1
A STUDY ON PERFORMANCE OF TEXTILE EXPORTS OF INDIA DURING AND AFTER MULTI FIBRE
AGREEMENT
Dr. C.PANDIARAJAN,
Hod And Assistant Professor, Department Of Commerce, Government Arts College,
Mettupalayam, Tamilnadu, India
1.1. Introduction
Naturally, every country has to depend on
other nation, which has adequate resources and the
technology required for producing certain goods.
Whatever is the type and number of goods exported
or imported by countries, people cannot live
without the basic requirement of life – food, shelter,
and Clothing. India has the competitive advantage
in the production of textiles – both cotton and
synthetics fibres due to the availability of raw
cotton, cheap labour and the economies of scale and
it has specialized in the production of textile goods.
The preferences of those essential items may also
be changed in global market due to a number of
varieties or brands, which are part of human nature,
tastes and fashion. The removal of quota system by
Agreement on textile and clothing of WTO put a
new path for textile export because of India`s
production of any goods under the textile category.
The textile industry in India after agriculture is the
only industry that had generated hugeemployment
for both skilled and unskilled labour. Even today,
the textile industry continues to be the
second-largest employment-generating sector in
India. It offers direct employment to over 35
million in the country. Many textile hubs exist in
different states of India, for example, Kutch and
Surat in Gujarat, Banaras in Uttar Pradesh,
Aurangabad, Mumbai in Maharashtra, Maheshwar
in Madhya Pradesh, Bengaluru in Karnataka, Malta
in West Bengal, Bhagalpur in Bihar, Ludhiana in
Punjab, New Delhi, Tirupur and Karur. In India, a
large chunk of the population is engaged in textile
manufacturing process while the majority of them
belong to MSME (Micro, Small and Medium Scale
Industries) category. Only a few companies are
owned by Joint Stock companies, and it becomes
difficult to achieve economies of scale and fix the
competitive price against the Peoples Republic of
China, which manufactures products on a mass
scale at low cost with high quality and dominates
the world market. It is always the challenge for
India. Now Indian Government has taken many
initiates to attract Foreign Direct Investment to
International Journal of Pure and Applied MathematicsVolume 119 No. 18 2018, 3117-3131ISSN: 1314-3395 (on-line version)url: http://www.acadpubl.eu/hub/Special Issue http://www.acadpubl.eu/hub/
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India for the industrial and infrastructural
development. There are many labour issues and low
labour; pollution with poor infrastructure, less
financial support and the companies are supported
by the huge funds spent by the government on the
development of industries. There are doubtful
questions whether the spending by the government
produce the expected results or not. This study
analysis the growth and trend of textile and garment
export from India.
1.2 TEXTILE SECTOR IN INDIA
The textile industry has two broad
categories. First, the un-organized segment which
consists of handloom, handicrafts, and sericulture
that are functioning on a small scale and with
traditional production methods. The second is the
organized segment including spinning, apparel and
garments sector, which apply modern machinery and
techniques for reaping the economies of scale. The
products of textile Industryare classified as
1) Natural fibres
1) Cotton- Yarn, fabric, Garments
2) Jute – garments and other products.
3) Silk – Dresses
4) Wool and Woolen –Carpets and
sweaters
2) Man-madefibres
1) Polyester – Garments
2) Viscose– Garments
3) Nylon-– Garments
4) Acrylic– Garments
1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY
The significance of this study is that it
covers a broader area in the textile sector before and
after MFA while new initiatives are also taking
place. Primarily this study evaluates the growth of
textile export in the post-MFA era. The empirical
study entails some interesting insights, which could
be of greater interest to the employers, regulators,
and policy makers of India. Secondly, this study
provides useful insight to assess whether
or not, the changes in the efficiency of textile
exports have been in the right direction. Finally, this
study will be useful to textile industry, policy
makers, governments,persons involved in the sector
regardingthe future course of actions, which
happens as it does,and hence the researcher has
taken up this study for reference.
1.4 OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY
1) To examine the trend in the export of
textiles and garment sector during this study
period,
2) To compare the export performance of
garments between Pre and Post MFA
regime.
1.5 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
The study is empirical. The purpose of this
study is to analyse the present position of India`s
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textile and garment sector, particularly during the
period after completion of
10 years of ATC implementation by WTO.
Accordingly, an attempt is madeby the researcher to
study the sector conveniently during pre and post
MFA period.
1.6. SOURCES OF DATA
The study is based on the use of data
collected from secondary sources.
The secondary data are collected from the websites
of Ministry of Commerce and Industries, Ministry
of textiles, annual reports of promotional councils
and Industry specific magazines such as Apparel
online, Apparel views, Apparel India and Apparel
Talk and published PhD research works, Newsletter
of SIMA, TEA and so on
1.7 PERIOD OF STUDY
The period of this study covers from 1995-96
to 2015-2016.
1.8 STATISTICAL TOOLS USED
The empirical analyses for the research
study have been made on the export performance of
various major products from India using the
following statistical tools
Annual Growth Rate
Time serious analysis -Trend Analysis
Simple percentage method
Paired Test
1.9 HYPOTHESES OF THE STUDY
The mean export of textile goods has shown
an increase during the pre-multi-fibre
agreement and post multifiber agreement.
1.10 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY
The study mainly focuses on industry-
specific determinants of textile and apparel exports
and does not cover several variables that may
influence the export patterns
of India, such as exchange rates and transportation
and communications and infrastructure as well as
internal government policies that which may
influence the size, structure, and costs of firms and
production facilities.
This study is carried out purely based on
secondary data, which has its inherent limitation
2.REVIEW OF LITERATURE
Chrlstensen(1964)1 in their study,
“International trade and economic growth”, found
out and discussed that there is a direct relationship
between development and trade and that maintained
the economic growth wouldtypically lead to boost
in the real.
These revenues and trade associations, as exposed
by a cross-sectional analysis of the 1959-60 trade
and revenues data for 9 main trading areas,
1 Chrlstensen, Raymond P., and Mackie, Arthur B.,
"Foreign Economic Development and Agricultural
Trade," Foreign Agricultural Trade of the United States,
September 1963.
International Journal of Pure and Applied Mathematics Special Issue
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recommend that world trade will enlarge to some
extent quicker than world revenue with constant
economic development and that imports from the
United States, total and agricultural, may grow up
faster than world income.
Ramaswamy(2000)2, found out that India‟s
comparative advantage in textile industry
competitive advantage only to meet small orders of
export and suggested that to move up the value
chain RMG, and create a product line to include all
the necessary and standard garments and synthetic
fibre garments. By reconstructing production base, the
industry would enhance quality, establish niche
markets abroad, and move up the more value
additions and value chain so this requireshuge
investment and access to imported inputs.
Balaji (2001)3in an article on “knitwear in
Tirupur" quoted that 2500 units are running in
Tirupur that produced garment products from
knitwear export waste fabric pieces. More than five
hundred companies were operating in this
categories to supply small merchants in Tirupur
Balasubramanyam and Yingqi (2005)4
2 Ramaswamy K.V.Garygereffi, (2000), “India‟s apparel
exports: the challenge of global markets”,
The developing economies, xxxviii-2 (June 2000): 186–
210.
3 Balaji, “Knitwear in Tirpur”, The Hindu, August 11,
2001.
4 Balasubramanyam, V.N. &Yingqi Wei(2005), "Textiles
and clothing exports from India and china: a comparative
analysis," Journal of Chinese Economic and Business
Studies, Taylor & Francis Journals, vol. 3(1), pages 23-
37.
compared the export performance of the textiles and
clothing industries in India and China using the
revealed comparative advantage and the Kreinin-
Finger similarity indices. The results indicated that
China had significant shares in world exports of T
& C, while India has a comparative advantage in
women's clothing of various sorts and men's shirts.
After removal of MFA, China is likely to grow at
the cost of India in most items of exports of
clothing, even in categories where India has a
higher market share than China. The researcher
suggested that there must be a variety of products
are to be produced to meet the completion of China
since the most significant market gap in the USA
and other EU Markets.
Sakthivel(2014)5, in press publication of
apparel views, he mentioned that
Knit wire Technology mission would be a driving
force for the growth of the garment industry in the
years to come. All most 90 percent of nations
switched to manmade fibre yarn.
3. Theoretical framework
The textile and clothing export was restricted before
the implementation of ATC by WTO. The period of
restricted export under textile and clothing industry
was known as Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) period.
This agreement was made by developed nations such
as USA, Canada and European countries against the
5 Sakthivel, A.(2014), “ Knit wear industry to see their
dream into reality”, apparel view magazine, VolXIII,Issue
5, May 2014,pp18.
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supply of textile and clothing products from
developing nations including India.WTO initiated to
remove the quantitative restrictions of textile and
clothing export of developing nations so it
implemented the ATC.
Schedule of Quota Integration under ATC
Quota
removal
period
Phase
Year
Accumulate
d Share of
Clothing and
Textiles
Trade
without
Quotas
Percentage
of Textile
items are to
be brought
under
removal of
Quantitative
Restriction
I 1 Jan 1995 to
31 Dec 1997
16 per cent 6.96 per
cent per
year
II 1 Jan 1998 to
31 Dec 2001
17 per cent 8.7 per
cent per
year
III 1 Jan 2002 to
31 Dec 2004
18 per cent 11.05 per
cent per
year
IV 1 Jan 2005.
Full integration
into GATT
(and final
elimination of
quotas).
Agreement on
Textiles and
49 per cent No quotas
left
Clothing
terminates.
4. ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSIONS
GROWTH RATE OF TEXTILE
EXPORTS FROM INDIA AND
PERCENTAGE OF TEXTILE EXPORT
IN OVERALL EXPORT OF INDIA AND
PRODUCT WISE DETAILS
The textiles industry is one of the major
commodities contributing to the national economic
development regarding Forex earnings and National
GDP. The textiles sector is the second largest
employment provider in the nation after agriculture.
Therefore, the development and growth of this
industry have a direct relationship with the
improvement of India's economy. Experts found out
that Textiles exports from India would touch
US$ 185 billion by the year 2024-25.
In this Section, analyses of the performance
of various textile products with the use of statistical
tools.
Table 4.1. Growth Rate of Textile exports from
India and Percentage of Textile
export in overall export of India
Year
Textile
Export
(Rs.
Billions
Growth
Rate
Pre
MF
A
and
Percentag
e
in
Overall
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) Post
MF
A
export
1995-
1996 285.2 10%
120
%
26.82%
1996-
1997 339.2 18.93% 28.55%
1997-
1998 364.12 7.35% 27.99%
1998-
1999 401.71 10.32% 28.74%
1999-
2000 455.36 13.36% 28.62%
2000-
2001 347.99
(-
)23.58% 17.28%
2001-
2002 513.37 47.52% 24.56%
2002-
2003 600.71 17.01% 23.54%
2003-
2004 620.17 3.24% 21.14%
2004-
2005 630.24 1.62% 16.79%
Average 455 10.6% 24%
2005-
2006 776.57 23.22%
210
% 17.01%
2006-
2007 867.02 11.65% 15.16%
2007-
2008 891.2 2.79% 13.59%
2008-
2009 963.12 8.07% 11.46%
2009-
2010
1060.4
5 10.11% 12.54%
2010-
2011
1262.8
1 19.08% 11.05%
2011-
2012
1634.3
1 29.42% 11.15%
2012-
2013
1984.8
2 21.45% 12.14%
2013-
2014
2580.4
1 30.01% 13.55%
2014-
2015
2302.5
9 -10.77% 12.14%
2015-
2016
2406.1
2 4.50% 14.02%
Average 1520 14.9%
14.3%
Source: Ministry of textiles statistics, India
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Table 4.2: Trend Projection for Textile Export
Year
2018-
2019
2019-
2020
2020-
2021
2021-
2022
2022-
2023
Trend
Projec
tion
(Rs.
Billio
ns)
3089.
896
20937
.73
3482.
156
3678.
286
3874.
416
Table4.1 and 4.2 reveals that the textile
export has increased regarding export value. The
Value of Textile export from India was registered at
Rs. 285.2 billion in 1995-96. At the end of the
removal of the quota system, the export value of
textiles from India had reached Rs 630.25 billion in
2004-2005. The Growth Rate after Quota Removal
period was registered at 120 immediately after Quota
system; the value of textile export from India has
reached Rs.776 billion. The differences between two
years 2004-05 and 2005-06 were Rs.140 billion. The
Growth of Textile was registered at 120 Percentage in
Pre MFA and 210 Percentage in Post MFA Period.
The Differences in the Growth between Pre and Post
MFA were calculated at 89-percentage level. The
increase in the average growth of textile goods is
found to be 12per cent. There was 743 per cent of
growth between 1995-1996 and 2015-2016. The fall
in growth as compared with previous years in 2014-
2015 and 2000-2001 were temporary due to the
economic slowdown in the world market.
It is found out that the percentage of textile
export in overall export was 24.4% during quota
removal period under pre MFA, but the percentage
of textiles in overall export was 13% during Post
MFA Period.
Figure 4.1 shows the value of textiles export
from India. Figure4.2 shows the growth percentage
has been increased during the study period.
Figure4.3 shows the trend projection line which
projected to achieve the value for forthcoming
years.
Analysis of Trend in Export of Textiles from
India
The technical method, which is adapted to
investigate the trend of export of textiles from
India, is the Time series analysis. The data has been
analysed for the period from 2005-2006 to 2015-
2016 for calculating the real projection based on
values exported after MFA. To find the projected
values, co-efficient of correlation has been found
out between years. The Trend projection was
estimated to be Positive Trend Line. The export of
textile from India is projected to achieve Rupees
3089.96 billion in
2018-2019 and estimated at Rs.3874.416 billion in
2022-2023.
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Figure4.1: Export of Textile Products Exported
from India withTrend Line
(Value
s in billion
Rs.)
Figure4.2: Growth of Export of Textile Products
Exported from India
Figure4.3: Trend Projection for Export of
Textile Goods from India
Table 4.3: Growth Rate of Readymade
Garment exports from India and
Percentage of Jute export in overall
export of India
Year
Garm
ents
Expo
rt
from
India
(Rs.
Billio
n)
Perce
ntage
chang
e in
RMG
Expor
t
Pre
MFA
and
Perce
ntage
of
Overa
ll
Expor
t from
India
Perce
ntage
of
Textil
e
Expor
t from
India
1995-
1996
122.9
5
8.37%
210
%
10.98
%
40.93
%
1996-
1997
133.2
4
8.12% 10.72
%
37.56
%
1997-
1998
144.0
6
27.47
%
10.55
%
37.68
%
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1998-
1999
183.6
4
12.44
%
12.71
%
44.20
%
1999-
2000
206.4
9
23.21
%
12.16
%
42.48
%
2000-
2001
254.4
1
-6.15% 11.54
%
42.78
%
2001-
2002
238.7
8
15.32
%
10.54
%
42.91
%
2002-
2003
275.3
7
3.99% 10.125 42.97
%
2003-
2004
286.3
4
2.96% 9.00% 42.55
%
2004-
2005
294.8
1
95.74
%
7.21% 42.95
%
Avera
ge
199.7
8
9.60% 10.55
%
44.10
%
2005-
2006
381.5
4
29.42
%
190
%
7.75% 44.53
%
2006-
2007
402.3
7
5.46% 6.56% 43.26
%
2007-
2008
390.0
1
-3.07% 5.56% 40.95
%
2008-
2009
502.9
4
28.95
%
5.60% 48.92
%
2009-
2010
507.9
1
0.99% 5.63% 44.89
%
2010- 528.6 4.08% 4.39% 39.74
2011 1 %
2011-
2012
656.1
2
24.12
%
4.27% 38.32
%
2012-
2013
703.2
8
7.19% 4.28% 35.23
%
2013-
2014
907.1
7
28.99
%
4.76% 35.18
%
2014-
2015
1029.
43
13.48
%
5.43% 44.73
%
2015-
2016
1110.
19
7.84% 6.48% 46.21
%
Avera
ge
647.0
5
14% 802.6
4%
5.52% 46.10
%
Source: Ministry of Textiles, India
Table 4.4: Trend Projection of RMG Export
from India
Year 2018-
2019
2019-
2020
2020-
2021
2021-
2022
2022-
2023
Trend
Projec
tion
(Rs.
Billio
n)
1336.
59
1456.
7
1577.
4
1698.
2
1818.
9
From Table 4.3 and 4.4, it has been found
out that the RMG exports from India have increased
regarding export value. The Value of RMG exports
from India was registered at Rs.122.95 Billion in
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1995-96. At the end of the removal of the quota
system, the export value of textiles from India had
reached Rs 294.81Billion in 2004-2005
Immediately after Quota system; the value of textile
export from India has reached Rs.381 Billion. The
differences between two years 2004-05 and 2005-
06 were
Rs.90 Billion. The Growth of Textile was
Registered at 190Percentage in Pre MFA and 802
Percentage in Post MFA Period. The Differences in
the Growth between Pre and Post MFA were
calculated at 610 percentage level. The increase in the
average growth of textile goods is found to be 14
percentage. There were nearly 430 percentage of
growth between 1995-1996 and 2015-2016.
It is found out that the percentage of RMG
exports in overall export was 10% during quota
removal period under pre MFA, but the percentage
of textiles in overall export was 5 % during Post
MFA Period. The percentage of RMG exports in
textile export was 44% during quota removal period
under pre MFA, but the percentage of textiles in
overall export was 46% during Post MFA Period.
Figure 4.4 shows the value of RMG from
India. Figure 4.5 shows the growth percentage has
been increased during the study period. Figure 4.6
shows the trend projection line from RMG Export
from India.
Analysis of Trend in Export of Jute from India
Trend Projection Value
The technical method, which is adapted to
investigate the trend of export of all commodities, is
the Time serious analysis. The data has been
analysed for the period from 2005-2006 to 2015-
2016 for the reason of calculating the real
projection based on values exported after MFA. The
Trend projection values estimated for RMG
Products. The export of RMG export from India has
projected Rs.1336 Billion in 2018-2019 and
Rs.1818 Billion in 2021-2022.
Figure 4.4:Value of RMG export from India
Figure 4.5: Growth of RMG export from India
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Figure4.6: Trend Projection of RMG Products
of India
4.5 : Contribution of various textile products
Under 5 Phases
Year/Pr
oducts
1995-
1996
2000-
2011
2005-
2006
2010-
2011
2015-
2016
Cotton 30.93
% 30% 24%
31.30
%
29.19
%
Manmad
e fibre
9.05
% 9.5%
10.26
%
16.95
%
12.1
%
silk 2.78
%
2.46
%
3.95
%
2.28
%
0.33
%
Wool 1.70
%
4.07
%
2.60
%
1.59
%
0.35
%
RMG 40.93
%
42.41
% 44%
39.74
%
45.62
%
Jute 2.18
%
1.26
% 2%
1.66
%
0.10
%
Handicr 11.78 11.07 7.62 4.66 11.9
aft % % % % %
From Table 4.5, it has been found out that
the position of each category goods in textiles
during the five phases. The inference is that Cotton
Products and Readymade garments have a
significant contribution to this industry. The export
of cotton-related goods contributed 31% in 1995-
1996, but the percentage of cotton has reduced in it
is position during 2015-2016. There was a
slowdown in 2005-2006 during the conversion
period of MFA. The contribution of
manmadefibreis increased in its contribution from
1995-1996 to 2015-2016 nearly 3%. The silk export
only shows poor performance nowadays. The
Readymade Garment export has been contributing
45.62% in textile goods export from India.
4.6 Comparison between Export of
Textiles from India before and after MFA
H0 = There is no significant difference between the
percentage changes in Export of Textiles
products from India before and after the
intervention of MultiFibre Agreement.
Ha = There is a significant difference between the
percentage changes in Export of Textiles
products from India before and after the
intervention of Multi Fibre Agreement.
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T-Test
Paired Samples Statistics
Mean N
Std.
Deviation
Std. Error
Mean
Pai
r 1
Pretextile 455.8070
1
0
127.9818
1 40.47140
Posttextil
e
1432.330
0
1
0
654.1397
5
206.8571
5
Paired Samples Correlations
N Correlation Sig.
Pair
1
Pre MFA Textile
export &
Post MFA textile
export
10 .934 .000
Paired Samples Test
Paired Differences
Mean
Std.
Deviati
on
Std.
Error
Mean
95%
Confidence
Interval of
the
Difference
Lower
Pa
ir
1
PreMF
A -
PostM
FA
976.5
23
536.620
41
169.694
27
-
1360.39811
Paired Samples Test
Paired
Differences
t df Sig.
(2-
taile
d) 95%
Confidence
Interval of
the
Difference
Upper
Pair
1
Pretextile -
Posttextile -592.64789
5.75
5 9 .000
t2-1
Test2=
t2-1 + N1 + N2
= 19.20%
It is inferred from the analysis that there is a
significant difference between the percentage
changes in the export of textile goods from India
before and after the intervention of Multi-fibre
agreement. It means that the implementation of
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removal of quota under MFA has influenced the
level of changes in the export of textile goods.
The mean score ( X =1432) indicates that post-
Multi fibre agreement has increased the level of
textile export from India.
Statistical Inferences
„Paired-test applied, and it was found that there
is a significant difference between the percentage
changes in the export of all commodities from India
before and after
Multi-Fiber Agreement (t=19.20, 0.000<o.oo1, sig.
at 1%). Hence the null hypothesis was rejected.
5. FINDINGS: There is a significant growth
and development of textile and clothing export post
multi fibre agreement period. Though the
contribution of textiles and garment exports in
overall exports of India is lesser percentage in post
MFA, the value and volume export has been
increasing with compare with pre MFA Period. The
Readymade garments are the major contributor in
textile exports with around 46%. Majority of
garments are exported as a job work and in other
words the garments only sold from India to major
global brands as a supplier.
6. SUGGESTIONS FOR EXPORTERS
The focus of exporters should be mainly on
RMG Exports in India.
Manufacturers of Garments should create
their Indian brand instead of supply the
products of the international branded
companies. Itexplores the huge profit to the
company.
New innovative products should be developed
instead of using the traditional goods.
Large-scale industries can try to implement
the automation in all production activities
and to some extent robotics in
manufacturing canbe used for the high-
quality goods.
Improvement with supply chain and global
sourcing for factors of production should be
achieved
Companies are required to spend funds for
research and development to produce goods
and engage in quality manufacturing.
It is important to identify the strength of
competitive nations for particular products
and same to be used India for competency
Companies have to adopt the Mechanism to
control cost reduction,especially in the
production chain.
Suggestion for Policy Makers/Governments
The government should introduce attractive
and innovative schemes for promoting
Indians brands.
The government should ensure
uninterrupted supply of adequate raw
materials by implementing instant relaxation
in imports from other countries while the
International Journal of Pure and Applied Mathematics Special Issue
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export order is predominant one for the firm
and the country.
The government should generate a platform
to connect the industry and institutional
interaction to increase the talents of young
Indians
The government should not give any
exemption for any export without ECGC to
safeguard the exporters from payment
issues.
7. CONCLUSION
India has to rethink in the way of
Bangladesh and China.India needs to have a
policy change regarding infrastructure
development and the implementation of the
same with the normal outlook of fast
development and sincerity with a broader
vision. India should emulate Bangladesh so
far as the unity of members is concerned in
their association and should have a sense of
belonging.The focus of Indian youth should
be diverted from software industry to
industrial development with labour intensive
technology to cater to the employment
requirement of Indian textile and garment
firms. These approaches are sure to bring
miraculous achievements and turn around in
India‟s textile industry.
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