating back 2 000 years to dinosaur footprints and hiking through the Maragua Crater. I crossed rivers and wooden bridges, walked through wheat fields and admired waterfalls and valleys. Due to the remoteness of this untouched region, accommodation is basic. Ask how trips can be customised to your comfort and fitness level.USEFUL CONTACTS CONdOR TREkkERS: Calle Calvo 102 +591 728 91740

www.condortrekkers.org

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